Van Gelder Indian Jewellery - Vangelderjewellery.com
Van Gelder Indian Jewellery - Vangelderjewellery.com
Van Gelder Indian Jewellery - Vangelderjewellery.com
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The Impulse to adorn,<br />
Beauty, Power & Grace<br />
The jewellery illustrated in this brochure is offered for sale by<br />
<strong>Van</strong> <strong>Gelder</strong> <strong>Indian</strong> <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
It is with great pleasure that we present our second cataloque, which we hope you will enjoy.<br />
The purpose of Beauty, Power & Grace is to introduce you into the world of traditional <strong>Indian</strong><br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and the excitement of wearing unique pieces of this great culture.<br />
During our travels we were offered fantastic jewellery and now we are pleased to share these<br />
Beauty, Power & Grace with you.<br />
Bernadette van <strong>Gelder</strong><br />
Fleur Fleur Damman – van <strong>Gelder</strong> <strong>Gelder</strong><br />
Noelle Viguurs – van <strong>Gelder</strong><br />
June 2011<br />
For For further inqueries:<br />
T +31 (0)6 53 88 35 60<br />
E info@vangelderjewellery.<strong>com</strong><br />
I www.vangelderjewellery.<strong>com</strong><br />
1
Ganesha statue in Swami technique,<br />
The elephant – headed God, the<br />
Remover of Obstacles, God of Wisdom.<br />
He wears a crown set with rose cut<br />
diamonds. Swami jewellery is an Anglo-<br />
<strong>Indian</strong> style of jewellery that flourished<br />
during the peak period of the British<br />
Raj in India.<br />
The jewellery was created mainly by<br />
P.Orr and Sons in Madras, Tamil Nadu<br />
ca. 1849 till the early twentieth century.<br />
The gold ornaments were available in<br />
22 karat gold at P.ORR and Sons.<br />
The jewellery was stamped ORR 22<br />
which was remarkable because no<br />
system of hallmarking was practiced in<br />
India.<br />
The local term Swami, meaning “god or<br />
goddess” referred to the ornamentation<br />
of these pieces with one or more<br />
images of deities or Swamies of the<br />
hindu pantheon.<br />
Swami style jewellery was created in<br />
the repousse technique in which a<br />
malleable metal (gold/silver/tin etc) is<br />
ornamented or shaped by hammering<br />
from the reverse side<br />
India, Tamil Nadu, late 19 th century
1 A gold Ganesha statue in Swami technique<br />
India, Tamil Nadu, late 19 th century<br />
3
2 A pair of gold bangles, Gajredar Bangri,<br />
consisiting of eight half-cylindrical, hinged<br />
sections, set with rubies, emeralds and<br />
diamonds.<br />
Outer diameter ca 8 cm;<br />
inner diameter ca 6cm<br />
India, Rajasthan, 20 th century<br />
4
3 A gold necklace consisting of 4 open<br />
worked amulet boxes, each set with rubies,<br />
diamonds and emeralds and suspended<br />
gold beads<br />
India, Gujarat<br />
19 th century<br />
5
4 A necklace, a Kanti (necklace) consisting of square<br />
beads and turqoise finials. The kantha-tudar; necklace<br />
of several gold strings held with elaborate clasps<br />
India, Gujarath, late 19 th century<br />
6
5 A gold necklace decorated with 4 rosettes,<br />
each set with turquoise and spinel, the<br />
centerpiece is set with turquoise and diamonds<br />
India, Rajasthan, Bikaner 19 th century<br />
6 Flower-shaped gold<br />
earrings, jarau karanphul<br />
jhumka, set with diamonds<br />
and turqoises, are<br />
embellished with miniature<br />
versions suspended from the<br />
roundel, which when worn,<br />
dangle at the cheek.<br />
Rajasthan, Shekawati,<br />
19 th century<br />
7
7 A 20k gold ‘Nath’, a traditional<br />
nosering, set with ruby, turquoise,<br />
and pearls<br />
Hindu, India, Uttar Pradesh,<br />
Benares/Lucknow, 19 th century<br />
A nose in India it’s an age old tradition<br />
that’s heads back centuries and has<br />
significance even today. In some parts<br />
of India the nose ring is never removed<br />
once a woman is married, and thus a<br />
nose ring is often considered to be a<br />
sign of marriage. Nose rings, although<br />
closely associated with <strong>Indian</strong> culture,<br />
actually originated in the Middle East.<br />
Nose rings first appeared in India<br />
during the Moghul period around the<br />
16 th century. In fact, excavations in India<br />
have not turned up any evidence of nose<br />
rings in India prior to the 16 th century.<br />
The nose rings that first appeared in<br />
India were not actual rings, but were<br />
small, flat, ornamental patterns - often<br />
flowers - that were held in place by a<br />
screw on the inside of the nostril.<br />
The type of nose ring is largely<br />
dependent on the area of the nose<br />
where the nose ring will be worn. For<br />
instance, studs, also known as phul,<br />
are <strong>com</strong>mon when worn in the nostril.<br />
Circular barbells, also known as nath,<br />
are worn in the septum (the cartilage<br />
between the nostrils), and straight<br />
barbells adorn the area on the bridge of<br />
the nose between the eyes. It’s possible<br />
for septum rings to be so large that<br />
they make it difficult to eat.<br />
Some nose rings are so heavily<br />
ornamented by jewels, pearls and so<br />
on, that chains, which are attached to<br />
the hair or over the earlobe are used<br />
to help support the weight of the nose<br />
ring.
8 A pair of large earpendants<br />
consisting of a crescent moon and a<br />
suspended fish, set with diamonds and<br />
suspended pearls with green glass beads<br />
India, Rajasthan, ca 1940<br />
10
9 A gold necklace, Guttapusal, set with<br />
ruby, emerald and diamond. The whole<br />
is decorated with natural pearls of an<br />
extraordinary measurements.<br />
11<br />
Guttapusal (necklace of bunches of<br />
pearls)<br />
Andhra Pradesh, early 20 th century<br />
Bunches of small pearls (gutta) pierced<br />
as beads (pusal). This ornament form<br />
and name originated in areas close to<br />
the ancient pearl fisheries along the<br />
Coromandel coast<br />
Lit ref Uppi Untracht p335 no 753<br />
Lit ref Dance of the Peacock p52 no 52
These bangles are an example of one<br />
of many typical wedding ornaments.<br />
No single ornament, however, serves<br />
this purpose throughout the <strong>Indian</strong><br />
subcontinent, as, for instance,<br />
the wedding ring does in the West.<br />
If an imaginary line is drawn between<br />
northern and south India, it can be<br />
said that to the north of this division<br />
marriage symbol ornaments are worn<br />
on the head, nose, wrist and toes; and<br />
to the south they are worn suspended<br />
from the neck. All the matrimonial<br />
ornaments and jewellery have the basic<br />
function of protecting against evil<br />
spirits<br />
The forms of jewellery and ornaments<br />
also indicate the wearer’s geographical<br />
place of origin, religion and also caste.<br />
In some areas, the primary marriage<br />
symbol ornament must be of gold, a<br />
metal considered to be ritually pure and<br />
sacred to the gods.
10 A set of 6 20 krt gold open worked<br />
bracelets bangles. The edge of the<br />
pair larger bangles is set with white<br />
sapphires, or alternately with a work of<br />
closely knit Basra pearls, moti jali. The<br />
four smaller bangles are decorated with<br />
open worked poppy flowers, set with<br />
small Basra pearls and an emerald bead<br />
in the centre. The brim is set with white<br />
saphires, emeralds and Basra pearls.<br />
India, Rajasthan, Bikaner, 19 th century<br />
15
16<br />
A necklace consisting of several strings<br />
with Basra pearls and a 20k gold clasp.<br />
The clasp is decorated with a nandi and<br />
left and right with bird pattern<br />
Throughout the history of <strong>Indian</strong><br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong>, no gem has been prolifically<br />
used as the pearl. For many centuries<br />
the best quality pearls were found in<br />
the Persian Gulf.Until the 16 th century<br />
the pearl trade was dominated by<br />
the Arabs and Persians, but after the<br />
Portugese colonisation, they took over<br />
the trade. Pearls formed an important<br />
asset of their Far East Trade. After the<br />
Arabs regained control over the area,<br />
they also took over the trade monopoly,<br />
and this was in fact financed by the<br />
<strong>Indian</strong>s. The pearls came to shore at<br />
the harbour city Basra, hence the name<br />
‘Basra Pearls’.<br />
After the pearls were washed, cleaned<br />
and selected on colour, size shape and<br />
lustre, they were send the Persian city<br />
of Hormuz were the trade took place.<br />
From here the pearls were shipped to<br />
Mumbai, where the <strong>Indian</strong> trade took<br />
place. From Mumbai the pearls were<br />
distributed all over the country, and<br />
were even sent overseas to the West.<br />
Unfortunately, through extensive<br />
fishing and pollution, there are no<br />
longer pearls to be found in the Persian<br />
Gulf, the Basra Pearl trade ended in the<br />
late nineteenth century.
11 Nandi the bull which serves as the<br />
mount of Shiva and as the gate keeper<br />
of Shiva and Parvati in Hindu mythology.<br />
Temples venerating Shiva and Parvati<br />
display stone images of a seated Nandi,<br />
generally facing the main shrine. There are<br />
also a number of temples dedicated solely to<br />
Nandi<br />
North India, first quarter of the 20 th century<br />
17
18<br />
12 A pair of earpendants set with<br />
rockcristal and suspended pearls and<br />
blue glass beads<br />
India, Rajasthan, ca 1940<br />
13 A pair of gold earpendants set<br />
with diamonds and suspended pearls<br />
with green glass beads, the reverse<br />
is decorated with multi coloured<br />
enamelwork<br />
India, Rajasthan, ca 1940<br />
14 A pair of gold earpendants set with<br />
diamonds, emeralds and suspended<br />
pearls,<br />
India, Rajasthan, ca 1940
15 A gold necklace set with white<br />
saphires and emerald drops, the<br />
reverse is decorated with multi<br />
colored enemalwork<br />
India, Bikaner, 19 th century<br />
19
16 A 4 line necklace consisting of<br />
natural pearls and a gold clasp in fine<br />
repousé workmanship<br />
North India 20 th century<br />
17 A pair of gold domeshape<br />
earpendants set with diamonds and<br />
suspended pearls<br />
India, Rajasthan, first quarter<br />
20 th century<br />
20
18 A gold necklace consisting of 18<br />
paisley shape pendants and decorated<br />
with a rim of natural pearls<br />
India, Maharastra, second quarter of<br />
20 th century<br />
21
20 A gold necklace consisiting of<br />
birdssegments set with ruby and<br />
emerald and a centre pendant set with<br />
rubies, emeralds and diamonds<br />
India, Rajasthan, 19 th century<br />
19 A pair of gold earpendants set with<br />
rubies an emerald and a rim of pearls<br />
North India, ca 20 th century<br />
22
21 A Balewara, a traditional<br />
gold necklace, decorated with a centre piece<br />
set with diamonds, emeralds and rubies<br />
India, Rajasthan, Bikaner<br />
19 th century<br />
23<br />
22 Braghar ear pendants<br />
Traditional gold earrings with glass and<br />
mother of pearl beads in the centre,<br />
a gold drop with green German glass is<br />
suspended.<br />
India, Himachal Pradesh,<br />
early 20 th century
23 A gold hemispherical head ornament, with a suspended fringe of triangular pendants<br />
in a spreading network. The whole is set in kundan technique with cabochon rubies,<br />
emeralds, table cut diamonds and suspended Basra pearls. This headornament was worn on<br />
the side of the head, the fringe hanging down over the forehead. Ornaments like these are<br />
part of the jewellery traditionally worn by Muslimbrides.<br />
India, Rajasthan, 19 th century<br />
25
24 A gold traditional necklace<br />
India Rajasthan 20 th century<br />
26
26 A pair of gold Bhungi,<br />
earornaments,are worn in the helix by<br />
men and boys of all ages. The decoration<br />
of the plate is <strong>com</strong>posed of concentrically<br />
soldered on filigree, granules and platelets<br />
India, Gujarath, ca 1940<br />
Lit ref Bala Krishnan,<br />
Dance of the Peacock, ill 260<br />
Cutsem, Welt der Ohrringe, ill. P.119, 124<br />
Frater, Threads of Identity ill.121,123<br />
Jain-Neubauer, Chandrika ill. P.27<br />
25 A pair of traditional wedding earrings by Rabari<br />
woman. Lit ref earrings Earrings p73<br />
India, Ogania, Gujarath, ca second part of 20th century<br />
27
27 A necklace consisting of 7 gold<br />
arrowshape pendants, decorated with<br />
a floral pattern in traditional Gujarath<br />
workmanship<br />
India, Gujarath, late 19 th century,<br />
106.73 grams<br />
28
28 A pair of traditional gold<br />
ear pendants with suspended gold<br />
leaves<br />
South India, Tamil Nadu<br />
first quarter 20 th century<br />
29 A gold traditional necklace<br />
India Maharastrha 20 th century<br />
29
30<br />
30 A gold bangle<br />
India, Gujarath, 20 th century
31 A plain gold necklace<br />
India, Gujarath, early 20 th century<br />
31<br />
32 A pair of gold earpendants, Pandadi,<br />
are worn in the middle or upper ear by<br />
older girls before marriage. Square gold<br />
Pandadi were specific ear ornaments of<br />
Dhebaria Rabari Nomad Tribes in Kutch<br />
India, Gujarath, first part of 20 th century
33 A plain gold coin necklace a Kasu<br />
Malai (necklace of coins) The coins are<br />
inscripted on either sides. Front is gold<br />
Mahalaskmi Madras. Reverse is 22ct<br />
India, 1910. The use of coins in jewellery<br />
constituted a form of savings and a<br />
display of wealth 136.32 gr<br />
India, Madras, 1910<br />
32
34 22k gold necklace decorated with<br />
enamelled finials and a centre pendant,<br />
depicting Rama and Sita with the<br />
monkey god Hanuma. Ram or Rama<br />
is the seventh appearance of Vishnu.<br />
His consort is Sita. In this shape he<br />
descended to earth to save the world<br />
from the oppression of Ravana, the<br />
ten-headed king of demons. This story<br />
is told in the epic poem the Ramayana.<br />
They are the main characters.<br />
Rajasthan, Bikaner 19 th century
35 A gold enamelled bajuband set with white saphires<br />
The tradition of wearing Bazubands was inherited by the Mughals from<br />
their ancestors, the Timurids. The word bazu band is derived from Bazu,<br />
meaning arm and Band, meaning closers, and is worn on the upper arm. The<br />
most traditional form of the Bazuband was <strong>com</strong>posed of a large stone of<br />
exceedingly high quality, for example an emerald, which, in the days of the<br />
Mughals, came from Colombia via the Portuguese and flanked by two pearls.<br />
They became more ornate through the centuries and were another form of<br />
displaying the finest gems, particularly when a number were worn together.<br />
It was symbolic of aristocracy, masculinity and their role as conquerors, but<br />
the practice of wearing Bazu bands began as an amulet to guard the wearer<br />
from his enemies in battle. They were usually <strong>com</strong>posed of stones which had<br />
been astrologically chosen to ward off certain malefic effects, but as the<br />
years wore on they took on a more decorative role and became an important<br />
accessory to the king. They became more significant during the provincial<br />
rule, when all the Maharajas and Nawabs wore them to indetify their role.<br />
North India, 19 th century<br />
36
36 A pair of 20k gold child bangles with<br />
Makara heads (mythical seacreatur).<br />
Inlaid with diamonds, the eyes inlaid<br />
with rubies, enamelled in the traditional<br />
Champleve technique with a scroll of red<br />
flowers and the green leaves on a white<br />
ground with red and green parrots. The<br />
child bangles in such good condition are<br />
very rare. The bangles were probably<br />
made for Rajput nobles.<br />
India, Rajasthan, Jaipur, 19 th century<br />
37
38<br />
37 A 20 ct gold necklace<br />
consisting of seven pendants<br />
(Latkan) on a finely worked<br />
chain. All pendants are decorated<br />
with multicoloured enamel, and<br />
are fringed with pearls and blue<br />
glass beads. Five pendants have<br />
the form of an arrowhead<br />
India, Rajasthan, Navthdvara,<br />
19 th century
The middle pendant depicts the name<br />
of Shrinathji, an incarnation of the<br />
Hindu god Vishnu, on one side. The<br />
script is in Devanagari characters<br />
Vishnu is one of the three gods in the<br />
great Hindu trinity. The other gods<br />
are Shiva and Brahma. Shiva is the<br />
destroyer, Brahma represents creation<br />
and Vishnu is the preserver. The name<br />
‘Shrinathji’ is reserved in gold against a<br />
red background, the whole symbolising<br />
a flowering Lotus, surrounded by red<br />
flowers and green leaves, and a bird<br />
on either side. To the left and right are<br />
three pendants, each decorated with<br />
birds perching on a flowering<br />
tree.<br />
On the reverse, the Vishnupada, or<br />
feet of Vishnu, are shown, within a<br />
white circle with a green rim on a blue<br />
ground, representing the primordial<br />
waters.<br />
The feet are adorned with symbols<br />
such as the axe, and the fish, objects<br />
that are connected with episodes in the<br />
mythology of Vishnu.<br />
40<br />
This necklace was worn by pilgrims to<br />
the shrine of Shrinathji.<br />
Illustrating Vishnu’s footprints with<br />
objects connected to him is traditional<br />
in Hindu iconography. Pictures of his<br />
footprints are no less revered than<br />
other painted and sculptured images of<br />
Vishnu.<br />
Showing reverence to the feet of a<br />
deity, and elder, a holy man, or someone<br />
of higher status is <strong>com</strong>mon practice<br />
in India. An amulet with the feet of<br />
Vishnu around the neck keeps the god<br />
close to the heart and identifies the<br />
wearer as a Vaishnavite, follower
of Vishnu, and in the particular<br />
example as a Shrinathji pilgrim, a<br />
member of the Vallabhacharya sect. A<br />
song in praise of Vishu’s feet concludes:<br />
“This very sacred Pada (Vishnu’s feet)<br />
has bestowed on the lives of many great<br />
saints a place of sublimity”.<br />
The form of an arrowhead had had<br />
great symbolic meaning since ancient<br />
times. The stone arrowhead spearheads<br />
and axes were among man’s earliest<br />
lethal weapons. The power to end a life<br />
was highly respected by the ancients,<br />
and the instruments themselves were<br />
regarded as magical. Even the mere<br />
form of the arrowhead was believed<br />
to possess the power to destroy the<br />
evil spirits. To obtain this protection, a<br />
pendant in the form of an arrowhead<br />
was worn around the neck. Eventually,<br />
the simple arrowhead evolved into a<br />
more stylised and embellished form,<br />
although the decorations should<br />
reinforce the amulet’s auspicious power.<br />
41<br />
Seven is, as is nine, a very auspicious<br />
number for Hindus. Hindu cosmology<br />
conceives of the universe as containing<br />
seven planets and two personifications<br />
of the moon cycle, all designated as<br />
celestial deities. The seven planets<br />
correspond with seven Hindu gods and<br />
the seven days of the week. The white<br />
light from the sun is a <strong>com</strong>bination of<br />
seven colours of the spectrum. Each<br />
planet sends of one colour.<br />
It is believed that the sunlight, so as<br />
such each of the seven cosmic colours,<br />
have a special effect on every living<br />
creature on earth.
38 A pair of domeshape earpendants set with<br />
rubies and suspended pearls<br />
India, Rajasthan second part of 20 th century<br />
39 A pearl and ruby necklace consisting<br />
of suspended gold heartshape pendants<br />
each set with diamonds and decorated<br />
with safed chalwan enamelwork<br />
North India, 20 th century<br />
42
40 Sarphatti (Hindi) (turban ornament)<br />
A turban ornament consisting of a gold, openwork plaque set with diamonds<br />
and rubies. On either side is a gold, openwork triangular element, likewise<br />
set with diamonds and rubies – all in the kundan technique. The whole is<br />
decorated with suspended spinel drops and at both ends are fine strands of<br />
red glass beads. The reverse is entirely decorated with Safed Chalwan enamel.<br />
India, Rajasthan, Jaipur, ca 1880<br />
43
44<br />
41 A pair of gold traditional Jumkah<br />
ear pendants set with diamonds and<br />
suspended emeralds, pearls and glass<br />
beads. The reverse is decorated with<br />
multi coloured enamel.<br />
North India, 19 th century
42 A pair of gold ear pendants set with<br />
diamonds and natural emeralds from<br />
Colombia.<br />
Approximate weight estimates on the<br />
various items are 2 round emeralds: total<br />
weight approximately 1.2 carats<br />
2 pear shaped emeralds: respectively 11<br />
and 14 carats (rough estimates due shape)<br />
48 rose-cute diamonds:<br />
total weight approximately 3 carat<br />
Lab tested by Netherlands Gemmological<br />
Laboratory Ltd. Leiden, Holland<br />
45
Designs and symbols on traditional <strong>Indian</strong> <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Enamelling<br />
The most reputed af all the centres of<br />
enamelling in India is Jaipur. The enamellers<br />
of Jaipur have reached such perfection in<br />
this craft that they remain unsurpassed<br />
throughout the length and breadth of the<br />
country. Jaipur – and to some extent Alwar<br />
- had the distinction of being the best<br />
known centres for enamelling during the<br />
eighteenth and ninetheenth century, the<br />
craftsmen traditionally being thought to<br />
have <strong>com</strong>e from Lahore. Enamelling was<br />
initated in Jaipur during the reign of Sawai<br />
Man Singh I.<br />
Handcrafted <strong>Indian</strong> enamel jewellery Rita<br />
Devi Sharma M. Varadarajan p25<br />
Kundan<br />
Kundan is probably the oldest form of jewel<br />
crafting in India. Small pieces of pure gold<br />
are hammered into paper-thin sheets and<br />
encased around the gems to hald them in<br />
place. The state of its origin is Rajasthan,<br />
where the main centres for kundan work are<br />
Jaipur and Bikaner<br />
Handcrafted <strong>Indian</strong> enamel jewellery Rita<br />
Devi Sharma M. Varadarajan p30<br />
Arrowhead<br />
The form of an arrowhead has had a great<br />
symbolic meaning since ancient times.<br />
Stone arrowheads spearheads and axes<br />
were among man’s earliest lethal and the<br />
instruments themselves were regarded as<br />
magical. Even the form of the arrowhead<br />
was believed to possess the power to<br />
destroy the evil world. To obtain this<br />
protection a pendant in the form of an<br />
arrowhead was worn around the neck.<br />
Eventually, the simple arrowhead evolved<br />
into a more stylised and embellished form,<br />
although the decorations should reinforce<br />
the amulet’s auspicious power.<br />
Mango<br />
Mango, the luscious juicy fruit growing<br />
abundantly all over India, is the most<br />
popular motif in almost all craft objects,<br />
including jewellery.<br />
The popular story often narrated avers that<br />
God in one of his creative provocations<br />
extracted the juice from a mango tree<br />
as paint and drew the fi gure of a woman<br />
who looked so beautiful that put even the<br />
apsaras (celestial nymphs) to shame.<br />
Conch Shell<br />
The conch shell, obtained from river or<br />
sea-beds is considered one of the most<br />
auspicious objects used during rituals in<br />
Hindu temples.<br />
Hindus believe that the sound of the conch<br />
shell is holy and will ward off misfortunes. In<br />
Hindu families, all religious and auspicious<br />
functions start after the conch shell is blown.<br />
During ancient times, the blowing of the<br />
conch shell was the announcement of war,<br />
heralding battles to <strong>com</strong>e.<br />
Birds and Animals<br />
Only those birds and animals that<br />
have sacred associations are, and<br />
can be, used on <strong>Indian</strong> jewellery and<br />
other crafts forms.<br />
Peacock<br />
Among birds, the peacock is the most<br />
important, not only because of its beauty,<br />
elegance, colourful body and features, but<br />
because it is the VAHANA (mount) of Shiva<br />
and Paravati’s second son Skanda also<br />
known as Kumara or Karttikeya.<br />
The peacock is admired all over India.<br />
43 A ring set with a table cut diamond mounted in a pacchi settin.<br />
Pacchi jewellery setting<br />
Silver is shaped into a round wire which is then flattened. The flat wire is piereced<br />
with a groove followed by a gold polish into vairous shapes.<br />
46
Hamsa or Goose<br />
Is associated with Brahma, the Creator of<br />
the Universe. This bird inspired the <strong>Indian</strong><br />
artists over the centuries especially in Tamil<br />
Nadu.<br />
Elephant<br />
Is associated with Indra, lord of the celestial<br />
world, whose mount is the white elephant<br />
Airavat.<br />
Elephants also fl ank entrances to most royal<br />
palaces.<br />
Nandi<br />
The sacred bull Vahana(mount) of lord<br />
Shiva, is the symbol of his lord’s divine<br />
nature.<br />
The Nandi is often shown in a sitting posture<br />
at the entrance of Shiva temples.<br />
Makara<br />
A mythical animal and the Vahana(mount)<br />
of the sacred river goddess Ganga.<br />
Basra Pearls<br />
Throughout the history of <strong>Indian</strong> <strong>Jewellery</strong>,<br />
no gem has been prolifi cally used as the<br />
pearl. For many centuries the best quality<br />
pearls were found in the Persian Gulf.<br />
Until the 16 th century the pearl trade was<br />
dominated by the Arabs and Persians<br />
but, after the Portugese colonisation, the<br />
Portugese took over the trade.<br />
Pearls formed an important asset of their<br />
Far East Trade.<br />
After the Arabs regained control over<br />
the area, they also took over the trade<br />
monopoly and this was in fact fi nanced by<br />
the <strong>Indian</strong>s.<br />
The pearls came to shore at the harbour<br />
city of Basra, hence the name ‘Basra Pearls’.<br />
The pearls were send to the Persian city of<br />
Hormuz where the trade took place. From<br />
here the pearls were shipped to Mumbai,<br />
where the <strong>Indian</strong> trade took place.<br />
From there Mumbai the pearls were<br />
distributed all over the country and were<br />
even sent overseas to the West.<br />
Unfortunately, through extensive fi shing<br />
and pollution, there are no longer pearls<br />
to be found in the Persian Gulf. The Basra<br />
Pearl trade ended in the late nineteenth<br />
century.<br />
47<br />
44 A gold ring, set with diamond<br />
and emerald<br />
North India, 20 th century
48<br />
Literary reference<br />
• <strong>Indian</strong> <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Thomas Holbein Hendley<br />
• Mughal Jewels<br />
Monin Latif<br />
• Traditional <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Uppi Untracht<br />
• <strong>Jewellery</strong> of India<br />
Francis Brunel<br />
• Arts & Crafts of Tamil Nadu<br />
Nanditha Krishna<br />
• Splendours of Kerala<br />
Marg publications<br />
Oude Dieze 15<br />
5211 KT ’s Hertogenbosch<br />
The Netherlands<br />
T +31 (0)6 53 88 35 60<br />
E info@vangelderjewellery.<strong>com</strong><br />
I www.vangelderjewellery.<strong>com</strong><br />
Design & printing Biblo<strong>Van</strong>Gerwen<br />
Photography Ton van der Vorst<br />
Text Bernadette van <strong>Gelder</strong><br />
Noëlle Viguurs-van <strong>Gelder</strong>
www.vangelderjewellery.<strong>com</strong>