Journal 22 & 23 - Controller General of Patents, Designs, and Trade ...

GOVERNMENT OF INDIA 

GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS 

JOURNAL NO.22 

APRIL, 2008/ Chaitra-1 SAKA 1929 

2

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OFFICIAL NOTICE 

1. As per the requirement of Rule 41(1), it is informed that the issue No.22 of the 

Geographical Indication Journal dated 1 st April 2008 / Chaitra- 1 Saka 1929 has been 

made available to the public from 24th December 2007. 

2. As per the requirement of Rule 41(1), it is informed that the issue No.23 of the 

Geographical Indication Journal dated 1 st June 2008 / Jyaistha- 11 Saka 1929 has been 

made available to the public from 24th December 2007. 

3

HkkSxksfyd min'kZu vkosnu fooj.k% 

HkkSxksfyd 

min'kZu 

vkosnu la[;k 

HkkSxksfyd 

min'kZu ds uke 

1 nkftZfyax ¼oMZ½ 30 Pkk; 

2 nkftZfyax ¼yksxks½ 30 Pkk; 

oxZ Ekky 

3 vkjUeqyk /kkrq dk¡p 20 /kkrq dk vkbuk 

4 ikspeiYyh bDdr 24 

25 

27 

oL= rFkk oL= eky] csM vkSj Vscy 

doj 

oL=] ixMh 

dkisZV] #eky] dEcy vkSj pVkbZ 

Q'kZ dks vkoj.k djus dh oLrq 

5 Lksye oL= 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky 

6 i;Uuwj ifo=k fjax 14 xguk 

7 pansjh lkMh 24 lkfM+;ka 

8 lksykiqj 24 pknj 

4

G.I. 

Application 

No. 

Name of Geographical 

Indication Class Goods 

1 Darjeeling (Word) 30 Tea 

2 Darjeeling (Logo) 30 Tea 

3 Aranmula Kannadi 20 Metal Mirror 

4 Pochampally Ikat 

24 

25 

27 

Textile & Textile 

Goods, Bed and 

Table Cover. 

Clothing, Headgear. 

Carpets, Rugs, Mats, 

Mattings, Materials 

for covering floors 

5 Salem Fabric 24 

Textile and Textile 

Goods 

6 Payyannur Pavithra Ring 14 Jewellary 

7 Chanderi Saree 24 Sarees 

8 Solapur Chaddar 24 Chaddars 

9 Solapur Terry Towel 24 

Textile Piece Goods – 

Terry Towel 

10 Kotpad Handloom Fabric 24 


11 Mysore Silk 

12 Kota Doria 

13 Mysore Agarbathi 3 

23 

24 

25 

24 

25 

Goods 

Raw Silk Yarn 


Goods including 

Sarees 

Readymade garments, 

made ups, ties 


Goods 

Clothing 

14 Basmati Rice 30 Rice 

15 Kancheepuram Silk 24 & 25 

16 Bhavani Jamakkalam 

24 

27 

Agarbathi / 

Oodabathi (Incense / 

Joss Sticks) 

24: Textile and 

Textile Goods 

25: Clothing 

including Sarees & 

Rumal 

17 Navara – The Grain of Kerala 30 Rice 

18 Mysore Agarbathi “Logo”` 3 

5 


Goods 

Carpets, Rugs, Mats 

& Matting 

Agarbathi / 

Oodabathi

9 lksykiqj rsjh rkSfy;k 24 oL= rqdM+k eky & 

rsjh rkSfy;k 

10 dksVikM gFkdj?kk oL= 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky 

11 eSlwj flYd 23 

24 

25 

dPpk js'keh /kkxk 

oL= rFkk oL= eky 

ds lkFk lkM+h 

rS;kj diM+s] cus gq,] 

VkbZl 

12 dksVk nksfj;k 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky 

25 oL= 

13 eSlwj vxjcÙkh 3 vxjcÙkh@mncÙkh 

14 cklerh pkoy 30 Pkoy 

15 dkaphiqje flYd 24o25 24: oL= rFkk oL= 

eky( 

25: iks'kkd ds 

varxZr lkM+h vkSj 

16 Hkokuh teDdkye 24 

27 

#eky 

oL= rFkk oL= eky 

dkisZV] dEcy] pVkbZ 

vkSj pVkbZ eky 

17 uokjk & dsjy dk nkuk 30 Pkoy 

18 eSlwj vxjcÙkh 

^^yksxks** 

3 vxjcÙkh@mncÙkh 

6

19 Kullu Shawl 24 Textile and Textile Goods 

20 Bidar 

6 Boxes, Statues, 

Statuettes, Busts made of Metal 

Flower Vass, Trays 

21 

34 

Cigar Can and Ashtrays made of Metal 

21 Madurai Sungudi Saree 24 & 25 


Textile and Textile Goods 

Yarn & Threads Tied and Dyed for 

22 Orissa Ikat 

24 

25 

Textile Use 

Textile & Textile Goods 

Clothing 

23 Channapatna Toys and Dolls 28 

19 

Toys and Dolls 

Doors, Partition Screens & Veneers of 

24 Mysore Rosewood Inlay 

20 

27 

Wood 

Statues, Statutes of Wood & 

Furniture’s 

Wall Hangings of Wood 

28 

Jhoolas (Swings) & Toys 

25 Kangra Tea 30 Tea 

26 Coimbatore Wet Grinder 7 Wet Grinders 

27 Phulkari 26 

24 

Phulkari Embroidery 

28 Kalamkari 

25 

27 

Textile and Textile Goods not 

included in other Classes; Bed and 

Table Cover and all other goods 

falling in Class 24 

Clothing and all other goods falling in 

Class 25 

Furnishings, Bags, Covers, Cloth 

Envelopes, Handicraft Items, Wall 

Panels, Wall Hangings, Wall Paintings 

29 Mysore Sandalwood Oil 3 Sandalwood Oil 

30 Mysore Sandal Soap 3 Mysore Sandal Soap 

31 

Kasuti Embroidery – 

Karnataka 

26 

Kasuti Embroidery – 

Karnataka 

7

19 dqYyq 'kky 24 oL= rFkk oL= eky 

20 fcnj 6 

21 enqjS lqaxqMh ¼;k½ 

tqUuMh lkM+h 

21 

34 

22 mM+hlk bDdr 23 

23 pUuiVuk 

f[kykSuk vkSj 

xqfM+;k 

24 eSlwj jksloqM 

bUys 

cDls] ewfrZ;k¡] NksVh ewfrZ;k¡] /kkrq ds cus 

v/kZizfrek 

Qwynkuh] /kkrq ;k ydM+h dh Fkkyh 

flxkj dsu vkSj /kkrq ds cus ,s'k~Vªs 

24 o 25 oL= vkSj oL= eky 

24 

25 

oL= cukus ds fy, cka/kk vkSj jaxk x;k 

;kuZ vkSj /kkxs 

oL= vkSj oL= eky 

oL= 

28 f[kykSuk vkSj xqfM+;k 

19 

20 

27 

28 

8 

njokts] insZ vkSj ydM+h dh iryh rg 

ydM+h dh eqfrZ rFkk NksVh ewfrZ vkSj 

QuhZpj 

ydM+h ds nhokj esa yVdk;s tkus okyh 

phtsa 

>wyk vkSj f[kykSus

32 Mysore Traditional Paintings 16 

Mysore Traditional 

Paintings (Mysore) 

33 Coorg Orange 31 

Horticulture Product - 

Orange 

34 Mysore Betel Leaf 31 

Horticulture Product – 

Betel Leaf 

35 Nanjangud Banana 31 

Horticulture Product – 

Banana 

36 Palakkadan Matta Rice 30 Rice 

37 Madhubani Paintings 16 Paintings 

38 Jamnagar – MS 4 Motor Spirit (Petrol) 

39 Jamnagar – ATF 4 

Aviation Turbine Fuel 

(Kerosene Type) 

40 Krishna Godavari Gas 4 Fuel 

41 Jamnagar – LPG 4 

Liquified Petroleum 

Gas (LPG) 

42 Jamnagar – HSD 4 High Speed Disel 

43 PISCO 33 Alcoholic Beverage 

Stationery, Artist 

Materials, Instructing 

16 & Teaching Materials; 

Printing Blocks 

Goods (not included 

in 

Other classes) of 

44 Kondapalli Bommallu (Toys) 

20 Wood 

Wall hangings (non- 

27 textile) Games, 

Playthings, sporting 

28 articles not included in 

other classes; 

decoration of 

Christmas tree 

45 Poddar Diamond 14 Jewellary 

46 Kashmir Pashmina 24 Textiles 

47 Thanjavur Paintings 16 Paintings 

48 Kashmir Sozani Craft 26 Embroidery 

49 Malabar pepper 30 Pepper 

50 Allahabad Surkha 31 

Horticulture Product 

Guava 

51 Kani Shawl 25 Shawl 

Wall panels and more; 

Bolsters & Pillows; 

52 Nakshi Kantha 

19,20,24 

&25 

Throws, Cushions, 

Bed Spreads, Runners, 

Duvet Covers, Lights 

Quilts (Single & 

Double), Baby quilts, 

9

25 dkaxMk pk; 30 pk; 

26 dks;EcÙkwj osV 

xzSaMj 

7 osV xzSaMj 

27 Qqydkjh 26 Qqydkjh d

11 

Yardage for Curtains, 

Apparel Fabrics, Bath 

Linen, Bath Sheets 

(Towel), Bathroom 

furnishings, Bathroom 

linen, Bean Bag 

Covers, Blanket 

Covers, Bed Covers/ 

Spreads, Bed Sheets, 

Blackout blinds 

(outdoor) or textile, 

Coasters (Table Linen), 

Cushion Covers, Pillow 

Covers, Toilet Seat 

Covers, Curtain Fabrics 

& Materials, Curtain 

Linings, Curtain 

covers, Pillow Covers, 

Toilet Seat Covers, 

curtain Fabrics & 

Materials, Curtain 

Covers, Pillow Covers, 

Toilet Seat Covers 

Curlin Linings, Curtain 

Holders of textile 

material, Curtain Loops 

made of textile 

material, Curtain for 

windows, Dinner 

Napkins, Dish Cloths 

for drying, Dish Mats, 

Door Curtains, Drapes, 

Drapes in the nature of 

curtains, Drink coasters 

of table linen, Drink 

mats of table linen, 

Fabric Covers for 

kitchen appliances, 

Fabrics for interior 

decoration, Fabrics 

for use as linings in 

clothing, Hand Towels, 

Handkerchiefs, Wall 

Hangings, Horizontal 

slatted blinds (outdoor) 

of textile, Horizontal 

Venetian blings 

(outdoor) of textile, 

Household cloths for

36 ikyDdkM eê 

pkoy 

30 pkoy 

37 e/kqcuh fp=dyk 16 fp=dyk 

38 tkeyxj&,e- 

,l 

39 tkeuxj&,-Vh- 

,Q 

40 —".kk xksnkojh 

xSl 

41 tkeuxj&,y-ihth- 

42 tkeuxj&,p- 

,l-Mh 

4 eksVj LihjhV ¼isVªksy½ 

4 ,oh,'ku Vjckbu ;wy ¼dsjksflu 

izdkj½ 

4 ;wy 

4 fyDohQkbM isVªksfy;e xSl ¼,yih-th-½ 

4 gkbZ LihM Mht+y 

43 fildks 33 e|lkj is; 

44 dksUMiYyh 

cksEeyq 

16 

20 

27 

28 

45 Iksíkj ghjk 14 vkHkw"k.k 

46 d'ehj i'ehuk 24 oL= 

LVs'kujh] dkjhxj oLrq] funsZ'k 

vkSj f'k{k.k 

oLrq ( fizfUVax CykWd 

ydM+h dk eky ¼vU; oxZ 

es 'kkfey ugh½ 

nhokj ij Vkaxus okyh oLrq] 

¼xSj&oLrz½ [ksy] [ksy oLrq] [ksy 

inkFkZ vU; oxZ es 'kkfey ugha( 

fØlel isM+ dk ltkukA 

12

53 Silver Filigree 6,8,14,1 

8,20, 

26&28 

13 

drying glasses, 

Household linen, 

Infants bed Linen, 

Jewellery sachets, 

Kitchen 21 sachets, 

Kitchen furnishings, 

Kitchen Linen, Kitchen 

Towel Mosquito Nets, 

Net Curtains, Piano 

Covers, Quilt Covers, 

Table Runners, Sofa 

Covers, Seat covers for 

use in automobiles, 

Table covers, Table 

Linen, Table Mats, 

Table Napkins, Textile 

articles for kitchen use; 

Sarees, upattas & 

Scarfts, Aprons, 

Babies’ bibs, Casual 

wear, Casual jackets 

for women/men, 

Casual shirts, Cloths, 

Dressing gowns, 

Dresses, Eye masks, 

Head shawls, House 

robes, House Coats, 

Kaftans, Ladies long 

Scarves, Ladies Wear, 

Quilted jackets, 

Sandals, Sarongs, 

Shawls, Silk scarves, 

Silk Ties. 

Key Chains; 

Hand tools and 

Implements (Hand 

Operated) Cutlery, 

Side Arms, Razors; 

Bangles, Brooches, 

Bracelets, Arm Bands, 

Ear Rings, Ear Tops, 

Coatpins, Necklaces, 

Chains, Tie Pins, 

Buttons, Paan-Dan, 

Attar-Dan, Cigarette 

Boxes,

47 ratkowj fp=dyk 16 fp=dyk 

48 d'ehj 

f'kYi 

lkst+kuh 26 d

54 Alleppey Coir 27 

55 Muga Silk 23,24&25 

Ornamental Boxes, 

Kum-Kum Boxes, 

Perfume Tins, Leaf 

Patterned Purses,Tea 

Trays, Key Chains, 

Other Contemporary 

Monumental Replicas 

Like Charminar, 

Hightech city, Globe 

etc., And Idols of Gods 

and Goddesses; Purses 

and Hand Bags; 

Furniture, Mirrors, 

Picture, 

Frames;Brooches, Hair 

Pins, Tie Pins and 

Buttons; Decorations for 

Christmas Trees. 

Coir Mats, Mattings, 

Carpets, Rugs and 

Geotextiles. 

56 Tellicherry Pepper 30 Pepper 

57 

Coconut shell crafts of Kerala 20 

58 Screw pine crafts of Kerala 27 

59 Maddalam of Palakkad (Kerala) 15 

60 Ganjifa cards of Mysore (Karnataka) 16 

61 Navalgund Durries 24 

15 

Raw Silk Yarn, Textile 

and Textile Goods 

Including Sarees, 

Mekhela-Chadar, 

Readymade Garments, 

Made ups, Ties. 

Coconut shell products 

of Kerala 

Screw pine Craft of 

Kerala, Mats, Wall 

hangings, Shopping 

bags, Parasols, 

Caparisons, bed mats, 

boxes, purses, tea 

coasters, prayer mats. 

Maddalam – a 

percussion instrument of 

Kerala. 

Ganjifa playing cards 

falling under class 16. 

Woven Durries of 

Navalgund

16 

c kZu ds esV] 

njokts ds insZ] insZ 

dks yVdk;s tkus 

okyk] Xykl j[kus 

okys esV dk 

ykbfuu] est ij 

Xykl ds fy, j[kk 

tkus okyk esV ] 

jlksbZ ?kj ds leku 

ds fy, oL= doj 

?kj ds Hkhrjh Hkkx 

dh ltkoV ds 

diM+s ] diM+s ds 

fy, iz;qDr gksus 

okyk ykbfuu ] 

gkFk dk rkSfy;k] 

:eky] nhokj ij 

Vkaxh tkus okyh 

oLrq,¡] lh/kh 

ydhjinkZ] 

dkap dks iksaNs tkus 

okyk diM+k] ?kjsyw 

ykbfuu] foLrj dk 

ykbfuu ] vkHkw"k.k 

dh FkSyh] jlksbZ ?kj 

dks ltkus dh 

oLrqvksa ] jlksbZ ?kj 

dk rkSfy;k ] ePNj 

nkuh ] tkyhnkj 

insZa] fi;kuska ds 

doj] xís dk [kksy] 

est dk [kksy] lksQs 

dk [kksy] xkfM+;ksa 

ds Vsfcy ij yxus 

okyk doj] est dk 

doj] jlksbZ esa 

iz;qDr gskus okys 

oLrq,¡] lkM+h] nqiêk 

vkSj LdkQZ] Åijh 

tkek] cPpksa dk 

fccl] jkstejkZ esa 

igus tkus okys 

diM+s] L=h;ksa vkSj

62 Karnataka Bronze Ware 6 

Karnataka bronze 

ware – Religious 

idols, temple 

bells.and vessels, 

lamps and other ritual 

ware. 

63 Thanjavur Art Plate 14 

Thanjavur Art plate 

falling 

64 Swamimalai Bronze Icons 6 Bronze Icons 

65 Temple jewellery of Nagercoil 14 Jewellery 

66 Blue Pottery of Jaipur 21 Pottery 

67 Molela Clay Idols 21 Molela Clay Idols 

68 Kathputlis of Rajasthan 28 Kathputlis 

69 Mysore Jasmine 31 

Horticulture 

Commodity 

70 Udupi Jasmine 31 

Horticulture 

Commodity 

71 Hadagali Jasmine 31 

Horticulture 

Commodity 

72 Alleppey Green Cardamom 30 Spices 

73 Applique (Khatwa) Work of Bihar 24 & 26 Textile & Embroidery 

74 

Sujini Embroidery work of 

Muzzaffarpur District in Bihar 

24 & 26 

Bedspreads, wall 

hanging cushion & 

Bolster covers / Saris, 

Dupattas & Kurtas 

75 Sikki Grass Products of Bihar 20 

Utilitarian & 

Ornamental products 

from sikki grass 

76 Ilkal sarees 24 Ilkal Sarees 

77 Molakalmuru Sarees 24 Molkalmuru sarees 

78 Coorg Green Cardamom 30 Agricultural Products 

79 Chamba Rumal 24 Textiles 

17

53 

flYoj fQyhxjh 

6]8]14]18]20]26vkSj 

28 

18 

iq:"kksa ds jkstejkZ 

ds tSdsV] jkstejkZ 

ds deht] diM+s 

Mªsflax xkmu] oL=] 

vk¡[kksa esa yxk;s 

tkus okyk ekLd] 

flj esa yxk;s tkus 

okys 'kkWy ] ?kj esa 

igus tkus okyk 

tkek] ?kj esa igus 

tkus okyk dksV] 

fL=;ksa ds yacs 

LdkQZ] L=h ds 

oL= xeZ tSdsV] 

pIiy] lsjksaXl] 

'kkWy] js'eh LdkQZ] 

js'eh VkbZ 

Pkkoh dk psbu% 

gkFk }kjk iz;qDr 

vkStkj] pepk] 

cktwcan] Nqjk] pwM+h] 

fL=;ksa ds diM+ksa esa 

yxk;s tkus okyk 

fiu] dM+k] cktwcan] 

Ckkyh] dku ds cwans] 

dksV fiu] usdysl] 

psSu] VkbZ fiu] 

cVu] ikunku] 

vVjnku] flxjsV 

ckWDl] vkHkw"k.k dk 

cDlk ] dqedqe 

dh fMfc;k] b= dk 

fVu] if k;ksa ls 

ltk gqvk ilZ] 

pk; ds Vsª] dh 

psbu] 

vU; ledkyhu 

Lekjd dk izfr:i 

tSls pkjehukj] 

mPprduhd 'kgj] 

Xyksc vkfn] vkSj 

nsoh vkSj nsorksvksa

G. I. 

Application No. 


Indication 

Class Goods 

80 Dharwad Pedha 29 Milk Products 

81 Pokkali Rice 30 Rice 

82 Bastar Iron Craft 6 & 21 

83 Bastar Dhokra 6 & 21 

84 Bastar Wooden Craft 20 

85 Monsooned Malabar 30 Coffee 

86 Pipli Applique Work 27 

87 Konark Stone Carving 19 

19 

Flower Vase, Candle 

Stand, Photo Frame, 

Hanging Lamp, Table 

Lamp, Diya Stands, 

Key Holder, Door 

Handle, Divwan, Cot, 

Centre Table, Chairs, 

Garden items, Arch etc 

Idols of Local deities, 

Idols of Nature and 

human forms, 

Products, Candle 

stand, Door handle, 

Photo frame, Mirror 

frame, Flower Vase, 

Mobile Holder, Face 

Mask, Water Jug, Key 

Rings, Ash Tray, etc. 

Decorative Products: 

Gods and Goddesses, 

Wall Panels, Wild 

Animals and Birds, 

Carving Scenes – 

Village Life, Tribal 

Cultures, Tribal Masks, 

Tribal Folk Dances 

with Tribal Motif etc. 

Furniture with Tribal 

Motif: Diwan, Sofa Set, 

Dressing Table, Mirror 

Frame, Dining Set, 

Chairs, Doors and 

Door Panels etc. Daily 

Use Products: Combs, 

Hairpins, Knives and 

Other Kitchen, 

Accessories, Tobacco 

Cases, Musical 

Instruments, Jewellery 

Boxes etc. 

Wall Hangings made 

of textiles 

Building Materials, 

Non-metallics and

dh ewfrZ] ilZ vkSj 

FkSyh] ?kj dh 

oLrq,¡] niZ.k] fp= 

Qzse % fL=;ksa ds 

diM+ksa esa yxus 

okyk fiu] ckyksa esa 

yxk;k tkus okyk 

fiu] VkbZ dk fiu 

vkSj cVu% fdzlel 

ds isM+ dh ltkoV 

dh oLrq,¡ 

54 vYysIih dkW;j 27 Ukkfj;y ds tVs dk 

esV ] dkisZV] dacy 

vkSj HkkSxksfyd oL= 

55 Ekqxk js'ke 23]24 vkSj 25 dPpk js'eh ;kuZ] 

oL= vkSj oL= 

eky] ftlds 

varxZr lkM+h ] 

es[kykpknj] cus 

;k flys gq, diM+s] 

VkbZ A 

56 Rksyhpsjh 

fepZ 

dkyh 

57 dsjy dk Ukkfj;y 

[kksy f'kYi 

58 dsjy ds nsonkj 

ds uDdk'kh dk 

f'kYi] 

20 

30 dkyh fepZ 

20 dsjy ds Ukkfj;y 

ds [kksy dk 

mRikn] 

27 dsjy ds nsonkj 

ds uDdk'kh dk 

f'kYi] eSV] nhokj 

esa yxkbZ tkus 

okyh oLrq,¡] /kwi 

dh Nrjh] ?kksM+s 

dk vksgkj] fcLrj 

dh pVkbZ] cDl ] 

pk; j[kus dk 

eSV] iwtk dk eSV

88 Puri Pattachitra 27 

89 Budhiti bell & brass craft 6 

90 Machilipatnam Kalamkari 24, 25 & 27 

91 Nirmal Toys and Crafts 20 & 28 

92 Arni Silk 24 & 25 

Pipes for Building, 

Asphalt Pitches and 

Bitumen, Non-metallic 

Transportable 

Buildings, Monuments, 

not of metal, Stone 

Carving 


and Mattings, 

Linoleum and other 

materials for covering, 

existing floors; Wall 

hanging (Non Textile) 

Bell & Brass Metal 

Craft Products 

Textiles and Textile 

Goods, Clothing, 


and Matting, Linoleum 

and other materials for 

covering existing 

floors; Wall Hangings 

(Non Textile) 

Wooden Toys: Mirrors, 

Picture Frames 

Wood : Handicrafts 


Goods 

93 Covai Cora Cotton 24 & 25 


Goods 

94 Salem Silk 24 & 25 


Goods 

95 E. I. Leather 18 Leather 

96 Thanjavur Doll 28 Thanjavur Dolls (Toys) 

21

59 ikyDdkM 

¼dsjy½ dk 

eìye~ 

60 eSlwj ¼dukZVd½ 

dk xaftQk dkMZ 

15 eìye~ dsjy dk 

,d ctkus oky 

midj.k 

16 oxZ 16 esa vkus 

okyk xaftQk 

[ksyus okyk dkMZ 

61 uoyxqM njh 24 uoyxqM ds cqus 

gq, njh 

62 dukZVd ds 

6 dukZVd dk dkaL; 

dkaL; dh oLrq,¡ 

eky/kkfeZd ewfrZ] 

eafnj dh ?kaVh] 

c kh vkSj vU; 

/kkfeZd oLrq,¡ A 

63 ratkowj dh 

14 ratkowj dh 

dykRed Fkkyh 

dykRed Fkkyh 

64 Lokeh eyS dh 

dkaL; dh oLrq,¡ 

65 Ukkxjdksby ds 

eafnj ds vkHkw"k.k 

66 t;iwj ds uhyh 

feêh dk crZu 

67 eksysyk feV~Vh dh 

ewfrZ 

68 jktLFkku dh 

dBiqryh 

6 dkaL; dh oLrq,¡ 

14 vkHkw"k.k 

21 feêh dk dke 

21 eksysyk feV~Vh dh 

ewfrZ 

28 dBiqryh 

69 eSlwj pesyh 31 ckx+ckuh oLrq 

70 mMqih pesyh 31 ckx+ckuh oLrq 

71 gMxyh pesyh 31 ckx+ckuh oLrq 

72 vyIih gjk xeZ 

elkyk 


30 xeZ elkyk

G.I. App. 

No. 


Indication 

Class Goods 

97 Leather Toys of Indore 18 Leather Toys 

98 Bagh Prints of Dhar 

99 Banaras Brocades and Sarees 

24 

23, 24, 

25 & 26 

Textile goods 

100 Sankheda Furniture 20 furniture 

Silk brocades, textile goods,silk 

sarees, silk jamdhani,jangla 

sarees,jamawar tanchoi sarees, 

tissue sarees,cut work 

saree,butidar sarees,etc.,silk 

embroidery sarees etc. 

101 Agates of Cambay 14 Semi precious gemstones. 

102 

Datia and Tikamgarh Bell 

Metal Ware 

6 

Bell metal ware falling under 

class 6 

103 Kutch Embroidery 26 & 24 Embroidery and Textile goods 

104 Santiniketan leather goods 18 

105 Nirmal Furniture 20 Furniture 

106 Nirmal Paintings 16 & 20 

107 

Andhra Pradesh Leather 

Puppetry 

18, 27, 

& 

28 

108 Pipli Applique Craft 24 

Leather goods falling under class 

18. 

Paintings, works of art framed 

and unframed and or for 

mounting on frames. Art works 

of wood, works of art of wood. 

Goods made of leather, wall 

hangings, games, playthings and 

toys. 

109 Naga Mircha 31 Chilli 

110 Eathomozhy Tall Coconut 31 Coconut 

111 Laxman Bhog Mango 31 Mango 

112 Khirsapati Himsagar Mango 31 Mango 

113 Fazli Mango 31 Mango 

114 

Mansooned Malabar Robusta 

Coffee 

30 Coffee 

115 Assam Tea 30 Tea 

116 Nilgiri 30 Tea 


Traditional umbrella, Taras, wall 

hanging Batua letter box, ladies 

vanit bag, banners, cushion 

cover, door screen, money purse, 

money purse etc.

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79 pEck #eky 24 oL= 

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81 iksDdyh pkoy 30 pkoy 

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83 cLrj /kksdjk 6 o 21 LFkkuh; nsoh&nsorkvksa dh ewfrZ;ka] iz—fr 

84 cLrj ydM+h 

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min”kZu if=dk dk ewY; fLFkj fd;k gqvk ,d izdk”ku tqykbZ 2004 ls 

miyC/k gS A ;g ,d f}ekfld izdk”ku gksxk A izR;sd izfr dk ewY; #o 150/- 

¼,d lkS ipkl #i;s½ gS A okf’kZd pUnk #o 900/- ¼ukS lkS #i;s½ gksxk A izfro’kZ 

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,LVsV] flM~dks vkj-,e-Mh- xksnke ,fj;k] th-,l-Vh-jksM] fx.Mh] psUuS & 600 032 

ds dkÅaVj ij lHkh dk;Zfnolksa esa udn pqdkSrk Hkh fd;k tk ldrk gS A 

blds ckjs esa vfrfjDr tkudkjh dsfy,] 

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nwjHkk’k % 22502091, 92 & 93 

QSDl % 22502090 

E-mail : gir-ipo@nic.in. 

29 

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¼oh joh ½ 

HkkSxksfyd min’kZu 

iath;d

PUBLIC NOTICE 

It is brought to the notice of all concerned that a priced 

publication of Geographical Indications Journal is available 

from July 2004. It would be a bimonthly publication. The cost 

of each Journal is Rs.150/- (Rupees One Fifty Only). The 

cost of the Annual Subscription is Rs.900 (Rupees Nine 

Hundred Only). There will be six issues annually. Interested 

parties who are desirous of subscribing the Annual Subscription 

for the above Journal may forward a Demand Draft which 

should be drawn in favour of “Registrar of Geographical 

Indications” Payable at Chennai. 

The public can also remit cash at the counter of 

Geographical Indications Registry, Intellectual Property 

Office Building, Industrial Estate, SIDCO RMD Godown 

Area, G.S.T Road, Guindy, Chennai – 600 032 on all 

working days. 

For any further information in this regard please contact:- 

The Assistant Registrar of Geographical Indications, 

Geographical Indications Registry, 

Intellectual Property Office Building, 

Industrial Estate, G.S.T Road, Guindy, 

Chennai – 600 032 

Tel: 22502091, 92 & 93 

Fax No: 22502090 

E-mail: gir-ipo@nic.in. 

Sd. ___________ 

(V. RAVI) 

Registrar of Geographical Indications 

30

VÉÒ. B±É. +É´ÉänùxÉ xÉ¨¤É®ú 72 

¨ÉºÉÉ±ÉÉ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ EòÉ +É´ÉänùxÉ BEò {ÉnùÉlÉÇ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ +Éè®ú +Ê¦ÉEò®úhÉ ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ ´É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉxjÉÉ±ÉªÉ) ¨ÉºÉÉ±ÉÉ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ 

´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ ´É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉÆjÉÉ±ÉªÉ, ºÉÖMÉxvÉ ¦É´ÉxÉ BxÉ. ½äþSÉ ¤ÉÉ

G.I. – APPLICATION NUMBER 72 

Application is made by SPICES BOARD- A Commodity Board and agency under 

the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Spices Board, Ministry of Commerce 

And Industry, Sugandha Bhavan, N.H bye-pass, P.B. No.2277, Palarivattom, 

Cochin 25, India, for registration in Part - A of the register of ALLEPPEY 

GREEN Cardamom under Application No 72 in respect of Cardamom falling in 

Class 30 is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of 

Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. 

Applicant : Spices Board-A Commodity Board 

and agency under the Ministry of 

Commerce and Industry), 

Address : SPICES BOARD, 

Ministry of Commerce and 

Industry, 

SUGANDHA BHAVAN, 

N.H Bye-Pass, P.B. No.2277, 

Palarivattom, Cochin 25 

Represented by: 

M/s Anand and Anand, 

Advocates, 

Flat No.GA, AR Villa, 

New No.31, Third main road, 

Gandhi Nagar, Adayar, 

Chennai-600020 

Geographical Indication : ALLEPPEY GREEN Cardamom 

Class : 30 

32

(B) +É´ÉänùEò EòÉ xÉÉ¨É : ¨ÉºÉÉ±ÉÉ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷-BEò {ÉnùÉlÉÇ ¤ÉÉäbÇ÷ 

+Éè®ú +Ê¦ÉEò®úhÉ, ´ÉÉÊhÉVªÉ 

´É =tÉäMÉ ¨ÉÆjÉÉ±ÉªÉ Eäò iÉ½þiÉÂ 

(¤ÉÒ) {ÉiÉÉ : º{ÉÉ

Goods : Cardamom 

(A) Name of the applicant : Spices Board-A Commodity Board 


Commerce and Industry), 

(B) Address : SPICES BOARD, 


Industry, 

SUGANDHA BHAVAN, 

N.H Bye-Pass, P.B. No.2277, 

Palarivattom, Cochin 25. 



Advocates, 





(C) List of association of persons / 

Producers / organization / : To be provided on request. 

Authority 

(D) Type of goods : Agricultural goods. 

(E) Specification : 

It is mainly includes the cardamom of “Mysore” category grown in the 

ancient Travancore. Alleppey Green cardamom is the dried capsule of Elettaria 

Cardamom, kiln dried, having a reasonably uniform shade of green colour and 3 

cornered with ribbed appearance. It is cultivated in the long stretch of the 

Western Ghats and falling within the districts of Tirunelveli, Dindugul, 

Coimbatore, Nilgiris and Theni districts of the State of Tamil Nadu and 

34

B±É{ÉÒ OÉÒxÉ EòÉbÇ÷¨É¨É 

1 Ê¨É]Âõ]õÒ {ÉÒ. ½äþSÉ 4.0-6.0 

2 MÉÆvÉ 

¨ÉÒ`öÉ {ÉÖ¹{Éè±ÉÉ ÉÒiÉ±É MÉxvÉ 

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¨ÉvÉÖ®ú ¨ÉÊnù®ú ¡ò±É ºÉÒ JÉÖÉ¤ÉÚ 

3 iÉä±É ¨ÉvÉÖ®ú +Éè®ú ¡ò±É VÉèºÉÉ 

4 ¦ÉÉèÊiÉEò MÉÖhÉ ½þ®äú ®ÆúMÉ EòÉ b÷ªÉÉ¨ÉÒ]õ®ú 5-8 ÊEò.¨ÉÒ. {ÉEòÉ ®úÒfø´ÉÉ®ú Eèò{ºªÉÚ±É 

ÊiÉEòÉäxÉÉ +ÉªÉÉiÉ 

5 C±ÉÉä®úÉäÊ¡ò±É ºÉxvÉÉ®úhÉ =SSÉ, C±ÉÉä®úÉäÊ¡ò±É EòÉä EòÉ¡òÒ ºÉ¨ÉªÉ iÉEò ¦Éhb÷É®úhÉ Eäò nùÉè®úÉxÉ 

vÉ®äú ®ú½þiÉÉ ½èþ* 

(B¡ò) ¦ÉÉèMÉÉäÊ±ÉEò ºÉÆEäòiÉxÉ EòÉ (xÉÉ¨É ´É Ê´É´É®úhÉ) 

B±É{Éä OÉÒxÉ EòÉbÇ÷¨É¨É 

the districts of Idukki, Palghat, Wynad and Trivandrum of the State of Kerala, in 

India. 

ALLEPPEY GREEN CARDAMOM 

1 SOIL PH 4.0 – 6.0 

2 

3 

4 

ODOUR: 

Sweet floral cool odour 

TASTE: 

Pleasant mellow flavour fruity 

OIL: Sweet and fruity 

PHYSICAL 

CHARACTERISTICS: 

5 CHLOROPHYLL 

RETENTION: 

Green Colour Diameter 5 – 8 mm mature, ribbed 

capsules Three cornered oblong 

High, retains chlorophyll for a long time 

during storage 

(F) Name of the Geographical Indication (and particulars): 

ALLEPPEY GREEN CARDAMOM 

The identity of this brand is interwoven with the geographical name Alleppey. It 

is because previously in the native states of Travancore and Cochin, cardamom 

was a monopoly of the respective Governments. The Raja of Travancore made it 

compulsory that all the produce shall be sold to his official who forwarded it to 

the main depot in Alleppey, then the most important port of Travancore. In 

Alleppey, the cardamom was sold in auction. The best quality (Alleppey Green) 

was reserved for export. It was here in Alleppey that the cardamom was 

processed with the help of skilled labour. They segregated the produce in such a 

manner that the best quality was identified and that was separated. The 

underlying factor is that the processing was so skilled that the attributes 

identified by the then yardsticks subsequently constituted the international 

standards too. Thus upon the quality, the name Alleppey Green which still now 

holds prominence is an internationally accepted grade on its own. 

36

(VÉÒ) {ÉnùÉlÉÇ EòÉ ´ÉhÉÇxÉ 

B±É{Éä OÉÒxÉ BEò OÉäb÷ EòÉ xÉÉ¨É ½èþ +Éè®ú +{ÉxÉÒ MÉÖhÉ´ÉkÉÉ EòÒ UôÉ{É

(G) Description of goods: 

Alleppey Green is a grade name that asserts quality. The cardamom in this 

grade is of certain unique quality. The grade Alleppey Green mainly includes the 

cardamom of “Mysore” category grown in the ancient Travancore. This grade is 

unique in its colour, size, chemical constituents and oil content. Alleppey Green 

cardamom is the dried capsule of Elettaria Cardamom, kiln dried, having a 

reasonably uniform shade of green colour and 3 cornered with ribbed 

appearance. Superiority of Alleppey Green (cardamom oil) is its superior sensory 

qualities, a better total perception of the flavour, which need not necessarily, be 

dependant on the relative concentration of any one component. Incidentally the 

“Mysore” variety comprising the Alleppey Green is the largest selling Indian 

cardamom grade. Mysore (Cardamom) oil is sweet and fruity with a floral odor 

due to low amount of cineole and higher amount of terpinyl acetate, linalool & 

linalyl acetate. Cardamom belongs to the genus Elettaria, and species 

Cardamomom (Matton). The genus name is derived from the Tamil root Elettari, 

meaning cardamom seeds. The genus belong to the natural order Scitaminae, 

family Zingiberaceae under monocotyledons with diploid chromosome number, 

2n=48. . The genus consists of about six species. E. Cardamom Maton or true 

cardamom occurs in South India and it is the only economically important 

species. Cardamom is the unripened fruit of the perennial Elettaria Cardamomom. 

Enclosed in the fruit pods are, dry, brown, aromatic seeds, which are slightly 

pungent to taste. 

The genus consists of about six species only. In South India there exist 

mainly three varieties, Malabar, Mysore (the variety that constitutes Alleppey 

Green) and Vazhukka(a hybrid of the above varieties). 

(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 52 & 53. 

The geographical area of cultivation of the Alleppey Green Cardamom is in the 

38

(+É

long stretch of the Western Ghats and falling within the districts of Tirunelveli, 

Dindugul, Coimbatore, Nilgiris and Theni of the State of Tamil Nadu and the 

districts of Idukki, Palghat, Wynad and Trivandrum of the State of Kerala in 

India and lying within latitudes 8° N to 12° N and longitudes 74° E to 77° E. 

(I) Proof of origin: (Historical records) 

Cardamom-“Ela” has been used as a spice in India since pre historic times. 

Cardamom is one of the most exotic, flamboyant and highly priced species of 

spice, which has an origin in the Western Ghats and a history as old as human 

civilization. The word cardamom vernacularly nomenclatured as Elattari and its 

use from the ancient time indicated the existence and presence of this spice since 

time immemorial. Further the presence of the word Ela in the Sanskrit scriptures 

crystallizes its antecedence. Almost all ancient as well as modern researches, 

documents, commentaries and such other works point towards the Western 

Ghats as the epicenter of cardamom. The present State of Kerala accounts for 

over 60% of the cardamom produce then and now. 

It is said that, nothing is more interesting than sketching the history of spices as 

it brings in the world history itself. The ancient scriptures of Arthashastra (3 rd 

century), the Taitreya Samhita (of the later Vedic period-3oooBC), the Charaka 

Samhita (Ayurveda Text) Susrutha Samhita (1400-600 BC) among others mentions 

the importance of cardamom as a spice and as a medicine. The spice 

encyclopedia reveals that as early as in the 4 th century BC, cardamom was used 

in India as a medical herb and the Greeks and Romans imported it as a digestive 

aid. The Babylonians and Assyrians were well informed of the medicinal values 

of cardamom. It was an article of Greek trade during the 4 th century BC and it 

was listed among the Indian spices liable to duty in Alexandria. The spice history 

and its relation to India can be sketched in different phases. During 200 BC – 

1200 the Romans started sailing from Egypt to India to trade spices. In between 

1200 to 1500 Europeans started exploring passages to the East Indies. During the 

40

¨ÉºÉÉ±ÉÉ ´ªÉÉ{ÉÉ®ú Eò®ú Eò¤VÉÉ {ÉÉxÉä Eäò Ê±ÉB ªÉÖrù ±Éc÷É*

15 th – 17 th centuries the world witnessed wars for control of the spice 

trade. The Portuguese under Vasco-Da-Gama opened the gateway for spice trade 

from the west coast. Many more invaders followed. Portugal, England, Holland 

and others fought for monopoly. In 1658 the Dutch gained control and 

established exclusive trading rights from Malabar port. During the 16 th -18 th 

century the English exploration began. First the Portuguese then the Dutch and 

French and at last the English. In 1780 the Dutch and English fought a war over 

the spice trade, which the Dutch lost. All these incidents point towards the 

common fact that India was the abode of spices. Virtually all the cardamom that 

existed in the ancient era travelled from India and particularly from the southern 

belt and especially from Kerala. During that time the Arabs were the major 

traders. They were successful in trading of spices to the Mediterranean with out 

revealing the source of the spice. Cardamom too was no exception and even 

historians like Pliny thought that Cardamom originated in Arabia. However the 

curtains on the monopoly of the Arab trade were brought down by the discovery 

of sea route to India and by the landing of Portuguese. 

Since time immemorial Kerala has anchored the spice industry and 

cardamom is no difference. Kalidasa’s ‘Raghuvamsam’ describes the Pandya 

Empire that ruled South-India as a prosperous one as it was bestowed in 

abundance with cardamom and other spices. Linchosten in his Journal of Indian 

Travels (1596) describes two forms of cardamoms being used in South India. 

According to him, the lesser cardamom (The True Form) was grown in mostly in 

Calicut and Cannanore and on the coast of Malabar. The writings of Ludlow 

(then Asst. Conservator of Forests) and Watt (1872) also describes briefly about 

the cardamom cultivation in South- India Further according to Sir. William 

Logan through his Malabar Manual asserts that cardamom indeed was grown in 

Malabar and it formed a very essential form of trade. It is also pointed out by 

him that in 1703 Sir. Hamilton had come down to Kerala and traded cardamom. 

42

Bä±Éä{Éä ¨Éå ¨ÉÖJªÉ bä÷{ÉÉä EòÉä ¦ÉäVÉiÉä lÉä* iÉ¤É Bä±Éä{Éä ]ÅõÉ´ÉhÉEòÉä®ú EòÉ ¨ÉÖJªÉ ¤Éxnù®úMÉÉ½þ lÉÉ* B±É{Éä ¨Éå

By the beginning of 19 th century due to rampant cultivation the terrains of 

Western Ghats and the portion south of Palghat Gap came to be known as 

cardamom hills. Apart from Malabar the Travancore Desam also contributed 

much in the cultivation and trade of cardamom. The Alleppey port was the main 

trading location. The Madras Manuel draws references as to how cardamom was 

grown in the hills of Travancore. Previously in the native states of Travancore 

and Cochin, cardamom was a monopoly of the respective Govts. The Raja of 

Travancore made it compulsory that all the produce shall be sold to his official 

who forwarded it to the main depot in Alleppey, then the most important port of 

Travancore. In Alleppey cardamom was sold in auction. The best quality 

(Alleppey Green) was reserved for export. Thus the best quality cardamom was 

known as Alleppey Green. Various pacts were entered into by the then 

provincial rulers with the foreigners for the sale of spices. The 1761 pact by the 

King of Chirakkal and the 1795 pact by the ruler of Kadathanadu are examples of 

cardamom trading agreements. During the reign of Raja Marthandavarma, the 

trading of cardamom and other spices were brought under governmental 

control. Spices were sold in return for guns. The Travancore government even 

opened a department under its forest ministry in the 1800’s itself with its centre 

at Thodupuzha to look into cardamom cultivation and development. Later in 

1869 the said department was detached from the ministry and was placed under 

J.D Monroe as a special department. In that period the annual production of 

cardamom in this region were 30,000 thulams with Rs 12 per thulam. Further in 

1910, a “Cooperative Elam Bank” (Co-operative Cardamom Bank) was also 

constituted. 

In the post independent era, in 1963, to preserve, protect and enhance 

cardamom cultivation a ‘Cardamom Development and Marketing Advisory 

Committee’ was constituted. Subsequently in 1966 the Cardamom Board was 

formed and later in 1987 accepting a broader vision the board was conferred a 

44

(VÉä) =i{ÉÉnùxÉ EòÒ {ÉrùÊiÉ : 

wider ambit and was named as the Spices Board. At present as an effort to 

reestablish the identity of Indian spices and to get a fair share of the values 

realized in the spice trade, the Spices Board of India in collaboration with Spices 

Trading Corporation has launched “Flavourit” brand of premium Indian Spices. 

Alleppey Green is one among in this prestigious brand. 

No other spice anywhere in this world might have got such protection and 

support as cardamom in Kerala. Cardamom is such an exotic spice that during 

the period of 1000 BC it was said that a hand full of cardamom worth as much as 

a poor mans early wages. History acclaims the origin and quality of cardamom 

to Kerala. Glorifying the facts today we have the best as well as the most 

exported quality of Green Cardamom in ALLEPPEY GREEN. 

(J) Methods of Production: 

Cardamom is a shade-loving crop. It is grown extensively in the hilly 

regions of South India especially in Kerala, at elevations of 800 – 1300 m. above 

mean sea level as an under crop in forest lands. A warm and humid climate, 

loamy soils rich in organic matter, with adequate moisture and well distributed 

rain fall are certain basic earthly standards pre requisite for good cultivation of 

cardamom. The land is prepared by removing under growths and then thinning 

out forest trees to give the much required shades. The Mysore variety, which 

basically constitutes the ALLEPPEY GREEN, is robust, 3-4m in height with 

lanceolate leaves, erect panicles and ovoid capsules, thrives well only under 

assured, well distributed rain fall conditions. The best time for planting is after 

the commencement of the South West monsoon. 

The seeds germinate after 5 -7 weeks of sowing. Cardamom starts bearing 

capsules 2-3 years after planting the seedlings. Flowering commences mainly 

during April-May or some times even a bit later. It is at the maximum during 

May-June. The fruits mature in about 120 days after flowering. Capsules that are 

just short of full ripeness are harvested mainly during the months of October - 

46

°ü{É ¨Éå ºÉÖJÉÉxÉÉ* EÞòÊjÉ¨É °ü{É ¨Éå ºÉÖJÉÉxÉä EòÒ {ÉrùÊiÉªÉÉå ¨Éå {ÉÉ

November. In the peek season harvesting is carried out at an interval of 15 days, 

as this crop has a prolonged and extensive flowering period thereby inducing 

several pickings. There exist mainly two types of pickings. The first is light 

picking where in only mature capsules are harvested while the second is hard 

picking where semi-matured capsules are also removed. 

It is the post- harvesting techniques that form the true backbone of quality 

cardamom. One of the prominent post-harvesting measures is retention of green colour 

which is the soul of ALLEPPEY GREEN. Further, capsules after harvest are washed 

thoroughly in water to remove the adhering soil and other extraneous matters 

and then taken for drying in kilns. Curing is essential to bring down the initial 

moisture level of the harvested crops and also to preserve the greenness of 

capsules. Thus proper curing of capsules at harvest becomes very important. 

Generally two types of curing methods are adopted viz-natural sun drying 

(undesirable for cardamom) and artificial drying. Among the artificial methods 

pipe curing (kiln drying) is one of the best methods. Cardamom cured by sun 

drying or in a dryer, has to be protected from absorption of moisture, 

contamination with foreign orders, microorganisms and other insect infestations. 

Thus proper packing also becomes necessary. Subsequently the produce is 

graded on the basis of its colour, size, weight and chemical constituents. Some 

variety of cardamoms retains its green colour while some others turn to 

brownish and golden colours. Some others are bleached. ALLEPPEY GREEN 

cardamom is the dried capsule variety of Eletteria Cardamomum; kiln dried having 

a reasonably uniform shade of green colour, three cornered and having a ribbed 

appearance which is a unique feature of this particular brand alone. 

The methods of preservation and retention of colour of the finished 

product are by the following method of curing and preservation: 

48

(Eäò) JÉÉÊºÉªÉiÉ 

'B±Éä{Éä OÉÒxÉ'

1-By drying the cardamom immediately after harvest to retain original colour at 

which they are harvested, 

2-By maintaining the room temperature in which the cardamom is stored 

between 40° to 50° C for the first 10 – 12 hours, and then to increase the 

temperature to 55°C for the rest of the curing period, 

3-By providing proper openings for expelling the moisture from the room while 

curing. This is essential to retain green colour during drying, 

4-Avoiding raising room temperature above 65°C in order to reduce splitting of 

capsule and loss of vital volatile cardamom oil, and 

5-By the use, after polishing cured cardamom capsules, of black polythene lined 

gunny bags for packing and storing the cardamom in wooden boxes for better 

storage efficiency. 

(K) Uniqueness: 

Alleppey Green Cardamom is one of the oldest, most popular and sought 

after cardamom from India. It is the physiologically mature unripened and dried 

fruit of the perennial plant Elettaria cardamomum of the Mysore and vazhukka 

cultivars.It is cultivated in the long stretch of the Western Ghats and lying within 

the Districts of Tirunelveli, Dindugul, Coimbatore, Nilgiris and Theni Districts 

of the State of Tamil Nadu and the Districts of Idukki, Palghat, Wynad and 

Trivandrum Districts of the State of Kerala ,In India and lying within latitudes 8° 

N to 12° N and longitudes 74° to 77° E.It is having uniform shade of green colour, 

measuring 5 – 8mm in diameter, having minimum splits, mature, ringled, three 

cornered capsules, having ribbed appearance.It is also having a sweet fruity 

floral odour resulting in pleasant mellow flavour, attributable to the low amount 

of 1-8 cineole (34.2) and high amount of terpinyl acetate (34.5), Linalool (6.4) and 

Lynalyl acetate (3.1). 

Another unique feature of this grade of cardamom is its size. It stands 

apart from others in length (21mm) and also in size (5 – 8mm in diameter). This 

50

increases its chance of holding more oil. The volatile oil in the seeds of 

ALLEPPEY GREEN is much higher in percentage (7.5-11.3) when compared to 

the other grades. The commercially distilled oil from ALLEPPEY GREEN has a 

penetrating, slightly irritating, cineolic, cooling camphoraceous, disinfectant 

warm, spicy, sweet, aromatic, fruity initial impact. However the oil rapidly airs – 

off on a smelling strip loosing its freshness and there persists no residual odour 

after 24 hours. Compared to other varieties though 1, 8- cineole content is low 

and the α-terpinyl acetate content comparable, the linalool and linalyl acetate is 

markedly higher. The combination of lower 1, 8- cineole with its harsh 

camphoric note and higher linalyl acetate with its sweet fruity- floral odour 

result in the relatively pleasant mellow flavour in the variety. Its uniqueness is 

also specifically attributable to the agro-climatic factors 

Agro-climatic and physiographic conditions for Alleppey Green Cardamom 

SOIL: TYPE 

: PH 

RAINFALL 

MONSOON 

TEMPERATURE 

ALTITUDE 

(L) Inspection body: 

Sandy loam to clay loam 

4.00 – 7.1 

1500 – 3550 mm 

Southwest Monsoon, from June to early 

September, and Northeast Monsoon from 

third week of October to the end of 

November 

12 – 30 degree C 

800 to 1300 meters above MSL 

The applicants are taking steps to set up a suitable, independent and effective 

inspection body involving external members . 

51

th 1 & vkosnu i= la 78 

oxZ 30 ds v/khu vkusokys byk;ph ds laca/k esa] dwxZ gjs byk;ph 

ds jaftLVj esa Hkkx v ds v/khu iathdj.k gsrq] vkosnu i= la-78 tks 

Likbll cksMZ & ,d dekfMVh cksMZ rFkk okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky; ds 

v/khu ,tUlh] Likbll cksMZ] okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky;] lqxU/kk Hkou] 

,u ,p ckbZikl] ihch la-2277] iyfjosV~Ve] dksph 25 Hkkjr }kjk vkosnu 

fd;k x;k Fkk dks lkefxz;ksa ds Hkkxksfyd ladsrd ¼iathdj.k o lqj{kk½ 

vf/kfu;e 1999 dh /kkjk 13 mi/kkjk ¼1½ ds v/khu Lohd`r djds 

foKkfir fd;k tk jgk gSA 

vkosnd % Likblsl cksMZ & ,d dekfMVh cksMZ rFkk okf.kT; 

o m|ksx ea=ky; ds v/khu ,tUlh 

irk % Likblsl cksMZ] 

okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky; 

lqxU/kk Hkou] ,u ,p ckbZikl] 

ihch la-2277] iyfjosV~Ve] dksph 25 

HkkSxksfyd ladsr % dwxZ gjs byk;ph 

oxZ % 30 

lkexzh % byk;ph 

izfrfuf/kRo 

esllZ vkuUn vkSj vkuUn 

vf/koDRkk 

Q~ysV la-th,] ,vkj foYyk 

u;k la-31] r`rh; esbu jksM 

xkaW/kh uxj] vM;kj] psUubZ 600020 

,- vkosnd d uke % Likblsl cksMZ & ,d dekfMVh cksMZ rFkk okf.kT; 

o m|ksx ea=ky; ds v/khu ,tUlh 

54


Application is made by SPICES BOARD- A Commodity Board and agency 

under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Spices Board, Ministry of 

Commerce And Industry, Sugandha Bhavan, N.H bye-pass, P.B. No.2277, 

Palarivattom, Cochin 25, India, for registration in Part - A of the register of 

COORG GREEN CARDAMOM under Application No 78 in respect of 

Cardamom falling in Class 30 is hereby advertised as accepted under sub- 

section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and 

Protection) Act, 1999. 

Applicant : Spices Board - A Commodity Board 


Commerce and Industry. 

Address : SPICES BOARD, 

Ministry of Commerce and Industry, 

SUGANDHA BHAVAN, N.H 

Bye- Pass, P.B. No.2277, 

Palarivattom, 

Cochin 25. 



Advocates, 





Geographical Indication : COORG GREEN CARDAMOM 

Class : 30 

Goods : Cardamom 

55

ch- irk % Likblsl cksMZ] 

okf.kT; o m|ksx ea=ky; 

lqxU/kk Hkou] ,u ,p ckbZikl] 

ihch la-2277] iyfjosV~Ve] dksph 25 

izfrfuf/kRo 

esllZ vkuUn vkSj vkuUn 

vf/koDRkk 

Q~ysV la-th,] ,vkj foYyk 

u;k la-31] r`rh; esbu jksM 

xkaW/kh uxj] vM;kj] psUubZ 600020 

lh- O;fDr;ksa dk vlksfl;s”ku@ 

mRiknd@laxBu@ 

izkf/kdj.k dh lwph % izkFkZuk ij iznku fd;k tk,xk 

Mh- eky ds izdkj % d`f’k lkexzh 

b- fofufnZf’Vdj.k % 

;g eyokj izdkj ds fpjLFkkbZ ikS/kk ,ysVsfj;k byk;ph 

ds iw.kZ ifjiDo vkSj lw[ks Qy gSA bls] Hkkjr ds dukZVd ds dwxZ ftyk] 

fpdexywj ftyk] glu ftyk vkSj mRrj dujk ftyk esa mit fd;k 

tkrk gSA 

1 /kjrh ih,p 3-8&5-8 de 

2 xa/k 

diwZj BaMs xa/k 

#fp 

ddZ”k 

3 rsy diwZj vkSj ddZ”k 

4 “kkjhfjd y{k.k gjs ls lqo.kZe; ihys 

jax 5-5 ls 8-5 ,e,e 

Mk;ehVj iw.kZ ifjiDo] 

Ropk fjCM dsilwy] 

fo”o vkdkj 

56

(A) Name of the applicant : Spices Board-A Commodity Board 

And agency under the Ministry of 

Commerce and Industry 

(B) Address : SPICES BOARD, 


Industry, 

SUGANDHA BHAVAN, N.H 

Bye- Pass, P.B. No.2277, 

Palarivattom, 

Cochin 25. 



Advocates, 






Producers / organization / : To be provided on request. 

Authority 

(D) Type of goods : Agricultural goods. 


It is the fully ripened and dried fruit of the perennial plant Elettaria 

cardamomum of the Malabar variety. It is cultivated in the Coorg District, 

Chickmagalur District, Hassan District, and North Kanara District of the State 

of Karnataka, in India. 

57

5 DyksjksfQy /kkj.k 

“kfDr 

,Q- Hkkxksfyd ladsr dk uke ¼vkSj fooj.k½ 

dwxZ gjk byk;ph 

th- eky dk fooj.k 

de ;g HkaMkj.k ds 

le; DyksjksfQy dks 

nzqrxfr ls [kks nsrk gS 

dwxZ gjk bykph ,d eyckj oxZ dk izdkj gS ftls Hkkjr esa 

dukZVd ds dwxZ ftyk] fpdexywj ctyk] glu ftyk vkSj mRrj dujk 

ftyk iSnk fd;k tkrk gSA ;g oxZ mldh jax] otu] jlk;ufud la?kVd 

rFkk rsy miyC/krk esa vuks[kh gSA dwxZ gjk byk;ph ,ysVsfj;k byk;h 

ds lw[ks dsilwy gsaxs ftldk jax gjk ls czkmu jgsxh vkSj vyx fd;s 

isfZMlYl ds lkFk fLdu fjcM ;k ljy fo”o vkdkj ds gksrs gSA 

byk;ph dh egRork mldh ifjorZu”khy rsy miyC/krk ds dkj.k ls 

gSA byk;ph chtksa dh izfr”krrk mldh lw[ks cht vk/kkj ij 

ifjorZ”khy rsy ls ldkjkRed :Ik ls lglaca/k fd;k tkrk gS tcfd 

ifjorZ”khy rsy dks fNydk dh izfr”kr ds lkFk udkjkRed :Ik ls 

lglaca/k fd;k tkrk gSA eyckj izdkj ftlesa dwxZ gjk miyC/k gS dksbZ 

viokn ughaA blesa byk;ph rsy ds eq[; Hkkx gS ,sls 1]8&flfu;ksy vkSj 

,&Vsjfiukby vflVsV vf/kd ek=k esa gksrs gSA ifjorZu”khy rsy ij 

foLrkj f”k{k.k izLrqr djrk gS fd vU; izdkjksa ds rqyu esa eyckj izdkj 

esa mPp izfr”kr 1]8&flfu;ksy miyC/k gS ftlls QSykusokys #fp rFkk 

rkt+k izHkko ykrk gSaA ij Hkh ,-Vjfiukby ,flVsV dh ek=k rqyuh; gS A 

,p- mRiknu lacaf/kr HkkSxksfyd {ks= rFkk uD”ks % tSls i`’B la[;k 72 esa 

fn[kk;k x;k gS 

dwxZ gjk byk;ph dh mit fd;s tkusokys HkkSxksfyd {ks= if”pe xkWV 

ds foLrkj {ks= esa lfEefyr gS vkSj ;g Hkkjr ds deukZVd ds dwxZ ftyk] 

fpdexywj ftyk] gklu ftyk vkSj mRrj dujk ftyk ds v/khu vkrk 

gSA ;g ysfVV~;M 12 fMxzh mRrj ls 16 fMxzh mRrj vkSj ykWfxV~;wM 74 

fMxzh iwoZ ls 77 fMxzh iwoZ ds chp jgrk gSa 

58

1 

2 

3 

4 

SOIL PH 3.8 – 5.8 (Low) 

ODOUR: 

Campharous cool odour 

Harsh 

TASTE: 

OIL: Campharous & harsh 

PHYSICAL 

CHARACTERISTICS: 

5 CHLOROPHYLL 

RETENTION: 

Greenish to Golden Yellow Colour 5.5 to 

8.5 mm diameter fully matured, Skin 

ribbed capsule Global Shape 

Low, it looses chlorophyll fast during 

storage 

(F) Name of the Geographical Indication: (and particulars) 

COORG GREEN CARDAMOM 


The Coorg Green cardamom is the variety of “Malabar” category 

grown in Coorg District, Chickmagalur District,Hassan District, and North 

Kanara District of the State of Karnataka in India. This grade is unique in its 

colour, size, chemical constituents and oil content. Coorg Green cardamom 

shall be the dried capsule of Elletaria Cardamom with a colour ranging from 

greenish to brown with global shape skin ribbed or smooth and pedicels 

separated. The superiority of cardamom is due to their volatile oil contents. 

Percentage of cardamom seeds is positively co-related with volatile oil on dry 

seed basis, whereas percentage of husk to volatile oil is negatively correlated . 

The Malabar variety constituting Coorg Green too is no exception. It has the 

major components of cardamom oil i.e., 1,8- cineole and α- terpinyl acetate in 

abundance. Detailed studies on volatile oil reveal that, var. Malabar contains 

high percentage of 1, 8- cineole compared to other varieties thereby bringing in 

a fresh campharaceous cool odour with a diffusive taste and a refreshing effect. 

However the quantity of α- terpinyl acetate is comparable. 

59

vkbZ- mn~xe lacaf/kr xokg ¼,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k½ 

byk;ph & ^,yk^ dks iwoZ ,sfrgkfld le;ksa ls gekjs ns”k esa Likbl 

ds :Ik esa mi;ksx fd;k x;k gSA byk;ph Likblksa esa cgqr gh fons”kh] 

Likblksa esa byk;ph cgqr gh vkd’kZd] vR;yad`r vkSj mPp nke 

okys /kkrqokg gS ftldk ewy if”pe ?kkV esa gS vkSj ekuoh; lH;rk tSls 

iqjkus gSA byk;ph ns”kh Hkk’kk esa ,yV~Vkjh ls ukekoyhd`r gS vkSj ;g 

iqjkus tekus ls mldk mi;ksx bl Likbl dh vfuf”pr le; ls 

vfLrRo dks cks/k djkrk gSA vkxs laLd`r /keZiqLrdksa esa ,yk “kCn miyC/k 

gksus ls mldh iwoZ miyC/krk dks fuf”pr :Ik nsrk gSaA yxHkx lHkh 

vk/kqfud o iqjkus vuqla/kku] nLrkost] O;k[;k vkSj ,sls vU; dk;Z if”pr 

?kkV dks ,yk;ph dh ,filsUVj ds :Ik esa fn[kkrk gSA vc dk dukZVd 

jkT; ,yk;ph mRiknu esas 30 izfr”kr ds lkFk izFke gS ftlds ckn vkrk 

gS dsjyA 

;g dgk tkrk gS fd Likblksa dh bfrgkl dks fy[kus ls c

(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 72. 

The geographical area of cultivation of the Coorg Green Cardamom is 

comprised in the long stretch of the Western Ghats and falling within the;Coorg 

District,Chickmagalur District,Hassan District, and North Kanara District of the 

State of Karnataka in India and lying within latitudes 12° N to 16° N and 

longitudes 74° E to 77° E. 


Cardamom-“Ela” has been used as a spice in India since pre historic times. 

Cardamom is one of the most exotic, flamboyant and highly priced specie of 

spice which has an origin in the Western Ghats and a history as old as human 

civilization. The word cardamom vernacularly nomenclatured as Elattari and 

its use from the ancient time indicated the existence and presence of this spice 

since time immemorial. Further the presence of the word Ela in the Sanskrit 

scriptures crystallizes its antecedence. Almost all ancient as well as modern 

researches, documents, commentaries and such other works point towards the 

Western Ghats as the epicenter of cardamom. The present State of Karnataka 

accounts for over 30% of the cardamom produce, second to Kerala, then and 

now. 

It is said that, nothing is more interesting than sketching 

the history of spices as it brings in the world history itself. The ancient 

scriptures of Arthashastra (3 rd century), the Taitreya Samhita (of the later Vedic 

period-3oooBC), the Charaka Samhita (Ayurveda Text) Susrutha Samhita (1400- 

600 BC) among others mentions the importance of cardamom as a spice and as 

a medicine. The spice encyclopedia reveals that as early as in the 4 th century BC, 

cardamom was used in India as a medical herb and the Greeks and Romans 

imported it as a digestive aid. The Babylonians and Assyrians were well 

informed of the medicinal values of cardamom. It was an article of Greek trade 

during the 4 th century BC and it was listed among the Indian spices liable to 

duty in Alexandria. The spice history and its relation to India can be sketched 

61

canjxkg ls vuU; O;kikj gd LFkkfir fd;sA 16ohs ls 18oha “krkCnh ds 

nkSjku vaxzstksa dk [kkst vkjaHk gqvkA izFker% iksrqZxhl] fQj Mp vkSj Qzsp 

rFkk ckn esa vaxzstA 1780 esa Mp vkSj vaxzsth;ksa us Likbl O;kikj ds 

fy, ;q) fd;s vkSj Mp blesa ijkftr gq,A bu lHkh ?kVuk bl lkekU; 

rF; dh vksj /;ku vkdf’kZRk djrk gaS fd Hkkjr Likblksa dk fuoklLFkku 

FkkA okLro esa iqjkus tekus esa miyC/k lHkh byk;ph Hkkjr ls x;k gS 

vkSj eq[;r% dukZVd lfEefyr djds nf{k.k {ks= ls x;k gSA ml le; 

vjc gh eq[; O;kikjhFksA Likbl dh Jksr dks fcuk crk;s os 

Hkwe/;lkxjh; izns”k esa Likbl dh O;kikj djus esa leFkZ jgsA byk;ph 

dksbZ viokn ugha Fkh vkSj Iykbuh tSls bfrgkldkj lksprs Fksk fd 

byk;ph dk ewy vjsfc;k esa gSa ij Hkh] vjc O;kikj dh ,dkf/kdkj ij 

ij/kk Hkkjr esa leqnzh; jkLrk vkfoZHkko ij RkFkk iksrqZxhfl;ksa ds vkus ij 

[kre gks x;kA nf{k.k Hkkjr vkSj eq[;r% lHkh fo’k;ksa esa iqjkus le; ls 

dukZVd lao`) ns”k jg pqdk gSA dkfynkl fyf[kr j?kqoa”ke 

nf{k.k&Hkkjr dks jkT; djusokys ikafM; jkT; dks lao`) jkT; crk;k gS 

D;ksafd ;g byk;ph vkSj vU; Likblksa ls Hkjiwj jgkA fyadksLVu vius 

tuZy vkWQ bafM;u VªkoYl ¼1956½ esa nf{k.k Hkkjr esa mi;ksfxr 2 izdkj 

ds byk;ph ds ckjs esa crkrs gSA yMyks ¼ml le; taxyksa ds lgk;d 

laj{kd½ ds rFkk okWV ¼1872½ es Hkh nf{k.k Hkkjr esa byk;ph mit ds 

laca/k esa laf{kIr :Ik ls crkrs gSA fjMyh ¼1912½ ds vuqlkj] izkd`frd 

:Ik ls mit iSnk fd;s tkusokys ikS/kksa ls byk;ph ,d=.k dh ;g 

iz.kkyh yxHkx 1803 rd pyh] ij mlds ckn ekaWx cgqr vf/kd jgk vkSj 

Hkkjr esa cMh iSekus esa mit djuk ”kq: gks x;kA ;g Hkh izdV fd;k 

x;k fd vaxzsthljdkj }kjk Lok;Rr taxyksa esa byk;ph dks ,d QqVdj 

mit ds :Ik esa iSnk djrs Fks tcfd dwxZ taxyh {ks=ksa dks futh O;fDr;ksa 

dksk byk;ph iSnk djus ds fy, yht+ esa fn;k x;k FkkA 

Lora= ds ckn 1963 esa] byk;ph [ksrh dks lqj{k] laj{k.k rFkk o`f) 

djus ds fy, ^byk;ph fodkl rFkk foi.ku lykgdkjh lfefr^ dk xBu 

fd;k x;kA ckn esa 1966 esa byk;ph cksMZ dk fuekZ.k fd;k x;k; vkSj 

cknesa 19887 esa xgjs n`f’Vdks.k dks j[krs gq, cksMZ dks xgjs ifjf/k iznku 

fd;k x;k vkSj Likbll cksMZ uke fn;k x;k A 

fo”o ds fdlh Hkh txg esa dksbZ vkSj Likbl dks ,sls lqj{kk rFkk 

leFkZu iznku ugha fd;k x;k tSls nf{k.k Hkkjr esa byk;ph dks iznku 

fd;k x;k gSA byk;ph ,d vkd’kZd Likbl gS ftUgsa 100 chlh ds 

62

in different phases. During 200 BC – 1200 the Romans started sailing from 

Egypt to India to trade spices. In between 1200 to 1500 Europeans started 

exploring passages to the East Indies. During the 15 th – 17 th centuries the world 

witnessed wars for control of the spice trade. The Portuguese under Vasco-Da- 

Gama opened the gateway for spice trade from the west coast. Many more 

invaders followed. Portugal, England, Holland and others fought for 

monopoly. In 1658 the Dutch gained control and established exclusive trading 

rights from Malabar port. During the 16 th -18 th century the English exploration 

began. First the Portuguese then the Dutch and French and at last the English. 

In 1780 the Dutch and English fought a war over the spice trade which the 

Dutch lost. All these incidents point towards the common fact that India was 

the abode of spices. Virtually all the cardamom that existed in the ancient era 

travelled from India and particularly from the southern belt including 

Karnataka. During that time the Arabs were the major traders. They were 

successful in trading of spices to the Mediterranean with out revealing the 

source of the spice. Cardamom too was no exception and even historians like 

Pliny thought that Cardamom originated in Arabia. However the curtains on 

the monopoly of the Arab trade were brought down by the discovery of sea 

route to India and by the landing of Portuguese. Southern India and in 

particular Karnataka has been a prosperous land by all means since ancient 

time. Kalidasa’s ‘Raghuvamsam’ describes the Pandya Empire that ruled South- 

India as a prosperous one as it was bestowed in abundance with cardamom and 

other spices. Linchosten in his Journal of Indian Travels (1596) describes two 

forms of cardamoms being used in South India.. The writings of Ludlow (then 

Asst. Conservator of Forests) and Watt (1872) also describes briefly about the 

cardamom cultivation in South- India. According to Ridley (1912), this system 

of cardamom collection from naturally growing plants continued till 1803 at 

least, but in later years the demand became too large and large scale organised 

cultivation was started in India. It is also revealed that, in the forest lands 

owned by the British Government cardamom was a miscellaneous produce, 

while in Coorg, forest lands were leased out to private individuals for 

cardamom cultivation. 

63

le; ds nkSjku dgk x;k Fkk fd ,d gkFk Hkj ds byk;ph ,d xjhch 

O;fDr dh iwoZdky ikfjJfed ds leku gSsA bfrgkl nf{k.k HkkjrrFkk 

dukZVd dks byk;ph dh ewy rFkk xq.krk ds fy, lk/kqokn nsrs gSaA 

dukZVd esa dwxZ gh byk;ph dk eq[; mRiknd gSA fpdexywj vkSj 

gklu esa byk;ph [ksrh fd;s tkus ij Hkh] dwxZ gh ,slk gS tks nksuksa 

xq.krk rFkk ifj.kkekRed nksuksa esa Js’B gS A 

ts- mRiknu dh rjhds 

byk;ph ,d Nk;k pkgusokys ikS/kkgSA bls nf{k.k Hkkjr ds igkMh 

txgksa esa O;kid :Ik ls [ksrh fd;k tkrk gS A ehu leqnzh; Lrj ls 

800&1300 ehVj ÅaWpkbZ ds dwxZ esa taxyh tehuksa esa ,d vUMj Øki ds 

:Ik esa A xje vkSj xhys _rq] vkxsZfud lkexzh ls Hkjiwj mitkÅ feV~Vh] 

Ik;kZIr ueh rFkk vPNs forfjr o’kkZ dqN ewy ekud gS tks bykph dh 

vPNs mit ds fy, ewy t:jr gSA tehu esa vuqi;ksxh ikS/kksa dks 

feVkdj rS;kj fd;k tkrk gS vkSj fQj taxy dks fFkfuaxvkmV fd;k 

tkrk gS ftlls fd vko”;d Nk;k feysaA dwxZ iz.kkyh [ksrh esa] izFker% 

NksVh ek=k dh taxyh tehu] ftldh {ks=Qy DokVZj&1@6 gksrs gS] dks 

lkQ fd;k tkrk gS vkSj byk;ph cks;k tkrk gSA mRrj ;k mRrj iwohZ 

vksj ds QykVksa dks pquus ij tksj fn;k tkrk gS rkfd Ik;kZIr ikf”oZd 

Nk;k fey tk,aWA izkd`frd iqu%tuu ls ikS/kk dks fFku vkmV fd;k tkrk 

gS ;k ikS/ks dks ulZfj;ksa esa iSnk fd;k tkrk gS vkSj VªkULIykUV fd;k tkrk 

gSA 1-52 ehVj dh mFkyk xM~

In the post independent era, in 1963, to preserve, protect and enhance 

cardamom cultivation a ‘Cardamom Development and Marketing Advisory 

Committee’ was constituted. Subsequently in 1966 the Cardamom Board was 

formed and later in 1987 accepting a broader vision the board was conferred a 

wider ambit and was named as the Spices Board. 

No other spice anywhere in this world might have got such protection 

and support as cardamom in South- India. Cardamom is such an exotic spice 

that during the period of 1000 BC it was said that a hand full of cardamom 

worth as much as a poor mans early wages. History acclaims the origin and 

quality of cardamom to South- India and also to Karnataka. In Karnataka Coorg 

is the prime producer of cardamom. Although Chikmagalur and Hassan 

districts also grow cardamom, it is Coorg that stands supreme both 

qualitatively and quantitatively. 

(J) Methods of Production: 

Cardamom is a shade loving crop. It is grown extensively in the hilly regions of 

South India , Coorg being one of the prominent destination, at elevations of 800 

– 1300 m. above mean sea level as an under crop in forest lands. A warm and 

humid climate, loamy soils rich in organic matter, with adequate moisture and 

well distributed rain fall are certain basic earthly standards pre requisite for 

good cultivation of cardamom. The land is prepared by removing under 

growths and then thinning out forest trees to give the much required shades. In 

the Coorg system of planting firstly small patches of forest land ,a quarter- one 

sixth hectare in area , are cleared and planted with cardamom. Care is taken in 

selecting plots that face north or north-east for ensuring adequate lateral shade. 

Seedlings from natural regeneration are thinned out or seedlings are raised in 

nurseries and transplanted. Shallow pits of 1.5-2.5m are dug. Area is weeded 

periodically. Var. Malabar is the variety grown here. After 15 years the area is 

left to natural forest. The Malabar variety, which basically constitutes the 

COORG GREEN, is medium in size and attains 2-3m height on maturity. The 

dorsal side of the leaves may be pubescent or glabrous. Panicles are prostrate 

and the fruits are globose- oblong shape. This variety is better suited to areas of 

600-1200m elevation. Malabar type is relatively less susceptible to thrips 

infection. It can thrive under low rainfall conditions. 

65

esa ;k mlds ckn “kq: gksrh gSA ;g ebZ&twu es vf/kdre gksrh gSA ;s 

Qy yxHkx Qyus ls 120 fnuksa esa ifjiDo gksrs gSA dsIlwy tks iw.kZ 

ifjiDork ls de gS mUgsa vDrwcj&uoacj ds nkSjku gh mit fd;k tkrk 

gSA pje _rq esa mit 15 fnuksa dh varjky esa fd;k tkrk gS] D;ksafd 

Qly dk nh?kZof/k o O;kid Qyus dh vof/k gksrh gS ftlls fd fofHkUu 

fifdax izsfjr dj nsrh gSA dukZVd esa fifdax lkekU;r% vxLr esa “kq: 

gksrh gS vkSj fnlacj&tuojh rd pyrk gSA lkekU;r% nks rjg ds 

fifdax gksrs gSaA izFke gS gYdk fifdax tgkaW ifjiDo dsilwy dks ek= 

mit fd;k tkrk gS tcfd f}rh; gS dBksj fifdax tgkaW v/kZ ifjiDo 

dsilwj dks Hkh gVk;k tkrk gSA 

mit djus ds ckn dh rduhd gh xq.krkiwoZd byk;ph dh lgh 

jh< dh gM~Mh gksrh gSA dsIlwy dk gjk jax dsilwy dh DyksjksfQy 

fo’k;oLrqvksa ds ,dkxzrk ls lh/ks vuqikfrd gSA bl izdkj rFkk mlds 

Dyksu ifjiDork vof/k ds ckn ds nkSjku vf/kd DyksjksfQy dks [kksus 

tSls yxrk gS vkSj blfy, bUgsa fid djus esa nsjh dsIlwy dh vafre 

gjsiu ij ck/kk igqaWpk ldrk gSA vkxs] mit ds ckn dsIlwy dks ikuh 

ls /kks;k tkrk gS rkfd mlls fNids feV~Vh vkSj vU; ckg~; lkefxz;ksa dks 

gVk ldsa vkSj fQj mls HkV~Vk esa lq[kkus ys tk ldsaA mit fd;s x;s 

Qly dh izkjafHkd uehiu Lrj dks de djus ds fy, rFkk dsIlwyksa dh 

gjsiu dks laj{k.k iznku djus ds fy, D;wfjax djus dh vko”;drk gSA 

blfy, mit ds le; dsIlwyksa dh lgh D;wfjax cgqr vko”;d gSA 

lkekU;r% nks rjg ds D;wfjasax rjhds dks viuk;k tkrk gSA tSls izkd`frd 

lw;Z ls lq[kkuk ¼byk;ph ds fy, mi;qDr ugh½ RkFkk vizkd`frd lq[kkbZA 

vizkd`frd rjhdksa esa ikbi D;wfjax ¼HkV~Vs esa lq[kkuk½ gh cgqr csgrj 

rjhdk gSA lw;Z ls lq[kkuk ;k Mªk;j }kjk D;wj fd;s byk;ph dks ueh 

vo”kks’k.k ls] fons”kh vkMZjksa] ekbØks vkxZfule ds lkFk nwf’kr gksus ls] 

vkSj vU; dhMs ls d’Vksa ls lqj{kk iznku djuk gSA ,sls mfpr iSfdax dh 

vko”;drk gksrh gSaA blds ckn mRikn dks mldh jax] otu] vkdkj 

rFkk jlk;fud miyC/kkksa ds vk/kkj ij oxhZd`r fd;k tkrk gsA byk;ph 

ds dqN izdkj mlds gjs jax dks j[k ysrs gSa tcfd dqN czkmu rFkk lksus 

jax ds cu tkrs gsA dqN vkSj Cyhp gksrs gSA dwxZ gjk byk;ph ;k dwxZ 

fDiM byk;ph ¼vU;rk dgk tkrk gS½ ,ysVsfj;k dsjMeksee dk ,d lw[ks 

dsIlwy izdkj dk gS ftUgsa dwxZ esa iSnk fd;k tkrk gS vkSjjax isy ihyk 

ls czkmu ds gksrs gS] Xykscy vkdkj fLdu fjCM;k ljy gksrs gSA 

isfMlsYl vyx fd;s gksrs gS tks bl izdkj dk vuks[kh Qhpj gSA 

66

The period after the advent of the South- West monsoon is suitable for planting. 

The seeds germinate after 5 -7 weeks of sowing. Cardamom starts bearing 

capsules 2-3 years after planting the seedlings. Flowering commences mainly 

during April-May or some times even a bit later. It is at the maximum during 

May-June. The fruits mature in about 120 days after flowering. Capsules that 

are just short of full ripeness are harvested mainly during the months of 

October-November. In the peek season harvesting is carried out at an interval 

of 15 days, as this crop has a prolonged and extensive flowering period thereby 

inducing several pickings. In Karnataka picking usually starts by August and 

continues till December- January. There exist mainly two types of pickings. The 

first is light picking where in only mature capsules are harvested while the 

second is hard picking where semi-matured capsules are also removed. 

It is the post - harvesting techniques that form the true backbone of quality 

cardamom. The green colour of the capsule is directly proportional to the 

concentration of chlorophyll contents of the capsule. This variety as well as its 

clones during the post ripening period tends to loose more chlorophyll and 

hence delay in picking of these could affect the final greenness of the capsule. 

Further, capsules after harvest are washed thoroughly in water to remove the 

adhering soil and other extraneous matters and then taken for drying in kilns. 

Curing is essential to bring down the initial moisture level of the harvested 

crops and also to preserve the greenness of capsules. Thus proper curing of 

capsules at harvest becomes very important. Generally two types of curing 

methods are adopted viz natural sun drying (undesirable for cardamom) and 

artificial drying. Among the artificial methods pipe curing (kiln drying) is one 

of the best methods. Cardamom cured by sun drying or in a dryer, has to be 

protected from absorption of moisture, contamination with foreign orders, 

microorganisms and other insect infestations. Thus proper packing also 

becomes necessary. Subsequently the produce is graded on the basis of its 

colour, size, weight and chemical constituents. Some variety of cardamoms 

retains its green colour while some others turn to brownish and golden colours. 

Some others are bleached. COORG GREEN cardamom or Coorg clipped 

cardamom (otherwise called) is the dried capsule variety of Eletteria 

Cardamomum grown in Coorg, colour ranging from pale yellow to brown, global 

67

iwfrZ fd;s x;s lkexzh dh jax dks tkjh j[kus rFkk laj{k.k djus fuEu 

D;wfjax rjhds rFkk laj{k.k rjhds dks viukrs gS 

1- mldh okLrfod jax ftlesa mls mit fd;k x;k Fkk] mls izfr/kkj.k 

djus ds fy, byk;ph dks rqjar lq[kkuk 

2- izFke 10&12 ?kaVs esa byk;ph dks 40 fMxzh lsUVhxzsM rFkk 50 fMxzh 

lsUVhxzsM ds chp :e rkieku esa HkaMkj.k djuk vkSj fQj ckdh D;wfjax 

vof/k esa mls 55 fMxzh rkieku esa o`f) djuk 

3- D;wfjax djrs oDr dejs ls ueh dks ckgj fudkyus ds fy, lgh Nsn 

iznku djrkA ;g lw[kk djrs oDR gjs jax dks izfr/kkj.k djus ds fy, 

vko”;d gSA 

4- dsIlwy ds fLiyfVax dks de djus ds fy, 65 fMxzh ls vf/kd dejs 

rkieku dks vf/kd djus rFkk egRo ifjorZu”khy rsy dh gkfu ls cps 

vkSj 

5-mi;ksx ls] D;wj fd;s x;s byk;ph dsIlwy dks ikWfy’k djus ds ckn] 

rFkk mfpr HkaMkj {kerk ds fy, iSd djus ds fy, dkyk ikfyFkhu yku 

fd;s x;s xuh FkSyh rFkk ydMh ds ckWDl esa byk;ph dks HkaMkj.k djuk 

ds- vuks[kkiu 

dwxZ gjk byk;ph] Hkkjr ds cgqr gh iqjkus] cgqr gh izfln~/k rFkk okafNr 

byk;ph gSA ;g eyckj izdkj ds fpjLFkkbZ ikS/kk ,ysVSfj;k byk;ph ds 

iw.kZ ifjiDo vkSj lw[ks Qy gSa A bls Hkkjr ds dukZVd ds dwxZ ftyk] 

fpdexywj ftyk gklu ftyk vkSj mRrj dujk ftyk esa mit fd;k 

tkrk gSA vkSj ;g ysfVV~;wM 12 fMxzh mRrj ls 16 fMxzh mRrj vkSj 

ykaWfxV~;wM 74 fMxzh iwoZ ls 77 fMxzh iwoZ iwoZ ds chp jgrk gSA jsat gjk 

ls lksus ihys jax dk gksrk gS] bldk ekiu yxHkx 3-5&8 ,e,e 

Mk;ehVj gS ftldk fo”o vkdkj fLdu fjCM@ljy vkSj diwZj BaMh jax 

rFkk dBksj #fp gksrh gS vkSj mPp ek=k 1]8 flfu;ksy ¼41]0½ ds dkj.k 

ls ,d rkt+k izkko feyrk gS tcfd vkYQk&VsfiZukby vflVsV ¼30]0½ 

fo’k;oLrq rqyuh; gSA vkSj bl rjg dh byk;ph dk ,d fof”k’V Qhpj 

gS fd ;g cgqr /kkj.kh; gS vkSj lw[ksiu izfrjks/kh gSA vkSj ,d vifjgk;Z 

rF; tks bldh vuks[kkiu dks tksMrk gS og gS bldh ewy {ks= dk 

izkd`frd va”knkuA tSls fd Kkr gS feVVh [ksrh djus rFkk izR;sd 

Qly dh vkmDde esa eq[; vax viukrk gSA dukVZd ds byk;ph iSnk 

djusokys feV~Vh vf/kdrj mitkÅ feV~Vh gSA dukZVd ds feV~Vh ih 

68

shape, skin ribbed or smooth; the pedicels separated, a unique feature of this 

variety alone. 

The methods of preservation and retention of colour of the finished product are 

by the following method of curing and preservation; 

1 -By drying the cardamom immediately after harvest to retain original colour 

at which they are harvested, 

2 -By maintaining the room temperature in which the cardamom is stored 

between 40° to 50° C for the first 10 – 12 hours, and then to increase the 

temperature to 55°C for the rest of the curing period, 

3 -By providing proper openings for expelling the moisture from the room 

while curing. This is essential to retain green colour during drying, 

4 -Avoiding raising room temperature above 65°C in order to reduce splitting 

of capsule and loss of vital volatile cardamom oil, and 

5 -By the use, after polishing cured cardamom capsules, of black polythene 

lined gunny bags for packing and storing the cardamom in wooden boxes for 

better storage efficiency. 

(K) Uniqueness : 

Coorg Green Cardamom is one of the oldest, most popular and sought after 

cardamom from India. It is the fully ripened and dried fruit of the perennial plant 

Elettaria cardamomum of the Malabar variety.It is cultivated in the Coorg 

District, Chickmagalur District, Hassan District, and North Kanara District of the 

State of Karnataka, in India and lying within latitudes 12° N to 16° N and 

longitudes 74°E to 77° E. It is having color range from greenish to golden yellow 

color, measuring about 3.5 – 8 mm diameter, with global shape skin 

ribbed/smooth, and having campharaceous cool odour with a harsh taste and a 

refreshing effect due to the higher amount of 1, 8 cineole (41.0) while the alphaterpinyl 

acetate (30.0) content is comparable. Another distinct feature of this 

variety is that it is more adaptable and drought resistant. Another inevitable 

factor that adds to the uniqueness of this variety is the natural contribution of 

the area of origin. As it is known soil plays a very major role in the cultivation 

and outcome of every crop. The cardamom- growing soils of Karnataka are 

mostly clay loam. The soil pH of Karnataka is higher and also the CEC( Cation 

69

,p mPp gS vkSj vkSj dwxZ feV~Vh dk lhbZlh ¼ls”ku ifjorZu {kerk½ 

vU; by;ph iSnk djusokys txgksa ds rqyu esa vf/kd gSA vkxsZfud 

dkcZu fo’k;oLrq izfr Hkh vf/kd gSaA vU; feV~Vh ds xq.k/keZ rqyuh; gksus 

ij Hkh vkSlre] dukZVd ds dwxZ ls byk;ph feV~Vh esa ,u,p4vks,lh 

vkSj ,p,uvks3] vU; {ks=ksa ds rqyu esa mn~/kj.kh; ds de miyC/k gS 

dwxZ gjk byk;ph ds fy, vxzks DykbesfVd vkSj fQfl;ksxzkfQd “krsZa 

feV~Vh izdkj 

feV~Vhokyh ls Dys mitkÅ f/kd 

g~;welZ ds lkFk 

3-8&5-8 

% ih,p 

o’kkZ 

2000&300 ,e,e 

ekSle 

twu ls flracj rd 4 eghus ds 

fy, nf{k.k ekSle 

rkieku 12&30 fMxzh ls 

vkfYVV~;wM 800&1300 ehVj ,e,l,y ds 

Åij 

Lyksi tsUVy ls LVhi 

,y- fujh{k.k ckWMh 

vkosnd us lwfpr fd;k gS fd os mfpr] O;fDrxr rFkk izHkkoh fujh{k.k 

ckWMh fuekZ.k djus ds fy, dne ys jgs gS ftlesa ckg~; lnL; gksaxsA 

70

Exchange Capacity) of Coorg soils is higher than the soils of other cadamom 

growing areas. The organic carbon content percentage is also at an up. On an 

average the cardamom soils from Coorg in Karnataka contain much less 

NH4OAC and HNO3, extractable K compared to soils of other areas though the 

other soil properties are comparable. 

Agro-climatic and physiographic conditions for 

Coorg Green Cardamom 

SOIL : TYPE 

: PH 

RAINFALL 

MONSOON 

TEMPERATURE 

ALTITUDE 

SLOPE 


Sandy to clay loam with more humors 

3.8 – 5.8 

2000 – 3900 mm 

South monsoon for four months from June to 

September. 

12 - 30 degree C 

800 – 1300 meters above MSL 

Gentle to Steep 


inspection body involving external members. 

71

th-vkbZ-&vkosnu la[;k& 95 

;g vthZ fr:fp VsulZ la?k] la[;k 10] iqnqdksVS jksM] lsecVVq] fr:fp - 

620007, rfey ukMw vkSj fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k] 227/86] ch enqjS jksM] csxecqj] fnaMdy 

rfeyukMw us Hksth gS AbZ vkbZ peM+k ¼yskxks½ ds iath ds Hkkx ^v* esa vkSj ml iath ds 

vthZ vad 95 esa iathd`r djus ds fy, vthZ Hksth xbZ gS A oxZ 18 ds varxZr vkus 

okys dkQh HkkSxksfyd eky min'kZu ¼iathd`r vkSj cpko ½ fof/k] 1999 ds Hkkx 13 ds 

miHkkx ¼1½ esa Lohdkj djus gsrq foKkiu ;gk¡ fn;k x;k gS A 

vkosnd dk uke % 1- fr:fp VsulZ la?k 

lkslkbVh jftLVªlu la[;k- 33/88 

2- fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k 


irk % 1- fr:fp VsulZ la?k] la[;k 10] iqnqdksVS jksM] lsecVVq] 

fr:fp -620007, rfey ukMw 

2- fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k] 227/86] ch enqjS jksM] csxecqj] 

fnaMdy rfeyukMw 

HkkSxksfyd min'kZu % bZ vkbZ peM+k ¼yskxks laYXu fd;k tk;sxk½ 

oxZ % 18 

eky% peM+k 

73


Application is made by the Trichy Tanners Association, No. 10, Pudukkottai 

Road, Sembattu, Trichy – 620 007,Tamil Nadu and The Dindigul Tanners 

Association, 227/86, B Madurai Road, Begambur, Dindigul, Tamil Nadu for 

registration in Part A of the register of E.I. Leather (Logo) under Application 

No 95 in respect of Leather falling in Class 18 is hereby advertised as accepted 

under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications of Goods 

(Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. 

Applicant : 1. The Trichy Tanners Association 

Society Registration No. 33/88 

2. The Dindigul Tanners Association 


Address : 1. No. 10, Pudukkottai Road, 

Sembattu, 

Trichy – 620 007. 

Tamil Nadu 

Geographical Indication : E.I. LEATHER 

Class : 18 

Goods : Leather 

74 

2. No. 227/86, B Madurai Road, 

Begambur, Dindigul. 

Tamil Nadu.

d½ vkosnd dk uke % 1- fr:fp VsulZ la?k 


2- fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k 


[k½ irk % 1- fr:fp VsulZ la?k] la[;k 10] iqnqdksVS jksM] lsecVVq] 

fr:fp -620007, rfey ukMw 

2- fnaMqdy Vsuj la?k] 227/86] ch enqjS jksM] csxecqj] 

fnaMdy rfeyukMw 

¼x½ O;fä /mRiknd/ laxBu / ekaxs tkus ij fn;s tk;sxk 

izkf/kdkj la?k dh lwfp% 

¼?k½ ekyksa dk oxZ % rS;kj eky] peM+k 

¼M+½ fufnZfûdj.k % 

jax jax gYdk cht/ gYdk lqugjk ihyk jax 

Lokn vLVªhtsaV 

Vsafly {kerk yxHkx 180 fdykxzk-/ lseh2 

fldqM+us dk rkieku yxHkx 85 fMxzh- lsxz 

Vsust dk fMxzh yxHkx 40% 

Xak/k lfCt }kjk Vsufd, gq, peM+s dk xa/k 

vkokt vyx xq.k gkFk dke fd, tkus ij dszdfyax 

vkokt 

¼p½ HkkSxksfyd min'kZu ds uke ¼vkSj fooj.k½ % 

bZ vkbZ peM+k ¼yskxks laYXu fd;k tk;sxk½ 

75

(A) Name of the Applicant : 1. The Trichy Tanners Association 


2. The Dindigul Tanners Association 


(B) Address : 1. No. 10, Pudukkottai Road, 

Sembattu, 

Trichy – 620 007. 

Tamil Nadu 

2. No. 227/86, B Madurai Road, 

Begambur, Dindigul. 

Tamil Nadu. 


Producers / organization / 

Authority : To be provided on request. 

(D) Type of goods : Manufactured goods, leather 

(E) Specification 

Characteristic Light Beige 

Colour : / Pale Golden Yellow Colour 

Taste : Astringent 

Tensile Strength : About 180 Kg/ Cm 2 

Shrinkage Temperature : About 85˚ C 

Degree of Tannage : About 40% 

Smell : Characteristic Fragrance of Vegetable 

Tanned Leather Smell 

Sound : Exclusive Characteristic of crackling 

Sound if handled by hand. 

76

N½ Ekky dk fooj.k 

;g mRikn dPps [kky rFkk peM+s ls curk gS A ftls /kwi esa >qylkdj peM+k 

cuk;k tkrk gS A bl th vkbZ mRikn dks cukus dh iqjkuh izfdz;k vuks[kh gS A ftls 

'kq+) lfCt;ksa ds jl rFkk lfCt;ksa ls fudyus okys vU; phtksa ls curk gS AlkFk gh 

fofHkUu voLFkkvksa esa ekuo dh dq'kyrk ds ikjaifjd uql[kksa dks viukdj fd;k tkrk gS 

A dPps [kky dks peM+k cukus dsh izfdz;k vius vki esa vuks[kk dk;Z gS A fofHkUu 

voLFkkvksa esa lwjt dh jks'kuh esa rFkk vPNh rjg ds ikuh ds iz;ksx djus ls dPps 

peM+s esa tks ifjorZu vkrk gS og cgqr gh vuks[kk gS A lkFk ekSle Hkh bldh xq.koÙk 

esa viuks ;ksxnku nsrk gS A bZ vkbZ peM+s dk viuk vuks[kkiu gS A tks peM+s ds Hkhrj 

Nqik jgrk gS A bldh vkokt] bldk vuqHko] fo'ks"k lqxa/k] bldk izkd`frd xq.k gYdk 

jax] lHkh bldh ekSfyd xq.k gS A tks bZ vkbZ Vsfuax {ks= izkd`frd HkkSxksfyd okrkoj.k ds 

varxZr fn[kkbZ iM+rs gSa A 

¼t½ mRifr dk HkkSxksfyd {sk= vkSj uD'kk % 100 

;s b- vkbZ peM+k rkfeyukMw essa fo'ks"k dj fr:ph] fnaMdy] vjdksV ftyk ds 

mrj vkSj iYykoje esa mRiUu gksrk gS A dkWyksfu;y le; ds nkSjku peM+s tSls izeq[k 

lkeku dks okf.kfT;d cuk;k x;k A mu fnuksa O;kikj] cktkj] nwdku] jsyos vkSj 

canjxkgksa us bl iwjs mn;ksx dks LFkkfir djus esa eq[; Hwkfedk fuHkkbZ Amu mn;ksx ,d 

mn;ksx [kky dks >qylkdj peM+k cukuk Fkk A blfy, dydÙk ] cacbZ] vkSj enzkl 

[kky dks >qylkdj peM+k cukus dk eq[; dsanz Fkk vkSj dWykfu;y 'kklu ds nkSjku cgqr 

ls peM +ds dkj[kkus LFkkfir fd;s x;s A nwljh eq[; ckr dPps eky tSls dPpk [kky] 

lfCt;ksa dk vEy rFkk fczfV'k Nkouh esa izkIr ?kj vkfn dh miyfC/k A blfy, peM+s ds 

dkj[kkus enzkl] fr:fp] Dkuiqj] caxywj rFkk ve`rlj esa LFkkfir fd;s x;s A 

blh rjg iYykoje] enzkl dk vfodflr {ks= ] fr:fp vkSj fnaMdy ds 200 

ehy nf{k.k] vacwj ds 110 ehy if+'pe esa izFke fo'o ;q) ds dqN igys rFkk nkSjku gh 

n'kZuh; o`f) ns[kkh xbZ A bl {sk= esa Hkkjr ds lcls vPNs lfCt;ksa ds vEy tSls 

nf{k.k Hkkjrh; vOokje ckdZ ¼dsfl;k vkWfjdqykVk½ lsye ekbjksckyu uV ¼Vjfeusfy;k 

psC;qyk½ vkSj nf{k.k Hkkjrh; dksUuke ckdZ ¼dsfl;k fQLV;qyk½ fey tkrs gSa A bZ vkb 

77


1. E.I. Leather. (LOGO) 


The product is leather made out from raw hides and skins, which are 

Vegetable Tanned. The Age-old process followed to manufacture this G.I. 

Product is unique with respect to use of pure vegetable extracts and other 

materials of vegetable origin, combining the Human Skill involved in various 

stages with traditional recipes. The uniqueness of Tanning lies in 

understanding the visual changes that the skin exhibits in various stages on 

examination in sunlight and quality of water used in the process. Also the 

weather contributes to its quality. E.I. Leather has its own uniqueness that is 

hidden with in the skin. Its unmistakable sound, its feel, specific fragrance, its 

natural characteristic light beige colour, all are its individual characters 

exhibited under the influence of natural Geographical environment prevailing 

in the E.I tanning area. 


These E.I. Leathers are produced in Tamil Nadu predominantly in 

Trichy, Dindugal, part of North Arcot District and Pallavaram. Leather was the 

most important commodity that commercialized during the colonial period. In 

those days trade, markets, Railways and Ports have played major role in 

transformation of whole range of industries. One such industry is Tanning. 

Thus Calcutta, Bombay and Madras were main destinations of Tanned Leather 

and more Tanneries were established during colonial regime. Another 

important thing is availability of Raw Materials like Raw skins, Vegetable 

Tannins and Housing of British Army in Cantonments. Hence the Tanneries 

were established in Madras, Trichy, Kanpur, Bangalore and Amritsar etc. 

78

qyls gq, [kky dk gYdk cht jax rFkk fof'k"V lqxa/k bUgha lfCt;ksa ds vEy ls izkIr 

fd;k tkrk gS A 

vokje ckdZ mÙj Hkkjr ds vEyksa esa lcls mÙe ekuk tkrk gS vkSj bldk 

lcls vPNk iz;ksx peM+s esa fd;k tkrk gS A thfor lkexzh esa ;g {ks= vfrfjDr dkjd 

ykHkiw.kZ gSa A cdjh vkSj HksM+ enzkl izsfljMsalh tSls txgska esa jgrs gSa ,sls lw[ks vkSj xeZ 

txg tkuoj ds fy, cgqr vf/kd vuqdwy gSa A lkFk gh jsyos enzkl] fr:fp rFkk bjksM 

ds lkFk ,d foLr`r txg ij rfeyukMw ls ysdj nf{k.k vka/kzk] dsjyk QSyk gqvk gS vkSj 

nDdu ls mM+hlk rd [kky Hkstrk gS A ;g izkd`frd lqfo/kk tks 'kgj ds fodkl 

lgk;rk nsus ds lkFk lkFk izoklh etnwjks dh eafty cuh xbZ A vxzjsfj;u etnwj tkfr 

ls Hkh ;gka fo'ks"k dj izk;kjl tks bZ vkbZ Vsfuax ds dke esa cgqr egkjFkh gS] Hkh ;gka 

dke djrs gSa A tc bldk izkjaHk gqvk rc ls ysdj vkt rd fr:fp vkSj fnaMqdy 

vHkh bZ vkbZ peM+k mRIkUu dj jgk gS tcfd nwljs Vsfuax dsanz us dzkse Vsfuax dks viuk 

fy;k gS Aizekf.kr esi igys gh Hkstk tk pqdk gS A 

¼>½ mRif k dk lcwr ¼,sfrgkfld½ % 

Lkgklh osusfV;u jktukf;d us ekdksZiksyks us 13oha lnh esa vius Hkkjr ds ;k=k ds 

ckjs esa crk;k vkSj Hkkjr dsa >qyls gq, peM+s ds oL= ds ckjs esa Hkh ftdz fd;k A [kky 

dks >qylkus dh rduhd eqxy dky cgqr vf/kd ifjorZu ls gksdj xqtjh A lcwr rFkk 

fjdkMZ eqxy dky ds nkSjku fofHkUu peM+s dh lkexzh rFkk lkFk gh flDds esa Hkh fey 

tkrs gSa A fczfV'k bZLV bafM;k daiuh us Hkkjr esa viuk dk;Z izkjEHk fd;k vkSj ftlls dh 

vko';d lkexzh dk O;kikj lLrs esa gksrk gS rFkk QkSt ls lacaf/kr lkeku dks lfCt;ska 

}kjk Vsfuax djus dks ;wjksih; fof/k esa LFkkfir fd;k A lcls igyk cM+s iSekus ij 1805 

esa FkkWel isjh us lsu FkkWe enzkl esa LFkkfir fd;k A mlds ckn vkslqj] caxyksj rFkk 

psUubZ esa LFkkfir fd;k x;k gS A 

19oha lnh ds vkjEHk rd nf{k.k vOokje Vsfuax [kky rFkk peM+s ds Vsfuax ds 

fy, e'kgwj Fkk A gok ds laidZ esa vkus ij peM+k dk jax cny tkrk gS tks ns'kh; 

VsuM peM+k dk vyx xq.k gS A 1804 esa ,d nwljk egRoi.kZ fodkl gqvk tc ikafMpsjh 

79

Similarly Pallavaram, a suburb of Madars, Trichy and Dindigul 200 miles 

South, Ambur about 110 miles west, witnessed a spectacular growth of 

Tanneries shortly before and during the First World War. The region enjoyed 

proximity to the best Vegetable Tannins in India, the South India Avaram Bark 

(Cassia Auriculata) Salem Myrobalan Nuts (Terminalia chebula) and South 

India Konnam Bark (Cassia Fistula). The characteristic light beige color and 

exclusive fragrance of E.I.Tanned Leather were imparted from these vegetable 

Tannins. 

Avaram Bark was generally acknowledged to be superior to the North 

Indian Tanins and its best use was in skins. An added factor in the choice might 

have relative advantages of regions in live stock. The Madras presidency’s lay 

in goat and sheep, animals more adaptable to drier and drought prone regions. 

Further Railways connected Madras, Trichy and Erode with a wide area 

stretching from Tamil Nadu Country side to the Southern Andhra, Kerala and 

from the Deccan to Orissa supplying skins. To these natural advantages were 

added the growth of the cities resulting as a destination of migrant Labour/ the 

main body of manual workers drawn from agrarian Labour castes, chiefly the 

“PARAYARS” who have mastered the art of E.I. Tanning process. In light of 

the above reasons, Trichy and Dindigul continue to produce E.I. Leather ever 

since its existence till today where as other Tanning Centres have mostly 

switched over to chrome Tanning. Certified Map already sent. 


Traveller – Adventurer Venetian Diplomat, Marco polo extensively 

reported about his travels in India in the 13 th century and mentioned about the 

use of Tanned Leather Dress in India. The Tanning Technology under went 

many changes during mogul period. Evidences and records are available on 

various use of leather including coins during mogul periods. The British East 

India Company assumed administrative functions in India and in order to 

merchandise cheaply the essential items such as leather and army related 

leather accessories, tanneries were set up based on European methods of 

vegetable Tanning. The first large sized Tannery was set up in India by Thomas 

Parry in 1805 in San Thome, Madras followed by three more in Hoosure, 

Bangalore and Chennai. 

80

Qszap ;qjfl;u pkylZ Mh lqtk us peM+s ds Vsfuax dh ,d ,slh rduhd pykbZ ftlesa 

ekbjskcsyku ¼Vjfeusfy;k psC;qyk½ dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS ftlls vOokje ckdZ ds 

VsuM lfCt;ksa ls vDlhdj.k ds dkj.k tks jax dkyk gksrk gS ] mldks jksdk tk ldrk gS 

aA ftlus izfl) bZLV bafM;k Vsfuax rduhd dk izkjaHk fd;k A tks vHkh Hkh fcuk fdlh 

ifjorZu ds pyk vk jgk gS A 1857 ds izFke fo'o ;q) ds ckn fczVh'k ljdkj us 

eglwl fd;k fd baxySM ls fczVh'k QkSt rd eky dks Hkstuk nwjh ds dkj.k ck/kk mRiUu 

gksrh Fkh vkSj nwljs dkj.kksa ls Hkh mUgksaus vkSj Vsujh Hkkjr esa yxkbZ fo'ks"k :Ik ls enzkl 

vkSj vf/kd [kky dk dkj[kkuk fr:fp] fnaMdy] vkSj mÙj vjdksV es yxk;k Amlds 

;wjksih; ns'kksa yaMu] Qzkal] Lisu] bVyh] teZuh vkSj tkiku esa Hkh bZ vkbZ peM+s dk 

fu;kZr tksj idM+us yxk A 

1850 ls gh fr:fp dk Vsfuax ls lacaf/kr bfrgkl gS A 17 vizSy 1851 esa ,d 

O;kikj dkamfly dh cSBd enzkl ds dkWysst esa gqbZ] tks 1851 esa yanu esa gksus okys 

Hkkjrh; mn;ksx izn'kZuh dh rS;kjh ds fy, FkkA ;g dkmafly fofy;e vdZqgVZ vcZqFkkukWV 

ds }kjk pyk;k x;k Fkk A bles dPps [kky vkSj peM+s] lfCt;ksa }kjk VsuM peM+s 

fr:fp ds lfCt ds jax rFkk vU; tkuojksa ds mRikn dks Hkh izn'kZuh esa j[kk x;k Fkk 

vkSj yanu ds izn'kZuh esa fu;kZr ds fy, bartkj dj jgs Fks A peM+ksa dks fr:fp ds 

dksaMfiyh ds dksue ckdZ ¼dkfl;k fQLV;wyk½ ] rksaxkMw cksdZ ¼dkfl;k vkWfjD;qykVk½ ls 

Vsu fd;k tkrk gS A ;g izn'kZuh cgqr vf/kd lQy jgh vkSj Hkkjrh; dPps [kky rFkk 

peM+s ] lfCt;ksa }kjk Vsu fd, gq, peM+¼bZ- vkbZ peM+s ½s us vPNk iSlk olwy fd;k A 

1915 esa peM+s dk O;kikj laLFkk ok'kjeuisV] enzkl esa vkjaHk fd;k x;k vkSj Jh 

,- xqFkzs ,e- chlh dks peM+s ds Kkrk rFkk fizafliy vkSj jktkefude uk;Mq mi 

fizafliy ds rkSj ij fu;qDr gq, Aenzkl izsflMsalh ds VsulZ ml le; tks ftu rduhdh 

leL;kvksa dk lkekuk djrs Fks ] ds lek/kku ds fy, bl laLFkk dh lykg ysrs Fks vkSj 

bl laLFkk us peMs+ ds rduhddkj dsk tUe fn;k A 

81

Until the beginning of 19 th century, avaram tanning was popular for tanning of 

skins and hides in South but tended to produce leathers that on exposure to air 

underwent fawn red discoloration which was the distinguishing feature of 

county tanned leather. Another significant Development took place in the 

1804’s when a French Eurasian in Pondicherry, Charles De Susa, introduced 

Techniques of Leather Tanning using Myrobalan (Terminalia Chebula) to 

prevent darkening of colour on oxidation of locally produced avaram bark 

tanned vegetable leather with some modification in process and this created the 

famous East India (E.I.) Tanning Technology that has endured till today, almost 

unchanged. After the first war of Independence in 1857, the British realized 

that as supplies from England to the British Army in India were severely 

impeded by distance and other factors, they setup additional Tanneries in India 

particularly in Madras and more Tanneries in Trichy, Dindigul and North 

Aroct. There after E.I. Leather export picked up in European Countries namely 

London, France, Spain, Italy, Germany and also Japan. 

E.I. Leather from India is listed in leather markets in the world today. 

Trichy has the History of connection to Tanning since 1850. On 17 th April 

1851, a trade council meeting was held at College Road in Madras, which was a 

preparation for an Indian Industrial Exhibition in London in 1851. The council 

was led by William Urquhart Arbuthanot. In this there were raw hides and 

skins, vegetable Tanned leather from Trichy Vegetable dyes and other Animal 

bye products were on display and waiting for export for display in London 

Exhibition. The skins were tanned with Konnam bark (cassia fistula) from 

Condpilly, Tungadoo Bark (cassia auriculata) from Trichy. The exhibition was a 

great success and Indian Raw hides and skins, Vegetable Tanned Leather (E.I. 

Leather) fetched a good price. 

In the year 1915, a leather trade institute was opened in 

Washermanpet, Madras with Mr. A. Guthrie M.B.C., as leather expert and 

Principal and Mr. Rajamanickam Naidu as Vice Principal. The Tanners of 

Madras Presidency consulted the institute for solving certain Technical 

problems that the Tanneries faced in those days and the Institute produced 

good number of leather Technicians. 

82

×k½ mRiknu fof/k 

bZ vkbZ Vsfuax ewy fof/k]ftlds fy, LFkkuh; txgksa esa izkIr Vsfuax lkeku fo'ks"k 

:I ls vOokje vkSj ekbjksckyke dks dzfed fodkl ds Hkstk tkrk gS ftlls fd ifjJe 

rFkk izfdz;k dh vof/k dsk de fd;k tk lds vkSj lkFk gh mRikn dsk vPN cuk;k tk 

lds ij peM+s ds vkSj vU; egRoiw.kZ xq.k oSls gh jgrs gSa A vkt dy Vguh ls Bksl 

;k ikmMj :i esa isM+ ds Vguh ds Nky ¼vdkfl;k eksfykflek okbYM½ ls fudys inkFkZ 

dks iz;ksx vOokje ckdZ ds lkFk peM+s dh Vsfuax ds fy, fd;k tkrk gS A D;ksafd blesa 

vOokje ckdZ ds 18 izfr'kr Vsfuax daVsaV dh vis{kk 35 izfr'kr Vsfuax dk lkeku gS A 

Vguh ckdZ dks Bksl ;k ikmMj ds :i esa fudkyk tkrk gS vkSj tc [kky esa iz;ksx fd;k 

tkrk gS A blfy, Vsfuax dk le; cgqr ?kV tkrk gS vkSj gYds jax dk bZ vkbZ peM+k 

mRiUu djrk gS tks ns'kh rFkk fons'kh [kjhnnkjksa }kjk cgqr ilan fd;k tkrk gS A bl 

izfdz;k ds fy, iz;qDr gksus okyk ikjaifjd rjhdk tks ekSfyd xzFka esa ch- ,e- nkl us 

fy[kk gS A ftUgksusa la[;k 40] enzkl cqysfVu ] mn;ksx foHkkx ls izkIr gksus okys 

tkudkjh dk mi;ksx fd;k A estj ,- xqFkjs }kjk fyf[kr nf{k.k Hkkjr dk Vsfuax O;kikj 

dks uhps fn;s x;k gS A ftlls fd 20 oha lnh gq, cnyko dks fQj ls mRiUu dj iz'kkalk 

dh tk lds A 

[kky vkSj peM+s ds fy, ikjaifjd bZ vkbZ Vsfuax izfdz;k 

Ikkuh esa lks[kus dh izfdz;k 

xM

(J) Method of Production: 

The original method of E.I. Tanning, which employed locally available 

tanning material chiefly, avaram and myrobalams undergone evolution 

primarily to reduce drudgery, duration of processing as well as to improve the 

yield but retaining all other important characteristics of the leather. Now a 

days wattle extract in solid and powder form extracted from wattle bark tree 

(Acacia Mollissima Wild) is used in entire super session of avaram bark for 

Tanning of skins as this contains 35% Tanning contents compared to 18% 

Tannins present in avaram bark. Wattle bark extract in the form of powder or 

solid when processed in drum penetrates the pelt very quickly thus shortening 

the time of tanning greatly and produces fairly light colured E.I. Leather which 

is liked by both domestic and foreign buyers. The traditional process followed 

for the process as also given in the monograph by B.M.Das, who had used the 

information available from Department of Industries, Madras Bulletin No. 40 

entitled Handbook of the Tanning Trade of South India by Major A.Gutherie, is 

given below so as are reproduced to appreciate the changes that have happened 

primarily in the20 th century. 

Traditional E.I. Tanning process for the hides and skins: 

Soaking: 

The skins are soaked in pits, which are usually built above floor level. 

The size of the soaking pits varies from tannery to tannery. In many tanneries 

the pits are 4 feet square and 2 feet deep. Fresh skins are soaked in these pits in 

2 to 3hours, then trampled to remove the salt and to soften after which they are 

washed with water. Dry salted skins are left overnight in the soak water. Next 

morning they are broken over the beam house, which stretches them out and 

considerably softens them by the mechanical action of the blunt edge of the 

unhairing knife with which they worked. Dry skins are soaked for 24 to 36 

hours in many tanneries in water alone with 0.1 per cent solution of caustic 

soda. Certain amount of bleaching powder is a useful addition to the soak pit to 

prevent putrefaction. 

84

ls 36 ?kaVs ds fy, 0-1 izfr'kr dkfLVd lksMk ds lkFk lks[kdj j[kk tkrk gS A peM+s dks 

lM+us ls cpkus ds fy, dqN fCyfpax ikmMj x

Liming: 

Soaked skins are limed. Sheep skins having wool are coated on the flesh 

side with a thick paste of lime and folded up into bundle piece by piece. The 

bundled skins are kept overnight and next morning the wool is pulled out by 

women who grip the wool with their fingers and a short piece of wooden rod 

like a pencil while pressing the skin with their feet. Black and white wool are 

kept in separate heaps as the latter fetches higher price than the former. The 

dewooled skins are put in old lime liquor. The hair sheep and goat skin whose 

hair is of no commercial value is put in to the old lime liquor straightaway. The 

lime pits are 4 feet square and 2 feet deep sunk below the fllor. The lime liquor 

through which one lot of skins has passed may be considered as old. It is 

strengthened by the addition of some slaked lime. It is advisable to take this 

lime in a loosely woven basket and partially immerse it in the lime liquor of the 

pit retaining the coarser particles of the lime and its gritty impurities in the 

basket. The lime liquor is then thoroughly stirred to mix up the lime sediment 

with the water. The skins are then thrown in and immersed in the liquor one by 

one. They are kept in the old lime for 8 to 10 days during which period they are 

taken out and piled on the sides of the pit, the lime liquor stirred up and the 

skins put back every day. After this time the hair or the remnant of the wool 

becomes sufficiently loose to allow the unhairing to be done. Unhairing is done 

in the usual way on beam. The unhaired skins are put into fresh lime liquor for 

4 to 6 days, hauling up, stirring the lime and putting the skins back every day. 

In the new lime liquor they swell up. For total liming about 1 lb. Shell lime 

required per skin. 

Washing, fleshing and scudding: 

Washing after liming is done in the pits, which are built above the floor, 

level in order that the water after washing may be easily run out. The pits are 5 

to 8 feet square and 2 feet 6 inch deep. Skins are washed in 8 to 20 changes of 

water, over a period of 3 to 96 hours depending upon the nature of skins. The 

better the quality of the skins the more will be the washing. Between these 

washings the skins are fleshed and scudded. 

86

kqykbZ ] xqnk fudkyuk vkSj LdfMax 

Ukhacw yxkus ds ckn /kqykbZ dh fdz;k xM

This fleshing is done by putting one skin at a time on the beam flesh side up 

and scraping that side with a fleshing knife by placing a number of skins on the 

beam grain side up. The limed skins are taken in the water in a pit and are 

washed by trampling upon them in two changes of water. They are then fleshed 

on beam. They are then washed again by trampling in two more changes of 

water after which they are scudded. After this first the skins are washed again. 

The wash water is run out and the skins kept in fresh water over night. Next 

day they are fleshed second time after which they are washed by trampling 

again in two changes of water and scudded for the second time. After this they 

are washed twice by tramping and left overnight in clean water and the 

following morning again in two changes of water. They are again scudded, 

washed by trampling twice and scudded finally. In addition to all the above 

goat skins are beaten with specific beaters or kicked by women’s feet twice., 

once before the last but of and again before scudding. In the first scudding the 

skins are removed of the short hair, lime soap and the natural dirt of the skins. 

The skins fall in the process and the falling ensures softness and pliability in 

final leather. 

Tanning 

This is invariably done with avaram bark mostly in large wooden tubs 

and rarely in masonry pits. The tubs are about 3’.-6’’ to 4’ height and 3’.-6’’ in 

diameter in which 100 skins can be tanned. Tanning wooden tubs produces a 

lighter color than in masonry pits. Very great care is taken to ensure the lightest 

possible color in the tanned skins because dark and dull color considerably 

depreciates their value. For this the bark used is at first cleansed so that the dirt, 

sand and grit often associated with the bark may not darken the color of the 

leather. The bark is at first sieved which removes the fine particles, which pass 

through the sieve. It is then put into water and after a short immersion taken 

out. In this way it is rapidly passed through about 3 changes of water whereby 

the sand and grit settle down at the bottom of the tub. The bark so washed out 

in this process gives better colored leather. 

88

o`rkdj gksrk gS A ftlesa 100 ls Hkh vf/kd peM+ksa dks Vsu fd;k tk ldrk gS A Vsu 

djus okys ydM+h ds Vc eslksujh Vc dh vis{kk gYds jax mRiUu djrs gSa A Vsu fd, 

gq, peM+s esa gYds jax mRiUu djus ds fy, cgqr vf/kd /;ku fn;k tkrk gS D;ksafd 

xgjk vkSj Qhdk jax mlds ewY; dks de djrk gS A blds fy, iz;qDr gksus okys ckdZ 

dks lcls igys lkQ fd;k tkrk gS ftlls fd xanxh] ckyw vkSj dadM+ tsk vDlj ckdZ 

ds lkFk yxs gq, gksrs gSa ] peM+s ds jax dks xgjk u dj ns A igys ckdZ dk Nku fy;k 

tkrk gS ftlls fd ckjhd d.k fudy tk;s ] tks Nyuh ls fudy tkrs gSas A bldks ikuh 

esa Mqck;k tkrk gS vkSj FkksM+s le; rd Mqck dj j[kus ds ckn fudky fy;k tkrk gS A 

blh rjg bls 3 ckj ikuh cny dj tYnh /kks;k tkrk gS A ftlls ckyw vkSj dadM+ Vc 

ds csanh esa tek gks tkrs gSa A bl rjg ls /kqys ckdZ ls peM+s dks vPNk jax feyrk gSA 

,d Vsu peM+h ds fy, rhu ikmaM gok esa lw[ks vOokje ckdZ dh vko';drk 

iM+rh gS A Vsfuax ds izfdz;k dks vkjaHk djus ls igys iqjkus vOokje ds nzO; ftlls 

cgqr ls peMs+ lkQ fd, tk pqds gSa] dks Vc fy;k tkrk gS AizR;sd ikmaM peM+s ds fy, 

1-5 ikmaM vOokje ckdZ fy;k tkrk gS vkSj Åij dgk x;k gS mls lkQ fd;k tkrk gS 

A lkQ ckdZ dks iqjkus nzO; ls Hkjs Vc esa j[kk tkrk gS vkSj 24 ?kaVs ds fy, lks[kk tkrk 

gS A bl le; ckdZ dks cgqr ckj fgyk;k tkrk gS ftlls fd nzO; ls Vsfuu fudkydj 

mldk mi;ksx fd;k tk lds A /kqys gq, rFkk uhcwa yxs gq, peM+ks dks fQj nzO; esa ,d 

ds ckn ,d Vc ds ry esa Åij vkSj uhps Mkyk tkrk gS Atc lkjs peM+ksa dks chNk 

fn;k tkrk gS mudks nzO; ls ,d ds ckn ,d [khapk tkrk gS vkSj ,d txg ij

Three pounds of the air dry avaram bark are required for a pound of tanned 

skin. To start the tanning old avaram bark liquor through which one lot of skins 

has passed is taken in a tub. About 1.5lb of avaram bark for each pound of the 

expected leather is taken and cleansed as described above. The clean bark is 

then put into the tub containing the old liquor and soaked in it for 24 hours. 

During this period the bark is stirred several times to facilitate the extraction of 

its tannin by the liquor. The washed and delimed skins are then dipped in this 

liquor one by one moved to and fro from bottom of the tub. When all the skins 

have been laid down they are hauled from the liquor one by one and piled on 

the place where the rims of adjacent tubs touch each other. This is done to avoid 

the skins from coming in contact with the iron hoops of the tubs whereby the 

skins would be stained black. The bark in the liquor is then stirred. The skins 

are paired grain to grain and each such pair is dipped in the liquor moved to 

and fro a few times then pressed down into the liquor. Pairing grain to grain is 

done to cause the absorption of tannin more through the flesh than grain side of 

the skins. This produces a lighter and more even color in the tanned skins. After 

about 2 hours the skins are removed and pilled, the bark and the liquor stirred 

up and the skins put back again as usual. The skins remain in the liquor 

overnight. 

The skins are hanged facing one another and one of their hind shanks is 

thrown over a fixed round wooden peg and taking the loose ends of the shanks 

into the fold of the hanging skins the latter are twisted to wring out the water. 

Each wring out skin is then placed flesh side up on a slanting beam made from 

the trunk of a palm tree and worked by an unhairing knife to stretch out the 

skin first lengthwise and then breadth wise to give it a square pattern as far as 

possible. 

The skins are then placed in the liquor of the tub. But this time the bark 

which used to lie on the bottom of the tub in previous handling is now strewn 

between the skins just as is done in dusters and layes in heavy leather tannage. 

They are kept thus laid down for one day. The following morning the skins are 

taken out and piled over the sides of the tubs for some time and laid down 

again strewing the bark on each skin. The skins are handled in this way for four 

90

peM+s dks ,d nwljs dh rjQ eqag djds yVdk fn;k tkrk gS A ,d fgaM 'ksad dks xksy 

ydM+h ds isx esa Hkstk tkrk gS vkSj 'ksad ds [kqys Nksjksa dks yVdrs gq, peM+s ds eksM+ksa esa 

fy;k tkrk gS Ackn esa ikuh ckgj fudkyus ds fy, fupksM+k tkrk gS A izR;sd eqM+s gq, 

peM+s ds ekal Hkkx dks >wds gq, che ij j[kk tkrk gS A tks cke isM+ dks cuk gksrk gS A 

cky fudkyus okys pkdw ls yackbZ esa peM+s dks [khapk tkrk gS A mlds ckn pkSMkbZ esa 

[khapk tkrk gS A ftlls dh pkSdksj isVuZ fey lds A 

peM+s dks Vc ds nzO; esa Mky fn;k tkrk gS A bl le; ckdZ tks Vc ds ry esa 

tek jgrk gS ] og peM+s ds chp esa fc[kjk jgrk gS A tSls fd /kwy >kM+us okys ls >kM+k 

x;k gks A vkSj Hkkjh peM+s ds Vsust tek gks tkrk gS A mldks bl rjg ls ,d jkr ds 

fy, mlesa NksM+ fn;k tkrk gS A nwljs fnu lqcg peM+h dks fudky fn;k tkrk gS A Vc 

ds ,d rjQ dqN le; ds fy, peM+s dk

days by which time they absorb the available tannin and the bark and the liquor 

are both practically exhausted. After these four days the skins are wrung out 

and worked on the beam on the flesh side with the unhairing knife for the 

second time. 

The spent bark of the tub is thrown away and the liquor is undisturbed 

for some time so that the sediment in it may settle down at the bottom. About 

two thirds of the clear liquor is removed with bucket to another tub and diluted 

with water to make the required volume for handling the skins in it again. 

About 1.5 lbs of avaram bark per each pound expected leather is sieved and 

washed as previously for cleaning and soaked in the liquor of the tub. The 

stretched skins are put in this liquor strewing bark on each skin and kept so laid 

during the day. Towards evening the skins are taken out and piled. They are 

then dipped in the liquor paired grain to grain moved to and fro a few times 

and finally immersed in it by pressing them down. They remain in this 

condition without any bark between them during the night. The following 

mornings they are removed from the liquor piled and then again laid down in 

the liquor strewing bark on each skin and are kept so during the day. In this 

way they are then removed wrung out and worked on the flesh side with the 

unhairing knife over the beam for the third time. Skins of light and medium 

weight are by now tanned through and given the myroblan bath. But heavy 

skins are given another liquor for a further week and then wrung out and 

worked on the beam, which completes their tannage. 

After tanning with avaram bark the skins are treated with myroblam liquor. For 

this 25lbs of myroblans of the yellow colored Salem variety are taken for 100 lbs 

of the expected leather. The nuts are crushed and soaked in boiling water. The 

extract so prepared is diluted with cold water to make up the required volume 

of the liquor, which is then strained through a piece of cloth to separate the 

solid particles from the liquor. Skins are piled by one in another tub placed near 

by. When all the skins have so piled the myrob liquor is poured over on the pile 

of skins. Care is taken to avoid formation of air bubble between the skins, 

92

nzO; ls fudky dj

which would cause dark edged round stains on them. The skins are kept in this 

liquor for a short time after which they are removed one by one and piled in 

another tub. The liquor is poured on the pile on this tub and the skins kept 

overnight. This completes the myrobaln treatment which is necessary to 

prevent the tanned skins from assuming a dirty reddish color on exposure to 

light .The tanned leather is piled flesh side up and stretched out well with an 

unhairing knife lengthwise, breadth wise and at all angles to give a square 

pattern. The stretched out sknis are kept in a pile placing them grain side up 

and flesh to grain. Each skin is then oiled up by sprinkling till (Sesame) oil well 

in by hand. The oiled skins are kept in another pile grain to flesh. After the 

skins have remained in the oiled condition for some time, they are again rubbed 

with hand both grain and flesh and then hung up to dry partially. When the 

skins are in sammed condition, that is to say when a little moisture oozes out on 

strongly squeezing them at a double fold they are taken down and piled in a 

tub covered up and left overnight to equalize the moisture. Next day they are 

set out with a brass or copper slicker on a marble or glass table. The setting is 

done on the flesh side stretching the skins out in the same directions as was 

done when they were worked on the beam after the myroblam bath. This keeps 

the shape and pattern on the skins intact otherwise they may go out of shape 

and become shaggy. The set out skins are hung up again and dried out 

completely. The dried skins are then staked by hand on a hand staker to make 

them pliable. Staked skins are fluffed by rubbing the flesh side with “Jhama”, 

i.e., a piece of over burnt brick or with sand paper wrapped round a piece of 

wooden block of suitable size for gripping with the hand. The fluffing produces 

a nice nap on the flesh side. The edges of the skins are trimmed and they are 

then sorted on the basis of weight. 

Current Method of production of E.I. Leathers from Hides and Skins: 

While maintaining the traditional process, in order to reduce time of 

processing, wattle bark extract has mostly replaced avaram bark. To quicken 

the process, drums are being made use of, in addition to use of simple 

chemicals for liming and deliming. 

94

Vscy ij j[kk tkrk gS A ekal Hkkx dks mlh rjg [khapdj j[kk tkrk gS tSls fd 

ekbjkscsyu ckr ds nkSjku fd;k tkrk gS A vkSj lsfVax dk dke [kRe gks tkrk gS A tks 

peM+s ds vkdkj vkSj isVuZ dks Bhd j[krk gS A ugh arks mudk vkdkj fcydqy gh 

fcxM+ tk;sxk vkSj [kqjnqjk gks tk;sxk A peM+ks dsk fQj ls Vkax fn;k tkrk gS vkSj 

lq[kk;k tkrk gS A lw[ks gq, peM+s gkFk ls [khapdj yphyk cuk;k tkrk gS A [khaps gq, 

peM+ksa dks ekal okys Hkkx esa >kek ls jxM+dj jksavk fudkyk tkrk gS A >kek] T;knk tys 

gq, bZaV ds VqdM+s ;k mfpr vkdkj ds ydM+h ds CykWd ij yisVs gq, ckyw ds dkxt 

vkfn ftls gkFk esa idM+k tk lds Ajksavk fudkyus ls ekal Hkkx esa vPNk usi feyrk gS 

A peM+s dks Nksjksa dks dkVdj vkSj Hkkj ds vuqlkj vyx fd;k tkrk gS A 

[kky vkSj peM+s ls bZ vkbZ peM+k fudkyus dh vkt dh fof/k 

Ikjaifjd izfdz;k dk ikyu djus ij Hkh izfdz;k ds le; dks djus ds fy, 

vOokje ckdZ ds LFkku ij okVy ckdZ dk iz;ksx fd;k tk jgk gS A izfdz;k dks tYnh 

djus ds fy, uhacw yxkus vkSj fudkyus ds fy, lk/kkj.k jklk;u ds iz;ksx ds vfrfjDr 

Mªe dk Hkh iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS A ued yxs peM+s dks 4 ?kaVs ds fy, lks[kk tkrk gS 

vkSj ckn es nks ckj /kks;k tkrk gS A peM+ksa dks uhacw rFkk lksfM;e lYQkbMs esa 6 ?kaVs ds 

fy, NksM+k tkrk gS vkSj ikjaifjd Vsfuax izfdz;k esa ydM+h ds che ls pkdw ds }kjk cky 

fudkyk tkrk gS A vkt mRikndks c

Salted skins are soaked for 4 hours and washed twice. The skins were pasted 

with lime and sodium sulphide for about 6 hours and then the hair is removed 

using knives on wooden beams in traditional tanning process. Today, unhairing 

machines are used to increase productivity. 

The unhaired skins are put in lime pits with 35% lime and handled twice 

manually for four days and checked every day for plumping. On 5 th day, 

scudding is done using scudding knives on traditional wooden beams to 

remove the short hair and pigments (today some tanneries use scudding 

machines to increase productivity) and reliming is done in the pits. On 8 th day, 

skins are removed and fleshing is done by fleshing knives on wooden beams 

(now machines are used for unhairing to increase productivity as well as to 

reduce the drudgery. 

At this stage after removal of hair and flesh, the skins are called “PELTS” 

and pelt is weighted. Then the pelt is delimed and degreased in paddle after 

which it is pickled with 10% salt and about 0.5-1.0% sulphuric acid and kept 

over night. Next day (9 th day) the pelt is adjusted for pH to 4 and tanning is 

done with 15% wattle extract (solid) and 5% G.S. powder in drum. Next day 

(1oth day) myrobing is done in drum with 8% myroblan (Fermented Bath) and 

piled over night. On 11 th day the tanned skins are sammed and dipping done in 

glucose, Epsom salt, hypo, oxalic bath in tub and taken for oiling with 1% 

pungam oil, then hooked in dry shed for drying for a day. Next day (13 th day) 

after checking the dryness setting is carried out in setting machine and hooked 

again for drying the skins. Next day (14 th day) buffing is done in the machine in 

the flesh side for smooth feel and trimmed and packed for despatch. 

As is evident from the above process descriptions, the pit method has 

given way to drum method and ready to use wattle/mimosa extracts and spray 

dried powders have replaced avaram almost completely. 

96

ckn esa blesa 10 izfr'kr ued vkSj 0-5x1-0 izfr'kr lYQ;wfjd vEy Mkyk tkrk gS 

vkSj jkr Hkj ds fy, j[kk tkrk gS A nwljs fnu dks a4PH ds fy, Bhd fd;k tkrk gS A 

15 izfr'kr ¼Bksl½ vkSj Mªe es a5 izfr'kr th ,l ikmMj ls Vsfauax fd;k tkrk gS A nwljs 

fnu 10osa fnu Mªe esa ekbjksfcu fd;k tkrk gS A vkSj jkr Hkj 8 izfr'kr ekbjksCyku ls 

ekbjksfcu fd;k tkrk gS A jkr Hkj ds fy,


E.I.Tanning is eco-friendly and it has got an unmistakable sound, unique feel 

and specific fragrance (smells like Leather). The combination of Tanning 

materials is very unique. Possibility to generate high gloss on rubbing, flat and 

smooth surface are its special characters. E.I .Leather enjoys the advantage of 

fullness, Good water perspiration absorption, lends itself for upgradation. The 

colour of the product is very special and the light that lends the natural leather 

a warm pale golden tone, which is unique that, is amenable for converting into 

different uses like garments, shoes, furniture and Leather Goods. It is eminently 

suitable for dressing into semi chrome leather for shoe and garments, leather 

goods etc. 



inspection body involving external members. 

98

dk jax cgqr fof'kf"V gS vkSj izdk'k tks izkd`fr d peM+s dk gYdk lqugjk jax 

nsrk gS Atks vuks[kk gS ;g fofHkUu iz;ksxsak tSls oL=] pIiy] QuhZpj ifjofrZr gksrk gS 

vkSj bldh izHkqrk gS A 

B½ tk¡p fudk; 

mBk jgs gSa A 

vkosnd vuqdwy vkSj izHkko'kkyh tkap fudk; cukus ds fy, vko';d dne 

99

GOVERNMENT OF INDIA 

GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS 

JOURNAL NO.23 

JUNE , 2008/ Jyestha-11 SAKA 1929 

101

th vkbZ vkosnu la- 94 

gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx] rfeyukMq ljdkj] dqjyxe (f}rh; eafty)] psUuS 108] 

Hkkjr }kjk lsye osuiV~Vq uke ls tkusokys lsye flYd ds jftLVj ds Hkkx , esa] 

VSDLVkby vkSj VSdLVkby lkexzh rFkk diMs ftlesa Øe”k% oxZ 24]25 esa iMusokys 

lkfM+;kaW lfEefyr gS ds laca/k esa] vkosnu la-94 ds v/khu iathdj.k ds fy, vkosnu 

fd;k tkrk gS A izLrqr vkosnu tks ,rn~}kjk lkexzh dk HkkSxksfyd laadsr iathdj.k 

o lqj{kk) vf/kfu;e 1999 ds /kkjk 13 mi/kkjk 1 ds v/khu Lohd`r foKkfir gSA 

vkosnd % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx 

rfeyukMq ljdkj 

psUuS 108 

izfrfuf/k 

Jh ih- lat; xkaW/kh 

vf/koDrk 

6 ykW psEcj 

mPp U;k;ky;] psUubZ 600104 

irk % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx 


dqjyxe (II eafty) 

psUuS 108 

HkkSxksfyd ladsr % lsye flYd ftls lsye osuiV~Vq dgrs gSa 

oxZ % 24 vkSj 25 

lkexzh % VsDLVkby o VsDLVkby lkexzh vkSj diMs ftlesa 

lkM+h lfEefyr gS 

102


Application is made by Department of Handlooms and Textiles, Government of Tamil 

Nadu. Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600 108 India for registration in Part A of the 

register of Salem Silk known as Salem Venpattu under Application No 94 in respect of 

Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing including Sarees falling in Class 24, and 25 

respectively is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of 


Applicant : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, 

Government of Tamil Nadu 

Represented by 

Mr. P. SANJAI GANDHI 

Advocate 

6, Law Chamber 

High Court of Madras 

Chennai – 600104 

Address : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, 

Government of Tamilnadu 

Kuralagam, (II Floor), 

Chennai - 600108 

Geographical Indication : Salem Silk known as Salem Venpattu 

Class : 24 and 25 

Goods : Textiles and Textile goods, and 

Clothing including Sarees. 

103

,- vkosnd % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx 


psUuS 600 108 

ch- irk % gSaMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx 



psUuS 600 108 

lh- O;fDr;ksa@mRikndksa@ laxBu@ izkf/kdkjh % 

Øe la lkslkbVh dk uke o irk 

1- ,l-1227 lsye flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh 

fyV] 83@34] f}rh; vxzgkje] lsye 636 001 

2- ,l-,- 22 lwij flYe gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh 

fyV] 14] f}rh; vxzgkje lsye 636 001 

3- ,l-,- 77 lsye Jh jktx.kifr flYd gSaMywe oholZ 

dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh fyV] f}rh; vxzgkje] lsye 636 001 

4- ,l-,- 144 Jh lkSM+hLojh flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo 

lkslkbVh fyV] 21] eYyh LVªhV] iksUuEekisV] lsye 636 001 

5- ,Lk- 532 vEekisV~VS gSMywe ohoolZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh fyV] 

222@552 fr# oh-d- LVªhV] vEekisV~VS] lsye 636 003 

6- ,l-,- 141 lsye lkSjk’Vª flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo 

lkslkbVh fyV] 207]f}rh; vxzgkje]] lsye 636 001 

fdlh Hkh lkslkbVh ;k vlksfl;s”ku ftUgsa igys gh LFkkfir fd;k x;k gks ;k ftUgs 

th vkbZ- jftLVªh dks lefiZr fd;k x;s igpkus x;s {ks=h; lhekvksa ds v/khu 

(uD”kk) Hkfo’; es LFkkfir fd;k tk,xk] dkuwuh vko”;drkvksa dks vuqikyu 

djus ij] th-vkbZ ekdZ dks mi;ksx djus gdZ gksaxs A 

Mh- lkexzh dk izdkj % mRikfnr lkexzh VsDLVkby 

bZ- fofufnZf’Vdj.k % 

rhu izdkj ds lsye OgkbV js”keh lkefxz;ksa (lsye osuiV~Vq) ds fy, 

fofufnZf’Vdj.k fuEu gS% 

104

(A) Name of the Applicant : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, 

Government of Tamil Nadu, 


(B) Address : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, 


Producers / organization / Authority : 



Chennai - 600 108 

S.No. Name & Address of the Societies 

1 S.1227 Salem Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd.83/34, 

Second Agraharam, Salem- 636 001. 

2 S.A. 22 Super Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd.14, Second 

Agraharam Salem- 636 001. 

3 S.A. 77 Salem Shri. Rajaganapathy Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative 

Society Ltd., Second Agraharam Salem- 636 001. 

4 S.A. 144 Shri. Sowdeswari Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society 

Ltd., 21, Malli Street, Ponnamapet Salem -636 001 

5 S. 532 Ammapettai, Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd., 222/552, 

Thiru V.K. Street, Ammapettai, Salem – 636 003. 

6 S.A. 141 Salem Sowrashtra Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society 

Ltd., 207, Second Agraharam, 

Salem - 636 001. 

Any other societies or associations that are already established or that will be established 

in future within the identified territorial limits (map) submitted to G.I Registry will also 

become eligible to use the G.I mark upon the said goods by complying the requirements 

under law. 

105

1- /kksrh enksa ds fy, % okiZ yxHkx 6000 dksus ds lkFk gksaxs ftlls izR;sd 

3-65 ehVj dh 10 /kksrh ftldh dqy ysaXFk 37 ehVj 

gksaxsa dks mRiknu djus ds fy, i;kZIr gksA 

2- vaxoL=e enksa ds fy, % okiZ yxHkx 4500 dksus ds lkFk gksaxs ftlls izR;sd 

2-05 ehVj dh 18 vaxoL=e ftldh dqy ysaXFk 37 

ehVj gksaxsa dks mRiknu djus ds fy, i;kZIr gksA 

3- “kVZ enksa ds fy, % okiZ yxHkx 10000 dksus ds lkFk gksaxs tks dqy 

ysaXFk 12 ls 18 ehVj ds 2 ;k 3 VqdMs 

mRiknu djus ds fy, i;kZIr gksA 

Øe fooj.k 

la 

js”ke /kksrh js”ke vaxoL=e js”ke “kfVZax 

1- yackbZ 3-65 ehVj 2-05 ehVj 12 ls 18 ehVj 

2- pkMkbZ 50^^(127 lseh) 0-90 ehVj 1-17 ehVj 

3- jhM dkmaV 120 120 100 

4- dksus@bap 120 120 100 

5- fiDl@bap 55&60 (4 IykbZ) 55&60(4 IykbZ) 45&50(4 IykbZ) 

6- okiZ dkmaV 16@18Mh 16@18Mh 16@18 Mcy 

js”keh ;kuZ 

7- osQ~V dkmaV 18@20Mh 18@20Mh 18@20 

8- ckMZj fMtkbu 

fofufnZf’Vdj.k 

v- mi;ksfxr lkexzh QysV “kqn~/k t+jh QysV “kqn~/k tjh & 

vk- fMtkbu fuekZ.k 

esa mi;ksfxr dksus 

dh la[;k 

fMt+kbu fuekZ.k 

20 dqfyxS ls 

120 dqfyxS 

1 dqfyxS 4 tjh 

dksus 

20 dqfyxS ls 

120 dqfyxS 

1 dqfyxS 4 t+jh 

dksus 

mRiknu djrs oDr ;s js”keh VsDLVkby lkexzh lQsn jax ds gksrs gSaA lkQ djus 

ds ckn] os gYds laMy jax esa ifjofrZr gksaxs vkSj mlds ckn Cyhfpax ds igys 

js”keh ;kuZ ds izkjaHk Lrj esa tSlk Fkk oSls xgjs ihys jax dk gksaxsA vxj diMs 

okLrfod jax esa ifjorZu ugha gksaxs rks os “kqn~/k js”ke ugha Gsa 

106 

&

(D) Type of goods : Manufactured goods Textiles 


The following are the specifications for the three kinds of Salem White Silk (Salem 

Venpattu) goods: 

1. For Dhothy items : Warp will be with about 6000 ends 

which will be adequate for producing 

10 dhothies with a total length of 37 meters 

and each dhothy of 3.65 mtrs. 

2. For Angavastram items : Warp will be with about 4500 ends which 

will be adequate for producing18 

Angavastrams with a total length of 37 meters 

and Angavastram each of 2.05 mtrs. 

3. For shirting items : Warp will be with about 10,000 ends 

S.No. Particulars 

Silk Dhothy 

which will be adequate for producing 2 or 3 

pieces each with a length of 12 to 18 meters. 

Silk Angavastram Silk Shirtings 

1 Length: 3.65 Mtrs 2.05 mtrs 12 to 18 mtrs 

2 Width 50" (127cm) 0.90 mtrs 1.17 mtrs 

3 Reed Count 120 120 100 

4 Ends/Inch 120 120 100 

107

“kqn~/k js”ke rFkk vkVZ js”ke ds chp fuEu fHkUurkvksa dk dsUnzh; js”ke cksMZ us 

ladsr fn;k gS % 

ijh{k.k js”ke vkVZ js”ke 

tyuk & tyrk gS ij /khjs /khjs 

tyrk gS ;k tyuk can 

gks tkrk gSA 

& /kqvkaW ls tys cky dh 

xa/k vkrh gS 

& dBksj ry ds lkFk 

dkyk chM fuekZ.k djrk gS 

& bl chM dks lanfyr 

djus ij fØLVkykbu 

ikmMj esa ifj.kr gks tkrk 

“kfDr & fn;s x;s ?kukiu ds 

fy, js”ke /kkxk rqyu esa 

cgqr gh “kfDr”kkyh gksrh 

Øhl & “kqn~/k js”ke lanfyr 

izHkko ls fuekZf.kr dzhl ls 

rqjar fQj izkIr gks tkrk gS 

Jksr % js”ke cksMZ 

js”ke dk HkkSfrd y{k.k 

&vkdkj 

gSA 

gSA 

gSA 

& tyrk gS vkSj yxkrkj 

tyrk jgrk gSA 

& /kqvkaW tys x;s dkxt 

dk xa/k nsrk gS 

& lQsn jk[k curk gS 

vkSj rqjar fxj tkrk gSA 

& izd`fr esa ;g jk[k 

vfØLVkykbu gksrh gS 

& fn;s x;s ?kukiu ds 

fy, vkVZ js”ke /kkxk 

rqyu esa cgqr gh det+ksj 

gSA 

xzhl fuekZ.k ls xzg.k”khy 

gS vkSj iqu%izkfIr cgqr gh 

/kheh gS 

js”ke dk f=dks.kh; vkdkj dzkl lsD”ku gksrk gS ftudk dksus jkmaMM gksrs 

108

5 Picks/Inch 55-60 (4 ply) 55-60 (4 ply) 45-50 (4 ply) 

6 Count of Warp 16 / 18D 16 / 18D 16 / 18 Double Silk 

Yarn 

7 Count of Weft 18 / 20D 18 / 20D 18 / 20 

8 Border Design 

Specification: 

a.Material used 

b. No.of Ends used in 

design formation 

Design formation: 

Flat Pure Zari 

20 Kuligai to 

120 Kuligai 

1Kuligai 4 

Zari ends 


20 Kuligai to 

120 Kuligai 

1Kuligai 4 Zari ends 

These silk textile products at the time of manufacturing are white in colour. After 

washing they will be gradually changed to light sandal colour and thereafter deep yellow 

colour as it was in the beginning stage of silk yarn before bleaching. If the clothes did not 

change to the original colour, they are not pure silk. 

109 

- 

- 

-

& ped 

f=dks.kh; vkdkj ds dkj.k (dbZ vaxyksa esa izdk”k dks vanj vkus nsus ls) 

js”ke cgqr gh pedhys Qkbcj gS ftldk vFkZ gS mlesa izkd`frd ped miyC/k gSA 

& dofjax “kfDr 

js”ke Qkbcj esa nqcZy dofjax “kfDr miyC/k gSA ;g irys fQyesaV fuekZ.k 

ds dkj.k gSA 

& gkFk 

gkFk esa ysus ij] js”ke dk ljy] dksey VSDLpj gksrk gS] tks vU; flaFksfVd 

Qkbcj ds tSls] fpduk ugha gksrkA 

& Msfu;j 

4-5 th@Mh (lw[ks) 5 2-8&4-0 th@Mh (xhys) 

js”ke dh esdfudh xq.k/keZ 

&”kfDr 

izkd`frd Qkbcjksa esa ls js”ke gh cgqr “kfDr”kkyh gSA ij Hkh] xhys gksus 

ij og vius “kfDRk esa ls 20 izfr”kr rd [kks nsrk gSA 

& yackbZ@ yphysiu 

js”ke ls lk/kkj.k ls nqcZy yphysiu gksrk gSA FkksMs foLrkj djus ij Hkh 

Qkbcj foLrkfjr jgsaxsA 

& iyVko 

js”kek esa lk/kkj.k fozady izfrjks/k miyC/k gSA 

js”ke dh jlk;fudh xq.k/keZ 

& vo”kks’kdrk 

js”ke esa vPNk ueh iqu%izkfIr 11 izfr”kr dk gksrk gSA 

110

The Central Silk Board has indicated the differences between pure silk and Art silk as 

follows: 

Test Silk Art silk 

Burning • Burns but stops burning or 

burns slowly 

• The fumes emit burnt hair 

smell 

• Forms black bead with 

rough surface 

• The bead can be crushed 

resulting in to crystalline 

powder 

Strength • For a given thickness the 

silk thread is stronger 

comparatively 

Crease • The pure silk quickly 

Source: - Silk Board 

recovers from the crease 

formed by crushing effect. 

111 

• Burns and burns 

continuously 

• The fumes emit burnt 

paper smell 

• Forms white ash and 

drops immediately. 

• The ash is amorphous in 

nature 

• For a given thickness 

the art silk thread is 

weaker comparatively 

• Susceptible to formation 

of crease, and 

recovering 

slow. 

is rather

& fctyh pkydrk 

js”ke fctyh dk detksj pkyd gS tks mls “khry ekSle esa iguus 

lqfo/kktud cuk nsrk gSA bl ;g Hkh vFkZ gS fd js”ke LVsfVd fDyax ls 

xzg.k”khy gSA 

& vYVªkokbyV izdk”k@ c;kykWftdy vkxZsfule ls izfrjks/k 

vxj vf/kd lw;Z izdk”k esa js”ke dks is”k fd;k tk,xk rks og nqcZYk gks 

tk,xkA vxj lw[ks j[kk tk, rks dh

PHYS ICAL PROPERT IES OF S ILK 

• Shape 

Silk has a triangular shaped cross section whose corners are rounded. 

• Lustre 

Due to the triangular shape (allowing light to hit it at many different angles), silk 

is a bright fiber meaning it has a natural shine to it. 

• Covering Power 

Silk fibers have poor covering power. This is caused by their thin filament form. 

• Hand 

slippery 

When held silk has a smooth, soft texture that, unlike many synthetic fibers, is not 

• Denier 

4.5 g/d (dry) ; 2.8-4.0 g/d (wet) 

MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF SILK 

• Strength 

Silk is the strongest of all the natural fibers; however it does lose up to 20% of its 

strength when wet. 

• Elongation/Elasticity 

Silk has moderate to poor elasticity. If elongated even a small amount the fibers 

will remain stretched. 

• Resiliency 

Silk has moderate wrinkle resistance 

113

lathohjk;u isV~VS] lsaxyisV~VS vkSj rFkxiV~Vh lfEefyr gS tks igys xkaWo 

Fks A 

izFke ,t (Øsrk ;qx) ds nkSjku lsye dks ioukliqje dgk x;k Fkk 

(ikiksa dks uk”k djusokys “kgj)A f}rh; ,t(}koij;qx) esa iV~VhLoje cu 

x;k vkSj r`rh; ,t (=srk ;qx) ds nkSjku ukxsLoje (dksczk jktk dk ?kj) 

cu x;k vkSj rRdky pkSFks ,t (dfy;qx) lq[koue (gjs taxyksa dk rksrk) 

dgk tkrk gSA 

th- lkexzh dk fooj.k 

lsye flYd VsDLVkby esa lQsn js”ke /kksrh] js”ke vaxoL=e (Åij 

dh diM+s) vkSj lQsn js”ke “kfVZax lfEefyr gSA ;s lQsn js”keh lkexzh 

ikjaifjd rkSj ij fookgksa rFkk vU; R;ksgkjksa ds le; fo”ks’k enksa ds :i esa 

mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA 

bUgsa lkSjk’Vªk lewg dgs tkusokys {ks=h; cquusokys tqykgs lewg iqjkus 

tekus ls mRiknu dj jgs gSaA os lsye “kgj rFkk isfj vcZu {ks=ksa esa c+M+h 

la[;k esa jgrs gSaA 

rfeyukMq esa] js”keh lkM+h lkekU;r% dkaphiqje] fr#Hkqoue] dqaHkdks.ke] 

vkj.kh vkfn txgksa esa mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA ij Hkh] lQsn js”keh 

VsDLVkby lsye {ks= esa gh vuqie gS ftUgsa bl {ks= ds Js’B fuiq.k tqykgs 

lewg mRiknu djrs gSA 

lsye lQsn js”keh lkefxz;ksa esa mi;ksfxr js”ke lad.k (lhch) js”ke 

okeZ ddwu ls mRikfnr gS] tks ;k rks ihys jax ds gksrs gS ;k /kaq/kyk lQsn gksrs 

gSA eqMko ds fy, bu ddwu ls js”ke dks Cyhp fd;k tkrk gS rkfd ;g 

js”keh ;kuZ “kqn~/k lQsn jax esa pedsaxsA 7&8 js”keh dk dhM+k ddwu ls bu 

js”keh Qkbcj dks ,d lkFk ?kwek tkrk gS rkfd bls xaHkhj Qkbcj cuk ldsaA 

bl ;kuZ 16@18 Mh ;k 18@20 Mh xq.krk ds gksrs gSA 

gSA 

lsye js”keh /kksrh mudh ped ds lkFk lQsn izdkj ds fy, e”kgwj 

114

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF S ILK 

• Absorbency 

Silk has a good moisture regain of 11%. 

• Electrical Conductivity 

Silk is a poor conductor of electricity making it comfortable to wear in cool 

weather. This also means however, that silk is susceptible to static cling. 

• Resistance to Ultraviolet Light/ Biological Organisms 

Silk can become weakened if exposed to too much sunlight. Silk may also be 

attacked by insects, especially if left dirty. 

• Chemical Reactivity/Resistance 

Silk is resistant to mineral acids. It is yellowed by perspiration and will dissolve 

in sulfuric acid. 

• Dimensional Stability 

Silk does not generally shrink due to the fact that its molecular structure is not 

easily distorted. 


Salem Silk known as Salem Venpattu 

SALEM is one of the major cities in Tamil Nadu, and is the headquarters of the 

district. It is situated on both sides of the Thirumanimutthu River in a valley between the 

Servarayan (Yercaud) hills and Javadu hills. It has grown into a larger metropolitan city 

corporation by covering a number of surrounding areas. 

The eastern part is Salem proper and the Southern Section is Gugai, and they are 

well known for the manufacture of handloom products. The Western side comprises of 

115

,p- mRiknu ds HkkSxksfyd foLrkj vkSj i`’B la- 139 esa nf”kZr ekufp= 

lsye js”ke mRiknu ls lacaf/kr HkkSxksfyd {ks= rFkk uD”kk dks i`’B la- 139 esa 

fn[kk;s vuqlkj foLrkj fd;k x;k gS 

{ks=ksa dk eq[; dsUnz tgkaW lsye flYd dk mRiknu fd;k tk jgk gS 

mlesa fuEu lfEefyr gSA 

1- lsye “kgj 2- vEekisV 3- iksUuEekisV 4- xqxZ 

5- “ksokisV 6- oylS;wj 7- dksaMkyeiV~Vh 

,Q- ewy dk xokg (,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k) 

“kgj vkSj ftyk dk uke % lsye “kCn dk “kCnO;qRifRr dbZ fopkjksa 

rFkk oknfooknksa dh vksj ys pyk gSA bl “kCn dk dbZ izfr;ksxh vFkZ rFkk 

ewy gSA mlesa ls eq[; gS fuEu ikaWp “kCn % psje] lSye] lY;k] ls;yS vkSj 

lhyeA 

gSaMywe lsye esa ,d iqjkuk m|ksx gS vkSj eq[;rk esa ;g d`f’k ds ckn 

f}rh; eq[; m|ksx gSA ;g bruk iqjkuk vkSj eq[; gS fd dqN O;fDr ;g 

fo”okl djrs gSa fd lsye uke gh ^lY;k^ “kCn ls izkIr gS ftldk vFkZ gS 

tqykgk lewg ;k lsyS dk rfey vFkZ gS lkM+hA ,d eq[; /kjsyq m|ksx ds :i 

esa] ;g lsye ftyk ds dbZ “kgjksa rFkk xkaWoksa esa miyC/k gS tgkaW tqykgk lewg 

(nsokaxj ;k lsnj] taxkekj] dSdksy eqnfy;kj] lkfy;wj] lkSjk’Vªk vkSj lsfu;kj) 

ik;s tkrs gSaA 

17oha “krkCnh esa] baXySaM ds O;kikfjd daifu;kaW rFkk Qzkal us ,d nwljs ls 

lsye gSaMywe ohfoax lkefxz;ksa ds fy, dEihV djus yxsA Jh vuanjxe fiYyS] 

Qzsp ljdkj ds fy, ikafMpsjh f}Hkk’kh (vuqoknd) us vius nSfudh esa lsye 

tqykgksa ls cuk;s diMs dks [kjhnus esa Qzsap vkSj baXySaM ds chp Li/kkZ ds ckjs esa 

fy[ks gSA fczfV”k daiuh lsye tqykgksa ds lkFk dMywj] lmFkvkdkZV esa fLFkr 

vius QksVZ lsbUV lsVYesaV }kjk O;kikj fd;s rFkk Qzsap ikafMPpsjh ds lehi ls 

izpkyu fd;sA 

Qkafll cqpkeu us igpkuk fd dSdksyj vkSj tsnj us ^f”kykl^ (irys 

lQsn efLyu)] ^nqiV~Vk^ (eksVk o dqN le; LVªkbi f”kYykl) ] ^”kkseu^ 

116

Salem Kottai (Fort) and Shevapet the Market Centre. The northern part contains 

Hasthampatti, the Fairlands and the New Fairlands. The Indian Institute of Handloom 

Technology of the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India is located in Salem. 

The city includes many textile areas like Ammapettai, Annadhanapatti, 

Arisipalayam, Gugai, Hasthmaptti, Karunkalpatti, Kitchipalayam, Kumarasamypatti, 

Maravaneri, Netthimedu, Sanjivirayanpettai, Senkalpatti and Thathagapatti, which were 

all villages earlier. 

Salem is known in legends as Pavanasapuram (city that destroys sins) during the First 

Age (Kretha yuga). It became Pattiswaram during the Second Age (Dhvaparayuga), 

Nageswaram (Abode of the Lord of Cobras) during the Third Age (Thretha yuga), and 

Sukavanam (Parrot of Green Forest) during the present fourth Age (Kali Yuga). 


Salem Silk Textiles include the white silk dhothies, silk Angavastrams (upper 

cloth) and white silk shirtings. These white silk goods are traditionally used during 

marriages and other festivals as specialty items. 

They are produced from time immemorial by the local traditional weaving 

community called as “Sourashtra” Community. They live in large numbers in Salem 

Town and peri urban areas. 

In Tamil Nadu, Silk Sarees are generally produced in places like Kancheepuram, 

Thirubuvanam, Kumbakonam, Arni, etc. However, white silk textiles are unique only 

in Salem Region produced by the highly skilled weaving community in the area. 

The silk used in Salem White Silk goods is produced from Cross-Bred (CB) silk 

worm Cocoons which are either yellow or dull white in colour. For the warp the silk 

from these Cocoons is bleached, so that the silk yarn will be shining pure white in 

colour. The silk fibres from 7 – 8 silkworm Cocoons are reeled together to make it a 

strong fibre. This yarn is of 16 / 18 D or 18 / 20 D quality.Salem Silk Dhothy is well 

known for its White Variety with its lustre. 

117

(Åij ds tSls ij js”keh ckMZjksa ds lkFk)] ^lsyS^ (yky lwrh ckMZjksa ds lkFk 

xk


The Salem silk production is extended to the area as shown in the Map in page no 139. 

The main centers of the location where the Salem Silk is manufactured includes: 

1. Salem Town 2.Ammapet 3. Ponnamapet 4. Gugai 5. Shevapet 6. Valasaiyur 7 

Kondalampatty. 


The name of the city and district: 

The etymology of the word Salem has led to much ingenious speculations and 

controversy. The word has several competing meanings and origins. The chief among 

them are the following five terms: Cheram, Sailam, Salya, Seylai and Seelam. 

Handloom is an ancient industry of Salem, and is second in importance next only 

to agriculture. It is so ancient and important that some believe that the name of Salem 

itself was derived from the word "Salya" meaning weaver community or Selai meaning 

Sari in Tamil. As a major household industry, it exists in most of the towns and villages 

in Salem district where members of the weaving communities (Devangar or Sedars, 

Jangamar, Kaikola Mudaliar, Saliyur, Sowrashtra and Seniyar) are found. 

In the 17th century, the mercantile companies of England and France competed 

with each other to buy the products of the Salem Handloom Weaving. Sri 

Anandharangam Pillai, the Pondicherry dhvibashi (interpreter) for the French 

Government, described in his diary how the French competed with the British in buying 

textiles from Salem weavers. The British Company traded with the Salem weavers 

through their Fort Saint David Settlement in Cuddalore, South Arcot and the French 

operated from the nearly Pondicherry. 

Francis Buchaman found that Kaikolar and jedar made "Shillas" (thin white 

muslin), "duputtas" (coarse and sometimes stripes shillas), "shoman" (same as above but 

with silk borders), "salay" (thicker cotton cloth with red cotton borders), "romala" (large 

handkerchiefs or towels for tying round the head), and "parcala" (coarse plain cloth). 

119

lsye] enqjS] fr#usyosyh] fr#nquxj] fn.MqDdy vkSj ratkÅj ftykvksa esa 

forfjr gSA rfeyukMq esa mUgsa lkSjk’Vªk dgk tkrk gS] ftldk vFkZ gS xqtjkr 

jkT; ds lkSjk’Vª {ks= dh O;fDrA lkSjk’Vªk lewg ds fy, eq[; vk; dk Jksr 

gS cquukA muesa ls dqN vius gh ywe j[krs gSa vkSj cquusokys lkslkbfV;ksa ls 

;k futh O;kikfj;ksa ls ;kuZ ysrs gS vkSj iwfrZ fd;s x;s lkexzh nsrs gSaA blds 

fy, mUgsa cquk;s x;s enksa ds vuqlkj] tSls lkM+h] Voy] lk/kk diM+s vkSj /kksrh] 

Hkqxrku fd;k tkrk gS A 

fczfV”k rFkk Qzsap ds chp jkT; djus ls lacaf/kr >xMs vkSj le; le; 

ij ejkrk vkØe.k vDlj bl O;kikj ls var%{ksi fd;k vkSj diMksa dks 

;krk;kr ;k HkaMkj.k djrs oDr {kfr igqaWprk FkkA ,sls izdj.kksa esa] cquusokys ls 

vfxze dks okil djus ds fy, dgktkrk Fkk ;k {kfr igqaWps ;k [kk;s lkefxz;ksa 

dks fQj djds nsus ds fy, dgk tkrk FkkA bl dkj.k ls rFkk /kkxk] ywe vkfn 

ij ykxw fd;s x;s dbZ djksa ds dkj.k] daiuh vius fy, fof”k’V :i ls dims 

mRiknu djus ds fy, tqgkyksa dks fu;qDr djus ds laca/k esa dqN leL;k,aW 

mBhaA blfy, 1792 esa daiuh ds dCts esa fu;a=.k vkrs gh ,d ^fuos”k^ dh 

LFkkiuk dh xbZ Fkh vkSj ^n lsye ns”k^ dh cquus lacaf/kr dyk dks iw.kZ :i ls 

“kks’k.k djus ds fy, iz;Ru nksgjk x;kA 

bl ftyk esa yweksa dh la[;k ml le; vkRrwj] dkV~VqiqRrqj] ukeDdy] 

ijerh] lsye vkSj lsankeaxye esa forfjr gksdj dqy 1963 jgkA buesa ls] dqy 

598 daiuh dh lsok esa FksA bl la[;k rc rd c

Thomas Munro categorized the weaving castes of Salem and their specialities thus: 

1. Kaikolas 

Weave coarse long clothes, which go under different names according to their 

length selampore nedumalam (literally long hand) 72 cubits, kailis 36 (and) pachoram 18. 

2. Jadars 

Weave turbans, dhoties, parkallies, sadis, handkerchiefs and seals or muslins of 

all kinds. 

3. Manniwars Or Pariahs 

They weave the fine kinds of turbans and none of other clothes produced by the 

Jadars but all those made by the Kaikolas. The fineness of the textiles made by them is 

for superior than that produced by other castes of weavers. 

4. Saliars 

Weave the same clothes as Jadars in every respect and they only differ in caste. 

5. Cheniwars 

Weave the same clothes as Kaikolar and also the turbans. 

6. Saurashtra 

Saurashtra is one of the important immigrant communities of Tamil Nadu. As 

they are specialists in Pattunool (silk thread), they are called as Pattunulkaran (one who 

weaves textiles using silk thread). They are distributed mainly in Salem, Madurai, 

Tirunelveli, Virudhunagar, Dindugal and Thanjavur Districts. In Tamil Nadu they are 

called Saurashtras, meaning people of Saurashtra region of Gujarat state. The major 

source of income for the Saurashtra community is weaving. Some of them have their own 

looms and take yarn from the weavers societies or from private businessmen and supply 

the finished goods. For this they are paid according to the items woven, such as sari, 

towel, plain cloth and dhoti. 

121

i- mRiknu ds fy, rduhd 

Åij dgs vuqlkj] QykbZ “kV~y ywe rFkk Fkzs “kV~y ywe tSls nks rjg dh 

vkStkj mi;ksx fd;s tkrs gSaA QykbZ “kV~y yweksa dks lk/kkjr% lknk Cykmlk rFkk 

“kfVZax esa mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS tSls fdlh Hkh fMtkbu ds fcuk vkSj Fkzks “kV~y dks 

dksjoS izdkj ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS tSls n`< ckMZj fMtkbuA 

js”keh /kksrh dks mRiknu djus esa varfuZfgr Hkkx fuEu gS% 

1- Lys 

2- FkzsMy 

3- jhM 

4- ghYM 

5- n`< ckMZj fMokbt 

6- eksM che 

7- diMs jksyj 

8- fiuZ ds lkFk “kV~y 

9- yhLV jkWM 

10- ifjoV~Ve vkSj rIiS dV~VS 

11- fie ds lkFk pØ 

12- MkWch vkSj tsDoMZ e”khu 

ii- Hkkxksa dk ljs[ku % ywe dh cukoV 

eksM dksus ftl jhM ds tfj;s pyrs gS mls Lys ds lkFk lqwn`< fd;k tkrk 

gSA mls gkFk ls ekuoh; rkSj ij izpkyu fd;k tkrk gSA nksuksas FkzsMy dks ghYM ds 

lkFk tqMk;k tkrk gS vkSj yhl jkWMksa ds lkFk la;kstu ls] cquus dh izfØ;k ds 

nkSjku “kV~y dks vko”;d “ksfM~Max iznku djrk gSA “kV~Vy esa fize jgrk gS 

ftlij osQV ;kuZ dks yisVk tkrk gSA cqurs oDr vko”;d ruko dks iznku djus 

ds fy, okiZ che dks ewyr% fMtkbu fd;k x;k gS vkSj DykFk jksyj dks cquk;s x;s 

diMs dks ohy djus ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA “kV~y ,d vksj ls nwljs vksj 

pyrk gS vkSj ,d vksj ls nwljs vksj gkFk }kjk Qsadk tkrk gSA okiZokj /kkxk dks 

^,aM^ dgk tkrk gS tcfd osQVokj /kkxk dks ^fiDl^ dgk tkrk gSA tqykgksa }kjk 

mi;ksfxr jhM dks ckaWl ydMh ls mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA 

122

The power struggle between the British and the French and the occasional Maratta 

invasions often interfered with this trade and cloth was damaged in transport or storage. 

In such cases, the weavers were asked to pay back the advances or make good the lost or 

damaged portion. Because of this and also the variety of taxes levied on thread, loom, 

etc., the company faced certain problems in engaging the weavers to produce cloth 

exclusively for it. Therefore an "investment" was established as soon as the area came 

under the control of the company in 1792 and efforts were redoubled to exploit fully the 

weaving craft of "the Salem Country". 

The number of looms in the district at that time was 1963 distributed among 

Atthur, Kattuputthur, Namakkal, Paramathi, Salem and Sendhamangalam. Of this, a total 

of 598 were in the service of the company. The number probably kept increasing until the 

insensitive methods adopted by the commercial residency made the "investment" again 

unpopular. The investment itself ceased with the departure of JM Heath in 1825 


The chief tools used in this Industry are Fly shuttle and Throw Shuttle.In Salem the bulk 

of Silk Dhothies are woven on fly shuttle looms. The texture in silk fabrics is tight and 

close as that of Lungies. This type of texture needs a special requisite skill and needs 

patience to produce fabrics of high picks on Fly shuttle loom and Throw shuttle for 

producing solid Border design. 

i. Techniques Of Production 

Equipment and Tools: 

As mentioned above, 2 types of tools used are Fly shuttle looms and 

Throw shuttle looms. Fly shuttle looms are normally engaged in weaving plain blouses 

and shirting pieces i.e. without any design, and Throw shuttle for producing Korvai 

Variety i.e. Solid Border design. 

123

iii- dPpk lkexzh 

/kksrh rFkk js”keh /kkxk] tjh vkSj fufeyh /kkxk tks yseu vkjat jax ds lkFk 

MkbZ fd;s gq, js”keh /kkxk gS mRiknu esa mi;ksfxr dPpk lkexzh 

1- js”keh /kkxk dks “kjhj ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS tSls okiZ vkSj 

osQ~V 

2- tjh dks ckMZj vkSj iYyq ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS ftls {ks=h; 

Hkk’kk esa dach dgrs gS 

3- fufeyh (jaxhu js”ke ;kuZ) dks ckMZj ds fy, tjh ds lkFk egRoiw.kZ 

izHkko ikus ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA 

iv- tjh 

242 xzke otu dh ,d ekdZ esa 2200 ls 2400 xt dh 4 ckWfcu miyC/k gSA 

js”keh /kkxk dks xqIr j[kus ds fy, Qkbyspj jhMM dPpk js”ke ds Åij pkSjl 

fd;s x;s flYoj dks yisVk tkrk gSA js”keh /kksrh dh mRiknu ds mi;ksfxr lksus 

ls flYoj /kkxk dks ysi fd;k tkrk gSA rfeyukMq tjh fyV] tks dkaWphiqje esa 

dk;Z”khy jkT; m+|e] dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbfV;ksa dks tjh vkiwfrZ djrk gSA 

bl tjh esa fuEu miyC/k gS 

flYoj 57-00 izfr”kr 

js”ke 24-00 izfr”kr 

lksuk 0-60 izfr”kr 

dkWij 18-40 izfr”kr 

tjh xq.krk dk rfeyukMq tjh fyV] dkaWphiqje }kjk ijh{k.k fd;k tkrk gS 

tks rfeyukMq ljdkj dk ,d m|e gSA vxj bl ijh{k.k esa Åij fn;s x;s /kkrqvksa 

dh deh ik tkrh gS rks] tjh dks vLohd`r fd;k tkrk gS vkSj mRikndksa dks okil 

fd;k tkrk gSA lgh fo’k;oLrq ds lkFk tjh ek= dks js”ke lkexzh cukus ds fy, 

mi;ksx fd;k tk,xkA 

124

The parts that are involved for producing Silk Dhoties are 

1. Slay 

2. Treadle 

3. Reed 

4. Healds 

5. Solid Border device 

6. Warp beam 

7. Cloth Roller 

8. Shuttle with Pirn 

9. Lease rods 

10. Parivattam and Tappal Kattai 

11. Charka with Pirn 

12. Dobby & Jacquard Machine 

ii. Alignment of the Parts: Structure of the Loom 

The reed through which the warp ends passes is fixed to the Slay. It is manually 

operated by hand. The two treadles are attached to the healds and in conjunction with the 

lease rods provide the necessary shedding for the shuttle to pass through in the process of 

weaving. The shuttle contains the prim on which the weft yarn is wound. The warp beam 

is primarily designed to provide the necessary tension while weaving and the cloth roller 

is used to veel the cloth woven. The shuttle travels to and fro and is thrown by hand from 

one end to the other end. The warpwise threads are called "ends" while the weftwise 

threads are known as "picks". The reeds used by weavers are manufactured out of 

bamboo sticks at Salem. The steel reed are not used because of corrosion. 

iii. Raw Materials 

Raw Materials used in the manufacturing process of Dhoties are Silk thread, Zari 

and Nimili thread which is also a silk thread dyed with lemon orange colour. 

125

mRiknu izfØ;k 

1- okiZ 

rS;kj okiZ dks rfeyukMq ljdkj ds gSaMywe rFkk VsDLVkby foHkkx ds 

VsuflYd ls [kjhnk tk,xkA okiZ lhch jkW flYd ek= gSA tqykgk }kjk jkWflYd dk 

MhtfEeax fd;k tkrk gS vkSj fQj cqukus ds fy, mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA 

lsye lQsn js”keh lkefxz;ksa esa mi;ksfxr js”ke lad.k (lhch) js”ke okeZ 

ddwu ls mRikfnr gS] tks ;k rks ihys jax ds gksrs gS ;k /kaq/kyk lQsn gksrs gSA 

eqMko ds fy, bu ddwu ls js”ke dks Cyhp fd;k tkrk gS rkfd ;g js”keh ;kuZ 

“kqn~/k lQsn jax esa pedsaxsA mi;qZDr Msfy;j xq.krk ds lkFk nks js”keh /kkxksa dks 

,dlkFk ,saBk tk,xk rkfd ;kuZ dh “kfDr dks c

iv. Zari 

1. Silk thread is used for body i.e. Warp and Weft 

2. Zari is used for Border and Pallu locally termed as Kambi 

3. Nimili (coloured silk yarn) is used for Border with Zari for prominent 

effect. 

One marc weighing 242 grams contains 5 bobbins with a length of 2200 to 2400 

yards. Flattened Silver is coiled round filature reeded raw silk conceal the silk thread. 

This silver thread is coated with gold used in the production of silk Dhoties. Tamil Nadu 

Zari Ltd., a state owned unit functioning at Kanchipuram, supply the zari to Co-operative 

Societies. 

The Zari contains : 

Silver : 57.00% 

Silk : 24.00% 

Gold : 0.60% 

Copper : 18.40% 

The Zari quality is tested by the Tamil Nadu Zari Ltd, Kancheepuram, a unit of 

Government of Tamil Nadu. If the test results indicate lower contents of the above 

metals, the Zari will be rejected and returned to the manufacturers. Only the Zari with 

correct contents will be used in making the Silk Products. 

Manufacturing Process 

1. Warp 

The ready warp is purchased from Tansilk of the Department of Handlooms and 

Textiles, Government of TamilNadu. The warp is CB rawsilk only. The rawsilk is 

degummed by weavers and then used for weaving. 

127

3- Cyhfpax 

js”ke ;kuZ dks Cyhp djus ds fy, fuEu jlk;u dk mi;ksx fd;k tkrk gS 

1- lksMk jk[k & 0-080 xzke 

2- lksfM;e gkbMªks lYQsV & 0-030 xzke 

3- MCY;wth Vhuksiky & 0-015 xzke 

4- tehu dh ikuh & 20 fyVj 

mi;qZDr lHkh jlk;uksa dks ikuh esa fi/kyk tkrk gS ikuh dks 15 feuV rd 

xje fd;k tkrk gSaA ,d ckaWl ydMh dks mi;ksx djrs mls yxkrkj ?kqek;k tkrk 

gSA bl izfdz;k yxHkx 6 ?kaVs ysrk gSA 

6 ?kaVs ds ckn] js”ke ;kuZdks gVk;k tkrk gS vkSj izfr fdyksxzke js”ke ds 

fy, 20 fyVj lY;w”kUk esa 2 ckj lkQ fd;k tkrk gSA mlds ckn 50 ,e,y 

vflfVd vfey dks ikuh esa tksMk tkrk gS vkSj ?kqek;k tkrk gS rkfd js”ke ;kuZ 

lQsn jax dk gks tk;saA js”ke ;kuZ dks fQj ,d ckj ikuh ls lkQ fd;k tkrk gSA 

bl lkQ fd;s x;sA 

;s ikuh dks blds fy, igys gh mi;skfxr x

The Silk used in Salem White Silk goods is produced from cross Breed Silk Worm 

Cocoons, which are either yellow or dull white in colour. For the warp the silk from 

these cocoons is bleached, so that the silk yarn will be shining pure white in colour. 

Two such silk threads with the above Denier quality will be twisted together for 

increased strength of the yarn. This again is unique to the Salem White Silk goods. This 

is the basic difference from the silk made for weaving sarees in other places in Tamil 

Nadu State. 

2. Degumming 

Each warp or weft yarn weighs about one pound (approximately 0.5 kg). This 

weight is known as "THADA”. Thadas are immersed in a copper vessel containing cold 

water for three to five minutes. They are then squeezed and inserted into two bamboo 

poles of size 3' x 11½'. In the meantime, about 4 gallons of water are heated to boiling 

point in a copper pot of diameter 2’ and height 31/2’. One bar of USNA SOAP weighing 

about 600 grams is dissolved in the boiling water. This soap is made locally with lime 

and caustic soda, coconut oil and resin. The Thadas are immersed in this bath and 

constantly turned at intervals of 2 to 3 minutes. While turning the Thadas care is taken to 

ensure that they do not come into contact with the sides of the vessel unless there is 

water. After 15 minutes, it is found that the silk has a wavy appearance, which indicates 

that the process of degumming is complete. The yarn is then squeezed and rinsed thrice in 

three separate vessels. Each vessel containing four to five gallons of water. The water 

used at Salem city possess good quality of impacting lustre to raw silk. The degumming 

is be disposed off in the open area in a pit with a size of 1 mtr diameter filled with sand 

and jally (granite pebbles). 

3. Bleaching 

For bleaching Silk Yarn the following chemicals are used: 

1. Soda ash – 0.080 gm 

2. Sodium Hydro sulphate – 0.030 gm 

129

,d O;fDr ,d vksj dksus dks gVkrs gq, [kMs gksrs gS] okiZ dks vius nks ckgksa 

esa yisVk nsrs gS rkfd ;g ,d ywi cukrk gS tc rd fd og 2@3 Hkkx rd 

igqaWprk gSA mlds ckn og ywi fd;s x;s okiZ dks gVkrk gS vkSj tc vU; vksj rd 

igqaprk gS rks ;kuZ dks gSad ds :i esa fV~oLV djrk gSA 

4- ihflax 

ywe dsa jhM ckaWl ls cuk gqvk gSA jhM dk otu gS 54^ gSA ghYM ds Åij 

rFkk uhps Hkkx esa nks ckaWl ydfM;kaW gksrs gSA budk vk;ke jhM ds tSls gksrs gSA 

vU; Hkkx gS ^iqful^ ;k “ksfM~Max jkWM ftUgsa ghy ls 6^^ nwjh ij j[kk tkrk gSA ywe 

ij igys gh cquk;s x;s /kksrh ds iqjkus ;kuZ ds dqN Hkkx] /kksrh dks dkV fn;s tkus 

ds ckn oSls gh jgrk gSA bl Lrj ds nkSjku] ubZ :i ls rS;kj fd;s x;s izR;sd 

;kuZ ;k /kkxk dks] fiNys /kksrh ds lacaf/kr /kkxk ds lkFk layXu fd;k tkrk gSA 

iqful ;k “ksfM~Max jkWM u;s okiZ esas tqMs tkus ds igys iqjkus okiZ dh O;fDrxr /kkxk 

dks vyx djus esa lgk;rk djrk gSA ;g ,d laosnu”khy rFkk /khjs izfØ;k gS 

vkSj blds fy, tqykgs esa mRre {kerk rFkk “kkafr dh vko”;drk gksrh gSA bl 

izfØ;k vkSlre tqykgs ds O;fDrxr {kerk ij vk/kkfjr djds 8 ls 12 ?kaVs rd 

ysrk gS A 

5- vYyqfifMFky (okiZ dh rS;kjh) 

iqjkus okiZ ds “ks’k ds lkFk tqMk;s x;s u;s okiZ dks fQj vxys izfØ;k ds 

fy, lMdksa esa foLrkj fd;k tkrk gS ftls {ks=h; “kCnksa esa vyqfifMFky dgk tkrk 

gS rkfd ;g lqfuf”pr dj ldsa fd lHkh dksus le gS vkSj my>k ugha gSA VwVs 

dksus] vxj dqN gks rks mls Hkh Bhd fd;k tk,xkA bl fLFkfr esa gh tqykgk ghyksa 

vkSj jhM dks vkxs nckrk gS rkfd u;s okiZ ds dksus dks jhM rFkk ghYM ds vUnj ys 

vkldsaA okiZ ds nksuksa vksj nks O;fDr [kMs gksaxs vkSj lQsn dikl /kkxk ds lkFk 12 

fiDl cqukus ds fy, ghYM dks izpkyu djsaxsA os Fkzks “kV~y dks u;s okiZ ds bl 

vksj ls ml vksj dh vksj esfuiqysV djsaxs rkfd jhM okiZ ls ckgj u pys tk,aWA 

bl izpkyu ds var esa] ookiZ dks vkSj ,d ckj jksy fd;k tkrk gS vkSj ywe ij 

yk;k tkrk gS tgkaW jhM dks ywe ds Dys ds lkFk lqn`< fd;k tkrk gSA bl 

izpkyu ds fy, yxHkx 2 yxrk gSA rS;kjh vc iwfrZ gks x;h gS vkSj okLrfod 

cqukuk vc “kq: gksxhA bl izfØ;k dks lqcg ds le; gh fd;k tkrk gS tc BaMk 

gSA 

130

3. Ground water – 20 litre 

All the above chemicals are dissolved in water. The water is boiled for 15 minutes. A 

bamboo pole is used to rotate continuously. This process takes nearly 6 hours. 

After 6 hours silk yarn is removed and 2 times rinsed in 20 lit of the solution per kg of 

silk. After that 50 ml Acetic Acid is added in water and continued rotating the silk to 

make the silk yarn bright white in colour. The silk yarn is again rinsed in water three 

times. The rinsed water is disposed off in the open places in pits already used for the 

purpose. About 2 to 3 kg of silk yarn is used at a time per loom and this process is done 

one time in a month. There is no pollution problem in this process. 

These works are done traditionally by the weavers. There is no disease or skin afflictions 

to the people who undertake bleaching. 

4. Dressing 

The weaver who receives the warp (containing 6000 Ends) proceeds as follows: 

The warp is given a dressing by stretching it out in the open. For this purpose, 

stout bamboo poles are taken, fixed cross-wise and firmly secured by a rope passing over 

a peg firmly fixed to the ground. The warp is then stretched over these bamboos by 

looping them at each end. Dust and dirt are removed from the threads, and broken ends 

are mended. Afterwards the warping is removed as follows: 

One-person stands at one side removing the ends, rolls the warp round his two 

arms so that it forms loop until he reaches two thirds the way. Afterwards, he removes the 

looped warp and proceeds to twist the yarn into a hank when he reaches the other side. 

131

6- okiZ dks ywe rd ys tkuk 

my>u gksus ls jksdus ds fy, ;kuZ dks ywe ij 18 lsXesaV esa foHkkftr fd;k 

tkrk gS A mldh ,d dksus dks diMs che (iM eje) ls lqn`< fd;k tkrk gS vkSj 

nwljs dksus dks okiZ che (vksMq dV~Vs) ls lqn`< fd;k tkrk gSA diMs che rFkk okiZ 

che ds chp nwjh 12 QqV gSA lkekU; 4 xt /kksrh ds fy,] okiZ dks bl nwjh rd 

foLrkj fd;k tkrk gS rkfd 3 xt dh /kksrh cquk ldsaA bl yackbZ rd cqukus ds 

ckn] okiZ dks fQj ,d ckj foLrkj djuk gS rkfd 4 xt /kksrh cuk ldsaA vxj 

nwjh 12 QqV ls de gS rks tqykgk mls fQj foLrkj fd;s fcuk 3 xt cquk ugha 

ik,xkA blfy, mUgsa bls vkSj ,d ckj foLrkj djuk iMsxk ,d izfØ;k tks vf/kd 

nq[knk;d gks ldrk gSA foLrkj fd;s x;s okiZ dh nwjh dks ,slk gksuk pkfg, fd 

;g cqukrs oDr ncko dks lqfuf”pr djsa ldsa vkSj Lys dh ljy izpkyu ds fy, 

i;kZIr jguk gSA 

7- cqukuk 

ifjoV~Ve dh lgk;rk ds lkFk fizu ij yisVs x;s js”ke ;kuZ 3 ;k 4 IykbZ 

;kuZ rd gks ldrk gS vkSj dyQ ij Mqck;k tkrk gSA bl fizu dks “kV~y esa bUlVZ 

fd;k tkrk gS vkSj tqykgk ywe dh nk;kaW VªªsMy dks uhps dh vksj nckrk gS rkfd 

okiZ dh vko”;d ”ksfM~Max izkIr dj ldsa] “kV~y dks nk,aW vksj Qsasdrk gS vkSj ck,aW 

vksj Qsadrk gS vkSj fid dks ekjrk gSA nk;kaW VªsMy dks fjyht fd;k tkrk gS vkSj 

,d ckj ck;kaW FkzsMy dks uhps dh vksj nck;k tkrk gS rkfd “ksfM~Max izkIr dj ldsas 

vkSj tqykgk vc FkzsMy dks ck,aW vksj ls nk,aW vksj Qsadrk gSA nks fid dks ,sls cquk;k 

tkrk gSA bl le; Vk;e ckMZj fMtkbu dks Hkh] fMtkbu lsVvi ds vuqlkj ywe 

ij tsDoMZ dks layXu djds mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA 

bl izdkj ds /kksrh] eqaFkh ;k iYyq dks cqurs oDr] tjh ftls {ks=h; Hkk’kk esa 

dach dgk tkrk gS dks cquk;k tkrk gSA eqaFkh ds fy, dksbZ fof”k’V fMtkbu ugha 

gSA ;g ckMZj fMtkbu ds vuqlkj 5 ;k 10 ckj cquk;s x;s tjh /kkxk ek= gSA 

ckMZj esa Lo;a tjh vkSj js”ke ;kuZ ftls fufeyh /kkxk dgrs gS (4 tjh ;kuZ 

dks ,d dqfyxS dgrs gS) miyC/k gSaA cqukus ds ckn rFkk diMs jksyj ij /kksrh dks 

jksy djus ds igys] xe dks /kksrh ij iz;ksx djrs gSA fQj mls iw.kZ :i ls lw[kk 

tkrk gS vkSj diMs jksyj ij jksy fd;k tkrk gsA bl izfdz;k fu;fEr :i ls tkjh 

jgsxhA 

132

5. Piecing 

The reeds in the loom are made of bamboo. The size of reed is 54’. The healds 

consist of two bamboo poles at the top and two at the bottom. The dimensions of these 

are similar to the reeds. The other parts are the "Punis" or the shedding rods placed at a 

distance of 6" from the heels. Certain portions of the old yarn of the Dhothy already 

woven on the loom remains behind after the Dhothy has been cut out. During this stage 

each yarn or thread of the newly prepared warp is attached to the corresponding thread of 

the previous Dhothy. The Punis or shedding rods assist in separating the individual 

threads of the old warp before it is joined to the new warp. This is a delicate and slow 

process and requires great skill and patience on the part of the weaver. This process takes 

anything between 8 to 12 hours depending on the individual’s ability of an average 

weaver. 

6. Allupiditthal (Preparation of Warp) 

The new warp which has been joined to the remnants of the old warp is again 

stretched in the streets for the next process known locally as Allupiditthal i.e., to ensure 

that all ends are even and are not tangled. Broken ends, if any, are also mended. It is at 

this stage that the weaver pushes forward the heals and the reed to as to bring the end of 

the new warp within the reed and healds. Two persons stand on either side of the warp 

and operate the healds to weave 12 picks with white cotton thread. They manipulate the 

throw shuttle from end to end of the new warp so that the reed may not slip out of the 

warp. At the end of this operation, the warp is once again rolled and brought to the loom 

where the reed is fixed to the clay of the loom. This operation takes about two hours. The 

preparation is now complete and the actual weaving operation commences. This process 

is done during morning time only, when it is cool. 

133


lsye dh js”ke /kksfr;kaW mudh ped rFkk lQsnh rFkk mudh rduhdh 

Js’Brk vkSj ckMZj fMtkbu esa uohurk ds fy, U;k;laxr :i ls izfln~/k gSA 

tqykgk }kjk cqukus ds fy, ikjaifjd rjhds viuk;s tkus ij Hkh] os vf/keku es 

ifjorZu rFkk xzkgdksa dh okaNk ds lkFk dne dne c

7. Getting the Warp to the Loom 

The yarn is divided on the loom in to 18 segments to avoid tangling. One end of it 

is fixed to the cloth beam (Pada maram) and the other end to warp beam (Oodu kattai). 

The distance between the cloth beam and the warp beam is 12 ft. For a normal 4 yards 

Dhothy, the warp has to be stretched to this distance in order to weave 3 yards of the 

dhothy. After weaving this length the warp has to be stretched once again to make a 4 

yards saree. If the distance is less than 12 feet, the Weaver cannot weave three yards 

without stretching it again. Hence he may have to stretch it more than once, a process, 

which is likely to be rather cumbersome. The length of the stretched warp should be such 

as to ensure tension while weaving and should be adequate enough for the free operation 

of the slay. 

8. Weaving 

The silk yarn wound on prin with the help of parivattam may be 3 or 4-ply yarn 

and immersed on rice starch. This prin is inserted into the shuttle and the weaver presses 

down the right treadle of the loom to obtain the necessary shedding of the warp, throws 

the shuttle from the right hand side, to the left hand side and the pick is beaten. The right 

treadle is released and the left treadle pressed down to once again to obtain the shedding 

and the weaver now throws the shuttle from the left to the right. Two picks are thus 

woven in this manner. In the mean time border design is also produced by attaching the 

jacquard on the loom according to the design setup. 

While weaving this type of dhothy, munthi or pallu, the Zari locally named as 

kambi is woven. There is no specific design for this munthi. It is only Zari thread woven 

5 to 10 times according to border design. 

The border itself contains zari and silk yarn called Nimili thread (4 zari yarn 

called one kuligai). After weaving and before rolling the dhothy on cloth roller, gum is 

applied on dhothy. Then it is dried completely and rolled on cloth roller. This process 

will continue regularly. 

135

ds- vuks[kkiu 

lsye js”ke Qkbcj dk eq[; vkd’kZ.k gS mldh pedA MhxfEeax ds fy, 

mi;ksfxr ikuh esa dqN xq.k/keZ gksrs gS rkfd js”ke esa ped dk izHkko Mky ldsaA 

lsye “kgj esa mi;ksfxr ikuh esa fo”ks’k xq.krk miyC/k gS ftlls fd dPpk js”ke 

esa ped izHkkfor fd;k tk, vkSj ;gh lQsnh ds fy, ,d dkj.k gks ldrk gS rFkk 

lsye esa n`< cqfu;kn j[kusokys js”keh /kksrh dh ped ds fy, HkhA ckMZj esa tjh 

rFkk dach ds :i esa iYyw Hkh vuks[kh gSA {ks=h; tqykgs esa] lsye lQsn js”ke 

/kksrh] vaxoL=e rFkk “kfVZax tSls vuks[kh js”ke lkexzh cukus dh {kerk miyC/k gSa 

,y- ijh{k.k ckWMh 

lsye osuiV~Vq dgs tkusokys lsye flYd dh xq.krk dks lqfuf”pr djus 

rFkk lsye osuiV~Vq dgs tkusokys lsye flYd dh xq.krk dks fu;a=.k esa j[kus ds 

fy,] dsUnz rFkk jkT; ljdkjh laxBuksa rFkk m|ksxksa dks izfrfuf/kRo djusokys 10 

(nl) O;fDr lfEefyr ,d Lok;Rr xq.krk fu;a=.k ckWMh dk gSMywe o VsDLVkby 

foHkkx] rfeyukMq ljdkj ls LFkkfir fd;k x;kA 

136

9. Border Designs 

The silk Dhothies of Salem are justly famed for their lustre and whiteness and 

their technical excellence and novelty of border design. Eventhough the traditional 

methods of weaving are adopted by the weavers, they have tried to keep pace with the 

changes in preferences and tastes of consumers. It is precisely because of this far-sighted 

policy that the Silk Dhothies of Salem have a steady demand and are able to cater to all 

varieties of tastes of both rich and middle class families. On marriage occasions all are 

keen to wear this silk Dhothy only. The size of border is 2" - 6". The most popular 

designs are given below: 

1. Nagachattai 

2. Kammal 

3. Honey Comb 

4. Wavy type 

5. LIC Design 

6. Wheat 

7. Diamond with Roja 

8. Kodi Border Design 

9. Mavilai Design 

10. Muthu with Gold Pettu 

Product Quality Control: 

To get the high quality Salem Venpattu, each registered Co-operative Society is having 

one or two appraisers to check the silk cloth in all the following quality attributes: 

1. Length and width of dhothies, angavastrams and shirting pieces. 

2. Warp ends and weft picks. 

3. Border ends of dhothies, and angavastrams. 

4. Clean folding. 

137

For the quality assurance of the pure silk used in the production of the quality 

parameters adopted for the “Silk Mark” by the Central Silk Board were followed. 

They included mainly a simple flame test, and a microscopic test to ascertain the 

purity of the fabric. It gives the results in seconds. If the fabric burns slowly leaving a 

black residue and smells like burnt hair, it is pure silk. 


The chief attraction of the Salem silk fabric is its lustre. The water used for degumming 

has certain properties in order to impact lustre to silk. The water used at Salem city 

possess this unique quality of impacting lustre to raw silk and this may be one of the 

reasons for the whiteness and shining of Silk Dhothy which has taken firm root in Salem. 

The zari in the border and pallu in the form of kambi is also unique. The local weavers 

have the skill to produce such unique silk products, namely, Salem White Silk Dhothies, 

Angavastrams and Shirtings. 


A Quality Control body is being established by Department of Handlooms & Textiles, 

Government of Tamil Nadu, which is autonomous and consists of not less than ten 

members representing Central & State Government Organizations and Industries in order 

to control the quality and to maintain the quality of Salem Silks Known as Salem 

Venpattu. 

138

139

th vkbZ vkosnu la- 93 


Hkkjr }kjk dksoS dksjk dikl lkMh;ksa ds jftLVj ds Hkkx , esa] VsDLVkby vkSj 

VSdLVkby lkexzh rFkk lkM+h vkSj :eky Qkfyax lfEefyr diMs Øe”k% oxZ 24] 

25 esa iMusokys lkfM+;kaW lfEefyr gS ds laca/k esa] vkosnu la-93 ds v/khu iathdj.k 

ds fy, vkosnu fd;k tkrk gS] dks lkefxz;ksa dk HkkSxksfyd ladsr (iathdj.k o 

lqj{kk) vf/kfu;e 1999 ds /kkjk 13 mi/kkjk 1 ds v/khu Lohd`r foKkfir fd;k 

tkrk gSA 



izfrfuf/k 


vf/koDrk 

6 ykW psEcj 





psUuS 108 

HkkSxksfyd ladsr % dksoS dksjk dikl lkfM+;kaW 




140



Nadu. Kuralagam, (II Floor), Chennai - 600 108 India for registration in Part A of the 

register of KOVAI KORA COTTON SAREES” under Application No 93 in respect of 

Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing including Sarees falling in Class 24, and 25 

respectively is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of 






Advocate 



Chennai – 600104 

Address : Department of Handlooms and Textiles, 




Geographical Indication : KOVAI KORA COTTON SAREES 


Goods : Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing 

including Sarees 

141






psUuS 600 108 

¼x½ O;fDr@mRiknd@laxBu@izf/kdkj % laxBu@ izkf/kdj.k 

la?k dh lwph 

Øe 

la[k;k 

iathdj.k 

la[;k 

cqudj lgdkjh lekt 

dk uke 

1 ds 1317 vyaaxksEcw nsoaxk MCY;w-lh- 

,l 

2 lh,p 119 vyaxksEcw gSaMywe MCY;w-lh- 

,l 

irk 

eSu jksM+] vyaxksEcw] 

eSV~Vqiky;e rkyqd] 

fl#eqxb & 641302 

rUuhj iaMy] vyaxksEcw ¼}kjk½ 

fl#eqxb & 641302 

3 lh ,p 79 vyaxksEcw Jh lkSmns”ojh eSau jksM+] vyaxksEcw eSV~Vqiky;e 

rkyqd] fl#eqxM & 641353 

4 lh 

118 

,p 

vEeu exfyj MCY;w lh 

,l 

5 ds 1453 vauwj dqekjiky;e 

dkek{kh vEeu 

142 

vkouk'kh jksM+] vUuwj 

dks;EcVwj & 641602 

vauwj] vkouk'kh & 6411603






Chennai - 600 108 



Authority : Organization / authority 

S.NO. 

REG. 

NO. 

NAME OF THE WEAVERS 

CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY 

ADDRESS 

1 K.1317 Alangombu Devanga WCS Main Road, Alangombu, 

2 CH. 119 Alangombu Handloom WCS 

Mettupalayam Taluk, 

Sirumugai – 641 302. 

Thanneer Panthal, 

Alangombu (Via) 


3 CH. 79 Alangombu Sri Sowdeswari Main Road, Alangombu, 

4 CH. 118 Amman Magalir WCS 



Avanashi Road,Annur, 

Coimbatore – 641 653 

5 K. 1453 Annur Kumarapalayam Kamatchi Annur, 

Amman 

Avanashi – 641 603. 

6 CH.91 Arulmigu Kamatchiamman WCS 5/124 – A 

Pichampalayam Pudur, 

P.N. Road, Sri Nagar, 

Tirupur – 641 603. 

143

6 lh ,p 91 vjyfexq dkek{khvEeu 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

7 lh ,p 9 vfouk'kh lkSmMefcxb 

MCY;w lh ,l 

8 lh ,p 77 Hkxrwj Jh lkSmns'kojh 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

9 lh ,p 115 csykiky;e 

lkSmns'kojh 

Jh 

MCY;w lh ,l 

10 lh ,p 44 ,ykiky;e Jh lkmns'kojh 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

11 lh ,l 32 x.kifriky;e MCY;w lh 

,l 

12 Lkh- 

116 

,p- 

bYywiky;e MCY;w- lh- 

,l 

13 ds- 1745 dkek{khvEeu MCY;w lh 

,l 

144 

5@124 ^,* fiNeiky;e iqnwj] 

ih-,u- jksM] Jh uxj] 

fr#iwj & 641603 

64] vUcyxu x.ks'kiqje 

vkouk'kh & 641654 

U;w jksM+] fl#eqxb ¼}kjk½ 

eSV~Vqiky;e] 

fl#eqxb & 641302 

csykiky;e iksLV] 299] 

izkbejh dks vkijsfVd cSad 

dkEiyDl] vUuwj jksM] 

fl#eqxb & 641302 

,ykiky;e isLV] iksxywj 

¼}kjk½ dks;EcVqj & 641697 

10] ds- ds- vkj- ysvkÅV] 

eaxye jksM] 

fr#iqj & 641604 

3@99] iYyFkksre] fl#eqxb] 


15] osyeiky;e] 

fr#iqj & 641604

7 CH.9 Avinashi Sowdambigai WCS 64, Anbazhan 

8 CH.77 Bagathur Sri Sowdeswari 

Ganeshapuram 

Avanashi – 641 654. 

New Road, Srimugai (Via) 

WCS 

Mettupalayam, 


9 CH.115 Bellapalayam Sri Bellapalayam Post, 299, 

Sowdeswari WCS 

Primary Co-operative Bank 

Complex, Annur Road, 

10 CH.44 


Ellapalayam Sri Sowdeswari Ellapalayam Post, 

WCS 

Pogalur (Via) 

Coimbatore – 641 697. 

11 CH.32 Ganapathipalayam WCS 10, K.R.R. Layout, 

Mangalam Road, 

Tirupur – 641 604. 

12 CH.116 Illupalayam WCS 3/99,Pazhathottam, Sirumugai, 


13 K.1745 Kamatchiamman WCS 15, Velampalayam 

Tirupur – 641 604. 

14 CH.76 Kanjampatti SRS 1/79, Kanjampatti post 

Pollachi Taluk – 642 001. 

15 CH.162 Kembanayakanpalayam SRS Kembanaickenpalayam 

Avanashi Taluk, 


Post, 

16 CH.73 Kollupalayam SRS Kollupalayam, 

Thippampatti Road, 

Pollachi – 642 107. 

17 CH.31 Kovilvazhi WCS 60, Feet Road, 

Dharapuram Road, D.S.K. 

Nagar (Near Govt.Hospital) 

Tirupur – 641 608. 

145

14 lh- ,p- 

76 

15 Lkh- 

162 

,p- 

dateiV~Vh MCY;w- lh- ,l 1@79] dateiV~Vh iksLV] 

dsEHkuk;duiky;e 

,l- vkj- #l 

iksYykph rkyqd & 642001 

dsEHkuk;duiky;e iksLV] 

vkouk;kh rkyqd] 

dks;EcVqj & 641697 

16 lh ,p 73 dksYywiky;e ,l vkj ,l dksYywiky;e] fFkIieiV~Vh 

jksM] iksYykph & 642107 

17 lh ,p 31 dksfoYyoyh MCY;w-lh-,l 60] QhV jksM] /kkjkiqje jksM] 

18 lh 

156 

,p 

19 lh ,p 

128 

dqykdkiky;e vfjuj 

v..kk 

vkse f'ko'fDr gSaMywe 

MCY;w lh ,l 

146 

Mh-,l-ds-uxj 

¼ljdkjh vLirky ds ikl½] 

fr#iqj & 641608 

jktk LVªhV] dqykdkiky;e] 

iyuhxksm/kuiqnwj iksLV] 

iksYykph & rkyqd] 


osYyhdqIieiky;e] vUuwj jksM] 

dks;EcVqj & 641302

18 CH.156 Kullakapalayam Aringar Raja Street, Kullakapalayam 

Anna 

Palanigoundanpudur Post, 

Pollachi Taluk, 


19 CH.128 Om Sivasakthi Handloom Vellikuppampalayam, 

WCS 

Annur Road, 


20 K.894 Ondipudur Handloom WCS Krishna Naidu Street, 

Ondipudur Post, 


21 CH.98 Peraringar Anna WCS 8/320, Pudhayal Street 

Pandian Nagar, 

P.N. Road, Tirupur – 2. 

22 CH.86 Perunthalaivar Kamarajar Pandian Nagar, 

Industiral WCS 

Neruperachal,P.N. Road, 

Tirupur – 641 602. 

23 AA 75 Poolavadi WCS Poolavadi Post 

Udumalpet – 642 206. 

24 CH.121 Sakthi Sowdeswari Amman 9/8, Vadavalli Road, 

Edayarpalayam Post, 


25 K.1136 Seeranaickenpalayam WCS 170, Nethaji Road, 

Seeranaickenpalayam 


26 K.1744 Semmandampalayam WCS Semmandampalayam Post, 

Somanur Via, 

Palladam – 641 668. 

27 CH.168 Sennampalayam Magalir 11/99, Annur Road, 


28 CH.105 Sennampalayam SRS 11/99, Annur Road, 


147

20 ds 894 vksUMhiqj gSaMywe 

MCY;w lh ,l 

21 lh ,p 98 isjkjhuxj v..kk 

MCY;w lh ,l 

22 lh ,p 86 is#ury;oj dkejktj 

baMfLVª;y MCY;w- lh- ,l 

Ñ".k uk;Mq LVªhV vksUMhiqj 

iksLV] dks;EcVqj & 641016 

8@320] iqn;y LVªhV] 

ikafM;y uxj] 

ih-,u-jksM] fr#iqj & 2 

23 , , 75 iwyvkoMh MCY;w- lh- ,l iwyvkoMh iksLV 

24 Lkh- 

121 

,p- 

ikafM;u uxj] us#isjkpy] ih- 

,u-jksM] fr#iqj & 641602 

mMqeyisV & 642206 

'kfDr lkSmns'kojh vEeu 4@8 oMoYyh jksM] 

,M;kjiky;e 

25 ds 1136 lh'kuk;duiky;e 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

26 ds- 1744 lsEeuneiky;e 

27 Lkh- 

168 

,p- 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

iksLV] dks;EcVwj & 641025 

170] usrkth jksM] 

lhjkuk;duiky;e] 

dks;EcVqj & 641007 

lsEeuneiky;e iksLV] 

lksEeuwj }kjk] 

iYykne & 641668 

lsUuekiky; exfyj 11@99] vUuwj jksM] 

148 

fl#eqxb & 641302

29 CH.93 Seripalayam Sri Ramalinga Andipalayam Post, 

Sowdeswari 

Seripalayam, Pollachi – 642 

120. 

30 CH.14 Sirumugai Pudur SRS Sowdambigai, 

Sirumugai Pudur 



31 CH.122 Sirumugai Pudur Sri Sowdeswari 11/237, Annur Road, 

Opposite V.N.K. Theatre, 

Sirumugai 

Pudur – 641 302. 

32 K.1938 Sivasakthi Handloom WCS 155, Theppakulam Street, 

33 CH.33 Sree Lakshmi Vinayagar WCS 

No.4, Coimbatore – 641 001. 

139, H1, Rukmani Gardens 

Ondipudur, 


34 CH.153 Sri Balaji 133/174, Soundamman Kovil 

Street, Samichettipalayam, 

Jothipuram Post, 


35 CH.169 Sri Sakthi Handloom WCS 12/85, Mahalakshmi Theatre 

Road, Opp.Karappan Silks, 

Kamaraj Street, 

Kamaraj Nagar, 

Sirumugai, 

Pudur – 641 302. 

36 CH.97 Sri Sowdeswari – Veerapandi Veerapandi, 

Veerapandi, Post, Tirupur. 

37 K.1502 Subbarayanpudur Devanga Pillaiyar Kovil Street, 

Subbarayanpudur Post, 

Somanur Via,Palladam Taluk. 

149

28 lh- ,p- 

105 

29 lh- ,p- 

93 

30 lh- 

14 

,p- 

31 lh- 

122 

,p- 

lsUueiky;e ,p- vkj- ,l 11@99] vUuwj jksM] 

lsjhiky;e Jh jkefyax 

lkSmns'kojh 

fl#eqxb iqnwj ,l- vkj- 

,l 

fl#eqxb 

lkSmns'kojh 

iqnwj Jh 

32 ds- 1938 f'ko'fDr gSaMywe] 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

33 lh ,p 33 Jh y{eh fouk;xj 

34 lh- 

153 

,p- 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

fl#eqxb & 641302 

vkaMhiky;e iksLV] 

lsjhiky;e] 

iksYykph & 642120 

lkSnEHkhxy 

eSV~Vqiky;e 

fl#eqxb iqnwj] 

rkyqd fl#eqxb & 641302 

11@237] vUuwj jksM+] fo- ,u 

ds- fFk;sVj ds foijhr] 

fl#eqxn] iqnwj & 641302 

155] rsIidqYye LVªhV] 4] 

dks;EcVwj & 641001- 

139] ,p&1] :de.kh xkMZu 

vksaMhiqj] dks;EcVqj & 641016 

Jh ckykth 133@174] lkSaMEeu dksbZy 

LVªhV] LokehpsV~Vhiky;e] 

T;ksfriqje iksLV] dks;EcVqj & 

641047 

150

38 CH.78 Thanthai Periyar Cotton 5/156, Sri Nagar, 

Cum Silk 

Pichampalayam Pudur 

Post,Tirupur – 641 603. 

39 K.1529 The Sirumugai Pudur 4/26, Sirumugai Pudur 

Devanga WCS 



40 CH.157 Thiruvalluvar – 2/57,Kullakapalayam, 

Kullakapalayam 

Palanigoundanpudur 

Pollachi Taluk, 


Post, 

41 K.901 Tirupur WCS Post Box No.20, 221 

Kumaran Road, 

Tirupur – 638 601. 

42 K.905 Vadambachery SRS Vadambachery, 

Sulthanpet Via, 

Palladam Taluk – 641 669. 

43 CH.34 Vadambachery, Sri. Vadambachery, 

Natarajar 

Sulthanpet Via, 

Vadambachery Post, 

Palladam Taluk – 641 669. 

44 CH.152 Vagai Vivekanandar WCS 8/31,Thiruvalluvar Street, 

Vagarayampalayam Post, 

Karumathampatti Via, 

Palladam Taluk, 


45 CH.99 Veera Sowdeswari Amman Bagathur, Sakthi Main Road, 



46 CH.80 Vellampalayam Industrial Vellampalayam, 

Tirupur – 641 302. 

151

35 lh- ,p- 

169 

36 lh- 

97 

,p- 

Jh 'kfDr gSaMywe 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

12@85] egky{eh fFk;sVj 

jksM+] djIiu flYd ds foijhr] 

dkejkt LVªhV] dkejkt uxj] 

fl#eqxb] iqnwj & 641302 

Jh lkSmns'ojh&ohjikaM+h ohjikaM+h] 

fr:iqj 

ohjikaMh] iksLV] 

37 ds- 1502 lqCcjk;uiqnwj nsoaxk fiYy;kj dksfoy LVªhV] 

lqCcjk;uiqnwj 

38 Lh- 

78 

,p- 

ran; isfj;kj dkV~Vu 

de flYd 

39 ds- 1529 nh fl:eqxb iqnwj nsoaxk 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

iksLV] lkseuwj }kjk] iYykne 

rkyqd 

5@156] Jh uxj] 

fiNeiky;e iqnwj 

iksLV] fr#iqj & 641603 

4@26] fl:eqxb iqnwj] 

eSV~Vqiky;e rkyqd 

fl#eqxb & 641302 

40 lh-,p-157 fr#oYywj & dqykdiky;e 2@157] 

iyuhxkSnuiqnwj 

dqykdkiky;e 

iksLV] iksYykph rkyqd] 


41 ds- 901 fr#iwj MCY;w- lh- ,l iksLV ckWdl u-20] 221] 

dqeju jksM] fr#iwj & 638601 

152

47 K.1061 Vellalore Devanga Handloom WCS 9, Anna Street, 

48 CH.20 Vellalore Sri Sowdambika 

Vellalore Post, Pathanur Via, 


V.O.C Road, 

Vellalore Post, Pothanur 


49 CH.81 Vellikuppampalayam, Sri. Sidhi 11/37,New Road, 

Vinayagar 

Vellikuppampalayam, 


50 CH.113 Annai Theresa Mahalir WCS Amman Kovil Street 

Moolathurai Illuppalayam 

51 CH.74 SavakkattupalayamThiruvalluvar 

(P.O) Sirumugai Via 


Main Road, 

WCS 

Savakkattupalayam P.O 

Avinashi Taluk. 

52 CH.114 Savakkattupalayam Aringar Anna Main Road, 

WCS 



53 CH.117 Nethaji WCS Main Road, 



54 CH.120 Savakkattupalayam Thanthai Periyar Main Road, 

WCS 



153

42 ds- 905 oMEHkkpsjh ,l- vkj- ,l oMEHkkpsjh] lqYrkuisr }kjk] 

43 lh- ,p- 

34 

44 lh- 

152 

,p- 

45 lh- 

99 

,p- 

46 lh- 

80 

,p- 

iYykMe rkyqd & 641669 

oMEHkkpsjh] Jh uVjktj oMEHkkpsjh] lqYrkuisr }kjk] 

obxb foosdkuanj 

MCyw- lh- ,l 

oMEHkkpsjh iksLV] iYykMe 

rkyqd & 641669 

8@31] fr:oYywj LVªhV] 

oxjk;eiky;e iksLV 

d#ekFkeiV~Vh }kjk] iYykMe 

rkyqd] dks;EcVqj & 642659 

ohjk lkSns'ojh vEeu Hkxrwj ] 'kkfDr esbu jksM] 

eSV~Vqiky;e rkyqd] 

fl#eqxb & 641302 

osYyeiky;e banLVªh;y osYyeiky;e 

641302 

fr#iqj & 

47 ds- 1061 osYykywj nsoaxk gSaMywe 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

154 

1] v..kk LVªhV] osYykywj 

iksLV] iFkuwj }kjk] 

dks;EcVqj & 641 111

KORA COTTON S AREES PRODUCING S OCIETIES IN ERODE C IRC LE 

1 CH.17, Savakkattupalayam Dr. 

M.G.R. WCS Ltd, 

Savakkattupalayam Post, 

Numbiyur (Via), Gobi (T.K) PIN. 

638 460 

2 EH.169 Nethahi WCS Ltd, 

Sadumugai (P.O) D.G. Pudur 

(Via), Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 503 

3 EH.183 Kaliyur WCS Ltd, 

Kaliyur, D.G. Pudur Gobi (T.K) 

PIN. 638 503 

4 EH.156 Nanjappa Chettipudur 

WCS Ltd, Nanjappa Chettipudur 

D.G. Pudur (P.O), Sathy (T.K) 

Pin 638 503 

5 EH.168 Sadumugal Sowdeswari 

Amman Mahalir WCS, Ltd, 

Sadamugai (P.O) D.G. Pudur 


6 EH.171, Sri. Bannariamman 

WCS Ltd, Makkinamkombai, 

Arasur (P.O) Sathy (T.K) Pin 

638 454 

7 K.1130, Savakkattupalayam 

WCS Ltd, Savakkattupalayam 

Post, Numbiyur (Via), Gobi 

(T.K) PIN. 638 460 

8 CH.24, Doodampalayam Anna WCS Ltd, 

Doodampalayam (P.O) Bhavani Sagar, 


9 EH. 85, Thanthai Pereyar Industrial, 

Doddampalayam (P.O) Bhavani Sagar, 

(Via), Sathyamangalam (T.K) 

Pin 638 451 

10 EH.73 Pariyar Amman WCS Ltd, 

Sengottai Nagar, D.G. Pudur Gobi (T.K) 

PIN. 638 503 

11 EH.139, Ponmanam WCS Ltd, (P.O) D.G. 

Pudur Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 503 

12 CH. 27, Anna WCS Ltd, D.G. Pudur (P.O) 

Gobi (T.K) Pin 638 503 

13 EH.164, Mahathma WCS Ltd, 

Kembanaickenpalayam (P.O) D.G. (Via) 

Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 503 

14 EH.176, Vallalar Magalir WCS Ltd, 

Doodampalayam (P.O) Bhavani Sagar, 


155

48 lh- ,p- 

20 

49 lh-,p-81 osYyhdqIieiky;e] 

50 lh- 

113 

,p- 

51 lh- 

74 

,p- 

52 lh- 

114 

,p- 

53 lh- 

117 

,p- 

osYykywj Jh lkSnEchdk oh- vks- lh- jksM] osYykywj 

Jh fl)hfouk;xj 

vUubZ Fksjslk exfyj 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

lkoDdkFkqiky;e fr:Yyqoj 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

lkoDdkFkqiky;e vfjuj 

v..kk 

MCY;w- lh- ,l 

iksLV] iksFkkuwj] 

dks;EcVqj & 641 111 

11@37] U;w jksM] 

oYyhdqIieiky;e 

fl#eqxb & 641302 

vEeu dksfoy LVªhV] eqyrqjb 

bYywiky;e ¼iksLV½] fl:eqxb 

}kjk eSV~Vqiky;e & rkyqd 

esbu jksM]lkoDdk;qiky;e ihvks- 

vfouk'kh rkyqd 

esbu jksM]lkoDdkFkqiky;e ihvks-] 

vfouk'kh rkyqd 

usrkth MCY;w- lh- ,l esbu jksM] lkoDdkFkqiky;e 

ih- vks- vfouk'kh rkyqd 

156

15 EH.125 Kamarajar, 

WCS Ltd, 

Doodampalayam (P.O) 

Bhavani Sagar, (Via), 

Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 

451 

16 CH. 68, 

Sathyamangalam 

Devanga WCS Ltd, 

Govindarajapuram, 

Sathyamangalam (T,K) 

Pin 638 402 

17 EH.157,Sri Sowdeswari 

WCS Ltd, 

Doodampalayam (P.O) 

Bhavani Sagar, (Via), 

Sathy (T.K) Pin 638 

451 

18 EH.154, Bhagavathi 

Amman WCS Ltd, 

Dasappagoundenpudur 

(P.O) Sathy (T.K) Pin 

638 503 

19 AA. 135 Uthandiyur 

WCS Ltd, Uthandiyur 

(P.O) Sathy (T.K) 

Pin 638 402 

24 EH. 215 Malleswari WCS Ltd, 201, 

Ghandhi Street, Devangapuram (P.O) 

Kangeyam (TK) Erode – 638 701 

25 K.1170 Kangayam Sowdambika WCS 

Ltd, Kangeyam (P.O), Kangeyam (TK) 

Pin 638 701 

26 EH. 48 Kangayam WCS Ltd, Kangeyam 

(P.O), Pin 638 701 

27 EH. 208 Manimegalai WCS Ltd, 

Kangeyam (P.O), Kangeyam (TK) Erode 

(Dt) Pin 638 701 

28 EH. 185, Angalamman 54 – A, Kodiveri 

Road, D.G, Pudur (P.O) Pin 638 508 

Gobi (TK). 

157

54 lh- ,p- 120 lkoDdk 

Fkqiky; 

e ran; 

isfj;kj 

MCY;wlh- 

,l 

esbu jksM lkoDdkFkqiky;e ih vksvfouk'kh 

rkyqd 

bZjksM ifjf/k esa dksjk dikl lkM+h mRikfnr lekt 

1 lh-,p-17] lkoDdkFkqiky;e MkW] 

,e-th-vkjfyfeVsM] 

MCY;w- lh- ,llkoDdkFkqiky;e 

¼}kjk½ 

iksLV] uqEHkh;wj 

xksch ¼rkyqd½ fiu & 638460 

2 bZ-,p-169] usrkgh MCY;w- lh- ,l 

fyfeVsM] lkMqeqxb ¼ih-vks½ Mh-thiqnwj 

¼}kjk½ lkFkh] rkyqd fiu 638503 

3 bZ- ,p- 183] dfy;wj MCY;wlh- 

,l- fyfeVsM] 

dfy;wj] Mh-th iqnwj] 

xksch ¼rkyqd½ fiu 638503 

158 

9 lh-,p-24] nw/keiky;e v..kk 

MCY;w- lh- ,l- fyfeVsM] 

nw/keiky;e 

¼ih-vks½] Hkokuh lkxj ¼}kjk½ 

lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ fiu 638 451 

10 bZ- ,p ran; isfj;kj banLVªh;y] 

nw/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½] Hkokuh lkxj 

¼}kjk½ lR;eaxye ¼rkyqd½ 

fiu 638 451 

11 bZ- ,p- 73 ikfj;j vEeu 

MCY;w-lh-,luxj] 

fyfeVsM] lsaxksV; 

Mh-th- iqnwj xksch ¼rkyqd½ 

fiu 638 503

20 EH.184, Erankattur Sri Ramakrishnan 

WCS Ltd, Doodampalayam (P.O) Sathy 

(T.K) Pin 638 451 

21 EH. 211 D.G. Pudur Mahalir Ka WCS 

Ltd, Kaliyur, D.G. Pudur Gobi (T.K) 

22 EH. 209 Sri Kamatchiamman WCS 

Kangeyam, Pin. 638 701 

23 EH. 214, Therpatti Devanga WCS Ltd, 

Therpatti (P.O) Dharapuram (TK) 

Erode, Dt, Pin 638 673 

159 

29 EH. 192, Muthamail WCS Ltd, 

A.Ponnammal Street, D.G, Pudur 

(P.O) Gobi (TK) Pin 638 503 

30 EH. 196 Sathy Sowdeswari WCS 

Ltd, Bellampatti (P.O) 

Gundadam (via) Dharapuram 

(TK) 

Pin 638 702 

31 EH. 199 Sri Balaji WCS Ltd, 

Pasuvapalayam, (Post) 

Sathyamangalam (TK). 

32 EH.160, Sri Selvavinayaga WCS 

Ltd, 1/35, Kolathupalayam, 

Perundurai Taluk, M.Pidariyur 

post, Chennimalai. Pin 638 058.

4 bZ ,p 156 uatIik Nsrhiqnwj 

MCY;w lh- ,l- fyfeVsM] 

uatIik Nsrhiqnwj] Mh-th-iqnwj ¼ih-vks½] 


5 bZ ,p 168 lk/kqeqxy lkSans'ojh 

vEeu egfyj 


lknkeqxb ¼ih-vks½] Mh-th iqnwj ¼}kjk½ 


6 bZ- ,p- 171 Jh cUukjhvEeu 


efDduedksEcb] vjlwj ¼ih-vks½] 


7 ds1130 lkoDdkFkqiky;e] 


lkoddkFkqiky;e iksLV] 

uqEHkh;wj ¼}kjk½ xksch ¼rkyqd½ 

fiu 638 460 

160 

12 bZ- ,p- 139 iksueue 

MCY;w- lh- ,l fyfeVsM] ¼ihvks½] 

Mh-th- iqnwj lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ 

fiu 638 503 

13 bZ- ,p- 27 v..kk MCY;w lh 

,l fyfeVsM] 

Mh-th iqnwj ¼ih-vks½ xksch 

¼rkyqd½ 

fiu 638 503 

14 bZ- ,p- 164] egkRek MCY;wlh- 

,l- fyfeVsM] 

dseHkuk;duiky;e 

¼ih-vks½ Mh-th ¼}kjk½ lkFkh 

¼rkyqd½ 

fiu 638 503 

15 bZ- ,p- 176] oYyykj Hkxfrj 

MCY;w- lh- ,l fyfeVsM] 

nq/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½] Hkokuh 

lkxj 

¼}kjk½ lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ 

fiu 638 454

Any other societies or associations that are already established or that will be established 

in future within the identified territorial limits (map) submitted to G.I Registry will also 

become eligible to use the G.I mark upon the said goods by complying the requirements 

under law. 



Kovai Kora Cotton means cotton yarn saree, in which the kora silk for warp and 2/100 

gas mercerized extra - long staple for weft and Jari from Gujarat for making pallu and 

putta, with intricate craftsmanship are used. 

Warp : 20/22 Deenier cora silk 

Weft : 2/100 S gas mercerized cotton yarn 

Border : Half fine Zari 

Pallu : 2/100 S Mercerized yarn + half fine Jari 

Putta : Half fine Zari 

Extra warp : Half fine Zari 

Extra weft : Half fine Zari 

Warp will be about 4800 ends which will be adequate for producing 8 Sarees with a total 

length of 52 meters and each saree of 6.30 metres (same length of 5.52 metres and Blouse 

piece of 0.80 metres). 

The remainder Warp of 1.60 metres is used for piecing. 

SI.NO PARTICULARS SPECIFICATIONS 

1 Length 247 Inch 6.30 metres 

2 Width 47 Inch 119cms 

3 Reed Count 96 

4 Ends/Inch 96 

5 Picks / Inch 75 to 80 

161

8 bZ- ,p- 125 dkejktj 

MCY;w- lh- ,l fyfeVsM] 

nw/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½] 

Hkokuh lkxj ¼}kjk½ 


17 lh-,p-68] lR;aeaxye nsouxk 

MCY;w-lh-,l- fyfeVsM] 

xksfoUnjktkiqje] LR;eaxye 

¼rkyqd½ 

fiu & 638402 

18 bZ-,p-157] Jh lkSns'ojh 


nw/keiky;e ¼ih-vks½ Hkokuh 

lkxj 

¼}kjk½ lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ 

fiu & 638451 

19 bZ-,p-154] Hkxorh vEeu 

MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM] 

MklIikxkÅuMuiqnwj ¼ih-vks½ 

lkFkh ¼rkyqd½ 

fiu & 638503 

20 ,-,-135] mFkufM;wj 


mFkufM;wj 

¼rkyqd½ 

¼ih-vks½ lkFkh 

fiu & 638402 

16 bZ- ,p- 209] Jh dkek{khvEeu 

MCY;w lh ,l] dkaxs;e] 

fiu 638 701 

25 bZ- ,p- 214 FksjiV~Vh nsouxk 


FksjiV~Vh ¼ih-vks½ /kkjkiqje] ¼rkyqd½ 

bZjksM & ftyk] fiu & 638673 

26 bZ- ,p- 215 ekys'ojh 


201] xk¡/kh LVªhV ¼ih-vks½] nsoaxkiqje 

¼ih- vks½ 

dkax;e] ¼rkyqd½ 

bZjksM & 638701 

27 ds- 1170 dkax;e lkSneHkhdk 


dkax;e ¼ih-vks½] dkax;e] ¼rkyqd½ 

fiu & 638701 

28 bZ-,p-48 dkax;e 


dkax;e ¼ih-vks½] fiu & 638701 

162

The Central Silk Board has indicated the differences between pure silk and Art silk as 

follows: 



burns slowly 


smell 


rough surface 



powder 



comparatively 




163 


continuously 


paper smell 



• The ash is amorphous in 

nature 






recovering 

slow. 

is rather

21 bZ-,p-184] 

jkeÑ".ku 

,judFkqj Jh 


nw/keiky;e 

¼rkyqd½ 

¼ih-vks½ lkFkh 

fiu & 638451 

22 bZ-,p-211] Mh-th-iqnwj exfyj 

dk 


dfy;wj] Mh-th iqnwj 

xksch ¼rkyqd½ 

23 bZ-,p-192] eqFkfey 


, iksuEeky LVªhV ¼ih-vks½ 


24 bZ-,p-196] lkFkh lkSns'ojh 


csykeiV~Vh ¼ih-vks½ ] x.kMMe 

¼}kjk½ 


29 bZ- ,p- 208 ef.kesxyb 


dkax;e ¼ih-vks½] bZjksM & ftyk] 

fiu & 638701 

30 bZ- ,p- 185] vaxyvEeu 

54-,] dskMhosjh jksM 

Mh- th- iqnwj (ih- vks½ 

Ihu&638508] ¼rkyqd½ 

31 bZ-,p- 199 Jh ckykth 


i'kqoiky;e ¼iksLV½ 

lR;eaxye ¼rkyqd½ 

32 bZ-,p 199 Jhlsyofouk;x 

MCY;w-lh-,l fyfeVsM] 1@35] 

dksyFkqiky;e] 

fiMfj;wj iksLV 

is#unqjb rkyqd],epsUuheybZ] 

fiu & 638058 

vU; dksbZ lekt ;k la?k tks igys ls gh LFkkfir gS ;k ftldh LFkkiuk 

Hkfo"; esa gksus okyh gS tks th-vkbZ jftLVªh ds izknsf'kd lhek ¼ekufp=½ ds 

igpkuk {ks= esa vkrk gS Hkh th- vkbZ fpg~u dk mi;ksx eky ij dj ldrk gS 

fof/k ds rgr vko';drk dk ikyu djdsA 

164

Physical Properties of Silk 

• Shape 


• Lustre 






slippery 


• Denier 

4.5 g/d (dry) ; 2.8-4.0 g/d (wet) 

Mechanical Properties of Silk 

• Strength 








165

¼?k½ eky ds izdkj % mRikfnr lkexzh VsDLVkby 

¼M-½ fofunsZ'k 

dksob dksjk dikl dk vFkZ gS dikl ;kuZ lkM+h ftlesa rkuk ds fy, dksjk 

js'ke vkSj ckuk ds fy, 2@100 xSl ejljkbZt+n vfrfjDr yEck jksok vkSj iYyw 

vkSj iqV~Vk cukus ds fy, xqtjkr ls tjh] tfVy dkjhxjh gquj dk mi;ksx gksrk 

gSA 

tjh 

rkuk % 20@22 nhfu;j dksjk js'ke 

ckuk % 2@100 ,l xSl ejljkbZt+n dikl ;kuZ 

lhek % v/kZ lkQ tjh 

iYyw % 2@100 ejlhjkbZt+n ;kuZ $ v/kZ lkQ 

iqV~Vk % v/kZ lkQ tjh 

vfrfjDr rkuk % v/kZ lkQ tjh 

vfrfjDr ckuk % v/kZ lkQ tjh 

okiZ dk yxHkx 4800 dksus gksaxs tks dqy yackbZ 52 ehVj ds lkFk 8 lkM+h 

mRiknu djus ds fy, i;kZIr gS vkSj izR;sd lkM+h 6-30 ehVj dk gksaxsA (mfpr 

yackbZ 5-52 ehVj vkSj Cykml ihl 0-80 ehVj) A ckdh okiZ 1-60 ehVj dks ihflax 

ds fy, mi;skx fd;k tkrk gSA 

166

Chemical Properties of Silk 















(F) Name of the Geographical Indication: 


KOVAI KORA COTTON SAREES 

Kovai Kora Cotton means cotton yarn saree, in which the kora silk for warp and 

2/100 gas mercerized extra - long staple for weft and Jari for making pallu and putta, 

with intricate craftsmanship are used.Kovai Kora Cotton saree is a blend of cotton and 

silk yarns beautifully woven in the fine craftsmanship, unsurpassed in the annals of 

textile history 

167

Øe la fooj.k fofufnZ’Vhdj.k 

1 yackbZ 247 bap 6-30 ehVj 

2- pkSMkbZ 47 bap 119 ls eh 

3- jhM dkmaV 96 

4- dksus@bap 96 

5- fid@ bap 75 ls 80 




Tyuk & tyrk gS ij /khjs /khjs 


gks tkrk gSA 


xa/k vkrh gS 












gSA 

gSA 

168 


tyrk jgrk gSA 










gSA 



/kheh gS

(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 199 & 200. 

The Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees production is extended to the area as shown in the 

Map in page no 199 & 200 .The main centers of the location where the Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees 

is manufactured includes: 

Coimbatore District 

1. Coimbatore 

2. Mettupalayam 

3. Sirumugai 

4. Periya Nayaka Palayam 

5. Annur 

6. Kovil Palayam 

7. Tiruppur 

8. Malayanti Patinam 

9. Avinashi 

10. Vatthampa Cherri 

11. Udumalaipettai 

Erode District 

1. Sathyamangalam 

2. Bhavani 

3. Gobi Chettipalayam 

4. Nambiyur 

5. Doddampalayam 

6. Kangeyam 

7. Gundadam 

8. Kolathupalayam 

9. Dharapuram 

169

js”keh dk HkkSfrd y{k.k 

&vkdkj 

gSA 

& ped 

js”ke dk f=dks.kh; vkdkj dzkl lsD”ku gkrk gS ftudk dksus jkmaMM gksrs 




js”ke Qkbcj esa nqcZy dofjax “kfDr miyC/k gSA ;g irys fQyesaV 

fuekZ>k ds dkj.k gSA 

& gkFk 



& Msfu;j 



&”kfDr 






& iyVko 


170


The people of Devangar Community in the GI area are said to hail from Ahmed 

Nagar in Gujarat and migrated to South India as a result of the annihilation of Vijaya 

Nagar empire in the Talaikotta War in 1565, when the Kayatri Peetam of Devangars in 

Hemakooda Parvatham was destroyed. They settled at Sirumugai, Mettupalayam and 

Sathyamangalam of the then Coimbatore district. They are the pioneers of weaving Kovai 

Kora Cotton. 

Historians claimed that the name Deveangar means the weavers of the dresses 

used for clothing the celestial bodies. (Deva - God, Anga – body ). 

The practice of making available the attire for local satraps and chieftains had 

been in vogue at Coimbatore District. During the reign of Vijaya Nagar empire the silk - 

cocoons had been produced mainly from the Kollegal area which was part of the then 

Coimbatore district, in the then Madras Presidency. It was ordered to a handloom weaver 

residing at T.G.Pudur, a part of Coimbatore District and situated near Karnataka to 

produce clothes for the member of the royal family, by using the silk yarn drawn from 

silk cocoons as warp and the super fine cotton yarn, drawn from the cotton produced in a 

large measure at Coimbatore District for the weft. The variety which was produced as 

such is called Kovai Kora Cotton. 

The Hindu – The Silk Industry in Tamil Nadu: A Feature, Dated: 6 th Nov – 1999 

deals with Kovai Kora Cotton in the following terms: 

By count and textile, look and softness Coimbatore sarees have carved a niche 

among women. Fifteen years ago, weavers in Coimbatore were using only cotton to 

manufacture sarees. When the competition became stiff because of the similar sarees 

171











produced by modern mills, a new method was devised by the handloom sector in 

weaving. Thus was born the Kora Silk. 

Initially Kora silk was used for pavu and oodu to weave yarn sarees. Later 

considering the prevailing weather conditions, Kora thread was used only for pavu and 

cotton thread was used for oodu in manufacturing the hybrid Kora silk sarees. The 

present Kora silk sarees from Coimbatore have received tremendous appreciation from 

people all over the country. 

Madras District Gazetteers - Coimbatore by Dr.B.S.Baliga (1966) deals with 

Kovai Cora Cotton in the following terms: 

“In the field of industries, handloom industry, metal work and jewellery occupied 

a prominent place under the Cholas. The best of handloom fabrics, silk as well as cotton, 

went always to the royal palaces, temples, and foreign countries, while the rest were sold 

all over the country by hawkers. We are told that `excellent napkins’ and `linen voils’ 

were exported to Siraf and Kish in the Persian Gulf and cotton fabrics of all sorts and 

coloured silk threads were exported to Indo-China”. 

And in another context, the said Gazetteers record the significance of Kovai Kora cotton 

as follows: - 

“The most common variety of clothes produced in the district are the coarse 

coloured saris. They are woven from yarns of 20s to 30s and measure 14 to 18 cubits long 

and 42 to 45 inches wide with 18 to 20 punjams. The chief centres of producing these 

coloured saris are Negamam, Mantripalayam, Periyapalayam, Ammapalayam, 

Sennimalai and Sivagiri. Most of the yarn consumed, is obtained from local mills, 

173

,p- mRiknu ds HkkSxksfyd foLrkj vkSj i`’B la- 199]200 esa nf”kZr ekufp= 

dksob dksjk dikl mRiknu ls lacaf/kr HkkSxksfyd {ks= rFkk uD”kk dks 

i`’B la- 199]200 esa fn[kk;s vuqlkj foLrkj fd;k x;k gS 

{ks=ksa dk eq[; dsUnz tgkaW dksob dksjk dikl dk mRiknu fd;k tk jgk 

gS mlesa fuEu lfEefyr Gsa 

1- dks;EcRrwj ftyk 

1- dks;EcRrwj 

2- esV~Vqiky;e 

3- fl#eqxS 

4- isfj; uk;d iky;d 

5- vUuwj 

6- dksfoy iky;e 

7- fr#Iiwj 

8- ey;kUrh ifV~Vue 

9- vfouk”kh 

10- oV~VEik psjh 

11- mMqeySisV~VS 

bZjksM ftyk 

1- lR;eaxye 

2- Hkokuh 

3- xksoh psfV~Viky;e 

4- uafc;wj 

174

while coloured yarn, especially red, is imported from Madurai ready dyed. Dyeing with 

other colours is done at Tiruppur, Kangayam, Sennimalai, Bhavani and Mantripalayam, 

where the agents of the Havero Trading Company supply the colours and instruct the 

dyers in the process of dyeing. Besides these coarse saris, grey saris of finer counts of 

Pullampetta pattern are also produced in Sathyamangalam for export to the Northern 

Circars”. 

The above statement indicates that the weaving communities in the GI area were 

producing course coloured sarees of different kinds using cotton yarns of 20 and 30 

counts. The weavers in the area were specialising in the production of sarees by adopting 

Traditional Methods. After the advent of the extra long staple, super fine cotton varieties 

of 100 and 120 counts like SUVIN cotton varieties and hybrids, and with the introduction 

of superior Crass – Bred (CB) (Multivoltine * Bivoltine and Bivoltine silkworm cocoons 

with a denier of 18/20 and 20/22 high quality silk fibre, the traditional weavers of the GI 

area were able to switch over to fine quality of Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees blending both 

these types of fibres. They almost stopped the production of course cotton sarees in the 

region. However, in the Erode district excepting for small areas around Sathiyamangalam 

and Sadhumugai, etc., where the Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees are still produced, the bulk of 

the remaining areas continue to produce the course type of various cotton textiles 

including sarees. 


1) DEGUMMING 

Each warp or weft yarn weighs about one pound (approximately 0.5 kg). This weight 

is known as "THADA”. Thadas are immersed in a copper vessel containing cold water 

for three to five minutes. They are then squeezed and inserted into two bamboo rods of 

size 3' x 11½'. In the meantime, about 4 gallons of water are raised to boiling point in a 

copper pot of diameter 2’ and height 3 1/2 ’. One bar of USNA SOAP weighing about 600 

grams is dissolved in the boiling water. This soap is made locally with lime nd caustic 

soda, coconut oil and resin. The Thadas are immersed in this bath and constantlly turned 

175

5- nksMkeiky;e 

6- dkaxs;e 

7- xqaMkMe 

8- dksyRrqiky;e 

9- /kkjkiqje 

¼vkbZ½ izknqHkkZo dk izek.k ¼,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k½ % 

;g dgk tkrk gS fd th vkbZ {ks= esa nsouxj leqnk; ds yksx xqtjkr ds 

vgen uxj ls vk;s Fks vkSj 1565 esa ry;dksV~Vk ;q) esa fot; uxj lkezkT; ds 

gkj ds ckn os nf{k.k Hkkjr pys x;s] tc nsouxj dk x;=h ihB] gsekdwMk ijoV~Ve 

esa u"V gks x;kA os ml le; ds dks;EcVqj ftysa ds fl#eqxb] esV~Vqiky;e vkSj 

lR;eaxye esa cl x;sA ;s gh dksob dksjk dikl ds iFk & izn'kZd gSA 

bfrgkldkj ds vuqlkj nsouxj dk vFkZ gS fnO; tho dks oL= igukus okys 

cqudjA ¼nso & Hkxoku] vax & 'kjhj½ 

dks;EcVqj ftyk esa LFkkuh; eqf[k;k vkSj usrk dks oL= miyC/k djkus dh 

izpyu FkkA fot;uxj ds 'kklu esa eq[;r% [kksyaxy {ks= ls js'ke dks"k dk mRiknu 

fd;k tkrk Fkk tks igys enzkl izsflMsUlh ds varxZr dks;EcVqj ftyk dk vaax FkkA 

Mh-th-iqnwj] tks dks;EcVqj ftyk dk vax Fkk vkSj dukZVd ds ikl fLFkr Fkk] ds 

gFkdj?kk cqudj dks vkns'k fn;k x;k fd os jktdh; ifjokj ds fy, oL= cuk;s] 

rkuk ds js'ke dks"k ls js'ke ;kuh vkSj mÙke lkQ dikl ;kuZ dk mi;ksx djds uks 

ml le; dks;EcVqj ftyk esa ckuk dh vf/kd ek=k esa mRiknu fd;k tkrk FkkA bl 

fdLe ds mRiknu dks dksob dksjk dikl dgk tkrk gSA 

n&fgUnw&nh flYd baMLVªh bu rfeyukMq% ,d ys[k tks 6 uoEcj 1999 dks 

izdkf'kr gqvk Fkk] ds vuqlkj dksob dksjk dikl dk fuEufyf[kr 'kCnksa es mYys[k 

fd;k x;k- 

176

at intervals of 2 to 3 minutes. While turning the Thadas care is taken to ensure that they do 

not come into contact with the sides of the vessel unless there is water. After 15 minutes, 

it is found that the silk has a wavy appearance, which indicates that the process of 

degumming is complete. The yarn is then squeezed and rinsed thrice in three separate 

vessels. Each vessel containing four to five gallons of water. The water used at city 

possess good quality of impacting lustre to raw silk. The degumming water will be 

disposed of in the open area with a size of 1 mtr square bore with sand and jally, (granite 

pebbles). 

2) Bleaching 

For bleaching Silk Yarn the following chemicals are used: 

1. Soda ash – 0.080 gm 

2. Sodium Hydro sulphate – 0.030gm 

3. WG Tinopal – 0.015gm 

4. Ground water – 20 litre 

All the above chemicals are dissolved in water. The water is boiled for 15 minutes. A 

bamboo pole is and rotated continuously. This process takes nearly 6 hours. 

After 6 hours silk yarn will be removed and about 2 times rinsed in 20 bit of per kg of 

silk. After that press 50 ml Acetic Acid is added in water and continued rotating the silk. 

The silk yarn thus be come bright white. After that the silk yarn will be again rinsed in 

water three times. The rinsed water is disposed of in the open places in bits already used 

for the purpose. About 2 to 3kg of silk yarn will be used at a time per looms and this 

process is done one time in a month. There is pollution problem in this process. 

These works are done traditionally by the weavers. There is no disease or skin afflictions 

to the people who undertake bleaching. 

177

viuh fxurh vkSj oL=] fn[kkbZ vkSj eqyk;eiu ds dkj.k dks;EcVqj lkMh us 

fL=;ksa ds lkeus vyx vk/kkj cuk fy;k gSA ianzg o"kZ iwoZ] dks;EcVqj ds cqudj 

lkM+h ds mRiknu ds fy, flQZ dikl dk gh mi;ksx djrs FksA tc Li/kkZ dfBu gks 

x;k D;ksafd ,sls lkM+h vk/kqfud fey Hkh djus yxs rks cqukbZ ds fy, gFkdj?kk {ks= 

us u;s rjhdk dk vfo"dkj fd;kA bl izdkj dksjk js'ke dk mnHko gqvkA 

igys ;kuZ lkM+h ds ikoq vkSJ ÅM; dh cqukbZ ds fy, dksjk js'ke dks mi;ksx 

fd;k tkrk FkkA ckn esa O;kIr ekSle dh fLFkfr dks ns[kdj] fefJr dksjk js'ke lkM+h 

ds fuekZ.k esa ikoq ds fy, dksjk /kkxk vkSj ÅM; ds fy, dikl /kkxs dk mi;ksx 

fd;k tkus yxkA dks;EcVqj dk orZeku dksjk js'ke lkM+h dks ns'kHkj ds yksxksa ls 

cgqr iz'kalk feyhA 

enzkl fMfLVªd xftfVvj & dks;EcVqj] MkW-ch-,l-cfyxk ¼1966½ }kjk 

fyf[kr] dksob dksjk dikl dk fuEufy[kr 'kCnksa esa % 

^^pksy ds le; esa m|ksx] gFkdj?kk] /kkrq dk;Z vkSj tokgjkr {ks= dk fo'ks"k 

egRo FkkA gFkdj?kk oL= dk mÙke js'ke vkSj dikl Hkh ges'kk jktdh; egyksa] 

eafnjksa vkSj fons'kksa dks tkrk Fkk tcfd ckdh lc Qsjhokys ns'k Hkj esa csprs FksA 

gels dgk tkrk gS fd ijf'k;k xYQ ds fljkQ vkSj fd'k esa ^mÙke NksVk rkSfy;k* 

vkSj ^fyusu ok;y* dk fu;kZZr fd;k tkrk Fkk vkSj Hkkjr & phu esa lHkh izdkj ds 

dikl oL= vkSj jaxhu js'ke /kkxs dk fu;kZr fd;k tkrk FkkA** 

,d vU; lanHkZ esa] dksob dksjk dikl ds fo'ks"krk dks ;g xftfVvj bl 

rjg dgrk gS % 

^^bl ftys esa lcls vke fdLe dk oL= [kqjnjk jaxhu lkM+h gSA 

;g 20 ls 30 ;kuZ ls cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj yEckbZ 14 ls 18 gkFk Hkj dh uki 

gksrh gS vkSj pkS

In ancient days Kings, Zamindars etc., who ruled the countries, were honouring talented 

persons by way of giving prizes and they preferred hand woven clothes. “SAREE” is one 

of the best clothes often liked by the women in India. In spite of many modern clothes 

sarees still hold their specialty and importance. Kovai Kora Cotton Saree is one of the 

types of blended textiles, which contains Kora silk yarn and 2/100 mercerised cotton 

yarn. It looks like pure silk sarees but sold at low price. 

The Alignments of the Parts: 

The reed through which the warp ends passes is fixed to the slay. It is mainly 

operated by hand. The treadles are attached to the healds and in conjunction with the 

lease rods provide the necessary shedding for the shuttle to pass through in the process of 

weaving. The shuttle contains the prim on which the weft yarn is wound. The warp beam 

is primarily designed to provide the necessary tension while weaving, and the cloth beam 

is used to roll the cloth woven. The shuttle travels to shuttle box and is thrown by hand 

from one end to the other. The warp wise threads are called "ends" while the weftwise 

threads as "picks". The reads used by weavers at Coimbatore are made of iron rods. 

The equipments and Tools used for production: 

1. Bobbin. 

2. Vertical Charka and Prin. 

3. Twisting machine. 

4. Warping machine. 

5. Slay 

6. Treadle 

7. Reed 

8. Healds 

179

gSA vf/kdrj ;kuZ dk miHkksx LFkuh; fey ls izkIr gksrk gS tcfd jaxhu ;kuZ 

eq[;r% yky enqjbZ esa rS;kj jaxkbZ ls vk;kr fd;k tkrk gSA va; jax dh j¡xkbZ 

fr#iqj] dkax;e] lsUuhey;] Hkokuh vkSj ea=hiky;e esa dh tkrh gS tgk¡ gosjks 

VsªfMax dEiuh ds ,tsaV jax dks iwfrZ djrs gS vkSj j¡xkbZ dh izfd;k esa jaxusokyksa 

dks funsZ'k nsrs gSaA bu [kqjnjs lkM+h ds vykok mÙkjh fljdkj dks fu;kZr djus ds 

fy, lR;eaxye esa iqYykeisVk vkÑfr dk mÙke fxurh dk Hkwjk lkM+h dk mRiknu 

fd;k tkrk Fkk**A 

mijksDr oDrO; ls irk pyrk gS fd th- vkbZ {ks= ds cqudj leqnk; dikl 

;kuZ ds 20 vkSj 30 fxurh ls fofHkUu izdkj ds jaxhu [kqjnjk lkM+h dk mIiknu 

djrs FksA ijEijkxr rjhdk ds mi;ksx ls lkM+h dk mRiknu djus ds fy, bl {ks= 

ds cqudj fof'k"V FksA vfrfjDr yEck jksok ds vkus ds ckn] ije lkQ dikl ds 

100 vkSj 120 fxurh tSls lqfou dikl fdLe vkSj fefJr] ije Økl&czsM ¼lh-ch½ 

ds ifjp;] efYVoksyVkbu] fooksyVkbu vkSj fcoksyVkbu js'kedhM+s dks"k dk 18@20 

Msfu;j vkSj 20@22 mPp xq.krk js'ke js'kk] ijEijkxr cqudj tks th- vkbZ {ks= ds 

gS] dksob dksjk dikl lkM+h mPp xq.krk esa cny ldrs gS nksuks izdkj ds js'kk dks 

fe{k.k djdsA os yxHx [kqjnjk dikl lkM+h dk mRiknu bl {ks= es can dj pqds 

gSaA ysfdu] bZjkM+ ftys esa] lR;eaxye vkSj l/kqeqxb vkfn ds NksVs {ks= dks NksM+dj] 

tgk¡ dksob dkjk dikl lkM+h dk vc Hkh mRiknu gksrk gS] vf/kdrj {ks= vHkh Hkh 

[qjnjk izdkj ds dikl oL= ftlesa lkM+h 'kfey gS dk mRiknu djrs gSaA 

¼ts½ mRiknu dh jhfr % 

fMxfEeax 

gj rkuk ;k ckuk ;kuZ dk Hkkj yxHkx ,d ikmUM ¼yxHkx 0-5 fd- 

xzk½ bj Hkkj dks ^FkkM+k* dgrs gSaA FkkM+k dks rk ¡ck crZu esa rhu ls ik¡p feuV 

nqck;k tkrk gS ftlesa BaMk ikuh gksrk gSA ckn esa mls fupksM+k tkrk gS vkSj nsk 

180

9. Solid Border device 

10. Warp beam 

11. Cloth Roller 

12. Shuttle with Pirn 

13. Least rods 

14. Dobby & Jacquared Machine 

Details of Raw Materials 

During the production of Kovai Kora sarees, the Kora silk is used for warp and 

2/100 mercerised yarn is used for weft, and half fine jari is used for making the border 

and putta. 

Warp : While making No. 40 dropping – 20 / 22 denier Kora silk 

While making No. 30 dropping – 18 / 20 denier Kora silk. 

Weft : 2 / 100 s Kora mercerised cotton yarn 

110 s – Kora mercerized cotton yarn 

On certain occasions, 30 / 1000 polyester, 32 / 34 Dussar silk and pure silk are used. 

Border warp : 30 denier half fine Zari 

Pallu and Putta : 50 denier half fine Zari 

In several Tamil Nadu villages, mostly in the western and north-western districts, 

silk worm cocoons are produced. From these cocoons, silk yarn is produced by using the 

processes named “Degumming” and “Reeling”. Un-degummed (RAW) silk yarn is called 

Kora Silk Yarn. Kora silk yarn is purchased from “TANSILK” of the Tamil Nadu 

Government. 

181

ck¡l ds NM+h ftldk vkdkj 3^×11½^ gksrk gS esa ?kqlsM+k tkrk gSA blh chp rk¡ck 

?kM+k ftldk O;kl 2^ vkSj yEckbZ 3½ gksrh gS esa 4 xSyu ikuh dks ikuh dks [kkSyk 

nsus okyh ek=k rd c

Super fine cotton yarns of 80 s , 100 s and 12010 s counts are obtained from superior cotton 

varieties like “SUVIN”. The spinning mills in and around Coimbatore are able to produce 

the high quality yarn because of the salubrious weather there. By twisting 100 counts 

yarn we get 2 / 100 s yarn. In the process of mercerising, all the cotton chips and neps are 

removed and then mercerised in 52° TW heat by mixing Caustic Lye chemical to get 

smooth and fine –finished, shining yarn. The weavers in the GI area get this weft yarn 

from the Spinning Mills in Coimbatore district and also through the Government Co- 

Optex yarn godowns of Tamil Nadu state. 

In Gujarat state, Half-fine Jari is produced in Surat and other areas in Village 

Cottage Industries. To get Half-fine Jari, Super fine Polyester yarn is firstly silver coated 

and then it is Gold coated. This Half-fine Jari is available in Coimbatore market. 

ii) Twisting or Winding 

The Kora silk yarn, which was obtained for producing warp is sent initially for 

twisting or winding, wherein it was made into warps counting about 3,960 - 4800 yarns. 

Initially the Kora silk yarn is wound in little boxes called bobbins. The boxes so windup, 

arranged in order are sent to warping machine, winding them to the extent of the length 

required for preparing the warp. Each 120 yarns were made into a spindle and total warp 

is made into such spindles and the total warp is taken out. 

iii) Dyeing 

The dyeing of the Kora silk yarn is similar to the dyeing for silk 

yarn. Before dyeing, the Kora silk is required to be washed in pure and plain 

water. The kora silk is let immersed in a warm water mixed with dye. After some 

time, a wooden stick is wound up with yarn spindle so as to ensure that all the 

183

tkrk gSA blds ckn js'ke ;kuZ dks ikuh esa rhu ckj /kks;k tkrk gsA /kks;s gq, ikuh 

dks igys ls mi;ksx fd, x

areas of kora silk are properly and uniformly dyed, by using both hands alternately. 

The 2/100 s gas mercerised yarn which is used for weft is dyed in the same manner 

just like No.100 s , No.120 s yarns. 

Dyeing Process: 

1. Boiling the 2/100 s - merceraised yarn in light heated warm water. 

2. Washing the yarn twice in the ordinary cold water. 

3. Mixing the chemicals as needed and dyeing is made. 

4. “Soaping” is made in light heated water. 

5. Again washing the yarn in the ordinary cold water. 

iv. Colours / Dyes Frequently Used 

During the production of kora cotton saree, several colour yarns are used. The 

saree is produced both in light colour and dark colour. Acetic acid is added to make the 

dyes fast. That means the dye colour is not dissolving in water. Sweat from human skin 

cannot also dissolve. Hence, there is no environmental pollution or human health 

problem. Acetic acid is safe. It is commonly called as vinegar, which is produced by 

overnight fermentation of cooked cold rice. Vinegar is a healthy food. 

Dyeing Shades Colours Chemical Used 

Light shade Lavender Vat Purple 2R 

Dassar Vat Brown 2G 

Lemon Yellow GCN 

185

cqukbZ ds fy, vU; inkFkZ vkSj midj.k gS% 

1-

Cement Vat Olive R 

Olive Green B 

Brown 2G 

Cogar Brown BR 

Purple 2R 

Light Sumathi Vat Blue GLN 

Radium 

(Light Green) 

Green XBN 

Yellow GCN 

Vat Blue BC. 

Dark Shade Dark Olive Olive Green B 

Neptal ASG 

Base= Red B 

Red Rc 

PC Blue Vat Peacock XBN 

K Blue KSBO 

Blue BB (Base) 

S Blue Vat Blue BCGN 

Chocolate ASBO – GCC 

Corian B 

187

feyukMq ds dbZ xkaWoksa esa] eq[;r% if”peh vkSj mRrj if”peh ftysa esa 

js”ke dhMksa ds dks’k dk mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA bl dks’k ls] ^fMxfEeax^ vkSj 

^fjfyax^ juke ds izfØ;k }kjk js”ke ;kuZ dk mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA 

xSj&fMxEeM+ js”ke ;kuZ dks dksjk js”ke ;kuZ dgk tkrk gSA rfeyukMq 

ljdkj ds ^rkuflYd%^ ls dksjk js”ke ;kuZ [kjhnk tkrk gSA 

loksZRre dikl fdLe tSls ^lqfou^ ls 80 ,l ]100 ,l vkSj 120 ,l fxurh ds 

mRre lkQ dikl ;kuZ izkIr fd;k tkrk gSA dks;EcRrwj ds vklikl ds lwr 

dkVuk pDdh mRre xq.krk ;kuZ mRiknud jus esa l{ke gS D;ksafd ogka dk 

ekSle vuqdwy gSA 100 fxurh ;kuZ dks ejksM+dj gesa 2@100 ,l ;kuZ feyrk 

gSA ejljkflax ds izfØ;k esa lHkh dikl fpi vkSj usi dks gVk;k tkrk gS vkSj 

ckn esa 52º Vh MCY;w m’.k esa ejljkbt+< fd;k tkrk gS dkWfLVd yb 

jklk;fud dks feykdj rkfd dksey vkSj LoPN lekIr pedrk ;kuZ feysA 

dks;EcRrwj ftyk ds Lihfuax pDdh ls th vkbZ {ks= ds cqudj dks ;g ckuk 

;kuZ feyrk gS vkSj rfeyukMq jkT; ds ljdkj dks&vkIVsDl xksnke ls HkhA 

xqtjkr jkT; esa] lwjr vkSj xkaWo dqVhj m|ksx ds vU; {ks= esa v/kZ lkQ 

tjh dk mRiknu gksrk gSA v/kZ&lkQ tjh dks ikus ds fy,] mRre lkQ 

ikWfyLVj ;kuZ dks igys pkaWnh ls ysi fd;k tkrk gS vkSJ ckn esa Lo.kZ lsA 

;g v/kZ lkQ tjh dks;EcRrwj cktkj esa miyC/k gSA 

2- V~fofLVax ;k okbufMax 

dksjk js”ke ;kuZ tks rkuk ds mRiknu ds fy, izkIr fd;k tkrk gS] tgkW 

bls yxHkx 3960&4800 ;kuZ rkuk fxurh esa cuk;k tkrk gSA igys dksjk 

js”ke ;kuZ dks NksVk cDls ftls ckWfcu dgrs gSa esa owUM fd;k tkrk gSa cDlksa 

dks lesVk tkrk gS] okfiZax e”khu dks dze ls Hkstk tkrk gS] rkuk cukus ds 

fy, vko”;d yEckbZ rd okbafMax fd;k tkrk gSA izfr 120 ;kuZ dks rdqvk 

esa cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj dqy rkuk dks ,sls rdqvk esa cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj dqy 

rkuk dks ,sls rdqvk esa cuk;k tkrk gS vkSj dqy rkuk dks fudkyk tkrk gSA 

3- jaWxkbZ 

dksjk js”ke ;kuZ dh jaWxkbZ js”ke ;kuZ dh jaWxkbZ tSls gh gSA jaWxkbZ ls 

igys dksjk js”ke dks “kq) vkSj lknk ikuh esa /kks;k tkrk gSA jax dks xje 

ikuh esa feykdj mlesa dksjk jks”ke dks nqck;k tkrk gSA dqN le; ckn 

ydM+h ds NM+h ls ;kuZ rdqvk dks ?kqek;k tkrk gS rkfd dksjk js”ke ds lHkh 

188

To avoid pollution, the waste water of Dyeing is processed in the following manner: 

a. Waste water collected in a “Collection Bank”. 

b. Shifting the waste water in a separate tank. 

c. Mixing Poly Electrolite and Pero Sulphate and get the diluted water of 

upper portion of the mixing. 

d. The diluted water is passed in a tank, which contains “SAND”, and then 

another tank contains “CARBON”. 

e. Lastly the water is delivered in streets and rivers. 

v. Warp Preparation 

A task named warp preparation is being done by the weavers, when the twisted 

and dyed warp is furnished for weaving immediately before mounting the warp in the 

loom. For this purpose, a street or public place running to more than 51.50 metrs, which 

is actually the length of a warp required. In the venue of warp preparation, one end of the 

warp is tied with an iron rod and the other end is held by two persons. After elongation of 

full length of warp, they would check the entire warp, and broken yarns would be 

mended. If there is any discontinuity or mess they would be removed. The measurement 

of each saree to be woven will be marked. Thereafter, the warp will be rolled into a 

cylinder, transported to the house of the weaver and fixed properly in the place meant for 

fixing warp cylinder. It takes about 3 hours and 30 minutes to execute this task. 

vi. Piecing the warp 

The task of joining the warp fixed in the cylinder to the old warp 

yarn, which is found in the “Reed” and “Achu” is called “warp piecing”. They used to 

conjoin the old warp yarn and new warp yarn. Generally this work is done by a member 

of the weaver community or his family members. 

189

{ks= dks vPNh rjg vkSj lery

vii. Particulars of measurements in the production of Kovai Cora Cotton 

Total length: 6.3 mts. (Includes the saree length of 5.50 mtrs and blouse piece of 

0.80 meters). 

A warp is used to prepare 8 sarees. The remainder of 1.10 meters in a warp is 

used for warp piecing. 

viii. Pallu 

Saree (Approximate) : 450 gm 

Length of Production of time : 2 days 

No. of sarees produced by a weaver : 16 sarees 

family of 3-4 members in a month 

Incorporating a pallu design is a specialty and generally pallu 

design is woven for about 25-40”. Every pallu design is divided into three parts: In the 

first 6” and last 6” pallu design would look similar, and the pallu design formed in 

between would consist of an ornamental motif or a motif of bird or any aesthetic design. 

The pallu design measuring 25” would be called ordinary pallu design and the design 

measuring 40” would be called “rich pallu design”. 

ix. Putta 

In every saree, putta designs in the sequence of 5 to 7 are woven. 

Putta is woven in two types viz., minor putta or large putta. Generally, an ornamental 

motif or a flower in the figurative design or figure in the pallu is selected for the putta 

design. Minor putta would measure ½” to 1” and major putta 2” to 2½”. 

191

gYdk lqerh oSV ehyk th ,y ,u 

gjk ,Dl ch ,u 

jsfM;e 

ihyk th lh ,u 

gYdk gjk 

oSV uhyk ch lh 

xgjk Nk;k xgjk tSrwu tSrwu gjk ch 

usiVky , ,l th 

csl& yky ch 

yky vkj lh 

ih lh uhyk oSV eksj ,l ch ,u 

ds uhyk ds ,l ch vks 

uhyk ch ch (csl) 

,l uhyk oSV uhyk ch lh th ,u 

pkWdysV , ,l ch vks th lh lh 

dksfj;u ch 

iznw’k.k ls cpus ds fy,] jaWxkbZ ds csdkj ikuh dk fuEufyf[kr

x. Zari 

One marc weighing 242 grams contains 5 bobbins with a length of 2200 to 2400 

yards. Flattened Silver is coiled round filature reeded raw silk conceal the silk thread. 

This silver thread is coated with gold used in the production of Kovai Kora Cotton 

Sarees. Tamil Nadu Zari Ltd., a state owned unit functioning at Kanchipuram, supply the 

zari to Co-operative Societies. 

The Zari contains: 

Silver : 57.00% 

Silk : 24.00% 

Gold : 0.60% 

Copper : 18.40% 

The Zari quality is tested by the Tamil Nadu Zari Ltd, Kancheepuram, a unit of 

Government of Tamil Nadu. If the test results indicate lower contents of the above 

metals, the Zari will be rejected and returned to the manufacturers. Only the Zari with 

correct contents will be used in making the of Kovai Kora Cotton Saree: 

Quality of Kovai Kora Cotton Saree: 

To get the high quality Kovai Cora Cotton Sarees, each registered Co-operative 

Society is having one or two appraisers to check the sarees in all the following quality 

attributes: 

1. Length and width of sarees. 

2. Warp ends and weft picks. 

3. Design infrastructure. 

4. Border ends of the sarees. 

5. Putta numbers. 

6. Clean folding. 

193

eki djsaxsA blds ckn rkuk dks lhfyanj esa Mkyrk tkrk gSA cqudj ds ?kj esa 

ysdj tkrs gS vkSj rkuk lhfyanj dh txg ij vPNh rjg ckaW/kkk tkrk gSA 

;g dk;Z djus esa yxHkx 3 ?kaVk 30 feuV yxrk gSA 

6- rkuk dks fiflax djuk 

lhfyanj ls iqjkus rkuk ;kuZ dks tksM+us dk dk;Z tks ^jhM^ vkSj ^vPNq^ esa 

ik;k tkrk gS dks ^rkuk fiflax^ dgk tkrk gSA os iqjkus rkuk ;kuZ vkSj u;s 

rkuk ;kuZ dks tksM+rs gSA vke rkSj ls ;g dk;Z cqudj leqnk; Fkk ifjokj dk 

lnL; djrs gSA 

7- dksob dksjk dikl dk eki dk fooj.k 

dqy yEckbZ % 6-3 ehVj (ftlesa “kkfey gS lkM+h dh yEckbZ 5-5 ehVj 

vkSj Cykmt ihl dk 0-80 ehVj) 

8 lkMh cukus ds fy, ,d rkuk dk mi;ksx gksrk gSA ckdh 1-10 ehVj 

rkuk dk mi;ksx rkuk fiflax ds fy, gksrk gSA 

8- iYyw 

lkM+h & 450 xzke 

le; dk mRiknu dh yEckbZ % 2 fnu 

3&4 lnL;okys ifjokj 

,d eghus esa mRikfnr 

lkfM;kas dh la[;k % 16 lkM+h 

iYyw fMtkbu dk lekfo’V djuk fof”k’Vrk gS vkSj vke rkSj ls iYyw 

fMtkbu yxHkx 25&40^^ esa cqukbZ dh tkrh gSA gj iYyw fMtkbu dks rhu 

Hkkxksa esa ckaWVk x;k gS % igys 6^^ vkSj vkf[kjh 6^^ esa iYyw fMtkbu ns[kus esa ,d 

leku gksaxs vkSj chp esa cus iYyw fMtkbu esa vyadkfjr dFkkoLrq ;k i{kh 

dFkkoLrq ;k dksbZ yfyr dyk”kkL= fMtkbu gksaxsA iYyw fMtkbu ftldk 

eki 25^^ gksxk dks lkekU; fMtkbu dgsaxs vkSj 40^^ fMtkbu eki dks mRre 

iYyw fMtkbu dgsaxsA 

194







Kovai Kora Cotton saree is a blend of cotton and silk yarns beautifully woven in 

the fine craftsmanship, unsurpassed in the annals of textile history. 

The method of dyeing and the tie and dye method used for the border of Kovai 

Kora Cotton are the trade secrets kept by the people of particular weaving community of 

Coimbatore region. The climate of Coimbatore region ensures that the yarns for the warp 

preparation are not cut. 

Kora Cotton is produced with a minimum manpower of 3 persons. The quality 

dyeing is ensured by using the water of Siruvani and Bhavani rivers, which originate 

from Western Ghats. 

(L) Inspection Body 


Government of Tamil Nadu, which is autonomous and consists of not less than ten 


to control the quality and to maintain the quality of Kovai Kora Cotton Sarees. 

195

9- iqV~Vk 

gj lkM+h esa] Jà[kyk 5 ls 7 dk iqV~Vk fMtkbu cuk;k tk;sxkA iqV~Vk 

nks izdkj ls cukbZ tkrh gS tSls NksVk iqV~Vk ;k cM+k iqV~VkA vke rkSj ls 

iqV~Vk fMtkbu ds fy, vkyadkfjr fo’k;oLrq] Qwy vkd`fr ;k vkd`fr dk 

pquko fd;k tkrk gSa NksVk iqV~Vk dk eki 1@2^^ ls 1^^ vkSj cM+k iqV~Vk dk 

2^6 ls 2 1@2^^ gksrk gSA 

10- t+jh 

,d ekdZ ftldk otu 250 xzke gksrk gS esa 5 ckfcu miyC/k gS ftldh 

yackbZ 2200 ls 2400 ;kMZ gksrs gSaA QysV fd;s x;s flYoj dks Qkbyspj jhM 

fd;s x;s js”ku ds Åij] js”keh /kkxk dks fNikus ds fy, dkby fd;k tkrk 

gSA bl lksus ls dksV fd;s x;s flYoj /kkxk dks dksoS dksjk dikl lkfM;ksa ds 

mRiknu ds fy, mi;ksx fd;ktkrkgSA rfeyukMq tjh fyfeVsM] jkT; Lok;Rr 

bdkbZ tks dkaphiqje esa dk;Zjr gS] dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbfV;ksa dkstjh vkiwfrZ 

djrk gSA 

tjh esa fuEu miyC/k gS 

flYoj 57-00 izfr”kr 

js”ke 24-00 izfr”kr 

lksuk 0-60 izfr”kr 

dkWij 18-40 izfr”kr 

tjh xq.krk dks rfeyukMq tjh fyfeVsM] dkaWphiqje }kjk ijh{K.k 

fd;ktkrk gS tks rfeyukMq ljdkj ds m|e gSA vxj ijh{k.k esa mDr 

[kfutksa dh miyfC/k de fn[kkbZ nsrk gS rks tjh dks frjLdkj fd;k tk,xk 

vkSj mRikndksa dks okil fd;k tk,xkA dksoS dksjk dikl lkfM;ksa dh mRiknu 

ds mfpr tjh dk gh mi;ksx fd;k tk,xkA 

dksob dksjk dikl lkM+h dh xq.krk % 

196

mPp xq.krk ds dksob dksjk dikl lkM+h izkIr djus ds fy,] gj iathd`r 

lgdkfjrk lekt ds ikl ,d ;k nks ewY;kadu djus okys gksrs gS rks lkM+h dh 

xq.krk dh tkaWp fuEufyf[kr vk/kkj ij djrs gS % 

1- lkM+h dh yEckbZ vkSj pkSM+kbZ 

2- rkuk Nksj vkSj ckuk fiDl 

3- fMtkbu

,y- ijh{k.k ckWMh 

dksob dksjk dikl lkMh dh xq.krk dks lqfuf”pr djus rFkk dksoS dksjk 

dikl lkMh dh xq.krk dks fu;a=.k esa j[kus ds fy,] dsUnz rFkk jkT; ljdkjh 

laxBuksa rFkk m|ksxksa dks izfrfuf/kRo djusokys 10 (nl) O;fDr lfEefyr ,d 

Lok;Rr xq.krk fu;a=.k ckWMh dk gSMywe o VsDLVkby foHkkx] rfeyukMq ljdkj lss 

LFkkfir fd;k x;kA 

198

199

200

th vkbZ vkosnu la-92 


Hkkjr }kjk vkj.kh flYd ds jftLVj ds Hkkx , esa] VSDLVkby vkSj VSdLVkby 

lkexzh rFkk diMs ftlesa Øe”k% oxZ 24]25 esa iMusokys lkfM+;kaW vkSj :eky 

lfEefyr gS ds laca/k esa] vkosnu la-92 ds v/khu iathdj.k ds fy, vkosnu fd;k 

tkrk gSA izLrqr vkosnu tks ,rn~}kjk lkexzh dk HkkSxksfyd ladsr iathdj.k o 

lqj{kk) vf/kfu;e 1999 ds /kkjk 13 mi/kkjk 1 ds v/khu Lohd`r foKkfir gSA 



psUuS 108 

izfrfuf/k 


vf/koDrk 

6 ykW psEcj 





psUuS 108 

HkkSxksfyd ladsr % vkj.kh flYd 




201



Nadu.Kuralagam, (II Floor),Chennai - 600 108 India for registration in Part A of the 

register of “Arani Silk” under Application No 92 in respect of Textiles and Textile 

goods, and Clothing including Sarees and Rumal falling in Class 24, and 25 respectively 

is hereby advertised as accepted under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical 

Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. 





Advocate 




Address Departmentof Handlooms and Textiles, 



Chennai - 600 108 

Geographical Indication : Arani Silk 


Goods : Textiles and Textile goods, and Clothing 

including Sarees. 

202






psUuS 600 108 

lh- O;fDr;ksa@mRikndksa@ laxBu@ izkf/kdkjh % laxBu@ izkf/kdj.k 

Øe la lkslkbVh dk uke o irk 

1- n vkj.kh flYe gSMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh ,p ,p 

106] 29 osniwj bZ”ojj dksbZy LVªhV] dksliky;e] vkj.kh 

632301 fr#o..kkeyS ftyk] rfeyukMq 

2- n v..kS vatqxe flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo lkslkbVh 

fyfV] ds ,p 50] 58 ,] lqUnje LVªhV] dksliky;e] 

vkj.kh 632 301 fr#o..kkeyS ftyk] rfeyukMq 

3- n vkj.kh n;kyk vEesS;kj flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo 

lkslkbVh fyfeVsM] oh ,p-52] 75] R;kxh lqczef.k;e LVªhV] 

dksliky;e] vkj.kh 632 301 fr#o..kkeyS ftyk] rfeyukMq 

4- n dksjdrwj vfjKj v..kk flYd gSaMywe oholZ dks&vkijsfVo 

lkslkbVh fyfeVsM] ds ,p 186] la-2@42] fr# oh d LVªhV] 

dksrqdRrwj xkaWo] ps;~;kj Vh ds] fr#o..kkeyS ftyk 

fdlh Hkh lkslkbVh ;k vlksfl;s”ku ftUgsa igys gh LFkkfir fd;k x;k gks ;k ftUgs 

th vkbZ- jftLVªh dks lefiZr fd;k x;s igpkus x;s {ks=h; lhekvksa ds v/khu 

(uD”kk) Hkfo’; es LFkkfir fd;k tk,xk] dkuwuh vko”;drkvksa dks vuqikyu 

djus ij] th-vkbZ ekdZ dks mi;ksx djus gdZ gksaxs A 

Mh- lkexzh dk izdkj % mRikfnr lkexzh VsDLVkby 

203






Chennai - 600 108 



Authority : Organization / authority : 

S.No Name & Address of the Societies 

1 The Arani Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society H.H. 106. 

29 Vedapuri Eswarar Koil Street, 

Kosapalayam, Arani – 632 301. 

Tiruvannamalai district, Tamil Nadu 

2 The Annai Anjugam Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd. 

K.H.50, 

58 A Sundaram Street, 



3 The Arani Dhayala Ammaiyar Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative 

Society Ltd., V.H. 52, 

75, Thiyagi Subramaniyam Street, 



4 The Korakathur Aringer Anna Silk Handloom Weavers Co-operative 

Society Ltd., K.H.186. No. 2/42, Thiru Vi – Ka Street, Kotukathur Village 

Cheiyar T.K 

Thiruvannamalai Dist. 

Any other societies or associations that are already established or that will be established in future 

Within the identified territorial limits (map) submitted to G.I Registry will also become eligible to 

use the G.I mark upon the said goods by complying with the requirements under law 


204

Z- fofufnZf’Vdj.k % 

rhu izdkj ds vkj.kh js”keh lkMh dk fofunsZ”k fuEufyf[kr izdkj gS % 

1- MkWch izdkj dk 

2- dksoSZ izdkj dk 

3- Lo ckMZj izdkj dk 

Øe 

la 

fooj.k MkWch izdkj dk dksoSZ izdkj dk Lo ckMZj izdkj 

dk 

1- yackbZ 5-50 ehVj 5-50 ehVj 5-50 ehVj 

2- pkMkbZ 46^^117 lseh 46^^117 lseh 46^^117 lseh 

3- dksus@bap 110 100 100 

4- fiDl@bap 120 70 (3 IykbZ) 70 (3 IykbZ) 

5- rkus dk dkSaV 19@21 Msfu;j 19@21 Msfu;j 19@21 Msfu;j 

6- osQ~V dkmaV 20@22Msfu;j 20@22Msfu;j 20@22 Msfu;j 


fofufnZf’Vdj.k 

v- mi;ksfxr lkexzh 

vk- fMtkbu fuekZ.k 

esa mi;ksfxr dksus 

dh la[;k 

fMt+kbu fuekZ.k 

QysV “kqn~/k t+jh 

20 dqfyxS 

1 dqfyxS 4 tjh 

dksus 

205 

QysV “kqn~/k tjh 

50 dqfyxS ls 

120 dqfyxS 


dksus 

QysV “kqn~/k 

tjh 

50 dqfyxS ls 

120 dqfyxS 


dksus


SI. 

NO 

The following are the Specifications for the Three kinds of ARANI SILK SAREE: 

1. Dobby variety 

2. korvai variety 

3. self border variety 

PARTICULARS DOBBY 

VARIETY 

KORVAI 

VARIETY 

S ELF 

BORDER 

VARIETY 

1 Length 5.50 Mtrs 5.50Mtrs 5.50 Mtrs 

2 Width 46”117 cms 46”117 cms 46”117 cms 

3 Ends/Inch 110 100 100 

4 Picks/Inch 100 70 (3 ply) 70 (3 ply) 

5 Coconut of Warp 19/21 Denier 19/21 Denier 19/21 Denier 

6 Count of Weft 20/22 Denier 20/22 Denier 20/22 Denier 

7 

BORDER DESIGN 

SPECIFICATION 

a. Material used 

b. No.of ends used 

indesign formation 

Design formation: 


20 Kuligai 

1 Kuligai 

4 Zari ends 


50 Kuligai to 

120 Kuligai 

1 Kuligai 

4 Zari ends 


200 Kuligai to 

300 Kuligai 

1 Kuligai 

4 Zari ends 

The Central Silk Board has indicated the differences between pure 

silk and Art silk as follows: 



burns slowly 


smell 


rough surface 



powder 

206 


continuously 


paper smell 



• The ash is amorphous 

in nature




tykuk & tyrk gS ij /khjs /khjs 


gks tkrk gSA 


xa/k vkrh gS 












js”keh dk HkkSfrd y{k.k 

&vkdkj 

gSA 

& ped 

gSA 

gSA 


tyrk jgrk gSA 










gSA 



/kheh gS 

js”ke dk f=dks.kh; vkdkj dzkl lsD”ku gkrk gS ftudk dksus jkmaMM gksrs 



207



comparatively 




Physical Properties of Silk 






recovering is rather 

slow. 

• Shape 


• Lustre 







slippery 

• Denier 

4.5 g/d (dry); 2.8-4.0 g/d (wet) 

Mechanical Properties of Silk 

• Strength 








208


js”ke Qkbcj esa nqcZy dofjax “kfDr miyC/k gSA ;g irys fQyesaV 

fuekZ>k ds dkj.k gSA 

& gkFk 



& Msfu;j 



&”kfDr 






& iyVko 









209

Chemical Properties of Silk 















(F) Name of the geographical indication & particulars: 

ARANI SILK 

( G) Description of Goods: 

Dobby Variety 

Traditionally the silk sarees woven in Arani were called DOBBY variety. These 

sarees were woven by using DOBBY with single thread warp (yarn running horizontally) 

and single thread weft (yarn running vertically). The border has thin line of Zari (gold 

thread). The saree weighs about 300 grams. 

Korvai Variety (One Side And Double Side) 

Anticipating customer’s willingness for new designs, the technique of interlacing 

the body and border part of the saree, to give solid colour border which is known as 

contrast weaving (KORVAI) was introduced. The body and border of the saree has 

different colours. Again single warps were used for these sarees. The weight about 450 to 

600 gms. This Korvai Border Saree is produced in one side or Double side of the silk 

sarees. 

210




Self Border Variety 

Sarees woven either with one side or double side border, but without interlacing 

(korvai) the body and border is known as self border Saree. This may be woven either 

with single warp or double warp with single weft or multiples up to 3 strands. 

(H) Geographical area of Production and Map as shown in page no 224. 

Arani is located at 12.67° N 79.28° E[1] on the banks of the Kamandala Naaga river. It 

has an average elevation of 151 metres (495 feet).It is located about 40 km from Vellore 

and 60 km from Thiruvannamalai and 142 kms from chennai. 

The Arani Silk production is extended to the area as shown in the Map in page no 224 

.The main centers of the location where the Arani Silk is manufactured includes: 

1. S.V.Nagaram 

2. Kanigilipai 

3. Mamandur 

4. Panayur 

5. Katteri 

6. Aathimalaipattu 

7. Sevoor 

8. M ullipattu 

9. Vannankulam 

10. Adayapulam 

11. Panayaur 

12. Payyur 

13. Irumbedu 

14. Saidapettai 

15. Naikanpalayam 

16. Kannamangalam 

17. Mullandram and 

all villages included in Arani Taluk. 


Arani means a village made beautiful by rivers. In Tamil “Aru” means River and 

“Arani” means Beautification. Any one, who happens to travel to Arani would 

necessarily have to cross many rivers. This town is remembered mainly for the fine silk 

sarees produced here from time immemorial. In this regard, the Imperial Gazetteers of 

India Provincial series – Madras – II – Published in 1908, has stated that “A considerable 

industry in the manufacture of silk and cotton fabrics is carried on in the town (Arani)”. 

212

Lo ckMZj izdkj 

,d ik”oZ o f}ik”oZ ckMZokys lkfM;kaW ftuesa dysoj vkSj ckMZj 

vUrjxzfUFkr gS] mUgsa Lo ckMZj lkfM;kaW dgk tkrk gSA bUgsa ;k rks bdgjs rkuk 

;k nksgj rkus vkj bdgjs rkus ds lkFk bdgjs ckus esa ;k rhu rUrqvksa ds tksM 

ls cquk;k tkrk gSA 

,p- mRiknu ds HkkSxksfyd foLrkj vkSj i`’B la- 224 esa nf”kZr ekufp= 

vkj.kh 12-67^ mRrj 79-28^ iw (1) esa de.My (1) esa de.My ukx unh ds rV 

ij gSA mldkl vkSlr mBku 151 ehVj (495 QqV) gSA osYywj ls 40 fd 

ehVj dh nwjh ij fr#o..kkeyS ls 60 fdyksehVj vkSj psUubZ ls 142 fd ehVj 

dh nwjh ij gSA 

vkj.kh js”keh mRiknu ls lacaf/kr HkkSxksfyd {ks= rFkk uD”kk dks i`’B la- 224 

esa fn[kk;s vuqlkj foLrkj fd;k x;k gS 

{ks=ksa dk eq[; dsUnz tgkaW vkj.kh js”keh dk mRiknu fd;k tk jgk gS mlesa 

fuEu lfEefyr gSA 

1- vkj.kh 

2- ,l oh uxje 

3- efufxfyikbZ 

4- eke.Mwj 

5- iu;wj 

6- dVSjh 

7- vFkheySiV~Vq 

8- lsowj 

9- eqfyiV~Vq 

10- oUukudqye 

11- vM;kiqye 

12- iu;wj 

13- iS;wj 

14- b#ecsMq 

15- lSnkisV~VS 

16- uk;Dduiky;e 

17- dUueaxye 

18 eqYyUnze vkSj vkj.kh rkyqe esa lfEefyr lHkh xkaWo 

213

In the book entitled “A manual of North Arcot District in the Presidency of Madras”, 

compiled by Arthur F. Cox (1881), it has been stated about the glorious tradition of silk 

weaving in the following words: - 

“There are upwards of a 1000 looms, distributed among 14 villages, and producing some 

2,00,000 women’s clothes in a year worth about Rs.7, 50,000/-. The best fabrics are 

woven in Arani itself, where they are made of a mixture of silk and cotton and are much 

worne by more wealthy Brahmin Women”. 

In the “History of North Arcot District” by Vellore M. Gunasekaran, it has been observed 

with regard to the weaving of Arani Silk Saree, as 

“During the year 1920 A.D, the handloom weaving, having been made certain 

modifications by Karigiri Mouna Gurusamy, had been introduced in several villages of 

North Arcot District. Then the branch of silk weaving was established at Walajah and 

then at Arani”. 

The following documents have been produced in support of proof of origin. 

Manual – North Arcot District, Madras Presidency – Arthur F. Cox, M.C.S., 1881 

Imperial Gazetteer of India – Provincial Series – Govt. Printing, Calcutta, 1908. 

Articles of The Hindu – dt.06.11.1999, dt.22.04.2005 

North Arcot District History – M.Gunasekaran, Vellore. 


1. Raw materials 

Mulberry silk, which is drawn from the mulberry silkworm cocoons of CB Race 

of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, is being twisted so as to suit the preparation of Arani 

silk sarees and transferred into warp and weft. 

Warp – Twisted and dyed silk yarn 19 / 21 Deniers. 

Warp – Twisted and dyed silk yarn 20 / 22Deniers. 

Pure silver Zari coated with Gold. The percentage of the composition is as follows 

Gold ; 0.60% 

Silver : 57.00% 

Copper : 18.40% 

Silk : 24.00% 

2. Warping and Sizing (Twisting) 

19/21 Denier Silk twisted and prepared as Warp. 

20/22 Denier silk twisted and prepared as Weft. 

To produce that Traditional Dobby variety of Arani silk sarees warp is prepared 

for 22 meters of length to make the total length 4 sarees consisting of 5540 threads in the 

Width. 

214

vkbZ- ewyRo dk izek.k (,sfrgkfld vfHkys[k) 

vkj.kh “kCn dk eryc gS unh }kjk vyad`r xkWoA rfey esa vk# “kCn 

unh lwpd gS vkSj bl rjg ^vkj.kh^ “kCn unh }kjk “kksHkk;eku xkaWo dk vFkZ 

nsrk gSa vkj.kh igqaWpus ls igys vki dks dbZ ufn;kaW ikj djuh gksxhA ;g 

dLck viuh fof”k’V js”keh lkfM;ksa ds fy, izfln/k gSA bl laca/k esa 

bEihfj;y xt+V vkWQ bf.M;k izksfofU”;y lhjht+] enzkl Hkkx 2 1908 esa 

izdkf”kr esa fy[kk x;k gSA bl dLcs esa (vkj.kh) js”keh vkSj dikl ds cus 

oL=ksa dk ,d vPNk [kkl mn~;ksx py jgk gSA 

^,d gtkj ls Hkh vf/kd dj/ks pkSng xkaWoksa esa gS vkSj 2]00]000 vkSjrksa ds 

diMs :i;s 7]50]000 ewY; ds rS;kj gksrs gSaA vkj.kh esa gh loksZRre diMs cus 

tkrs gSA ;gkaW js”ke vkSj dikl fefJr diM+s rS;kj gksrs gS rFkk le`n~/k 

czkg~e.k fL+=;kaW bUgsa igurh gS A 

osYywj ,e xq.k”ks[kju }kjk fyf[kr ^mRrj vkdkZM ftys dk bfrgkl^ 

uked d`fr esa vkj.kh ds js”keh lkfM;ksa dh cqukbZ ds ckjs esa fuEufyf[kr 

izdkj crk;k x;k gSA 

^1920 bZloha ds nkSjku dkjhfxfj ekSu xq#Lokeh }kjk gFkdj/ksk cqukbZ esa dqN 

vk”kks/ku mRrjvkdkZM ftys ds dbZ xkaWoksa esa yk;s x;sA fQj js”ke dh cqukbZ 

dk dke igys okyktk esa vkSj ckn esa vkj.kh esa LFkkfir fd;k x;kA^^ 

ewyYo ds izek.k esa fuEufyf[kr dkxt+kr is”k fd;s x;s gS 

eSuqvy & ukFkZ vkdkZV ftyk] enzkl izsflMsUlh vkFZjj ,Q dkWDl] ,elh,l 

1881 

bEihfj;y xstVhj vkWQ bafM;k & izksfofU”;y lhjht & xouZesaUV fizfUVax] 

dksydRrk 1908 

n fgUnw esa 6-11-1999] fn 22-4-2005 

ukFkZ vkdkZM ftyk bfrgkl & ,e xq.k”ks[kju] osYywj 

215

3. Degumming 

Warp and weft raw silk contains silk gum (sericin) which constitutes about 20% 

to 30% of its total weight. Unless the gum is completely removed, silk does not exhibit its 

characteristic luster, smoothness as well as softness and tends to dye unevently. 

The process of removing gum from silk is known as degumming, the term of 

“boiling off” is sometimes used for this process. The common method of removing gum 

from raw silk is to treat it in a hot solution of soap which is the best degumming agent. 

Soap removes silk-gum almost completely, whithout affecting the fibre and helps in 

keeping the impurities is suspension. The soap used for degumming should be of good 

quality and as neutral as possible. The presence of any appreciable quantity of free alkali 

in the degumming bath is undesirable, particularly when degumming silk as it is likely to 

weaken the fibre. Sometime both soap and soda ash are used for degumming silk. 

4. Dyeing 

The warp and weft are dyed with necessary colours, let to dry and furnished for 

production.The de-gummed silk is dyed with required colour. To increase the colour 

fastness the dyed silk is dipped in Acetic Acid mixed water and let to dry. In view of this, 

the colour is not washed down in water, and eventually there is no pollution or helalth 

hazard. 

5. Warp Preparation 

The warp, which is dyed and furnished for production, before mounting to a loom, 

is subjected to warp preparation by weavers. The warp is tightly tethered to the wooden 

poles on either side of the venue, meant for warp preparation and the yarns cut are 

checked. Then the warp is dipped in porridge/ rich kanji mixed with water, let to dry to 

season them to endure the weaving and rolled into warp cylinder. The weavers would 

complete this work in about two hours. Three or four persons would do the work in 

streets or farms. 

6. Warp Piecing 

The warp, which was prepared and rolled in the cylinder, is joined with the warp 

yarns already left after weaving in the read, by matching each filament. Generally, this 

would be done by a member of the weaver’s family. 

7. Weaving 

There are two types of looms in the Arani area 1-Pit Looms 2-Frame Looms. 

Mainly Arani dobby sarees are produced in the Pit looms. Korvai one side and double 

side with zari and silk border sarees are woven in the Frame looms, by utilizing jacquard 

boxes.The sarees are measuring length 5.50, 6.20, 8.25 Meters with a width of 117 cms. 

216

ts- mRiknu dh rjhdk 

1-dPph lkexzh 

eycsjh flYd] eycsjh js”ke ds dhMksa ds fMEck ls vkgj.k fd;k tkrk gSa 

;g rfeyukMq vkSj dukzVD ds lh ch jsl ds js”ke ds dhMksa ds fMEc gSa bUgsa 

?kqeko fQjko }kjk] dlko fnyku }kjk vkj.kh js”ke dh lkfM;ksa ds rkus ckus cuk;s 

tkrs gSA 

rkuk & ?kqeko fQjko fd;s x;s vkSJ jsaxu fd;s x;s js”keh lwr 15@21 Mhuk;j 

dk 

ckuk &^ ?kqeko fQjko fd;s x;s vkSj jaxu fd;s x;s js”keh lwr 20@21 Mhuk;j dk 

fo”kqn~/k pkaWnh Lo.kZ ysfir dke esa yk;h tkrh FkhAA lek;ksx dk izfr”kr 

fuEufyf[kr izdkj gS 

Lo.kZ % 0-60 izfr”kr 

pkaWnh % 57-00 izfr”kr 

rkack % 18-40 izfr”kr 

js”ke % 24-00 izfr”kr 

2- ckuk cukuk vkSj vkdkj fu/kkZfjr djuk (?kqeko fQjko ) 

19@21 Mhuk;j js”ke ?kqeko fQjko okyk rkus ds :i esa cuk;k x;k 

20@22 chuk;j js”ke ?kqeko fQjko okyk ckus ds :i esa cuk;k x;k 

ikjEifjd MkWch izdkj ds vkj.kh js”ke lkfM;ksa ds fy, rkuk 22 ehVj yEckbZ dk 

rs;kj fd;k tkrk gS tks 5540 rUrq pkSM+kbZ pkj lkfM+;ksa dks cukus ds fy, fu;r 

gS 

3- MhxfEeax djuk 

dPps js”ke ds rkus ckus esa xksan rRo (lsfjflu) gksrk gS tks dqy otu dh 20 

izfr”kr ls 30 izfr”kr dk gksrk gSA xksan rro dks iwjh rjg gVkus ij gh js”ke 

esa ped vk ldrh gS] lfpd.krh vk ldrh gSA e`nqy gksdj jaxu ds fy, rS;kj 

gks ldrk gSA 

217

Loom Accessories 

Reed: It is an important accessory through which the warp thread passes. Made 

out of either bamboo or steel, reed plays a major role in determining the texture of the 

fabric. The dimension varies according to the end product. Generally for saree, it is 50” 

wide and 4 cms in height. Ever inch is divided in to 60 dents through which the thread 

passes. Number of warp ends is based on this calculation only. 

Healds: The warp in warp beam is brought to the weaver’s side through the 

headls in the reed. Traditionally, cotton healds were used. Now nylon healds are used for 

extended lifetime of the healds. 

Jala: Jala is a design making tool which enables to place and weave motifs on 

the saree. The design is plotted in a graph sheet and it is related to the thread which 

carries the design on the loom warp threads when lifted. The design forms on the saree 

when the corresponding warp threads are lifted and weft is inserted. Design making in 

Jala is more laborious and has limited scope. 

Jaquard: Jaquard boxes are indeed a boon to textile industry. While Jala has 

limited scope of designing, Jaquard boxes has unlimited scope. Minimum hooks in a 

Jaquard box are 120 Hooks. The Warp is connected to the hooks with the help of nylon 

threads. The plotted graph is converted as Jaquard cards. The card rests on the cylinder in 

the Jaquard box, thereby controlling the warp to lift according to the design. 

Product Quality Control: 

To get the high quality Arani silk sarees, each registered Co-operative Society is having 

one or two appraisers to check the sarees in all the following quality attributes: 

1. Length and width of sarees.2. Number of ends and Number of picks 3.Design 

infrastructure. 

4. Number of border ends of the sarees 5.Number of puttas 6.Selvedges. 7. Clean 

folding. 






Water Quality 

Water Quality Test done at the Chemical Testing and Analytical Laboratory, Department 

of Industries and Commerce, Government of Tamil Nadu, Chennai shows the samples of 

river water and Bore well water which were used for Degumming, Bleaching, Dyeing, 

Washing, etc. having the pH in the normal range of 7.21 to 7.69. The electrical 

218

js”ke ls xksan gVkus dh in~/kfr dks ge MhxfEeax dgrs gSaA js”ke dks xje 

lkcqu ds lfEeJ.k esa fHkxksdj fudkyuk gh loksZRre rjhdk gSA lkcqu js”keh xksan 

dks iwjh rjg gVkrk gS vkSj v”kqfn~/k;ksa dks vyx fuyfEcr dj nsrk gSA vPNs 

izdkj ds fo”kqn~/k :i esa rS;kj lkcqu dks gh viukuk pkfg;sA js”ke dks Mqcksus 

okys /kkjd esa vf/kd {kkjrRo gksuk vfiz; gS [kldj xksan gVkrs le; D;ksafd blls 

js”ke dh rUrq det+ksj gks tkrh gSA dHkh dHkh lkcqu vkSj lksMk ,s”k nksuksa dks 

MhxfEeax esa dke esa yk;k tkrk gSA 

4- jaxu 

rkusu ckus dks vko”;d jaxksa ls ljaxk tkrk gS] bls lq[kk;k tkrk gS vkSj 

mRiknu ds fy,rS;kj fd;k tkrk gSA Mhxe (xksns “; x;s) fd;s x;s js”ke dk 

okafNr jaxksa jesa jaxu fd;k tkrk gSA jax ds iDdiu dks lqfuf”pr djus ds fy, 

jxs x;s js”ke dksk ,flfVd vey fefJr ikuh esa fHkxks;k tkrk gS] mUgsa lhlu 

fd;k tkrk gS rkfd os cqukbZ dks lek lds vkSJ fQj rkus dks csyukdkj yisVK 

tkrk gSA cqudkj bl dke dks nks Z?kaVs esa iwjk djrs gSA rhu ;k pkj yksx bl dke 

esa lMd ij ;k ckx esa yxrs gSaA 

5- rkuk LFkkiu 

esyukdkj rS;kj rkus dks iwoZ ls vof”k’V lwr ds lkFK tksMk tkrk gS 

ftlesa izR;sd rRurq dks eSp fd;k tkrk gSA lekU; rFkk cqudkj ds ifjokj dk 

,dO;fDR bl dke esa yxrk gSA 

6- cqukbZ 

vkj.kh {ks= esa nks izdkj ds dj/ks gSA 1- fiV dj/ks vkSj 2- Qzse dj/ksA fiV 

dj/ks esavkj.kh Mkch lkfM;kaW rS;kj dh tkrh gSA dksosSZ ,d ik”oZ vkSj nksgkjk 

ik”oZ tjh o js”ke ds ckMZjokyh lkfM;ksa dks tkdkMZ isVh dke esa ykdV Qzse 

dj/kksa esa cquk tkrk gSA ;s lkfM;kaW 5-50] 6-20 o 8-25 ehVj yEckbZ dh gksrh gS vkSj 

pkSM+kbZ 117 lsUVhehVj gksrh gSA 

dj/ks ds tksM 

jhM % ;g ,d egRoiw.kZ tksMgSA blds tfj;s rkus dh rUrq tkrh gSA ;g yksgs dh 

;k ckal dh cuk gksrh gSA olUr ds Vsd”pjp dks (cukoV dks) fu/kkZfjr djus esa 

jhM dh egRoiw.kZ vnkdkjh gS vfUre mRikn ds vuqlkj vk;ke cnyrs gSA 

llkekU;rk lkfM;ksa ds fy, ;g 50^^ pkSMk vkSj pkj ls ehVj ÅaWpk gksrk gSA gj 

219

conductivity of river water is low (0.39m/mhos) and within the permissible limit of less 

than 1.0. But the electrical conductivity of bore well water is very high (2.4 m/mhos) 

The total solids, total dissolved solids, total suspended solids, organic solids and the inorganic 

solids all are very high in the bore well water compared to river water. 

These attributes have led to high total hardness, calcium hardness and magnesium 

hardness in the bore well water. 

water. 

Similarly the alkalinity, chlorides and sulphates are also higher in the bore well 

The quality assurance for colour fastness, shining, and the texture of the silk fibre 

can be ensured by using the good quality water from the river Kamandala Naga Nathi. 


(1) Dobby varieties,double side borders,intricate designs,twisted yarn,specialized 

weaving in border designs and extensive zari work are the distinctive features of 

Arni silk sarees. 

(2) ‘Arani Dobby’ sarees are prepared as plain in body and ‘Arani’ Seer used in pallu. 

(3) In ‘Korvai’ one side sarees are prepared with a separate border with Jari design 

having weight up to 600 gm. 

(4) Arani saree is light weight. 



Government of Tamil Nadu which is autonomous and consists of not less than ten 


to control the quality and to maintain the quality of Arani Silks. 

220

ap esa 60 MsUV gksrs gS ftuds t+fj;slwr tkrh gSA fdrus rkus ds Nksj gksaxs bldkl 

fu/kkZj.k blhds }kjk fd;k tkrk gSA 

ghYM (rkuk) dkj rkus ds MaMs esa jgusokyk rkuk cqudj ds ik”oZ esa yk;k tkrk gS 

;s ghYM }kjk tk;k tkrk gSA ikjLifjd :i esa dikl ds ghYM dke esa yk;s tkrs 

FksA vc ckbyhu ds ghYM dke esa yk;s tkrs gS rkfd rkukdkjksa dks vkkSJ vf/kd 

dk;Zdky izkIr gksxkA 

tkyk % tkyk fMt+kbZu cukus okyk midj.k gS ftlsl :ikd`fr;ksa dks lkfM;ksa esa 

fMt+kbu djds yxk;k tk ldrk gSA fMt+kbu ,d xzkQ “khV esa igys cuk;k 

tkrk gS vkSj ;g fM+tkbu dks dj/ks esa ys tkusokys rUrq dh enn djrk gS tc 

rkuk rUrqvksa dks Åij mBkuk tkrk gSA rkus ckus esa fMt+kbu ds rUrq dks tksMk 

tkrk gSA tkyk esa fMt+kbu cukuk cgqr gh Jelkg; gS vkSJ bldh lEHkkouk,aW Hkh 

lhfer gSA 

tkdkMZ 

oL= mn~;ksx ds fy, tkdkMZ ckDl ,dojnku gSA tkyk esa fMtkbrksa dh cl 

lhfer laHkkouk,aW gS ij tkdkMZ lEHkkouk,aW dkQh foLr`r gSA tkdkMZ ckDl esa 

fuEure 120 [kaWVs gksaxsA ukbyksu FkzsMksa ds tfj;s rkus dks [kwaWVksa ds lkFk tksMk 

tkrkgSA xzkQ esa cuk;k x;k fMt+kbu dks tkdkMZ dkMksZa esa cny fn;k tkrk gSA 

tkdkMZ cDlk esa flfy.Mj ij dkMZ fVdk jgrk gS vkSj bl rjg rkus dks fMt+kbu 

ds eqrkfcd rkus dks mBk;k tk ldrk gSA 

mRikn xq.koRrk fu;U=.k 

mPp dksfV ds vkj.kh js”keh lkfM;ksW ikus ds fy, izR;sd iathd`r lgdkjh 

lfefr esa ,d ;k nks ewY;kadu vf/kdkjh gksrs gS tks lkfM;ksa dh fuEufyf[kr 

xq.kfoRrkvksa dks ewY;kadu djrs gS 

1- lkfM;ksa dh yEckbZ pkSMkbZ 

2- fdrus Nksj vkSj fdrus fid 

3- vfHkdYi (fMtkbu) vUrLlLprk 

4- lkfM;ksa ds czfM Nksj dh la[;k 

5- fdrus iV~Vs gS 

6- LokRed Nksj 

7- Bhd orjg dk QksfYMax 


xq.koRrk vk/kkj rRoksa ij mRikfnr js”keh lkfM;ksa dh xcq.koRrk dks vk”oLr dj 

ysus ds fy, dsUnzh; flYd cksMZ ds ^flYd ekxZ ^ &(js”ke vdsu) dke esa yk;k 

tkrk gSA ;g,d ljy Toyk (flafiy Qyse) ijh{k.k o lwjik.kqoh{k.k ;a= }kjk 

ijh{k.kk ls fd;k tkrk gS ftlls oL= dh fo”kqfn~/k dk izek.ku gks ldsA dqN gh 

iyksa esa ifj.kke vk tkrk gS vxj oL= /khjs /khjs tyrk gS vkSj dky vo”ks’k 

fudyrk gS rFkk tys ds”k dh xU/k vkrh gS rks og “kqn~/k js”ke gSA 

tykRed xq.koRrk 

rfeyukMq ljdkj psUubZ ds mn~;ksx o okf.kT; foHkkx ds jklk;fud ijh{k.k 

o fo”ys’k.k iz;ksx “kkyk esa tykRed xq.koRrk ijh{k.k fd;k tkrk gSA unh ty o 

dq,aW ds ty nksuksa MhxfEeax xksan gVkus ds dke esa fy;s tkrs gSaA ;s Cyhfpax] jaxu 

/kqykbZ oxSjg ds dkeksa es aHkh iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gSA lkekU; 7-21 ls 7-69 jsat es 

a;g dke fd;k tkrk gS aunh ds ikuh dks fctyh lokgdRo de gksrk gSa (0-39 

,d@,d ,p vks ,l) vkSj vuqer lhek 1-0 ls de jgrk gSA ij dq,aW dh ikuh 

dh lokgdRo cgqr ÅaWpk gksrk gS (2-4 ,e@,e ,p vks ,l) 

dqy Bksl] dqy /kqys gq, Bksl dqy fuyfEcr Bksl dkcZfud Bksl vkSj 

vdkcZfud Bksl vkfn dq, ds ikuh esa unh ds ikuh dh rqyuk esa vf/kd jgrk gSA 

bu fufgr xq.kksa ds dkj.k dqy mPp dMkiu dSfY”;e dMkiu vkSj 

eSXuhf”k;e dMkiu dq,aW ds ikuh esa gksrk gSA 

blh rjg {kkj rRo] DyksjkbV vkSj lYQsV Hkh dq,aW dh ikuh esa vf/kd 

iDds jax] ped vkSj js”keh lwr dh VsDLpj vkfn dksk unh de.My u, ds 

loZPN ty ds mi;skx ls c

3- dksosZ ,d ik”oZokyh lkfM;ksa esa vyx ckMZj t+jh ds fMt+kbu ds lkFk 

gksrk gS vkSj bldk otu 600 xzke rd gksrk gS 

4- vkj.khk lkfM;kaW gYds otu9 dh gS 

,y- fujh{k.k ny 

rfeyukMq ljdkj ds gFkdj/ks o oL= foHkkx esa ,d xq.koRrk fu;U=.k 

fudkl dks LFkkfir fd;k gSA ;g ,d Lok;Rr fudk; gS vkSj blesa de ls de 

nl lnL; gksrs gSA ;s lnL; dsUnz ljdkj vkSj jkT; ljdkj ds laxBuksa vkSj 

mn~;ksxksa }kjk ukfer gksrs gS rkfd xq.koRrk ij fuxjkuh j[k lds vkSj ^vkj.kh 

js”ke^ ds ij pe dks cqyUn j[k ldsA

Journal 22 & 23 - Controller General of Patents, Designs, and Trade ...

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