By LAN SLUDER - Belize First Magazine
By LAN SLUDER - Belize First Magazine
By LAN SLUDER - Belize First Magazine
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RAMBLES<br />
AROUND<br />
BELIZE<br />
2011<br />
<strong>By</strong> <strong>LAN</strong> <strong>SLUDER</strong><br />
Photos by Rose Lambert-Sluder
Here are some notes from my Rambles Around <strong>Belize</strong> during June 2011:<br />
THE MARKET BELIZE IS MISSING<br />
• I know that <strong>Belize</strong> gets a lot of “adventure tourism” – younger, fairly fit folks who come to<br />
<strong>Belize</strong> for diving, caving, hiking and other active outdoor activities. That’s great, but I think<br />
<strong>Belize</strong> hotels and tourism operators are missing a bet by not offering more for us older, less fit<br />
(okay, let’s not mince words, fat) tourists. <strong>Belize</strong> accommodations and tour facilities are really<br />
not set up for visitors who don’t like to climb several flights of stairs to their room, or who would<br />
prefer not to have to bend double to get into a small airplane with a 4-foot high ceiling. Handicap<br />
access? Forget it, for the most part. Yet the world is getting older and less physically fit. In the<br />
U.S., example, one in eight Americans is 65 or older. In Japan and much of Western Europe,<br />
one-fifth of the population is 65 or older. The incidence of health problems that affect mobility<br />
such as arthritis and hip and knee problems is rising rapidly. And of course obesity is a major<br />
problem worldwide. The World Heath Organization estimates that there are 1 billion overweight<br />
people in the world, more than 300 million of them clinically obese. The problem is even more<br />
acute in places that, uh, feed <strong>Belize</strong> tourism, including the U.S., Canada and much of Western<br />
Europe. There’s a huge market out there of affluent older and less fit travelers who would love to<br />
experience <strong>Belize</strong> … if it had more elevators, more handicap-friendly facilities and more suitable<br />
transportation options.<br />
Tropical Paradise hotel in Caye Caulker<br />
THE SOUTH RISES AGAIN<br />
• Until now I had never really paid much attention to how many tourists to <strong>Belize</strong> are from the<br />
U.S. South. A big part of the reason of course is that the major airline gateways to <strong>Belize</strong> are in<br />
the South -- Houston, DFW, Miami, Atlanta and Charlotte. From most other destinations you<br />
have to fly a connecting flight from your home city to one of these gateways, and then you<br />
probably will fly or do another type of transfer from <strong>Belize</strong> City to wherever you're going in<br />
<strong>Belize</strong>. So visitors from anywhere but in the immediate areas around the Southern gateways have<br />
a three-leg trip to their destination in <strong>Belize</strong>. Which makes travel to <strong>Belize</strong> less appealing (and<br />
more expensive) than just hopping on a plane and flying nonstop to Cancun, Aruba, Turks &<br />
Caicos, or other fun 'n sun destination. Still, a number of resorts say their #1 U.S. state for guests
is California, which is by far the largest U.S. state, with a population larger than the entire<br />
country of Canada. Imagine if <strong>Belize</strong> had non-stop air service from LA and San Francisco!<br />
QUESTIONS THAT DRIVE ME BATTY<br />
• Whenever I travel, whether it's to <strong>Belize</strong> or Mexico or Utah or almost anywhere, the question<br />
nearly every tour guide, waiter, street vendor or other tourism contact person asks is: "Where are<br />
you from?" The next most-asked question is "Is this your first time here?" And the third mostasked<br />
question is "How long have you been here?" If you tend to travel around a lot as I do,<br />
staying in many different hotels in many different areas, you hear these questions a LOT. Often<br />
scores of times each trip. After a while it starts to drive me crazy. In most cases, I don't think the<br />
contact person really cares where you're from. Sometimes I made up a name of a place I'm from -<br />
- Wackamolie City or whatever. Personally I think staff training should include a session on how<br />
to have a friendly, interactive conversation with tourists without asking the same old hackneyed<br />
questions.<br />
Mural at Candelie’s Cabañas in Sarteneja<br />
WHAT TOURISTS WANT<br />
• One day I’m going to do an accurate count, but over the years I imagine I’ve stayed in at least<br />
150 different hotels in <strong>Belize</strong>, and probably closer to 200. That may not make me an expert, but I<br />
do think it gives me a little insight into what travelers want in the hotels where they spend money.<br />
Here’s my take:<br />
-- Value for the money. Whether you’re paying BZ$50 or US$500 for a room, you expect value<br />
for the money. Obviously, one’s expectations differ depending on what kind of hotel it is, budget
or super deluxe, but across the board you want the same basic qualities: cleanliness, friendliness,<br />
safety, convenience and comfort. Many of your guests just don’t care how much it costs for you<br />
to operate. They aren’t judging <strong>Belize</strong> by <strong>Belize</strong> standards. They are judging by their own<br />
standards of value and comparing it to what they paid in Costa Rica or Mexico or the U.S. or<br />
wherever, and if you are charging twice as much as what your guests usually pay for the same<br />
quality of accommodations, they are probably not going to be very happy. At the very least, you<br />
need to be able to offer them something unique and special that makes up for the higher cost.<br />
-- Hospitality. I keep running into hotel owners in <strong>Belize</strong> who have no business being in the<br />
hotel business. This is a hospitality business. You have to like people. You have to enjoy<br />
meeting and talking with people. You have to maintain a cheerful public face, even if you’re not<br />
happy. No matter how nice your hotel, if you don’t make guests feel truly welcome, it’s not<br />
going to work.<br />
Grilled lobster at Mambo Restaurant at Mata Chica on<br />
North Ambergris<br />
-- Conviviality. Okay, sometimes after a hard day on the road I just want to check in, have a bite<br />
to eat and a drink, and hit the sack. I don’t want to talk to anybody. Others may feel the same<br />
way occasionally. But most of the time I think visitors to <strong>Belize</strong> enjoy the opportunity to mingle<br />
with other hotel guests. You don’t have to force gregariousness on them, require that everyone<br />
eat family-style or play games after dinner, but if you can provide a setting where guests can, if<br />
they wish, get to know each other in a casual setting, say in the bar before dinner, it will add<br />
something valuable to the guest experience.<br />
-- Comfort. <strong>Belize</strong> has really improved in this regard. When I first started coming to <strong>Belize</strong><br />
more than 20 years ago, you barely could hope for more than a room with thin walls, linoleum on<br />
the floor, a thin mattress on the bed, and a fan that worked, sort of. Now, more and more hotels<br />
have air conditioning, a swimming pool, cable or satellite TV, free internet and comfortable beds<br />
with cotton linens. Yet, so often I stay at hotels where the internet works only intermittently or<br />
only in certain locations, where the air conditioning doesn’t really cool the room or the TV<br />
picture is fuzzy. Guests expect that the hotel will at least provide the comforts of home, and<br />
probably they’re looking for something a little better than they have back home.
-- Neutrality. Many people relocate to <strong>Belize</strong>, including some who start hotels, because they<br />
have a vision of what they want their life to be. Maybe you want to be closer to nature, live off<br />
the grid and eat natural foods. That’s great. But. Don’t force your life choices on your guests.<br />
They may be spending thousands of dollars to vacation in <strong>Belize</strong> and just want a relaxing<br />
experience; they may not want to save the world. Don’t lecture your guests, whether in your<br />
informational materials or in person. Don’t try to impose your views – environmental, political<br />
or otherwise – on guests. Or if you must do so, make damn sure they know what you stand for<br />
and what they are getting into, before they arrive.<br />
REAL ESTATE REALITY<br />
Bottom line, the real estate market in <strong>Belize</strong> has been in a slump, just like the market in the U.S.<br />
Real estate agents and developers may sing a different tune, but with few exceptions the fact is<br />
the market has been punk. Condos are still a drug on the market, and real estate developments are<br />
selling lots mainly if they offer financing. There are signs the market may be beginning to perk<br />
up just a bit, however.<br />
CAR RENTAL<br />
• On arrival in <strong>Belize</strong> I picked up a rental car from my favorite car renter in <strong>Belize</strong> – a Suzuki<br />
Grand Vitara from Budget <strong>Belize</strong>. Excellent vehicle, almost new (just a few thousand<br />
kilometers), in tip-top condition. I put close to 2,000 kilometers on the car with nary a problem<br />
(these Japanese cars have everything in kilometers, not miles). Of course, it was painful to pull<br />
up to gas stations. Rarely did I fill up without forking out more than BZ$100. I did see that<br />
<strong>Belize</strong> Diesel, the Toyota dealer, has taken over management of JMA Motors, parent of JMA<br />
Rentals that operates Budget, along with Royal Motors. Hope this doesn’t affect the Budget<br />
operation. In general, I’d say that the high cost of car rentals in <strong>Belize</strong>, combined with the use of<br />
older, high-mileage vehicles, is one of the things that gives <strong>Belize</strong> the reputation for being<br />
overpriced. Compare the quality, condition and cost of vehicles you get when you rent in<br />
neighboring Guatemala and Mexico, where road conditions are not necessarily any better than in<br />
<strong>Belize</strong>, and it gives you pause.<br />
Crossing at the Mexico border
NORTHERN BELIZE AND MEXICO<br />
• Had a pleasant short stay at Almond Tree Resort in Corozal Town, which has an attractive<br />
pool and a nice setting on the bay. Not much has changed in the hotel scene in Corozal. Corozal<br />
Bay Resort, Tony’s, Las Palmas, Serenity Sands B&B, Casablanca, Coca Banana,<br />
SeaBreeze and the others are still around. There’s still far more space available than demand, so<br />
occupancy rates remain low. If it weren’t for people looking for a place to retire or for real estate,<br />
most of the hotels would be empty. A few spots, like Tony’s, do get medical mission groups.<br />
We had a delicious and inexpensive dinner of conch soup, conch ceviche and fajitas at the new<br />
location of Patti's Bistro, which remains my favorite place to eat in town. The conch fritters at<br />
Tony’s Ynot Grill (Tony’s spelled backwards, get it?) were as good as I remember them, and the<br />
other old standbys like Venky’s (mainly takeout) and Cactus Plaza (weekends only) are still<br />
good and inexpensive.<br />
Corozal Town remains the sleepy spot it always has been. There are a few new shops and stores.<br />
Looks like the new Corozal Art Gallery is going to be an asset to the town.<br />
• Spent a pleasant two days in Chetumal. Stayed at Los Cocos for its location. The city is really<br />
growing. Generally clean, safe and lots of shopping at the mall, the new Walmart, Sam's Club<br />
and so on, plus the hundreds of local shops. Walked around the bayfront near the municipal pier<br />
where the boats leave for San Pedro (US$30 to $35, but if you bargain with the agents you can<br />
probably get the rate down to US$20 or so) -- people out cleaning, sweeping and picking up trash,<br />
nobody hitting on you for money or selling drugs. What a contrast with <strong>Belize</strong> City or Corozal<br />
Town for that matter. <strong>By</strong> the way, if you can't take your car into Mexico I highly recommend<br />
Henry and Joan Menzies at <strong>Belize</strong> VIP Transfers (www.belizetransfers.com) for a no-hassle<br />
transfer between Corozal and Chetumal -- US$30 for up to four people. Takes about an hour<br />
depending on how busy the border is. Saves worrying with buses and/or taxis, smoothes things<br />
through customs and immigration. Well worth it. You can park your car at Menzies’ place – he<br />
is also starting to rent cars (but they can’t be taken into Mexico.)<br />
• It was also great being back in Sarteneja. It's one of the truly unspoiled places in <strong>Belize</strong>.<br />
Sarteneja is the largest fishing village in <strong>Belize</strong>. The lobster boats were tied up off the bayfront,<br />
and I’m told that local shipbuilders do about five or six boats a year. We had whole fresh snapper<br />
for dinner (BZ$15) at Richie's and breakfast of chicken tacos, salbutes, garnaches and panades<br />
from Liz Fast Food -- BZ$5 total for three people. Chez DiDi, the French restaurant (French<br />
restaurant??!!) was closed when I was there. I know it’s for sale, so I don’t know what the future<br />
may hold for it. Candelie's Seaside Cabanas are just as good as ever -- right on the water, ice<br />
cold A/C, sat TV, US$60 double. The Verdes (Jorge, Elvi, Carolie, Cande and the others) are<br />
fine people.<br />
PLACENCIA AND HOPKINS<br />
• Quite a few changes in Placencia since my last visit: some new McMansions at The Placencia<br />
(or as Barnacle Bill Taylor, the wit of Maya Beach, says, “modest single-family residences” …<br />
several new restaurants and shops in Placencia village … lots of small real estate developments<br />
(though not always a lot of sales) … Bella Maya still closed and a real mess in more ways than<br />
one. Very slow here at the hotels right now. Hopefully this will pick up soon. Boy, the new road<br />
is terrific!
On the beach at Maya Beach<br />
• Update on some of the changes in Placencia:<br />
-- Not much change yet at Robert’s Grove under the new management. Thatch on pier replaced,<br />
and pier repainted, some new lighting and some changes to the original pool next to the office,<br />
but otherwise any changes will come later. Many of the old staff are gone. The hotel was very<br />
quiet when I was there, but then so were nearly all the hotels on the peninsula. Don’t know about<br />
you, but I miss Bob and Risa.<br />
-- Most people that I talked with at hotels and restaurants say they had an excellent season, but<br />
that it really slowed down starting in May.<br />
-- Placencia did very well in the BTB/BTIA awards just held at the Biltmore Plaza in <strong>Belize</strong> City<br />
(where I understand several hundred very well dressed tourism stakeholders were in attendance.)<br />
Maya Beach Hotel Bistro won Best Restaurant, Avedon Divers won Best Tour Operator, and<br />
Althea at Chabil Mar won Best Hotel Front Line Person.<br />
-- Among restaurants, Maya Beach Hotel Bistro is still as good as ever – they richly deserved<br />
the BTB award for Best Restaurant. Had a great dinner there: shrimp-stuffed squid, coconut<br />
shrimp, potato-encrusted snapper, rum & tonic. Frank Da Silva is doing a nice job at Mango’s,<br />
and his conch fritters are just as good as they were at Robert’s Grove. Rumfish y Vino, Danube<br />
and Dolce Vita are worth trying. French Connection is closed, and the owners back in Europe.<br />
There is a new casual restaurant/bar on the beach, Deviners, where La Trattoria used to be, run<br />
by Brits. At the cheaper end (though Placencia is pretty expensive even at the low end) The<br />
Shak, Yoli’s and Omar’s aren’t bad. Tutti Fruiti gelato is still fantastico!<br />
-- There's not much going on at the new "international airport." A security guard is about all you<br />
see. The terminal buildings are about half complete, and there are huge piles of dirt. I guess<br />
there's some question about paving the runoff. Hard to say, but apparently this will be a "private"<br />
airport for The Placencia development, not a true public airport, though who knows? Likewise,<br />
some construction at the Copal Beach project, but nothing is anywhere near completion after<br />
over three years. The Placencia Residences continue to go up, though, and I understand all are<br />
sold. Reportedly The Placencia folks face an investigation in Canada regarding investment<br />
practices.
Sign at Chef Rob’s in Hopkins<br />
• Hopkins is tooling right along. Quite a few new houses and other buildings going up in the<br />
village. Iris’ restaurant has been leased to I believe a South African couple – unclear yet what<br />
changes will be made. Taste of India has a sign up “Closed for two months” and no sign of life.<br />
Chef Rob’s, Innie’s and of course Barracuda Bar & Grill still among the top places to eat.<br />
However, Barracuda is closed in June (at least) for a major rebuild, and several other restaurants<br />
were closed temporarily due to the water being out in the village. Thongs is open but on a<br />
limited schedule. Among resorts Hamanasi is still doing its superb job, and at the mid-range you<br />
have the delightful All Seasons, Hopkins Inn and Jungle Jeanie’s.<br />
Saturday market in PG<br />
PUNTA GORDA AND TOLEDO<br />
• It was a delight to be back at Hickatee Cottages. Hickatee is such a wonderful small hotel or<br />
lodge. I can’t believe they have never won Small Hotel of the Year from the BTB. Sitting on the<br />
veranda listening to the howler monkeys and sipping a rum and tonic – ah, heaven!
• The rainy season is a bit tardy this year. Toledo had one 6” rain and a bit more, but not the<br />
heavy rains you normally see at the start of the seasonal rains. Hopkins and Placencia also have<br />
had a little wet but not much. The Kendal bridge is still open. Some work has been done on the<br />
access points to the new bridge but not to the bridge itself.<br />
• It has been hot, hot, hot. In Corozal, Chetumal, Sarteneja, Hopkins, Placencia and elsewhere on<br />
the coast, the water has been calm with little or no breeze at times. PG has been stifling, though it<br />
does cool down a little at night and in the early morning, especially with rain. One day in June the<br />
temp in San Pedro hit 104.<br />
• The seasonal rains have started in earnest in Toledo. One Saturday night it must have rained 5<br />
or 6 inches in PG, with 3 ½ inches in the first hour alone. I woke up to the heaviest rain I’ve<br />
heard in a long time, along with thunder and lightning. But the rain was lovely, cooling things<br />
down and promising that everything would soon be green. The rains have now moved north, to<br />
Stann Creek and Cayo and even the northern cayes. Watch out for the flood flies!<br />
• The Southern Highway is now completely paved, and prep work has started on the San Antonio<br />
Road to Guatemala. There is quite a bit of local controversy about the new road from the Dump<br />
to the Guatemala border. Preparation of the roadway has begun, and a huge quarry is operating<br />
near the junction with the road to San Pedro Columbia. Some local people are glad to see the<br />
new infrastructure, which will open up southern <strong>Belize</strong> to tourists and entrepreneurs from<br />
Guatemala. Others worry about “bad elements” from Guatemala coming in (as if they didn’t<br />
already). A few budget hotel owners and the water taxi owners fear that the backpacker traffic<br />
from <strong>Belize</strong> to Guatemala via the water taxis will stop, and it probably will. But overall I think<br />
tourism in Toledo, and also general commerce, will benefit greatly from a legal southern border<br />
crossing between Guatemala and <strong>Belize</strong>.<br />
• The restaurant situation in PG is about the same as usual – not a lot of choices and several of the<br />
restaurants tend to have limited hours, especially in the summer. Mangrove Inn (most dishes<br />
around BZ$15-18, and it’s BYOB now) is probably the best all-around choice, along with<br />
Marian’s Bayside. Earth Runnin’s has pretty good food, though service can be slow and<br />
“quirky.” Gomier’s is often not open. Emery’s of course has been closed for a while. Grace’s<br />
and El Café are still options for breakfast. Olympic Grill has spruced up a bit. The Bamboo<br />
Chicken is a new and very popular bar on the bayfront on Front Street – nice sea breeze, cold<br />
beer and light bar snacks.<br />
Oscar and Pinto at Hickatee Cottages
Colonial-era home near PG is now a B&B<br />
• Hotels Smotels in PG! Same old same old, except for one interesting new choice – Sirmoor<br />
Hill Farm Bed and Breakfast, off New Road. It’s a 100+ year-old colonial house, beautifully<br />
restored, with a guest suite of two bedrooms and a bath. The owners have a large farm (Brahman<br />
cattle, teak and more), and the setting of the home, on a knoll that catches the breezes, is<br />
absolutely stunning. More later on this new jewel. Machacha Hill has another new manager,<br />
and another new plan to make this project work. Thank goodness the absentee owner has lots of<br />
money. The rooms have been upgraded, but the old blue zinc roofs and cabin exteriors are the<br />
same as when the hotel was built as a fishing lodge for rich old white guys. You’re paying many<br />
hundreds of dollars a night, and the first thing you see is the beat-up old cabins. You wonder<br />
what these people are thinking! Hickatee Cottages and Coral House Inn are as good as ever.<br />
Hickatee now has six cabins (or soon will), and Coral House is looking fantastic. In the budget<br />
end, Tate’s is the way to go.<br />
• Driving up from PG to San Ignacio on a Sunday, I stopped at Sanctuary <strong>Belize</strong> (formerly<br />
Sanctuary Bay). The entrance road had been scraped though it was muddy and sloppy in places<br />
after rain overnight. Got to the office, and it was locked tight. There were six or eight pickups<br />
parked at the office, and a new entrance bridge and guard box are being built at the entrance to<br />
the marina road. I didn’t drive down the marina road, because it appeared to be barricaded, but I<br />
understand there are several homes under construction and work is going on at the marina.
Near San Antonio village in Cayo<br />
CAYO<br />
• Stopped at the new Corker’s restaurant in Belmopan and had an excellent cheeseburger – along<br />
with Riverside Tavern in <strong>Belize</strong> City and Legends in San Pedro, this is one of <strong>Belize</strong>’s best<br />
burgers. I was also happy to see drink prices were reasonable – a Jack Daniels, for example, is<br />
BZ$6 and it’s two-for-one at happy hour 3 to 8 p.m. Thursday to Saturday. Two Jack Blacks for<br />
US$3 is an unbeatable deal.<br />
• Interesting to see that fruit and vegetable prices at the Belmopan market are mostly higher than<br />
those at the market in Corozal Town. Banana prices are the same, but prices for mango, papaya<br />
and quite a few other items seem to be higher than in Corozal. Would have though prices would<br />
be lower in Belmopan, except maybe for papaya, since a lot of them are grown in Corozal<br />
District.<br />
• I didn’t have reservations for my first night in San Ignacio, so I figured I would get a room at<br />
Cahal Pech Village. I was shocked to be told that there was only one room available (and that<br />
one didn’t fit our needs) and that for the next several days all 30 rooms at the hotel were sold out.<br />
Nothing special going on, I was told, just having a good month. At least some hotels in <strong>Belize</strong><br />
get it that moderate rates and attractive accommodations bring in guests. I did get a room at San<br />
Ignacio Resort Hotel, at twice the Cahal Pech rate. Other hotels also had availabilities, but my<br />
daughter wasn’t feeling up to par, so I grabbed one of the upgraded rooms at the San Ignacio<br />
Resort Hotel, which are very pleasant but not a bargain, even with a little off-season discount.<br />
• We had a lovely overnight stay at one of the two new cabañas at Table Rock Lodge, capped by<br />
one of my best meals in <strong>Belize</strong>. Chef Chris prepared roasted lamb flank with a hash of ground<br />
lamb and cho-cho. Delicious! Table Rock Lodge won Best Small Hotel honors in the BTB<br />
competition. Neighbors Mystic River looks good, and Mariposa Lodge has added a swimming<br />
pool. I met with Mick and Lucy Fleming at The Lodge at Chaa Creek. Mick (who looks trim,<br />
fit and young after losing 20 pounds and doing a grueling bike race) is spending a lot of time on<br />
his organic farm and gardens. Chaa Creek looks as wonderful as ever.
• The situation regarding Tikal is still up in the air. Following the massacre of 27 farm workers<br />
southwest of Flores, allegedly by Los Zetas, the U.S. Embassy in <strong>Belize</strong> issued a warning<br />
“strongly recommending against” travel to Tikal and Flores. Some of the lodges and hotels<br />
around San Ignacio and in the Pine Ridge have temporarily stopped doing tours to Tikal, on the<br />
theory of better safe than sorry, but others continue to offer them if the guests want to go.<br />
Sailwinds Beach Suites and Rose’s Restaurant on Caye Caulker<br />
CAYE CAULKER<br />
• Had a short but sweet visit to Caye Caulker. The transformation from fishing village to 100%<br />
tourismo sure didn’t take long, did it? Remember when there were actually businesses and<br />
people on the island who don’t cater to visitors? Be that as it may, the island wasn’t very busy,<br />
and several restaurants were closed or had reduced hours. Rose’s was humming, though, and I<br />
had a good dinner from the grill. Don Corleone’s was doing a good business, too. The popular<br />
Sandro’s is still not serving anything but breakfast, as the co-owner hasn’t yet returned from<br />
Italy. Amor y Café has a nice breakfast vibe. Plenty of hotel space available, but Caye Reef<br />
Condos was full – excellent value starting at US$105 for a two-bedroom, two-bath condo with<br />
full kitchen, A/C and cable. One thing that is increasingly irritating about Caulker is the hustlers<br />
on Front Street and elsewhere who constantly harass visitors trying to get them to buy some<br />
jewelry or art or to eat at a particular restaurant. Do these jokers really think that hassling tourists<br />
is the way to get them to buy anything?<br />
AMBERGRIS CAYE<br />
• It’s kind of hard to figure out what’s happening on Ambergris Caye. On the one hand, there is<br />
new construction going on, lots of new businesses (especially small ones like neighborhood<br />
restaurants) opening, and some of the hotels are doing well but then there are a lot of For Sale and<br />
For Rent signs. Just <strong>Belize</strong>, I guess.
On a golf cart heading north on Ambergris Caye<br />
-- The golf cart path north is in the best shape I’ve ever seen it, though that may change when the<br />
seasonal rains come in earnest. I drove as far north as Costa Maya and could have gone farther.<br />
Vehicle taxis (not just golf cart taxis) now go as far north as Las Terrazas (it’s BZ$50 one-way<br />
including the BZ$12 vehicle bridge toll all the way to Las Terrazas).<br />
-- Had two delicious servings of lobster on June 15, the first day of the season – including<br />
fabulous, fabulous, fabulous lobster at Rojo Lounge, where Chef Jeff Spiegel runs one of the<br />
best kitchens in Central America.<br />
The infinity pool at Victoria House<br />
-- Among the hotels on the island that are doing strong business are Victoria House and Mata<br />
Chica. Had a lovely overnight at Mata Chica, where the occupancy rate is high, and the new<br />
beachfront cabañas and infinity pool are terrific. Victoria House was virtually full, not bad for<br />
mid-June. <strong>By</strong> the way, the villa suites at VH are incredible, with two delicious bedrooms that
ookend a living and dining area of high design with soaring thatch roof and acid-etched concrete<br />
floors. Spent my last night on Ambergris at Tim Jeffers’ beautiful Grand Caribe.<br />
-- Haven’t had the chance to visit them all again this trip, but the old fave restaurants on<br />
Ambergris appear to be as good as ever – Rojo Lounge at Azul Resort, Wild Mango’s, Red<br />
Ginger at The Phoenix, Aji, Lazy Croc, Capricorn, Elvi’s, Mambo at Mata Chica, Hidden<br />
Treasure and Palmilla at Victoria House, among others. Service at Crave at lunch was<br />
painfully slow, even with only two tables occupied. The Wyatt Earp double patty burger (BZ$19<br />
with fries) at Legends was a mouthful, though a bit dry. Food was so-so at the Palapa Bar, but<br />
the bar scene and setting were fun. You can still get a cheap and cheerful local meal at places like<br />
Antojitos San Telmo.<br />
-- In the rumours department, we understand that Canary Cove on North Ambergris will soon<br />
debut as a US$70,000 a week vacation rental, managed by a leading resort. Yes, I said US$70K a<br />
week. That’s St. Bart’s territory for the ultra-ultra-rich and could be a game changer for <strong>Belize</strong>.<br />
Another rumour is that a certain resort company on North Ambergris will build a big new project<br />
with all units set in a lake-size swimming pool.<br />
Is it Lan Sluder or the ghost of Hunter S. Thompson?<br />
ABOUT <strong>LAN</strong> <strong>SLUDER</strong><br />
Lan Sluder has been banging around <strong>Belize</strong> for more than 20 years. He is the author of 10 books<br />
and eBooks on <strong>Belize</strong>, including Fodor’s <strong>Belize</strong>, Easy <strong>Belize</strong>, Living Abroad in <strong>Belize</strong> and <strong>Belize</strong><br />
Islands Guide.