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PRISM<br />

SPRING 2011<br />

AGTA<br />

RED ED CARPET ARPET<br />

COLOR ME<br />

BRIDAL<br />

MEMBER EMBER PPROFILE<br />

ROFILE:<br />

BARBARA<br />

LAWRENCE<br />

TORRES DE<br />

PAIN RING<br />

ELEARNING<br />

PLATFORM


1 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011


AGTA<br />

BOARD OF<br />

DIRECTORS<br />

P RESIDENT<br />

Benjamin Hackman<br />

Intercolor, Inc.<br />

V ICE PRESIDENTS<br />

Robert Bentley<br />

Robert Bentley Company, Inc.<br />

Kambiz Sabouri<br />

<strong>Gem</strong> 2000, Inc.<br />

S ECRETARY<br />

John Bachman<br />

John M. Bachman, Inc.<br />

TREASURER<br />

Sampat Poddar<br />

Byrex <strong>Gem</strong>s, Inc.<br />

D IRECTORS<br />

Peter Bazar<br />

Imperial-Deltah, Inc.<br />

Ruben Bindra<br />

B & B Fine <strong>Gem</strong>s<br />

Sushil Goyal<br />

Liberty <strong>Gem</strong>s, Inc.<br />

Betty Sue King<br />

King’s Ransom<br />

Bill Larson<br />

Pala International, Inc.<br />

Glenn Lehrer<br />

Lehrer Designs, Inc.<br />

Gerry Manning<br />

Manning International, Inc.<br />

Niveet Nagpal<br />

Omi <strong>Gem</strong>s, Inc.<br />

Joe Orlando<br />

Stuller, Inc.<br />

Ambrish Sethi<br />

Manak Jewels<br />

Lois Wacholtz<br />

Christoper’s Fine Jewelry<br />

John “Bear” Williams<br />

Bear Essentials<br />

Cynthia Zava<br />

Cynthia Rénee Company<br />

PAST P RESIDENT<br />

Barbara Lawrence<br />

Boston <strong>Gem</strong>s & Findings, Inc.<br />

C HIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER<br />

Douglas K. Hucker<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong><br />

M E M B E R S H I P B E N E F I T S<br />

The <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong> is a not-for-profit <strong>Association</strong> of United<br />

States and Canadian gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and<br />

appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls.<br />

Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,100 Members representing leading colored<br />

gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, designers,<br />

colored diamond dealers, estate dealers and industry professionals.<br />

AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing to the<br />

<strong>Association</strong>’s strict Code of Ethics & full disclosure of gemstone enhancements.<br />

Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services:<br />

Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important annual events in<br />

the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson, AGTA<br />

<strong>Gem</strong>Fair at the JCK Las Vegas Show, JA New York Show & The Smart Jewelry<br />

Show in Chicago.<br />

Members are featured in the printed AGTA Source Directory and online version.<br />

This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network of fellow gemstone<br />

professionals. Over 20,000 copies are distributed!<br />

Members stay informed about the AGTA, hot topics surrounding our industry,<br />

gemstone & jewelry fashion with the quarterly Prism & weekly ePrism.<br />

Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include<br />

Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express® Shipping, FedEx Declared<br />

Value, FedEx Kinkos, GE Money Luxury Program, insurance programs through<br />

<strong>Association</strong> Health Programs, the Office Depot: Taking Care of Business program<br />

and car rental services through Avis and Budget.<br />

Members can also access our Members Only Forum and gain valuable knowledge<br />

from our <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson Seminar DVD and eLearning Platform.<br />

The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from<br />

the competition.<br />

PRISM<br />

is distributed quarterly for <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong> Members.<br />

For further information or to advertise, please contact:<br />

Joshua Garcia<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong><br />

3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234<br />

800-972-1162 214-742-7334 FAX<br />

www.agta.org www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com<br />

ON THE COVER:<br />

2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards winning chrysoprase earringe by Gregore Joailliers,<br />

green tourmaline ring by evelynH Jewelry, Inc., and pyrite bracelet by louise abroms<br />

designs.<br />

Photographed by Jack Deutsch.<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 2


L E T T E R F R O M T H E CEO<br />

AGTA Introduces on-line eLearning<br />

Sales course for Colored <strong>Gem</strong>stones<br />

and Pearls<br />

The <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong><br />

(AGTA) is an association of United<br />

States and Canadian trade professionals<br />

dedicated to promoting the long term<br />

stability and integrity of the natural<br />

colored gemstone and cultured pearl<br />

industries. The <strong>Association</strong> pursues<br />

its goals through the combined use<br />

of educational programs, publicity,<br />

industry events, government and<br />

industry relations, and printed materials<br />

for both the trade and consumer. The<br />

AGTA is well-known in the gemstone<br />

and jewelry industries for maintaining<br />

the highest ethical standards.<br />

Time and again, when we survey our<br />

Members we are reminded that the most<br />

important reason that our Members site<br />

for becoming AGTA Members is our<br />

<strong>Association</strong>’s unwavering commitment<br />

to maintaining high ethical standards.<br />

In keeping with this, we have redoubled<br />

our efforts this year to conduct an<br />

ongoing review of how our Members are<br />

fulfilling their commitment they make<br />

when they annually sign their Code<br />

of Ethics document, particularly their<br />

responsibility to fully and accurately<br />

disclose any and all treatments in the<br />

gem materials they provide. This<br />

3 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011<br />

continued oversight provides all of our<br />

clients with the assurance that they are<br />

buying from the experts who share their<br />

passion for gemstones and cultured<br />

pearls and that they can buy with<br />

confidence; that they will have all of<br />

the information they need to help their<br />

clients make a fully informed purchase.<br />

Although the majority of our Members<br />

state our ethical business practices<br />

as the reason for joining the AGTA,<br />

when asked about Member benefits;<br />

they choose educational offerings as<br />

the support service that would most<br />

help them in improving their colored<br />

gemstone and cultured pearl business.<br />

In response, a great deal of our time<br />

and resources have been, for the past<br />

few years, devoted to developing<br />

quality educational offerings to help<br />

our Members improve their staffs’<br />

product knowledge.<br />

This year, we are very excited to<br />

introduce our new online eLearning<br />

platform to provide quality, affordable<br />

modules on colored gemstones and<br />

pearls. The courses are composed of<br />

ten to fifteen minutes modules that are<br />

designed to excite and enthuse your<br />

sales staff, and to help them understand<br />

what motivates a customer to make a<br />

colored gemstone purchase, and to give<br />

them a much higher comfort level in<br />

making their presentations.<br />

Each course is packed with stunning<br />

pictures of the gemstones themselves,<br />

as well as information about sources,<br />

historical significance, quality and<br />

value factors and value statements that<br />

will motivate a customer to own each<br />

particular gemstone. Both entry-level<br />

employees and seasoned veterans can<br />

benefit from these modules.<br />

As usual, we are providing this<br />

eLearning platform for our Members for<br />

free and to non-members at a modest<br />

fee. To see a sample of this course<br />

or to register, please visit our website<br />

www.agta.org and click on Education.<br />

Sincerely,<br />

Douglas K. Hucker<br />

Chief Executive Officer


AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 4


B U Y E R S F L O C K T O<br />

B<br />

uyers flocked to the annual AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson to source<br />

gemstones and pearls, learn about new trends and network at nightly<br />

events. AGTA reported an increase in buyer attendance for the six-day<br />

show despite weather issues nationwide that affected travel to the event.<br />

Buyer attendance was up 5% over 2010, building on a 7% increase from<br />

the previous year.<br />

“We are pleased to be able to share<br />

such positive results for our show,”<br />

stated Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO.<br />

“Buyers are returning to the trade<br />

shows and they know that the AGTA<br />

<strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson is the best colored<br />

gemstone and cultured pearl experience<br />

in the industry. Our Members are<br />

dedicated to maintaining the highest<br />

ethical standards and full disclosure,<br />

so buyers know they can shop with<br />

complete confidence.”<br />

“WE HAD MORE<br />

TRAFFIC AT THE<br />

AGTA SHOW THAN<br />

WE’VE EVER HAD!”<br />

PAULA CREVOSHAY<br />

<strong>Gem</strong>Fair showcased the latest in natural<br />

colored gemstones and cultured pearls,<br />

products and trends. The real success<br />

of the show was the atmosphere on<br />

the show floor, with a significant<br />

upswing in buying activity. “Colored<br />

gemstones and pearls are hot and<br />

profitable, and buyers know that the<br />

AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson is the place<br />

to find the best quality and finest<br />

dealers in these categories,” stated<br />

Hucker. Buying activity was strong for<br />

5 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011<br />

both lo loose oose and d finished finis fini finished h goods<br />

d<br />

i iin<br />

all ll<br />

price points. “We had a steady<br />

flow<br />

of enthusiastic buyers at our booth<br />

throughout the show, even with the<br />

weather issues,” said Niveet Nagpal<br />

of Omi <strong>Gem</strong>s. “Many people told us<br />

that they now realize the importance<br />

of adding color to their merchandising<br />

mix in order to grow their business and<br />

increase profitability.” Designers<br />

in the Spectrum of Design Pavilion<br />

also reported good traffic and sales.<br />

Exhibitor Paula Crevoshay exclaimed<br />

“We had more traffic at the AGTA show<br />

than we’ve ever had! The show proved<br />

to be the most successful in the last 30<br />

years.”<br />

Aside from the business of buying and<br />

selling, one of the key components of a<br />

trade show experience is the opportunity<br />

to network and socialize with peers<br />

outside of show hours.<br />

Prior to the start of <strong>Gem</strong>Fair, AGTA<br />

held its 15th Annual Coyote Classic<br />

Charity Golf Tournament at the<br />

Omni Tucson National Resort. The<br />

tournament, sponsored by FedEx, was<br />

enjoyed by over 50 golfers under sunny


AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Jammin: Gerry Manning, Jack<br />

Malinowski and Clay Zava<br />

Arizona skies, with all proceeds going<br />

to the Law Enforcement Torch Run<br />

for Special Olympics. The winning<br />

foursome included George Arias,<br />

Rick Grinnell, Eddie Leon and Fermi<br />

Samorano of Rosemont Cooper Mine.<br />

The AGTA raised over $9,000, to<br />

benefit this worthwhile cause, through<br />

AGTA exhibitor donations and golfers.<br />

Special thanks to FedEx for<br />

the sponsorship!<br />

Opening night kicked off with AGTA’s<br />

30th Anniversary party, sponsored<br />

by the City of Tucson. Attendees<br />

and exhibitors packed the new East<br />

Entrance of the Tucson Convention<br />

Center, while a mariachi band played<br />

on. Scottish <strong>Gem</strong>mologist Alan<br />

Hodgkinson was presented with the<br />

Leon Ritzler Memorial Honorary<br />

Member Award and recently-retired<br />

<strong>Gem</strong>s & <strong>Gem</strong>ology Editor-in-Chief,<br />

Alice Keller, was recognized for<br />

her outstanding contributions to the<br />

colored gemstone industry.<br />

Thursday night saw the return of<br />

AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Jammin’, a gathering<br />

of the jewelry industry’s best<br />

musicians, benefitting Jewelers For<br />

Children (JFC). Gerry Manning,<br />

Jack Malinowski and Marty Hurwitz<br />

coordinated the effort on behalf<br />

of AGTA and also contributed<br />

musically. There were many notable<br />

performances that kept the crowd<br />

at The Hut all night long. Thanks to<br />

sponsors Instore Magazine, Jewelers<br />

Mutual Insurance Company, Stuller<br />

and Swarovski, AGTA contributed over<br />

$5,000 to JFC.<br />

The AGTA Spectrum Awards Gala,<br />

sponsored by the Diamond Council<br />

of America, was held on Saturday<br />

night and celebrated the winners of<br />

the 2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards<br />

competition. The capacity crowd<br />

enjoyed a great dinner, followed up by<br />

30th Anniversary Party: Douglas Hucker, Alan Hodgkinson, Alice Keller and Bear Williams<br />

AGTA Spectrum Awards Gala<br />

Coyote Classic Charity Golf Tournament<br />

“THE EVENTS HELD<br />

IN CONJUNCTION<br />

WITH OUR GEMFAIR<br />

ARE REALLY<br />

IMPORTANT TO THE<br />

SUCCESS OF OUR<br />

SHOW.”<br />

DOUGLAS K. HUCKER<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 6


7 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011


live dance music from the Robert Street<br />

Band. This event capped off a week of<br />

successful events in style.<br />

Many other groups reported good<br />

turnouts for their events at <strong>Gem</strong>Fair,<br />

including the Cultured Pearl <strong>Association</strong><br />

of America (CPAA), International<br />

Colored <strong>Gem</strong>stone <strong>Association</strong> (ICA),<br />

Indian Diamond and Colorstone<br />

<strong>Association</strong> (IDCA) and GIA, which<br />

held its 80th Birthday Bash on<br />

Friday night.<br />

“The events held in conjunction with<br />

our <strong>Gem</strong>Fair are really important to the<br />

success of our show,” added Hucker.<br />

“They provide great opportunities for<br />

people to meet and talk in a fun, relaxed<br />

environment. It really adds to the whole<br />

Tucson experience for attendees.”<br />

“This AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson DVD-Rom contains so much great information from<br />

some of the industry’s most knowledgeable presenters,” states Douglas K. Hucker,<br />

AGTA CEO. “Pick sessions, or parts of sessions, to play in your staff meetings or during<br />

set up. It is a wonderful training tool.” The comprehensive DVD-Rom includes both<br />

audio and the PowerPoint slides from 27 individual presentations. It contains a wealth<br />

of great information for both training and reference purposes. As a Member benefit, all<br />

AGTA Members received a copy for free. Others in the industry can order the DVD-<br />

Rom for just $50 - and for a limited time will get a copy of the 2010 seminar program as<br />

supplies last. Please contact sales@agta.org or call 214-742-4367 to place your order.<br />

AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson showcased Creating Opportunities for your<br />

important educational seminars designed business.” Topics ranged from effective<br />

to help industry professionals looking sales and marketing strategies, financial<br />

for new and innovative strategies to management in today’s economy and<br />

create opportunities for profit and<br />

growth in their businesses. The exciting<br />

industry trends.<br />

line-up of FREE seminars offered Exhibitor opportunities for <strong>Gem</strong>Fair<br />

education at every level—from basic Tucson 2012 are available! For further<br />

to advanced. The program proved very information, please contact:<br />

popular with participants, with packed Mary Lou Keen<br />

rooms and Q & A sessions. Attendees <strong>Trade</strong> Show Manager<br />

had the opportunity to learn from, and Tel: 800-972-1162 Fax: 214-742-7334<br />

network with, peers and colleagues, E-mail: info@agta.org<br />

ask questions and take home useful and Website: www.agta.org<br />

practical information they can put to<br />

use immediately.<br />

Join us next year<br />

January 31 - February 5, for<br />

27 of the seminars were recorded (see AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson.<br />

details below) including “Smart Buying- Information about the show is<br />

What’s Hot! Whats’s Not!” “Inside available on www.agta.org or by<br />

Knowledge” and “Public Relations- calling 800-972-1162.<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 8


C O L O R R U L E S T H E R E D C A R P E T<br />

By Deborah Yonick<br />

L<br />

eading ladies graced the red carpet at the<br />

83rd Annual Academy Awards® Feb. 27<br />

at the Kodak Theater in Hollywood with vivid<br />

gem-set jewels. Many of the stars wore jewelry<br />

designed by Members of the <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong><br />

<strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong>.<br />

Reese Witherspoon, Oscar presenter, with Neil Lane<br />

emerald earrings totaling 35 carats with diamonds in<br />

platinum and a 10 carat emerald ring ($60,000)—a part<br />

of her million dollar look.<br />

Sapphires and mixed gemstone designs popped on<br />

celebrities like Penelope Cruz in a 10 carat pink sapphire<br />

and diamond platinum ring by Chopard; Gwyneth<br />

Paltrow in Louis Vuitton 18K gold multi-stone earrings<br />

and brooch from its L’Ame du Voyage collection; and<br />

Celine Dion with green spinel and diamond pendant<br />

necklace in 18K gold from the historical archives of<br />

AGTA Member Bulgari. Another great example was<br />

worn by Laura Unkrich, wife of Lee Unkrich, who<br />

won for Best Animated Feature for “Toy Story 3”—a<br />

blue sapphire necklace and earrings by Omi <strong>Gem</strong>s<br />

and blue sapphire ring by Shaftel & Co. for the AGTA<br />

Collection.<br />

Another red carpet WOW was Natalie Portman in<br />

rich rubellite tourmaline bead tassel earrings by AGTA<br />

Member Tiffany & Co. atop her deep violet-hued<br />

Rodarte gown. In fact, shades of purple and lilac were<br />

popular color choices, next to tomato and chili reds at<br />

the Oscars, although neutrals like blush and champagne<br />

remain favorites. Worth a mention: Best Costume<br />

nominee Mary Zophres wearing orange sapphire<br />

mosaic filigree earrings by Dallas Prince for the AGTA<br />

Collection and Film Editing nominee Pamela Martin in<br />

yellow sapphire and diamond earrings by Shaftel & Co.<br />

for the AGTA Collection.<br />

Pearls cultivated a few good fans on the red carpet<br />

as well as adorning such stars as “X-Men Origins:<br />

Wolverine” Lynn Collins with South Sea pearl and<br />

tanzanite earrings and bracelet by Paspaley for the<br />

AGTA Collection; and Jacki Weaver, nominee for<br />

Best Supporting Actress for “Animal Kingdom” in<br />

South Sea pearl and diamond earrings, also Paspaley.<br />

Brazilian model and arm candy for actor Matthew<br />

McConaughey, Camilla Alves, also was spotted in a<br />

pearl and diamond platinum ring and earrings designed<br />

by Lorraine Schwartz. Actress Deborra-Lee Furness<br />

wore a conch and natural pearl necklace, another LS<br />

design, worth over $1 million, and pearl and diamond<br />

platinum ring.<br />

9 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011<br />

<br />

Reese Witherspoon in emerald earring by Neil Lane.<br />

<br />

Laura Unkrich, wife of Lee Unkrich,<br />

who won for Best Animated Feature<br />

for “Toy Story 3”—a blue sapphire<br />

necklace and earrings by Omi <strong>Gem</strong>s<br />

and blue sapphire ring by Shaftel &<br />

Co. for the AGTA Collection.<br />

<br />

“X-Men Origins: Wolverine” Lynn<br />

Collins with South Sea pearl and<br />

tanzanite earrings and bracelet by<br />

Paspaley for the AGTA Collection.


New Hollywood<br />

While white diamond jewels recall the glamour of Old Hollywood,<br />

colored diamonds are becoming the benchmark for the allure of<br />

New Hollywood. Typically, yellow diamonds are choice, as worn<br />

at the Oscars by Cate Blanchett in vintage Van Cleef & Arpel fancy<br />

vivid yellow diamond earrings (totaling 6 carats); Penelope Cruz<br />

in fancy yellow diamond chandelier earrings (totaling 27 carats);<br />

Florence Welch in yellow and white diamond flower gold ring and<br />

earrings by Lorraine Schwartz; and Aishwarya Rai in Lorraine<br />

Schwartz brown diamond platinum brooch and canary yellow and<br />

brown diamond bracelet.<br />

Covering all of the red carpet glamour, E! Entertainment host<br />

Giuliana Rancic sparkled herself in a Chopard “Turtle” ring with a<br />

10 carat fancy deep brown yellow diamond accented by 4 carats of<br />

brown and 2 carats of white diamonds set in rose gold, and “Tiger”<br />

earrings featuring grey moonstones (totaling 77 carats) with orange,<br />

yellow, and black diamonds set in yellow and white gold, both<br />

designs from the jeweler’s “Animal World Collection”.<br />

Also notable: Jennifer Lawrence, Best Actress nominee for<br />

her leading role in “Winter’s Bone,” shined in Chopard’s fancy<br />

yellow, radiant-cut diamond platinum stiletto earrings (totaling 16<br />

carats); and Mira Jacob, wife of Jed Rothstein, nominated for Best<br />

Documentary Short Subject “Killing in the Name,” radiated in a 42<br />

carat yellow diamond and gold bracelet and a 10 carat fancy yellow<br />

diamond ring by Shaftel & Co. for the AGTA Collection.<br />

<br />

Governor’s Ball Producer Cheryl<br />

Ceccheto in a green tourmaline<br />

necklace by Cynthia Rénee and<br />

green tourmaline earrings by Jeffrey<br />

Bilgore from the AGTA Collection.<br />

<br />

Natalie Portman in rubellite<br />

tourmaline bead tassel earrings by<br />

AGTA Member Tiffany & Co.<br />

Next to colored diamonds, rough diamonds are also intriguing<br />

Hollywood’s elite, like Entertainment Tonight correspondent Maria<br />

Menounos wore on the red carpet—rough diamond sliced earrings<br />

by Sutra.<br />

Party Like<br />

Oscar style coverage extends beyond the illustrious red carpet at<br />

the Kodak, to include photo opps around town from viewing to post<br />

parties with Hollywood’s elite on parade in their paparazzi best.<br />

Perhaps the top after-party, The Governor’s Ball, saw its producer<br />

Cheryl Ceccheto setting the stage in a green tourmaline suite, with<br />

the necklace, a 2011 AGTA Spectrum Award winner, by Cynthia<br />

Rénee and the earrings by fellow AGTA Spectrum Award-winning<br />

designer Jeffrey Bilgore, both for the AGTA Collection.<br />

Vanity Fair’s shindig was awash in color, including actresses<br />

Juliette Lewis in a lapis and diamond platinum cocktail ring and<br />

sapphire and diamond platinum wide cuff, and Jennifer Westfeldt in<br />

aquamarine and diamond platinum drop earrings and large<br />

aquamarine and diamond platinum cocktail ring; entertainment<br />

reporter Lauren Sanchez in big kunzite and diamond chandelier<br />

earrings and a moonstone and diamond platinum wide cuff.<br />

Moreover, viral video sensation Shira Lazar reported on the red<br />

carpet in jewelry from AGTA Member Erica Courtney’s Zultantite<br />

Collection, including the Turkish color-change gemstone set in an<br />

18K gold lotus cuff bracelet with pink sapphires and ring and flower<br />

burst earrings with diamond accents.<br />

Oscar’s Jewelry Pointers<br />

• Color is transforming, whether<br />

you’re adding a hue pop,<br />

complementing a shade, or keeping<br />

it simple in monotones.<br />

• Earrings continue to be a favorite<br />

accessory, especially in gemmy<br />

drop, pendant and chandelier styles.<br />

• Emerald is a style diva’s top gem<br />

choice.<br />

• New Hollywood embraces color in<br />

diamonds.<br />

• Multi-gemstone designs are back in<br />

style.<br />

• Statement gemstone rings and<br />

stacked gem-encrusted bangles and<br />

cuffs are hot.<br />

• Selective jewelry placement makes<br />

just the right statement.<br />

• Sometimes, less is more!<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 10


11 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011<br />

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to increase product knowledge, but to increase<br />

sales! That is the difference with DCA’s<br />

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– Terry W. Chandler, President/CEO, Diamond Council of America<br />

Praise for Advanced Jewelry Sales<br />

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June 3-6<br />

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AGTA E L EARNING P LATFORM<br />

O<br />

ne of the primary missions of the <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong> is to provide information and<br />

education to help sell more colored gemstones and cultured pearls. AGTA also believes that the greatest<br />

need for this education exists on the front lines with the sales associates who work directly with the consumer.<br />

With this in mind, AGTA has created an online eLearning platform to provide quality, affordable educational<br />

modules on colored gemstones and pearls.<br />

Current modules available on the AGTA eLearning<br />

Platform:<br />

Introduction to Color<br />

• AGTA: The Authority in Color<br />

• Color, Life, <strong>Gem</strong>s and You<br />

• A <strong>Gem</strong>stone’s Value<br />

• A <strong>Gem</strong>stone’s Appeal<br />

The Classic <strong>Gem</strong>stones<br />

• Blue Sapphire<br />

• Ruby<br />

• Emerald<br />

AGTA Cultured Pearls<br />

• Pearl Basics - Exotic<br />

• Pearl Basics - Organic<br />

• Pearl Basics – Rare<br />

AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson Seminar Program<br />

• 27 Sessions on a Variety of Topics<br />

Currently in development:<br />

• <strong>Gem</strong>stone Treatments and Disclosure<br />

• Amethyst<br />

• Aquamarine and Other Beryls<br />

• Citrine<br />

• Peridot<br />

• Tanzanite<br />

• Additional Selling Skills Modules<br />

As a benefit of Membership in AGTA, each Member company<br />

will get five FREE registered users. Additional staff members<br />

will be $25 per person.<br />

AGTA Student Members: Access to the eLearning platform is<br />

FREE for one year.<br />

Non-member companies can get an annual subscription to the<br />

platform for $350 for up to five staff members, then $75 per<br />

additional staff member.<br />

For larger companies, please contact Adam Graham –<br />

adam@agta.org – for volume pricing.<br />

Sign up today by calling AGTA at 800-972-1162 or emailing<br />

info@agta.org<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 12


M E M B E R P R O F I L E :<br />

B A R B A R A L A W R E N C E<br />

Barbara Lawrence was the owner, as well as the energy, spirit<br />

and driving force behind Boston <strong>Gem</strong>s. When she bought<br />

Boston Findings & Jewelry Supply Company 38 years ago,<br />

the company sold just that- findings and tools. Her interest<br />

in gemstones and fossils transitioned the direction of the<br />

company, and it’s focus became gemstones. As a child she<br />

would collect garnets in the Adirondack Mountains. “Natural<br />

crystals were the hook that got me interested in gemology.<br />

[It’s] amazing that all those atoms line up to form perfect<br />

crystals. I still find that part magical.”<br />

Starting Out<br />

Barbara Lawrence started doing small gem shows in New England<br />

with Pat and James Alger. “We slept in Holiday Inn’s or cars,”<br />

adds Barbara. “We were starting from scratch, and we had to<br />

make sacrifices.”<br />

She ventured out to Tucson in 1979. “I shared a room at the Pueblo<br />

with Pat and Jimmy Alger. We spent as much time around the<br />

pool as we did at the booth.” It was a very social atmosphere.<br />

In 1981, a new organization and a new show was formed, the<br />

<strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong> <strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson. “Once<br />

AGTA got started everything became more professional,” adds<br />

Lawrence. The show brought in serious gem dealers and serious<br />

customers. The better business created a different type of fun<br />

with good friends and strong relationships. Boston <strong>Gem</strong>s would<br />

become a member of AGTA in 1983 and has exhibited at the<br />

AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair ever since.<br />

“My passion has always been Tucson.<br />

<strong>Gem</strong>Fair is much more than a<br />

tradeshow- it is an adult summer camp<br />

for the world!”<br />

Catch and Release<br />

Lawrence began searching the globe for gemstones in 1985. She<br />

went to Germany accompanied by James Alger. “We wanted<br />

to find Munsteiner and Idar Oberstein- what we found was<br />

amazing!” recalls Lawrence. Alger went on to sell Munsteiner<br />

cuts and Lawrence went on to sell more traditional gemstones.<br />

According to Lawrence, shopping for gemstones is like going on<br />

a fishing trip. Half of the fun is the adventure and the beautiful<br />

surroundings, and the other half is the catch. Although Asia is<br />

13 AGTA AGTA PRISM|SPRING PRISM|SPRING 2011 2011


changing by the day, there are still beautiful<br />

small fishing villages left. When Barbara<br />

travels to Hong Kong, she stays in such a<br />

village, Mui Wo. The villages is located on<br />

the opposite side of the island where the airport<br />

and gem show exist. There are few cars, fresh<br />

seafood, and great trails for hiking.<br />

“The catch for me are the fine gemstones.”<br />

<strong>Gem</strong>stones that are too included, small, too<br />

large, or expensive are “catch and release.”<br />

Unlike fish, putting them back does not breed<br />

more, so when the right gemstone comes along,<br />

it is a “keeper,” and the excitement is still there<br />

when she finds the keepers.<br />

“As a gift ft for or lovers the<br />

moonstone takes high rank,<br />

fo for it is believed to arouse<br />

the tender passion.”<br />

George Frederick Kunz<br />

Lawrence deals in all gemstones, but she is<br />

known for her beautiful moonstones. The way<br />

moonstones interact with light reveals its unique<br />

optical phenomena known as adularescence.<br />

Her favorite of the feldspars is Indian rainbow<br />

moonstone that showcases orange, purple, blue<br />

and green. “The soft, bright, glowing coming<br />

out of the stone winks at you in its various colors<br />

and price points.” Moonstone is one of the most<br />

beautiful gemstones in the world, but also one<br />

of the least expensive. If the public ever realized<br />

just how rare large clean moonstones are, the<br />

prices would dramatically increase.<br />

Coming on Board<br />

In 2001, AGTA launched the Consumer Seal<br />

of Confidence program to build consumer<br />

confidence in their colored gemstone purchases<br />

and to direct them to jewelers who adhere to<br />

the AGTA’s strong ethical and professional<br />

requirements. This program propelled<br />

Lawrence’s interest in serving on the AGTA<br />

Board of Directors and as President for 2007 -<br />

2008. Barbara currently remains on the Board<br />

as the Past President. “AGTA has grown to meet<br />

the much larger membership encompassing the<br />

retailer and the consumer,” Lawrence adds. In<br />

addition, for the past 10 years, Lawrence has<br />

also been a jewelry program advisor for the<br />

oldest craft school in the country, North Bennet<br />

Street School.<br />

Adding Fine Jewelry to the Mix<br />

Boston <strong>Gem</strong>s expanded into the fine jewelry<br />

market with its custom-designed jewelry<br />

collection, Lunar Essence. Each piece in<br />

Lunar Essence is created by leading designers<br />

featuring Boston <strong>Gem</strong>s’ moonstones. “The<br />

pieces in this jewelry line showcase our ‘Bella<br />

Luna’ moonstones which means ‘beautiful<br />

moon’ in Italian,” comments Lawrence.<br />

The unique concept of drawing on the<br />

artistic skills and talents of a group of<br />

designers allows Boston <strong>Gem</strong>s to highlight<br />

moonstones from numerous different and<br />

divergent perspectives. The consumer truly<br />

gets to choose a piece that defines their<br />

own individual personality and style.<br />

“Buyers are looking for designs with large-sized<br />

gemstones that have a strong fashion impact.<br />

Moonstone is a hot pick, because of its beauty<br />

and affordable price, but also because there<br />

are no known treatments for the gemstone,”<br />

adds Barbara.<br />

Time for Change<br />

“The world has gotten smaller,” Lawrence<br />

expresses. “<strong>American</strong> manufacturers are no<br />

longer looking to source gemstones from<br />

AGTA Members.” Indeed, manufacturing has<br />

moved to overseas, and the middle-man has<br />

been eliminated. However, Lawrence notes<br />

that the designer population has grown in the<br />

past several years, and that there are other areas<br />

of growth.<br />

Having recently sold Boston <strong>Gem</strong>s to her<br />

business partner, her next dream job is to do<br />

lectures on the beauty of color and disclosure.<br />

“There is still a need to educate both the retailer<br />

and the consumer about gemstone treatments I<br />

love the industry, I love rocks!”<br />

For further information about Lawrence, or for<br />

lecture information, contact her at<br />

moonstone.lawrence@gmail.com<br />

AGTA AGTA PRISM|SPRING PRISM|SPRING 2011 2011 14


EXHIBITION & SALE<br />

Munich <strong>Trade</strong> Fair Centre, Hall B6<br />

GEOFA - Dealers Day<br />

Fr, Oct. 28 th , for professionals only<br />

BÖRSE - Public Fair<br />

Sa, Oct. 29 th , Su, Oct. 30 th<br />

FR/SA 9am-7pm, SU 9am-6pm<br />

The <strong>Gem</strong>worldMunich<br />

is part of the Munich Show,<br />

Mineralientage München.<br />

15 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011<br />

Meet the international <strong>Gem</strong>world in Munich.<br />

October 28 - 30, 2011<br />

www.gemworldmunich.com<br />

Since 2009 the <strong>Gem</strong>worldMunich has<br />

become an important European<br />

platform for the precious stone and<br />

jewellery industry in autumn.<br />

The <strong>Gem</strong>worldMunich takes place in<br />

an entire hall of 12’000 m 2 within the<br />

Mineralientage München.<br />

With the exclusive <strong>Gem</strong>world Pavilion<br />

an ideal environment is created for<br />

business and networking.


C O L O R M E B R I D A L<br />

<br />

Omi <strong>Gem</strong>s<br />

By Deborah Yonick<br />

ridal couples today are rewriting the wedding playbook to reflect more individuality in their nuptials.<br />

B People feel free to express themselves in their weddings, and that extends to their bridal rings.<br />

“Traditional paradigms about how a wedding should be use their wedding colors or birthstones in their rings. They want<br />

and how significant elements of the wedding are looked upon them to represent their love and life as a couple.”<br />

are changing,” describes Michael O’Connor, style expert and Although color is more likely to show up in the bride’s rings,<br />

TV commentator. He credits the shift, in part, to celebrity Courtney says she enjoys surprising the groom by adding the<br />

influence in highly publicized engagements and weddings same gem as his bride has on the inside of his band. “It’s their<br />

that showcase unique approaches to rings, especially use of<br />

colored gemstones.<br />

little secret and a great personal touch.”<br />

Thirty years after it made a splash for color in the bridal market, <strong>Gem</strong> Faves<br />

the 18 carat blue sapphire Princess Diana wore when she wed Classically speaking, blue sapphire reigns as a top colored<br />

Prince Charles is now on the finger of Kate Middleton, her son gemstone choice in bridal, followed by fancy color sapphires<br />

Prince William’s bride. Beyond Brit royals, Hollywood’s elite (especially pink and yellow) and ruby, as corundum gems are<br />

wear gemstone engagement rings like Penelope Cruz in blue second in hardness to diamond.<br />

sapphire, Nicole Richie in pink sapphire and Jessica Simpson “Sapphire is the most popular, partly because of its royal blue<br />

in ruby. Among the most coveted options, colored diamonds color and also since it’s generally more affordable than ruby and<br />

have a big fan base, especially for yellows, champagnes and emerald of similar size and quality,” explains Niveet Nagpal,<br />

pinks, including Carrie Underwood in yellow and Mariah Carey principal with Omi <strong>Gem</strong>s, an AGTA Member, Los Angeles-<br />

in pink.<br />

based fine gem importer and manufacturer.<br />

“Color allows women to showcase their sense of style,” Next to sapphire, ruby and emerald lead as bridal ring choices.<br />

describes Amanda Gizzi, spokesperson for Jewelers of America, But Nagpal also has requests for spinel and alexandrite. The<br />

Jewelry Information Center (JIC). “Everyone has a favorite demand inspired Omi <strong>Gem</strong>s to develop a colored gemstone<br />

color and every color tends to make women feel differently. bridal line, says Nagpal, who took first place in bridal wear in<br />

That’s perhaps why women are falling head over heels for the 2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards jewelry design competition<br />

colored gemstone engagement rings. Sapphires, rubies, and for a nearly 6 carat tsavorite ring with yellow diamond accents<br />

aquamarines are just a few of the gemstones being worn by set in platinum and 18K gold.<br />

these trendsetting brides.”<br />

“In the past, brides opted for colored gems in their rings<br />

Erica Courtney, Hollywood designer to the stars and AGTA because they couldn’t afford a nice or large diamond,” says<br />

Member, has found that women love morganite, pink tourmaline Nagpal. “Now, people are spending big money on color for its<br />

and moonstone. The multi-AGTA Spectrum Award winner own merits. They wear colored gemstone engagement rings to<br />

has even used green quartz in bridal rings.<br />

show off their individuality and to feel like a celebrity.”<br />

“Since we no longer live in an era of homogeny, people are Posts by fans on AGTA Member LeVian’s Facebook page<br />

willing to be bold and unique,” says Courtney. “Couples love to share stories of engagement rings centered with gemstones like<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 16


Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald and Diamond ring by<br />

Jane Wulbrandt.<br />

<br />

Black Diamond ring by Erica Courtney.<br />

<br />

Yellow Tourmaline ring byVielle Jewelers, LLC.<br />

17 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011<br />

(Color Me Bridal Continued)<br />

Raspberry Rhodolite Garnet®, Ocean Blue Topaz, Aquamarine, and Cotton<br />

Candy Amethyst®, tells Eddie LeVian, owner of the Great Neck, New York<br />

based jewelry manufacturer.<br />

Multi-Spectrum winner and AGTA Member, Robert Pelliccia of JR Dunn<br />

Jewelers in Lighthouse Point, Florida says the trend for color in bridal has<br />

become an important niche, especially in custom design work. “Years ago<br />

it had to be a white diamond. Now, more brides are saying “yes” to many<br />

gems.” He says it’s about 50/50 that color-minded brides choose a gemstone<br />

center or accents.<br />

Atlanta-based designer Jane Wullbrandt notes that secret or surprise<br />

gemstones worked in the gallery of the ring are often the most symbolic to<br />

a couple, representing the birthstones of the children entering a new family<br />

union or colors/gemstones with special meaning to the couple. “It’s a subtle<br />

way to add sentiment,” says the AGTA Member and multi-Spectrum winner.<br />

Whether used as the center gemstone, side accents or hidden inside the<br />

gallery work, blue sapphire requests are on the rise for couple looking to bring<br />

a bit of good luck to the marriage in the bridal rings, reports LeVian.<br />

Gone Viral<br />

Pelliccia attributes the proliferation of bridal shows, magazines and web sites<br />

for raising awareness about non-traditional bridal options. He says requests<br />

for certain colors spike after important Who’s Wearing What posts go viral<br />

online. With the royal nuptials looming, it’s no surprise blue sapphire requests<br />

are up. In fact, Pelliccia took platinum honors in the bridal division of the<br />

2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards with a blue sapphire platinum ring accented<br />

by sapphires and diamonds.<br />

Another example, one that truly solidifies the trend for bridal color, is<br />

demand for black diamond rings—inspired by Mr. Big giving Carrie a 5 carat<br />

rock in the final scene of the film Sex and the City 2. More couture than taboo,<br />

Big gave Carrie a black diamond ring because she’s “not like anyone else!”<br />

While Israeli designer Nelly Cohen for Cherie Dori is not convinced that<br />

black diamond rings will be a big trend, she does see a strong penchant for<br />

stacking black and white diamond bands. She advocates the use of black<br />

diamonds be subtle and tailored. “It’s best as a trim around the edge of the<br />

shank, or eternity style,” she explains.<br />

But most striking has been a strong trend for champagne, cognac and<br />

chocolate diamonds, reports LeVian, who has had tremendous success with<br />

the brand’s Chocolate Diamonds, often paired with Strawberry Gold, in<br />

engagement ring designs. In fact, LeVian hails the chocolate theme as big in<br />

weddings, overall, including the bands for both bride and groom. He says that<br />

since December, brown diamonds have really taken off in the bridal category.<br />

San Francisco-based designer, Pratima Sethi for Sethi Couture, deems<br />

brown diamonds almost as popular as yellow diamonds, translating their<br />

success in fashion to bridal. Like yellow diamonds, she says the browns work<br />

well in both a starring or supporting role in the ring design.<br />

The key for most color-minded brides, notes Courtney, is that the ring design<br />

looks traditional. The twist is in the gems selected; and the sky’s the limit in<br />

color, type and combination. So, drop the formalities, get introspective, and<br />

think inside the crayon box!<br />

See the hautest looks, visit www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com.


AGTA ADDS C OLOR TO C ONCLAVE<br />

<br />

NEI Group<br />

<br />

Paula Crevoshay<br />

T<br />

he AGTA participated in the<br />

recent <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> Society<br />

(AGS) Conclave in San Francisco<br />

by providing education and<br />

promoting colored gemstones and<br />

pearls at the event. The Conclave<br />

was held in San Francisco, April<br />

27-30.<br />

“It is really important for AGTA to<br />

have a presence at the AGS Conclave to<br />

educate and inform AGS members about<br />

colored gemstones and pearls, as well as<br />

<br />

Zultanite <strong>Gem</strong>s, LLC<br />

showcase the beautiful products from our<br />

Members,” stated Douglas K. Hucker,<br />

AGTA CEO. “It is a perfect time for all<br />

retailers to get more involved with color<br />

due to recent bridal and fashion trends<br />

as well as the great margins that are still<br />

available in this category.”<br />

The AGS Supplier Fashion Show featured<br />

jewelry designs by over 20 AGS members.<br />

AGTA ensured colored gemstones and<br />

pearls would be represented by bringing<br />

a version of the <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong><br />

<strong>Association</strong> Collection that appears at<br />

Red Carpet events. 11 AGTA Member<br />

designers participated in the AGTA<br />

Collection with two showcases of<br />

fabulous jewelry designs and gemstones.<br />

The model representing AGTA in the<br />

fashion show wore designs by the NEI<br />

Group, Dallas Prince & Company,<br />

Paula Crevoshay, Oberon & Caswell,<br />

and Zultanite Designs. The fashion<br />

show’s coordinator, Helena Krodel of<br />

the Jewelry Information Center, wore a<br />

beautiful sapphire suite by Omi <strong>Gem</strong>s.<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 18


19 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011


Yael Designs<br />

<br />

Jane Taylor<br />

Other AGTA Collection participants<br />

included Parle’, Brenda Smith, Jane<br />

Taylor, Clare Ullman, and Yael Designs.<br />

Next up for the AGTA Collection will<br />

be the Primetime Emmy Awards later<br />

this summer.<br />

hand to share his insights and gave a<br />

styling demonstration with models and a<br />

variety of fashion looks accessorized with<br />

colored gemstone and pearl jewelry from<br />

the AGTA Collection, as well as AGTA<br />

Members Lika Behar, Robert Bentley,<br />

Erica Courtney and Katie Diamond.<br />

<br />

Brenda Smith<br />

<br />

Clare Ullman<br />

<strong>Gem</strong>Fair Tucson seminar program and<br />

the new AGTA eLearning Platform that<br />

recently launched. AGS members also<br />

view education as an important aspect<br />

of their business, so both programs were<br />

well-received.<br />

AGTA presented two educational<br />

AGTA will continue to participate in<br />

seminars at the Conclave. The first, titled As education is one of the primary industry events throughout the year as<br />

“The Color of Success”, was presented missions of AGTA, it was appropriate a way of providing information and<br />

by AGTA Marketing Manager Adam that AGTA sponsored the AGS education on colored gemstones and<br />

Graham. This session shared strategies, Titleholders Luncheon, which celebrates pearls. Scheduled upcoming events with<br />

tips and resources to help retailers sell AGS members who receive new titles Jewelry Camp, the Arkansas Jewelers<br />

more colored gemstones and pearls. The and those who have had titles for many <strong>Association</strong>, and the Mid-America<br />

second session was presented by Douglas years. Douglas Hucker made a short Jewelry Show in Columbus, OH. Please<br />

Hucker with a focus on fashion and presentation at the event that focused contact Adam Graham – adam@agta.org<br />

working with celebrities and their stylists. on the AGTA’s efforts to provide more – if you are interested in having AGTA<br />

Celebrity stylist Tod Hallman was on learning opportunities through the AGTA participate at your next event.<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 20


T O R R E S D E<br />

P A I N R I N G<br />

C<br />

ynthia Rénee Zava, of Cynthia<br />

Rénee, Inc., guides clients through<br />

the intricacies of the colored gemstone<br />

market and into the creative process<br />

of transforming rough minerals to<br />

faceted gemstones into jewelry designed<br />

to complement the gemstone and<br />

wearer perfectly.<br />

Her company produces impeccably made<br />

gemstones and jewelry. Cynthia Rénee Zava<br />

uses her two decades of experience assisting<br />

clients through the process of transforming<br />

an idea into a piece of jewelry that distills the<br />

essence of the wearer’s life.<br />

21 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011<br />

Thanks to the priority she puts on<br />

communication and honesty, her clients<br />

are comfortable entrusting her to make<br />

decisions for them in building their<br />

world-class collections. The designer is<br />

constantly developing new techniques and<br />

experimenting with usages gemstones and<br />

metals.<br />

“My lifework is giving my clients the<br />

aesthetic and intellectual connection to<br />

something great and enduring: the power,<br />

beauty and earth history of colored gemstones<br />

set in jewelry that embodies their memories,<br />

experiences and aesthetic.”<br />

One client, Mary, with her husband and<br />

children joined her parents on a trip to Chile<br />

to visit their Chilean relatives and tour<br />

Patagonia, the remote mountainous southern<br />

tip of the country known for its massive<br />

granite towers and glaciers. Unfortunately,<br />

after a few days of outdoor play in the<br />

Torres de Paine National Park, Mary’s father<br />

suffered a massive heart attack.<br />

The closest medical care required an 11 hour<br />

car trip to a primitive hospital. From there,<br />

Mary’s father was airlifted to a more modern<br />

hospital. Her father recovered, and the trip<br />

became a turning point for the family.


Start with the Stone:<br />

“As Mary told me this story, I wondered<br />

how we could commemorate the feelings<br />

in a piece of jewelry,” said Zava. Mary’s<br />

daughter, Kate, has eyes of crystal blue.<br />

Previously, Cynthia had matched Kate’s eyes<br />

with an unusual parcel of blue Tourmaline<br />

from Afghanistan and custom-cut eleven<br />

gems for various pieces of jewelry in honor<br />

of Kate’s blue eyes. One piece remained.<br />

After viewing photos of Mary’s family time<br />

in Chile, Cynthia let the images set in. To<br />

commemorate their moving experience in<br />

Chile, the designer suggested a ring with the<br />

last of “Kate’s Eyes” blue Tourmaline. The<br />

compelling features of Patagonia, the granite<br />

spires of Torres de Paine, combined with the<br />

icy blue of the area’s glacial ice and lakes<br />

which, coincidently, matched Kate’s eyes,<br />

set the foundation for the ring.<br />

Designing the Ring:<br />

“I decided to cast the rocky portion of the<br />

ring in 14 karat rose gold – a particularly<br />

rosy alloy, because of the family photo of the<br />

mountains glowing with pink “alpenglow”<br />

at sunset,” says Cynthia.<br />

Cynthia captured the jagged mountain<br />

ridges seen in the ring’s profile. Just as<br />

glaciers carved the Patagonian mountains’<br />

sharp peaks and ridges, an expansive white<br />

gold “glacier” would be placed between the<br />

ring’s rose gold mountains.<br />

After conceptual sketches, the designer<br />

used the “horns” of the ridges as prongs.<br />

The gemstone is held by the mountaintops<br />

and offered to the heavens, much like the<br />

family’s prayers during their ordeal.<br />

The outer wax frame with the ridges and<br />

prongs was hand-carved using Mary’s family<br />

photos as a guide and a little Google Maps<br />

research. This outer portion of the ring was<br />

cast in 14 karat rose gold before the inner<br />

white gold glacier portion was formed. The<br />

shank was carved with a round center and<br />

slightly squared outer shape for comfort and<br />

to prevent spinning.<br />

After the rose gold mountain frame was cast,<br />

she visited Mary and her family bringing<br />

sheets of soft wax to form the inner, white<br />

gold, glacial portion. To help achieve this<br />

section’s matte texture, Mary, her children,<br />

husband and parents imprinted their<br />

overlapping fingerprints onto the wax sheet.<br />

They layered fingerprint upon fingerprint.<br />

Unrecognizable as fingerprints, the family<br />

would know they were there together,<br />

leaving their marks through a ring that would<br />

be passed down through the generations.<br />

To get the fingerprints to adhere, she slightly<br />

warmed the wax with a blow dryer making<br />

it receptive to the fingers’ tiny ridges<br />

and swirls. “We weren’t after accurate<br />

fingerprints. It was important that the<br />

family left a mark of themselves in the wax<br />

together. Three generations of fingerprints<br />

held in the ring.”<br />

Once back at the shop, small sections were<br />

cut from the sheet of wax and pried into the<br />

central areas of the rose gold frame taking<br />

care to keep the fingerprints’ embedded<br />

while maneuvering the wax. The wax was<br />

then pulled out and cast separately in 14<br />

karat white gold. She used a regular nickel<br />

white gold alloy for its grayer hue and<br />

oxidation color.<br />

After casting in 14 karat white gold, the piece<br />

was left rough finished and not polished. It<br />

was then oxidized and laser welded into the<br />

mounting. The 5.69 carat, “Kate’s Eyes”<br />

blue Tourmaline was then set. Cynthia was<br />

awarded a 1st place for this design.<br />

“Creating jewelry for a client is an intimate<br />

process. By the time I’ve completed a few<br />

pieces for them, I know my client and their<br />

families very well.”<br />

Special thanks to team members Mirjam<br />

Butz, Clay Zava and Lynne Stoner.<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 22


AGTA’ S R E D C A R P E T E F F O R T S:<br />

T<br />

he <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong> is dedicated to<br />

the promotion of colored gemstones and pearls, and<br />

one way that we accomplish this is by actively working<br />

to get our Members’ jewelry placed on celebrities at<br />

high profile awards shows. The AGTA Collection<br />

Red Carpet Program has had a presence at the Golden<br />

Globe Awards, the Academy Awards and the Primetime<br />

Emmy Awards in recent years.<br />

You may ask why it is important to get celebrity placements,<br />

and the answer is quite simple – celebrities have become the<br />

single most influential group in a consumer’s purchase decision,<br />

surpassing even friends, according to a study done by AM<br />

Demographics. Our culture is celebrity-driven with the most<br />

popular television shows and magazines reporting on celebrities’<br />

every move. Celebrities are the trend-setters when it comes to<br />

fashion, so it is important for us to do what we can to make sure<br />

that they accessorize with colored gemstones and pearls.<br />

The AGTA Collection is a way for us to use the economies of<br />

scale to allow for individual Members to have a presence at special<br />

events, where they might not be able to afford to participate on<br />

their own. Participation in the AGTA Collection is open to<br />

all AGTA Members. The variety of designers also makes the<br />

collection a really eclectic selection of jewelry for celebrities and<br />

stylists to choose from. Generally, we have a high percentage of<br />

our pieces chosen for placement at events due to the quality and<br />

style of our Members’ submissions.<br />

AGTA works with the StyleLab Jewelry Preview Suite at the Red<br />

Carpet events. The suite is typically set up for three to four days<br />

prior to the event at a secret location in Los Angeles. Celebrities,<br />

stylists and the media can view the jewelry on a by-appointmentonly<br />

basis. Jewelry expert and stylist Michael O’Connor of Style<br />

& Substance is on hand in the suite to help select the jewelry<br />

that best accessorizes their outfits for the Red Carpet. Michael’s<br />

passion for colored gemstones and pearls is contagious and one of<br />

the reasons for many of our placements.<br />

“Working with the <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong> as a<br />

partner for my celebrity dressing events is such a pleasure,” says<br />

O’Connor. “Not only does it allow me to showcase a rainbow<br />

of colored gemstone options, but it helps me provide celebrities<br />

and stylists creative, unique and well-crafted jewelry from the<br />

talented AGTA roster. It definitely allows me to meet every<br />

styling aesthetic.”<br />

The day after the event is spent scouring all of the sources for<br />

images of the celebrities that wore the jewelry. We try to provide<br />

23 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011<br />

<br />

Actress Ella Thomas trying on<br />

earrings by Brenda Smith for the<br />

AGTA Collection<br />

<br />

Dallas Prince<br />

<br />

Shaftel & Co.<br />

<br />

Lauren Francis and Amanda<br />

Jones, stylists for The TV Guide<br />

Network, working with stylist<br />

Michael O’Connor and pieces<br />

from the AGTA Collection<br />

- turquoise ring by Yoki and<br />

turquoise earrings by Lika Behar.<br />

<br />

Sethi Couture


B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S<br />

<br />

Celebrity stylist Tod Hallman<br />

looking at a cuff by A. Punto for<br />

the AGTA Collection in the<br />

styling suite at the 2011 Academy<br />

Awards®.<br />

<br />

Yael Designs<br />

<br />

Sharon Osbourne on “America’s<br />

Got Talent” in emerald jewelry by<br />

AGTA Members Kazanjian Bros.<br />

and Dena Kemp.<br />

<br />

Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC<br />

<br />

Paspaley<br />

quality pictures of each individual in our Members’ jewelry – it<br />

is the primary reason they participate in the program. Whether<br />

they say it or not, by wearing the jewelry, each of the celebrities is<br />

endorsing the brand that they wear. It is instant fashion credibility<br />

for that designer and some great PR ammunition to share with<br />

their clients and potential clients.<br />

AGTA creates a post-show report to highlight all of the colored<br />

gemstones and pearls that were worn, not only from the AGTA<br />

Collection, but across the board. It is important for our<br />

Members to show to retail buyers and consumers that color needs<br />

to be a bigger part of their future purchases. We also follow up<br />

on opportunities that arise from the suite, such as working closer<br />

with key stylists in television and movie production. As a result<br />

of contacts made at the suite, for example, we were able to place<br />

colored gemstone jewelry on Sharon Osbourne for the final four<br />

shows of America’s Got Talent and placed multiple pieces of<br />

jewelry in the upcoming Warner Bros. Crazy, Stupid, Love. with<br />

Julianne Moore.<br />

In the grand scheme of things, we are placing colored gemstone<br />

and pearl jewelry on key trend-setters in a very visible arena.<br />

We look at this as having a trickle-down effect on the jewelry<br />

decisions that celebrities, their stylists and, ultimately, consumers<br />

make. Color is hot, it’s interesting, and it allows people to make<br />

a much more personal statement about their individual style –<br />

which is really important to those individuals who want to stand<br />

out and make an impression.<br />

“THE AGTA HAS OPENED MY<br />

EYES TO THE WORLD OF<br />

COLORED GEMSTONES.”<br />

TOD HALLMAN - CELEBRITY STYLIST<br />

“I look forward to seeing the AGTA Collection during awards<br />

season as I’m always on the hunt for fresh, colorful, interesting<br />

jewelry for the clients I am styling,” adds celebrity stylist Tod<br />

Hallman. “AGTA has opened my eyes to the world of colored<br />

gemstones and the plethora of options available to help my clients<br />

express their individuality.”<br />

The <strong>American</strong> <strong>Gem</strong> <strong>Trade</strong> <strong>Association</strong> is committed to<br />

maximizing the exposure of colored gemstones and pearls as the<br />

best fashion accessories through many different channels. The<br />

AGTA Collection Red Carpet program is just one way that we<br />

are getting the word out. If you would like to participate in future<br />

styling suites, please contact Adam Graham – adam@agta.org or<br />

at 800-972-1162.<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 24


25 AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011


N E W M E M B E R S<br />

Firm Members<br />

Brazilian <strong>Gem</strong> Source, Inc.<br />

Marcelo Fernandes<br />

Coins Rocks <strong>Gem</strong>s, Inc.<br />

Charles R. Coyle<br />

Color First<br />

Raja Shah<br />

Sheahan Stephen Sapphires<br />

Sheahan R. Stephen<br />

Shivam Imports<br />

Ratan Poddar<br />

Associated Industry<br />

Professionals<br />

BlueCap Productions<br />

Bryan Swoboda<br />

Buyers Market of <strong>American</strong><br />

Craft & Niche: The Show<br />

Owned by the Rosen Group<br />

Jean Thompson<br />

Diamond Appraisal By<br />

Stoddard<br />

Chuck Stoddard<br />

Palladium Alliance<br />

International<br />

John R. Stark<br />

Paul Champagne<br />

Paul Champagne<br />

Syma Systems, Division of Art<br />

Guild, Inc.<br />

Stanley R. Hyams<br />

Talisman, LLC<br />

Andrea M. Riso<br />

Estate Jewelers<br />

47th Diamond District Corp.<br />

Kedem Deltis<br />

Lydia Storer<br />

Lydia Storer<br />

Manufacturing Members<br />

Agere Treasure<br />

Hewan Zewdi<br />

ALZ, Ltd.<br />

Amalia Zanette<br />

Annabelle<br />

Ann Fagin<br />

Art Metals Studio<br />

Christopher Sklba<br />

Clare Ullman Design<br />

Clare Ullman<br />

D & M <strong>Gem</strong> Creations<br />

Nancy Denk<br />

Desert Jewel Designs<br />

Patricia Shepherd<br />

Gold Arts<br />

Mel Indelicato<br />

Halcraft USA, Inc.<br />

Clifford Wallach<br />

He Design<br />

Henry Elfering<br />

Jewelry Designs by Susan<br />

Susan Pesavento<br />

Jewelry Factory<br />

Paul Jensen<br />

JJ Buckar<br />

Jacob Buckareff<br />

Mario Jewelers of Beverly<br />

Hills, Inc.<br />

Mario Padilla<br />

Navajo Arts & Crafts<br />

Enterprise<br />

JT Willie<br />

Patrick Mohs, LLC<br />

Mary Kay Mohs<br />

Princess Jewelry<br />

Yong Kim<br />

Real Precious <strong>Trade</strong>, Inc.<br />

Vivek Dugar<br />

Sheila Cahill Design<br />

Sheila Cahill<br />

Wings First, LLC<br />

Debra Fitch<br />

Wisconsin Charm<br />

Paul Spanbauer<br />

Xeno Praxis/Deb Durant<br />

Custom Jewelry Design<br />

Deborah Durant<br />

Retailers<br />

Allison Neumann Studio<br />

Allison Neumann<br />

Argo & Lehne Jewelers<br />

Robert Argo<br />

Barrington Jewels<br />

Goel Ahdoot<br />

Beeghly & Co. Jewelers<br />

Brian Beeghly<br />

Bilzbiz, Ltd.<br />

Atchara Prakongsap<br />

Carol & Co. Fine Jewelry<br />

Nathan Strickland<br />

Cleveland Jewelry Designs<br />

Niki Novello<br />

Clickverge, LLC<br />

Michael Day<br />

Edward J & Co., Inc.<br />

Jeff Mitchell<br />

Elements Jewelry & Crafts, Inc.<br />

John Flynn<br />

Fine Minerals International/<br />

Royal Rocks<br />

Daniel Trinchillo<br />

Flawless Enterprises, Inc. DBA<br />

Diamond Designs by Bodis<br />

Tim Bodis<br />

G. G. <strong>Gem</strong>s, Inc.<br />

Glenna Gibbons<br />

Generales & Generales<br />

Fine Jewellers<br />

Peter Generales<br />

Genesis Jewelry, Inc.<br />

Joan C. Little<br />

Gibbs & O’Rourke Trading Co.<br />

Abbe O’Rourke<br />

Goldsmith Gallery<br />

Kaye Irwin<br />

Greenwich Jewelers<br />

Jennifer Gandia<br />

Jewelry by Gail, Inc.<br />

Gail E. Kowalski<br />

Johnson the Jeweler, Inc.<br />

Christiana Johnson<br />

Karats<br />

Dan Telleen<br />

Koorey Creations<br />

Grace Koorey<br />

Laura’s Jewelry Designs, LLC<br />

Laura Pool<br />

MK Designs<br />

Marian Strickland<br />

Prima Bella Designs<br />

Elizabeth Price<br />

Schatzley’s Diamond &<br />

Jewelry Design Studio<br />

Jack Schatzley<br />

Silva & Son Jewelry<br />

Sheryl Silva<br />

Simple Elegance <strong>Gem</strong>s<br />

Wendy Greenfield<br />

Stonehaven Jewelry<br />

Ron Lodholz<br />

The Diamond Shop<br />

Thom Kohn<br />

The Karat Patch<br />

Pamela Roehrig<br />

Victorias Jewels, Inc.<br />

Fred Mitchell<br />

Vulcans Forge, LLC<br />

Russell Criswell<br />

Wayzata Jewelers<br />

Jonathan Gilbert<br />

William Kent Corporation<br />

Bill Kent<br />

Woulf & Ury Jewelers<br />

Maurice E. (Maury) Woulf<br />

Students<br />

Aatish Kumar Goel<br />

Amanda Modesta Keyhani<br />

Andrea M. Hajek<br />

Angela N. Alba<br />

Anne M. Carioti<br />

Ayako Nogami<br />

Cecile Rabalais<br />

Cheryle M. Diaz<br />

Chih-hung Yang<br />

Cho Yun Kao<br />

Christina Chan<br />

Daniel Canivet<br />

Danielle Yamamoto<br />

Deborah Haller<br />

Diane Moon<br />

Elizabeth T. Lafferty<br />

Ellen F. Buck<br />

Eva Van Minsel<br />

Franco Rossi<br />

Geoffrey Gaynor<br />

Ginger Field<br />

Jacob Bingham<br />

Jane No<br />

Janis C. Byers<br />

Jeffrey Warnock<br />

Jennifer L. Risdon<br />

Jennifer Susan Klumpe<br />

Johannah Crista A. Rivera<br />

Jon L. Adams<br />

Julie Lawrence<br />

Julien Sahyoun<br />

Katherine Irene Canivet<br />

Kathleen Childress Davidson<br />

Keisuke Kurogi<br />

Kellie O’Neill<br />

Kia Gardner<br />

Laure Sylvie Berdoz<br />

Law Chain Fu<br />

Luminita Hamilton<br />

Mani Pirouzbakht<br />

Marc Allen Fleischer<br />

Margo S. Konikoff<br />

Marielle de Spa<br />

Marrianne Blazzard<br />

Mary Ann Sadek<br />

Mary Engelson<br />

Maryam Fayez<br />

Melissa J. Hildreth<br />

Melissa L. Johnson<br />

Michael D. Cox<br />

Michael Riese<br />

Michelle Crow<br />

Mohammed Zaidan<br />

Norbert Deutschl<br />

Olli-Pekka Rita<br />

Rick Stegner<br />

Ronald Byers<br />

Samia Ahmad<br />

Seth Boston<br />

Sheri Wechsler<br />

Supansa Sooksumphan<br />

Tammy F. Jensen<br />

Terry M. Hajek<br />

Tyler M. Jourdonnais<br />

Yedda Li<br />

Yi-Yu Tsai<br />

Yoko Wakabayashi<br />

AGTA PRISM|SPRING 2011 26


3030 LBJ Fwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234<br />

If it looks too good to be true...<br />

Deep discounts for “fine quality”, little or no information regarding<br />

gemstone treatments, and top-quality gemstones selling<br />

for low-quality prices all raise a red flag – and rightly<br />

so. All too often, they’re a sign of inferior quality or questionable<br />

business practices.<br />

ww.AGTADirectory.com<br />

For natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, the<br />

Buy Smart. Buy Safe.<br />

CELEBRATING THREE DECADES AS THE AUTHORITY IN COLOR<br />

AGTA Member logo is your assurance of quality and value.<br />

Each AGTA Member is committed to the highest standards<br />

of ethics in the industry. Full disclosure of any treatments<br />

provides you with complete confidence in your purchases.<br />

Ensure that you are getting what you pay for by sourcing from<br />

AGTA Members.<br />

AGTA <strong>Gem</strong>Fair <br />

at JCK Las Vegas<br />

June 2-7, 2011

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