Silicon â the global player in cosmetics - Dermaviduals
Silicon â the global player in cosmetics - Dermaviduals
Silicon â the global player in cosmetics - Dermaviduals
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<strong>Silicon</strong> – <strong>the</strong> <strong>global</strong> <strong>player</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>cosmetics</strong> page 2 of 4<br />
loams are processed <strong>in</strong>to heal<strong>in</strong>g earth (“Terra<br />
sana”). As components of cosmetic packs and<br />
masks <strong>the</strong>y absorb <strong>the</strong> body’s own substances<br />
and, on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, <strong>the</strong>y release <strong>the</strong> added<br />
active agent components <strong>in</strong> a controlled way<br />
<strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> sk<strong>in</strong>.<br />
Compared with <strong>the</strong> removal of cream masks<br />
and modelages, however, it is ra<strong>the</strong>r laborious<br />
to remove <strong>the</strong> clay after <strong>the</strong> treatment. An appropriate<br />
product <strong>in</strong> this context is <strong>the</strong> emulsifier-free<br />
cleans<strong>in</strong>g milk. Heal<strong>in</strong>g earths can be<br />
comb<strong>in</strong>ed with various physio<strong>the</strong>rapeutic treatments.<br />
The specific property of clay as ion exchanger<br />
is still more dist<strong>in</strong>ct <strong>in</strong> zeolites. On a<br />
limited scale <strong>the</strong>y even can be used as water<br />
softeners (phosphate replacement) or as an<br />
additive for bath<strong>in</strong>g products. The alum<strong>in</strong>osilicate<br />
bentonite absorbs enormous amounts<br />
of water and forms <strong>in</strong>organic, 5-10 %<br />
thixotropic gels. In comb<strong>in</strong>ation with pigments,<br />
glycols and oils, bentonite and analogous alum<strong>in</strong>osilicates<br />
even are appropriate <strong>in</strong>gredients<br />
for <strong>the</strong> manufactur<strong>in</strong>g of liquid make-ups.<br />
Talc<br />
The naturally occurr<strong>in</strong>g talc (soapstone) is a<br />
particularly soft <strong>in</strong>organic material. In powdered<br />
form it is called talcum, a magnesium<br />
silicate which feels like a lipid substance. It is a<br />
powder component and widely used <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
cosmetic field as it facilitates and enhances <strong>the</strong><br />
application of <strong>the</strong> powder. Fibrous talcum dusts<br />
<strong>in</strong>volve a certa<strong>in</strong> risk, though. Small particles of<br />
<strong>the</strong>se dusts may cause granulomas <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> lung,<br />
similar to asbestos and, <strong>the</strong>y are not biologically<br />
degradable. Hence, <strong>the</strong> cosmetic market<br />
today cont<strong>in</strong>ues to promote talcum free powders.<br />
<strong>Silicon</strong>es<br />
In contrast to silicic acid and silicates, silicones<br />
are completely syn<strong>the</strong>tic substances. Actually,<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir chemical term is siloxanes respectively<br />
polysiloxanes as <strong>the</strong>y consist of shorter or<br />
longer subsequent silicon-oxygen units (-Si-O-<br />
Si-O-). Moreover, every silicon atom has two,<br />
and <strong>the</strong> first and last units of <strong>the</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> have<br />
three hydrocarbyls. If <strong>the</strong>se are two methyl<br />
groups we are deal<strong>in</strong>g with dimethicones<br />
(dimethylpolysiloxanes) which are widely used<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cosmetic <strong>in</strong>dustry.<br />
If <strong>the</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s are r<strong>in</strong>g-like circular structures,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y are called cyclomethicones. Specific<br />
cyclic siloxanes are explicitly designated with<br />
<strong>the</strong> prefix cyclo and <strong>the</strong> suffix siloxane (as for<br />
<strong>in</strong>stance cyclotetrasiloxane).<br />
Methicones have only one methyl group at <strong>the</strong><br />
silicon atoms as well as ano<strong>the</strong>r hydrocarbyl<br />
which is explicitly listed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> INCI as an additive.<br />
Besides <strong>the</strong> relatively simple basic types <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is a multitude of o<strong>the</strong>r polysiloxanes. Instead of<br />
<strong>the</strong> methyl groups, <strong>the</strong>re are o<strong>the</strong>r hydrocarbyls<br />
as well as different functional groups located<br />
at <strong>the</strong> silicon atoms. Accord<strong>in</strong>gly, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are multifarious fields of application. Ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir hydrophobic and condition<strong>in</strong>g properties<br />
are utilized <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>cosmetics</strong> field.<br />
There are volatile and liquid polysiloxanes<br />
which facilitate <strong>the</strong> application of <strong>the</strong> cosmetic<br />
products, and <strong>the</strong>re are highly molecular even<br />
wax-like representatives which rema<strong>in</strong> on <strong>the</strong><br />
sk<strong>in</strong> surface. The hydrophobic effect and simultaneously<br />
velvety feel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> sk<strong>in</strong> care products<br />
is highly appreciated. The smoo<strong>the</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g<br />
and adhesive effect is used <strong>in</strong> cleans<strong>in</strong>g products<br />
and body lotions as for <strong>in</strong>stance for <strong>the</strong><br />
re-fatten<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> sk<strong>in</strong>. The obviously agreeable<br />
feel<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> sk<strong>in</strong> subjectively simulates<br />
a sk<strong>in</strong> recovery which objectively is non-existent.<br />
A broad field of application is given <strong>in</strong><br />
shampoos and hair condition<strong>in</strong>g products.<br />
A small selection of representatives is listed <strong>in</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g whereas this list is not exhaustive:<br />
Dimethicone (INCI): These siloxanes occur <strong>in</strong><br />
a broad variety, from lower viscosity like water<br />
to higher viscosity, depend<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong>ir cha<strong>in</strong><br />
length. The most basic representative with<br />
def<strong>in</strong>ed cha<strong>in</strong> length is hexamethyldisiloxane<br />
(INCI) which has a boil<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>t of 101°C and<br />
is as fluid as water, however, without its typical<br />
cool<strong>in</strong>g effect. The fluid and volatile compounds<br />
are spread<strong>in</strong>g and soften<strong>in</strong>g agents<br />
with low surface tension. They are frequently<br />
used <strong>in</strong> antiperspirants and deodorants and<br />
generally improve <strong>the</strong> combability of wet hair.<br />
The higher molecular, non-volatile representatives<br />
are frequently used <strong>in</strong> comb<strong>in</strong>ation with<br />
m<strong>in</strong>eral oils as lipid substances <strong>in</strong> creams as<br />
well as water-repellent sk<strong>in</strong> protection products.<br />
It is quite a disadvantage for <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustrial<br />
sector that f<strong>in</strong>gerpr<strong>in</strong>ts orig<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g from<br />
silicone-conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g products are quite difficult<br />
to remove from <strong>the</strong> work pieces. That is <strong>the</strong><br />
reason why <strong>in</strong> this sector products often are<br />
promoted as “silicone free”. By <strong>the</strong> way, this<br />
also is a disadvantage <strong>in</strong> connection with hair<br />
products s<strong>in</strong>ce polysiloxanes may accumulate<br />
<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hairs with frequent use of shampoos or<br />
hair conditioners.<br />
Hexamethyldisiloxane (INCI)<br />
Kosmetik Konzept KOKO GmbH & Co.KG • D-42799 Leichl<strong>in</strong>gen • Moltkestr. 25 • www.dermaviduals.com • page 2 of 4