september-2011

TIGER AIRWAYS MAGAZINE 

SEP-OCT 2011 

+ SYDNEY + HANOI + KUALA LUMPUR + SINGAPORE + TAIPEI +

PHOTOGRAPHY LESTER LEDESMA 

EDITORIAL 

Editor Christine Retschlag 

Art Director Marlon Espino 

Senior Sub-Editor Ross Wallace 

Touchdown Editor Mary Weaver 

Photo Editor Nicola McCoy 

Deputy Design Director (Singapore) 

Terence Goh 

Design Director (Singapore) 

Peter Stephens 

Editorial Director (Singapore) 

Liz Weselby 

Executive Creative Director 

Michael Keating 

ADVERTISING 

Group Publisher Shirley D’Souza 

Infl ight Media Specialists Anjumoni 

Konwer, Vikhram Radhakrishnan, 

Andreas Wibowo & May Aung 

Production Managers Kennis Yuen & 

Serene Wong 

Managing Director Gerry Ricketts 

Chief Financial Offi cer Hugh Godsal 

CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke 

Publishing Director Simon Leslie 

Tiger Tales is published for 

Tiger Airways by INK, 

MICA (P) 070/07/2011 

CONTACT INK: 

89 Neil Road #03-01, Singapore 088849 

Tel: +65 6324 2386 

Advertising: 

tiger.ads@ink-global.com 

Editorial: 

tiger.ed@ink-global.com 

Website: www.tigertales.sg 

TIGER AIRWAYS 

Head of Corporate Marketing & 

Ancillary Revenue Derek Yeo 

Tiger Airways Singapore Pte Ltd 

(ARBN 119 900 757; CRN 200312665W) 

Tiger Airways Australia Pty Limited 

(ABN 52 124 369 008) 

FOR PRE-FLIGHT ENQUIRIES AND 

RESERVATIONS, CALL: 

Singapore (main hotline): 

+65 6808 4437 

Australia: +61 (0)3 9999 2888 

Guangzhou: +86 (0)20 2283 0595 

Hong Kong: +852 3060 9155 

India: +800 600 1153 

Indonesia: +1 803 60 1933 

Malaysia: +60 (0)3 7849 4608 

Philippines: +63 (0)2 884 1524 

Thailand: +1 800 601 5637 

Vietnam: +84 (0)8 911 1239 

FOR POST-FLIGHT QUERIES: 

Commercial Services Department 


Changi Airport Post Offi ce 

PO Box 82, Singapore 918143 



PO Box 2101, Gladstone Park 

Melbourne, Victoria 3043, Australia 

New routes, 

Fresh laurels 

Running a successful, low-fare airline is a rewarding challenge. 

And it’s always a cause for celebration when we announce the 

expansion of our network in Asia. On 6 September, Tiger 

Airways launches direct service between Singapore and Cebu. 

On 31 October, we re-launch fl ights between Singapore and 

Bangalore after an 11-month hiatus and on 1 November, Tiger 

Airways starts fl ying to Davao in the Philippines. 

Tiger Airways continues to see higher passenger numbers, 

with 6.1 million people choosing to fl y with us over the 12 months ending in July 

this year – an increase of 12% compared to the same period a year earlier. In June, 

Tiger Airways carried 555,000 passengers – a 9% increase compared to the same 

month last year. Average load factors across Australia and Asia in June were 86%. 

Come March next year, Tiger Airways’ fl eet will boast a total of 26 Airbus A320s 

– six more than it had a year earlier. The increase will support our drive to satisfy the 

growing appetite for low-fare travel in Asia Pacifi c. This follows news that Tiger Airways 

has again earned recognition for its growth, ranking fi rst among low-cost carriers 

and third overall in Changi Airport’s fi rst-ever airline ranking. In a worldwide 

study, Tiger Airways was also named as the leading airline in Asia and Australia and the 

world’s fi fth leading airline for ancillary revenues for the second straight year. Of the 

top 10 carriers, Tiger Airways is the most successful in the Asia-Pacifi c region. 

In this edition, we lay out the itinerary for an unforgettable weekend in Taipei, 

journey to Hat Yai to catch all the action in a bullfi ghting arena, and wander around 

Kuala Lumpur’s old neighbourhood of Pudu. In Australia, we embark on an adrenalinecharged 

journey around Sydney, look ahead to some of the nation’s hottest events 

and examine why Oz is still such a great value-for-money destination. 

And don’t forget, if you want to get ahead of the queue every time to take advantage 

of our fantastic promotions and everyday low, low fares, then sign up today with 

Stripes at www.tigerairways.com.au/stripes. Happy travels! 

Stewart Adams 

MD, Tiger Airways Singapore 

www.facebook.com/tigertalesasia 

© INK. All material in Tiger Tales is 

strictly copyrighted and all rights 

are reserved. Reproduction without 

permission of the publisher is strictly 

forbidden. Every care has been taken 

in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we 

assume no responsibility for the effects arising 

therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine 

are not necessarily those of the publisher or Tiger 

Airways. All information is correct at press time. 



2006 

+ SYDNEY + HANOI + KUALA LUMPUR + SINGAPORE + TAIPEI + 

WELCOME ABOARD 

THIS ISSUE’S 

COVER 

2010 

PHOTOGRAPHER: 

STR New/Reuters 

sep-oct tiger tales 

1

38 

CLASH OF THE TITANS 

Come ringside to watch bullfi ghting 

Thai style 

contents 


48 

HARDCORE SYDNEY 

Take an adrenaline-fuelled break 

in the harbour city 

28FRIDAY, 

SATURDAY, 

SUNDAY IN 

TAIPEI 

The ultimate itinerary for a weekend 

in this vibrant Taiwanese city 

58 

GOLDEN VILLAGE 

Wander the charming streets of 

Malaysia’s Pudu 

sep-oct tiger tales

CALENDAR 

What’s On 

OVERNIGHTER 

Halong Bay, Vietnam 

TOP FIVE 

Top-Flight Inns 

FIRST-TIME 

TRAVELLER 

Thiruvananthapuram 

HOTEL REPORT 

Something Old, 

Something New 

FOCUS 

Only in Australia 

ON THE UP 

On yer bike – Bangkok 

8 

10 

10 

13 

14 

16 

18 

contents 


Travel 

the buzz 

Appetite 

REGULARS 

ON THE MENU 

Uncommon 

Ground 

FOOD NEWS 

The Dish 

AT A GLANCE 

Table for 31... 

days, that is 

CHEFS: 

ON THE GRILL 

Hats off to 

Homecoming 

1 Welcome Note 69 Route Map 70 Touchdown 89 Tiger News 94 Tiger Tips 96 Snapshot 

ISABEL 

PUTINJA 

learned at a 

young age that 

life is more 

interesting 

when lived 

elsewhere. This travel writer 

left her native Canada and lived 

in three different countries 

before settling in South India 

in 2007. In this issue she visits 

Thiruvananthapuram, a city rich 

in culture and history which is 

often overlooked by tourists. 

She shares her views on India 

at www.indiaoutsidemywindow. 

com 

tiger tales sep-oct 

KRIS 

MADDEN 

is an award 

winning travel 

journalist who 

has written 

for many 

Australian and international 

publications. She was named 

‘Travel Trade Writer of the 

Year’ by the Australian Society 

of Travel Writers in 2007 and 

is listed in ‘Who’s Who of 

Australian Women’ for her 

services to travel and tourism. 

Kris, who wrote about things you 

can only do in Australia, lives on 

Sydney’s northern beaches. 

CONTRIBUTORS 

IGOR PRAHIN 

is an avid 

photographer 

and traveller 

originally 

from Australia 

but based 

in Southeast Asia (currently 

Bangkok) for the past 12 

years. His recent trip to Hat 

Yai allowed him to indulge in 

a marvellous blend of Thai, 

Chinese and Muslim fl avours as 

well as witness the unique Thai 

version of bull fi ghting. His 

images are available 

through his website: www. 

southeastasia-images.com 

20 

23 

25 

26 

ELLE CHEN 

has been 

travelling and 

writing for 12 

years as a way 

of meeting, 

understanding 

and connecting with people 

across cultures. She especially 

loves stories of daily life shared 

by the local people in towns, 

villages and cities everywhere, 

including her homeland of 

Malaysia where there is a growing 

appreciation of the old along 

with the new. Her story on Pudu 

examines one of the elegant 

corners of her nation’s past.

PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOLIBRARY 

the buzz 

Calendar Travel 

Appetite Lifestyle 

Magellans Cross, Cebu City 

Welcome to Cebu City, the Philippines, one of 

Tiger Airways’ newest destinations. 

sep-oct tiger tales

1–30 

Sep 

3 

Sep 

Calendar 

What are some of the must-see 

events in September and October? 

We’ve rounded up a list of 

hot happenings across the 

Tiger Airways’ network 

Spring into 

Happiness 

Spring’s 30 Days of Feel-Good 

Fitness aims to raise funds for 

the Black Dog Institute. 

● Across Australia, 

www.blackdoginstitute.org.au 

Steady As 

She Goes 

The Chingay Competition sees 

teams of acrobats test their skill at 

balancing a giant fl ag on a pole. 

● Penang, 

www.visitpenang.gov.my 


9 SEP– 

16 OCT 

BANGKOK 

High Entertainment 

Opera, music, ballet and dance performances by 

troupes from Brazil, Germany, Russia and the UK 

are the cornerstones of Bangkok’s International 

Festival of Dance & Music. Look out for Swan Lake 

on Ice by The Imperial Ice Stars from the UK. 

● Bangkok, www.bangkokfestivals.com

PHOTOGRAPHY SINGAPORE TOURISM, POLKA GALERIE, TOURISM NSW, GETTY IMAGES 

15 Sep- 

12 Oct 

Field of 

Dreams 

Tiptoe through the tulips at this 

colourful festival, less than one 

hour's drive from Melbourne. 

The Tesselaar Tulip Festival 

is set on a working farm and 

features more than half a million 

of these beautiful buds. 

● Melbourne, 

www.tulipfestival.com.au 

Sydney Shines 

The Crave Sydney International Food 

Festival is a month-long celebration of 

food experiences offering large events to 

intimate dinners cooked by leading chefs. 

● Sydney, www.cravefoodfestival.com.au 

30 Sep– 

3 Oct 

Sizzling 

Sounds 

Feel the pounding pulse 

of Latin America over 

three days and nights 

at the Darling Harbour 

Fiesta – Australia’s hottest 

Latin American music and 

dance event. Don’t miss 

the Latina version of Tina 

Turner – Cecilia Noël. 

● Sydney, 

www.darlingharbour.com 

1-31 OCT 

SYDNEY 

calendar the buzz 

10,12,17, 

24 Sep, 

1 Oct 

Start Your Engines 

23–25 

Sep Witness Formula One cars racing on public 

roads at speeds of up to 300kmh during 

the Singtel Singapore Grand Prix. The 5.073km Marina 

Bay Street Circuit presents a riveting combination of 

long straights and challenging turns. 

● Singapore, www.singaporegp.sg 

Spirit in 

the Sky 

The Macau International 

Fireworks Display Contest 

lights up the night sky and 

harks back to a time when 

making fi recrackers was one 

of the city’s three handicrafts. 

● Macau, 

www.macautourism.gov.mo 

15–18 

Sep 

Tastefully 

Done 

Food and wine lovers fl ock to 

Victoria for Taste of Melbourne, 

a showcase for the state’s 

leading produce suppliers, 

winemakers and purveyors of 

gastronomic goodies. 

● Melbourne, www. 

tasteofmelbourne.com.au 


9

10 

OVERNIGHTER 

Halong Bay, Vietnam 

No trip to northern Vietnam is complete without a visit to this natural wonderland, a UNESCO 

World Heritage Site that’s located just three hours east of Hanoi, says Christine Retschlag 

t’s a pea soup sky 

afternoon and I am 

I on a sailing vessel 

in Vietnam. Three 

mysterious men - country-oforigin 

undetermined - sit in the 

corner cradling an icy Tiger 

beer. In the middle of the room a 

French woman of a certain age, 

sans brassiere, is making a cosy 

acquaintance with the lunch 

buffet. Meanwhile I sit in the 

opposite corner, wondering if I 

have been placed in the Captain’s 

Suite, where indeed lays the 

Captain? Amid the myriad 

boats for which Halong Bay has 

become famous, the elegant 

Emeraude sails in a class of her 

IF YOU LIKE THIS TRY... 


own. While the bay is home to 

beach bars, hotels, restaurants 

and even a casino, it’s fair to say 

that you haven’t experienced 

the jewel of Vietnam until you’ve 

sailed her waters. This replica 

craft may lack the history of 

the original, but the Emeraude 

name has become synonymous 

with this part of the world. 

Cruises on the earlier craft, 

part of a fl otilla owned by a 

French family named Roque 

who came here in 1858, were 

fi rst offered in 1910. However, in 

1937 the Emeraude sank (with 

no loss of life) en route from Hai 

Phong to Mong Cai. Fast forward 

to 1999, when a curious visitor 

1VICTORIA HARBOUR, HONG KONG 

Lively Victoria Harbour is a terrifi c place to begin a 

boat journey and aspiring mariners can choose from 

a plethora of traditional Chinese junks here. Saff ron Cruises 

boasts one of the largest fl eets of such sailing vessels in Hong 

Kong and the list of destinations includes Repulse Bay, Hap 

Mun Bay, Shek O, Lantau and Fan Lau. 

www.saff ron-cruises.com 

stumbled across an old postcard 

of the paddle steamer and 

began a time-consuming search 

for its origins. Fate was kind, the 

Roque family was found and a 

new ship under the Emeraude 

name began plying the waters 

of Halong Bay in 2002. Like 

all good travel tales, this is as 

much about the journey as the 

destination. 

WHAT TO DO 

As with viewings of the epic 1992 

fi lm Indochine, which features 

footage of Halong Bay, the key 

to enjoying this destination is 

to sit back, relax and take it all 

in. With a bit of luck, the Halong 

haze will eventually concede 

to blue, allowing for stunning 

views of the bay’s trademark 

limestone karsts. And when the 

boat docks, there’s plenty of 

exploring to be done. Most boats 

stop at Sun Sot Cave or the 

Surprise Grotto, where a journey 

of about 150 steps takes visitors 

to a series of cool caves and to 

some scenic outlooks. Visits to 

fi shing villages and pearl farms 

can also be arranged. Those on 

longer trips should head for Cat 

Ba, Halong Bay’s only populated 

island, to enjoy its beaches, 

lakes, waterfalls and grottos. 

Alternatively, take a dip in the 

bay’s warm waters or grab a 

2TRIVANDRUM, KERALA 

Starting in this city in South India, cruise the backwaters 

of the colourful state of Kerala. Glide past temples, 

fi shing villages and beaches and discover why cruising and 

Kerala are so deeply entwined. Enjoy a traditional ayurveda oil 

massage – for which this region is justly famous – as you fl oat 

past paddy fi elds and coconut groves. 

http://keralabackwaters.us

kayak and explore a few of the 

area’s thousands of islets. 

Back onboard, try everything 

from tai chi classes and 

Vietnamese cooking 

demonstrations to squid fi shing 

and the screening of Indochine. 

WHERE TO STAY 

The Emeraude with its 37 cabins 

decorated in French colonial 

style offers regular one-night, 

two-day cruises. Each cabin 

boasts polished wooden fl oors, 

brass fi xtures, air-conditioning 

and en suite bathrooms with 

showers. For those wishing to 

splurge, upgrade to one of the 

three luxurious suites. Cruise 

FIND IT: 

packages include meals, which 

feature fresh, locally caught 

seafood and Vietnamese 

specialities. There are also 

two bars onboard and plenty 

of deck chairs for lounging 

when you’re not exploring the 

area or mingling with fellow 

passengers onboard. And if 

you’re lucky, you may even 

meet the captain. 

HOW TO GET THERE 

A private shuttle bus runs 

between Hanoi and the pier 

at Halong Bay. Buses leave 

the Emeraude Sales Offi ce at 

8.30am and depart the pier 

at noon. 

● Emeraude Classic Cruises, 46 Le Thai To St, Hoan 

Kiem, Hanoi, tel: +84 (0)4 3935 1888, www.emeraudecruises.com 

● Royal Casino, 1 Bai Chay Beach, Halong City, tel: +84 

(0)33 384 6728, www.casinocity.com/vn/halongcity/ 

rylintcl/ 

● Café 555, Opposite the Bai Chay Tourist Wharf 

TOP 

travel the buzz 

Top-Flight Inns 

Resort-style establishments complete with rows of 

deckchairs and luxurious day spas are redefi ning the 

airport hotel concept, says Tiana Templeman 

1Pullman Guangzhou Baiyun Airport, 

Guangzhou Each smart, modern room here is 

decked out with quality linens and all the mod 

cons. Executive rooms include access to a 

plush club lounge. www.pullmanhotels.com 

2 

Hotel Novotel Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport, 

Bangkok Check in whenever your fl ight arrives 

and check out 24 hours later – your room is 

always ready at this family-friendly airport hotel 

with an immense pool. www.novotel.com 

3Crowne Plaza Changi Airport, Singapore 

Soothing tropical gardens create a calming 

oasis for travellers, who are cosseted from the 

moment they arrive. Rooms are designer cool, 

with sleek furnishings. www.crowneplaza.com 

4 

Pan Pacifi c Kuala Lumpur International 

Airport, Kuala Lumpur Plush furnishings and the 

prospect of sampling as many as 150 cuisines at 

Degrees, the hotel’s 24-hour restaurant, are the 

main attractions here. www.panpacifi c.com 

5Regal Airport Hotel, Hong Kong Named as the 

World’s Best Airport Hotel in the latest Skytrax 

Passengers Choice Awards, the Regal boasts 

the Kiddie Wonderland playroom and multiple 

pools. Soundproof windows keep any airport 

noise at bay. www.regalhotel.com 


11

PHOTOGRAPHY WWW.VARIKATTHERITAGE.COM, KERALAM MUSEUM, GETTY IMAGES 

HISTORY BUFFS 

Thiruvananthapuram boasts 

many examples of traditional 

Kerala architecture, the 

Maharaja of Travancore’s 

majestic, 18th-century 

Puthenmalika Palace among 

them. Made of wood, it 

features beautiful carvings, 

red-tiled sloping roofs and many 

courtyards and verandas. The 

museum here showcases the 

Maharaja’s collection of 19thcentury 

paintings, sculptures 

and chandeliers. 

Varikatt Heritage is a 150-yearold, 

Indo-Saracenic-style home. 

One of only three listed heritage 

properties in Kerala, it has been 

lovingly restored. 

The exhibits at the Keralam 

Museum of History and Heritage 

trace Kerala’s past from 

Neolithic times. Displays include 

wood carvings, stone and bronze 

sculptures, musical instruments, 

traditional murals and a replica 

of a Nalukettu house. 

travel the buzz 


Never been to Kerala’s capital? Isabel Putinja offers four customised itineraries 

● Puthenmalika Palace, 

Next to Padmanabhaswamy 

Temple, East Fort, tel: +91 

(0)471 247 3952 

● Varikatt Heritage, Poonnen 

Rd, tel: +91 (0)98 9523 9055, 

www.varikattheritage.com 

● Keralam Museum of History 

and Heritage, Park View, tel: 

+91 (0)95 6701 9037, 

www.museumkeralam.org 

CULTURE LOVERS 

At the Sri Chitra Art Gallery, 

visitors can view original 

paintings by Raja Ravi Varma, 

India’s most famous – and 

most copied – classical 

painter. Also on display are 

works by Indian contemporary 

artists and reproductions of 

the Ajanta Caves’ frescoes and 

traditional Kerala murals. 

Housed in a magnifi cent 

building with high ceilings and 

wooden beams, the Napier 

Museum is home to an eclectic 

array of artefacts collected by 

the Maharaja of Travancore 

during his travels through 

South and East Asia. There are 

shadow puppets from Java, 

masks from Bali and Ceylon, 

and Chinese porcelain. 

Kalaripayattu, the ancient 

martial art of Kerala, is taught 

at CVN Kalari Sangam. Watch 

students going through their 

rigorous morning exercises in 

the kalari, a dug-out dirt pit. 

● Sri Chitra Art Gallery, 

Museum Compound, tel: 

+91 (0)471 231 6275, www. 

keralamuseumandzoo.org 

● Napier Museum, Museum 

Compound, tel: +91 

(0)471 231 6275, www. 

keralamuseumandzoo.org 

● CVN Kalari Sangam, East 

Fort, tel: +91 (0)471 247 4182 

FIRST-TIME TRAVELLER 

FOODIES 

Kerala culinary creations often 

include fresh grated coconut, 

coconut milk, unpolished rice, 

tapioca and aromatic coconut 

oil. Ariya Nivaas, a vegetarian 

eatery, is a good place to enjoy 

an authentic Kerala-style lunch 

served on a banana leaf. 

To sample vegetarian and “nonveg” 

specialities, try the lunch 

and dinner buffets at The South 

Park. Enjoy dishes like aviyal (a 

vegetable stew), kaalan (made 

with yoghurt, coconut and raw 

banana) and fi sh fry. Or come 

for breakfast to savour light, 

fl uffy appams (rice pancakes) 

served with a coconut milkbased 

stew, or puttu (rice 

powder and coconut) and 

kadala (chickpea curry). 

The centrally located 

Connemara Market is the ideal 

place to try sweet treats like 

jackfruit, sapota and custard 

apples. There’s even a stall here 

selling 20 banana varieties. 

● Ariya Nivaas, Manorama 

Rd, Thampanoor, tel: +91 

(0)471 233 0789 

● The South Park, Mahatma 

Gandhi Rd, tel: +91 (0)471 233 

3333, www.thesouthpark. 

com 

● Connemara Market, 

Mahatma Gandhi Rd, tel: +91 

(0)471 233 0789 

SHOPAHOLICS 

Understated is the way to go 

in Kerala. The average woman 

tends to wear a white sari 

with borders in gold or other 

solid colours, while the typical 

man dons a white, sarong-like 

mundu with a thin, coloured or 

gold border. A huge selection 

of such traditional garments in 

hand-woven cotton is available 

at swanky Karalkada. 

For a burst of colour, head to 

Ethnic Weaves, which stocks a 

vibrant and eclectic collection 

of saris and printed fabrics. 

Choose from handloom 

Maheshwari saris, handpainted 

Kalamkari prints, 

Chikkenkari embroidery and 

Rajasthani block prints. 

SMSM Institute is the place to 

go for gifts and souvenirs such 

as wood carvings, brass oil 

lamps, bronze statues, stone 

jewellery, handloom textiles 

and reproductions of Raja Ravi 

Varma paintings. 

● Karalkada, CPR Tower, TC 

25/534 (2), Kaithamukku, tel: 

+91 (0)471 247 2932, www. 

karalkada.com 

● Ethnic Weaves, Muttada 

Rd, Paruthipara Junction, tel: 

+91 (0471) 253 4377 

● SMSM Institute, 

Puthenchanthai, tel: +91 

(0)471 233 0298 


13

14 


HOTEL 

REPORT 

Something Old, Something New 

Choose a 110-year-old Hanoi hotel or one that’s just opened its doors, says Christine Retschlag 

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HOTEL DE L’OPÉRA 

Right in the heart of Hanoi, about a 10-minute stroll from 

the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake. 

The hotel consists of two wings: the original and 

historic Metropole Wing – inspired by classic French 

architecture but with some Vietnamese touches – and 

the more contemporary, art deco-infl uenced Opera 

Wing, which opened in 2007. 

Surrounded by Hanoi’s elegant and bustling streets 

on three sides, the hotel also has a selection of rooms 

overlooking the pool and courtyard. 

Circa-1901, old-school Asia at its best, with high 

ceilings, wide staircases and narrow lifts that have 

stood the test of time. In short, just about everything 

you’d expect of Hanoi’s grande dame. Best of all, the 

new wing blends effortlessly with the old. 

Three suites are named after famous visitors, including 

Charlie Chaplin. The Metropole Wing features 106 rooms 

while The Opera Wing is home to 236 rooms, 18 suites 

and the Grand Prestige Suite. Classic touches include 

French doors, wooden shutters and chaise longues. 

The three main dining outlets are famed French 

eatery Le Beaulieu, which is more than 100 years old, 

the Vietnamese Spices Garden and Angelina – Italian 

Restaurant and Lounge. For a more casual ambience, 

try Le Club, the Bamboo Bar or Le Terrace. 

Seemingly inspired by a greenhouse, the glass-walled 

Le Spa du Metropole features seven treatment rooms, 

each decorated according to a different theme. The pool 

is a pleasant centrepiece to the garden courtyard. 

From S$250 (A$188) 

www.sofi tel-legend.com 

A decidedly masculine hotel, it’s custom-made to appeal 

to history buffs. 

THE 

LOCATION 

THE 

ARCHITECTURE 

THE VIEW 

THE VIBE 

THE ROOMS 

THE FOOD 

THE SPA & POOL 

THE DETAILS 

THE VERDICT 

Also right downtown, within easy walking distance of the 

Opera Theatre and the Museum of History. 

As the name suggests, the hotel’s design was inspired 

by a “night at the opera”. It includes all the bells and 

whistles one would associate with an opera house, 

including marble fl oors, waiting-room sofas and 

photo-framed TVs. 

Ideally positioned to provide views of the Hanoi Opera 

House and the city’s frenetic streets. Rooms with internal 

views overlook the hotel’s central courtyard. 

Sleek, sophisticated and seductive. The hotel’s 

designers appear to have been given complete 

creative freedom, the result being a funky, art 

deco-inspired look that is sure to impress theatre 

enthusiasts, in particular. 

Befi tting its boutique status, this eight-storey hotel has 

just 107 rooms. Notable features include stage lights, 

bathrooms resembling professional make-up studios 

and dollhouse-style beds that are so high it’s tempting to 

search for a ladder or ottoman to help you “climb in”. 

Two restaurants and the Café Lautrec bar allow for allday 

feasting on Mediterranean food. Satine with its à 

la carte offerings and 12-course meals is open only for 

dinner. La Fée Verte – the Green Fairy – was named in 

honour of the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. 

Located on the third fl oor, the hotel spa is slated to 

open at the end of the year. The pool on the same level 

allows for both indoor and outdoor swimming and offers 

pleasant views of the street from its sunny terrace. 

From S$162 (A$122) 

www.hoteldeopera.com 

With its pretty pinks and operatic furnishings, it’s 

undeniably feminine.

16 

FOCUS 

ith the effects 

of the natural 

W disasters that 

hit Queensland 

at the start of the year still 

being felt, and the Australian 

government having recently 

announced a carbon price 

system – which the tourism 

industry expects to raise costs 

and reduce profi ts – it’s no 

surprise that many businesses 

are feeling the pinch. 

Research conducted by 

Tourism Australia indicates 

that exchange rates, while 


Only in Australia 

A series of events has conspired to make it a tough year, 

but Oz still offers great value for money, says Kris Madden, 

who lists four fun things that can’t be done anywhere else 

PERTH 

Ever wondered what 

you’re worth in gold? 

Visit the Perth Mint, the 

world’s oldest currency 

mint, and hop on the 

scales to fi nd out. Then 

feast your eyes on a 

25.5kg gold nugget. 

www.perthmint.com.au 

MELBOURNE 

Cricket Willow at 

Shepherds Flat, 90 minutes 

from the city, is the only place in 

the world where visitors can look 

on as a cricket bat is made. 

Have yours personalised. 

www.cricketwillow. 

com.au 

important, are not as strong an 

infl uence on travel behaviour 

as some might believe. 

“Studies show the 

fundamental driver of tourism 

demand for Australia is the 

economic growth of source 

countries, and the income, 

wealth and consumer 

confi dence of their people,” 

Tourism Australia Managing 

Director Andrew McEvoy says. 

Andrew says the latest 

SYDNEY 

Australia’s gorgeous 

beaches need little introduction 

and, at and less than three hour’s 

drive from Sydney, at Jervis Bay you 

can wander barefoot on the whitest 

sand in the world. The Guinness Book 

of Records says so, and best of all it’s 

free and most of the time you’ll 

have it all to yourself. www. 

jervisbaytourism. 

com.au 

arrival fi gures – 5.9 million 

last year – highlight Asia’s 

importance as a key driver of 

Australia’s future international 

tourism growth. 

“The other important 

message is that Australia is 

open for business following the 

fl oods in southern Queensland 

and the cyclone that affected 

parts of the tropical north,” 

he says. “Tourists are again 

enjoying a warm Aussie 

Tourists are again enjoying a warm Aussie welcome and 

visiting Queensland’s stunning beaches, reefs and rainforests 

SYDNEY 

If you’re feeling like 

solitude, in the Blue 

Mountains you can rent 

your own cave. Here you’ll 

also fi nd the world’s rarest 

tree, the Wollemi Pine, 

thought to be extinct 

until one 90 millionyear-old 

specimen was 

discovered in 1994. www. 

hattershideout.com.au 

welcome and are experiencing 

the stunning beaches, reefs 

and rainforests of Queensland 

as part of their holiday here.” 

The fact is that Australia, 

with its carefree lifestyle, 

cosmopolitan cities, 

exceptional food and wine, 

extraordinary natural 

environment, ancient cultures, 

world-class sporting events 

and stable political climate, 

still represents excellent value 

for money, so anytime is a 

good time to visit. There really 

is nothing quite like it. 

ILLUSTRATION MARLON ESPINO

FISH FEEDING ACCESS ALL AREAS

18 

Tawanna Square, 

Ladprao 124, 

Ladprao Rd This car 

park is home to “bike 

gang” Far Fast and 

is the place to be on 

Mon, Wed and Thu. 

Rama V Monument, 

Royal Plaza, Uthong Nai 

Popular with riders 

(especially after dark), 

Rama V Monument is a 

picturesque area within 

easy reach of Dusit Palace 

and other top spots in the 

Bangkok’s “royal city”. 


On O yer bike -Bangkok 

n a muggy night 

in a Bangkok car 

O park – a short hop 

from rows of food 

vendors on a traffi c-clogged 

street – showboating cyclists 

try to outdo one another on 

what appear to be oversized 

kids’ bikes. The bikes’ brightly 

coloured frames and wheels 

compete for attention with the 

riders’ snazzy outfi ts. This is no 

ordinary biker gathering. 

By day, Tawanna Square 

on Ladprao 124 looks like 

any other car park, but every 

Monday, Wednesday and 

Thursday after dark, it’s t’s home 

Bangkok Metropolitan politan 

Administration, City ty Hall 

Square, Dinso Rd, Sao 

Ching Cha, Phra Nakorn 

Riders tend to congregate gregate 

in this popular cycling 

spot every Saturday. turday. 

ON THE UP 

When Thai actor Jay ‘Montonn’ Jira brought a fi xed-gear bike back from the US in 2005, he helped spark a 

movement that has seen Bangkok become a hub for South-East Asian ‘fi xie’ fans, says Matt Crook 

TOP FIXIE 

HANGOUTS 

to Far Fast – a collective of 

riders who have embraced the 

latest craze to grip Bangkok: 

fi xed-gear bikes, or “fi xies”. 

Keen to avoid the city’s chaotic 

streets, freewheeling fanatics 

congregate in car parks, squares 

and other public spaces after 

work and on weekends. 

Fixed-gear bikes differ from 

regular bikes in one major way: 

they don’t coast, which means 

if the pedals aren’t in motion, 

the rider isn’t going anywhere. 

Whichever way the pedals are 

turned – including backwards 

– the rear wheel 

turns with them. 

Teenagers have embraced 

the use of fi xies in rad colours 

and with wacky wheels as a way 

of standing out from the crowd, 

Thrillseekers use the stop-start 

pedals to perform skids and 

stunts – from bunny hops to 

track stands (balancing the bike 

while barely moving). 

The fi rst thing that tends to 

attract young people to fi xies is 

“fi xie fashion” and the unique 

look of the bikes. Fixies aren’t 

suited to long roads or dirt 

tracks, but they’re great for 

short distances and ideal for 

life in the city, says Thammawat 

“Donge” Arthachinta, a project 

Sealee Fixed Gear 

Café, 33/306 

Chokchai 4, Lat Ph Phrao 53, Ladprao 

Rd, tel: +66 (0)83 808 9061, www. 

sealeefi xed.com OOriginally 

a drink and 

noodle noodle seller, it’s now n a fi xie haven 

where you can also buy yoghurt and 

smoothies. 

Velayenn V l at t Sugarlust, S l t 59/27 

Sukhumvit 26, Klongtoey, tel: +66 

(0)80 900 2610 This café/bistro is a 

decent place for a natter. 

manager at a fi lm studio and a 

self-confessed fi xie convert. 

“I ride my bike nearly every 

day near my offi ce and on 

weekends with friends. I’ve 

been riding bikes all my life, 

from BMX and mountain bikes 

to road bikes. One day a friend 

showed me this clean-looking 

fi xed-gear bike. I really liked it. 

It has fewer components and 

is fully customisable.” 

Fixed-gear fashion is 

among the hottest trends 

with Bangkok’s hipsters, 

who have helped build a 

growing subculture subc around 

fi xie riding. 

Ped Pedalicious Bike & Bistro, 

Suk Sukhumvit 63, Soi 12, tel: 

+66 

(0)2 713 3377 The 

artis artist-owner goes all out 

to eentertain 

fi xie fans with 

a da dazzling array of biker 

pain paintings and photos. 

Crazy Cycle Bangkok, 204 

Lat Phrao Ph 71, Ladprao Rd, 

tel: +66 +6 (0)2 907 8403 

An importer imp and seller of 

fi xies and a parts, owner 

Tam is also a great source 

of information info on all things 

fi xed gear. g 

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES

20 

appetite the buzz 

ON THE MENU 


Uncommon Ground 

On a mission to gauge the current state of Aussie caffeine culture, Kerry Heaney 

discovers that the traditional cup o’ joe is becoming a lot more complicated 

here’s a new speciality 

coffee movement under 

T way that has baristas 

brewing up a storm and 

bean counters frothing at the mouth. 

What’s more, people now talk about 

coffee like they do wine, assessing its 

quality, appreciating its fi ner points and 

seeking improvements at every stage of 

production – from coffee bean growing 

and harvesting to processing. 

Other hallmarks of the trend include 

TOP SPOTS FOR 

JAVA AROUND 

AUSTRALIA 

stronger relationships among growers, 

traders and roasters, the use of better 

quality ingredients and high technology in 

the roasting process – aka micro roasting 

(after the microbrewing of beer) – and topdrawer 

skills on the part of baristas. 

So what does this mean as far as your 

local coffee shop is concerned? Well, you 

might hear baristas talking about where 

the shop’s coffee comes from and touting 

alternative brewing methods. Also, they 

might take special pride in the shop’s coffee 

SYDNEY: 

● Coffee Alchemy, 24 

Addison Rd, Marrickville, 

www.coffeealchemy.com.au 

● The Source, 914 Military 

Rd, Mosman, www. 

thesourceespresso.com 

● Mecca Espresso, 67 King 

St, www.meccaespresso.com 

Peter Wolffe makes 

syphon coffee, 

Dandelion and 

Driftwood, Brisbane 

Coffea Coffee, 

Queen Victoria 

Market, Melbourne 

machine, which probably bears a name like 

Synesso or La Marzocco and costs a bundle. 

Penny Wolffe, whose coffee shop 

Dandelion & Driftwood in the Brisbane 

suburb of Hendra was recently cited as 

the home of the city’s best coffee, says 

consumers are growing more inquisitive. 

MELBOURNE: 

● Seven Seeds, 114 Berkeley 

St, Carlton, www.sevenseeds. 

com.au 

● Proud Mary, 172 Oxford 

St, Collingwood, tel: +61 (0)3 

9417 5930 

● Auction Rooms, 103-107 Errol 

St, North Melbourne, www. 

auctionroomscafe.com.au

Padre Coffee, 

South Melboure 

Market, Melbourne 

“THE SKILL OF THE BARISTA 

IS BEING RECOGNISED AND 

THERE’S MORE UNDERSTANDING 

OF BREWING METHODS” 

“We’ve noticed increased interest from 

the coffee consumer in what is being served 

in their cup of coffee – where the beans 

are from, what varietal they are, what are 

the tasting notes and what milk is used,” 

Penny says. “The skill of the barista is being 

recognised and there’s more understanding 

of multiple brewing methods, not just a 

focus on espresso brew.” 

For coffee enthusiasts looking to boost 

their street cred when it comes to the new 

coffee culture, here’s a primer: 

ADELAIDE: 

● Fiefy’s Specialty Coffee, 

45 Pirie St, www.fi efys. 

com.au 

● The Coffee Barun, 217- 

219 Main North Rd, Sefton 

Park, www.thecoffeebarun. 

com.au 

● Bar 9, Glen Osmond Rd, 

Parkside, www.bar9.com.au 

SINGLE ORIGIN – coffee from one 

location, either a country or a single estate. 

A blended coffee is typically made with 

coffee beans from different countries 

AEROPRESS – coffee-making method 

involving the use of what amounts to an 

espresso-producing syringe with plunger 

SYPHON – method where a glass pipet 

is used to ensure that the coffee and water 

meet at the optimal temperature 

COLD DRIP – method where the coffeewater 

mix stands for hours before fi ltering 

BRISBANE: 

● Campos Coffee, 11 

Wandoo St, Fortitude Valley, 

www.camposcoffee.com 

● Dandelion & Driftwood, 

45 Gerler Rd, Hendra, www. 

dandeliondriftwood.com 

● One Drop Specialty 

Coffee, 515 St Pauls Terrace, 

Fortitude Valley, www. 

onedropspecialtycoffee.com 


Need help refi ning your coffee palate? 

Drink Your Words is a coffee-tasting 

journal designed to help caffeine junkies 

increase their java knowledge and 

appreciation. Users can keep a record 

of their consumption – from where and 

when to the type of bean, roast and 

brewing or extracting process. Find it at 

www.drinkyourwords.com 

PERTH: 

● Elixir Coffee Specialists, 145 

Stirling Hwy, Nedlands, www. 

elixircoffeespecialists.com 

● Ristretto Espresso, 160 St 

Georges Tce, www.ristretto. 

com.au 

● Epic Espresso, 1297 Hay St (at 

Outram St), www.epicespresso. 

com.au 

Enjoying a 

coffee at 

Prahran Market, 

Melbourne 

Discover more coffee worth searching 

out at www.beanhunter.com 


21

HONG KONG 

Hutong’s new menu features 

28 new dishes custom-designed to 

tantalise foodies. Try the Sichuanstyle 

smoked duck with tea leaves, 

created more than 200 years 

ago at the request of an 

empress who was so 

bored with palace 

life that she ordered 

the imperial chefs to 

surprise her. 

www.hutong.com.hk 

SYDNEY 

Holt Street, between 

Devonshire and Cooper Streets 

in Surry Hills, is emerging as 

a restaurant district. Muum 

Maam, Thai for “little glutton”, 

dishes out Thai-style street 

food, Cotton Duck boasts 

a Mediterranean-inspired 

seasonal menu, Koko Espresso 

has sumptuous breakfasts and 

121BC Cantina & Enoteca is the 

last word in Italian wines. 

Food 

news 

The Dish 

What’s happening at restaurants and 

bars across the region? 

PERTH 

Pan Pacifi c Perth has 

introduced a contemporary 

high tea, served every Sunday 

afternoon amid the elegant 

surrounds of its signature 

restaurant, Origins. It’s a 

culinary journey with innovative 

sweet and savoury delights 

served on a traditional three 

tiered stand including some 

elements of the Origins winter 

menu. www.panpacifi c.com 

HANOI 

Set in a nearly century-old 

French house away from the 

hustle and bustle of the capital, 

Green Tangerine specialises in 

dishes combining the French 

and Vietnamese culinary 

traditions. The menu includes 

a mouth-watering selection of 

modern French dishes, each with 

a creative twist. 48 Hang Be St, 

Hoan Kiem District, tel: +84 (0)4 

3825 1286 

MELBOURNE 

Mahjong Black is the hot 

Little Collins Street CBD Chinese 

restaurant offering contemporary 

Cantonese cuisine using produce 

sourced from the 

Footscray markets. 

All entrees are 

reasonably priced 

and portion sizes 

generous. www. 

mahjongblack. 

com.au 

SINGAPORE 

Dozens of restaurants 

and bars have opened along 

the Marina Bay waterfront 

promenade. Bazin, by the Event 

Plaza, sprawls across two 

levels and is home to a casual 

bar and dining room and an 

alfresco area for guests looking 

to enjoy unobstructed views of 

Singapore’s fi nancial district. 

tel: +65 6688 7375 

And if they 

had a ‘Most 

Spectacular 

Sunset’ 

category, 

we definitely 

would have 

won that too. 

Sitting over the water at 

Hillarys Boat Harbour 

in Perth, The Breakwater 

serves great food and 

drinks against a backdrop of 

stunning Indian Ocean views. 

08 99448 

448 5000 | TH T EBRE EBREAKWA AKWATER. TER.COM. COM.AU AU

Philippine Philipp Eagle 

Malipano Villas, 

DAVAO 

CEBU 

Pearl Farm Resort 

White Beach, 

Mactan Island 

From islands 

to highlands 

Your heritage and 

resort destination 

www.tourism.gov.ph 

Mount Apo 

Heritage 

of cebu Monument 

Sinulog Festival

AT A GLANCE 

Table for 31... 

days, that is 

Throughout October, Malaysia’s top 

eateries turn on the charm with a fi ne 

dining festival that draws foodies from 

across the globe. Here’s what to expect 

ow in its 11th year, 

The Malaysia 

N International 

Gourmet Festival 

(MIGF) – which runs this year 

for the entire month of October 

– features 30 of the nation’s 

best restaurants. 

Last year, diners in Kuala 

Lumpur enjoyed dishes ranging 

from smoked jade tiger abalone 

salad and slow-roasted rabbit 

tortellini to milk-fed baby 

limousine lamb and tuna 

carpaccio with truffl es. 

Participating chefs are 

tight-lipped about this year’s 

line-up, which will be unveiled 

at the festival launch on 29 

September, but it has been 

suggested that punters can 

expect both familiar offerings 

and the dishes of their dreams. 

“The boost that MIGF has 

given the entire multi billiondollar 

F&B industry in Malaysia 

continues to pay dividends as 

our best restaurants engage in 

a friendly but serious festival 

competition and raise the bar 

each year,” MIGF Organising 

Chairman Steve Day says. “As 

a result, we can now offer a 

level of service and a range 

of international cuisines 

unimaginable 10 years ago.” 

For the length of the festival, 

Malaysia’s leading restaurants 

will serve custom-made dishes 

at low prices. Deals will also be 

available on everything from 

cigars and wine to hotel and 

breakfast packages. Of course, 

the real fun is in sampling the 

fruits of the master chefs’ 

efforts to top one another in the 

kitchen. 

Malaysia’s culinary melting 

pot inspires many chefs to 

nurture traditions even as they 

strike out in new directions, KL 

Mandarin Oriental executive 

chef Marcel Kofl er says. 

“The thrilling thing about the 

culinary scene here is the ‘sky’s 

the limit’ approach of local 

chefs”, who see themselves 

as part of a fun- driven, foodloving 

community where events 

such as MIGF offer ready-made 

challenges,” he says. 

“We have seen great 

progress in recent years on 

new and modern restaurant 

concepts, where not just 

great food is served but also 

entertainment and great 

personalised service is offered. 

“Many wonderful characters 

and personalities have 

emerged from the so-called 

kitchen dungeons.” 


While the set menu format 

makes it easy for fi rst-time 

festival goers to try new dishes, 

even those well-acquainted 

with local cuisine have much 

to anticipate. “Exposure to 

so many cultures gives the 

Malaysian food scene a unique 

angle,” KL’s Neo Tamarind 

restaurant owner Federico 

Asaro says. “In the past few 

years, we have seen a move 

towards elevating local street 

cuisine to the fi ne-dining level.” 

Fellow festival participant 

Anthony Edington, executive 

chef at Hotel Equatorial in KL, 

agrees. “There’s a lot more 

foreign infl uence in terms 

of cooking techniques and, 

consequently, Malay fusion is 

coming soon to a restaurant 

near you. It shows a craving for 

setting trends and new culinary 

boundaries,” he says. 

Malaysia International Gourmet 

Festival, www.migf.com 


25

26 


frequent winner 

at international 

A cooking contests, 

26-year-old Hong 

Kong native Vicky Cheng 

has spent more time abroad 

than on his home turf. But he 

recently came back to practise 

his skills at Liberty Private 

Works (LPW) and Liberty 

Exchange Kitchen (LEX). 

Cheng trained under some 

of the world’s best chefs, from 

Jason Bangerter of Toronto’s 

Auberge du Pommier, to 

Anthony Walsh of Canoe, also 

in Toronto, to Daniel Boulud 

of New York’s Daniel – owner 

of three Michelin Stars and 

last year’s James Beard Best 

Restaurant of the Year. 

And while he has won 

plenty of accolades of his 

own, he doesn’t take it all too 

seriously, but he does keep a 

running tally of the “best meal 

of my life” raves that he has 

received from LPW customers. 

The count now stands at 17. 

The dishes that mum and 

grandma made will always be 

the standard to which Cheng 

aspires. Still, diners with any 

doubts that such a young chef 

could have accomplished so 

much in so little time need 

only sample his contributions 

to the menus of two top Hong 

Kong eateries. 


CHEFS: ON THE GRILL 

Hats off to 

Homecoming 

Born in Hong Kong but educated – and acclaimed 

– overseas, Vicky Cheng has returned home to 

take the helm at two top dining spots 

Q: WHAT DEFINES YOUR 

COOKING STYLE? 

I have a classic French 

restaurant background 

and my techniques are 

traditional. But because of 

my age and my playful mind 

I like to experiment and use 

a lot of Asian ingredients. 

Q: HOW DOES IT FEEL 

TO BE ONE OF HONG 

KONG’S YOUNGEST 

EXECUTIVE CHEFS? 

Challenging but 

exciting. I’ve been the 

youngest at a lot of things 

I’ve done – competitions, 

restaurant cook, apprentice 

and winning awards. I 

wanted to do the same as 

an executive chef. 

Q: WHAT WAS YOUR 

FIRST DAY AS A 16-YEAR- 

OLD APPRENTICE LIKE? 

Frightening because I 

didn’t know anything about 

cooking and I knew I was 

in a kitchen full of very 

talented cooks. But my 

mentor Jason Bangerter took 

me in as his fi rst apprentice and 

taught me everything I know. 

Q: WHAT DID YOU MISS 

MOST ABOUT ASIA WHILE 

WORKING IN NEW YORK? 

I missed Asian food but I 

actually missed Toronto the 

most because my mum and 

sister were there. Without my 

mother’s support I would not be 

where I am today. She decided 

to support me even though she 

knew this was a hard industry. 

FIND IT: 

Q: WHICH CUISINES WOULD 

YOU LIKE TO EXPLORE? 

Asian. It’s the main reason I 

came back to Hong Kong – to 

be surrounded by the food, the 

ingredients and the culture. 

Q: FOOD-WISE, CAN HONG 

KONG MATCH NEW YORK? 

New York’s fi ne dining scene 

is, of course, miles ahead. But 

when it comes to local food, 

Hong Kong has the advantage. I 

love street food and seafood at 

Lama Island and Dai Pai Dong. 

● The Chef’s Counter at Liberty Private Works, which was 

the regional Academy Chairman’s Choice for the 2011 

S Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, is open to 

16 guests each night. 3/F, 12 Wellington St, Central, Hong 

Kong, tel: +852 5186 3282, www.libertypw.com 

● Liberty Exchange Kitchen & Bar is a hybrid bistro, 

restaurant and bar. It serves up simple, satisfying, honest 

dishes, with a focus on American-style comfort food like 

fi sh and chips, burgers and waffl es. 2 Exchange Square, 

8 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong, tel: +852 2810 

8400, www.lex.hk

Taipei 

tiger tales sep-oct

Friday: Monomono 

Saturday: Villa 32 

WEEKENDER 

Sunday: Chiang Kaishek 

Memorial Hall 

With its Japanese-style architecture, fantastic food and lively cultural scene, 

Taipei inspires repeat visits by tourists who’ve discovered its one-of-a-kind charm. 

Scarlet Ma goes on a tour of one of Asia’s most under-appreciated destinations 


29

30 

FIVE BEST PRODUCTS TO TAKE HOME: 

CHIA TE BAKERY PINEAPPLE 

1 

CAKES 

Taiwan is well-known for its pineapple 

cakes and Chia Te is tops when it 

comes to this particular delicacy. An 

award-winning bakery, it also sells 

innovative variations, such as cakes 

with cranberries or salty egg yolks. 88 

Nanjing E Rd, Sec 5, tel: +886 (0)2 8787 

8186, www.chiate88.com 

LAUTIANLU BRAISED FOOD 

2 

The sauce here, which can only 

be described as magical, is made from 

a secret recipe. Look for braised duck 

wings, braised tongues, braised hearts, 

braised livers, braised kidneys… you get 

the idea. Meat is soaked in the sauce for 

days so the fl avour seeps deep inside. 

The taste seems to evolve as you chew. 

55 Wuchang St, Sec 2, tel: +886 (0)2 

2361 5588, www.lautianlu.com.tw 

GEOW YONG TEA HONG 

3 

Founded in 1842, this teashop 

stalwart has been making and selling 

tea leaves for six generations. The 

process of producing tieguanyin, an 

oolong variety, is long and involved. It’s 

heated and dried over a gentle charcoal 

fi re three times to maintain the full 


fl oral fragrance of the leaves. The tea 

has a mellow taste and a sweet fi nish. 

14 Changchun Rd, tel: +886 (0)2 2567 

0555, www.geowyongtea.com.tw 

ROYAL BAKERY MACADAMIA 

4 

NOUGATS 

The bakery at Hotel Royal Taipei makes 

addictive nougats. The nutty bite of the 

macadamia nuts perfectly complements 

the nougat’s creamy texture. 37 

Zongshan N Rd, Sec 2, tel: +886 (0)2 

2542 3299, www.royal-taipei.com.tw 

KAVALAN SINGLE MALT 

5 

WHISKEY 

Yes, Taiwan is home to a world-class 

whiskey distillery. Last year, in an 

international blind taste test of threeyear-old 

whiskies, Kavalan topped 

the table against some of the most 

celebrated Scotch whiskies. The 

reason? The temperature in Taiwan is 

much higher than that in most other 

whiskey-producing countries, which 

makes for faster maturation. Thus, 

a two-year-old Taiwanese whiskey 

arguably tastes as good as a six-yearold 

Scottish one. 230 Roosevelt Rd, 

Sec 3, tel: +886 (0)2 2365 6551, www. 

kavalanwhisky.com 

Taipei 101

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL SHIH 

FRIDAY 

6PM For a city in love with its architecture, 

there’s no better place to start your 

visit than at the landmark Taipei 101 

tower, which was once the world’s tallest 

skyscraper. Ascend to the indoor and 

outdoor observatories on the 89th and 

91st fl oors, respectively, for a bird’s-eye 

view of Taipei. The audio guide included 

with the entry fee of S$17/A$13 offers 

a detailed overview of Taipei and local 

culture. Visit before sunset to marvel at the 

city skyline by day and by night. 

8PM Now that you’ve found your bearings, 

it’s time to try Taipei’s favourite dish – hot 

pot. The Taiwanese can’t get enough of 

this stew-like creation – where diners 

prepare their own meats and vegetables 

in a pot of boiling, fl avoured soup. Enjoy 

the best “mala” hot pot – it’s named after 

the spicy sauce that is a key ingredient – 

at Tripodking Spicy Hotpot, northwest 

of Taipei 101. If you’re feeling especially 

daring, try it with duck blood jelly and pig’s 

intestine. It’s heavenly. 

9.30PM The Taiwanese also like to party 

so head for the Shida University area, near 

the Taipower Building MRT Station, and 

MY PERFECT FRIDAY 

My perfect Friday 

morning starts 

with a bike ride 

to Yangmingshan 

National Park. I 

set off at around 

5.30am, when 

the streets are typically calm and 

quiet. Before long, I am immersed in 

nature. The trails are often still wet 

from the previous night’s rain. The 

sun shines through layers of tree 

leaves and branches, and there’s a 

golden carpet on the ground. I take 

a deep breath, soaking in the crisp, 

fragrant morning air. The trail winds 

into a corner and leads up a hill 

that offers views of the entire city. 

The trail then cuts to a steep uphill 

stretch with a 13% grade. Finally, 

I reach the top and my eyes take 

in a vast, peaceful expanse. I am 

reminded that life is like climbing a 

hill. You can always expect a good 

view after a hard climb. 

Jason Hsu, curator of TEDx Taipei 

(http://blog.tedxtaipei.com) 

Eslite 

enjoy homegrown indie music at The Wall 

Live House. Enter through the small, dark 

entrance and descend to the basement, 

where you’ll fi nd an underground haven 

complete with stage, bar, art gallery, tattoo 

parlour, music studio and store. Local 

indie bands play here from Wednesdays to 

Sundays. Tickets typically start at S$13/ 

A$10, depending on the band. 

11PM As the Shida Nightmarket is just 

across from The Wall, feast on some local 

delights after the gig. It’s not as big as 

Taipei’s popular Shilin Night Market but 

it’s less touristy, and locals value it for its 

diversity. Besides stalls selling traditional 

Taiwanese snacks made the old-fashioned 

way, the market is also home to cheap and 

trendy clothing and accessories. When it 

comes to the food, the general rule is to go 

with the crowd. Some sellers only speak 

Taiwanese, but you can always just point to 

WEEKENDER 

what you want. There are also lots of cool 

cafés and bars that stay open until late 

scattered along the side alleys. 

MIDNIGHT Another good spot for 

Taipei 101 

Monomono 

people-watching is bookstore chain 

Eslite’s Dunnan store, just a fi ve-minute 

walk south of Zhongxiao Dunhua MRT 

Station. Even at midnight you’ll see 

people sitting on the steps or on the fl oor, 

absorbed in books. Eslite is Taiwan’s 

biggest bookstore chain. 

1AM For a night cap, head over to one 

of the many bars tucked away in alleys 

along Anhe Road. One gem is the wellhidden 

Monomono. Two small, discreetly 

lit signs are the only clues to its existence in 

a nondescript residential building. If you’re 

unsure of what to order, ask one of the 

bartenders to mix you up one of their latest 

creations. You won’t be disappointed. 


31

32 

SATURDAY 

8AM Breakfast is big in Taiwan. So big that 

there are even popular songs dedicated 

to it. Breakfast shops can be found on just 

about every corner, serving everything 

from sandwiches and eggs to turnip cakes, 

fried dough sticks and soybean milk. Once 

fortifi ed, take the one-hour bus ride north 

to Jinshan, admiring the spectacular 

mountain views on the way. 

10.30AM Juming Museum in Jinshan is 

one of the leading facilities of its kind in 

Taiwan. Originally intended as a storage 

space for the larger works of Taiwanese 

sculptor Ju Ming, over a period of 12 years 

it was transformed by the artist into a 

10,000m2 outdoor museum. The museum 

is Ju’s biggest and most impressive work. 

1PM Take a bus back to Danshui, where the 

Danshui River meets the Taiwan Strait. It 

has been occupied at one time or another 

by the Spanish, Dutch, English, Japanese 

and Chinese. Grab a snack to munch on 

while strolling along Danshui Old Street. 

Shihsanheng Museum 

of Archaeology 

MY PERFECT SATURDAY 

After another Friday night out, I sleep in before riding my bike 

over to the far west side of the city for some traditional Taiwanese 

noodles at Maimian Yanzai (which literally means, The Noodle 

Vendor Yan). This third-generation family business is one of the 

city’s oldest noodle shops and walking in is like being transported 

back to pre-World War II Taipei. After lunch, I stroll around the 

neighbourhood where the noodle shop is located. It’s the oldest 

part of the city and has remained largely untouched by the rapid modernisation 

going on nearly everywhere else in Taipei. In the late afternoon, I head for Huashan 

Creative Park to take in whatever art show they have on, browse some design shops 

and have dinner at Trio (incidentally, its main bar/restaurant off Anhe serves some 

of the best cocktails in all of Taipei). I’ll cap off the day by having drinks with friends 

at Mod Public Bar, one of my favourite spots. 

Liao Yusheng, photographer (http://fi gure-ground.com) 


Danshui 

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL SHIH

Villa 32 

Fort San Domingo 

Danshui 

2PM Take a ferry to Bali, a district west 

of Danshui, with a hired bike and pedal 

over to the Shihsanheng Museum of 

Archaeology. Its architecture symbolises 

the journey of early travellers from 

Mainland China to Taiwan. The museum 

displays artefacts from the Shihsanhang 

archeological site, which dates from the 

Iron Age. Kids will love the many interactive 

educational games and exhibits here. 

3.30PM After travelling back to Danshui 

by boat, bike up the hill to the Tamsui 

Customs Offi cer’s Residence, aka the 

“Little White House”. This is a popular 

spot for photo-taking. Head farther along 

to Fort San Domingo, the site of a Spanish 

fort built in 1642. It was later destroyed 

but rebuilt by the Dutch. The British later 

painted it red. About fi ve minutes away 

is Huwei Fort, which was built for practical 

military use with thick walls and massive 

gates. The ramparts are now home to a 

garden that’s open to the public. 

7PM Every Saturday, admission to the 

National Palace Museum is free. The 

museum boasts the world’s largest 

collection of Oriental art, including 

paintings, calligraphy, statues, ceramics 

and jade. Some pieces date back millennia 

while others are from prehistoric times. 

9PM Wrap up the day by treating yourself 

to a soak at a hot spring in Beitou, north of 

the city centre. Finding one you like is part 

of the fun. Browse online or just hop from 

one hot spring resort to another, staying 

the night at the one that tickles your 

fancy. If you’re in the mood to splurge, Villa 

32 is highly recommended for its private, 

Zen garden-like setting. As there are only 

fi ve villas, each guest is treated like a VIP. 

WEEKENDER 

FIVE BEST CHEAP EATS: 

LINDONGFANG NOODLES 

1 

A trip to Taipei is not complete 

without a meal at one of the 

countless beef noodle shops found 

here. Lindongfang is a perennial 

favourite. Open late, this hole-inthe-wall 

eatery is always packed 

with beef noodle enthusiasts. The 

beef is extra tender. And don’t 

forget to add a dollop of its famous 

spicy paste made with beef lard. 

274 Bade Rd (Near Fuxing N Rd), 

tel: +886 (0)2 2752 2556 

CHEN’S COLD NOODLES 

2 

For a representative Taiwanese 

meal, look no further than cold 

noodles with sesame sauce. The 

noodles here are fan-cooled rather 

than rinsed with cold water, which 

gives them a chewier texture. But it’s 

the delicious sauce that keeps people 

coming back. Ln 123, Nanjing E Rd, 

Sec 5, tel: +886 (0)2 2766 0171 

STINKY TOFU 

3 

Like many night-market street 

stands, this place has no name, 

no phone number and no seating 

beyond outdoor tables and stools. 

But the owner knows how to fry tofu 

just right, so the skin is crisp and 

the inside deliciously tender. The 

sourness of the pickled cabbage 

married with the spiciness of the 

chili sauce brings out the distinctive 

“stinky” taste. Ln 181, Zongxiao E 

Rd, Sec 4 

CHANGJI STREET PIG’S 

4 

BLOOD SOUP 

This place is widely known in 

Taipei. The rich, satay-fl avoured 

soup is fi lled with smooth but fi rm 

pig’s blood jelly topped with fi nely 

chopped herbs. Arrive early as the 

soup usually sells out before 7pm. 46 

Changji St, tel: +886 (0)2 2596 1640 

50 LAN 

5 

Pretty much everyone knows 

that bubble milk tea is from Taiwan. 

But where to fi nd the best one? 

Try the biggest drinks store chain, 

50 Lan. Outlets are just about 

everywhere and they’re so popular 

that the boba (tapioca pearls) are 

always fresh, with the perfect softyet-chewy 

texture. The boba come 

in two sizes and you can adjust the 

drink’s sweetness and the amount 

of ice used. Try the small boba with 

75% ice and a liberal dose of sugar 

syrup. http://50lan.com.tw 


33

34 

SUNDAY 

8AM Join the crowd of worshippers 

at Lungshan Temple, near Longshan MRT 

Station, as they do their early-morning 

chanting. Lungshan Temple is among 

the most lively and important of the 250 

registered temples in Taipei. There’s such 

a charming air of solemnity to the place 

that even non-religious visitors may feel 

infused with spirituality. Calm yourself in 

front of the waterfall within the courtyard 

and then burn some incense. The Wanhua 

area, where the temple is located, was 

home to the city’s fi rst settlers. Stroll east 

through alleyways lined with old shops and 

buildings to get a sense of how the old town 

centre once looked. 

10AM Take a 15-to-20 minute stroll 

east from Longshan Temple to visit the 

24,000m2 Chiang Kai-shek Memorial 

Hall square. The hall was named after 

The Republic of China’s fi rst and most 

infl uential president. He led the nationalist 

Kuomintang Party through the Second 

Sino-Japanese War (1937-45), the Chinese 

Civil War (1927-49) and the retreat to 

Taiwan after their defeat at the hands of 

Mao Tse-tung and the communists. Once 

in Taiwan, he promptly imposed martial 

law and ruled the island until his death in 

1975. The museum dedicated to Chiang 

on the ground fl oor tells an interesting 

MY PERFECT SUNDAY 

On Sundays, I go 

to church with 

my family in the 

morning and then 

go with them to The 

Diner for my weekly 

dose of good, 

American-style brunch favourites. 

Then we walk to the Jianguo Jade 

Market because my mum is very 

interested in precious stones. We 

walk around and mingle. In the 

afternoon, I go to Escape Artist to 

paint and spend time with friends. I’ll 

have a glass of wine or tea depending 

on my mood. At dinner time, I’ll take 

my grandfather to his favourite 

Italian restaurant Bellini Pasta 

Pasta. Afterwards I go to Brown 

Sugar’s weekly salsa group class. It 

has a good blend of people. If it isn’t 

too late, I’ll probably get a massage. 

Lesley Hu, actress 


version of modern Chinese history, one 

in which the Chinese Communist Party 

played a negligible role in the wars. At the 

top of the 89 steps symbolising Chiang’s 

89-year life is a towering 10m statue of the 

generalissimo. He is watched over by the 

motionless members of an honour guard, 

which changes every hour. 

NOON This populus loves to eat so treat 

yourself to a meal at the original Din Tai 

Fung outlet on Yungkang Street. The 

most celebrated of Taiwan’s restaurant 

chains – with locations around the world 

– Din Tai Fung specialises in xiaolongbao 

or steamed pork buns. The chain is known 

internationally and ranks as one of the 

world’s top 10 restaurants according to The 

New York Times. The fried rice with pork is 

top-notch, too. No reservations are taken 

so be prepared for long queues. 

Chiang Kai-shek 

Memorial Hall 

Longshan Temple 


Jianguo Jade 

Market 

2PM After lunch, head to Guang Hua 

Digital Plaza, a fi ve-minute walk from 

Zhongxiao Xinsheng MRT Station, if 

you’re in the market for a new electronic 

gadget – or just want to see what’s out 

there. As Taiwan is one of the world’s 

tech hubs, this seven-storey mall is 

home to hundreds of stores that sell lowpriced 

but high-quality, made-in-Taiwan 

products. Computers, monitors, music 

players, phones, video games, sound 

systems… you name it, it’s here. 

4PM Time for tea? Nothing could be more 

fi tting than concluding your visit to Taipei 

with a cup of Chinese tea at a traditional 

teahouse in the Maokong hills overlooking 

the city. Once home to the capital’s 

largest tea plantations, the southern 

hills are the city’s best-known bastion of 

tea culture. Take the Maokong Gondola 

(cable car system), turn left out of 

Maokong station and stroll along a street 

lined with teahouses of many different 

designs. Buy tea leaves, pay the “water 

fee”, learn the traditional way to make 

your own cup of tea and then just savour 

the taste. Most teashops serve traditional 

Taiwanese meals. 

Tiger Airways offers frequent fl ights 

to Taipei from Singapore. Book your 

fl ights at www.tigerairways.com

36 

WEEKENDER 

Dihua Street 

CONTACT BOOK 

FRIDAY 

Taipei 101, 45 Shifu Rd, tel: +886 

(0)2 8101 8899, www.taipei-101.com 

Tripodking Spicy Hotpot, 89 

Guangfu North Rd, tel: +886 (0)2 2742 

1166, www.tripodking.com.tw 

The Wall Live House, 200 Roosevelt 

Rd, Sec 4, tel: +886 (0)2 2930 0162 

Eslite Dunnan Store, 245 Dunhua 

S Rd, Sec 1, tel: +886 (0)2 2775 5977, 

www.eslite.com 

Monomono, 17 Alley 29, Lane 127, 

Anhe Rd, tel: +886 (0)2 2754 0868 

SATURDAY 

Juming Museum, 2 Xishihu, Jinshan, 

tel: +886 (0)2 2498 9940, www. 

juming.org.tw 

Shihsanheng Museum of 

Archaeology, 200 Museum Rd, Bali, tel: 

+886 (0)2 2619 1313, www.sshm.tpc. 

gov.tw 

Tamsui Customs Offi cer’s 

Residence, 15 Zhenli St, Danshui, tel: 

+886 (0)2 2628 2865 

Fort San Domingo, 1 Lane 28, 

Zhongzheng Rd, Danshui, tel: +886 

(0)2 2623 1001 

Huwei Fort, 34 Lane 6, Zhongzheng 

Rd, Danshui, tel: +886 (0)2 2629 5390 

National Palace Museum, 221 

Chihshan Rd, Sec 2, tel: +886 (0)2 

2881 2021, www.npm.gov.tw 

Villa 32, 32 Zhongshan Rd, Beitou, 

tel: +886 (0)2 6611 8888, www.villa32. 

com 

SUNDAY 

Lungshan Temple, 211 Guangzhou 


St, tel: +886 (0)2 2302 5162, www. 

lungshan.org.tw 

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, tel: 

+886 (0)2 2343 1100, www.ckcmh. 

gov.tw 

Din Tai Fung, 194 Xinyi Rd, tel: +886 

(0)2 8772 05278, www.dintaifung. 

com.tw 

Guang Hua Digital Plaza, 8 Civic 

Blvd, Sec 3, tel: +886 (0)2 2341 2202 

Maokong Gondola, tel: +886 (0)2 

2181 2345, http://gondola.trtc.com.tw 

JASON HSU’S FRIDAY 

Yangmingshan National Park, tel: 

+886 (0)2 2861 3601, www.ymsnp. 

gov.tw 

LIAO YUSHENG’S SATURDAY 

Huashan Creative Park, 1 Bade Rd, 

Sec 1, tel: +886 (0)2 2358 1165 

Trio, 12 Alley 54, Lane 63, Dunhua S 

Rd, Sec 2, tel: +886 (0)2 2703 8706 

Mod Public Bar, 40 Alley 4, Lane 

345, Renai Rd, Sec 4, tel: +886 (0)2 

2731 4221 

LESLEY HU’S SUNDAY 

The Diner, 145 Ruian St, tel: +886 

(0)2 2700 1680, www.thediner.com.tw 

Escape Artist, 68 Wenchang St, 

tel: +886 (0)2 2707 0767, http:// 

escapeartist.com.tw 

Bellini Pasta Pasta, 1 Chengde 

Rd, tel: +886 (0)2 2550 3238, www. 

humaxasia.com.tw/pasta 

Brown Sugar, 101 Songren Rd, 

tel: +886 (0)2 8780 1110, www. 

brownsugarlive.com 

FIVE SPECIAL STREETS 

DIHUA STREET 

1 

Home to the city’s oldest 

commercial market, Dihua Street 

is a 1km strip of wholesale shops 

selling packaged confections, 

dried fruit, imported groceries and 

Chinese medicinal herbs. Almost 

anything can be taste-tested. Cnr of 

Dihua St and Nanjing West Rd 

ANHE ROAD 

2 

Bar hoppers will love this 2km 

stretch of road featuring dozens of 

watering holes, from high-end lounge 

bars and Japanese sake bistros to 

beer pubs and dance clubs. 

ZHONGSHAN NORTH ROAD 

3 

Wedding portrait studios and 

gown boutiques are the name of 

the game here. Owing to the low 

prices, visitors from other parts 

of Asia come to Taipei just to have 

engagement photos taken. If you’re 

so inclined, walk into any of the 

stores to admire the displays of 

wedding dresses and nightgowns. 

4 WUFENPU 

Taiwan’s biggest wholesale 

garment market is home to hundreds 

of small boutiques that sell just about 

everything in every style imaginable. 

Great deals await patient browsers 

who are good at bargaining. At 

Houshanpi MRT Station 

JIANGUO FLOWER MARKET 

5 

A haven for gardening 

enthusiasts, this weekend market 

sells all things horticultural – from 

seeds to potting soil to gardening 

implements to, you guessed it, 

fl owers. It’s worth visiting just to 

admire the orchids, bonsai, water 

plants and wooden sculptures. 

Jianguo Flower Market 


38 


Matadors or red capes? Not in the southern Thai city of Hat 

Yai, where the time-honoured sport of bullfi ghting pits beast 

against beast in a contest that’s less about bloodshed than 

making a buck, says Igor Prahin 

PHOTOGRAPHY CLAUDE BARUTEL

HAT YAI BULLFIGHTING 


39



Young onlooker 

enjoys the battle 


The atmosphere is festive, the 

temperature oppressively hot 

and the air thick with bull dust. 

I am in the deep south of 

Thailand attending the fi rst 

day of a three-day festival of 

bullfi ghting, or wua chon as it’s known to the 

locals. And as the only farang (foreigner) 

in sight, I am receiving plenty of waves and 

smiles from the amused spectators. At this 

point, I am almost as popular as the bulls. 

Somewhat predictably, men outnumber 

women 20 to one when it comes to this 

sport. More surprising is the number of 

bookmakers parked at the foot of the 

stands, taking wagers from punters who 

fl ash signs and yell out their bets. It’s 

chaotic and money only changes hands at 

the end of each bout. One enthusiast pauses 

long enough to tell me: “Bullfi ghting is very 

fair. It is almost impossible to ‘fi x’ the bout, 

unlike in boxing.” 

Bullfi ghting’s stronghold is in the 

southern Thai provinces of Songkhla, 

Pattalung, Trang and Nakhon Si 

Thammarat. The island of Samui even 

has its own variation, where buffalo are 

used instead of bulls. The sport’s enduring 

popularity is no doubt sustained by the 

sideline betting that goes on. 

One of the bigger “stadiums” for the 

sport is at Baan Nern Khum Tong, which 

is located off the main highway between 

Hat Yai and Pattalung. The venue consists 

of two facing sets of standing-room-only 

wooden stands topped with corrugated 

iron, and two smaller boxes, one for offi cials 

and VIPs (usually local police chiefs and 

politicians) and the other for TV crews. The 

ring consists of a rough-hewn wooden fence 

surrounding a large patch of mud. 

The 500kg-plus participants are carefully 

selected and matched based on their 

strength and skills. The day’s main event 

is a bout between two reddish-coloured 

champions, Langsaat and Nodphet. They 

are led into the arena by their respective 

handlers and proud owners. 

Once in the ring, certain preparations 

are made before the fi ght starts. First, 

sand is rubbed on the horns (which are 

sharpened to a very fi ne point) to neutralise 

any potential coating of poisons or other 

substances. Second, each animal’s face, 

ears and neck are rubbed with ripe banana 

mixed with water to mask any particular 

odours that may negatively impact the bout. 

During this time, there is a frenzy of activity 

in the stands as punters place their bets. 

The striking of a drum in the offi cials’ 

THE 500KG-PLUS PARTICIPANTS ARE CAREFULLY SELECTED AND 

MATCHED BASED ON THEIR STRENGTH AND SKILLS. THE DAY'S 

MAIN EVENT IS A BOUT BETWEEN TWO CHAMPION BULLS 


Betting on the bull fi ght 

is a sideline event 

Thais from the 

countryside fl ock 

to the fi ghts 

A bull is encouraged 

by his master 

The bulls are 

treated like 

athletes with a 

special diet and 

training. 


41

Rush to the Budget counter when you land 

Budget has great rates and deals waiting for you in Australia, Thailand and 

the Philippines. Visit the Budget counter when you land for more details. 

To drive your dollar further

PHOTOGRAPHY CLAUDE BARUTEL 

There are few accidents and 

the bulls defeated leave the 

arena on their feet 

THE BULLS BATTLE FOR POSITION AND PUSH. MUSCLES RIPPLE. 

booth signals the start of the fi ght. The bulls 

are coaxed to the centre of the ring as a din 

of anticipation rises from the stands. Unlike 

the animals in earlier bouts, these two 

require little encouragement to start mixing 

it up. They instinctively do what comes 

naturally for two, testosterone-fuelled 

males… they lock horns. 

The bulls battle for position and push 

with all their might. Muscles ripple, chests 

heave. The amount of energy being exerted 

is immense. From a safe distance, their 

handlers shout encouragement. Every 

tussle is greeted with a roar from the crowd 

and a renewed fl urry of betting. After about 

15 minutes of pushing and shoving, Nodphet 

is outmanoeuvred by Langsaat and exposed 

to a potential lethal jab from his opponent’s 

horns. Nodphet wisely decides to turn 

and fl ee. For Langsaat, it’s a hard-fought 

victory. The crowd goes wild, as do the 

winning bull’s owners. Langsaat receives a 

cold-water rinsing from his proud owner and 

as champion, his horns are adorned with 

decorative cosies and a necklace is placed 

around his neck. 

This bout produced a clear winner but 

in others there’s always the possibility of a 

draw being declared. This occurs when both 

THE EXUBERANT CROWD 

CHESTS HEAVE. EVERY TUSSLE IS GREETED WITH A ROAR FROM 

bulls disengage simultaneously and walk 

away, usually from exhaustion. But the bulls 

are never injured. According to Khun Montri, 

one of the ring offi cials: “This is not a cruel 

sport like cock-fi ghting. Serious injuries are 

very rare. Bullfi ghting is part of our southern 

heritage.” 

Bullfi ghting is barely mentioned in 

guidebooks to Thailand and few urbandwellers 

seem to know that the sport 

exists. It’s believed to have begun under the 

infl uence of Portuguese traders during the 

Ayutthaya period (1351-1767), though it’s 

unclear how the Thai version developed into 

a matador-less, bull-versus-bull affair. 

But there’s more to Hat Yai than bulls. 

Southern Thailand’s key commercial centre 

and the nation’s third-largest metropolitan 

area, Hat Yai is home to one of Thailand’s 

most prestigious schools, The Prince of 

Songkhla University. 

Given that its development began less 

than a century ago – a brief span by Thai 

standards – Hat Yai lacks many of the 

historical and cultural sights typical of other 

cities in Thailand. However, it makes up for 

this shortcoming with its thriving shopping, 

eating and entertainment scenes. Not to 

mention a fl ourishing hotel industry. 

The horns of bulls are bandaged 

so as not to injure their 

opponents 


Before the fi ght, the bulls 

parade around the arena 

BULLFIGHTING 

Bouts are held throughout 

* the year, except on Buddhist 

holy days 

* 

There is typically at least 

one fi ght per week 

Bouts start at around midday 

* and fi nish at about 4pm 

(depending on the length of each 

contest). The main event between 

champion bulls takes place later in 

the schedule 

* 

* 

Admission is about S$6 

(A$4.80) 

Strictly speaking, betting is 

illegal, but it’s commonplace 

Large stadiums are located 

* in Hat Yai, Rattaphum, 

Pattalung, Trang and Nakon Si 

Thammarat 

It’s best to contact one of 

* the local Tourist Authority of 

Thailand (TAT) offi ces for accurate 

and up-to-date information on 

dates and venues 


43

44 

Hat Yai is the largest city 

in Southern, and third 

largest metropolitan 

area of the country 


The fl oating 

market in 

Hat Yai 

there's more 

to hat yai than bullfighting 

SHOPPING 

The most popular markets are Kimyong 

and Santisuk, home to all manner of 

consumer products, from electronics, 

cosmetics, clothes and household goods 

to local and imported produce – nuts, in 

particular. The markets are supplemented 

by local and big-name department 

stores, including branches of Central 

and Robinson. All are located within 

walking distance of one another in the city 

centre. For a more traditional Thai market 

experience (particularly when it comes to 

food), there is also the option of visiting the 

popular Khong Hae Floating Market about 

5 km from town, which is open from 4pm to 

9pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. 

There are typically up to 100 small wooden 

boats lined up side by side along the canal, 

displaying their wares. 

DINING 

Food is where Hat Yai really excels. The 

city’s blend of the Thai-Chinese, Buddhist 

and Muslim cultures means that a fabulous 

array of dishes is available at unbeatable 

prices. For those with only a couple of days 

to spend exploring the city, following are 

some of the culinary highlights: 

BREAKFAST 

● Dim sum: There are numerous well 

known dim sum eateries in town. One that 

comes highly recommended is Runner Dim 

WHERE TO STAY 

Sum. The owner is a champion distance 

runner, hence the name. One of the secrets 

to his athletic success is said to be his daily 

consumption of bak kut teh (pork rib soup 

with Chinese herbs), which appears on the 

menu. Thick, brown kopi (coffee), hot or 

cold, is a recommended accompaniment. 

LUNCH 

● Southern Thai fried chicken (halal): 

Among Thais, Hat Yai is famous for its 

crispy, deep-fried chicken served with 

fragrant saffron rice and chicken soup. 

It’s sold on just about every street corner. 

For a more comfortable, sit-down dining 

experience, visit Gai Thod Daycha. 

● Kanom jeen: The most highly regarded 

restaurant in town is Kanom Jeen Loong 

Kai, which serves fi ve curry varieties, from 

mild green curry to insanely spicy southern 

Thai gaeng tai plaa. Enjoy one or both 

topped with fresh vegetables and mixed 

with the thin rice vermicelli that gives the 

dish its name. The restaurant is always full 

at lunchtime, so come early. 

DINNER 

● Southern Thai cuisine: Hat Yai's longest 

established and most famous exponent is 

Kan Eng Restaurant. The must-try dishes 

here are a yum mamuang (local version 

of mango salad), paad sataw (“stinky 

beans” sautéed with prawns), gaeng som 

(spicy orange curry with fi sh and coconut 

● Novotel Centrara, 3 Sanehanusorn Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 252222, 

www.centarahotelsresorts.com 

● New Season Hotel. 106 Prachathipat Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 352888, 

www.newseasonhotel.com 

● Weenee Hatyai City Resort & Spa, 123 Petkasaem Rd, Soi 10, 

tel: +66(0)74 469222, www.theweenee.com 



46 


COLLEGE OF WISDOM TEMPLE IS AN UNUSUAL, CHINESE-STYLE 

BUDDHIST STRUCTURE THAT'S HOME TO A HUGE GOLDEN 

BUDDHA THAT HOLDS AN ORB – AND HAS AN ARMY OF 

meat) and plaa krabong (deep-fried fi sh 

marinated in cumin). 

● Fresh seafood and bird’s nest soup: 

Served at a number of restaurants located 

in the streets around the Lee Gardens 

Hotel. 

● If you still have space after dinner, 

sample the myriad Thai traditional 

desserts at the stalls set up every evening 

outside the Lee Gardens Hotel. 

TEMPLES 

● Wat Hat Yai Nai is the site of a huge 

reclining Buddha, 35m long and 15m tall, 

which makes it the third largest such 

statue in the world. 

● Mahapanya Vidayalai (College of 

Wisdom) Temple is an unusual, Chinese- 

style Buddhist structure located behind 

Tesco Lotus. It’s home to a huge golden 

Buddha that holds an orb – and has an 

army of smaller golden Buddhas at its 

feet – and a multi-story pagoda from which 

visitors can enjoy views of the city. 

● Phra Maha Chedi Tribob Trimongkol, 

which is relatively new and little-known to 

tourists, is located atop a hill on a road just 

past the new convention centre on the city 

outskirts. The effect of the wind whistling 

through its stainless-steel structure and 

myriad suspended bells enhances the 

meditative atmosphere. 

GETAWAYS 

● Hat Yai Municipal Park is a huge 

green space, located about 6km from the 

centre of town. There’s a lake at the base 

of a mountain that’s home to a number 

of large statues, including a Brahma 

Erawan (elephant) shrine, a statue of Guan 

Yin (Chinese Goddess of Mercy) and a 

towering, golden standing Buddha from 

which visitors can enjoy views of the city. 

Come later in the day to catch a sunset. 


SMALLER BUDDHAS AT ITS FEET – AND A MULTI-STORY PAGODA 

Visits can be arranged as part of package 

tours or you can hire a tuk-tuk outside just 

about any hotel. Be sure to bargain for the 

best price. 

● Ton Nga Chang Waterfall is located 

in a wildlife sanctuary about 26km from 

the city. The waterfall has a total of seven 

levels, the third being the most beautiful. 

It’s said to resemble elephant tusks (chang 

in Thai), hence the name. 

Pack a towel and a swimsuit to go for 

refreshing dip, just like the locals. Food is 

available at the park. The waterfall can be 

reached using public vans, which depart 

regularly from Talat Sot Thet Sa Ban Hat 

Yai market. Admission to the sanctuary is 

about S$8 (A$6). 

Tiger Airways offers frequent fl ights 

between Singapore and Hat Yai. Book 

your fl ights at www.tigerairways.com 

WHERE TO EAT 

● Runner Dim Sum, 3/14 Thanon 

Niphat Songkro 1, Soi 2, tel: +66 

(0)89 653 0129 

● Kan Eng Restaurant, 50/3 Kim 

Pradit Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 246138 

● Daycha Fried Chicken, Thanon 

Chi Uthit, tel: +66 (0)81 098 3751 

● Kanom Jeen Loong Kai, Thanon 

Prachatipat, tel: +66 (0)86 697 

6378 

● Koh Tii Ochaa, 134-136 Thanon 

Niphat Uthit 3, tel: +66 (0)74 

234243 

● Hamid (Halal) Restaurant, 

Opposite Lee Gardens Hotel, 

Prachatipat Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 

243008 

● Post Laser Disc Pub & 

Restaurant (Western-style, livemusic 

bar), 82-84 Thamoonvithee 

Rd, Opposite Indra Hotel, tel: +66 

(0)74 232027 

Reclining 

Buddha in Wat 

Hat Yai Na 

Statues of 

Buddhas at the 

hilltop in Hat Yai 

Municipal Park 

Statue of laughing Buddha in 

Hat Yai Municipal Park 


Come for the fun and excitement, 

for the tranquility and bliss, 

and for the amazing natural treasures 

Whatever you’re wishing for your holiday, 

it’s there and waiting... 

www.indonesia.travel

48 


Forget puttering around the 

harbour on a ferry – it’s time for some serious 

excitement. These adrenaline-charged activities in Australia’s 

most iconic state capital are custom-made 

to set your heart racing, says 

Tiana Templeman 

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM NSW, OCEANWORLD MANLY, MANLY SURF SCHOOL, 

SYDNEY TOWER AND SKYWALK, OZ JET BOATING SYDNEY HARBOUR

BORN TO BE WILD 

SKY HIGH 

SWIMMING WITH SHARKS 

SPIN CITY 

SYDNEY SYDNEY ADRENALINE 

SURFING 

TWILIGHT FINALE 


49

50 

SYDNEY ADRENALINE 

ust sit back and 

take it easy, like 

you’re relaxing in 

an armchair,” says 

the cool biker dude 

when he meets 

me outside my 

hotel, gesturing 

towards his 1700cc 

Harley-Davidson. It’s not quite what 

I expected to hear, but this is no 

ordinary tour. I’ve come to Sydney to 

experience a different side of the city. 

It may be a stretch, but I have a 

habit of likening Sydney to a classic 

Bond girl. It’s blessed with the kind 

of beauty that stops people in their 

tracks, yet still manages to remain 

slightly untamed. And just like a Bond 

beauty, this city knows how to send 

your heart racing. I’ve come for the 

weekend to feel a frisson of danger, 

to eschew the likes of a ferry in favour 

of a jetboat. To skip the hop-on, 

hop-off bus tour and opt instead to 

race around the city astride a Harley- 

Davidson. To climb high above the 

city’s skyscrapers to drink in the views 

and feel the wind in my hair. In short, 

I’ve come to Sydney to feel the beat of 

its wild heart. 

WHERE TO STAY 

DIAMANT HOTEL 

* SYDNEY 

Stay in the heart of Kings Cross 

for an added dose of adrenalin. 

14 Kings Cross Rd, Potts 

Point, tel: +61 (0)2 9295 8888, 

www.8hotels.com 

QUAY WEST SUITES 

* SYDNEY 

Save money by self-catering at 

this family-friendly apartmentstyle 

inn near Circular Quay. 

98 Glouster St, The Rocks, tel: 

+61 (0)2 9240 6000, www. 

mirvachotels.com 

SWISSÔTEL SYDNEY 

* Directly beneath the 

Skywalk and well-placed for 

some serious retail therapy. 

68 Market St, tel: +61 

(0)2 9238 8888, www. 

swissotelsydneyhotel.com.au 


1 

BORN TO BE WILD 

After settling me on the 

surprisingly comfortable Harley, 

my guide Perry Bonassi revs the 

bike’s powerful engine. Soon, we’re cruising 

through The Rocks past the bustling Sunday 

Markets en route to the day’s fi rst stop. 

People of all ages pause and stare at the 

gleaming machine, which has given me 

more street cred in fi ve minutes than I’ve 

had in my entire life. We pull up under the 

Sydney Harbour Bridge for a photo op, then 

the tour begins in earnest with a ride along 

curved roads, past pretty Balmoral, through 

some glamour-packed Sydney suburbs and 

on to Manly. I spy a “Dive with Sharks” sign 

on the side of the Manly Oceanarium and 

feel another adrenaline adventure coming 

on. After a quick stop on top of North Head 

for a panoramic view of the city and a few 

more photos, it’s time to head back to the 

hotel. Our trip has been fairly sedate until 

now, but Perry opens up the throttle for the 

trip home, grinning at the loud “Woo hoo!” 

in his ear as the bike’s power presses me 

against the seat and we zoom back across 

the bridge. 

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM NSW

Shop. Dine. Play. 

Darling Harbour, Sydney 

splash out... 

late night shopping...EVERY NIGHT 

stores open 10am to 9pm 

Award winning restaurants & cafes, amazing 

harbour and city skyline views, latest fashion 

boutiques, bars, bowling....what more do you need? 

For more information visit harbourside.com.au 

Shop. Dine. Play. 

Darling Harbour, Sydney

52 


2 

SWIMMING WITH SHARKS 

With so much to see, it turns 

out there’s little time to be 

scared when you’re diving 

with sharks in a four million-litre tank. 

Grey nurse sharks glide silently past, 

huge stingrays cast ominous shadows 

and schools of silver bream sparkle in 

the distance. Qualifi ed divers can jump 

straight into the huge tank at Manly 

Oceanarium but novices like me have to 

take a quick on-site scuba lesson fi rst. 

After being kitted out with the requisite 

gear, we hop into a practice pool to learn 

how to breathe through a regulator and 

clear a diving mask under water. There’s 

a safety briefi ng and orientation session 

before we slip into the oceanarium for a 

30-minute visit with the denizens of the 

deep. As our instructor takes photos, a 

massive grey nurse shark cruises past 

our diving group at eye level, treating 

us to an impressive, up-close-andpersonal 

view of its razor-sharp teeth. 

Stress-induced bubbles erupt from our 

regulators as we look at each other with 

saucer-eyes. I could swear the shark 

is grinning when it swims back to the 

opposite side of the tank. It quickly 

becomes apparent that the joker and his 

cronies have zero interest in munching on 

a bunch of tourists. After such a massive 

rush of adrenaline, I decide it’s time for 

something a little more sedate and hit 

the beach. 


WHAT TO DO 

BLUE THUNDER DOWN UNDER 

* tel: 1300 258 384, www. 

bluethunderdownunder.com.au 

Rides from A$110/S$139 

OCEANWORLD MANLY 

* West Esplanade, Manly, tel: +61 

(0)2 8251 7877, www.oceanworld. 

myfun.com.au 

Dives from A$185/S$234 

MANLY SURF SCHOOL 

* North Steyne Rd, Manly, tel: +61 (0)2 

9977 6977, www.manlysurfschool.com 

Lessons from A$60/S$76 (Adults), 

A$50/S$63 (Children) 

SYDNEY TOWER SKYWALK 

* Level 5, Westfi eld Shopping 

Centre, 100 Market St, tel: +61 (0)2 9333 

9222, www.sydneytower.myfun.com.au 

Cost: A$65/S$82 (Adults), A$45/S$57 

(Children) 

OZ JET BOATING SYDNEY 

* HARBOUR 

Eastern Pontoon, Circular Quay, tel: +61 

(0)2 9808 3700, www.ozjetboating.com 

Cost: A$65/S$82 (Adults), A$45/S$57 

(Children) 

BRIDGECLIMB SYDNEY 

* 3 Cumberland St, The Rocks, tel: +61 

(0)2 9240 1100, www.bridgeclimb.com 

Climbs from A$188/S$237 (Adults), 

A$128/S$161 (Children) 

3 

SURFING 

It may be called Manly but 

this iconic Sydney beach isn’t 

only for the boys. Small waves 

breaking close to shore make this an ideal 

spot for novice surfers like me. Learners 

with more enthusiasm than experience can 

sign up for lessons at nearby Manly Surf 

School. The atmosphere is lively on this day 

as everyone tries out their moves on the 

beach until the instructors call out, “It’s time 

to hang ten!” And so begins a charge into 

the surf. Water surges beneath our boards, 

the power of the ocean pushing us forward 

as an instructor cheers us on. “Don’t rush 

it,” he shouts, “get your balance fi rst then 

stand up, right?” Um, right. Hanging ten 

still seems like an impossible dream at this 

point, but our two-hour lesson isn’t over 

just yet. I paddle out and join the class one 

last time, smiling as the sun warms my 

back and the ocean laps gently against my 

elbows. I’m not even thinking about surfi ng 

when the wave of my dreams arrives at 

long last. Everything happens in one fl uid 

motion – paddle, push up, stand up. My 

feet are placed fi rmly on the surfboard, my 

body is centred and the wave takes me on 

a leisurely journey to shore. I make it all the 

way to the beach before stepping neatly into 

ankle-deep water. On the ferry ride back 

to the CBD, my eyes are drawn to Sydney 

Tower, rising high above the city. Flush with 

confi dence, I resolve to be the fi rst to reach 

its dizzying heights the following morning. 

PHOTOGRAPHY OCEANWORLD MANLY, MANLY SURF SCHOOL

54 


4 

SKY HIGH 

Our group stands against 

a concrete wall deep 

inside Sydney Tower, 

already hooked into the railed guiding 

system and chatting nervously as we 

wait to step out onto the platform. 

Our guide pushes a button and a 

small silver door rises slowly towards 

the ceiling. After striding out into 

the wind while holding on to the 

steel railing, we make our way onto a 

platform that’s perched at a height 

twice that of the Harbour Bridge. 

After we’ve looked through the glass 

fl oor – it’s far less terrifying than I 

expected – we line up for photos as 

jetboats far below trace perfect white 

foam circles on the harbour surface. 

“We did that yesterday,” says the 

guy next to me. “It was awesome!” 

Then it’s time for some facts and 

fi gures courtesy of our guide, who 

tells us it’s possible for someone 


on the viewing platform to know 

a ship is approaching Sydney two 

hours before it’s known to someone 

standing on Bondi Beach. I can’t 

see any ships today but the view is 

spectacular, extending as far as the 

Blue Mountains more than 70km 

away. After drinking in the panorama, 

we follow our guide around to the 

opposite side of the tower for a look 

down at the Royal Botanic Gardens 

and out to Fort Denison. When we’re 

done, the guide grins and says, “Now 

it’s time for a surprise.” With a whir 

of hydraulics, the glass platform 

beneath our feet begins moving 

forward, taking us out over the busy 

street, 300m below. This last-minute 

thrill is the highlight of the tour for 

most of us, and we’re still grinning 

as we head back inside. I strip off my 

jumpsuit and descend to Circular 

Quay to nose around the harbour. 

5 

SPIN CITY 

I take one look at the fl aming 

red jetboat with a manic grin 

painted on the side and start to 

wonder what I’ve let myself in for, especially 

when the driver tells us to remove our hats 

and sunglasses “unless they’re really, really 

tight” and fasten our seatbelts. Not “low 

and tight” like they said on the fl ight here, 

but “so tight you can’t fi t a bit of paper in 

there.” Plus, I’m seated next to the jetboat 

equivalent of nervous fl yers, a group of four 

teenage girls who are already squealing 

as we putter out of Circular Quay. The 

driver starts us off easy, zooming around 

the smooth, curved seawall of the Sydney 

Opera House, coming to an abrupt halt in 

front of the Sydney Botanic Gardens – cue 

white spray and even more screams – then 

charging back into the main harbour. 

There’s time for a couple of 360º turns – 

and some more serious lung action from 

The Screamers – before we head for Manly 

and its fl eet of seacraft. I can taste the salt 

on my lips as the driver seeks out the wake 

from a larger boat and cuts across it. He 

teases the wheel left and right so that we 

bounce across the waves. Then he fl ips the 

boat towards another channel of foam and 

does it all again. Even The Screamers are 

laughing now. As we motor sedately back 

to the wharf I’m still wearing a grin as wide 

as the Sydney Harbour Bridge. I look up at 

the tiny dots scaling its span and decide 

to follow in their footsteps later that day. 

Climbing the bridge seems a fi tting grand 

fi nale to my wild weekend. 

PHOTOGRAPHY SYDNEY TOWER AND SKYWALK, OZ JET BOATING SYDNEY HARBOUR

54 


4 

SKY HIGH 

Our group stands against 

a concrete wall deep 

inside Sydney Tower, 

already hooked into the railed guiding 

system and chatting nervously as we 

wait to step out onto the platform. 

Our guide pushes a button and a 

small silver door rises slowly towards 

the ceiling. After striding out into 

the wind while holding on to the 

steel railing, we make our way onto a 

platform that’s perched at a height 

twice that of the Harbour Bridge. 

After we’ve looked through the glass 

fl oor – it’s far less terrifying than I 

expected – we line up for photos as 

jetboats far below trace perfect white 

foam circles on the harbour surface. 

“We did that yesterday,” says the 

guy next to me. “It was awesome!” 

Then it’s time for some facts and 

fi gures courtesy of our guide, who 

tells us it’s possible for someone 


on the viewing platform to know 

a ship is approaching Sydney two 

hours before it’s known to someone 

standing on Bondi Beach. I can’t 

see any ships today but the view is 

spectacular, extending as far as the 

Blue Mountains more than 70km 

away. After drinking in the panorama, 

we follow our guide around to the 

opposite side of the tower for a look 

down at the Royal Botanic Gardens 

and out to Fort Denison. When we’re 

done, the guide grins and says, “Now 

it’s time for a surprise.” With a whir 

of hydraulics, the glass platform 

beneath our feet begins moving 

forward, taking us out over the busy 

street, 300m below. This last-minute 

thrill is the highlight of the tour for 

most of us, and we’re still grinning 

as we head back inside. I strip off my 

jumpsuit and descend to Circular 

Quay to nose around the harbour. 

5 

SPIN CITY 

I take one look at the fl aming 

red jetboat with a manic grin 

painted on the side and start to 

wonder what I’ve let myself in for, especially 

when the driver tells us to remove our hats 

and sunglasses “unless they’re really, really 

tight” and fasten our seatbelts. Not “low 

and tight” like they said on the fl ight here, 

but “so tight you can’t fi t a bit of paper in 

there.” Plus, I’m seated next to the jetboat 

equivalent of nervous fl yers, a group of four 

teenage girls who are already squealing 

as we putter out of Circular Quay. The 

driver starts us off easy, zooming around 

the smooth, curved seawall of the Sydney 

Opera House, coming to an abrupt halt in 

front of the Sydney Botanic Gardens – cue 

white spray and even more screams – then 

charging back into the main harbour. 

There’s time for a couple of 360º turns – 

and some more serious lung action from 

The Screamers – before we head for Manly 

and its fl eet of seacraft. I can taste the salt 

on my lips as the driver seeks out the wake 

from a larger boat and cuts across it. He 

teases the wheel left and right so that we 

bounce across the waves. Then he fl ips the 

boat towards another channel of foam and 

does it all again. Even The Screamers are 

laughing now. As we motor sedately back 

to the wharf I’m still wearing a grin as wide 

as the Sydney Harbour Bridge. I look up at 

the tiny dots scaling its span and decide 

to follow in their footsteps later that day. 

Climbing the bridge seems a fi tting grand 

fi nale to my wild weekend. 

PHOTOGRAPHY SYDNEY TOWER AND SKYWALK, OZ JET BOATING SYDNEY HARBOUR

56 


6 

I’ve just managed to sneak 

in for today’s Twilight Climb, 

which according to our guide 

is the most popular of the trips on offer. 

“Twilight often books out way in advance,” 

she says, “but the climbs leaving before or 

after it are a great alternative if you miss 

out.” The fashionistas in our group laugh 

at the amount of accessories we need to 

wear. They change into their jumpsuits 

and strike poses, each gamely swinging a 

hip-belt laden with everything from a warm 

fl eece top in a bag to a walkie-talkie with 

headphones for communicating with our 

guide. Just before we head out onto the 

bridge, I slip on my headlamp in preparation 

for making the return trip in the dark. The 

silver metal gantry clanks under our feet 

and traffi c fl ows overhead as we march 

beneath a bus lane. There are four steep 

ladders to scale before we even reach the 

span of the bridge. We were given a practice 

run on some test ladders, but I forget that 

there’s now a bus lane right alongside me. 

I’m halfway up when a bus zooms past my 

ear, leaving me yelping like a surprised 

chihuahua. Still, being at the head of the 

line has its advantages. While the others 

await their turns to climb the ladders, I seize 

the opportunity to admire the view. Once 

everyone arrives, we climb a little way up 


TWILIGHT FINALE 

the span to watch the sun sink below the 

horizon. It’s gone in a matter of minutes but 

as we walk towards the fl ags fl uttering on 

the bridge high above, the sky continues to 

change – bathing the Opera House in pastel 

pink and suffusing the horizon with a soft 

blue glow. The ascent is over surprisingly 

quickly. Even with a couple of commentary 

stops we’re there in around 10 minutes, but 

it doesn’t feel rushed and there’s plenty 

of time at the top to look around. After our 

guide takes some photos, we walk from one 

side of the bridge to the other, peering down 

on Australia’s busiest highway and getting 

ready for our descent. I switch on the light 

that’s attached to the band stretched 

across my forehead, then follow the guide 

back down the stairs. I look towards the city 

lights, which seem to have come on while 

no one was paying attention. From up here, 

Sydney comes across as a living, breathing 

entity. High-rise buildings clothe it in showy 

fi nery and the constant stream of cars is like 

the blood rushing through its veins. And as 

I’ve discovered over the past few days, the 

beat of its wild heart is easy to fi nd for those 

courageous enough to seek it out. 

Tiger Airways fl ies to Sydney from 

Melbourne. Book your fl ights at 

www.tigerairways.com 

WHERE TO EAT 

PONY LOUNGE AND DINING 

* Well-priced plates to share and an 

interesting wine list make it tempting 

to linger at this contemporary modern 

Australian eatery in The Rocks. Equally 

good for a glass of wine, a quick bite or 

a three-course meal. 14-15 The Rocks 

Centre, The Rocks, tel: +61 (0)2 9252 

7797, www.ponydining.com.au 

CAFÉ SOPRA 

* Don’t let the casual atmosphere 

fool you, this Italian restaurant 

tucked inside one of the city’s best 

providores is seriously good. Classic 

dishes are served with a smile by the 

predominantly Italian staff. Slightly off 

the tourist trail but an easy fi ve-minute 

walk from Circular Quay. Shop 8, 16 

Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay, tel: +61 (0)2 

8243 2700, www.fratellifresh.com.au 

OPERA KITCHEN 

* Million-dollar harbour views make 

this upmarket food court hard to beat 

at any time of day. Place an order at 

one of the counters and a classy meal is 

soon delivered to your table. There’s an 

impressive array of cuisines on offer and 

service is speedy. Lower Concourse, 

Sydney Opera House, tel: +61 (0)2 9247 

0480, www.operakitchen.com.au 

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM NSW

The ultimate ffamily 

holiday 

Close to theme parks 

Relax by the poolEnjoy family games 

Fun for the kids 

book today on 1800 339 966 

www.treasureisland.com.au 

GOLD COAST 

Located on the sunny Gold Coast, we are 

the ultimate family holiday destination. 

You’re sure to have plenty of fun with 

resort pools, jumping pillow, playground, 

go karts, mini golf, tennis court and 

much more! 

Perfectly positioned between the 

Broadwater, theme parks and outlet 

shopping, your Gold Coast holiday will 

be remembered forever. 

FSHP_TI873

Colourful Past 

Looking for different perspective on Kuala Lumpur? Wander around Pudu which is like a time capsule preserved as it was generations ago, says Elle Chen

PHOTOGRAPHY JACK CHEN 

KUALA LUMPUR 

A sea of colourful umbrellas 

shelters hundreds of tiny 

wooden stalls in the narrow 

lanes of the old Pudu Market 


59

HOUSE OF SEAFOOD @ 180 

(Formerly known at Joo Chiat Place) 

Welcome to Singapore! The Food Paradise! 

• Your stay / holiday in Singapore will not be complete without trying our 

• Singapore famous signature black pepper or chilli crab. 

• Endorsed by foreign celebrities and travellers! 

• Be prepared for the long queue for the best seafood in town but worth the waiting! 

MAIN• 180 Yio Chu Kang Road (Near Serangoon Gardens) Singapore 545628; 

Tel: 6282 7180; Operating Hours: 5pm to 11pm Daily 

BRANCH• Blk 88, Bedok North St 4, #01-125 Singapore 460088; 

Tel: 6442 5180; Operating Hours: 5pm to 12am Daily 

BRANCH• (Air-Conditioned) 30 Cosford Road, Singapore 499550 (Near Changi Prison); 

Tel: 6746 9000; Operating Hours: 11am to 2.30pm Daily; 5.30pm to 11pm Daily 

BRANCH• (Air-Conditioned) 36 Yio Chu Kang Road, Singapore 545553 (opp. Serangoon Stadium entrance); 

Tel: 6285 9711; Operating Hours: 11am to 2pm Daily; 5pm to 11pm Daily 

www.houseofseafood.com.sg 

“The Crab You’ll Crave For” 

in Singapore 

No Service Charge & GST 

Voted the 

Best 

Pepper 

Crab


A Chinese temple painted with 

portraits of deities to protect 

against evil spirits 

PUDU STILL 

MOVES TO 

A LAIDBACK 

RHYTHM ALL 

ITS OWN 

KUALA LUMPUR 

IN A LABYRINTH of narrow alleyways 

crammed with umbrella-shaded market 

stalls, the air is fi lled with the aroma of raw 

mutton, poultry and beef and the sound of 

impassioned haggling between sellers and 

buyers. Old wooden tables creak under piles 

of mangosteens, durians, papayas and just 

about every other farm product under the 

sun. Goods are snatched up by wrinkled 

hands, swiftly wrapped in newspaper and 

tossed back to buyers who just as quickly 

vanish into the crowd. Welcome to the Pudu 

Wet Market, the oldest facility of its kind 

in Kuala Lumpur and the heartbeat of the 

historic Pudu township in the city centre. 

Just a stone’s throw from Bukit 

Bintang, the capital’s iconic shopping 

and entertainment district, Pudu is one 

of the oldest (and the last survivor) of the 

city’s “urban villages”. And despite the 

development that has gone on all around 

it for years, Pudu still moves to a laidback 

rhythm all its own. The peeling paint and 

faded signboards on the façades of centuryold 

shophouses testify to the township’s 

storied history. While the arrival of malls, 

hotels and offi ce buildings has erased many 

remnants of the old KL, Pudu still offers 

glimpses of life as it was here decades ago. 

Traditional Pudu 

architecture 


61

with designers’ touch 

Hock Lee Centre, Hotel Tower, Jalan Datuk Abang Abdul Rahim, 93450 Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia. 

Tel: +6082 484888 Fax: +6082 484999 

Email: reservation@360kuching.com Website: www.360kuching.com 

Room pictures shown here are for Tower A only. 

Rates from 

RM 99.00 

Nett* 

Pleasure Relaxation 

& 

* Terms & conditions applicable


Harking back to a time when the area 

was still covered in jungle and coconut 

groves, locals still refer to Pudu as Pun 

San Pah (“half of a forest” in Cantonese). 

Teoh Chee Keong, a lecturer and heritage 

conservationist who leads guided walks 

along Pudu’s streets, says the harmony 

among members of the area’s many ethnic 

communities has persisted for decades. 

“To me, the commercial areas encircling the 

Petronas Twin Towers, Bangsar and Bukit 

Bintang do not represent KL,” Keong says. 

“These places are modern and spruced 

up. The real KL is where the locals live – in 

Lai Tuck Kee 

Puff stall at the 

Jalan Pasar 

places such as Pudu.” 

The township dates 

back to the British colonial 

era, when the fi rst Chinese 

migrants began settling here. 

By the turn of the century, the 

expansion of the Kuala Lumpur Railway had 

remade the area into a major transportation 

hub. The granting of independence to 

Malaya in 1957 sparked even further 

development, transforming just about every 

corner of KL. But not Pudu. 

On a Sunday morning walk through the 

village, elderly men can be seen sipping 

coffee and trading stories. Housewives 

hang laundry from the balconies of old 

tenements. The aroma of freshly cooked 

won ton noodles and char siu pork fi lls 

the air. And elderly residents place fresh 

joss sticks on small Chinese altars outside 

ancient-looking shophouses. 

Fong Kui Lun, a Member of Parliament 

whose constituency includes Pudu, says the 

community remains fi ercely independent. 

“The march of time has not altered the 

culture or sense of belonging that Pudu 

folks take pride in,” he says. “Generations 

of families live here and the sense of 

community is tangible – folks know one 

another. And they still refer to themselves as 

coming from ‘Pun San Pah’, not KL.” 

That’s not the only way in which local 

residents stand apart. They also tend to be 

“THE REAL KL 

IS WHERE THE 

LOCALS LIVE – 

IN PLACES SUCH 

AS PUDU” 

WHERE TO STAY 

KUALA LUMPUR 

Kuala Lumpur’s most 

recognisable landmark - the 

Pudu Jail was built in 1895 

Berjaya Times Square Hotel 

– Centrally located at the 

intersection of Jalan Bukit 

Bintang, Jalan Imbi and Jalan 

Pudu, the hotel is part of Times 

Square Mall and is within easy 

reach of a KL Monorail station. 

Its rooms, studios and suites 

are Wi-Fi equipped. Room rates 

average about S$151 (A$121). 

Until November, guests who stay 

for three consecutive nights are 

entitled to a free night. 1 Jln Imbi, 

tel: +60 (0)3 2117 8000, www. 

berjayahotel.com 


63

64 

KUALA LUMPUR 

fi ercely anti-establishment, which helps 

explain why Pudu has been an opposition 

party stronghold for decades. It’s fair to 

say that the community’s powerful and 

enduring attachment to the past is closely 

linked to its role in building the old KL. 

Pudu’s kilns were in operation even before 

those in the heritage quarter of Brickfi elds 

– turning out the blocks of masonry used 

to build huge sections of the capital in 

the late 19th century. The kilns were later 

moved to Brickfi elds, and the facility that 

once housed them became Pudu Prison, 

a local landmark from its completion in 

1895 until its demolition began in June 

last year. Malaysians from across the 

country still seek out Pudu’s historic Tung 

Shin Hospital, built in 1881 under the 

supervision of Chinese kapitan (ethnic 

community head) Yap Kwan Seng, owing 

to its fame as a facility where patients can 

visit both physicians specialising in Western 

treatments and those trained in traditional 

Chinese medicine. 

WHERE TO EAT 

Sek Yuen Restaurant – One of the 

city’s oldest eateries, Sek Yuen 

has been around since 1948 and 

is located in an Art Deco building. 

Many of the staff members 

have been with the restaurant 

for decades. Here, elderly men 

wearing old-fashioned white 

cotton shorts and singlets, serve 

simple home-style Cantonese 

dishes like juicy pai kuat wong 

(king’s pork ribs) and pat poh 

ngap (eight treasures duck, 

braised with gingko nuts and 

mushrooms; must be preordered). 

313 Jln Pudu, tel: +60 

(0)3 9222 0903~9457 


Traditional trades such as 

sharpening knives, scissors and 

shears by hand continue today 

PHOTOGRAPHY JACK CHEN


The Chinese temple remains 

a hub for the local community 

A vendor at the 

Pudu market 

Small styrofoam pellets 

display the price of 

ornamental fi sh 

An old shophouse 

of Pudu 

A LOCAL ARTS 

SPACE SET UP 

THE PUDU ART 

AND CULTURAL 

WALK 

Spirituality continues to 

play a central role in the lives 

of Pudu residents. In keeping 

with its multicultural character, 

the area is dotted with what seems like 

an endless array of places of worship, from 

the Sri Gaesar Court Hill Temple and First 

Assembly of God Church, to the Choon Wan 

Xian Shi Temple – dating back to 1879 – and 

the Jamek Alam Shah Mosque, which was 

completed seven years later. 

Despite Pudu’s cultural riches and 

central place in the capital’s history, only 

recently has a greater awareness of the 

area’s uniqueness begun to take hold. Last 

year, the Lost Generation Arts Space, run 

by a local artists’ collective, established 

the Pudu Art and Cultural Walk as a way to 

spotlight the community and its heritage. 

The annual Pudu Community Art Project, 

held in conjunction with the Mid-Autumn 

Festival in September, showcases the 

WHAT TO DO 

KUALA LUMPUR 

work of area artists and features outdoor 

performances, workshops and exhibitions. 

It remains to be seen if the increased 

attention to Pudu will result in greater 

efforts to preserve its unique character. 

Already, changes are under way. The 

community’s three Art Deco picture 

palaces are gone. And efforts by heritage 

conservationists to preserve the 115-yearold 

prison began long before it was 

supplanted by the Petronas Twin Towers in 

1998 as KL’s most recognisable landmark. 

The massive mural that can still be seen 

on the prison’s exterior wall – painted by 

a former prisoner – earned a listing in The 

Guinness Book of World Records as the 

planet’s longest. It’s not the only piece of 

history that may soon be lost forever. 

Tiger Airways has multiple daily 

fl ights to Kuala Lumpur. Book your 

fl ights at www.tigerairways.com 

Guided Pudu Art and Cultural Walks – Led by architecture lecturer and 

conservationist Teoh Chee Keong, the walks are offered on weekends in English 

or Mandarin. Participants are treated to a fascinating account of the area’s 

unique architectural features and the changes that have taken place here over 

the past century. The fee is about S$121 (A$97) per group and all funds are 

funnelled to community projects. Visitors can also opt to collect a free map 

at the Eu Yan Sang store on Shaw Parade to explore the area on their own. 

Contact Pudu Community Art Project director Yeoh Lian Heng at tel: +60 (0)19 

683 9397 or Teoh Chee Keong at tel: +60 (0)16 345 5710. 


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Tiger Airways serves 27 destinations within Asia and Australia. 

Here are our top tips on where to eat, shop, play and stay. 

Happy travels! 

Bangalore 

INDIA 

Chennai 

Thiruvananthapuram Tiruchirappalli 

Destination Guides 

THAILAND 

Bangkok 

Phuket 

Krabi 

Hat Yai 

VIETNAM 

Hanoi 

Penang 

Kuala Lumpur 

Ho Chi 

Minh 

City 

Bangalore, Bangkok & Cebu 

Chennai, Guangzhou & Haikou 

Hanoi, Hat Yai & Ho Chi Minh City 

Hong Kong, Jakarta & Krabi 

Kuala Lumpur, Kuching & Macau 

Manila, Penang & Perth 

Phuket, Shenzhen & Singapore 

Taipei, Tiruchirappalli & Thiruvananthapuram 

Brisbane, Melbourne & Sydney 

CHINA 

Macau 

Haikou 

MALAYSIA 

SINGAPORE 

Jakarta 

INDONESIA 

Perth 

Guangzhou 

Shenzhen 

Hong 

Kong 

Kuching 

Manila-Clark 

(DMIA) 

Tiger Bases 

International fl ights 

Australia domestic fl ights 

Operated by SEAIR 

Taipei 

AUSTRALIA 

TAIWAN 

PHILIPPINES 

Manila 

(NAIA) 

Cebu 

Davao 

Melbourne 

(Tullamarine) 

Brisbane 

Sydney 

sep-oct tiger tales

70 

touchdown 

Bangalore 

INDIA 


Lotus Mahal 

Hampi India 

INSIDER TIP 

Take a walk through the Malleswaram 

neighbourhood and discover its colourful 

markets, tree-lined residential streets, age-old 

temples and traditional eateries. 

SHOP TALK 

Anokhi has revived traditional blockprinting 

techniques and sells a colourful array 

of clothing in comfortable cottons along with 

beautiful home furnishings like bed covers, 

sheets and cushion covers. Level B, The Leela 

Galleria, 23 Airport Rd, tel: +91 (0)80 4126 

2360, www.anokhi.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Its new name is Sri Sagar but locals still call 

it CTR. This tiny eatery famous for its delicious 

dosas (rice and lentil pancakes) is always 

packed. 155 7th Cross, 3rd Main, Margosa Rd, 

Malleswaram, tel: +91 (0)80 2331 7531 

TOP TABLES 

Dakshin is the city’s most stylish South 

Indian restaurant, serving specialities from 

each of the four southern states. Sheraton 

ITC Windsor Hotel, 25 Windsor Square, 

Golf Course Rd, tel: +91 (0)80 4140 1223, 

www.itcwelcomgroup.in 

AT YOUR LEISURE 

Rated as India’s best golf course, Eagleton 

Golf Village is set amid scenic surroundings 

on the city’s outskirts. It’s also home to a pool, 

spa and recreational facilities for non-golfers. 

30th km, Bangalore – Mysore Hwy, 2438 

Kumara Krupa, 9th Main, Shyanamangala 

Cross, Banashankari 2nd Stage, Bidadi, tel: 

+91 (0)80 2263 2222, www.eagletonindia.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Unwind with a cocktail on one of the many 

couches at the aptly named Couch. There are 

two levels, each with its own bar and extensive 

menu of cocktails and food. 114 MG Rd, tel: +91 

(0)80 4151 2898, www.itcwelcomgroup.in 

OVERNIGHT 

The Park is India’s fi rst boutique property. 

Designed by Terence Conran, the hotel’s 

contemporary design features stylish and 

funky accents and each fl oor has its own 

unique theme. 14/7 MG Rd, tel: +91 (0)80 2559 

4666, www.theparkhotels.com 

Bangkok 

THAILAND 

Temple of the 

Emerald Buddha 

INSIDER TIP 

It’s hard to beat the colour and atmosphere 

of the Hindu community’s Navaratree 

Festival. The nine-day event starts on 28 

September, with the festivities taking place at 

Maha Uma Devi Temple on Silom Road. 

SHOP TALK 

Emo rockers and indie kids should 

head to Gasoline and Garage, home to 

Thai designer Thanarad Mayteedol’s line 

of drainpipe jeans – in a kaleidoscope of 

colours. F1, Siamkitti Bldg, Siam Square, 

tel: +66 (0)81 456 4272 

CHEAP EATS 

Discover the unique fusion of Chinese and 

Indian fl avours on offer at Dragon Café, which 

takes an innovative approach to some of the 

world’s favourite fast foods. The vegetarian 

Manchurian and kung pao chicken are musttries. 

Sukhumvit Soi 21, tel: +66 (0)2 204 

0588, www.dragonxpress.com 

TOP TABLES 

Thanks to its relaxed garden seating and 

secluded rooms in a refurbished wooden 

house out back, Salt has become one of the 

hottest hangouts in the Soi Aree area. Soi Aree 

4, tel: +66 (0)2 619 6886 


Tap into the local creative scene by 

dropping in at The Reading Room, a hotbed of 

fi lm screenings, culture talks and hot debates 

on the world of art. 2 Silom 19, Silom, tel: +66 

(0)2 635 3674, www.readingroombkk.org 

LATE & LIVELY 

The ancient tree centrepiece, “cloud 

machine” and acrylic bar at Clouds create a 

futuristic, eco-friendly aesthetic. Superb wine 

and vodka cocktails, too. SeenSpace, Thong 

Lor Soi 13, tel: +66 (0)2 185 2368 

OVERNIGHT 

With its cartographic-inspired interiors, 

Bangkok street signs and communal spaces 

designed to create a friendly and inclusive 

environment, Lub D Silom – which takes its 

name from the Thai word for a “good night’s 

sleep” – has reinvented the backpacker hostel. 

Choose from dorms or private rooms. Decho 

Rd, tel: +66 (0)2 634 7999, www.lubd.com 

Cebu 

PHILIPPINES 

Fort San Pedro 

INSIDER TIP 

The pigs raised for lechon (roasted pig) 

specialist Zubuchon restaurant are fattened 

up with organic lemongrass, green onions, 

peppers and other herbs and spices and then 

cooked over a charcoal pit. Banilad Town 

Centre, tel: +63 (0)32 236 5264 

SHOP TALK 

What was once a storage area for coal, 

Carbon Market is now the biggest venue of its 

kind in Cebu. Head over to experience the raw 

energy or to snag cheap bags and accessories. 

MC Briones and Calderon Sts, Cebu City 

CHEAP EATS 

No trip to Cebu is complete without gorging 

on fresh seafood, sutukil or STK-style. Short 

for sugba (to grill), tuwa (cook in broth) and 

kilaw (ceviche – a seafood dish), sutukil is 

synonymous with seafood restaurant district 

STK ta Bay!. 6 Orchid St, Capitol Site, Cebu 

City, tel: +63 (0)32 256 4732 


Cebu is a great jumping-off point for trips 

to nearby islands to snorkel or dolphin watch 

so book a cruise with Islands Banca Cruises. 

Aldeguer Compound Nasipit, Talamban, Cebu 

City, tel: +63 (0)32 236 4896 

LATE & LIVELY 

Park yourself at the glass-encased bar 

at Treff and dine on everything from pizza 

to scallops to baby-back ribs. The Gourmet 

Walk, Waterfront Cebu City Hotels & Casinos, 

Salinas Dr, Lahug, tel: +63 (0)32 232 6888 

OVERNIGHT 

TOP TABLES 

Afi cionados of good wine and design 

should visit Z Bar. Its incandescent, 

cavern-like interiors are the work of famed 

furniture designer Kenneth Cobonpue. 2/F, 

The Tinderbox Restaurant, Archbishop 

Reyes Ave, Banilad, Cebu City 

DAVID-PILAR 

MABEL CEBU: LOWE, GREG BANGKOK: PUTINJA, 

Charming, comfy digs can still be had in the 

Queen City of the South without the royal price 

ISABEL 

tag. An ancestral home-turned-B&B, Casa 

Escaño’s rooms are spacious and tastefully 

furnished and restaurant Don Merto’s boasts 

an impressive breakfast menu. Juana Osmeña 

St, Cebu City, tel: +63 (0)32 253 5564 BANGALORE: 

Very affordable Good value Worth the splurge

Pay2Home 

Redefining Remittances 

25% 

Discount 

 

2 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Enjoy 25% 

 

2 

Central Spacious Comfortable 

You’re invited to stay at one 

of Perth’s most centrally 

located 3 star hotels. 

525 Hay St (cnr Pier St), Perth 

Western Australia , 6000 

Phone: (61 8) 9323 2777 Fax (61 8) 9 323 2888 

Web www.kingshotel.com.au 

Email info@kingshotel.com.au

72 

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Chennai 

INDIA 

San Thome Basilica 

Cathedral 

INSIDER TIP 

Now that temperatures have fallen, it’s the 

ideal time to explore the city by bike. Rise 

early, join fellow cyclists at Madhya Kailash and 

travel on two wheels down to Mamallapuram. 

tel: +91 (0)98 4012 6666 

SHOP TALK 

Located in a converted bungalow, 

Sundari Silks offers saris, stoles, kurtis 

(hip-length blouses), ties and furnishings 

in silk. With jewellery and accessories, too, 

it’s a lovely place to shop. 38 North Usman 

Rd, T Nagar, tel: +91 (0)44 2814 3093 

CHEAP EATS 

Grab a seat indoors or outdoors at Ashvita, 

the perfect place to hide away with a book or 

laptop while nibbling on a Momo platter or 

peaches and feta cheese starter. 11 2nd St, Dr 

RK Salai, Mylapore, tel: +91 (0)44 4210 9990 

TOP TABLES 

Kryptos on the city’s fashion street has 

warm interiors and tasty Greek and Cypriot 

food, with surprising vegetarian options. 

There’s also a selection of soups and desserts. 

24 Yafa Tower, Khader Nawaz Khan Rd, 

Nungambakkam, tel: +91 (0)44 4503 8001 


Standing proud in suburban Chennai is 

one of India’s oldest churches, built about 

240 years ago. Each of the six bells in the 

Armenian Church tower, one of which is 

15 years older than the church itself, weighs 

about 200kg. Armenian St 

LATE & LIVELY 

The Turf is a restaurant and sports bar on 

the beachside in south Chennai. There’s one 

venue each for fans of football, tennis, racing 

and cricket. Unwind with a game and a beer. 

Le Waterina, Waterland Dr, Kotivakkam, tel: 

+91 (0)44 2451 5435 

OVERNIGHT 

With easy access to both the IT corridor 

and local attractions, new hotel Keys is clean, 

comfortable and classy. A cheery bar and 

restaurant plus other amenities such as a 

business centre make it a very good value. 

11/23 Kalakshetra Rd, Thiruvanmiyur, tel: +91 

(0)44 4900 2050 


Guangzhou 

CHINA 

Guangzhou International 

Convention and Exhibition Center 

INSIDER TIP 

Professionals are available to appraise 

your antiques on the fourth Sunday of each 

month at Wuxianguan Daoism Temple Xizhai 

Xiang. Huifuxi Rd, Close to Gongyuanqian 

Subway Station 

SHOP TALK 

The Xiaogang Material and Accessories 

Market is a DIY heaven. Booths here sell all 

manner of surplus clothing and accessories 

from fashion houses. Though they’re offcuts, 

many are sizeable enough to be turned into 

trendier wear. Dig into those bargain bins for 

great deals. Xiaogang Subway Station 

CHEAP EATS 

Jurong Dumplings sells instant, made-toorder 

dumplings in both traditional and off-thewall 

fl avours like seaweed and sweet corn. Fill 

up for only S$2/A$1.50. Booth 4, Siyou Er Ma 

Lu, tel: +86 (0)20 8739 9710 

TOP TABLES 

At Ah Yat Abalone, choose from selections 

such as the abalone set menu, which includes 

bird’s nest soup, shark’s fi n, abalone and 

prawn dishes. 1-2/F Jiayi Yuan, 445 Tian He 

Bei Rd, tel: +86 (0)20 3886 8363 


Explore the giant boat-shaped Guangdong 

Olympic Stadium, which was the main venue 

for the 2010 Asian Games. The terrace outside 

extends to the Pearl River and offers eyecatching 

city views. Haixinsha Island, Lin Jiang 

Da Dao, tel: +86 (0)20 8420 2521 

LATE & LIVELY 

What was once a cannery has been 

transformed into Edtory Art & Living 

District, a popular hangout for artists, 

designers, musicians and other creative 

types. The area is packed with swanky bars 

and retro cafés. 128 Yuanchun Si Heng Lu 

OVERNIGHT 

Offering lovely river views and boasting a 

large tropical garden, the Shangri-la Hotel 

redefi nes elegance and tranquility. It’s walking 

distance to the convention centre so it’s the 

ideal base for Canton Fair and other trade 

show visitors. 1 Huizhan Dong Rd, tel: +86 

(0)20 8917 8888, www.shangri-la.com 

Haikou 

CHINA 

Vessels in port 

INSIDER TIP 

Bus No 21 takes passengers from the 

airport across the city for about S$1/A$0.75. 

The cost of taking a taxi or private car to the 

city centre is about S$11/A$8.20. 

SHOP TALK 

Looking for a cool gift? Head to Wooyin 

Shop, located on the fl oor above the Haikou 

Post Offi ce. There is a tucked-away mini mall 

with boutiques selling all manner of gift items. 

Personalise a T-shirt with your own photos. 

2/F, 16 Jiefang West Rd, tel: +86 (0)898 3631 

5191, www.wooyin.net 

CHEAP EATS 

During the summer, it’s a local custom to 

feast on cold qingbuliang, a cold Cantonese 

soup made with sweetened coconut water, 

soya pearls, baked taro, oatmeal, quail eggs, 

red dates, beans and jelly. It's available for 

pocket change at street stalls across the city. 

TOP TABLES 

Babela’s Kitchen is a newcomer to 

Haikou but is already a favourite of expats 

as it’s the only place in town to enjoy tasty 

asparagus soup. 2/F, Minbo Bldg, Cnr of 

3rd West Rd, tel: +86 (0)898 6627 3797, 

www.4007787878.com 


The enthusiastic surfi ng crew at Mandarin 

Surf will take you to the best Hainan beaches 

and sea swells. You’ll fi nd the store on Bin Hai 

Avenue between the 0898 Hot Spring Hotel 

and the Bank Of China, a fi ve-minute drive 

from the Xiuying Sailing Training Centre. 

www.mandarin-surf.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

The only 4D Cinema on Hainan Island 

is located in Sanya. Films made in 4D can 

typically simulate rain, wind, strobe lighting 

effects and even smells. 7/F, Pearl Square 

Shopping Mall, tel: +86 (0)898 8836 9866 

OVERNIGHT 

Conveniently located in a popular expat 

enclave in central Haikou, LC Spa Hotel 

boasts a hot-spring pool, massage and 

physiotherapy centre, and even a hairstyling 

salon. 8 Shimaoxi Rd, Binhai Blvd, tel: +86 

(0)898 6857 6666 

Very affordable Good value Worth the splurge 

CHENNAI: VAISHNA ROY, GUANGZHOU: MAY GUAN, HAIKOU: ALEXANDER LEVITES

An evening with wildlife 

This award winning cruise takes you around the rivers and creeks of the Santubong Peninsula, 

offering you the chance of seeing some of Sarawak’s fascinating wildlife. The cruise starts at the 

Sarawak Boat Club. From there your boat cruises to the mouth of the Santubong River where 

Irrawaddy dolphins are often spotted. 

Your boat then roams the mangrove-lined rivers looking for wildlife. As the light starts to fade we 

go in search of the rare proboscis monkey. Small groups are often seen in the treetops at the 

waters edge, settling down for the night. 

As dusk arrives we search for fireflies and crocodiles . The bright shining eyes of the crocodile are 

often seen on the mud banks with the help of a torch light. When the mangrove swamp comes to 

near darkness, fireflies can be seen moving around branches of the mangroves, momentarily 

lighting up the night sky. After an unforgettable firefly show you return to the boat club. 

For bookings or further details please contact: 

CPH Travel Agencies (Sarawak) Sdn Bhd 

No.70, Ground Floor, Padungan Road, Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia 

Tel: +6 082-243708, 242289, 414921 Fax: +6 082-424587 

Email: cphtrvl@streamyx.com 

www.cphtravel.com.my 

Santubong Wildlife Cruise

74 

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Hanoi 

VIETNAM 


Street scene 

INSIDER TIP 

Avoid price-gouging taxi drivers at Noi Bai 

International Airport by walking out the front 

door and fi nding the offi cial Airport Taxi 

(Vietnam Airlines) or Noi Bai Taxi ranks. 

SHOP TALK 

At Tan My Design you’ll fi nd traditional 

Vietnamese silk and embroidered items 

along with accessories, fashion goods and 

homewares by leading designers. 61-65 

Hang Gai, tel: +84 (0)4 3938 1154, www. 

tanmyembroidery.com.vn 

CHEAP EATS 

Whether you’re on a budget or want to 

do as the Hanoians do, head for a com binh 

dan (rough translation, “rice for the common 

people”) restaurant. Enjoy a vast array of 

meat, fi sh and vegetable dishes for next to 

nothing. One of the best is Com Vinh Thu. 

14 Ly Thuong Kie, Hoan Kiem District 

TOP TABLES 

Inside a white-washed, shuttered 

French colonial villa, La Badiane’s chef 

Benjamin Rascalou creates sumptuous 

dishes blending French themes and Asian 

trimmings. 10 Nam Ngu, tel: +84 (0)4 3942 

4509, www.labadiane.hanoi.sitew.com 


If the heat and noise of downtown Hanoi 

prove too much for you, slip away onto one of 

the shore-hugging roads of West Lake where 

you’ll fi nd cafés and roadside stalls selling 

seafood, juices and beer which you can enjoy 

while taking in the lakeside views. 

LATE & LIVELY 

A soundproofed live music venue with an 

adjacent outdoor courtyard bar for imbibing, 

Hanoi Rock City has breathed much-needed 

life into the capital’s music scene and nightlife. 

27/52 To Ngoc Van, West Lake District. Check 

@hanoirockcity on Twitter for upcoming gigs 

OVERNIGHT 

A stay at boutique hotel Joseph’s by St 

Joseph’s Church puts you right in the heart of 

Hanoi, with most of the city’s best shopping 

districts and restaurants within walking 

distance. 5 Au Trieu, tel: +84 (0)4 3938 1048, 

www.josephshotel.com 

Hat Yai 

THAILAND 

Hilltop temple at 

Khao Tang Kuan 

INSIDER TIP 

No visit to Hat Yai is complete without a 

bit of shameless self-indulgence. Enjoy the 

luxurious Preuksa Package at Preuksa Spa, a 

three-hour treatment combining herbal steam, 

body scrub, aroma massage and more. 210/7 

Niphat Uthit 2 Rd, tel: +66 (0)83 192 9493 

SHOP TALK 

Hat Yai isn’t exactly a paradise for 

bibliophiles, but there’s a decent selection 

of English-language books and maps at 

Plearn Aksorn Book Centre, located next 

to the Robinson department store. 3-7 Soi 

Hat Yai City, tel: +66 (0)74 354273 

CHEAP EATS 

For free Wi-Fi, head to cosy café Nakorn 

Nai, popular for its laidback vibe and wideranging 

menu, which boasts everything from 

Thai mainstays to Chinese stir-fries, Muslim 

curries, Indian rotis and Western favourites. 

166/7 Niphat Uthit 2 Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 232550 

TOP TABLES 

Using primarily imported premium 

meats and greens, visually arresting eatery 

Whisker has established itself as a class act. 

Try the pan-seared duck breast with citrus 

salad, Greek kebabs and souvlaki. 45/5 

Saengchan Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 244833 


The Hat-Yai Resort and Golf Club is 

southern Thailand’s fi rst championship 

course, one with long par-fi ves, narrow 

fairways and an abundance of water hazards. 

26/7 Rajyindee Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 434 7703 

LATE & LIVELY 

Even with upstarts popping up regularly, 

The Pubb’s standout resident band and 

friendly staff go a long way to explain why this 

local stalwart continues to reign supreme 

among live music bars. 79/4 Thamnoon Vithee 

Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 231029 

OVERNIGHT 

Right beside Robinsons and near the main 

shopping district, Louise Guesthouse is 

second to none when it comes to location. 

Enjoy a clean, comfortable room with 

attached bath and soundproof windows. 21-23 

Thamnoonvitti Rd, tel: +66 (0)74 220966 

Ho Chi Minh City 

VIETNAM 

Dai Nam Van Hien 

Safari Park 

INSIDER TIP 

Vietnamese coffee varieties are graded 

on strength, with 8 being the strongest. A No 8 

coffee is called café chon after the weasel-like 

animal that only eats the coffee fruit. 

SHOP TALK 

Dogma Vietnam is a street-style gallery 

featuring fashion items, posters, patches 

and mouse pads all decked out in bright 

propaganda slogans. 43 Ton That Thiep, 

District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 3899 7980, www. 

dogmavietnam.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Vegetarian eatery Sen Quan Chay 

has the feel of a Buddhist retreat with 

its no-footwear policy and Zen garden 

decorations. Offerings include lemongrass 

tofu clay pot. 171 Nguyen Thai Hoc, District 

1, tel: +84 (0)8 6278 2186 

TOP TABLES 

Situated in part of an old opium factory, 

Hoa Tuc dresses up street stall specialities like 

bun thit nuong (vermicelli noodles with grilled 

pork) in suit and tie. The young rice ice-cream 

is a must-try. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, tel: 

+84 (0)8 3825 1676 


The eccentric Up Café is inverted so it feels 

like you’re sipping your coffee while perched 

on the ceiling. Be brave and take a seat under 

the suspended – and upended – baby grand 

piano. 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan 

District, tel: +84 (0)8 3845 2155 

LATE & LIVELY 

Typically packed, Acoustic Bar is home to 

some of the best acoustic sets the city has to 

offer. Regular open-mic nights let you live out 

your rock-star fantasies. 6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, 

District 3, tel: +84 (0)8 3930 2239 

OVERNIGHT 

Nestled in the heart of a working-class 

Vietnamese neighbourhood, Ma Maison 

affords guests a glimpse into the everyday 

lives of area residents. This boutique inn has 

a French countryside feel and fantastic art 

displays. 656/52 Cach Mang Thang Tam, 

District 3, tel: +84 (0)8 3846 0263, www. 

mamaison.vn 


HANOI: CONNLA STOKES, PHOTOGRAPHY: AARON JOEL SANTOS, 

HAT YAI: ALEXANDRA WONG, PHOTOGRAPHY: LESTER LEDESMA, HO CHI MINH CITY: HENNO KOTZÉ

VIET NAM 

Phan Thiet - Mui Ne 

www.cocobeach.net

76 

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Hong Kong 

CHINA 


Tsing Ma Bridge 

INSIDER TIP 

Visitors to Hong Kong can now enjoy free 

Wi-Fi to help them browse the latest tourist 

information and download useful apps. Visit 

www.discoverhongkong.com or (for mobile 

phone users) m.discoverhongkong.com 

SHOP TALK 

Not only are the clothing, furniture, 

knickknacks, jewellery and accessories at 

Ecols eco-amorous, they’re also funky and 

avant-garde. 8/10 Gough St, Central, tel: +852 

3106 4918, www.ecols.com 

CHEAP EATS 

A pleasing combo of the picturesque and 

workaday, Mui Wo Cooked Food Centre sits 

right beside the harbour, while its dozen minirestaurants 

serve Chinese and international 

fare at reasonable prices from dawn until 

midnight. Ngan Kwong Wan Rd, Lantau 

TOP TABLES 

The Box combines king-of-the-world 

harbour views from atop the IFC Mall with 

an innovative menu of light bites – from 

caviar to pizza to Vietnamese spring rolls. 

Shop 4010, IFC Mall, Finance St, Central, 

tel: +852 2234 7738, www.jcgroup.hk 


Snorkelling in Hong Kong? Believe it or not, 

Hoi Ha Wan in Sai Kung Country Park has 

some of the best coral around. Hire a kayak 

and snorkel from Wan Hoi Rentals in Hoi Ha 

village. tel: +852 2328 2169 

LATE & LIVELY 

There are poetry nights and open-mic 

nights at cool speakeasy Joyce Is Not Here 

and whichever night it is, owner Joyce Baker 

will, in fact, be on hand. This laidback spot 

tends to hit its stride after midnight. 38-44 

Peel St, Central, tel: +852 2851 2999 

OVERNIGHT 

Celebrated designer Sir Terence Conran 

and architect Rocco Yim had a hand in the 

design of Hotel Icon, the latest fi ve-star to 

brighten up Tsim Sha Tsui. Its 262 rooms are 

beautifully decked out and there’s a showstopping 

“vertical garden” in the café. 17 

Science Museum Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui East, tel: 

+852 3400 1000, www.hotel-icon.com 

Jakarta 

INDONESIA 

Capital cityscape 

INSIDER TIP 

Need a SIM card? Corner shops, stalls and 

supermarkets sell standard SIM cards as well 

as vouchers for topping up phone credits. If 

you need Micro SIM cards, try ITCs or malls 

such as Ratu Plaza and Ambassador Mall. 

SHOP TALK 

There aren’t many genuine antiques at 

the Jalan Surabaya Antique Market, but 

there are plenty of vintage items and craft 

goods from across the archipelago. Don’t 

forget to bargain for the best prices. Jln 

Surabaya, Menteng, Central Jakarta 

CHEAP EATS 

Famous for decades, asinan betawi ibu 

yenny is a salad containing carrots, bean 

sprouts and Chinese cabbage, topped with 

generous quantities of peanuts and a crispy 

yellow cracker. 18 Jln Lamandau IV, Kebayoran 

Baru, South Jakarta, tel: +62 (0)21 846 5756 

TOP TABLES 

There’s a debate raging at the moment as to 

whether Saung Grenvil serves the best spicy 

crab in town. Why not try it for yourself at the 

eatery’s newest downtown location? 87 Jln 

Wahid Hasyim, Central Jakarta, tel: +62 (0)21 

392 0333, www.saung-grenvil.com 


A dozen or so art galleries showcasing the 

work of contemporary Indonesian artists have 

opened in the Jakarta Art District. Grand 

Indonesia Shopping Town, East Mall, Lower 

Ground Floor, 1 Jln MH Thamrin, Central 

Jakarta, www.grand-indonesia.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Nestled on a side street in Kemang is bar 

and restaurant hybrid Treehouse, which 

channels hipness while forgoing pretension. 

72 Jln Kemang I, South Jakarta, tel: +62 (0)21 

7170 5690, www.treehousekemang.com 

OVERNIGHT 

Located just 90 minutes from Jakarta 

in Karang Bolong, near Anyer, Club Bali 

Resorts Hawaii offers visitors the chance to 

see endangered Javan rhinos, go diving and 

fi shing, and embark on an unforgettable day 

trip to the Krakatau Volcano. tel: +62 (0)254 

650242, http://clubbalihawaii.com 

Krabi 

THAILAND 

Cliff jumping 

INSIDER TIP 

“Green season” weather in Krabi can 

be unpredictable. Even if it looks bright and 

sunny in the morning, pack a light raincoat and 

cover-up if you’re heading out to the islands – 

temperatures can drop suddenly. 

SHOP TALK 

Krabi’s only “department store”, Vogue 

is a bizarre bazaar where brand-name and 

cut-rate merchandise rubs shoulders. For the 

determined shopper, its four fl oors are home 

to some real bargains. 76/1 Maharat Rd, Krabi 

Town, tel: +66 (0)7 562 0926 

CHEAP EATS 

For the best street food in Ao Nang, head 

out from the beach (about 1km straight up the 

road past McDonald’s) in the late afternoon 

and into the village centre. 

TOP TABLES 

Lae Lay Grill (literally “See the Sea Grill”) 

serves up fi ve-star seafood and spectacular 

views – provided you go before sunset. The 

impressive service and reasonable prices 

make it the ideal choice for a special occasion. 

89 Moo 3, Ao Nang, tel: +66 (0)7 566 1588 


For those who’ve decided to rent a car or 

motorbike for a day, Ao Thalane is a great 

area to explore. This small fi shing village, 

just 30 minutes from Ao Nang, is home to 

a little-used beach where kayaks can be 

rented to visit the canyons nearby. 

LATE & LIVELY 

DD Seafood is the place to soak up the 

atmosphere near the weekend “walking 

street” market. This small bar-cum-restaurant 

overlooks the street’s outdoor stage, where 

bands often play. 52-54 Soi 10, Maharat Rd, 

Krabi Town, tel: +66 (0)8 7905 5804 

OVERNIGHT 

With its beachfront location, two oceanfront 

pools, spacious garden, spa and other luxury 

amenities, the Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort 

has all the ingredients for an unforgettable 

holiday. It’s also within easy reach of James 

Bond Island and Phi Phi Island. 155 Moo 2, 

Nong Thale, Muang, tel: +66 (0)75 628000, 

www.starwoodhotels.com 


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Kuala Lumpur 

MALAYSIA 

Night view of KLCC 

INSIDER TIP 

What began as a few sheds atop a hill 

overlooking the city, Lookout Point has 

become a spot for spectacular views. Visit one 

of the eateries here, then wander over to the 

observation tower. www.lookoutpoint.com.my 

SHOP TALK 

Created by a local designers' collective, 

The Jekyll & Hyde Project offers unique, 

design-centric products. S19, 2/F, Bangsar 

Shopping Centre, 285 Jln Maarof, Bukit 

Bandaraya, tel : +60 (0)3 2282 2364, www. 

thejekyllandhydeproject.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Faux French name aside, Société Café 

& Restaurant is KL’s best-kept secret when 

it comes to traditional Hainanese favourites. 

Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 

(0)3 2145 1812, www.starhillgallery.com 

TOP TABLES 

A haven of bars and eateries, Empire Hotel 

lets you embark on a culinary adventure at 

Kitchen’s Art Brasserie, sip cocktails at Sports 

Patio and go all out at Shout Lounge. Jln 

SS16/1, Subang Jaya, tel: +60 (0)3 5565 1388, 

www.empirehotel.com.my 


The Temple of Fine Arts is a Hindu 

dance and music academy but also hosts 

performances. Tickets are free but donations 

are welcome. 114-116 Jln Berhala, Brickfi elds, 

tel: +60 (0)3 2274 3709, www.tfa.org.my 

LATE & LIVELY 

Though Hakka Republic is a fi ne dining 

venue, sophisticates fl ock to its wine bar for 

its eclectic mix of live music shows. Come on a 

Saturday for Shanghai jazz. Lot 2.05, Level 2, 

Menara Hap Seng, J ln P Ramlee, tel: +60 (0)3 

2078 9908, www.hakkarepublic.com 

OVERNIGHT 

The 5 Elements Hotel is a boutique 

property inspired by ancient Wu Xing 

philosophy, whose aim is to balance the fi ve 

elements – water, wood, fi re, earth and metal. 

In hospitality terms, this means the hotel is a 

place to rest and rebalance the mind, body and 

soul. Lot 243, Jln Sultan, tel: +60 (0)3 2031 

6888, www.the5elementshotel.com 


Kuching 

MALAYSIA 

Immense 

mosque 

INSIDER TIP 

Terung assam, Sarawak’s best-kept 

secret, is cooked with fi sh or chicken as a 

tangy, zesty main dish. It grows on bushes and 

has great cultural signifi cance. Its fl ower is an 

important tattoo symbol for the Iban people. 

SHOP TALK 

Tattoos are integral to Sarawak’s traditions 

and culture. Each tattoo tells a personal life 

story, especially for the Iban people. It defi nes 

their life and history. Jeremy Lo of Monkey 

Tattoo Studio is one of the best traditional 

tattoo artists around. Let him tell your story. 

tel: +60 (0)19 888 0676 

CHEAP EATS 

When locals fl ock to a kopitiam (coffee 

shop), you know the food there is a surefi re 

hit. With Chop Kim Joo, locals not only fl ock, 

they queue for Kuching’s famous kolo mee 

(noodles with beef, barbecued pork and 

vegetables). Carpenter St, Opposite Life Café 

TOP TABLES 

Tucked away on Kuching’s oldest 

street is Junk, a restaurant in a converted 

shophouse that serves great steaks and 

fabulous desserts and is a showplace for 

antique paraphernalia. Wayang St, tel: +60 

(0)8 225 9450 


Bask in the serenity of the Borneo 

rainforest, 40 minutes from Kuching City. 

Camp Permai, at the tip of the Santubong 

Peninsula, is one of Sarawak’s premier 

holiday spots. tel: +60 (0)8 284 6 487, www. 

permairainforest.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Fancy a beer or something stronger but not 

the noise and crowds typical of pubs? Havana 

Café is quiet and laidback, making it ideal for 

chats over a drink. Wi-Fi access is available. 

Wayang St, tel: +60 (0)8 223 3722 

OVERNIGHT 

For a fi ve-star room at a three-star price, 

look no further than the centrally located 360 

Urban Resort Hotel. Its new 178-room Tower 

A, which offers eye-catching views, is the latest 

addition to the hotel. tel : +60 (0)82 484888, 

www.360Kuching.com 

Macau 

CHINA 

Illuminated cityscape 

INSIDER TIP 

The Macau International Music Festival 

is held every October and lasts for almost the 

entire month. Enjoy performances in genres 

ranging from opera and orchestral to chamber 

music and jazz. www.icm.gov.mo 

SHOP TALK 

Sim Chi Ngai Lotus & Pottery Special 

Shop is the place for porcelain. Most pieces 

were created by master craftspeople and each 

comes with a certifi cate of authenticity. 112B 

Rua de Estalagens, tel: +853 2835 8494 

CHEAP EATS 

The offerings at RDS Fried Chicken 

are king-sized, delicious and made with 

seasonings whose ingredients are a closely 

guarded secret. The homemade skin-on fries 

fl avoured with a mix of spices are irresistible. 

14A/B Rua de Sé, tel: +853 2833 8112 

TOP TABLES 

Chef Lo, who formerly worked for the 

Macau governor, now treats customers at 

Restaurante Platao to meals fi t for a VIP, such 

as baked duck rice, rack of lamb and more. 

G/F, 3 Travessa São Domingos, tel: +853 2833 

1818, www.plataomacau.com 


Take a break from the tables at the 

Grand Lisboa Macau Casino to check out 

the lobby display of million-dollar Chinese 

collectibles. It’s the ideal place to start 

planning how to spend your winnings. 

Avenida de Lisboa, tel: +853 2828 3838 

LATE & LIVELY 

Club Cubic is a chic nightspot with fancy 

cube-like features that’s known for its theme 

parties and innovative cocktails. Mingle with 

local celebrities, who are the club’s habitués. 

202 2/F AIA Tower, 251A-301 Avenida 

Comercial De Macau, tel: +853 2828 6696 

OVERNIGHT 

The Mandarin Oriental Macau’s seashore 

location makes it ideal for a tranquil escape. 

Restless? Downtown Macau is only minutes 

away. Enjoy stunning views over Nam Van Lake 

or Macau Bay from your bathtub. Avenida 

Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, tel: +853 8805 8888, 

www.mandarinoriental.com/macau 


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80 

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Manila 

PHILIPPINES 

Binondo 

Church 

INSIDER TIP 

Navigating Manila’s streets can be 

daunting, but the three train lines crossing 

major (and congested) thoroughfares are the 

most simple and effi cient way to travel. 

SHOP TALK 

At loft-style boutique House of Laurel, fi nd 

chic cocktail dresses and gowns, shirts for 

men, and even a maternity line and children’s 

wear from top Filipino fashion designer 

Rajo Laurel. 6013 Villena St at Mañalac St, 

Poblacion, Makati, tel: +63 (0)2 895 5688 

CHEAP EATS 

The BBQ-style eateries along Katipunan 

Avenue are popular with students and the 

after-work crowd. Countryside is the handsdown 

favourite, while Que Rico offers fantastic 

night views of the Marikina Valley. Katipunan 

Ave, Blue Ridge, Quezon City 

TOP TABLES 

The offerings at Van Gogh is Bipolar 

are reputed to trigger “happy hormones” 

in your brain. At the very least, the bold 

artwork and charming interiors at this cosy 

eatery will win you over. 154 Maginhawa St, 

Sikatuna Village, Quezon City 


Become acquainted with contemporary 

Filipino art at Ysobel Art Gallery, which 

displays the work of both local artists and 

fi gures of national prominence. 2/L Serendra, 

Bonifacio High St, Bonifacio Global City, 

Taguig, tel: +63 (0)928 850 7117 

LATE & LIVELY 

Party like the Jetsons in futuristic Japanese 

joint Robot. Hang out by the glowing bar, peek 

into the high-tech open kitchen and stay for 

the exciting Japanese dishes. 7921 Makati Ave, 

Makati, tel: +63 (0)2 812 8800 

OVERNIGHT 

Beyond its spacious serviced apartments 

– fully-equipped for residential living – the 

Somerset Salcedo Makati has the added 

appeal of being within walking distance of 

restaurants, galleries, coffee shops and the 

Salcedo Park Weekend Market. HV Dela Costa 

St at LP Leviste St, Salcedo Village, Makati, tel: 

+63 (0)2 888 6668 


Penang 

MALAYSIA 

Beachside paradise 

INSIDER TIP 

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival takes 

place at Penang’s Taoist temples from 

27 September to 5 October. It’s believed the 

spirits of the nine gods return to Earth during 

this time, an occasion that’s marked with 

activities like fi rewalking and a gala parade. 

SHOP TALK 

Entrepôt at Hotel Penaga sells 

unique gifts from the region along 

with designer interior goods. Cnr of 

Jln Hutton and Lebuh Clarke, George 

Town, tel: +60 (0)4 261 1891, www. 

hotelpenaga.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Char kway teow (fried noodles, chilli paste, 

prawns and cockles) is an iconic Penang dish. 

It’s widely available at restaurants around town 

but visit the hawker stall in front of Café Heng 

Huat to sample one of the tastiest versions. 

108 Lorong Selamat, George Town 

TOP TABLES 

Delicious serves Malaysian, Asian and 

Western comfort food in a stylish locale with 

sea views. This Straits Quay outlet is part of 

a growing lifestyle destination. G/F, Straits 

Quay, Tanjung Tokong, tel: +60 (0)4 899 8555, 

www.delicious.com.my 


Gallery 29 adjoins China Tiger, which is 

available for homestays, and is the outlet for 

the creations of Malaysian artist Rebecca 

Duckett and others. 29 China St, George Town, 

tel: +60 (0)4 264 3580, www.chinatiger.info 

LATE & LIVELY 

The Irish are said to love a good time and 

Finnegan’s pub is as Irish as they come. Enjoy 

draught Guinness, Kilkenny and other local 

and international beers along with pub grub, 

music and frequent promotions. 3E-G-1 Straits 

Quay, Tanjung Tokong, tel: +60 (0)4 899 2788, 

www.fi nneganspubs.com 

OVERNIGHT 

MoonTree 47 is all about fl ashpacker 

chic. It’s home to six rooms, three with airconditioning 

and attached bathrooms. Below 

is a smart ca fé and gallery. 47 Muntri St, 

George Town, tel: +60 (0)4 264 4021 

Perth 

Cappuccino 

strip at Fremantle 

INSIDER TIP 

Travel around central Perth for nothing. 

The Free Transit Zone (FTZ) includes public 

transport (as well as CAT buses) in the CBD and 

covers trips to Northbridge, Kings Park and the 

WACA. www.transperth.wa.gov.au 

SHOP TALK 

Fremantle Markets are the oldest and best 

in town, located in a wonderful old heritage 

building. More than 150 stalls are open every 

Friday, Saturday, Sunday and holiday Monday. 

74 South Tce, Fremantle, tel: +61 (0)8 9335 

2515, www.fremantlemarkets.com.au 

CHEAP EATS 

The Capri is a simple, old-fashioned 

Italian eatery that’s been run by the same 

family for 57 years. No frills, just good 

honest grub at good honest prices – with 

free bread – and it’s BYO. 21 South Tce, 

Fremantle, tel: +61 (0)8 9335 1399 

TOP TABLES 

Friends Restaurant overlooks the Swan 

River and serves some of the best food in Perth. 

Its wine list has been called Australia’s best. 

20 Terrace Rd, tel: +61 (0)8 9221 0885, www. 

friendsrestaurant.com.au 


Until November, humpback whales 

cruise and cavort in the waters off Perth 

as they migrate back to Antarctica. Local 

whale-watching cruises have a good record 

of sightings. tel: +61 (0)8 9325 1191, www. 

oceaniccruises.com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

Must Winebar is a fun spot that also houses 

a bistro serving some of the best food in WA. 

The bar interior is sleek and sophisticated – 

and its wines are classy, too, with more than 

20 available by the glass along with beers and 

cocktails. 519 Beaufort St, Highgate, tel: +61 

(0)8 9328 8255, www.must.com.au 

OVERNIGHT 

Ranked among the UK Sunday Times’ 

World’s 100 Best Hotels, Eight Nicholson is a 

stylish and elegant boutique bed and breakfast 

on a quiet street in trendy Subiaco, opposite 

Kings Park. 8 Nicholson Rd, Subiaco, tel: +61 

(0)8 9382 1881, www.8nicholson.com.au 


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82 

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Phuket 

THAILAND 

Island cruise 

INSIDER TIP 

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival, held 

from 27 September to 5 October at six Chinese 

Buddhist temples, sees Ma Song devotees pay 

homage to the nine emperor gods by piercing 

themselves with everything from acupuncture 

needles to swordfi sh. tel: +66 (0)76 212213 

SHOP TALK 

Some of the best locally made, Belgianstyle 

chocolate in Thailand is available for 

purchase at Duc de Praslin, which also serves 

wonderful chili hot chocolate by the pot. 

Central Festival Phuket, Vichitsongkram Rd, 

tel: +66 (0)76 248090, www.gallothai.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Not only does Natural Restaurant serve a 

near-exhaustive range of Thai and international 

dishes, everything is MSG free and there’s 

an extensive range of vegetarian options. Soi 

Phutorn, Phuket Town, tel: +66 (0)76 224287, 

www.naturalrestaurantphuket.com 

TOP TABLES 

Dine in style at IndoChine Waterfront, 

a glass-walled restaurant offering views of 

Patong Bay and serving a delectable range of 

organic dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia and 

Laos. Prabaramee Rd, tel: +66 (0)81 895 1375, 

http://indochine-group.com 


The newly opened Phuket Mining 

Museum, set in a refurbished Sino- 

Portuguese-style tin baron’s mansion, 

offers a window into the industry that 

fi rst put Phuket on the map. Kathu, 

tel: +66 (0)76 322140 

LATE & LIVELY 

Feast on fabulous Spanish fi nger food and 

then get ready to dance at TapasTree, a lively 

nightspot with live bands and DJs playing 

everything from disco and ’80s club classics to 

electro. Laguna Rd, tel: +66 (0)85 475 3430 

OVERNIGHT 

Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket is reminiscent 

of history’s grand hotels with its elegant design 

and top-notch service. Splash out and stay in 

a pool villa, and you can walk from your bed to 

the beach. 390 Srisoontorn Rd, Cherngtalay, 

tel: +66 (0)76 362999, www. Dusit.com 


Shenzhen 

CHINA 

Night view of city 

INSIDER TIP 

Nanao Beach is Shenzhen’s least-crowded 

strip of sand, boasting a tranquil ambience 

even while hosting seaside barbecues, boating, 

fi shing and more. 

SHOP TALK 

Stars Plaza Shopping Centre is the 

year-round home of bargains on everything 

from clothing, electronic goods and home 

appliances to food and souvenirs. 38 Hongli 

Rd, tel: +86 (0)755 8374 8073 

CHEAP EATS 

Don’t expect chandeliers and white 

tablecloths at Chendu Niuhuangmiao 

Noodles, just authentic Sichuan fl avoured 

noodles that have locals queuing. Go for the 

thick and fi lling beef noodle soup. Booth 6, 1/F, 

Jiangyuan Bldg, 1 Jiangtian Dong Rd, tel: +86 

(0)755 8306 9308 

TOP TABLES 

Jindaoyuan Clay Pot Congee lets 

customers pick their ingredients. Seafood 

fan? Try the roe crab and prawn congee. 

Still hungry? Try the barbecued eggplant 

and home-style stir-fries. 99 Leyuan Rd, 

tel: +86 (0)755 2515 7223 5036 


More than 200 years old, Dawan Shijia – a 

22,680m2 Hakka-style housing area – was 

once home to more than 100 households made 

up of more than fi ve generations of the same 

family. It’s a great place to experience Hakka 

culture, architecture, history and cuisine. 

Dawan Village, Pingshan 

LATE & LIVELY 

Live the high life at Leaves Rooftop 

Garden Bar at the Ritz-Carlton, which offers 

panoramic views of the city and hosts top DJs 

on weekends. The bar’s innovative cocktails 

and handmade tapas are a bonus. 116 Fuhua 

San Rd, tel: +86 (0)755 2222 2222 

OVERNIGHT 

Yougan Bay Resort, a seaside property 

with wooden villas, boasts a peaceful setting, a 

beautiful beach and plenty of fun on the water, 

from jet-skiing and rafting to fi shing and diving. 

Youganwan, Nanao Town, Longgang, tel: +86 

(0)755 8440 0838 

Singapore 

Skyline at night 

INSIDER TIP 

Skip the cable car or bus to Mount Faber. 

Instead, exit HarbourFront MRT Station and 

hike up the Marang Trail, which connects 

to Faber Walk and leads to The Jewel Box 

restaurant hub at the summit. 

SHOP TALK 

Located on Kampong Glam’s trendy Haji 

Lane, Salad sells mostly black-and-white 

clothes, bags, and home and fashion 

accessories from places like Hong Kong, 

South Korea, Vietnam and Cambodia. 

25/27 Haji Ln, tel: +65 6299 5805 

CHEAP EATS 

New York-style bakery PiqueNique serves a 

delicious range of cheesecakes, cupcakes and 

colourful whoopie pies. Enjoy hamburgers and 

mac and cheese, too. B1-01/02 Takashimaya, 

Ngee Ann City Tower A, 391A Orchard Rd, tel: 

+65 6238 6705 

TOP TABLES 

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon – the 

legendary's chef's new outpost here – has 

fi nally opened its doors. Sit at the sleek 

counters and watch chefs prepare your tasting 

menu. Resorts World Sentosa, Level 1, Hotel 

Michael, Sentosa, tel: +65 6577 7888 


The 2011 Formula 1 SingTel Singapore 

Grand Prix takes place from 24 to 26 

September. Beyond the race, there are 

heaps of parties and performances by top 

international acts. www.singaporegp.sg 

LATE & LIVELY 

The Azzura at Siloso Beach is home to 

Harem, Sentosa’s fi rst nightclub, a coffeecocktail 

bar, al fresco bistro and a wide range 

of watersports . Siloso Beach, tel: +65 6270 

8003, www.azzura.sg 

OVERNIGHT 

Housed in a heritage building, The Saff is 

a boutique hotel located in a charming part 

of Chinatown. Eye-catching and exotic design 

elements are woven into the architecture of 

this new hotel. There are plenty of restaurants, 

bars and cafés in the area so you’ll never be 

hungry or bored. 55 Keong Saik Rd, tel: +65 

6221 8388, www.thesaffhotel.com 


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84 

touchdown 

Taipei 

TAIPEI 

View of the riverside 

INSIDER TIP 

Taiwan has the world’s densest distribution 

of convenience stores – exceeding even 

Japan. There are more than 10,000 such 

stores in Taiwan and the number is growing. 

SHOP TALK 

There’s no better place to shop for clothes 

than Wufenpu district, located at Houshanpi 

Station. With hundreds of small boutiques, 

Taiwan’s biggest wholesale garment market 

has just about every item imaginable and at 

very low prices. Be prepared to bargain. 

CHEAP EATS 

Yakitori restaurant Hot Place serves 

the city’s best grilled meat on skewers. 

Must-tries include its grilled wild rice 

stems, whose texture is similar to bamboo 

shoots but which taste fresher and 

sweeter. 138-2 Shimin Rd, Sec 4 

TOP TABLES 

Yu Shan Ge rivals the best Japanese 

kaiseki (multi-course dinner) spots but with 

one difference: it’s a vegetarian eatery. That 

said, even meat lovers will be charmed by the 

mushroom steak. 14 Beiping E Rd, tel: +886 

(0)2 2395 5155, www.yu-shan-ge.com.tw 


October is the best time to hike in 

Yangmingshan National Park. Start at 

Hsiaoyukeng and head for the gas fumaroles, 

then hike up Mount Chihsing, Taipei’s highest 

peak. The views are spectacular. tel: +886 (0)2 

2861 3601, www.ymsnp.gov.tw 

LATE & LIVELY 

Underworld is one of the oldest and edgiest 

live music venues in Taipei and plays host to 

local alternative and indie-rock bands. Located 

in a college area, it’s popular with the cool kids. 

45 Shida Rd, tel: +886 (0)2 2369 0103 

OVERNIGHT 

Soft launched already and with its offi cial 

opening set for October, Home Hotel 

prides itself on being a truly made-in-Taiwan 

accommodation. Every visitor is offered an 

orientation session on Taiwan's culture and 

attractions and can attend weekly culture 

workshops. 90 Songren Rd, tel: +886 (0)2 

8789 0111, www.homehotel.com.tw 



INDIA 

Napier Museum 

INSIDER TIP 

For the scientifi cally inclined, Trivandrum 

is home to India’s most advanced science 

museum and planetarium, where visitors can 

learn all things astronomical. PMG Junction 

SHOP TALK 

Ethnic Weaves is a quaint boutique 

that showcases an eye-popping array of 

colourful Indian fabrics and ethnic wear 

in a unique showroom. The best part 

is the low prices. 3/1013 Muttada Rd, 

Paruthippara, tel: +91 (0)47 1307 5011 

Tiruchirappalli 

INDIA 

Srirangam Temple 

INSIDER TIP 

Experience the colour and ambience of 

bustling Gandhi Market in the centre of town, 

home to fresh produce, aromatic spices and 

fresh-cut fl owers. 

SHOP TALK 

Kalamandir Arts and Crafts boasts a 

large selection of beautiful local handicrafts 

like Tanjore paintings decorated with gold 

and precious stones, intricate woodcarvings, 

brassware fi gures and terra cotta statues. 

C-82, NEE, Fort Station Rd, Shastri Rd, 

Thillainagar, tel: +91 (0)431 654 7376 

CHEAP EATS 

Biryani, a delightful combination of rice, 

spices and meat or fi sh, is a quintessential 

Kerala treat. The Biriyani Hut dishes out a 

diverse set of options, yet still remains easy 

on the wallet. Opp HDFC Bank, Ambalamukku, 

tel: +91 (0)47 1329 6242 

TOP TABLES 

Orion, the multi-cuisine restaurant at the 

four-star Residency Towers, lets diners make 

selections from a menu featuring Indian, 

continental and Chinese delicacies or opt 

for the sumptuous lunch and dinner buffet. 

Press Rd, tel: +91 (0)47 1233 1661, www. 

residencytower.com 


The fi rst week of September marks Kerala’s 

annual festival, Onam, when the entire city 

is decked out in colourful lights and a host of 

cultural events is held. A gala pageant marks 

the end of the festivities. 

LATE & LIVELY 

The Leela Kempinski’s signature Sky 

Bar, with its terrace overlooking the surf, is 

a scintillating spot to enjoy a round or two 

of cocktails and some fusion food – to the 

accompaniment of live music. Kovalam, tel: 

+91 (0)47 1305 1234, www.vivantabytaj.com 

OVERNIGHT 

PUTINJA 

ISABEL TIRUCHIRAPPALLI: KRISHNAN, VIJI THIRUVANANTHAPURAM: MA, SCARLET TAIPEI: 

CHEAP EATS 

Located behind Hotel Mathura near the 

central bus depot, Sree Krishnas Garden 

Restaurant features an oasis-like outdoor 

terrace. Enjoy the delicious South Indian lunch 

buffet here at an unbeatable price. 1 Rockins 

Rd, Cantonment, tel: +91 (0)431 241 4737, 

www.hotelmathura.com 


The Grand Anicut Dam at Kallanai, just 

24km from Trichy, was built in the 2nd century, 

making it one of the world’s oldest dams and 

one of India’s greatest feats of engineering. 

LATE & LIVELY 

With the opening of the bar at the Grand 

Gardenia Hotel, the city can boast of another 

nightspot where travellers can kick back 

with a cocktail in elegant surrounds. 22-25 

Mannarpuram Junction, tel: +91 (0)431 404 

5000, www.grandgardenia.com 

The Travancore Heritage is a seaside 

resort where guests are treated to the one-ofa-kind 

experience of staying in a reconstructed 

traditional Kerala-style house, albeit one with 

all the amenities of a fi rst-class hotel. Chowara 

PO, Kovalam, tel: +91 (0)47 1226 7828, www. 

thetravancoreheritage.com OVERNIGHT 

TOP TABLES 

Thendral is a newly opened rooftop 

restaurant whose dinner buffet features 

Indian specialities and Chinese and 

continental favourites. Ramyas Hotel, 

13-D/2, Williams Rd, Cantonment, tel: +91 

(0)431 400 0400, www.ramyas.com 

The rooms at the Breeze Residency are 

comfy, spacious and tastefully furnished. 

The hotel’s convenient location, two 

restaurants and pool make it a smart choice 

for business travellers and holidaymakers. 

3/14 McDonald’s Rd, tel: +91 (0)431 404 5333, 

www.breezeresidency.com 


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86 

touchdown ... AUSTRALIA 

Brisbane Melbourne 

Brisbane Whale 

Watching with Eye-Spy 

INSIDER TIP 

The January fl oods took their toll on 

Brisbane’s iconic Southbank, but the 

Parkland’s lagoon is all fi xed and is once again 

the top spot to enjoy an inner-city swim. 

SHOP TALK 

Jet Black Cat Music began life as a market 

stall but grew into a fully-fl edged shop, one with 

just the right amount of grunge. Open most 

days, unless there’s a music festival on. 72A 

Vulture St, West End, tel: +61 (0)419 571 299 

CHEAP EATS 

Pho Hoang Gia serves up bargain-priced 

meals. The large serving of mi bo kho (beef 

stew) will test the limits of your stomach, not 

your spending power. 146-148 Wickham St, 

Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3252 8808 

TOP TABLES 

Alastair McLeod is a big name on the 

Australian culinary scene and his Tank 

Restaurant was recently one of only three 

Queensland restaurants to feature in a national 

newspaper’s best restaurants list. Others may 

feel slighted, but Tank defi nitely deserved its 

place. 31 Tank St, tel: +61 (0)7 3003 1993 


Oktoberfest is one of the most 

authentic – and enjoyable – beer fests this 

side of the Rhine. It runs over the weekends 

of 7–9 and 14–16 October at the RNA 

Showgrounds. Gregory Terrace, Fortitude 

Valley, www.oktoberfestbrisbane.com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

Melbourne is renowned for its funky little 

bars and upon entering Kerbside, you could be 

forgiven for thinking you’ve been transported 

to Victoria’s capital. With an award-winning 

barman mixing the cocktails, satisfaction is 

assured. Constance St, Fortitude Valley, tel: 

+61 (0)7 3252 9833, www.kerbside.com.au 

OVERNIGHT 

It doesn’t get any more central than just 

above Central Station, which is where you’ll 

fi nd the Sofi tel Brisbane. The Sofi tel brand 

is synonymous with luxury so you know you 

won’t be disappointed with a stay here. 249 

Turbot St, tel: +61 (0)7 3835 3535, www. 

sofi telbrisbane.com.au 


Siglo Bar on 

Spring Street 

INSIDER TIP 

Melbourne goes horse crazy in October so 

head to either the Caulfi eld, Moonee Valley or 

Flemington tracks to catch some of the world’s 

most prestigious races. 

SHOP TALK 

Spread over four levels, Collingwood’s 

iconic Lost and Found Market is home to 

everything from vintage clothes and furniture 

to books, art and a great music collection. 12 

Smith St, Collingwood, tel: +61 (0)3 9419 4477, 

www.lostandfoundmarket.com.au 

CHEAP EATS 

The shopfront at Gami says it all: “chicken 

and beer”. Ideal for groups, this eatery’s 

piled-high plates of Korean-style fried chicken 

are the ideal accompaniment to a cheap jug of 

beer. 100 Little Lonsdale St, tel: +61 (0)3 9671 

3232, www.gamichicken.com.au. 

TOP TABLES 

Byblos is a jewel. Featuring Lebanese 

dishes like makanek (spiced sausages), 

the Mezza Banquets (multi-course feasts) 

make for a great introduction to the menu. 

G12 World Trade Centre, tel: +61 (0)3 9614 

6400, www.byblosbar.com.au 


Melbourne’s fi nest restaurants come 

together from 15–18 September to celebrate 

gourmet produce at the Taste of Melbourne 

festival. Become involved in tutorials and 

tastings. www.tasteofmelbourne.com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

With live music most nights, craft beer and 

a menu rife with sustainable meals, Grumpy’s 

Green has enough to satisfy even the most 

discerning diner. Take advantage of the hidden 

courtyard out the back when the sun starts to 

shine. 125 Smith St, Fitzroy, tel: +61 (0)3 9416 

1944, www.grumpysgreen.com 

OVERNIGHT 

For those who want to be minutes from 

the CBD but ensconced in relaxed surrounds, 

the Park Hyatt is for you. A boutique option 

next to the Fitzroy Gardens, it boasts all the 

luxuries you’d expect of the Hyatt brand. 1 

Parliament Square, tel: +61 (0)3 9224 1234, 

www.melbourne.park.hyatt.com 

Sydney 

Sydney Opera House 

INSIDER TIP 

Kicking off on 1 October, the month-long 

Crave Sydney Food Festival features 

hundreds of activities and events, including 

noodle markets at Hyde Park, laneway dinners 

and breakfast on the Harbour Bridge. 

SHOP TALK 

Check out the Pop Up Project at The 

Rocks, where you’ll fi nd a colourful mix 

of art, music and fashion from Sydney’s 

hottest up-and-coming creative talent. 

47-85 George St, tel: +61 (0)401 713 998, 

www.therockspopup.tumblr.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Take a taste of all things American at 

The Dip, a popular diner that dishes out an 

irresistible line-up of hot dogs, nachos and 

pulled-pork sandwiches. 55 Liverpool St, tel: 

+61 (0)2 9238 8792, www.thedip.com.au 

TOP TABLES 

A leading fi xture of the Sydney dining 

scene, Gastro Park serves up eminently 

inventive dishes. Signature creations include a 

snapper with crisp fried scales, liquid pumpkin 

gnocchi and a “nitro” Pavlova. 5-9 Roslyn St, 

Potts Point, tel: +61 (0)2 8068 1017, www. 

gastropark.com.au 


Grab your iPod and enjoy a guided audio 

tour of historic Centennial Park. Follow the 

trails and hear stories about its fascinating 

past that you won’t fi nd in history books. Walks 

begin at the Centennial Park Café. Parkes Dr, 

Woollahra, www.walkingtours.com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

Good things come in small packages and 

Stitch is no exception. Decked out in vintage 

furniture, sewing machines and haberdashery, 

this underground speakeasy sells mean 

cocktails, many of them made with unusual 

ingredients. 61 York St, www.stitchbar.com 

OVERNIGHT 

As if the central location isn’t enough, the 

Hilton Sydney offers special relaxation rooms 

where you can unwind in your very own hydro 

spa bath – it’s the perfect way to wrap up a 

long day. 488 George St, tel: +61 (0)2 9266 

2000, www.hiltonsydney.com.au 

BRISBANE: MATT KIRKEGAARD, MELBOURNE: CHRIS CANTY, PHOTOGRAPHY: BEN KING, SYDNEY: ZINA ZHANG

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Back to 

Bangalore 

In October, Tiger Airways resumes fl ights to the 

state capital of Karnataka in Southern India 

iger Airways has 

announced the re-launch of 

T its direct service between 

Singapore and Bangalore 

(Bengaluru) from 31 October. 

The service, which begins with 

four fl ights a week – on Mondays, 

Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays 

– makes Bangalore Tiger Airways’ 

fourth destination in India, joining 

Chennai, Thiruvananthapuram and 

Tiruchirappalli. 

Bangalore is the state capital of 

Karnataka and is widely regarded as 

India’s “Silicon Valley”. 

“Bangalore is one of Asia’s fastestgrowing 

cosmopolitan cities and is 

India’s third most populous city. Given 

its potential as a destination that 

attracts both business travel and leisure, 

we are pleased to resume our services 

to this city,” Tiger Airways Singapore 

Managing Director Stewart Adams says. 

“Travellers from Singapore looking to 

explore India’s Garden City can now look 

forward to great value fares on Tiger 

Airways.” 

Bengaluru International Airport 

Managing Director GV Sanjay Reddy 

says he is pleased to welcome Tiger 

Airways back to the hub. 

“This route opens cost-effective 

opportunities for our passengers 

travelling between India’s information 

technology capital and Singapore,” 

he says. “It will also boost travel and 

tourism, with benefi ts that will extend 

beyond Karnataka to neighbouring 

states as well. 

“It has been a pleasure to transact 

with Tiger Airways in the past and we 

look forward to our association with the 

airline growing further in the future.” 

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TIGER NEWS 

Bangalore Palace was 

built to resemble 

Windsor Castle 

Passenger Numbers 

See Major Increase 

Tiger Airways Asia and Australia drew 

6.2 million passengers between July 

last year and June this year – an 18% 

increase on the previous 12 months. 

For the month of June, Tiger Airways 

carried 555,000 passengers – a 9% 

increase compared with the same month 

a year earlier. Average load factors 

across Australia and Asia for the month 

were 86%. 

“During the month of June, growth in 

passenger numbers remained robust 

for our services to and from Singapore,” 

Tiger Airways Holdings Acting Chief 

Executive Offi cer Chin Yau Seng says. 

“However, Tiger Airways Australia’s 

passenger numbers were impacted by 

the signifi cant disruption to Australian 

domestic air travel due to volcanic ash 

from Chile’s volcano. 

“From September 2011, Tiger Airways 

Singapore will introduce services 

between Singapore and Cebu and 

resume fl ights to Bangalore.” 


89

90 

TIGER NEWS 

Tiger Airways has launched a direct 

service between Singapore and Cebu, 

starting on 6 September. 

Regarded as the “Queen of the 

South” Cebu is the oldest city in the 

Philippines. With its rich history, 

multifaceted culture and captivating 

natural scenery, it has emerged as a 

popular travel destination. 

Cebu is Tiger’s second destination 

in the Philippines after Manila, where it 

fl ies to both Ninoy Aquino International 

Airport and Clark International Airport. 

Flights to Clark are sold through www. 

tigerairways.com but are operated by 

Tiger’s partner airline, Seair. 

“We are excited to introduce Cebu 

as our newest travel destination,” Tiger 

Airways Singapore Managing Director 

Stewart Adams says. 


Osmena Circle in Cebu City 

Cebu, Here We Come! 

“Cebu is the number one tourist 

destination in the Philippines and 

it holds a strong appeal for many 

travellers looking to escape to a 

tropical paradise. 

“As Singapore’s leading low-cost 

carrier, Tiger Airways consistently 

provides the lowest airfares, giving 

consumers the opportunity to take 

breaks when they need them, at a 

fraction of the cost that they were 

previously used to.” 

Tickets to Cebu are on sale now 

from S$55 (A$42) one-way, Singapore 

to Cebu. 

Tiger will launch its Cebu route with 

four fl ights a week – on Tuesdays, 

Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, 

and this will increase to a daily service 

in October. 

Tiger Airways is Top 

Dog in Asia Pacifi c 

Tiger Airways has emerged as the leading 

airline in Asia and Australia and the 

world’s fi fth leading airline for ancillary 

revenues for the second year running, 

according to a worldwide study. 

The study, conducted by IdeaWorks 

– a consultancy focused on airline 

ancillary revenues – and Armadus, a 

global technology provider for the travel 

industry, researched fi nancial fi lings 

made by 104 airlines worldwide. Among 

the top 10 carriers, Tiger Airways is the 

most successful in Asia Pacifi c. 

“We are delighted to once again be 

the most successful airline for ancillary 

revenues in Asia and Australia. We 

proved last year that smaller and newer 

players could win on the world stage by 

giving customers what they want, and 

this year we are proud to again cement 

our place among the world’s best,” Tiger 

Airways Holdings CEO Tony Davis says. 

“Tiger’s low-fare model allows us to 

truly customise our offerings, and this 

allows our passengers to only pay for 

the services which they value. Ancillary 

revenues contribute to approximately 

20% of our total revenue stream, so the 

services we offer our passengers are 

essential to our success. 

“Our new products such as Stripes, 

boardmefi rst, switchmyfl ight and web 

check-in have been well received by our 

customers, contributing to our ancillary 

revenue growth of 8.8% to S$21 (A$16) 

per passenger last year. We will continue 

to innovate to develop value-added 

services that benefi t our clients.” 

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Tiger Airways Australia has announced a 

sponsorship association with the Wests 

Tigers National Rugby League (NRL) 

team for the entire 2011 football season. 

Vanessa Regan, Tiger Airways 

Australia Head of Marketing and 

Communications, says it’s an important 

association for the airline, which worked 

with the NRL team when it offi cially 

launched its Sydney fl ights in July 2009. 

“Back then, members of the Wests 

Tigers hauled a 70-tonne Tiger Airways 

A320 out of the hangar at Melbourne 

Airport ahead of our inaugural Sydney 

Tiger Airways Australia has appointed 

airline industry veteran Captain Chris 

Manning to the role of Safety Advisor. 

Captain Manning will work directly 

with new CEO Tony Davis to ensure that 

the airline is applying the highest levels 

of operational safety management 

across the company. Captain Manning, 

who has spent more than 40 years 

in the aviation industry, is a Fellow of 

the Royal Aeronautical Society and a 

Wests Tigers players haul 

out an A320 aircraft 

Tiger Airways, Wests Tigers Renew Ties 

fl ight,” she says. “It’s great to return to 

this association with such a prominent 

Sydney-based team, which is making 

headway on the NRL ladder. 

“There are obvious Tiger ‘challenger 

brand’ synergies, but the association 

also makes sense given the number of 

fl ights we have in and out of Sydney on a 

daily basis, making Sydney a virtual hub 

for Tiger Airways.” 

Brett Clarke, Wests Tigers General 

Manager, Sales and Marketing, says the 

team is “delighted” to welcome Tiger 

Airways back into the sponsorship fold. 

Aviation Vet Chosen to Oversee Safety 

former president of the Australian and 

International Pilots Association. 

He began his career with Qantas in 

1970 and his most recent role was as 

Chief Pilot and Group General Manager 

of Flight Operations with Qantas. 

“Chris is one of the most experienced 

pilots and operational advisors in 

Australia and we’re lucky to have him 

working with our business,” Tiger 

Airways Australia CEO Tony Davis says. 

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the 

Avis 

counter 

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94 

TIGER TIPS 

Do’s & Don’ts 

We all dread that inconsiderate 

passenger who does things to make 

a fl ight unpleasant for everyone else. 

Here are fi ve things to consider when 

on a Tiger Airways fl ight: 

BE ON TIME 

1 Tiger Airways recommends 

passengers check in two hours 

prior to the scheduled departure time. If 

you’re on time, we can be on time! 

DON’T SMOKE 

2 Smoking harms your health. 

Moreover, smokers who light 

up in the lavatories endanger the aircraft 

and fellow passengers. Tiger Airways 

enforces a strict no-smoking policy – so 

don’t go overboard by lighting up! 

LIMIT YOUR LIQUIDS 

3 You can carry up to a litre of 

fl uids in your carry-on luggage. 

Containers are limited to 100ml. All 

liquids must be in a clear, resealable 

plastic bag. One bag per person. 

BELT UP 

4 Here’s a question for those 

passengers who unbuckle their 

seat belts and stand up the instant the 

plane lands: 

Where do you think you’re going? 

There is a good reason why Tiger Airways 

asks everyone to remain seated – the 

plane is still moving and passengers who 

are not safely belted in risk injuries to 

themselves and others. Besides, while 

the plane is still taxiing, you won’t be 

going anywhere quick – we promise. 

Don’t worry, customs will wait for you. 

DON’T BRING YOUR OWN 

5 FOOD 

Particularly if it’s chicken rice, 

chilli or durian puffs, whose pungent 

smells may remain in our aircraft and 

offend other passengers. Tiger Airways 

does not allow passengers to bring food 

onboard. Instead, we offer a wide range 

of snacks and drinks at very reasonable 

prices. 


Your Message 

- Onboard and Online 

Four hours on the plane x 180 passengers: now that’s what we call a captive 

audience! With Tiger Airways fl ying to a whole network of destinations in this 

region, ambient advertising on our aircraft is a great opportunity to speak to 

an international audience. Imagine your logo on the backs of seats, tray tables 

or on overhead bins. If this fl ies with you, contact Jacqueline Ho (tel: +65 6302 

2461 or 1 800 202 901) to fi nd out how to reach more customers. 

DVT: How To Avoid It 

A deep-vein thrombosis (DVT) is a 

blood clot that develops in a deep 

vein, usually in the lower leg. DVT is a 

serious problem that can cause pain 

and lead to serious complications if 

a large clot partially or totally blocks 

blood fl ow. The incidence of DVT due 

to long fl ights is not high, but it can 

be reduced even further by doing the 

following: 

1 Exercise your legs every half hour. 

Bend and straighten your legs to keep 

the blood circulating. Walk up and down 

the aisle. 

2 Keep hydrated by drinking water (at 

least one glass an hour) rather than 

alcohol and caffeinated drinks. 

3 Exercise your chest and upper 

body frequently. Do deep-breathing 

exercises. 

4 Wear loose-fi tting clothing. 

5 Exercise the muscles of your lower 

legs while sitting. Pull your toes 

towards your knees and then relax, or 

press the balls of your feet down while 

raising your heels. 

6 Avoid sleeping pills because they 

cause you to be immobile for a long 

period. If you develop swelling or 

pain in your leg, or have breathing 

problems after travelling, you should 

seek medical advice urgently.

The Jungle Tandoor Restaurant 

102 Serangoon Road 

Singapore 218007 

jungleletandoor@gmail.com 

Tel:62990400

96 

snapshot 


On the Fringe 

Promoting independent acts in Victoria, the 

annual Melbourne Fringe Festival showcases 

groundbreaking and daring performances 

across all art forms. From comedy to cabaret, 

Melbourne Fringe presents more than 230 free 

and ticketed events in more than 100 venues 

between 21 September and 9 October. 

Melbourne, www.melbournefrindge.com.au 

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM VICTORIA

MK1196 

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Go to the Avis counter on arrival 

Subject to vehicle availability. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other coupon or promotion. $20 off and Qantas Frequent Flyer points are not available on package tour, travel industry or 

government rates.*Membership and points are subject to the terms and conditions of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program. A joining fee may apply. For more information about earning points on car 

hire see qantas.com.au

EDITORIAL 

Editor Christine Retschlag 

Art Director Marlon Espino 

Senior Sub-Editor Ross Wallace 

Touchdown Editor Mary Weaver 

Photo Editor Nicola McCoy 

Deputy Design Director (Singapore) 

Terence Goh 

Design Director (Singapore) 

Peter Stephens 

Editorial Director (Singapore) 

Liz Weselby 

Executive Creative Director 

Michael Keating 

ADVERTISING 

Group Publisher Shirley D’Souza 

Infl ight Media Specialists Anjumoni 

Konwer, Vikhram Radhakrishnan, 

Andreas Wibowo & May Aung 

Production Managers Kennis Yuen & 

Serene Wong 

Managing Director Gerry Ricketts 

Chief Financial Offi cer Hugh Godsal 

CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke 

Publishing Director Simon Leslie 

Tiger Tales is published for 

Tiger Airways by INK, 

MICA (P) 070/07/2011 

CONTACT INK: 

89 Neil Road #03-01, Singapore 088849 

Tel: +65 6324 2386 

Advertising: 

tiger.ads@ink-global.com 

Editorial: 

tiger.ed@ink-global.com 

Website: www.tigertales.sg 

TIGER AIRWAYS 

Head of Corporate Marketing & 

Ancillary Revenue Derek Yeo 


(ARBN 119 900 757; CRN 200312665W) 


(ABN 52 124 369 008) 

FOR PRE-FLIGHT ENQUIRIES AND 

RESERVATIONS, CALL: 

Singapore (main hotline): 

+65 6808 4437 

Australia: +61 (0)3 9999 2888 

Guangzhou: +86 (0)20 2283 0595 

Hong Kong: +852 3060 9155 

India: +800 600 1153 

Indonesia: +1 803 60 1933 

Malaysia: +60 (0)3 7849 4608 

Philippines: +63 (0)2 884 1524 

Thailand: +1 800 601 5637 

Vietnam: +84 (0)8 911 1239 

FOR POST-FLIGHT QUERIES: 



Changi Airport Post Offi ce 

PO Box 82, Singapore 918143 



PO Box 2101, Gladstone Park 

Melbourne, Victoria 3043, Australia 

Great value is 

back as flights in 

Australia resume 

Tiger Airways has recently resumed its Australian domestic 

services. We’ve spent a lot of time reviewing every aspect of our 

operations and listening to our customers. 

Seven million Australian passengers in just over three years of 

operation is testimony to the fact that Australians have embraced 

our low, low fares. Now, with an enhanced focus on consistently 

delivering operational excellence, reliability and great value 

for money, we hope you’ll enjoy our services even more. 

In this edition of Tiger Tales, we lay out the itinerary for an unforgettable weekend 

in Taipei, journey to Hat Yai to catch all the action in a bullfi ghting arena, and 

wander around Kuala Lumpur’s old neighbourhood of Pudu. In Australia, we embark on 

an adrenaline-charged journey around Sydney, look ahead to some of the nation’s 

hottest events and examine why Oz is still such a great value-for-money destination. 

Speaking of going places, Tiger Airways is an airline that will continue to evolve as 

we meet growing customer demand. We’re working to expand our network across 

Australia, so we urge you to check our website (www.tigerairways.com) to stay up to date 

on the latest developments and travel deals. 

Everyone deserves a good deal and Tiger Airways’ mission is to provide our 

passengers with safe, affordable and reliable travel. By keeping airfares competitive, 

we’re also helping our customers visit family and friends more regularly, follow their 

team whenever they play away games, or simply go on a last-minute weekend break just 

for the fun of it. There’s never been a better time to go than now! 

And don’t forget, if you want to get ahead of the queue every time to take advantage 

of our fantastic promotions on top of Tiger Airways’ already low fares, then sign up 

today with Stripes at www.tigerairways.com/stripes. I wish you a pleasant fl ight and 

thank you for fl ying with Tiger Airways Australia. 

I wish you a pleasant fl ight and thank you for fl ying with Tiger Airways Australia. 

Tony Davis 

Chief Executive Offi cer 

Tiger Airways Australia 

www.facebook.com/tigertalesasia 

© INK. All material in Tiger Tales is 

strictly copyrighted and all rights 

are reserved. Reproduction without 

permission of the publisher is strictly 

forbidden. Every care has been taken 

in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we 

assume no responsibility for the effects arising 

therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine 

are not necessarily those of the publisher or Tiger 

Airways. All information is correct at press time. 



2006 

+ SYDNEY + HANOI + KUALA LUMPUR + SINGAPORE + TAIPEI + 

WELCOME ABOARD 

THIS ISSUE’S 

COVER 

2010 

PHOTOGRAPHER: 

STR New/Reuters 


1

september-2011

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