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CHAPTER ELEVEN<br />

I th<strong>in</strong>k he must have fallen asleep. I did, eventually, and woke to <strong>the</strong> land<strong>in</strong>g gear com<strong>in</strong>g down. My mouth tasted horrible, and I tried to<br />

keep it shut for fear of poison<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> airplane.<br />

I looked over at Augustus, who was star<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>dow, and as we dipped below <strong>the</strong> low-hung clouds, I straightened my back to see<br />

<strong>the</strong> Ne<strong>the</strong>rlands. The land seemed sunk <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> ocean, little rectangles of green surrounded on all sides by canals. We landed, <strong>in</strong> fact, parallel<br />

to a canal, like <strong>the</strong>re were two runways: one for us and one for waterfowl.<br />

After gett<strong>in</strong>g <strong>our</strong> bags and clear<strong>in</strong>g customs, we all piled <strong>in</strong>to a taxi driven by this doughy bald guy who spoke perfect English—like better<br />

English than I do. “The Hotel Filosoof?” I said.<br />

And he said, “You are Americans?”<br />

“Yes,” Mom said. “We’re from Indiana.”<br />

“Indiana,” he said. “They steal <strong>the</strong> land from <strong>the</strong> Indians and leave <strong>the</strong> name, yes?”<br />

“Someth<strong>in</strong>g like that,” Mom said. The cabbie pulled out <strong>in</strong>to traffic and we headed toward a highway with lots of blue signs featur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

double vowels: Oosthuizen, Haarlem. Beside <strong>the</strong> highway, flat empty land stretched for miles, <strong>in</strong>terrupted by <strong>the</strong> occasional huge corporate<br />

headquarters. In short, Holland looked like Indianapolis, only with smaller cars. “This is Amsterdam?” I asked <strong>the</strong> cabdriver.<br />

“Yes and no,” he answered. “Amsterdam is like <strong>the</strong> r<strong>in</strong>gs of a tree: It gets older as you get closer to <strong>the</strong> center.”<br />

It happened all at once: We exited <strong>the</strong> highway and <strong>the</strong>re were <strong>the</strong> row houses of my imag<strong>in</strong>ation lean<strong>in</strong>g precariously toward canals,<br />

ubiquitous bicycles, and coffeeshops advertis<strong>in</strong>g LARGE SMOKING ROOM. We drove over a canal and from atop <strong>the</strong> bridge I could see dozens<br />

of houseboats moored along <strong>the</strong> water. It looked noth<strong>in</strong>g like America. It looked like an old pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g, but real—everyth<strong>in</strong>g ach<strong>in</strong>gly idyllic <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g light—and I thought about how wonderfully strange it would be to live <strong>in</strong> a place where almost everyth<strong>in</strong>g had been built by <strong>the</strong><br />

dead.<br />

“Are <strong>the</strong>se houses very old?” asked my mom.<br />

“Many of <strong>the</strong> canal houses date from <strong>the</strong> Golden Age, <strong>the</strong> seventeenth century,” he said. “Our city has a rich history, even though many<br />

t<strong>our</strong>ists are only want<strong>in</strong>g to see <strong>the</strong> Red Light District.” He paused. “Some t<strong>our</strong>ists th<strong>in</strong>k Amsterdam is a city of s<strong>in</strong>, but <strong>in</strong> truth it is a city of<br />

freedom. And <strong>in</strong> freedom, most people f<strong>in</strong>d s<strong>in</strong>.”<br />

All <strong>the</strong> rooms <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hotel Filosoof were named after filosoofers: Mom and I were stay<strong>in</strong>g on <strong>the</strong> ground floor <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kierkegaard; Augustus<br />

was on <strong>the</strong> floor above us, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Heidegger. Our room was small: a double bed pressed aga<strong>in</strong>st a wall with my BiPAP mach<strong>in</strong>e, an oxygen<br />

concentrator, and a dozen refillable oxygen tanks at <strong>the</strong> foot of <strong>the</strong> bed. Past <strong>the</strong> equipment, <strong>the</strong>re was a dusty old paisley chair with a<br />

sagg<strong>in</strong>g seat, a desk, and a bookshelf above <strong>the</strong> bed conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> collected works of Søren Kierkegaard. On <strong>the</strong> desk we found a wicker<br />

basket full of presents from <strong>the</strong> Genies: wooden shoes, an orange Holland T-shirt, chocolates, and various o<strong>the</strong>r goodies.<br />

The Filosoof was right next to <strong>the</strong> Vondelpark, Amsterdam’s most famous park. Mom wanted to go on a walk, but I was supertired, so<br />

she got <strong>the</strong> BiPAP work<strong>in</strong>g and placed its snout on me. I hated talk<strong>in</strong>g with that th<strong>in</strong>g on, but I said, “Just go to <strong>the</strong> park and I’ll call you when<br />

I wake up.”<br />

“Okay,” she said. “Sleep tight, honey.”<br />

But when I woke up some h<strong>our</strong>s later, she was sitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancient little chair <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> corner, read<strong>in</strong>g a guidebook.<br />

“Morn<strong>in</strong>g,” I said.<br />

“Actually late afternoon,” she answered, push<strong>in</strong>g herself out of <strong>the</strong> chair with a sigh. She came to <strong>the</strong> bed, placed a tank <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cart, and<br />

connected it to <strong>the</strong> tube while I took off <strong>the</strong> BiPAP snout and placed <strong>the</strong> nubb<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong>to my nose. She set it for 2.5 liters a m<strong>in</strong>ute—six h<strong>our</strong>s<br />

before I’d need a change—and <strong>the</strong>n I got up. “How are you feel<strong>in</strong>g?” she asked.<br />

“Good,” I said. “Great. How was <strong>the</strong> Vondelpark?”<br />

“I skipped it,” she said. “Read all about it <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> guidebook, though.”<br />

“Mom,” I said, “you didn’t have to stay here.”<br />

She shrugged. “I know. I wanted to. I like watch<strong>in</strong>g you sleep.”<br />

“Said <strong>the</strong> creeper.” She laughed, but I still felt bad. “I just want you to have fun or whatever, you know?”<br />

“Okay. I’ll have fun tonight, okay? I’ll go do crazy mom stuff while you and Augustus go to d<strong>in</strong>ner.”<br />

“Without you?” I asked.<br />

“Yes without me. In fact, you have reservations at a place called Oranjee,” she said. “Mr. Van Houten’s assistant set it up. It’s <strong>in</strong> this<br />

neighborhood called <strong>the</strong> Jordaan. Very fancy, accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> guidebook. There’s a tram station right around <strong>the</strong> corner. Augustus has<br />

directions. You can eat outside, watch <strong>the</strong> boats go by. It’ll be lovely. Very romantic.”<br />

“Mom.”<br />

“I’m just say<strong>in</strong>g,” she said. “You should get dressed. The sundress, maybe?”<br />

One might marvel at <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>sanity of <strong>the</strong> situation: A mo<strong>the</strong>r sends her sixteen-year-old daughter alone with a seventeen-year-old boy out<br />

<strong>in</strong>to a foreign city famous for its permissiveness. But this, too, was a side effect of dy<strong>in</strong>g: I could not run or dance or eat foods rich <strong>in</strong><br />

nitrogen, but <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> city of freedom, I was among <strong>the</strong> most liberated of its residents.<br />

I did <strong>in</strong>deed wear <strong>the</strong> sundress—this blue pr<strong>in</strong>t, flowey knee-length Forever 21 th<strong>in</strong>g—with tights and Mary Janes because I liked be<strong>in</strong>g<br />

quite a lot shorter than him. I went <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> hilariously t<strong>in</strong>y bathroom and battled my bedhead for a while until everyth<strong>in</strong>g looked suitably<br />

mid-2000s Natalie Portman. At six P.M. on <strong>the</strong> dot (noon back home), <strong>the</strong>re was a knock.<br />

“Hello?” I said through <strong>the</strong> door. There was no peephole at <strong>the</strong> Hotel Filosoof.<br />

“Okay,” Augustus answered. I could hear <strong>the</strong> cigarette <strong>in</strong> his mouth. I looked down at myself. The sundress offered <strong>the</strong> most <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> way

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