Zululand - Coast to Coast

Zululand’s sun-kissed shoreline provides endless
opportunities for swimming and fishing, snorkelling
and underwater exploration whilst its abundant game
parks, wilderness areas and wetlands provide spectacular game
viewing with numerous facilities enabling travellers to explore
the local natural beauty. Prolific roadside markets selling clay
pots, beadwork, weaving, wood carvings and basketware tempt
even the most reluctant shopper.
ESHOWE
Close to the great
indigenous tropical
Dlinza Forest, Eshowe
was once home to
Zulu kings and the
legendary John
Dunn - hunter, trader,
explorer, soldier,
statesman, white
chief of Zululand and
husband to 48 Zulu
wives. Attractions
include “The Fort”
(Zululand’s historical
museum), the
Vukani (woven craft)
Collection, the forest
boardwalk, Mpusheni
Falls, Martyr’s Cross,
the Norwegian mission
station and Shakaland.
ZULULAND
ZULULAND 222
SWAZILAND
Hlathikhulu
Nhlangano
If you’re hunting for
big game, start here.
NDUMU
GAME
RESERVE
TEMBE
ELEPHANT
RESERVE
R543 R22
ITALA N2 Pongola
NATURE
RESERVE
R66
Louwsburg
R69
R618
R69
PONGOLAPOORT LAKE SIBAYA
DAM
SODWANA
MKUZE BAY
Mkuze GAME
PARK THE
GREATER
ST LUCIA
PHINDA WETLAND PARK
Nongoma
LAKE ST LUCIA
R34
R68
R66
Ulundi
Melmoth
R618 HLUHLUWE Hluhluwe
GAME RESERVE CAPE VIDAL
UMFOLOZI Bushlands
GAME
RESERVE N2
Mtubatuba St Lucia
MAPELANE
Kwambonambi
GAME
RESERVE
R34
R66 Empangeni
Eshowe R102
Gingindlovu Mtunzini
Mandini
Richards
Bay
Stanger TO DURBAN
N
ZULULAND

THE ZULULAND BREWING COMPANY
36 Main Street, Eshowe 3815
Tel: 035 474 4919 richard@eshowe.com
www.zulubeer.com
All Baz Bus passengers are entitled to skull a free
half pint of the brewer’s fi nest when the bus stops
at the George Hotel. So hop off and quaff yours.
If you like it, stay at Zululand Backpackers and see
if you can drink them dry. With names like Bull Horn
Bitter, Lost Dog Lager, Chelmsford Porter, Broken Paddle IPA,
Ultimatum Pilsner and Zulu Blonde, you won’t be lost for
names to numb you. The Wandering Keg
regularly rolls off for sundowners at
Matchstick Hill, Signal Hill or Eshowe Dam.
Check out their website for weekend packages.
ZULULAND ECO-ADVENTURES
36 Main Street, POBox 24, Eshowe, 3815
Tel: 035 474 4919 Fax: 035 474 2691
Cell: 082 492 6918 info@eshowe.com
www.eshowe.com
These budget tours are guided by Zulu tour guides, so they’re
the real McCoy. No minimum number is needed, and they offer
a discount if you use your own transport.
DAY TRIPS
2-hour market tour - R65.
Zulu village tour - R295.
Zulu village overnight - R395.
Zulu village tour and sangoma - R265.
King Dinizulu township and
upliftment projects - R295.
Valley of the Zulu Kings,
Isandlwana, Rorke’s Drift.
223
Oops!
There goes
my Bull’s horn.
WEDNESDAYS AND WEEKENDS
Zulu wedding or coming of
age ceremony - R350.
Sangoma healing ceremony
- R295.
3 day (Mon - Wed)
Zulu Outback - R1 995 all incl.
Check their website for more details.
ZULULAND

ZULULAND BACKPACKERS
36 Main Street, POBox 24, Eshowe, 3815
Tel: 035 474 4919 Fax: 035 474 2691
Cell: 082 492 6918 info@eshowe.com
www.eshowe.com
150km north of Durban. Take Dokodweni off-ramp inland.
Situated behind the George Hotel, Zululand Backpackers
offers comfortable self-catering accommodation with
access to all the hotel facilities. It’s an ideal base from
which to explore Zulu culture with village and battlefi eld
tours, weddings, dances, coming of age celebrations, visits
to craft markets, sangomas and shebeens.
Do a half day walking
Upliftment projects
on the go:
• Norwegian Feeding Scheme
• John Montgomery Kindergarten
• Cunina Zulu Trust
• Belgian Orphans’ Home
• Zulu classroom project
• Mbongolwane Wetlands
• Basket weaving • Pottery
• Paper made from sugarcane leaves
ZULULAND 224
tour of Eshowe visiting
the Dlinza Forest (South
Africa’s only aerial
boardwalk), the Zululand
Historical Museum,
the Vukani Zulu Crafts
Collection, the Norwegian
Missionary Museum,
Mpushini Falls and
Mbongolwane
Wetlands.
The Zulu tour
guides do daily tours from here - so go on an African
culture photo safari, then, when the heat’s on,
hurtle into the pool.
X Dorms R90; Doubles R220; Singles R165; Triples R300;
En suite rooms available. Camping R55.
Baz Bus stop. Internet. Tour bookings. Easy walk from
minibus terminus. Laundry.
I’m not a good lover, but at least I’m fast. Drew Carey.

MTUNZINI
It is here the Mlalazi River reaches the coast via a long
narrow lagoon with dune forests and mangroves blanketing
its banks, and wide beaches stretching out on either side of
the river mouth. Inhabiting only two locations in SA - here
and Kosi Bay - palm nut vultures feed on the husk of the
nut of the endemic raffia palms and nest close to the water
in shaggy nests built of palm fronds.
NATURE’S WAY BACKPACKERS
1 Nature’s Way, PO Box 303, Mtunzini, 3867
Tel: 035 340 2341 Fax: 035 340 1215
Cell: 072 582 3215 / 076 221 8595
placeintheshade@yahoo.com
From Durban on N2: Take Mtunzini off-ramp. 5th right
into Hulley Avenue. 2nd right into Nature’s Way.
Situated overlooking a coastal forest that fringes the Indian
Ocean, the owner-run Nature’s Way blends into the surrounding
landscape. Slope off into their ‘front garden’ - the Siyayi Coastal
Reserve - to fi nd lush forests, pristine beaches, lazy untamed
rivers and unspoilt lagoons, all teeming with wildlife.
The guys are passionate about what they do, so
pick their brains for tips on the best of Zululand.
X Dorms R80; Doubles R180; Camping R50.
Baz Bus agents. Licensed bush tavern.
MTUBATUBA
225
Mtunzini
means “place in
the shade”.
This colourful little town is surrounded by large forest
plantations and is conveniently situated for access to both
St Lucia and Hluhluwe/iMfolozi. Mtubatuba was the name
of a local Zulu chief whose mother battled to give birth to
him and so named him “he who was pummelled out”.
ZULULAND

KHUMBULANI LODGE
388 Mkuhla Crescent, Mtubatuba, 3935
Tel: 035 550 1718 Fax: 035 550 1074
Cell: 083 300 2396 kays@mweb.co.za
www.khumbulani.com
From N2: Take R618 to St Lucia. Right into Nkosi Mtuba
(Vlamboom). Left into Cassia. Right into Mimosa. Left into
Mkuhla. Left at circle.
Lying at the gateway to all the adventure Zululand has
to offer and with the Isimangaliso Wetland Park and
Hluhluwe/iMfolozi Reserve nearby, Khumbulani offers
a multitude of affordable beach and bush activities.
Their rooms are air-conditioned and very comfortable
so give them a buzz to see what’s up and how they
can help you.
X Baz Bus stop. Pool. DSTV. Internet.
ST LUCIA
This village lies within a unique world
heritage site that contains 5 ecosystems. Animals
roam the streets and hippos, crocodiles and sharks
live in the estuary. (Actually the hippo also roam the
street, so when you bump into something big and
fat late at night, don’t insult it. It may just bite your head
off.) Game walks take you past buffalo, antelope, numerous
birds, and possibly even leopard. The deep-sea fishing is
extraordinary and
“A wonderful bird is the pelican,
his beak can hold more than his belly can.
He can take in his beak,
food enough for a week!
But I’m damned if I know how the hell he can.”
ZULULAND 226
Over 90% of South
Africa’s natural crocodile
population live here.
there are plenty of
boats that can take
you on wild wave
rides or sunset river
cruises.

BIB’S INTERNATIONAL BACKPACKERS
310 McKenzie Street, POBox 51, St Lucia, 3936
Tel: 035 590 1056 Fax: 035 590 1360
info@bibs.co.za www.bibs.co.za
At the second traffi c circle.
Bib’s is an excellent hostel and fully serviced till 10pm daily
so you don’t have to do any humdrum domestics like washing
dirty dishes. Situated in town close to shops, restaurants and
bars, Bib’s caters for every aspect of the backpacker market
with camping, dorms, self-catering chalets and air-conditioned
doubles. It’s situated in the heart of the St Lucia World
Heritage Site and surrounded by national parks so you could
walk out of the door and into a hippo. At night you can go
hunting for bushbabies, colourful chameleons, and, if you’re
lucky, leopard. The Greater St Lucia Wetlands Park and its
5 eco systems offers over 60km of self-guided trails and
four of the Big Five. The local beaches are unspoilt and the
Hluhluwe/iMfolozi Game Reserve is only 40 minutes drive
away. The backpacker restaurant serves breakfast and dinner
but if you want something more lively head for the bar and
a few games of pool or Jenga.Their info centre offers a
multitude of trips including local day tours and open vehicle
4x4 game drives.
X Dorms R115; Doubles R220; Self-catering en suite doubles
R315; Camping R60. Baz Bus stop. Satellite TV.
Bureau de change. Internet café.
I believe in making the world safe for our children, but not our
children’s children, because I don’t think children should be having sex.
227
Hey!
Who took my
dental fl oss?
• Free!
• Morning walks
• Beach fi res
• Shuttle to and from beach
• Zulu dancing on Saturday y
nights
ZULULAND

STOKKIESDRAAI
74 McKenzie Street, POBox 28, St Lucia, 3936
Tel/Fax: 035 590 1216 info@stokkiesdraai.com
www.stokkiesdraai.com
Situated in the centre of town, Stokkiesdraai offers
backpackers accommodation and fully equipped
2, 4 or 6 sleeper self-catering units which are
serviced daily. If you’re not out
cruising the lake or game park,
stokkiesdraai (verb):
sunworship at the pool or chat
to their friendly staff for tips on
1. play truant (E.)
2. spijbelen (Du.)
snorkelling, kayaking, turtle tours,
3. bigiare la scuola (It.)
whale watching, cultural tours,
4. schul schwänzen (G.)
nature trails…You name it.
X Dorms R100; Singles R110; Doubles R250.
Baz Bus stop and agent. Private parking. Braai facilities.
HLUHLUWE
UmHluhluwe - the Zulu name for a thorny rope
creeper found in the area - lies 300km north of Durban.
It was the first area to be “reserved for game” (1895)
and its main attraction is the Hluhluwe/iMfolozi
game reserve which literally teems with game.
The park boasts impressive numbers of magnificent
white (or square-lipped) rhinos and the more
aggressive black rhino as well as buffalo, nyala, kudu,
impala, zebra, bushbuck, waterbuck, giraffe, leopard,
cheetah, numerous small antelope and a fantastic bird
population. The re-introduction of lion and elephant
completed a natural balance which was disturbed by
heavy hunting between 1800 -1890.
Hey! Who you
calling square-lip?
ZULULAND 228
The Big Five are
prolific and we
recommend a safari with one
of the local operators.
The area produces over 90%
of SA’s pineapples and also
grows sisal - an unfriendly
looking spiky fibrous plant
that is used to make rope.

HLUHLUWE BACKPACKERS AND DINIZULU SAFARIS
POBox 659, Hluhluwe, 3960
Tel: 035 562 0357 Fax: 086 524 3405
Cell: 076 375 3831 hluhluwebackpackers@lantic.net
www.safarinow.com
From Hluhluwe town: Follow signs to Hluhluwe National Park for
12km - they are 1,5km from the Memorial entrance to the park.
Here, rural Zululand surrounds you and the
Hluhluwe/iMfolozi National Park (home to the
Big Five) is a stone’s throw away. Make yourself at
home in an en suite dorm with its own DSTV and
fridge, in a comfy double room or in a caravan.
All rooms are serviced daily
Dinizulu Safaris
Established in 1969, Dinizulu’s been around
since Pa fell off the wagon. They offer
tours to Hluhluwe and Mkhuze in open 4x4
vehicles. Their professional bush-wise guides
know every whiff, spoor and watering hole
so they’ll take you on a sensory safari that
really reveals the secrets of the wild.
Choose a 3 or 6 hour drive - or better yet,
treat yourself to a full day with breakfast,
lunch and cool drinks thrown in.
229
and breakfast is included.
Not sure what to do?
Dave offers a 3 day tour
to St Lucia and Cape Vidal
with a full day game drive,
a quad bike adventure,
accommodation and all
meals included.
Or experience the
Zulu zone on
a quad bike trip to the Nomopondo
community, spotting hippo and crocs at the dam
en route. These rides last 1, 3 or 6 hours and take a
maximum of 6 people.
X Dorms R120; Doubles R280; Camping R70.
Free 7th night. Free breakfast, tea and coffee.
VIP/AroundAboutCars discount.
Baz Bus shuttle. Free pick up from Hluhluwe town.
Before I speak, I have something important to say
Fred goes
hunting...
ZULULAND

BUSHBABY LODGE AND CAMPING
D49, POBox 622, Hluhluwe, 3960
Tel: 035 562 0021 Fax: 035 562 0964
bushbaby@101fc.nl
www.bushbabylodge.co.za
Take Bushlands turn-off from N2. Turn towards Bushlands.
At T-junction turn left. Follow signs. Turn right over railway line.
It’s a quick early morning drive from here to the
Hluhluwe/iMfolozi Game Reserve, so sleep in a
wooden cabin under a canopy of stars or camp
under an umbrella of indigenous trees, wake to
sparrow farts and go glorious game driving.
Their on-site restaurant serves home-made meals and
the pub serves cold beer, warm whiskey and … (fi ll in
the gap). So grab something and then dip into the pool
and splash the sun to bed.
SODWANA BAY
Sodwana is the big name on the
lips of divers around South Africa and literally thousands of
people drive huge distances to get here. Humpback whales
pass Sodwana en route to their northern breeding grounds
and turtles return every year to follow an ancient nesting
ritual. Marlin, whale sharks, sailfish and manta rays are
found in the warm Mozambican Current and the underwater
world is superb with spectacular coral formations.
There are no banks in Sodwana Bay. The nearest
is in Hluhluwe (102km away by road). The nearest
garage and Post Office are in Mbazwana (19km).
The nearest doctor is in Hluhluwe (102km),
although there is a first aid room in
Sodwana Park for the stabilisation
for badly injured people.
ZULULAND 230
It is advisable to take precautions
against Malaria especially during the
hot summer months (October - May).
The water treated at a purification
plant is fit for human consumption
although it is a little discoloured.
Perhaps you would like to take a
couple of bottles of drinking water?
A bachelor’s life is no
life for a single man.

CORAL DIVERS
Sodwana Bay National Park, P.Bag 320, Mbazwana, 3974
Resort Tel: 035 571 0290 Resort Fax: 035 571 0287
Reservations Tel: 033 345 6531
Reservations Fax: 033 345 8918
coraldivers@mweb.co.za www.coraldivers.co.za
Coral Divers is a PADI Gold Palm Resort
situated in the in Sodwana Bay National
Park. They provide all levels of PADI Scuba
instruction from Bubble Maker to Instructor
Development courses as well dive packages,
dive charters and gear hire.
Warm water, excellent visibility, beautiful
coral reefs and 1 200 fi sh species make this
one of S.A.’s most popular dive destinations.
Turtles and dolphins are often sighted and
whale sharks, whales and raggies
(in season) could be lurking around the
next reef, so keep your mask peeled…
The resort has a licensed bar, deck and
swimming pool, braai area, a satellite TV room, internet,
take-aways, a full buffet (with the catered option) or a
fully equipped kitchen for self-caterers. They have ample
231
FREE
• Beach transfers
• Beach soccer
• Volleyball
• Touch rugby
• Ocean kayaks
Body boarding
Walking trails
Rhino tracking
Quad bike rides
Turtle tours
Snorkelling
accommodation, ranging from safari tents to cabins and en suite
cabins. Transfers can be arranged from the Baz Bus drop off at
Bushlands/Hluhluwe.
Low season special
Bring a Coast to Coast with you and receive
a 10% discount on a five dive package.
I’d like to get four people who do cart wheels
really well, and make a cart.
ZULULAND

KOSI BAY
Kosi Bay Nature Reserve is part
of the Greater St Lucia Wetland
Park (which is a World Heritage
site). The reserve is made up of
a series of lakes connected by
channels that drain through a
sandy estuary into the sea.
The Tsonga live here, and have trapped fish in handmade
traps (that look like reed fences) for generations.
As only 4x4 vehicles can access to the reserve the area is
relatively unspoilt. It’s also stunning. In December and
January the endangered loggerhead and leatherback turtles
come to the beaches to lay their eggs and humpback
whales pass here as they migrate along the coastline.
THOBEKA BACKPACKERS LODGE
Kosi Bay Road, Kwa-Ngwanase, 3973
Cell: 072 446 1525 enquiries@kosi.co.za
From N2: Go through Hluhluwe. Left to Mbazwana.
Follow signs to Kwa-Ngwanase. Follow signs.
From Swaziland N2: Take Jozini turn off.
Over dam to Manguzi. Through town. Follow signs.
Off the beaten track but close to stunning
beaches and the Kosi Lake system, Thobeka
offers canoeing, phenomenal snorkelling and turtle spotting
(in season). It’s on the short but adventurous route to
Mozambique, to which they offer tours to swim with dolphins.
Their shuttle (from R100pp) can take you to places your hire
car can’t.
X Dorms R85; Doubles R260; Camping R65.
Daily pick-ups from Mkhuze and Hluhluwe.
ZULULAND 232
The awe with which the Tsonga
regard their surroundings is
encapsulated in a ritual called
“ukubonisa inyanga” (the moon
beholds the child). Soon after a
baby is born it is taken down to
the sea. A wave is allowed to
wash over the child before it is
shown to the first moon that rises
over the ocean after its birth.