2013-summer-magazine

FROM GRAiN
TO GLASS
Photos courtesy of Brian Van Tighem White Leaf Photography
lOCal QualiTY
ThaT QuENChES
By Mike Fisher
Matt Sawyer stands in 4,200 acres of
Alberta cropland, the sun on his face and
the malt barley that he grows waving like
a field of gold. Meanwhile, I’m sipping
WRaspberry Ale some 90 km southwest in
Calgary’s Wild Rose Brewery & Taproom
(wildrosebrewery.com), the tart taste
suffusing my smile as I raise an arm to
call over a friend.
The journey of an Alberta beer from grain to
glass has always been invisible to me, but
I’ve learned it moves in not-so-mysterious
ways – from the farmer to the malter to the
brewmaster to the waitress, who is just now
bringing me another ale to pair with the
taproom’s raspberry cobbler.
Then and Now
In between the drafts my father would order
at his favourite beer hall, he never had to ask
what to pair with the flat ale on tap. Pickled
eggs or beef jerky pretty much summed it
up. But times have changed, and so have
the brews and taprooms. The craft beer
scene in Alberta is booming.
Here at Wild Rose, parts of old kegs
decorate the bar and the chairs are
handmade. The barstools even have tractor
seats on them, giving new life to the phrase
“from farm to table.” With the reliance on
fresh, local ingredients, it’s a term foodies
love to hear. And increasingly, the people
who love good eats are seeking prime beers
and beerhouses for their discerning palates.
A Natural Partnership
“Everything starts with a good foundation
in order to produce a quality product,”
says Sawyer, of Sawyer Farms Ltd. in Acme.
“You begin with quality workmanship and
some help from Mother Nature.”
Nature gives Alberta the beginnings of the
right stuff for making great ale – premium
barley (and for certain ales, wheat), and
perfect hard water. Next, there are great malt
houses such as Rahr Malting (rahr.com) in
Alix, and finally, experienced brewmasters.
Supply and Demand for Quality
My quest for quality begins, right here:
quenching my thirst.
As the consumer, I’m the final but
necessary cog in the wheel that helps drive
this train. And as my tastes become more
sophisticated, with home brew enthusiasts
and others like me demanding more varied,
flavourful and fresh beers, the craft beer
market in Alberta continues to expand.
Russell Shuttleworth, Rahr Malting’s
Grower Relations Coordinator, says
“We work hard to get all our grain sourced
directly from the grower, allowing us
uniformity and higher quality. And craft
brewing is all about quality.”
Local Success Stories
Led by Ed McNally, Calgary’s Big Rock
Brewery (bigrockbeer.com) got craft
beer going in Alberta in 1985, a success
story that grew from one man’s passion
for enjoying beer. Now, there are
premium breweries and tap houses
all around Alberta.
Bear Hill Brewing Company
(bearhillbrewingco.ca) is another
Alberta craft brew success story,
beginning with the Jasper Brewing
Company in 2005, The Banff Ave. Brewing
Co. in 2010, and the Wood Buffalo
Operation (one of the largest brewpub/
eateries in Canada), recently launched by
Fort McMurray local, Steven Sachse.
Alberta’s spirit of entrepreneurialism helps
pave the way for new brews and brewpubs
in the province, according to Sachse, one
of a new breed of beer businessmen
who combine extensive food and beverage
backgrounds with get-it-done energy.
“Our customers include the savvy people
who realize Fort Mac is a great place to live,”
he says. “There is local pride in our beers.
Every single one is designed for the water
of Fort McMurray and Wood Buffalo.”
Local residents even had a hand in
naming the Wood Buffalo brews. When the
company asked for input, they got it, and
now you can enjoy Gold Digger Golden Ale,
Lift Kit Lager and Overtime IPA, among
others, in downtown Fort McMurray.
Not Your Father’s Beer
According to Sachse, the beer industry is
changing and for the better. “Once upon a
time, we were told to love our dad’s brands,
but craft brewing is a whole new way of
looking at beer. It’s fresh beer versus a
package brand. It’s a new attitude.”
4 travelalberta.com 1-800-ALBERTA 5
I’ll drink to that.
Check out page 6 for Brewery Tours
and Beer Clubs.