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Navel of the Demoness : Tibetan Buddhism and Civil Religion in ...

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46 <strong>the</strong> navel <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> demoness<br />

The story is <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g because it can be seen to convey a moral from<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> two dist<strong>in</strong>ct religious worldviews. The first can be seen as a straightforward<br />

Buddhist one, <strong>in</strong> which <strong>the</strong> community is punished for its cupidity:<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me <strong>of</strong> a village be<strong>in</strong>g destroyed because <strong>of</strong> its preoccupation with material<br />

wealth is one we shall encounter later <strong>in</strong> connection with Te. The story<br />

can also be understood as a salutary warn<strong>in</strong>g aga<strong>in</strong>st poor judgment <strong>in</strong> deal<strong>in</strong>g<br />

with territorial div<strong>in</strong>ities. While bovids were—<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> a few places, as<br />

I will show, still are—acceptable blood-<strong>of</strong>fer<strong>in</strong>gs to local gods, horses never<br />

have been. Because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> close association between horses <strong>and</strong> humans—<br />

particularly men—<strong>the</strong> two are functionally identical <strong>in</strong> certa<strong>in</strong> sacred-magical<br />

contexts. It is common enough <strong>in</strong> Mustang, when a man’s horse dies <strong>in</strong> a<br />

remote area where <strong>the</strong> body has to be ab<strong>and</strong>oned, that <strong>the</strong> owner will first<br />

decapitate <strong>the</strong> corpse <strong>and</strong> conceal <strong>the</strong> head, or else simply smash <strong>the</strong> skull, for<br />

it might o<strong>the</strong>rwise be used by his enemies <strong>in</strong> black magic rituals aga<strong>in</strong>st him.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> nearby village <strong>of</strong> Dzong, it is said, <strong>the</strong> ma<strong>in</strong> place-god ab<strong>and</strong>oned <strong>the</strong><br />

village <strong>and</strong> moved to Manang because <strong>the</strong> site had been polluted by <strong>the</strong> spilled<br />

blood ‘‘<strong>of</strong> men <strong>and</strong> horses.’’ This close association also underlies <strong>the</strong> general<br />

<strong>Tibetan</strong> aversion to <strong>the</strong> consumption <strong>of</strong> horse meat: ‘‘To eat horse meat is considered<br />

morally condemnable s<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>in</strong> <strong>Tibetan</strong> society <strong>the</strong> horse is not only<br />

<strong>the</strong> companion <strong>of</strong> man, but also, as illustrated by <strong>the</strong> ‘w<strong>in</strong>d-horse’ (rlung rta), a<br />

symbol <strong>of</strong> his welfare’’ (Karmay 1998a: 391).<br />

A part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community <strong>of</strong> Gyaga, it is said, went to settle <strong>in</strong> Sangdag, on<br />

<strong>the</strong> way to Dolpo. (It may be worth not<strong>in</strong>g that although this village is <strong>Tibetan</strong>speak<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

it is sometimes referred to as a Shöyul, <strong>the</strong> implication be<strong>in</strong>g that it<br />

was once populated by Seke-speakers.) The rest <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community is said to<br />

have settled <strong>in</strong> an extensive area <strong>of</strong> caves on <strong>the</strong> east bank <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kali G<strong>and</strong>aki<br />

where it is jo<strong>in</strong>ed by <strong>the</strong> Gyalung River. The area <strong>of</strong> caves is known as Gyagalung<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>Tibetan</strong> <strong>and</strong> Gyagagyung <strong>in</strong> Seke. To <strong>the</strong> north <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> caves is an area<br />

<strong>of</strong> ab<strong>and</strong>oned fields said once to have been cultivated by <strong>the</strong> community. The<br />

water for Gyagalung was <strong>the</strong> stream <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dröyong Lungba (called Gayang<br />

Gyung <strong>in</strong> Seke), which is also <strong>the</strong> only source <strong>of</strong> irrigation water for nearby<br />

Taye. When, over <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> time, <strong>the</strong> quantity <strong>of</strong> water <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> stream<br />

dim<strong>in</strong>ished so that <strong>the</strong>re was <strong>in</strong>adequate surplus from Taye, Gyagalung <strong>and</strong> its<br />

fields were ab<strong>and</strong>oned. The community occupied <strong>the</strong> area <strong>of</strong> caves above<br />

Tshognam (discussed later) for a certa<strong>in</strong> period before mov<strong>in</strong>g up to Gyaga.<br />

The name Gyaga is said to be derived from <strong>the</strong> names <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> places previously<br />

<strong>in</strong>habited by <strong>the</strong> people, that is, Gyathang <strong>and</strong> Gyagalung. As we have seen, <strong>the</strong><br />

Seke name <strong>of</strong> Gyaga is Gyuga.<br />

Taye itself (<strong>the</strong> name is usually spelled Tang yos, gTang yos, etc. <strong>in</strong> local<br />

documents) is a village <strong>of</strong> thirty-one estates (Tib. grong pa) <strong>and</strong> six subsidiary

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