Hanoi, one of the most beautiful of the colonial Indochinese cities, is ...

Hanoi 

Hanoi, one of the most beautiful of the colonial 

Indochinese cities, is often the start or end point of a trip 

to Vietnam, and what a great welcome or farewell it is. 

Oozing with charm, Hanoi has gone through wholesale 

changes since Vietnam swung open its doors to tourism, 

but it remains true to its essential personality and is an 

amazing city to experience. 

Though considerably quieter than big sister Saigon, 

Hanoi still retains a vibrant atmosphere. From the 

early hours until late at night, the fig-tree shaded streets 

swarm with careening motorbikes, often with four, five 

or even six people aboard. A cyclo is available on most 

street corners, but unless you are making a particularly 

long trip, the best way to explore Hanoi is by foot. 

It seems that in Hanoi, no two streets meet at 90 

degrees and there so many one-way thoroughfares it 

sometimes feels like you can't get there from here, nor 

here from there. Count on getting lost. But a day of 

dodging traffic and elbowing your way through 

overcrowded footpaths is exactly how most people 

spend their time in Hanoi, and it's more fun than any 

purpose-built tourist attraction. Keep a map close at 

hand though, so when you find something that tickles 

your fancy, you can mark it down -- otherwise you risk 

never finding it again. 

Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and museums 

where you can while away the hours of a warm 

summer's afternoon -- Lenin Park, south of Hoan Kiem 

district and just north of Bay Kau Lake are among the 

Guide to Hanoi 

most popular, especially on holidays, when it's packed 

with picnickers. 

In winter months, you can find yourself a cozy cafe to 

snuggle up in, or find a streetside restaurant boiling up 

a pot of something belly-warming and delicious. While 

Hanoians are certainly happy to be free of the French 

occupation, they continue to embrace French culinary 

culture. 

Big, fat, fresh baguettes are sold everywhere, good for 

a pate sandwich or smeared with the ubiquitous 

Laughing Cow cheese. The coffee is world class -served 

strong and rich in demitasses -- with the best 

blends being smooth and chocolatey. Wine is widely 

available, though inadequate storage and rotation lead 

to some bad bottles. 

Specialty places like The Warehouse on Hang Trong 

are good for a wide, reliable selection of domestic and 

foreign vintages. And, of course, the pasteries beckon 

too. Hanoi has a plentiful and delicious collection of 

patisseries spread all over the city boasting decadent 

but very affordable treats. 

Finally, the people of Hanoi are some of the warmest 

and most approachable in the country. Though English 

is not as commonly spoken as in the South, many of the 

older generation have a working vocabulary of French. 

Regardless of language, people will attempt to have a 

conversation with you irrespective of whether you can 

understand them. Many of the city's cyclo drivers speak 

some English and often have intriguing pasts that they 

are now willing to discuss with foreigners. 

In Hanoi, you may find yourself sitting in a cafe sipping 

excellent coffee, nibbling a pastry, chatting in French to 

an old gentleman sporting a beret, while looking out on 

a vista of French-style buildings in the shadows of fig 

trees. You may begin to doubt that you got off the plane 

in the right city. But then, sitting at a streetside 

restaurant, slurping up a bowl of bun cha with a side of 

fresh springrolls, watching the 'yoke ladies' trundle by in 

their conical hats, hawking their wares -- nope, it's not 

Paris warmed over ... It's full-on Hanoi, a city to be 

savoured. 

1/32 Copyright http://www.travelfish.org/

Orientation 

While the city is developing a bit of a sprawl, Hanoi's 

centre can be split into three main areas, all of which 

are within walking distance of one another. The Old 

Quarter remains the most popular, interesting and 

inexpensive part of Hanoi to stay in. Wedged to the 

north of Hoan Kiem Lake, the area is characterised by a 

twisting mess of narrow roads and alleys, lots of 

attractive old buildings, interesting street scenes and 

plenty of noise. The Old Quarter (or Pho Co, literally, 

old streets) is home to streets named after the goods 

that were traditionally sold on them. The names usually 

start with 'hang', which means 'something you sell, and 

then the thing itself. Some of these names may date 

back as far as 800 years, when trade guilds formed to 

market the goods they produced in outlying craft 

villages. Back then, the street were just lines of 

makeshift stalls. They were taxed by width of frontage, 

which explains all those skinny buildings. When they 

eventually built on the land, they went deep and high, 

keeping the shop up front. Each guild also poured some 

profits into the building of temples at which to pray for 

prosperity, and sometimes you can still find several 

along one street. The most famous and best to visit is 

Bach Ma Temple along Hang Buom. Many of the 

streets have changed with the times, especially the 

southern part of the Old Quarter, which has been given 

over to tourism and its allied businesses. But a 

surprising number of streets still sell what they were 

named for centuries ago, and yet more have found new 

specialties that make them worth seeking out. While the 

names of Hanoi's classic streets are colourful, 

unfortunately, they sometimes change every few blocks 

-- Bat Dan, Hang Bo, Hang Bac, and Hang Mam are all 

the same exact street. This makes it tricky to get around, 

since you can be headed straight to your hotel and not 

even know it. To the south of the lake is the French 

Quarter, home to Central Hanoi's poshest hotels: the 

Sofitel Metropole and the Hilton Hanoi Opera, as well 

as the Opera House itself. Here you'll also find Hanoi's 

ritziest restaurants -- the Club Opera and the Press 

Club, as the well as the Museum of History and the 

Museum of the Revolution. It's a good place for a visit 

even if you're not staying here -- it's much better 

laid-out, with broad, tree-lined boulevards and, 

compared to the rest of Hanoi, moderate street traffic. 

Come evening, the streets are relatively deserted. The 

western part of the city is home to the West Lake, the 

Citadel, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex and a 

bunch of museums. Those visiting the attractions will 

often find themselves in this part of town, though there 

are not many hotels. When visiting West Lake, be sure 

to look out for the lotus-flower farms rimming the lake -an 

excellent photo op. A word about the traffic. It's not 


uncommon to see foreigners standing on the curb, 

frozen in fear, waiting for a break in the onslaught of 

bikes, cyclos, trucks, vendor carts, and motorbikes (with 

two tons of bagged cement balancing, unfastened, on 

the back) ... but the break never comes. The terrifying 

solution is that you must simply step right into the street. 

Be sure to look carefully for vehicles moving in the 

wrong direction first, and give approaching vehicles 

room to manoeuvre around you without smashing into 

something -- or someone. What you'll find is that the 

traffic simply flows around you as you proceed slowly 

and steadily forward. Stop, while crossing, if you must, 

but stand firm and do not back up! That's the surest 

way to flummox the flow. Stand there like a pylon until 

the way forward is clear. And, again, keep an eye out 

for traffic going the wrong way. Where should I stay in 

Hanoi? By far the bulk of tourists and travellers opt for 

lodgings in the Old Quarter, which has the best 

selection of accommodation from budget guesthouses 

through to comfortable mid-range hotels. The French 

Quarter and the area just to the south of Hoan Kiem 

Lake has the bulk of plush hotels. Picking a hotel in 

Hanoi can be daunting. Good hotels go bad, and bad 

hotels become good at a rate that even the most 

diligent travel researcher is hard-pressed to keep up 

with. Many travellers prefer to book ahead in Hanoi, and 

we can't blame them -- cheap digs fill up quickly during 

peak times and the last thing you want to do, especially 

after getting off an international flight, is hump from 

place to place. But committing to one hotel, sight 

unseen, is risky. Book one or two days, so if you don't 

like what you get, you can easily switch venues. And if 

you're happy where you are, rarely do hotels refuse 

when guests wish to extend their stay. Be sure to read 

our story on picking a good guesthouse in Hanoi. 

Sights and attractions Hanoi has some fine spots to 

visit, but really, the attraction of Hanoi is the very town 

itself. Travellers who arrive in Vietnam via Hanoi are 

usually too busy taking it all in to worry about touring 

the sights. And those who wind up their trip here are 

usually toured out and just want to relax. Both groups 

end up wandering around the Old Quarter, eating and 

drinking, and revelling in the beauty and madness of the 

city. A third group pre-books a sightseeing tour, takes in 

all the culture, but maybe misses out on the city itself. If 

you really want to do both, you should dedicate at least 

a week to Hanoi alone. But if you have to choose, we 

see no downside to blowing off the tourist attractions 

and just immersing yourself in one of the great cities of 

Southeast Asia. Maps Numerous maps of Hanoi are 

available at magazine kiosks and bookstores 

throughout the city, as well as from roving booksellers. 

Most maps are 10,000 VND, with some better ones 

going for 20,000 VND. The "Vietnam Tourist Map" by 

the Nhat Xuat Ban Ban Do company features a map of 

the whole country on one side with a bare sketch of the 


oad network. On the reverse, the map of Hanoi is good 

for one-way streets, but the Old Quarter is small and 

hard to read, and there's no street index. There's also a 

map of Saigon. The same company also publishes "Du 

Lich Hanoi Tourist Map" with Northern Vietnam on one 

side (and better coverage of roads) and a blow up of 

their Hanoi map on the other side, with one-way streets 

indicated, and a pretty good street index. They also 

publish a "Hanoi Tourist Map," worth seeking out for its 

detailed information on bus routes and bus stations. 

Each street in Greater Hanoi is marked with the 

numbers of the buses that ply them, and on the reverse 

is a table breaking down all the routes -- the map is 

indispensable if you plan to seriously use the city bus 

network. In general, for the Old Quarter, you may do 

just as well picking up a free map from your hotel -many 

of them are good enough. But the king of Old 

Quarter maps is the "Hanoi Old Town Tourist Map." It's 

big and colourful, with a drawing of every building in 

Hanoi, but it still leaves out a lot of the smaller streets 

and laneways. The freebie "Central Hanoi Map" 

provided by the Tourist Information Centre and 

available at most hotels and travel agencies will do at a 

pinch, but it's packed with ads, lacks detail, the street 

index is small and one-way streets are not indicated. 

Some of the more popular maps of Hanoi which can be 

purchased online include (affiliate links): Insight Flexi 

Map Hanoi Hanoi Map by ITMB Hanoi is an ideal place 

to stock up on reading material and maps for the rest of 

your trip. The wandering book sellers are sure to 

approach you with their stacks, all of which can be 

bought a bit more cheaply at a proper book store, but 

you can usually bargain the price down to a reasonable 

mark-up. If you want to check out a merchant with walls, 

try: Book Exchange 35 Hang Giay, Hanoi. T: (04) 928 

3186. Hours: 09:00 to 22:30 Bookworm 15a Ngo Van 

So, Hanoi. T: (04) 943 7226. Hours: 10:00 to 19:00, 

closed Mondays Chill Out Penguin 33 Hang Hanh, 

Hanoi. T: (04) 928 9192. Hours: 09:00 to 22:30 Trang 

Tien Bookstore 44 Trang Tien, Hanoi. T: (04) 826 

2934, F: (04) 934 1591. Hours: 08:00 to 21:00 Hanoi 

guidebooks Loved or loathed, just about every traveller 

and backpacker you meet will have one of these. Here 

are some of the best-known publications (affiliate links): 

Lonely Planet Reviewed by Travelfish here. Rough 

Guide Let's Go Vietnam Fodor's See It Vietnam 

Footprint Vietnam Frommer's Vietnam A good online 

resource for information about Hanoi can be found on 

the expatriate-run website www.newhanoians.com. 

They have especially good coverage of upcoming 

events you might not hear about otherwise. 

Communications The international code for Vietnam is 

84, and the city code for Hanoi is 04. Many cell phone 

numbers start with 09 and in some cases, 01 and can 

be as long as four digits. When calling from oversees, 

drop the zero before the city code and cell phone 


numbers. Dial-out codes differ from country to country -consult 

http://www.countrycallingcodes.com/ for more 

info. If you plan to make calls from your room, look for 

hotels that offer IDD (International Direct Dialling). But 

this is very expensive -- better to drag yourself to a 

cyber-cafe that offers internet phone services. Internet 

Internet is so cheap and widely available that many 

hotels give it away for free to guests. Cyber cafes are 

rarely more than 5,000 VND per hour. WiFi access has 

become a standard extra at many hotels. Even if your 

hotel doesn't offer it, chances are you can log on to the 

network of the place next door. If you've got a 

WiFi-capable PDA you can just stroll down the street 

finding connections. In addition, many reasonably 

priced hotels now have Local Area Networks in at least 

some rooms, and more than a few places supply 

desktop computers in their deluxe rooms. Hanoi 

newspapers If you're looking to keep up-to-date on the 

latest grain prices and other economic gems, Vietnam 

News is for you. Otherwise keep an eye out for 

imported dailies, like the International Herald Tribune. 

Emergencies Hospitals Hanoi has adequate hospitals, 

though for serious injuries, evacuation to Bangkok is a 

good idea -- make sure you have travel insurance. 

Hospitals in Hanoi include: Bach Mai Hospital Giai 

Phong, Hanoi. T: (04) 869 3731 International SOS 31 

Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. T: (04) 934 0666, F: (04) 934 

0556. 24-hour Emergency: (04) 934 0555 Hanoi 

Family Medical Practice Suite 109, A1 Van Phuc 

Compound, 298 Kim Ma, Hanoi. Emergency T: (04) 843 

0748, F: (04) 846 1750, 24-hour Emergency: (04) 843 

0748, (090) 340 1919. 

http://www.vietnammedicalpractice.com/ Vietnam 

French Friendship Hospital 1B Phuong Mai, Hanoi. 

Tel: (04) 577 1100, F: (04) 576 4443.. 

http://www.hfh.com.vn/ Medications and contraband If 

you need to carry a large supply of medications into 

Vietnam through Hanoi, make sure they are well 

marked and, if possible, unopened. The authorities are 

very wary of drug trafficking and may, in some 

circumstances, suspect the worst. That said, once 

you're in Vietnam, many of the prescription drugs you 

buy back home are available over the counter at greatly 

reduced prices. Also, be warned that literature or visual 

media that might be deemed offensive (morally or 

politically) might be confiscated, at a minimum. Police 

When it comes to violent crime, Hanoi, in general, is 

remarkably safe, particularly for foreigners. This is 

partly because crimes against foreigners are treated 

more severely by the government, which wants to 

encourage tourism. Petty crime is also infrequent, but 

foreigners are sometimes the target. We've heard of cat 

burglaries, bag-snatching, and pockets being picked. 

Women out clubbing should leave their purse with the 

bar staff rather than at their table, and if you're heading 

out for a big evening, leave the credit cards, camera 


and iPod behind. Other than that, the overwheliming 

way foreigners are robbed is by being overcharged. If 

that starts getting under your skin, read some of the 

crime reports from Thailand or Cambodia. One great 

thing about the cops in Vietnam is that they don't hassle 

tourists -- ever. There's a new policy by the government 

stating that if a police officer tries to extort a foreigner 

for money (the way they do in Laos all the time), once 

you report it, they will be fired immediately. This has 

created a relaxed climate for expats and travellers that 

is second-to-none in Southeast Asia. Two notable 

exceptions, though: helmets are mandatory for drivers 

AND passengers everywhere in Hanoi, and radar speed 

traps are increasingly common on the main arteries, 

with fines of up to half a million dong. The police can 

however be a little slow off the block when it comes to 

petty crime. This can be frustrating, but it won't help to 

scream and stomp your feet and threaten to call your 

embassy. Be patient and polite at all times. All they are 

really going to do is fill out a report which you'll need to 

claim the loss on your insurance. This situation changes 

dramatically however if the crime is serious, especially if 

you have concrete information about the perpetrator. 

Then, they snap into action. The emergency 

telephone number for the police is 113. Common 

needs in Hanoi Banks ATMs are everywhere, 

especially in the Old Quarter. Almost all of them take 

foreign cards, but look for Incom, Sacom, BIDV, ANZ 

and Vietcom in particular. They all, of course, have 

numerous bank branches with a wide range of services 

and many are open on Saturday. We've always had 

good luck at Vietcom Bank. Not every bank is good for 

foreign exchange -- you may end up paying GBP2 to 

change a GBP20 note. Gold shops can be dodgy, but 

as long as you know your exchange rate, you can make 

out well. First, check out the current rate on xe.com., 

then look for a shop that has a rate board along Hang 

Bac or Hang Gai. Post office Hanoi GPO 75 Dinh Tien 

Hoang, Hanoi. T: (04) 825 5948, Hours: 06:30 to 21:30 

daily. Long distance phone services available. On the 

southeast edge of Hoan Kiem Lake, just south of Ngoc 

Son Pagoda and across the street -- you can't miss it. 

Basic postal services are also available everywhere you 

see the words "Buu Dien" and many hotels will handle 

postal services for you. http://www.vnpt.com.vn Tours 

We wish we could give you an authoritative guide to the 

shifting sands of Hanoi travel agencies, but such is 

beyond the capabilities of any mere mortal. So many 

factors come into play. How much are you willing to pay? 

What will you put up with to pay less? How many others 

are signed up for a given day? New agencies pop up all 

the time, old agencies close down. Good agencies 

sometimes cut corners, crappy agencies sometimes 

give you the time of your life. We'll give you the best 

advice we can, and let us know your experience, but 

please -- don't kill the messenger. If you're headed to 


Ha Long, check out our Ha Long Bay section for a 

series of stories on picking the right tour. Otherwise, the 

key destinations are sties near Ninh Binh and Sapa, 

though city tours, trips to the Perfume Pagoda, and 

tours of nearby craft villages are also available. Our 

general advice is, shop around for the best price, but be 

warned: the best price is not always the best trip for you. 

Nail down specifics: mode of transport, class of 

accommodation, number of people on the tour, 

available activities. As a rule of thumb, any ticket seller 

who wavers on answering or is obviously making things 

up as they go, is a red flag. But here's the kicker: the 

tour they are lying about may actually be fine, they just 

don't know one way or the other! You see our dilemma. 

Culi Cafe would, without hesitation, be our top pick for 

straight-shooting travel advice. It's run by a group of 

Aussies and Vietnamese and while their tours aren't 

always the cheapest, if you're looking for something 

else, they'll happily direct you to it. They've also started 

up a some very promising cycling treks that we are 

eager to try out. And the Cafe has good pizza to munch 

on while you're contemplating your decision. Make this 

your first stop. Culi Cafe 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hanoi. 

T: (04) 926 2241, (0905) 056 556, (0903) 486 488. 

http://www.wideeyedtours.com. The following places 

seem to have good reputations. Let us know if they give 

you a bum steer. Apple Hotel 53B Luong Ngoc Quyen, 

Hanoi. T: (04) 928 1403, 242 0511. Discovery Travel 

16-18 Hang Buom, Hanoi. T: (04) 926 3316, 3318, F: 

(04) 926 3136, 3566. Discover Halong Bay 61 Hang 

Bo, Hanoi. T: (04) 747 8006, 213 181, 6688, F: (04) 747 

4575. http://www.southpacifictravel.com.vn Ethnic 

Travel Viet Nam 35 Hang Giay, Hanoi. T: (04) 926 

1951, F: (04) 925 1950. http://www.ethnictravel.com.vn 

Exotissimo Travel Vietnam 26 Tran Nhat Duat, Hanoi. 

T: (04) 828 2150, ext. 273, F: (04) 828 2146. 

http://www.exotimssimo.com Explorer Tours 85 Hang 

Bo, Hanoi. T: (04) 923 0713, 923 1430, F: (04) 923 

0815. http://www.explorer.com.vn Handspan 

Adventure Travel 78 Ma May, Hanoi. T: (04) 926 2828, 

F: (04) 926 2792. http://www.handspan.com Sinh Cafe 

100 Ma May, Hanoi. T: (04) 926 0687, (04) 914 6100. 

Here are some tours to Vietnam offered by international 

adventure tour companies that include Hanoi in a part 

of a larger tour. Finally, you may find a Tourist 

Information Centre smack on the northern shore of 

Hoan Kiem Lake (on 7 Dinh Tien Hoang south of Cau 

Go). They tout tours by AsianaTravelMate, and unless 

they are giving you ingots of gold as a parting gift, much 

better deals are available elsewhere, even for a luxury 

tour. They also go by the name of Truly Halong Centre 

on 21 Luong NgocQuyen. Proceed with caution. Air 

tickets You'll find that booking an internal or even 

regional flight while you're in Vietnam will be much 

cheaper than doing it back home, through a travel agent 

or online through a provider like Kayak.com. Availability 


is good except during Christmas and the Tet holidays. 

We found a good booking office in the Old Quarter with 

English-speaking staff and generous operating hours. 


Domestic and International Booking Office 104 Cau 

Go, Hanoi. T: (04) 934 3144, 825 9811, F: (04) 926 

1200. 


Accommodation 

NORTH OF THE LAKE - BUDGET 


This covers the area roughly to the north of Hoan Kiem Lake, so everything north of Hang Bong, Hang Gai and 

Cau Go Roads. This is the heart of the backpacker district. For more mid-range places, see North of the lake - 

midrange. 

HANOI BACKPACKERS HOSTEL MA MAY - 5/5 

A hostel to be looked up to 

9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3935 1890; 

Email: info@hanoibackpackershostel.com 

Web: http://www.hanoibackpackershostel.com 

Officially opened on Hanoi's 1,000 year anniversary (October 10, 2010) HBH certainly makes its mark on Ma May, with a 

wide frontage, seven floors (yes, there's a lift) and a lively bar/reception area. Owned and run by the same guys as the Ngo 

Huyen hostel of the same name, it offers 160 beds in dorms and private rooms, making it the largest in Vietnam, if not 

Southeast Asia. Dorm rooms are either mixed or female-only and contain 12 generously sized, comfy looking beds. Each 

bed has large, lockable, underbed storage as well as a small locker neatly set under a bedside shelf, for keeping small items 

safely tucked away. Top floor rooms have bathrooms in the rooms whereas on lower floors there's one large, brightly tiled, 

shared bathroom containing shower and toilet cubicles and sinks. Private rooms are some of the smartest around: simply 

decorated and with fantastic slate tiled spacious bathrooms. The fifth floor is dedicated to a guest-only lounge area, 

containing sofas, beanbags, TV, table football, internet stations, a bar and a decent sized terrace overlooking the street. The 

ground floor bar and restaurant hosts regular events and serves up decent food and well-priced drinks. If you want a hostel 

and all that goes with it, it's hard to beat. 

Price range: Under USD 10 (Backpacker ) 

STARS HOTEL - 4.5/5 

Great value and light 

26 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem 

T: (04) 3828 1911; F: (04) 3828 1928 

Email: starshotel@vnn.vn 

Located in a quiet area of Old Quarter, Stars Hotel is a well-priced option in the flashpacker range. It's a narrow place but 

rooms are sizeable enough and the sense of space in those at the front is helped by large glass doors opening onto quaint 

balconies packed with plants. Furnishings are of the dark wood variety, and the stripey wallpaper and curtains aren't exactly 

the height of fashion, but bedding is radiantly white, bringing a hint of simplicity and light. Bathrooms are super clean and 

come with bathtub with shower over -- they even have a shower curtain. To top it off, you get a fridge and kettle -- not bad at 

this price range. Breakfast will be thrown in if you ask nicely and there's an internet station in reception. 

Price range: USD 10 to 20 (Flashpacker ) 

PHU HOA - 4/5 

Old-style Hanoi 

16 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3828 5173; 

Email: Phuhoa_hotel@yahoo.com.vn 

Sweet and sincere were the words one Travelfish user used to describe the owner of this place, and we couldn't agree more. 

It's a humble place, easy to miss, with just a small sign marking its location down a narrow corridor to the entrance, 

somewhere in the centre of the city block. Motorbikes may be parked in the lobby. When the family is downstairs, it may be 

filled with kids running around and the smells of food cooking and laundry drying. Or you may find a lone man, behind the 

reception desk, smiling and speaking very little English. All rooms have air-con and they are clean and bright. Rooms are up 

a steep and narrow staircase so you might struggle with a big case, but think of it as practice for trekking in Sapa. This is the 

best -- and one of the only -- options for private rooms in this price range. Highly recommended. 




MAY DE VILLE BACKPACKERS HOSTEL - 4/5 

A welcome new addition 

1 Hai Tuong Lane (off Ta Hien), Hoan Kiem 

T: (04) 3935 2468; F: (04) 3935 2488 

Email: info@maydevillebackpackershostel.com 

Web: http://maydevillebackpackershostel.com/ 

Towering above the Old Quarter skyline, this large new hotel clearly states its purpose in its name. But don't let that put you 

off if you don't fit into the backpacker category; reception is hotel-style and the private rooms are some of the best around in 

the price range. Choose from the double or triple rooms, both of which come with comfy beds, laptops and windows. Some of 

the bathrooms are unusual, with frosted glass walls, lending the otherwise standard rooms a modern touch. The seven dorm 

rooms each sleep six in comfortably sized bunk beds, each of which comes with a large locker, and there's a bathroom in the 

room. The pool room and movie theatre are ideal for when you're tired of traipsing the streets of Old Quarter, with comfy 

looking beanbags in the latter, and thank goodness there's a lift. The staff member we met was extremely friendly and spoke 

very good English. Recommended. 


LITTLE HANOI HOTEL - 4/5 

Super staff 

48 Hang Ga St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3828 4461; F: (04) 6270 2010 

Email: littlehanoihotel@yahoo.com 

Web: http://www.littlehanoihostel.com 

Being used to an escorted viewing of rooms, along with the statutory "Where you from?" we were surprised to be given the 

keys and let loose on the rooms here, but it made for a more relaxed look around and the friendly and helpful staff were 

chatty enough when we returned to reception. While the cheaper doubles are reasonable value, it's worth spending a bit 

more for a superior double at the front: they're well decorated and spacious with big windows overlooking Hang Ga and even 

have a bath. There's a six-bed dorm too but be sure to book in advance as it gets full quickly. If you reserve ahead they'll pick 

you up for free from the bus or train station. Good choice. Breakfast included in rates. 


CAMELLIA 6 HOTEL - 4/5 

Difficult to find fault 

16A Trung Yen Lane, (off Dinh Liet), Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3926 0119; F: (04) 3828 2404 

Email: contact@camelliahanoi.com 

Web: http://www.camelliahanoi.com 

This place sits down a quiet alley off Dinh Liet and receives a lot of praise for its friendly service and comfortable budget 

rooms. The lobby is hardly well-appointed, but functional, with tables for partaking of the complimentary breakfast, internet 

terminals and a few secondhand books.The cheapest rooms have windows giving on to the hotel's interior, but are still good 

value, while the deluxe rooms feature tubs, exterior windows, and some balconies – what's more, the beds are soft and all 

the rooms have fridges and hairdryers. Recommended. 


TUNG TRANG HOTEL - 3.5/5 

Welcoming and comfortable 

13 Tam Thuong St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3828 6267; 

Email: tungtranghotel@yahoo.com 

This family-run spot, on a hidden alley that's both quiet and full of local colour, has friendly staff and rooms that are spacious 

and clean – although one we were shown had a distinct smell of cigarette smoke. Rooms are at three price levels: the most 

expensive have balconies and rather pleasant views over the surrounding houses, the midrange rooms are at the rear 

without veranda and the cheapest, very small rooms, are in between with no views at all. Bathrooms, while small, are tidy 

enough and overall the place is well-maintained. The hotel is on Tam Thuong alley, just off Yen Thai St. 




THU GIANG GUEST HOUSE - 3.5/5 

Only for true budget hunters 

5A Tam Thuong St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3828 5734; 

Email: thugiangn@hotmail.com 

Web: http://www.thugianggh.com 

You'll find some of the cheapest rooms in Hanoi at the Thu Giang Guesthouse, but you need to be prepared to get what you 

pay for. The entrance feels more like someone’s front room than a hotel, with cooking smells to boot, and rooms are tucked 

away up narrow stairs, have the smallest beds we’ve seen, no other furniture, and could do with a coat of paint. The 

bathrooms are tiny and the cheapest rooms have an outside bath, which you may have to share. That said, it’s clean enough 

and we’ve had positive reports about the staff, and the front room has a balcony that juts out over the laneway; it's a true 

Asian experience to hang out on it. If you’re on your own but don’t want the dorm experience it’s as cheap as you’ll get. 

They’ve opened a second place on Hang Dieu, where there’s also a dorm room at $3 a bed. 


DONG A HOTEL - 2/5 

Good central budget place 

50 Ma May St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3828 2249; F: (04) 3926 2567 

Email: dongahotel@yahoo.com 

Sandwiched among some middling, tourist-oriented hotels, the Dong A has been offering the cheapest dorm beds in Hanoi 

for years. Strangely, they have had surprisingly few takers. The beds are basic and nowhere near the standard you'll find in 

other hostels, but they're comfortable enough and each comes with its own fan and electrical outlet, and a curtain for privacy 

during the night. They keep things clean and acceptably odour-free. You'll have to negotiate with your bunk mates as to 

when to turn off the overhead fluorescent lighting, but other than that, it's a good deal for the price. There are some caveats: 

only one small bathroom serves 20-plus beds and it can be difficult to get in, or out, during night hours. Still it's a good place 

if you want a cheap sleep, just want to catch some kip during the day, or you have an awkward layover that doesn't span the 

night. Rooms here, too, are decent. Though they have few exterior windows except on the upper floors, they are sufficiently 

well done-up, roomy and comfortable. Depends on why you're in Hanoi, but if you've just had all your cash cards stolen and 

are waiting for new ones to arrive in the mail, the dorm here is the place you want to be. 


NORTH OF THE LAKE - MIDRANGE 

This covers the area roughly to the north of Hoan Kiem Lake, so everything north of Hang Bong, Hang Gai and 

Cau Go Roads. This is the heart of the backpacker district. For budget places, see North of the lake - budget. 

HANOI COZY HOTEL 2 - 4.5/5 

Cozy indeed 

58 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3926 4761; F: (04) 3926 4761 

Email: info@hanoicozyhotel.com 

Web: http://www.hanoicozyhotel.com/ 

This place demonstrates how choosing a good name for a hotel can go a long way towards putting potential guests in the 

right frame of mind. It has no street frontage, only a sign above a long hallway leading to the hotel lobby, so it's a bit like 

entering into a hideaway. Once in, you need to go up via the lift and what you'll find is indeed cosy. The rooms we found here 

were compact and cute, with even the windowless rooms feeling like a snug spot you'd be happy to hibernate in all winter. 

Bathrooms are stylish and clean too; it's a well cared for place. Deluxe rooms are slightly larger than superiors and come 

with water and fruit, and standard rooms are similar but on lower floors, hence get less – or no – light. Staff are super friendly 

and can communicate easily in English. Given that it's priced at the lower end of midrange, this is exceptionally good value. 

Recommended. 

Price range: USD 20 to 50 (Midrange ) 



RENDEZVOUS HOTEL - 4/5 

Good vibe but not the cheapest option 

31 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3828 5777; F: (04) 3923 3874 

Email: bookings@hanoirendezvoushotel.com 

Web: http://www.hanoirendezvoushotel.com 

This is one of those rare places in Hanoi that has a real travellers' home feel to it. On our last visit reception was buzzing, 

with some guests on the internet stations, others enquiring about Ha Long Bay tours and a couple sitting in the bar/restaurant 

at the rear, chatting and working on laptops. It also looks like home -- or the home of a movie buff anyway – with replica 

paintings of classic movie posters on the walls, alongside the posters advertising the tours on offer. Fortunately the rooms 

are good too. Recently refurbished, they're neat, clean and comfortable, with LCD TVs and shower cubicles in the bathrooms. 

This all said, it may therefore come as no surprise to know that Rendezvous Hotel is managed by an Australian couple, Luke 

and Sarah, who as ex-travellers themselves have made every effort to meet the needs of foreign guests. It seems to be 

working. For the price, the rooms are reasonable value – particularly if you share a triple -- but perhaps not the cheap option 

the apparent backpacker focus may suggest. 


LUXE HOTEL - 4/5 

Noisy but interesting spot 

25 Hang Thiec, Hoan Kiem 

T: (04) 3923 2979; F: (04) 3923 2958 

Email: booking@hanoiluxehotel.com 

Web: http://www.hanoiluxehotel.com 

This 16-room hotel has decided to offer, in addition to rooms and eats, a banquet for the ears. Hang Thiec means 'tin shops', 

and even though the name goes back centuries, tin and its more modern cousins are still smithed here. The streets echo all 

day long with the pounding and grinding of metal and the cracking spark of acetylene torches. It's essentially an open-air 

factory cum hardware store, with a nice hotel in the middle. And if you're the type of person that's thinking, 'Well, actually, 

that sounds kind of cool!' then we highly recommend the Luxe Hotel. It's an attractive little budget place with good-value 

rooms and friendly staff. Rooms are clean, with decent bathrooms and are particularly good value if you squeeze three 

people in. 


CLASSIC STREET HOTEL (PHO CO HOTEL) - 4/5 

No shortage of character 

41 Hang Be St, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi 

T: (04) 3825 2421; F: (04) 3934 5920 

Email: info@classicstreet-phocohotel.com 

Web: http://www.classicstreet-phocohotel.com 

It doesn't look like much from the outside, but Classic Street Hotel (aka Pho Co Hotel) offers well-furnished rooms in both old 

and new wings. The basement dining area is on the gloomy side, but things get brighter when you move up to the unusual 

atrium that connects the front of the hotel to the back. Hardwood furniture and intricate iron handrails in the common spaces 

add to the hotel's pleasantly lived-in atmosphere. Rooms are divided into a few different areas, each accessed by separate 

entrances. A small staircase leads to the old rooms above reception, which have a rather tired feel and don't compare to 

those in the new wing (or the similar priced rooms at Cozy Hotel II for that matter). The new wing is accessed via a lift, and 

here you'll find smarter rooms with attractive dark wood furnishings. All rooms have windows, but the amount of light 

corresponds to the price, with balconies and/or large windows in the most expensive. Rooms in both the new and old wings 

come with air-con, TVs, desks, mini-bars, decent toiletries, internet access and, importantly, squidgy, well dressed beds. A 

Western/Vietnamese a la carte breakfast is included with all room rates, making Classic Street decent value for the money, 

especially considering its central Old Quarter location on lively Hang Be Street. 


ART HOTEL - 4/5 

Super nice 

65 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3923 3868; F: (04) 3923 3663 

Email: booking@hanoiarthotel.com 

Web: http://www.hanoiarthotel.com 

With a strapline of Touching emotion you'd expect something special, and it gets close. While the rooms don't all come with 

the flowers, heart logos and cakes shown on the website, they are quite tastefully done up -- if you can ignore the curtains 

and traditional paintings -- with feature walls, downlights, comfy furnishing and modern bathrooms. Charmingly the double 

rooms are categorised as with Quiet and with View; translate the former as no window, which knocks $5 off the price. The 

cheapest rooms are for single use, and would be a bit tight for two anyway, but at the other end of the spectrum the family 

suite is home to two double beds and has a large balcony and terrace with a view -- it's a steal for the price as well. Staff are 

very professional and keen to help. 




A25 HOTEL - 4/5 

Well equipped 

38 Hang Thiec, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3923 3796; F: (04) 3923 3795 

Part of a chain of hotels in Hanoi, the A25 on Hang Thiec has retained some of the positives we noted when it first opened -rooms 

are spacious and well-equipped, with decent rain showerheads in the bathrooms and a computer in each room -- but 

its, shall we say, seedier side is now more evident. Suffice to say, room prices are quoted for 24 hours, overnight and by the 

hour. Don't let that put you off though: if you can get past the motorbikes parked in the reception area and the numerous staff 

milling around, you'll find the staff speak reasonable English and the rooms are still good value. 


LUCKY STAR HOTEL - 3.5/5 

Shines brightly enough 

11 Bat Dan St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3923 1781; F: (04) 3923 1782 

Email: reservation@luckystarhotel.com 

Web: http://www.luckystarhotel.com.vn 

We have a soft spot for Lucky Star and although it's looking a bit tired now compared to our last visit, it's still a good value 

option in the midrange. There are a variety of rooms on offer. Those at the front have balconies, but it's a noisy street so you 

may prefer a room at the back. Many of the rooms have attractive mosaic floors and exposed brick walls, which the 

romantics might feel give them a New York feel, and all are fully equipped, with safes and really big fridges, though the TVs 

are disappointingly old-fashioned. The beds are done up well too, with comfortable thick mattresses and fluffy pillows and 

most bathrooms have small bathtubs. There's no lift, and six floors, so if you don't mind a walk you might get a good deal on 

the rooms at the top. 


ASIAN RUBY HOTEL - 3.5/5 

Choose your room carefully 

22A Ta Hien St., Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3935 1989; F: (04) 3935 1897 

Email: info@asianrubyhotelhanoi.com 

Web: http://www.asianrubyhotelhanoi.com 

It hardly seems any time since the Classic I Hotel's revamp and yet now it's been revamped again along with a change of 

name; it's now the Asian Ruby Hotel. The staff member who showed us round explained that all the rooms had been 

refurbished, but it's a shame they didn't do the same to the hallways, which don't instill much hope about what you're about to 

find behind the doors. However, push on, the rooms are worth a look. The superior rooms are windowless and a bit on the 

small side, but they're nicely fitted out, with modern laminate wood furniture and well-dressed beds, and they even come with 

dressing gowns, which is quite a perk for rooms at this price. The premium rooms are very spacious and bright and if you can 

get a discount they're one of the best options in the price range. Bathrooms are the icing on the cake, with glass shower 

cubicles and slate tiles. 


RISING DRAGON - 3/5 

Saved by the staff 

61 Hang Be Street, Hoan Kiem 

T: (04) 3926 3494; F: (04) 3926 3493 

Email: info@risingdragonhotel.com 

Web: http://www.risingdragonhotel.com/ 

Rising Dragon Hotel is part of a chain of hotels in Hanoi, all of which get rave online reviews. On first glance you'll wonder 

why. Tatty reception area is tatty, and the layout random, and barred windows look out onto an internal open-air space. 

Rooms, however, aren't bad at all. They're fitted out with oak-coloured laminate furnishing, and even the standard s are a 

reasonable size, although the twin beds are smaller than average and they only have a small window facing the inner 

courtyard. Family rooms are worth a look even only for a couple, as they're extremely spacious and well-priced. Overall, not 

a top choice, but good value in a central location and staff are extremely friendly and helpful. 




NEW STAR HOTEL HANOI - 3/5 

Feels more local than others 

9 Hang Thung St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3934 3608; F: (04) 3934 8502 

Email: newstarthotelhanoi@gmail.com 

Web: http://www.newstarhotelhanoi.com 

Finding this place was the result of a quest. Is there a hotel that's affordable, close to the lake, not in the dead centre of the 

Old Quarter, that's comfortable, well run, and doesn't participate in the frenzy for tourist dollars? Yes, there is. Now under a 

new name (it was Tien Thuy Hotel on our first visit) this gem still delivers. Friendly, English-speaking staff will show you room 

after room after room, and while there are just the three price grades, no two rooms seem quite the same. One we saw had a 

cathedral ceiling inlaid with terracotta tiles and exposed beams. Standard (‘superior') rooms are small but adequate and 

rooms at the front have balconies. Bathrooms are large and rooms come with air-con and TV. Hang Thung Street is quite 

untouristed, so the place has more of a local feel than those just a block or two north. 


PRINCE 1 HOTEL - 2.5/5 

Huge rooms available 

51 Luong Ngoc Quyen St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3828 0155; F: (04) 3828 0156 

Email: prince1hotel@gmail.com 

Web: http://www.hanoiprincehotel.com 

The spacious reception area and sweeping staircase may have seen better days, but at least it makes Prince I light and airy, 

which is a pleasant change from some of the joints we see. The cheapest rooms are in the middle of the hotel and have no 

window, though are just about big enough not to feel claustrophobic. If you want space, go for a room at the front, which are 

as big as the suites we've seen at pricier places, with lots of windows and a small balcony and a double and single bed. Price 

is the same no matter how many people stay, even though breakfast is included. It's all solid darkwood furniture and the 

rooms aren't pretty, but they're good value in a central location. Staff are polite and speak good English. Don't get confused 

with the place next door at 53A – named The Prince Cafe Hotel -- which is not recommended. 


AROUND THE LAKE 

This is the roughly triangular area with Hoan Kiem Lake at the centre. Bordered to the south by Hai Ba Trung, this 

has a mix of midrange to upper lodgings. 

HOTEL SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI - 4.5/5 

Splurge if you can: Outstanding! 

15 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3826 6919; F: (04) 3826 6920 

Email: sofitelhanoi@hn.vnn.vn 

Web: http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1555-sofitel-legend-metropole-hanoi/index.shtml 

If you love to travel in comfort and luxury, and have the money to pay for it, you don't need to shop around: this is the place. 

Dating back to 1901, the Hanoi Metropole is without doubt Hanoi's colonial classic, with a grandeur and timeless charm 

unmatched in the city, or elsewhere in the region. Somerset Maugham, Graham Greene and even Jane Fonda have padded 

their way through the hotel's polished wooden corridors and lounged in the lovely, atmospheric rooms. The hotel built a new 

second building in 1996 and although you may be tempted towards the Historical Wing, correctly expecting the rooms to offer 

old world charm, the rooms in the Opera Wing are also stunning and will suit those looking for more modern yet still classic 

styling. There are seven types of rooms and if you can afford it, it's worth upgrading to the Grand Luxury or Grand Premium 

rooms -- the latter of which comes with Club Metropole privileges, including butler service. Of course, if you have more than 

$2,000 a night to spend you could stop over in one of the Legendary Suites or the Grand Prestige Suite, home to many a 

visiting dignitary. Be warned that not all rooms include breakfast or internet. If you get the chance, try out their Sunday 

brunch buffet -- it's world class. The cherry on top is the location, a short walk from Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter and a 

stone's throw from the Opera House. Excellent for a romantic getaway, long sleep-in and breakfast in bed. Very 

knowledgeable and well-trained staff. Highly recommended. 

Price range: USD 100+ (Luxury ) 



MAISON D'HANOI - 4/5 

Delivers on luxury promise 

35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3938 0999; F: (04) 3938 0989 

Email: info@hanovahotel.com 

Web: http://www.hanovahotel.com/ 

With a uniformed concierge opening the door and one of the chicest, most aesthetically pleasing reception areas around, this 

place lives up to its high-end name. Staff are as professional as you'd expect, but friendly and sweet with it, and the rooms 

really are good enough to eat. They are luxury priced, but at least they actually deliver when it comes to luxury -- for instance, 

all the beds are feather. They have a fine dining restaurant that looks to be a good place to try even if you're not staying here, 

and a buffet breakfast is included for guests. Walk-in rates are much lower than on their website. Highly recommended. 

Price range: USD 50 to 100 (Toprange ) 

GOLDEN RICE HOTEL - 4/5 

Top end at midrange prices 

36 Hang Trong St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3938 2929; F: (04) 3824 7449 

Email: booking@goldenricehotel.com 

Web: http://www.goldenricehotel.com 

We walked into this hotel by mistake when aiming for the Golden Lotus a few doors down, and boy are we glad we did. It's 

been there 17 years -- an eternity by Hanoi standards -- but was completely refurbished in 2011, including the welcome 

addition of a lift. We were shown the suite first and are desperately trying to think of an excuse to stay there for a night; not 

only is the room itself huge but there's a large private roof terrace with outstanding views. Furniture in all the rooms is 

beautifully crafted and stylish in a traditional sense, and rooms are immaculately turned out and well-equipped. Fantastic 

discounts can be negotiated or booked online in low season making it by far the best choice in the price bracket. Highly 

recommended. 


GOLDEN LOTUS HOTEL - 4/5 

Beautiful rooms 

32 Hang Trong St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3928 8583; F: (04) 3928 8584 

Email: goldenlotushotel@fpt.vn 

Web: http://www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn 

The Golden Lotus is one of our top picks for its price range. The interior design is tastefully modern yet cosy, with dazzling 

aesthetic touches and great attention to detail. Rooms are spacious too, with a seating area equipped with pretty tea sets. 

Those at the front come with a balcony and the cheaper rooms at the back make up for the lack of light with a separate bath 

and shower cubicle, set in a glass fronted bathroom. They're the sort of rooms you'd pay a lot more for elsewhere. Located 

on fashionable Hang Trong St, you're but a short walk from chic cafes, endless galleries and of course oodles of noodles. 

Highly recommended. 


JOSEPH'S HOTEL - 3.5/5 

Boutique hotel in a quiet location 

5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3938 1048; F: (04) 3938 1046 

Email: info@josephshotel.com 

Web: http://www.josephshotel.com 

Joseph's Hotel is not a budget option but offers 10 simply decorated, comfortable rooms in a quiet location on Au Trieu St, 

near the cathedral and away from the hectic pace of central Old Quarter. It's easy to miss as their signage is simply the hotel 

name etched on the glass front doors, so look out for a glass-fronted building about halfway down the street on the cathedral 

side. Although it's not quite as fresh and new as when we last visited, just after opening, it's been well maintained, with 

tastefully decorated rooms, wooden floors and springy beds decked in quality white linen. Bathrooms are compact but have a 

shower cubicle. Superior rooms are of similar quality to the deluxe, but slightly smaller. Breakfast is served in a clean and 

bright area at the back of the ground floor; their chef will freshly prepare eggs, bacon and sausages or, if preferred, pho. 

Definitely worth a look. 




IMPRESSIVE HOTEL - 3.5/5 

Doesn't quite live up to the name, but not bad 

56 Au Trieu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi 

T: (04) 3938 1590; 

Email: impressivehotel@gmail.com 

Web: http://impressivehotel.com 

A stone's throw from St Joseph's Cathedral on quiet Au Trieu Street between Ly Quoc Su and Phu Doan, Impressive Hotel is 

in a chic part of the Old Quarter with several decent restaurants and boutiques nearby. Although it's a fairly ordinary hotel 

that we didn't find all that "impressive", it is a solid choice for the midrange traveller in an excellent location. Rooms are 

lacking in character but are comfortable, fresh and well equipped with light wood furnishings, recessed lighting, clean white 

bedding, flat-screen TVs, desktop computers with internet connection and free breakfast. Bathrooms are small but smart with 

fake pebble floors and modern hot water heaters. Standards are cosy, though not tiny, but pricier rooms get you more space 

and balconies, some of which open to pretty good views from the higher floors. The hotel also has two teeny lifts big enough 

for little more than two people and a small internet cafe in the lobby. 


HOTEL DE L'OPERA - 3.5/5 

A tactile palace 

29 Trang Tien Street, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 6282 5555; F: (04) 6282 2888 

Email: contact@hoteldelopera.com 

Web: http://www.hoteldelopera.com/ 

This new hotel, opened in June 2011, is a noteworthy addition to the Opera House area, introducing some bling between the 

classic style of the Metropole and the conventionalism of the Hilton. All the features and furnishings, from the velvet padded 

walls and gold tassels in reception to the pearlescent floor tiles in the bathrooms, are exquisite and as soon as you enter you 

are transported away from the streets of Hanoi to a world where the beds come up to your waist and you want to touch 

everything. Standard rooms are quite small, but you can forgive a room many things when it comes with L'Occitane toiletries 

and a fluffy gown. We've heard reports that there are still a few kinks that need ironing out, but on the face of it it's the most 

colourful of the five-star options. Look online for special deals, including dinner in their very swish restaurant. 


HANOI BACKPACKERS HOSTEL - 3.5/5 

The original hostel 

48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3828 5372; 

Email: info@hanoibackpackershostel.com 

Web: http://www.hanoibackpackershostel.com 

Located on a sidestreet near St Joe's cathedral, the original Hanoi hostel continues pulling in the crowds, despite the opening 

of their new, second location on Ma May, and the other hostels springing up over town. Under Australian management, the 

Hanoi Backpackers Hostel has spotless, air-con dorms (both mixed and women-only) along with a selection of very large 

double rooms. A ground floor restaurant provides a free basic breakfast and other snacks and a rooftop bar offers daily 

happy hours and Sunday barbecues. making meeting other travellers easy. They now also occupy a second building across 

the road, so don't be surprised if you're taken there -- it's not any sort of scam. As if it wasn't good enough already, we hear 

there's a refurb coming up this year to bring it up to the same quality as the Ma May branch. It's also worth noting that they 

offer their own, very well rated, Ha Long Bay tour – the Rock Long Rock Hard tour -- which includes rock climbing, tubing, 

wake-boarding and kayak trips and overnight stays on their private Castaway Island. This constitutes a very reliable first stop 

if booking any kind of tour, even if you aren't staying here. Highly recommended. 


CENTRAL BACKPACKERS' HOSTEL - 3.5/5 

Cheap, cheap, cheap! 

16 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi 

T: (04) 3938 1849; 

Email: centralbackpackershanoi@gmail.com 

Web: http://www.centralbackpackershostel.com 

True to its name, Central Backpackers' Hostel is located right in the Old Quarter, a few blocks west of Hoan Kiem Lake on Ly 

Quoc Su. Eight-bed bunk dorms and a couple of private rooms all come equipped with air-con, and while they're not huge, 

they appear well maintained with sturdy mattresses and clean sheets. On the down side, one single-shower bathroom is all 

that's provided for an eight bed dorm, which could be an issue if needing to catch a morning departure. Still, large lockers 

and free WiFi are provided and, best of all, the hostel offers free beer for one hour every evening. That's right, free beer! A 

range of tours are also available, including cheap trips to Ha Long Bay and Sapa. Staff weren't all that friendly when we 

visited, but with $5 per night beds and a free beer hour, we can't imagine their salaries are much to smile about. 




HILTON HANOI OPERA - 3/5 

Good option for business travellers 

1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem District 

T: (04) 3933 0500; F: (04) 3933 0530 

Email: frontofficeadmin.hanoi@hilton.com 

Web: http://www.hanoi.hilton.com 

The fact it was voted Best Business Hotel in Hanoi in 2010 gives you an idea of its nature and, despite some stylish touches 

in the executive rooms, such as decorative wallpaper above the bed and large wall mirrors, it still lacks a bit of soul. It's a 

five-star hotel, and delivers against the expectations that sets -- including spacious rooms, courteous and helpful staff, and a 

well-placed pool. So there's certainly nothing wrong with the Hilton Hanoi Opera, particularly if you're a business traveller or 

want to take advantage of its leisure facilities. But if you're looking for somewhere with character there are plenty of quality 

alternatives. Deluxe and executive rooms are similar but the latter comes with breakfast and business services. 


FIRST CHOICE HOTEL - 3/5 

Not our first choice but not altogether bad 

60 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi 

T: (04) 3928 9770; F: (04) 3928 9769 

Email: booking@hanoifirstchoicehotel.com 

Web: http://www.hanoifirstchoicehotel.com 

Although a bit cheaper and more shabby than its larger sibling -- nearby Impressive Hotel which is owned by the same folks 

-- First Choice isn't necessarily a bad choice. Like Impressive, First Choice's rooms are clean and simply decorated with 

traditional art and soft furnishings, but bathrooms are cramped and the cheapest "superior" rooms are very small and 

windowless. Windowless rooms might be fine for light sleepers -- and for vampires -- but the "deluxe" offers a lot more space 

and a balcony, and these are comparable to, but still cheaper than, the least expensive rooms at Impressive. Unlike 

Impressive, however, reception and the stairwells at First Choice are a bit tatty, there's a permeating smell of food in the 

common spaces, and within the rooms we found tiny shower cubicles with exposed nails where soap trays used to be. Still, 

all rooms have air-con and hot water, and the central location near St Josephs Cathedral is a good one. Breakfast will cost 

you $5 extra and is taken in a soulless reception area, so we'd recommend hitting Marilyn's down the road instead. If location 

isn't a consideration, you’ll get more for your money at somewhere like Cozy Hotel II on Hang Be. 



Eat and meet 

STREET FOOD 

VIETNAMESE 

OTHER ASIAN 

WESTERN 

SNACKING 

DRINKING 



Sights and activities 


HO CHI MINH MEMORIAL COMPLEX 

Though Uncle Ho himself would have considered this a massive waste of land that could have been used for agriculture 

or production, a sizable complex constructed around a palace left over from the French era is devoted to the man in 

Hanoi. In fact, the man is still there and you can see him in person. Touring the whole complex will take several hours at a 

minimum, but you can experience any facet a la carte if you're pressed for time. Especially in the mornings when the 

mausoleum is running, the complex is only accessible via the western side on 5 Ngoc Ha St. A number of guards have 

the rather boring job of herding you in the right direction. If you are set on viewing Ho Chi Minh's body in state at the 

mausoleum, best start early as it closes well before lunch, at 11:00. 

HO CHI MINH'S MAUSOLEUM 

If you follow the flow of the complex, the first stop is to see the preserved remains of the man himself. After dedicating his 

life to the liberation of his country from foreign rule, and seeing it freed from French domination, Ho Chi Minh died before 

the next war -- the one with the United States -- was decided. Afterwards, with Soviet assistance, his body was preserved 

for posterity. 

Ho Chi Minh's body is kept in state in an impressively austere, Russian-style mausoleum. The entry is like that of an 

amusement park ride, snaking along, forwards and back, to its final destination. Lines can be quite long, especially when 

gaggles of school children on field trips are being led through. Even then, at the end of the line, there's a good distance to 

go and viewers are only allowed to proceed one group at a time. You'll have to check any photographic equipment before 

entering as pictures of the body are not permitted. Once inside, you'll only get a minute or so with Bac Ho. After 40 years 

of preservation, Vietnam's founding father is looking pretty good -- a bit like he's just taking a nap. Teams of experts from 

Russia still visit regularly to consult and help out on the preservation. 

None of this is what Ho Chi Minh wanted: He requested that he be cremated and his ashes spread in three areas in 

northern, central and southern Vietnam. A grave plot was, to his mind, a waste of land that might be otherwise 

productively used. But it was exactly this kind of earnest devotion to his country that made it impossible for his successors 

to honour his wishes. The cult of personality surrounding Ho Chi Minh was their best bet for keeping the country united 

after the war, and to preserve that, his body had to be preserved as well. The Romanesque structure is modelled after the 

one in Moscow where Lenin is on display. He, too, had requested only a modest burial. 

It's worth mentioning that this sight is Vietnam's holiest of holies. A reverential and respectful attitude is obligatory, and 

this is the one place where foreign visitors might be vigorously chastised, or even removed, by uniformed guards. There's 

an elaborate list of rules as you enter which you should try to adhere to, including prohibitions against the wearing of an 

'unserious costume,' or being in a 'status of sickness'. So if you get a case of the giggles, bite the inside of your cheek. 

PRESIDENTIAL PALACE AND HO CHI MINH'S HOUSE ON STILTS 

Just to the north of Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum sits the presidential palace, appropriated from the French after they were 

routed and which you can't enter, and Ho Chi Minh's bungalow, often referred to as his House on Stilts. Set in a stretch of 

mango tree-filled parkland around a small pond, this is a refreshing spot to take a wander around. Built of polished wood, 

Ho Chi Minh's bungalow has a light and airy feel, or as the brochure reads Uncle Ho's House on Stilts is a symbol of his 

simplicity and gentleness. There are only some rooms here, but all of them are full of wind, light and fragrance from the 

garden... There's also a display of the first president's collection of 'used cars'. 

ONE PILLAR PAGODA 

Another popular stop on the tour group trail, masses line up to climb the steps to the small shrine within the gazebo-like 

structure. For most Western visitors it may be enough to take a glance at it as they leave the Ho Chi Minh Museum. 

Originally built in 1049 of wood, the pagoda was vandalised and burned by the French in 1954 as they retreated from 

Hanoi, only to be rebuilt the following year. The pagoda was built by Emperor Ly Thai To during the Ly Dynasty. Legend 

states that the Emperor had a dream that he was given a son by the goddess of mercy, Quan An, while seated on a lotus 

flower. Soon afterwards, the Emperor married a peasant girl and had a son. The Emperor built the pagoda to honour the 

goddess, and it contains a statue of her and many sculptures of lotus flowers. Built over a lotus pond, the One Pillar 

Pagoda is extremely popular with childless couples and is also believed to have miraculous healing powers. During the 

summer, the surrounding pond is covered in lotus blossoms. 



HO CHI MINH MUSEUM 

Looking at the massive white lotus-shaped structure that houses the Ho Chi Minh Museum's collection, one might wonder 

how so much real estate could be dedicated to one man. You'll pass through airport-style security to gain access, and the 

first layer of exhibits is much what you'd expect: a photo-history of Uncle Ho's life with brief but informative captions in 

French, English and Vietnamese. From there, nothing is left to do but wander up to the fourth floor, where one is greeted 

by a gilded statue of the man of the hour. Then come some signs that this is not a typical Vietnamese museum: like, what 

is that huge cloud-shaped thingy doing behind Ho Chi Minh, and why is his head encircled by the sun-like a halo? It 

makes sense, in a way, but isn't it all a little over-the-top, even for Vietnam? 

As you proceed up the steps to the right to begin a tour of the upper gallery, the situation doesn't become any clearer. 

The visitor is led through a series of exhibits, which aren't really museum exhibits at all: They're art installations, in the 

tradition of the 1970s art scene. 

Back then, they might have called them 'happenings,' and it's startling (if slightly embarrassing) to find a place in Vietnam 

where they are actually still happening. Some of the exhibits are just plain incomprehensible: The tram-line, 

human-powered funicular display, even after carefully studying the adjacent explanatory texts, is still a mystery to us. 

Each exhibit focuses on one of eight themes: human hope and achievement versus the degradations of fascism, or Ho 

Chi Minh's hideout in Cao Bang Cave rendered as a human brain. It's post-modernism influenced by pop art, with a heavy 

dose of socialist realism. And in the tradition of Soviet collectivist art, none of the creators are credited by name. 

The whole thing is utterly anachronistic, and sort of mind-blowing, which is to say, something you absolutely must see to 

believe. It's hard to imagine what contemporary Vietnamese who visit here would make of the place. Small children may 

subsequently suffer from very confusing dreams for years to come. 

The explanation for how this odd museum came into being is quite simple. After the war with the US ended in 1975, the 

art world was well into the post-modernist era. The museum was made possible by Vietnam's strongest post-war ally, the 

then-Soviet Union, with its own history of artistic expression and its own take on modernity. Planning began in 1977, 

though construction only got under way in 1985, and the museum opened in 1990 on the anniversary of Ho Chi Minh's 

birth. The museum is actually a synthesis of various revolutionary and anarchistic artistic movements that would require 

an advanced degree in modern art to properly unravel, and all of which were dead and buried by the time the museum 

actually opened. 

Strewn throughout the exhibits, as if the surrounding art actually provided meaningful context, are rather prosaic if 

historically important documents preserved in plexi-glass flip books to be perused by visitors. Most of the documents are 

in French and we saw no serious perusing going on during our visit. People were distracted by, oh, maybe the giant 

pineapple surrounded by yet-more-massive bananas. 

So, definitely stop in to the happening in progress while you're in Vietnam. The Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi is not 

uniquely Vietnamese: It's flat out unique. 



TEMPLE OF LITERATURE 

The Temple of Literature is an obligatory stop on any Hanoi tour. It's usually packed, but never so much that there isn't 

room to stroll around. It's a good site, but if you're not much for culture, it needn't be near the top of your list of things to 

do. This is the site of Vietnam's first national university. The 'temple' moniker attests to how inextricably linked learning 

and religion were back in the year 1070 when it was built by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong. In this case, it was actually a 

temple dedicated to the cult of Confucius, breaking the monopoly over education previously held by Buddhism. At almost 

1,000 years old, it's one of the few remaining examples of traditional Vietnamese architecture still standing in Hanoi. 

For contemporary Vietnamese, it functions as a shrine to Confucius himself, whose influence is still very much a part of 

Vietnamese culture, and it serves as a testament to Vietnam's long history of striving for educational excellence. It was 

initially reserved for Mandarins and high-ranking civil servants, but later outstanding students of no particular rank were 

also educated here. 

The Temple of Literature is set on a large, rectangular complex encompassing five walled courtyards connected by 

gateways, among green gardens and human-made reflecting pools. 

The first area of interest is the Well of Heavenly Clarity beside which there are 82 tortoise-carrying stellae, (there were 

originally 117), which list the names, places of birth and achievements of graduate students who accomplished 

exceptional results during the Le Dynasty. One can't fail to notice that the names on some of the stellae have been 

scratched out -- these are scholars who subsequently met with some sort of disgrace or royal disapproval, and were 

expunged from the record. 

Each of the buildings had a specific purpose and meaning, though some have been given over to exhibits charting the 

history of the temple. The pamphlet handed out to visitors on arrival is fairly helpful, and blissfully free of grammatical 

errors (befitting a sight dedicated to education) but in order to really get a sense of what you're looking at, a guide is 

highly recommended. We booked an excellent English-speaking guide at the gate for 80,000 dong (regardless of the size 

of the group) plus a tip at the end. 

Some of the temple is comparatively new. The housing in the back was lost in a fire a few decades ago, and the current 

structures are of more modern vintage in the spirit of the old buildings. There is also a statue dedicated to Chu Van An 

(after whom at least one street in every Vietnamese city is named) who is considered the greatest scholar in Vietnam's 

history -- the bronze likeness dates back to only 2003. 

At the rear of the gardens is a large sanctuary with an impressive Confucian statue, and in the forecourt of this sanctuary 

traditional music is played when a sufficiently large crowd gathers. 

The complex backs onto Nguyen Thai Hoc St, but the entrance is on Quoc Tu Giang. The temple makes for a good 

sanctuary from both the touts and the traffic. 

ST JOSEPH'S CATHEDRAL 

This Catholic cathedral was completed in 1887 by Monseigneur Pigneau de Behaine. It was closed in 1975 upon 

reunification of Vietnam, and was not reopened until 1985. The neo-gothic style of the cathedral looks somewhat out of 

place in the busy streets of Hanoi, although it is built in what is considered to be the French quarter of the city. The church 

itself has a striking presence with its two large square towers and can be visited any day of the week, making a quiet 

escape from the noisy Hanoi streets. 

If you happen to be in Hanoi for Christmas, this is the place to visit. The courtyard of the church becomes a huge 

gathering point and takes on a real carnival atmosphere, with fairy floss vendors and the like. 



VIETNAM MILITARY HISTORY MUSEUM 

The Vietnam Military History Museum, also known as the War or Army Museum, has a comprehensive and stimulating 

collection of war relics charting Vietnam's struggle for liberation. If you're only going to see one war museum in Vietnam 

this should be it. The museum is arranged in a series of galleries that start with the period of Chinese colonisation, 

through to the French period, and then on to the American War and more recent skirmishes. There is a lot to see, so pace 

yourself, or decide what's really of interest to you. If you're mainly interested in the American War, you may have to skip 

through some of the earlier exhibits, or risk being too overloaded with information to really appreciate it. 

The displays are generally well done and sometimes fascinating with more than the usual collection of guns, spears, and 

ammo, as well as a good deal of photojournalism and historical background provided in English (history as seen through 

the eyes of the Vietnamese government, naturally, but still interesting). And you may also want to save some energy for 

the inventive display outside. 

Outside, at the back of the museum, a huge pyramid has been put together by an artist out of the wreckage of a B-52, an 

F-111 and a French transport plane, all of which were shot down. At the centre is a billboard-sized photographic blow up 

of a female Viet Cong soldier dragging the wing of an American plane across the beach: It's sort of 'pop art' meets 

'socialist realism' and the whole effect is graphically dynamic and strangely resonant. 

Other tools of war are more traditionally displayed: a MIG fighter, a surface-to-air missile and plenty of spent ordnance. 

Alongside the Military Museum is a 59m high ancient flag tower that marks what was once Hanoi's tallest point. From here, 

enjoy unbeatable panoramic views of the city. Watch your head on the climb up though. The flag tower was once part of 

the Hanoi Citadel built in 1812. 

As you leave the museum, take a look across the street, where there's a park featuring a monumental statue of Lenin. Not 

a whole lot of those left around anymore... 

VIETNAM NATIONAL FINE ARTS MUSEUM 

Set behind the Temple of Literature, this is a sight that's not usually on the tour group route, but should be. While not 

world-class, it's one of the best in Vietnam and a visit will provide a good insight into Vietnamese culture and history. The 

main building is a large, three-storey colonial style building -- a work of art in itself -- which contains the permanent 

exhibits, arranged chronologically from bottom to top. 

As you enter, the first room contains some truly ancient archaeological finds that are up to 10,000 years old. Many are 

just old bits and pieces, such as axe and spear heads and small figurative pieces, but they are impressively old and 

fascinatingly intricate in design. The 'rubbings' of drum heads are uninspiring and it's better to view the actual drums at 

the History Museum. 

Continuing to the right is a very good overview of Vietnamese art before 1800, and the offerings become much more 

interesting as you complete the first floor circuit. All the exhibits are generally well-captioned, though look closely: Some 

works are reproductions (and not very good ones at that) and are labelled as such. 

Gallery five in the back houses some exquisite offerings from the Le dynasties, including two large renderings of the 

Bodhisattva and the 'thousand-eyed, thousand armed' goddess Guan Yin. These are stock figures at many Buddhist 

temples, but the ones here represent the apogee of the form in Vietnam, and are mind-bogglingly intricate in design. 

There is also a 'Buddha Entering Nirvana' or 'Reclining Buddha' made of lacquered wood that is so sensuously feminine 

in design, one wonders if the artist were really trying to communicate the bliss of nirvana or some other kind of bliss. 

The last stop on the first floor -- gallery eight -- houses some of the best art Vietnam has ever produced. The Tay Son 

dynasty didn't last long, towards the end of the 1700s, but the realistic, figurative sculpture from this period is outstanding. 

Larger than life and made of lacquered wood, each has an eerie presence and a strong personality. They are all meant to 

be monks, but it's suspected that the artists of the period were using the pretext of religious art to express something 

about human nature and the plight of the common people. 

The visual arts are more heavily represented on the upper floors than are the plastic arts, but some sculptures are 

positioned here and there. Much of it seems to imitate European trends, though more authentically Asian works on rice 

paper, such as 'A Carp Playing with the Moon', offer a more stirring aesthetic experience. By the time the Communist era 

begins, all bets are off as socialist realism takes over, and the art becomes about as meaningful as a mailbox (though, 

some of it shows considerable technique and is pretty to look at). Every gallery features a flip book with detailed 

information in English, French, Japanese and Chinese. 

The three-storey annex to the left as you enter houses temporary exhibits. While the first floor has a permanent display of 

ceramics, the two floors above change periodically -- on our last visit in early 2010, there were displays of pop art and 

Vietnamese decorative arts. 

A store on premises sells reproductions and if you're a serious art collector, some of the contemporary art on display can 

be purchased by special arrangement. 



HOAN KIEM LAKE 

Hoan Kiem Lake, 'Lake of the Restored Sword', forms the centrepiece of Hanoi. The name of the lake comes from a 

legend in which Emperor Le Loi, worried about the advancing Chinese, was boating on the lake when a giant tortoise rose 

from the murky waters. The tortoise presented him with a magical sword with which he could strike down all foes. The 

tortoise made Le Loi promise to return the sword upon the defeat of the Chinese. True to his word, after defeating the 

invaders from the north, Le Loi came back to the lake, and the tortoise emerged from the waters to reclaim the sword. 

Since then, the lake has been known as the Lake of the Restored Sword. A solitary pagoda on an islet in the middle of the 

lake has been built in the tortoise's honour, which cannot be visited. At the northeastern side of the lake sits Ngoc Son 

Pagoda, which is easy to visit and a popular spot. 

The pleasant surroundings of the lake make for a perfect break to munch out on a baguette or finish off a book. Park 

benches are dotted all round, though the east side is wider and slightly quieter. Around sunset it is difficult to find a free 

seat as young couples congregate to spend time in each other's arms. Early in the morning the lakeside is a popular 

venue for tai chi and exercise. 

Hours: 

Travel info 

NGOC SON PAGODA 

At the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake, just down the street from the Water Puppet Theatre, sits Ngoc Son Pagoda, or 

Pagoda of the Jade Mountain. It's on an islet accessed via an old red wooden bridge, the 'Bridge of the Rising Sun.' The 

site has been used as a temple since ancient times, but most of the current structures were built during the 19th century. 

It offers an eclectic variety of forefathers for Vietnamese to pay homage to: The pagoda honours Confucian and Taoist 

notables, as well as Van Xuong, the spirit of the intellectuals, and national hero Tran Hung Dao, among others. It's a 

testament to how ancestor worship trumps Buddhism in the belief system of the average Vietnamese pagoda-goer. At the 

entrance to the bridge are two monuments constructed in 1864, one representing an ink brush (a tall tower) and the other 

an inkwell (a hollow rock held by three frogs). In the early morning of the festival of Doan Ngo, held on the fifth day of the 

fifth month, the shadow of the brush is positioned at the centre of the inkwell. 

There's often a steady river of tourists streaming in and out of the pagoda, though luckily quite a few come to light incense 

and offer prayers, so it's not just a tourist attraction. 

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF VIETNAMESE HISTORY 

The National Museum of Vietnamese History is housed in a magnificent example of Indochinese architecture, which was 

until 1910 the French consulate and the residence of the governor general. The building was also home to the Ecole 

Francaise d'Extreme Orient (EFEO), during which time it became a museum to exhibit EFEO finds. Over time the building 

deteriorated, and it was not until the early 1930s, following a seven-year renovation, that what you can see now was 

realised. The entrance gives on to an impressive two-storey rotunda with exhibits all around and in many galleries to the 

rear. 

The contents are as fascinating as the building. The ground floor traces Vietnam's ancient history, from the first Neolithic 

finds through to those of the 15th century. Some items date back as far as 10,000 BC and feature more than just the 

requisite pottery shards and axe heads. The jewellery, tools and household items archaeologists have unearthed -- along 

with human and animal remains -- paint a compelling picture of the people who inhabited the region long ago, and provide 

a sense of how they are tied to Vietnam's modern inhabitants. There's also an excellent selection of bronze drums dating 

back as far as 500 BC. Ancient military history is also touched on. Corny dioramas of famous battles aside, some of the 

wooden spikes used by Tran Hung Dao to skewer the Mongolian fleet in 1288 are on display. 

The upstairs of the rotunda has a small though impressive collection of Champa pieces -- if you missed the Champa 

Museum in Da Nang, now is your chance. The rest of the second floor goes from the 15th century up to the 20th. Some 

familiar sights are here in terms of temple statuary and pearl-inlay furniture, but the statue of Guan Yin -- the 'thousand 

armed, thousand eyed' manifestation of the Bodhisattva -- is second only to the one in the Fine Arts Museum 

Other unusual exhibits include a scroll from the 1920s adorned with the characters for Long Life written 100 different ways. 

There's also a sculpture garden on the west side of the building where some old pieces have been left to suffer the 

ravages of acid rain, including a stellae bearing the oldest epitaph in Southeast Asia, dating from the 3rd century AD. 

There's a charge for photographing the exhibits, and the price goes up if you want them to open the displays to eliminate 

the glare. Guided tours are available on request. 

WEST LAKE 

Also known as Ho Tay or Lake of Mist, this large lake covers a sizeable swath of northwest Hanoi. Legend states that the 

lake was formed by the footprint of a golden calf that was running towards the sound of a giant bell. In its heyday, the lake 

was lined by royal palaces which are now mostly gone, replaced by high-end housing and luxury hotels. If you have the 

time, it is a pleasant enough walk to the lake. From the Old Quarter, take Phan Ding Phung St to see some of Hanoi's 

swishest villas, and while you're in the area, pop into Quan Thanh and Tran Quoc pagodas before taking a swan boat ride 

on the lake. 



HOA LO PRISON (HANOI HILTON) 

Few surviving historical vestiges attest as vividly and pointedly to Vietnam's complicated journey through the 20th century 

as Hoa Lo — better known as the Hanoi Hilton. The French simply called it Maison Centrale, and apparently razed one of 

the local outlying craft villages when they picked out the site for this, the largest of the French Indochinese prisons. 

Construction was completed in 1896, and the city has grown around it to such an extent that it is now located near the 

town centre. 

The Hanoi Hilton's original purpose was to function as the end of the assembly line for the colonial system of 

jurisprudence, detaining Vietnamese 'criminals'. More often than not, this meant anti-colonial revolutionaries, otherwise 

known to the Vietnamese as 'revered heroes and martyrs'. It was the inmates who dubbed it Hoa Lo, which means 'fiery 

furnace'. 

Surviving Hoa Lo — or better yet, escaping from it — gave a Viet Minh cadre powerful credentials, and more than a few of 

those who did went on to become central figures in the Communist Party. The museum's curators focus primarily on this 

period of the prison's history, but after the French were ousted in 1954 it was used to incarcerate a new set of Vietnamese 

'criminals': counter-revolutionaries opposed to the growing influence of the party. 

Then, during the American War, yet another new group of 'liberators' — uh, that is, despicable imperialist 'bandits' — 

were detained in the form of downed American pilots. It was when Hoa Lo served as a prisoner of war camp that it once 

again received a new, unofficial name: the Hanoi Hilton. The Vietnamese still maintain that American prisoners were 

well-treated, but published memoirs by former inmates speak of torture, murder, medical neglect, and being fed food 

contaminated with faeces. The treatment was so bad here that some observers still maintain it constitutes a war crime. 

The Hanoi Hilton name became so resonant in popular culture that when the Hilton Corporation finally opened a hotel in 

Hanoi 1999, they had to give it the awkward name 'The Hilton Hanoi Opera' to avoid tapping into any unsavoury 

associations. 

For some Americans, surviving the Hanoi Hilton boosted their credentials, as it did their Viet Minh predecessors. One 

former prisoner became the first US ambassador to Vietnam and another was US Senator and one-time presidential 

hopeful John McCain. A highlight for many visitors is in one of the last galleries, which displays McCain's flight suit and 

parachute, and a picture of locals pulling him out of the water after he crashed his plane in Truc Bach Lake. Photos also 

show him years later revisiting the prison, where he reports being so mercilessly tortured he tried to commit suicide on 

several occasions. 

After 1975, it was once again used to jail Vietnamese who spoke out against the Communist government. This continued 

until at least the early 1990s when the government realised they were wasting a prime piece of downtown real estate on a 

prison that was easy to escape from. Most of it was destroyed and sold to developers to create the Hanoi Towers, and a 

small portion was preserved as a memorial. 

As such, it mostly memorialises the suffering of Vietnamese revolutionary martyrs before 1954, and glosses over the 

other periods. Still, the prison is absolutely worth seeing. Be prepared for some fairly grim sights, including dank, dismal 

cells, iron stocks, upsetting photographs and, in the last 'gallery,' the chilling presence of a guillotine used to execute 

some untold number of inmates. 

A few of the cells feature relatively life-like, slightly creepy renderings of suffering prisoners. Other displays show the 

narrow sewer grates that a large number of prisoners squeezed through to escape. One propaganda-filled room is 

devoted to the POW period during the American War, so if you're looking for an unvarnished account of how the prison 

was used from the American War onward, don't expect to come away well educated. 

MUSEUM OF THE VIETNAMESE REVOLUTION 

If you're a sucker for endless rooms (well, 29 to be exact) of Communist Party communications, black and white photos of 

Vietnamese revolutionary heroes, old flags and a good dose of war snaps, then this is the place for you. Established in 

1959, the more than 3,000 exhibits on display here trace the development of the Vietnamese revolution from its very early 

inception through to final victory. 

The museum follows three main strands: the struggle for independence (1858–1945), the war of resistance (1945–1975) 

and Vietnam on the road to recovery (1975 to present). Unless you have a specific interest in the revolution, the museum 

probably isn't worth traipsing all the way across town to visit, but with the outstanding National Museum of Vietnamese 

History just across the road, you may as well pop in if you are already in the area. 

ANCIENT HOUSE AT 87 MA MAY ST 

Dating back to the 19th century, this very special house is a stunning example of the type of architecture that prevailed 

throughout Hanoi before the concrete egg-carton style took over. If you plan on visiting Hoi An, or have already done so, 

you'll recognise this as a trader house in very much the same style of building you'll find in the historic quarter of that 

well-preserved city. This is one of the few intact remains of an old-style home open to the public in Hanoi. Initially the 

house had only one family in residence, but from 1954 to 1999 five families lived in the house. Renovated in 1999, it's still 

an excellent glimpse into Hanoi's rapidly vanishing architectural heritage. On site is a small bookstore which has four 

walking tour leaflets for sale (15,000 dong apiece), which are well worth buying and following. 



LONG BIEN AND CHUONG DUONG BRIDGES 

These two bridges were for a long time the only land access points to Hanoi for many peasants living on the east side of 

the Red River (now new and less impressive but functional bridges are located to the north and south). Long Bien Bridge 

is a massive iron structure built by the French in the late 1800s and designed by Gustav Eiffel, the engineer best known 

for his eponymous landmark in Paris. The bridge has suffered at the hands of war and neglect over the years. It was once 

known as Doumer Bridge, after the French governor-general Paul Doumer, who was responsible for setting up the French 

administration and implementing huge public works projects. In 1983 Chuong Duong Bridge was opened, becoming the 

main thoroughfare for traffic to the north. 

Long Bien Bridge is still used, but only for trains, pedestrians, bicycles and motorcycles. The bridge is quite a sight in the 

mornings and afternoons as people from outlying areas queue up to cross it, carrying their produce to and from the 

markets. It is easy to walk across and the views down onto passing boat traffic and of Hanoi's riverfront stretch are very 

pleasing. In October 2009, the city of Hanoi sponsored the first Long Bien Festival of Arts, and there's talk of another in 

October 2010 to celebrate the city's 1000-year birthday. For an entire weekend, the bridge is closed to all traffic and 

turned into a pedestrian venue for artists, calligraphers, and trinket sellers. 

VIETNAM MUSEUM OF ETHNOGRAPHY 

While somewhat inconveniently located, this museum is absolutely worth making the effort to reach. If you're planning on 

going trekking in the mountains to the north and northwest of Hanoi, this museum should be considered an essential 

research stop. The displays, labelled in English throughout, are both comprehensive and fascinating, covering all the 

main minority groups you're likely to come across on a trek. Plentiful audiovisual displays are offered along with more 

typical museum fare. 

The displays, labelled in English throughout, are both comprehensive and fascinating, covering all the main minority 

groups you're likely to come across on a trek. Plentiful audiovisual displays are offered along with more typical museum 

fare. 

The best part of the museum, however, is found outside, to the rear of the museum. Here, in a lovely green garden you'll 

find well-crafted examples of traditional houses in ethnic minority regions. The Banhar communal house with its 

impossibly high roof and creaking bamboo floor is a stunning piece of work, with nary a nail used in its construction. It's 

also delightfully cool even in summer. And don't miss the replica of a Giarai tomb with its cheerful, rather well-endowed, 

fertility symbols carved from wood. 

Back inside, be sure to check out Mr Pham Dang Uy's bicycle, loaded down with 800 wooden and bamboo fishtraps. Also 

on display: shaman masks, a recreation of the Sapa market and a ruler to measure pigs. We'd been looking for one of 

those. 

The museum is easily reached by the number 14 bus followed by a 10-minute walk down Nguyen Van Huyen St. 

THE VIETNAMESE WOMEN'S MUSEUM 

Since January 2007, the Women's Museum has been undergoing an extensive expansion and renovation, and that was 

still the case in 2010. The ticket taker assured us that repairs would be complete by the end of the year, but that's what he 

said last year. What's left are two small exhibits: one on the first floor, honouring the historical domestic role of 

Vietnamese women, and another on the third floor, on the business and social achievements of contemporary 

Vietnamese women. The latter is entirely in Vietnamese and not all that interesting. 

The first gallery is worth the price of admission though, displaying the possessions and paraphernalia of Vietnamese 

women through modern history, including the diary of a woman living the in Vinh Moc tunnels in the DMZ during the 

bombing campaign, and other touching and evocative artefacts, such as a pony tail cut off by a young woman as a 

memento before losing all of her hair to dioxin poisoning. 

Another photo shows young women cheerfully transporting goods along the Ho Chi Minh trail, with a caption informing 

that shortly thereafter, they 'died heroically'. The small exhibit is actually a powerful reminder that women on the Northern 

side really did fight in the war side by side with men. 

Pictures of young girls laughing with each other with machine guns slung over their shoulders may seem like a quaint 

piece of history, but remember, that cantankerous old woman in her 70s who is overcharging you for a bottle of water may 

have shot down several American planes with a shoulder-mounted surface-to-air missile launcher. 



THANH LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE (NHA HAT MUA ROI THANG LONG) 

Hanoi's most popular site but opinions are divided. Some describe it as an hour of wonderment and magic but others 

describe it as 15 minutes of interesting puppetry followed by an interminable period of squirming in their seat and eyeing 

the exit do It's certainly great for kids, though you might want to park your teens in a gaming cafe while you take the 

younger ones. To its credit, ticket prices are still reasonable despite its popularity, even when you factor in the surcharge 

for taking pictures and video. 

Tickets sometimes sell out for days or even weeks in advance during peak times, so try to buy them at least a day in 

advance. There are five shows a day starting at 15:30, last show at 00:15. You need to buy a separate ticket for taking 

pictures and video. 

BACH MA TEMPLE 

Bach Ma Temple has many virtues to recommend it as the place to get your temple creds if you don't have them yet. First, 

it's very conveniently located, on the corner of Hang Buom and Hang Giay, in the heart of the Old Quarter — it's right next 

to the steak joints on Hang Giay St. Chances are you'll find yourself passing by anyway as you go for a stroll, and you 

might as well stop in for a peek. 

Second, it's a beautiful, well-maintained temple that serves as a good example of what small temples in Vietnam are all 

about. And finally, it's still very actively used for worship — note the extended hours on the 1st and 15th of each lunar 

month to accommodate those who regularly come with offerings to burn incense and pray. A guide can't be hired on site 

so if you're keen on the whole low-down, ask at a hotel or travel agency. 

HANOI OPERA HOUSE 

Hanoi's majestic old Opera House, located in the French Quarter near the posh hotels, is an attraction in itself. While 

Western operas are occasionally mounted here, there are also performances by visiting classical orchestras, and a whole 

gamut of entertainments, such as puppet shows, ballets, and nights of traditional Vietnamese song and drama. 

When we recently visited their new web site, everything worked but the schedule information. As you're unlikely to plan 

your trip to Vietnam around the opera house schedule (and the house is dark most of the year anyway) it's best to just 

show up and see what's on during your stay, or try calling. 

Tickets will be delivered to your hotel for free. Prices vary, but most shows are 120,000–200,000 dong per ticket 

depending on quality of seating, and special performances may cost as much as 500,000 dong. 

BOTANICAL GARDENS 

Located just above the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex northwest of the Old Quarter, the sprawling Botanical Gardens 

provide an excellent respite from the hue and cry of Hanoi's busy streets. They're well landscaped, featuring ample 

foliage to peep at and some cages with exotic birds and monkeys… that we sort of wish weren't even there, but this is 

Vietnam, and every park has to have a monkey cage. Ample opening hours mean you can find a time to beat the heat in 

the summer, and you can't beat the price. The entrance is on the northern side of the park, so to get here, find Hung 

Vuong St, head north, and take a left on Hoang Hoa Tham. The entrance is in the middle of the park on the left. 

THU LE PARK AND ZOO 

Some think Hanoi is a zoo, but it also has one. Priced to please, it's full of locals on any given day, with a cheerful holiday 

air about it that makes for a good place to go if you're getting harried by the tourist scene. Relax, you're on vacation! It's 

more park than zoo, with beautiful grounds edging a lake. The animal displays are strong in the monkey department, but 

the chained-up elephants looked pretty miserable. It's the place to be for a wander around and to sample some snacks 

from the vendors. A number of amusement park rides oriented towards children are free for the price of admission, and 

swan boats can be hired for a paddle on the lake. A new addition: For 40,000 dong, they'll stuff two of you in a big plastic 

inflatable bubble and throw you into the lake. You don't have to be a kid to enjoy that one. It's 4 km west of the Old 

Quarter, and reachable via bus number 9. 

AROUND HANOI 

Hanoi's immediate surroundings are changing rapidly. Roads, factories, housing developments and even resorts are 

being furiously constructed everywhere. Traffic is heavy and getting heavier. And while the farms and rice fields are still 

there, they are being progressively encircled by a less attractive, if more profitable, industrial landscape. If you're looking 

to escape the city quickly and breathe some fresh air in the national parks and tour some exceptional pagodas, be 

prepared to slog through the crusty brown rim to get there. 



THAY AND TAY PHUONG PAGODAS 

If you haven't had a good mountainside pagoda experience, these two spots (with confusingly similar names) are some of 

the oldest and most historically important pagodas in Vietnam, reachable via an easy daytrip. The first of the two, Chua 

Thay or 'Master's Pagoda', is about 19km from Hanoi. Just head southwest out of Hanoi on Duong Lang-Hoa Lac, take a 

right turn, go under the new flyover, and it's about 2km to the village. 

The surrounding area features 16 hills jutting up from the farmland, likened to the body of a dragon jutting out from the 

sea. The largest hill is considered the head, and that's where the 11th century Chua Thay is located. You'll be greeted by 

a beautiful reflecting pond (Dragon Lake) featuring two bridges built in 1602, and a stage for water puppet shows, one of 

the oldest in Vietnam. At the end of the lake sits the main temple building, dedicated to a monk named Tu Dao Hanh who 

lived back in the 12th century. Inside three statues represent the monk in different forms. 

As you're facing the temple, walk left towards the mountain to find the steps leading to the hilltop pagoda complex. It's 

about a 50m vertical ascent, and once you hump up, you'll find a collection of charming old buildings and shrines perched 

on the mountain, along with a natural cave shrine. The spot is a bit reminiscent of a mini Marble Mountain (located just to 

the south of Da Nang). A lot of complicated history and lore lies behind the shrines and the caves in the area, so if you 

really want all the info, try for a guided tour -- be sure to negotiate a price in advance. Even if you don't care for the history 

lesson, it's a pretty spot to visit. 

The next stop is Tay Phuong. Head back to Duong Lanh, turn right, and take a right about 5km further on. There's no sign 

for the pagoda on the main road, but look out for one for Thach That, which is the district you are heading to (the village is 

called Yen). From there, it's 10km to the temple, and signs lead the way. 

Once again, you'll have to walk up a few hundred steps to the pagoda. Tay Phuong is a national treasure thanks to the 

phenomenal sculpture and art on display there. Most notable are the likenesses of monks rendered in lacquered jackfruit 

wood dating from the Tay Son period, just before the 1800s. These are a cut above a lot of pagoda sculpture in terms of 

subtlety and detail and seem to be even finer than the examples of the genre on display in the Fine Arts museum in Hanoi. 

In the central chamber of the pagoda, there's a striking rendering of a '1000-eyed, 1000-armed' Bodhisattva, with a 

scintillating brass-coloured finish (though we wish someone would dust it now and again so it'd really scintillate). Behind 

that is a cluster of statues, at the centre of which is a very fine, very eerie ascetic monk. In the dimly lit area, he looks as if 

he might come to life at any moment. Again, hire a good guide to get the complete lowdown on the art and history of the 

spot, but even without a guide there's plenty to see. Admission is 5,000 dong, hours 07:00 to 18:00 daily. 

The road through Yen village continues on towards Son Tay, so you can combine this pagoda tour with a trip to Ba Vi, 

though it's a big day of sightseeing, so you might want to plan an overnight there. 

CO LOA CITADEL 

This is the easiest of the Hanoi daytrips, about 16km outside the city. The main draw here is that it's one of the oldest 

structures still extant from Vietnamese history (though Cham and Sa Huynh culture is much older). The ancient, 

spiral-shaped citadel dates back to the third century BC, with a few of the ancient ramparts remaining but hard to spot 

among the more recent construction. There's a reflecting pond with a statue of King An Duong Vuong shooting a bow and 

arrow. The weapon had magical powers and he was supposed to use it to fight off Chinese invaders, but his enemy got 

hold of it and used it to defeat him, ushering in nearly a century of Chinese rule. 

There are three sites to visit here: a small pagoda dedicated to the king's daughter (who figured prominently in the tale of 

woe behind the temple's history), the Am Mi Chau pagoda, which now houses a museum displaying archaeological finds 

from the area dating back as much as 5,000 years (though you'll find more of the same and better at the History Museum 

in Hanoi), and also the temple dedicated to the king himself, which has a good display of Buddhist statuary dating back 

several hundred years. 

There's a lot of lore and history here, more so than the other sites listed in this section, so try to hire a guide in Hanoi to 

give you the rundown. 

Admission gives access to all the sites, so keep your ticket handy. 



BA VI NATIONAL PARK 

If you're planning to visit only one national park in Vietnam, other parks, like Bach Ma near Hue, should be higher up on 

your list than Ba Vi. Nevertheless, it's a beautiful park and if you just want a quiet getaway for a day or so, it's a fine 

choice. The main attraction at the park is the mountain itself, which rises to more than 1,200m above sea level. There's a 

very good road leading 12km up to the summit. You can hike or cycle it if you like, but the rest of us mere mortals should 

take a car or motorbike. The road is narrow and twisty, but far from the worst we've seen on that score in Vietnam. If 

you're doing it on a motorbike, make sure you're an expert in negotiating first gear. 

The foliage, as you ascend the mountain, is green and pristine, and the atmosphere is serene. It's worth going just for that 

wonderful feeling of relaxation that comes over you the higher you go. Many of the trees in the park are marked according 

to species, but only in Vietnamese. 

Once at the top, you'll have two hikes ahead of you to mountaintop temples. Den Thuong is the easier of the two, at about 

600 steps to the top. The second goes to a temple honouring of Ho Chi Minh, called Bac Ho. We tackled the first on our 

most recent visit. The stairs get progressively trickier near the top, once you pass the first temple, to the smaller shrine 

above. The views from the top are excellent, or at least, they would have been had we gone on a clear day. We went in 

the cool season when the mountain is generally shrouded in mist, which is way cool, but we couldn't see a thing. 

Food and refreshments are available at the top of the paved road. Other hikes around the slopes of the mountain are 

possible if you're here for more than a day or so. 

Accommodation is available at the Ba Vi Guest House (T: (034) 881 197) which has 30 rooms. Fan rooms cost 150,000 

dong and air-con goes for 200,000 dong. 

About 4km from the base along the summit road is accommodation and half a dozen restaurants to choose from. There 

are also tennis courts and a huge swimming pool, though if you think of it as a small artificial lake, you're less likely to be 

put off by the colour of the water. It's a ghost town in low season, October through March, but otherwise fills up on 

weekends and holidays in fair weather. 

Some lower-key attractions lie within the national park boundary surrounding the base of the mountain: several springs, a 

lake, and some waterfalls, all within a few kilometres and well marked. Take a look at the map at the main entrance. 

There's no real set-up to receive foreign visitors, so if you're thinking of exploring the park properly, be sure to look into 

your options with someone knowledgeable in Hanoi before you arrive. 

The closest ATMs to Ba Vi are in Son Tay town, 10km from the mountain. There's internet there, and to a lesser extent as 

you head towards the mountain. There's a post office in Van Hoa along DT 414 (Route 32) 5 km from the park entrance. 

The park's main gate is open from 05:00 to 21:00. Admission is 15,000 dong, plus a small charge for your vehicle 

depending on size. T: (0343) 880 010. Very little English is spoken. 

THE HO CHI MINH TRAIL MUSEUM 

Located about 15km outside Hanoi, this is often a stop along the way to the Perfume Pagoda. The two-storey museum 

has seven galleries dedicated to the system of trails collectively known as the Ho Chi Minh Trail. It which stretched from 

northern Vietnam along the Laos border at a latitude parallel to Vinh along the coast (which was the main port for supplies 

destined for the trail) down to Saigon in the south. 

The trail featured clandestine spurs that slipped into neighbouring Laos and Cambodia, which led to no end of troubles for 

the United States, whose guidelines for making war prevented them from (legally) following the Viet Cong into those 

countries (though Special Forces often did anyway, and it's one of the reasons Nixon bombed Cambodia, an act which 

contributed greatly to his losing the war from a political standpoint). Thus, for the North Vietnamese, the trail is a 

testament to tenacity, engineering, and just plain pluck and in no small way is why they won the war. 

Displays are heavy on photojournalism from the period, and artefacts collected from along its length. There are some 

English captions, but not many. However, for war buffs and returning Vets, this museum has one of the best collections of 

captured American ordnance and military equipment in the country. It's almost as if the curators are trying to prove to the 

world that the Americans were there, on the trail, often where they shouldn't have been. There's a particularly evocative 

display of IDs, uniforms and personal possessions of American soldiers, which were supposedly found along the trail, 

including a GI helmet emblazoned with the slogan "Tiger Sharks Kill for Kicks," reminiscent of the Oliver Stone flick Full 

Metal Jacket. 

On the second floor is a lecture hall featuring a dusty, poorly labelled diorama of the trail, but if you’re familiar with the 

geography of Vietnam, it does give a good sense of the trail. Just outside the museum, transport vehicles and bulldozers 

from the period have been enshrined for posterity, a bit like in ancient times when elephants that died in battle were 

promoted to the rank of general and given their own elaborate tombs. 



PERFUME PAGODA 

The site is popular year round, but particularly from the middle of the second to the end of the third lunar months following 

Tet and on even days of the lunar calendar. But rather than avoid peak periods, we'd recommend embracing the 

madness. Junkets for foreigners start at 08:00 and get back after dark. The Vietnamese start off at 04:00, get to the 

pagoda by 08:00, and make a day-long visit out of the pilgrimage or do an overnight. Many make the trip out of faith, but 

clearly for others, religion is an excuse to get away from the grind, and the trip is also popular for young, courting couples. 

The site is popular year round, but particularly from the middle of the second to the end of the third lunar months following 

Tet and on even days of the lunar calendar. But rather than avoid peak periods, we'd recommend embracing the 

madness. 

There are numerous pagodas around the site and strewn over the mountain, but few foreigners visit them all. Some 

require your boat to take a detour, but unless they have particular religious significance to you, you'll do fine with the main 

ones. 

You'll probably skip everything except the Trinh Pagoda at the base of the mountain, and then visit additional sites along 

the way as they climb 2.5 km up or down the slope, which takes about an hour. 

At the top is the location's raison d'etre: a large, natural cave with numerous shrines within. The cave is filled with incense, 

candles, and Vietnamese offering up prayers, usually for prosperity during the coming year. Some days, the site receives 

as many as 7,000 visitors. 

You'll reach the Perfume Pagoda by boat. There are about a thousand metal barks absolutely packed into the area of the 

boat landing, all nearly identical, painted rusty-red and made of light steel. They all have names and each driver knows 

their own boat. After paying for your ticket at the ticket booth you'll be hooked up with a paddler for the hour-long trip. 

Many tourists often take the paddles and row for a stretch, mostly for the photo op. 

The boats let off at a gauntlet of restaurants, all of which serve exotic game, like weasel, ferret, deer and snake. You'll find 

the carcasses hanging garishly on display in front of every eatery. Less adventurous fare is also served. 

This is a good place to wind up the night before returning by boat after dark. Boats continue running until 21:00 or 22:00, 

and the trip is serene and gorgeous at that time (not to mention romantic), so don't hesitate to plan a late-night return. 

Even if you're on a tour, you can blow off the return bus and stay on your own. Returning by public bus is slightly tricky, 

but doable. 

There's a cable car going from the base of the mountain to the top. Opinions are divided on whether it's easier to walk up 

and take the car down, or vice versa. Subjecting your calves to an hour stumbling downhill has as many disadvantages as 

an hour lugging your mass against gravity. Or you can just decide that discretion is the better part of valour, and take the 

cable car both ways. 

We stayed the night, and even though it's as touristy as Vietnam gets, the scene is not for foreigners and gives a good 

sense of an important aspect of Vietnamese culture that shouldn't be skipped. Basically, this is the mother of all domestic 

tourist spots in Vietnam, and should be experienced for that reason alone, whether you learn anything about Buddhism 

along the way or not. 


Transport 

AIR 

Domestic and international air tickets can be purchased 

around Hoan Kiem and online. Don't bother going to the 

airport to buy tickets, as the prices will be higher there. 

Carriers like Jetstar fly domestic routes and tend to be 

cheaper than Vietnam Airlines. 

Hanoi's Noi Bai International Airport is located 45km 

from central Hanoi. Getting there is easy, with options 

to suit all budgets. 

By public bus 

Public buses 7 and 17 pick up along Tran Quang Khai 

at the eastern edge of the Old Quarter and cost 5,000 

dong. It's the cheapest but slowest option: allow two 

hours' bus time before check in. 

By airport shuttle 

Next cheapest and by far the best option is one of the 

airport shuttles, which usually cost around 30,000 dong. 

The one that picks up from the Thang Long Opera Hotel 

is reliable and easy to get to: 

Thang Long Opera Hotel 

1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem 

T: (04) 3824 4775, F: (04) 3824 4784 

thanlongopera@vnn.vn 

http://www.thanglongopera.vn 

Or you can check in at any Vietnam Airlines office for a 

schedule of their shuttle. They generally start at 04:30 

and knock off at around 19:00. But be careful, as if they 

don't have enough people at the scheduled time they 

sometimes wait another hour. Make sure you have 

money for a cab as an emergency back up to make 

your flight on time. Buses depart from 1 Quang Trung 

just south of Trang Thi, to the southwest of the lake and 

you can buy your ticket there, about $2. 

By taxi 

Taxis should cost around 250,000 dong per trip for up 

to four people if you can fit all your stuff in the cab with 

you. A 7-passenger car should be about $20 and works 

out well if you have a lot of stuff or are in a big group. 

Getting from the airport to town is notoriously tricky due 

to the various 'taxi scams'. Tourists are routinely 

overcharged, steered to the wrong hotel, or taken to a 

sound-alike hotel that's a complete rip-off. It's too bad 

that this is so many travellers' first taste of Vietnam. 

Tips to avoid getting ripped off 

(a) Don't take a taxi. Do take the shuttle or public bus. 


Once you get into town, taxis and xe oms are much 

more likely to take you where you want to go without 

any nonsense. 

(b) If you take a taxi, buy a ticket at the stand for the 

posted price and wait in the line. This price should 

include the toll, so don't pay extra for it. 

(c) Write down the address, exact name and phone 

number of your hotel before you get into the cab. If the 

driver tells you it's closed or full, insist on confirming 

that for yourself, and be sure to check the address 

when checking the hotel. Be assertive. 

(d) In any case, a taxi from the airport to town should 

not be more than 250,000 dong per car (not per 

person!). 

(e) If you suspect you're being given a bum steer, don't 

get angry. Just keep insisting on being taken where you 

want to go, and simply refuse to pay more than the 

agreed-upon price. The scammers rely on tourists being 

too polite, and too exhausted to put up a fight, but 

ultimately, it's they who must back down, not you. 

(f) Finally, almost everyone gets ripped off a little bit 

when they first arrive in Hanoi. Budget for it, and don't 

take it personally if it happens to you! 

TRAIN 

Hanoi's main train station is located not far from the 

centre of Hoan Kiem, on the border of Ba Dinh district 

on Le Duan St. The easiest way to get here is to head 

west on Ly Thuong Kiet, which ends right at the station. 

It's actually two stations: Station A for departures to the 

south, and Station B for the north. Although they're just 

across the tracks from each other, you can't walk 

between them: you'll have to go via streets that take 

you around the block. This may come up, as trains 

scheduled to depart at one station are sometimes 

rerouted to the other for logistical reasons. Even if 

you're told exactly which station to go to, arrive early 

enough to switch stations. It only takes a few minutes, 

but the whole thing can be confusing. 

Tickets for trains from Station B can be bought at 

Station A up to 24 hours in advance, and at Station B 

itself up to 3 hours before departure. 

Tourists mostly head to Station B for trains to Sapa, 

which has no station, but trains stop at the nearby town 

of Lao Cai, 40km away. Regular shuttles from Lao Cai 

station to Sapa cost $2. Jeeps and moto-taxis are also 

available. Lao Cai is just under 300km from Hanoi, and 

the trip usually takes 9 or 10 hours. Trains leave nightly 

at 20:35, 21:10 and 21:50 (the SP trains 7, 1 and 3) and 

arrive in Lao Cai at 4:55, 5:25 and 6:15 respectively. 

You'll be travelling in the dark so don't expect to see 

anything outside your window. But the great thing is you 

simply hop on board, tuck into your bunk, and when you 


wake up, you're there. The so-called 'hard sleepers' 

sound worse than they are. There's a thin mattress with 

a thick blanket and most travellers we've met have slept 

just fine using these. Prices for a hard sleeper bunk with 

air-con range from 216,000 to 260,000 dong and soft 

sleeper bunks with air-con from 313,000 dong. 

You can book and catch trains south to Hue, Da Nang, 

Nha Trang, HCMC and other destinations in between 

from Station A. Southbound trains depart daily at 5:55, 

12:25, 10:05, 19:00 and 23:00. Sample fair and trip 

times include: 

Hue Hard sleeper with air-con: 318,000–540,000 dong, 

soft sleeper with air-con: 495,000–548,000 dong, 13 

hours 

Da Nang Hard sleeper with air-con: 470,000–597,000 

dong, soft sleeper with air-con: 548,000–607,000 dong, 

15.5 hours 

Nha Trang Hard sleeper with air-con: 

850,000–1,078,000 dong, soft sleeper with air-con: 

990,000–1,097,000 dong, 25.5 hours 

Ho Chi Minh City Hard sleeper with air-con: 

950,000–1,117,000 dong, soft sleeper with air-con: 

1,073,000–1,190,000 dong, 33 hours. 

There are departures from the central Hanoi station to 

Hai Phong, but some originate from Long Bien, on the 

west side of the Red River, only about 2km from Hoan 

Kiem. You can buy tickets at the central station in Hanoi 

for these departures, but you'll need to be at Long Bien 

to catch your train, so make sure to double check. Or 

you can buy tickets at the Long Bien station itself for 

38,000 dong or less from 05:00 to 21:00. 

The Hai Phong trains starting from Long Bien ONLY are: 

LP3 at 09:30 arriving 12:10 



The Vietnamese government celebrates Tet (Lunar 

New Year) by raising the prices of all train tickets. It's 

different for each line, but the jump is about 10%, 

generally occurs two weeks before Tet and continues 

for a week or so afterwards. Book as far in advance as 

possible when travelling on or around Tet. 

Trains to China 

International trains between Beijing, China and Hanoi, 

Vietnam started up in 2008. Obviously, have your visa 

sorted out in advance before you board. Take note that 

in Vietnamese, Beijing is Bac Kinh, and Nanning is Nam 

Ninh. Prices are denominated in Swiss Francs! But, 

don't worry, you can pay in dong. In May 2010 the rate 

was about 17,500 dong to the CHF, but go to 

www.xe.com for the current exchange rate. 


The Beijing trains run on Tuesdays and Fridays only 

and depart at 18:30 from the Hanoi Train Station A, 

arriving in Beijing two days (43 hours) later at about 

12:00. The price is 204.13 CHF for a hard, 299.03 CHF 

for a soft sleeper. These are the only two classes 

available. 

These same trains stop at Nanning, 396km away, at 

06:30 the next morning (12 hours) so you could break 

up the trip if you like. Hard sleepers go for 52.60, and 

soft ones for 76.09 CHF. 

But, if you're going to Nanning, the daily trains out of 

Gia Lam station are much cheaper. The station is to the 

west on the other side of the Red River from Hoan Kiem 

district, a kilometre past the Chuong Duong bridge. 

Tickets cost 20.29 CHF for a hard and 31.53 CHF for a 

soft sleeper. They depart at 21:40 and arrive in Nanning 

at 09:12 the next morning. 

All of these tickets can be booked at the station or at a 

travel agent, who will, of course, charge a small mark 

up. Try: 

Sinh Tourist 

40 Luong Ngoc Quyen 

T: (04) 3926 1568, F: (04) 3926 1621 

www.thesinhtourist.vn 

hanoi@thesinhtourist.vn 

One note: when booking train tickets with a travel agent, 

you're generally not issued a ticket, but a voucher that 

will need to be exchanged with a tour company agent at 

the train station for an actual ticket. These agents hang 

out at the steps outside the staion. Show any one of 

them your voucher and they'll direct you to the person 

who will have your tickets. It's chaotic and confusing, 

but it works. Make sure to allow plenty of time prior to 

your departure to sort it all out. 

BUS 

Hanoi is a massive transportation hub, with four bus 

stations and three train stations of use to foreigners. 

Sorting out where to go to get where you want to go can 

be time consuming, so often you will do better paying 

for the convenience of booking through a hotel or travel 

agency. The prices below should give a general idea of 

how much extra you're paying. Those who like to do it 

on their own may want to factor in transport to the 

station when calculating the overall price. You won't 

always do better than booking a ticket through a hotel 

and getting picked up in town. Luong Yen and Gia Lam 

stations are the most convenient to the Old Quarter, so 

depart from there if you have a choice. 

My Dinh Bus Station 


Ben Xe My Dinh T: (04) 3768 5548–9, ticketing open 

06:00 to 18:00 

My Dinh is a 7km trek to the west of town. There are 

departures to dozens of northern cities, and a number 

of destinations to the south and east. Only the major 

destinations are listed below. To get here, take Tran 

Phu west from the Old Quarter until it becomes Kim Ma. 

Continue straight, following a roundabout to Cua Giay, 

continuing until the road crosses under an overpass. 

Take a left on to Pham Hung. 

Cao Bang: Departs from 06:15 to 17:00 (15 

departures), costs 117,000 dong, 10 hours 

Dien Bien: Sleeper buses depart at at16:00, 16:30, 

17:30, 18:00 and 20:00, costs 300,000 dong, 8 hours 

Ha Giang: Departs from 04:10 to 06:00 (6 departures), 

costs 120,000 dong, 6 hours 

Hoa Binh: Departs from 05:15 to 17:45 (30 

departures), costs 30,000 dong, 1 hour 

Lai Chau: Departs at 06:00, costs 188,000 dong, 3 

hours 

Mai Chau: Departs at 06:00, 14:00 and 14:30, costs 

50,000 dong, 2 hours 

Mong Cai: Departs at 07:30 onwards (30 departures), 

110,000 dong, 10 hours 

Nho Quan (for Cuc Phuong Nat'l Park): Departs at 

06:15, 08:00, 13:00 and 16:20, costs 50,000 dong, 3 

hours 

Ninh Binh: Departs regularly from 09:40 to 17:00, costs 


Son La: Departs at 07:00 and 08:00, costs 120,000 

dong, 7 hours 

Thanh Hoa: Departs at 12:35 and 13:00, costs 75,000 

dong, 4 hours 

Vinh: Departs from 05:30 to 17:00 (11 departures), 

costs 110,000 dong, 5.5 hours 

Bai Chay (Halong Bay): 37 departures from 06:00 to 

18:00, costs 60,000 dong, 3 hours 

Bac Kan (for Ba Be Nat'l Park): Departs 06:20, 11:30, 

12:30, 12:45 and 13:00, costs 50,000 dong, 3.5 hours 

Buon Me Thuot: Departs 12:30 and 13:20, costs 

370,000 dong, 45 hours 

Southern Bus Terminal 

Ben Xe Phia Nam T: (04) 3864 1467, ticketing 05:00 to 

18:00 

Located 5 km south of the Old Quarter on Duong Giai. 

Departures are available to the north and east as well 

as the south. Sleeper buses to Saigon leave from 

Luong Yen station, but the sleeper to Hue/Da Nang only 

departs from here. Saigon buses here can be cheaper, 

but only if you can do without a bed, food and a toilet on 

the bus. Otherwise, spring for the sleeper. Buses to 

towns in the Central Highlands are available here, but 

may take as long as two days to reach their destination. 


Cao Bang: Departs at 06:30, 07:30 and 17:00, costs 

105,000 dong, 10 hours 

Hue/Da Nang: First class sleeper with food departs at 

16:00, 17:00 and 18:00, costs 245,000 dong. First class 

with food departs at 14:00 and 15:00, costs 190,000 

dong, 14 to 16 hours 

Lang Son: Departs hourly from 06:00 to 15:00, costs 

60,000 dong, takes 3.5 hours 

Ninh Binh: Departs frequently from 6:00 to 16:55, costs 


Saigon: First class bus, food service, departs at 11:00 

and 13:00, costs 510,000 dong. Second class bus, food 

service, departs at 18:00 and costs 425,000 dong. 

Normal bus, no food departs at 10:00 and 15:00, costs 

355,000 dong, 35 to 40 hours. 

Thanh Hoa: Departs every 10 minutes from 05:00 to 

19:40, 60,000 dong, 3 hours 

Buon Me Thuot: Departs 06:00, 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 

10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 12:00 and 15:00, costs 370,000 

dong with food, 45 hours 

Da Lat: Departs 09:00, 11:00 and 16:00, costs 330,000 

dong with food, takes 2 days. 

Gia Lai (Pleiku): Departs 08:00, 09:00, 11:00, 12:00 

and 14:30, 330 to 390,000 dong, takes nearly 2 days 

Kon Tum: Departs 09:00, costs 380,000 with food, 

takes nearly 2 days 

Mong Cai: Departs 19:00 and 20:00, costs 150,000 

dong, 10 hours 

Dien Bien: 7 departures from 06:00 to 18:00, 200 to 

265,000 dong with food, 8 hours 

Lai Chau: Departs 16:30, 18:00 and 19:00, costs 

230,000 with food, 3 hours 

Gia Lam Bus Station 

Ben Xe Gia Lam T: (04) 3827 1529, ticketing 06:00 to 

17:30 

This station is located east of the Red River on Ngo Gia 

Kham, 2km from the far side of the Chuong Duong or 

Long Bien Bridges. To get here, take either bridge then 

find Pho Ngoc Lam which runs east-west between the 

two bridges. Less than 2km later there's a sign 

indicating a right turn for the bus station and a left turn 

for the train station. 

Hai Phong: Departs from 06:50 to 17:30 every 20 

minutes. Costs 48,000 dong, takes 2 hours 

Hon Gai (Halong City): Departs at 05:10 to 18:30, 

every 20 minutes, costs 60,000 dong, takes 4 hours 

Lao Cai: Departs at 19:00, costs 150,000 dong 

Lang Son: Departs every 30 minutes from 05:30 to 

17:00, costs 60,000 dong and takes 5 hours 

Mong Cai: 12 departures from 06:00 to 19:00, costs 

150,000 dong and takes 9 hours 

Thai Binh: Departs at 10:30 and 14:30, costs 55,000 

dong. 


Luong Yen Bus Station 

Ben Xe Luong Yen T: (04) 3942 0477, ticketing 06:00 to 

23:00 

For most travellers, this is the only bus station you'll 

ever need to visit, if any. It's the most convenient station 

to the Old Quarter. Just head to Tran Quang Khai on 

the east side of Hoan Kiem district and head 2km south. 

It's good for departures to Hai Phong and other points 

north, east and south. 

Also, sleeper buses to Mien Dong Station in Ho Chi 

Minh City depart from here, cost 590,000 dong, with 10 

departures, every 2 hours from 07:00 to 23:00. These 

buses make stops along the way, costs and travel times 

are as follows (running down the coast): 

Dong Ha (Quang Tri): 220,000 dong, 12 hours 

Hue: 230,000 dong.13 hours 

Da Nang: 250,000 dong, 15 hours 

Quang Ngai: 370,000 dong, 18 hours 

Nha Trang: 510,000 dong, 26 hours 

Phan Thiet (Mue Ne): 580,000 dong, 35 hours 

Ho Chi Minh City: 590, dong, 36 hours 

Other departures include: 

Cao Bang: 7 departures from 07:30 to 20:30, costs 


Cat Ba Town: Departs at 05:20, 07:20, 11:20 and 

13:20, costs 180,000 dong (including ferry transfer), 4 

hours 

Dong Ha: Departs at 17:30 and 16:30, costs 120,000 

dong 

Hai Phong: Departs every 10 minutes from 04:50 to 


Lang Son: Departs every 15 minutes from 05:15 to 


Mong Cai: 12 departures from 04:30 to 21:00, costs 


Ninh Binh: Departs at 12:00, costs 50,000 dong, 2 

hours 15 mins 

Thanh Hoa: Departs at 10:00, 13:00, 14:00 and 16:00, 

costs 50,000 dong, 4 hours 

Vinh: Departs at 11:00, costs 90,000 dong 

Ha Giang: Departs at 03:00, costs 125,000 dong, 6 

hours 

International buses 

It's true that the international buses out of Hanoi are still 

pretty sketchy. Operators have had trouble sustaining 

profitable routes and cost-cutting has lead to scams, 

rip-offs and even some fatal accidents. But we reckon 

they are no worse than a lot of the buses in Thailand -or 

India for that matter -- just unusually poor for Vietnam. 

Buses to Laos 


Nightly buses depart at 18:30 for Vientiane and you 

may be able to arrange hotel pickup. Tickets can be 

booked at most hotels and travel agencies, cost 

250,000 dong for the 22-hour trip, and you'll have to 

have your Laos visa in advance. There is no toilet on 

the bus, but it stops regularly for breaks. 

The roads are fine until you reach Laos proper, at which 

point things slow down considerably, and accidents 

have happened. There used to be through buses, but 

our understanding is that at this point, you'll probably 

have to change buses at the border, and might even 

have to pay more money at that point, since if you don't, 

you'll be stranded in the middle of nowhere. So fly if you 

possibly can, and if going by land, any route you pick 

beside the one straight from Hanoi (or Dong Ha or Vinh) 

directly to Vientiane is a better choice. There are 

currently no through buses to Luang Prabang. 

Buses to China 

Through buses to China depart across the street from 

the Hong Ha Tourism office, in the hotel of the same 

name, on the west side of the Red River, along Tran 

Quang Khai. The buses have air-con and make 

frequent bathroom and food stops. Tickets cost $20. 

Purchase a day in advance and have your Chinese visa 

ready. Buses depart at 07:30 and 09:30 arriving in 

Nanning at 15:00 and 17:00 respectively the same day. 

Hong Ha Tourism 204 Tran Quang Khai, T: (04) 3824 

7339 

Buses to Cambodia 

We don't know anyone that's tried it, but there are three 

daily departures to Phnom Penh at 06:30, 08:00 and 

09:00 arriving at 12:30, 14:00 and 15:00 the next day. 

They cost 910,000 dong and Cambodia visas can be 

purchased at the border. Check Sinh Tourist for more 

info. 

Sinh Tourist 


T: (04) 3926 1568, F: (04) 3926 1621 

www.thesinhtourist.vn 

hanoi@thesinhtourist.vn 

GETTING AROUND 

Short trips within Hanoi on a xe om (motorcycle taxi) 

run 10,000 dong at a minimum. Metered taxis are also 

widely available, and often come out cheaper than a xe 

om for short trips, though they are slower and can't 

dodge traffic as well. For two or more people, a taxi is 

always cheaper than multiple xe oms. 

It's pretty much understood that foreigners renting 

cyclos aren't really headed anywhere, they're just 


joyriding and 100,000 dong per hour is quite sufficient 

compensation for your hard-working pedaller. You can 

bargain them down lower, but then you have to live with 

yourself. If you want to call a cab to pick you up, try Mai 

Linh at (04) 3861 6161 or Hanoi Taxi at (04) 3253 5353. 

The following fares are approximate, priced from 

Hanoi's old quarter: 

By xe om 

My Dinh Bus Station: 40,000 dong 

Long Bien Train Station: 20,000 dong 

Luong Yen Bus Station: 30,000 dong 

Hanoi Train Station: 20,000 dong 

Southern Bus Station: 40,000 dong 

Gia Lam Bus/Train Station: 30,000 dong 

By taxi 

My Dinh Bus Station: 100,000 dong 

Long Bien Train Station: 30,000 dong 

Luong Yen Bus Station: 50,000 dong 

Hanoi Train Station: 40,000 dong 

Southern Bus Station: 70,000 dong 

Gia Lam Bus/Train Station: 60,000 dong 

Motorbike rentals 

Motorbike rentals are affordable and easy to find -- just 

look for the signs in English on Dinh Liet or Hang Bac. 

The standard rate is $5 a day, or $50 a month for a 100 

CC Honda wave or something like it. They'll usually 

keep your passport in lieu of a deposit. If your hotel is 

holding on to yours, have the rental agent call the hotel 

and sort it out. 

If you're thinking of heading out of town on a motorbike 

trek, and you've been dreaming of riding a Minsk, we 

recommend you head to Hanoi Minsk Motorcycles on 

Luong Ngoc Quyen right next to the Irish Wolfhound. 

You can rent or buy bikes here, and what you see in the 

small shop is just the tip of the iceberg -- they have 


access to dozens more off site. Honda Dreams with a 

125 cc engine are $10 a day, Minsks are $10, and 

newer Honda Waves with 250 cc engines and other 

more powerful bikes range from $25 to 35 per day. If 

you're headed on a long trip, they want a $300 deposit, 

which is fair enough, but if you're just tooling around 

town a passport is acceptable collateral. English is 

spoken and they really seem to love what they do. 

You'll find other shops scattered along Dinh Liet, Hang 

Bac and associated sidestreets. Currently, you don't 

need any kind of licence to rent if you're a foreigner, but 

keep an eye out as that may change, and if you cause 

an accident, it becomes an expensive issue to resolve. 

Hanoi Minsk 


Phone: (04) 3926 4214 

Service: (0904) 226 885 

ngqhop@yahoo.com 

Hours: 08:00 to 18:00 

VU HA 

Motorbikes and Bicycles 

5E Dinh Liet 

T: (04) 3926 1589 

Home: (04) 3828 0164 

Mobile: (0912) 265 334 

Hours: 7:00 to 19:00 

Public buses 

Hanoi Bus runs a comprehensive and very affordable 

public bus system throughout the city (and out to the 

airport). The buses are all numbered and ply some very 

handy routes. If you pick up a tourist map in Hanoi, 

make sure it is one that marks the bus routes on it. You 

can check out their website for detailed bus route 

information, but on our last visit, the English version 

wasn't working: 

http://www.hanoibus.com.vn.

Hanoi, one of the most beautiful of the colonial Indochinese cities, is ...

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