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Craft of Cupping - Roast Magazine

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<strong>Craft</strong><br />

<strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Cupping</strong><br />

The Art &<br />

Science Of<br />

The Silver<br />

Spoon<br />

<strong>Cupping</strong> C<strong>of</strong>fee is a labor <strong>of</strong> love, one<br />

that rewards you with membership in a very<br />

special club <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee aficionados. Even after 25<br />

years <strong>of</strong> cupping, I confess I’m still like a kid in<br />

a candy shop when I’m at the cupping table.<br />

There is a certain excitement to the ritual sniffing<br />

and sipping. Each new cup is mysterious; each<br />

spoonful the key that can transport you to a<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee farm half-way around the world or open<br />

the door to a new origin, a new vintage or a<br />

special <strong>of</strong>fering that you never knew existed.<br />

continued on page 26<br />

24 roast September | | October October 2004 2004 25 25<br />

by<br />

RobeRt baRkeR


CRAFT OF CUPPING ( continued)<br />

Unlike the majority <strong>of</strong> the food and beverage industry, where<br />

tasters in white coats are sequestered in sterile laboratories, c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

cuppers seem to be a little more social.<br />

While taste assessment is essential for<br />

quality control and for determining a<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee’s appeal, it is also an opportunity<br />

for cuppers to engage the public and<br />

share their enthusiasm.<br />

<strong>Cupping</strong> is a system <strong>of</strong> classification<br />

based on a few learned skills. Once you<br />

learn these skills and have a chance<br />

to practice and become confident in<br />

your abilities, you’ll find that cupping<br />

reveals the answers to many <strong>of</strong> the most<br />

important roasting questions.<br />

Whatever your cupping level is,<br />

a good vocabulary is paramount for<br />

communicating with green c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

suppliers and for recording your<br />

impression <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fees received. Novice<br />

cuppers are encouraged to invent their<br />

own terms when first introduced to<br />

the revolving table and silver spoon.<br />

Learning a vocabulary <strong>of</strong> a hundred<br />

or so terms is daunting at first glance.<br />

FRee INFO #129<br />

It’s more important to write your impression in your own words<br />

when starting out and gradually integrate the pr<strong>of</strong>essional terms as<br />

you become more accomplished. You can<br />

modify and add to your own list—it’s<br />

something you grow into. (To help<br />

you get started, check out the cupping<br />

glossary on page 36.)<br />

Why Cup?<br />

There are so many reasons to get<br />

out your silver spoon: sourcing new<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees, trouble-shooting problems,<br />

developing new blends, comparing<br />

your products with the competition or<br />

educating your staff.<br />

But perhaps the most important<br />

reason for cupping is a business one:<br />

if you don’t cup, you’re disadvantaged<br />

by everyone else who does. <strong>Cupping</strong> is<br />

quality control. Without a doubt, it is<br />

the most valuable asset to maintaining<br />

and improving the quality <strong>of</strong> your<br />

product. As a proponent <strong>of</strong> specialty<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee, it’s important to assess the<br />

quality <strong>of</strong> the green c<strong>of</strong>fee purchases and follow that up with an<br />

assessment <strong>of</strong> your production roast.<br />

Here are a few discoveries a roaster or green c<strong>of</strong>fee buyer can make<br />

at the cupping table:<br />

What does growing altitude have to do with<br />

cup quality? Differences in acidity will<br />

become obvious when you taste high- and<br />

low-grown c<strong>of</strong>fees from the same region.<br />

What decaffeination process yields the best<br />

taste? Here I recommend using as many<br />

samples from the same national origin as<br />

possible. You may not know the quality <strong>of</strong><br />

the unprocessed beans, but you should be all<br />

right if using reputable sources. Try samples<br />

from each <strong>of</strong> the decaffeination processes:<br />

Cup methylene chloride, also known as<br />

MC or KVW; ethyl acetate, also known as<br />

EA or natural; water-processed; and CO 2 -<br />

processed. Use regular unprocessed c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

from the same origin for a control, and note<br />

any papery or cardboard taste in the decaf<br />

samples. Some processes weaken the overall<br />

flavor, and others add <strong>of</strong>f tastes.<br />

continued on page 28<br />

26 roast September | October 2004 27<br />

FRee INFO #132<br />

What is the difference in a washed c<strong>of</strong>fee and a traditional dryprocessed<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee? Here you can compare washed and natural<br />

version <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fees like Brazils, Sumatrans and Sidamos.<br />

What does aging do to a c<strong>of</strong>fee’s taste<br />

and acidity? Use aged and regular<br />

Sumatrans or Indian Mysore compared<br />

with Monsooned Malabar. At the same<br />

time, you can compare past-crop c<strong>of</strong>fees<br />

with new-crop examples. Often, pastcrop<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees are marketed as vintage or<br />

aged c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

How does tree variety contribute to taste?<br />

You can learn this by tasting beans<br />

from typica, bourbon and caturra trees.<br />

Check with brokers and importers for<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees with known pedigrees.<br />

Can a washed robusta taste as good as an<br />

average Arabica?<br />

Can I taste the difference between patiodried<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee and mechanically dried<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees?


CRAFT OF CUPPING ( continued)<br />

Can I taste the difference between dry-pulped c<strong>of</strong>fee and traditionally<br />

washed c<strong>of</strong>fee?<br />

Of course, tasting isn’t just beneficial at the roastery. Most<br />

roaster/retailers also cup or taste their c<strong>of</strong>fees at their shop to ensure<br />

the quality <strong>of</strong> the c<strong>of</strong>fee from roaster to customer. Taste tests in a<br />

shop can be done with a variety <strong>of</strong> brewing methods, including<br />

French press, pouring over Melitta filters, and regular brewers.<br />

Discoveries that can be made with retail shop testing include:<br />

What contribution does the filter paper make to the taste <strong>of</strong> the c<strong>of</strong>fee?<br />

What does a difference in grind do to the taste?<br />

What does a difference in water temperature do to the taste?<br />

Can I taste a difference when using tap water compared<br />

to purified water?<br />

Which milk producer delivers the best taste<br />

compliment to my c<strong>of</strong>fee?<br />

What is the best water-to-grounds ratio<br />

for my brewer?<br />

How does my c<strong>of</strong>fee change after 30<br />

minutes in the brewer?<br />

What does a wooden stirring stick<br />

do to the c<strong>of</strong>fee flavor?<br />

Convenient <strong>Cupping</strong><br />

<strong>Cupping</strong> can be a daunting<br />

experience for newbies and old<br />

hands alike. There are a number <strong>of</strong><br />

ways to make the process easier and<br />

more convenient.<br />

Much like a science experiment, cupping<br />

requires foresight, a scenario and premise<br />

focusing on the question you wish to address, and<br />

the results you expect to achieve. For instance, if you are<br />

comparing 10 lots <strong>of</strong> Colombian c<strong>of</strong>fees, it helps to know as much as<br />

possible about each lot. In the end, it is not just the overall ranking<br />

you will leave the table with, but also an understanding as to why<br />

the c<strong>of</strong>fees came out in that order. Are they the same age, same<br />

processing, grown at the same altitude, same tree variety? Planning<br />

will help you get the most out <strong>of</strong> every cupping. Add some controls<br />

and known quantities to expand the usefulness <strong>of</strong> the exercise.<br />

the Four StepS oF planning a <strong>Cupping</strong><br />

1. Design: The determination <strong>of</strong> purpose. What do we want to<br />

find out? What should we expect? How many c<strong>of</strong>fees are going<br />

to be included? How many do we have? How many do we<br />

need? How many are manageable? Can it be broken into two<br />

if it is too large? What other c<strong>of</strong>fees would be complimentary<br />

and add to the experience? What would be a suitable control<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee?<br />

2. Set-up: The set-up follows the design. First, everything<br />

should be labeled clearly and put into proper order. This<br />

means that c<strong>of</strong>fees should be grouped, either by type, degree<br />

<strong>of</strong> roast, region or other category that <strong>of</strong>fers some degree<br />

<strong>of</strong> order. The layout <strong>of</strong> these samples should be adequate<br />

for moving from sample to sample with convenience. Are<br />

controls in the right order? Is there room for more than one<br />

cupper?<br />

3. Facility: This includes a number <strong>of</strong> components, including<br />

place, time, schedule and, ideally, an assistant. The place<br />

can be a table or counter, but the standard is a tall, round,<br />

rotating table. The time <strong>of</strong> day may be determined for the<br />

convenience to the parties involved or the availability <strong>of</strong> the<br />

space. Samples must be weighed out and ground, so a<br />

scale and grinder must be available. The assistant<br />

will need to have hot water ready at the right<br />

time as well as a good supply <strong>of</strong> cupping<br />

spoons, napkins, paper cups, paper<br />

towels, notepads, clipboards and<br />

pens.<br />

4. Write-up: Notes are best<br />

written on cupping forms that<br />

will be helpful to the process.<br />

These forms can be tailormade<br />

to suit your purpose<br />

and include your company<br />

logo, a vocabulary list or<br />

other cupping aids. (Sample<br />

forms can be found on pages<br />

31 and 32.) When doing the<br />

tasting, additional comments<br />

should be clear and even wordy,<br />

because it’s easier to edit than to<br />

recall some nuance days later. It’s<br />

useful to discuss the results afterward<br />

to see if there is agreement and a<br />

common conclusion. Sometimes it may be<br />

decided that the cupping should be repeated<br />

under different circumstances.<br />

a FeW More tipS<br />

• The easier the process, the more fun it will be. Sometimes I<br />

highlight my cupping forms with colored markers. One color<br />

for major tastes and another for nuances. Above all, written<br />

comments are most valuable for cup-to-cup comparisons,<br />

ratings and rankings.<br />

• The easier the clean up the more likely you will be encouraged<br />

to do more cuppings. Here is where the trainee assistant can<br />

be very helpful.<br />

• Many successful roasters make morning cupping an everyday<br />

practice. These daily cuppings are conducted to check<br />

the latest roast quality and consistency.<br />

continued on page 30<br />

28 roast September | October 2004 29<br />

FRee INFO #106<br />

FRee INFO #139


FRee INFO #154<br />

CRAFT OF CUPPING ( continued)<br />

• Separate cuppings may be conducted in the afternoon to<br />

assess samples representing possible replacement stocks or<br />

special <strong>of</strong>ferings.<br />

• A daily quality-control cupping is a good opportunity to<br />

introduce a new employee to the practice. Sometimes I<br />

invite special guests or clients to join in.<br />

• For years, I have kept my cupping reports in loose-leaf<br />

binders for reference. Now I can keep them on a computer<br />

that can be searched by country <strong>of</strong> origin, estate name,<br />

region, bag marks or just chronologically by descending<br />

dates or ratings.<br />

SubjeCtivity vS. objeCtivity<br />

<strong>Cupping</strong> is an attempt at objectivity, but at every step<br />

assessments tend to become subjective. After all, no two<br />

cuppers have the same taste buds, with the possible exception<br />

<strong>of</strong> identical twins. Assessments are <strong>of</strong>ten skewed by preference<br />

or expectation. How could you ever be disappointed when<br />

cupping a Jamaican Blue Mountain sample? Isn’t it supposed<br />

to be the greatest c<strong>of</strong>fee in the world?<br />

So don’t be discouraged if you find that your cupping<br />

responses don’t seem to match everyone else’s at the table.<br />

Remember, it was only a few years ago that many roasters were<br />

cupping an exemplary Kona c<strong>of</strong>fee only to find out later that it<br />

was “Kona Rican.” <strong>Cupping</strong> is obviously not a perfect science.<br />

But it is a useful one—and one that you’re likely to enjoy each<br />

time you pick up your silver spoon.<br />

<strong>Cupping</strong> reSourCeS<br />

ON The NexT seveRAl PAGes, <strong>Roast</strong><br />

presents a unique collection <strong>of</strong> cupping<br />

resource materials*, including cut-and-copy<br />

forms, a vocabulary sheet and a glossary.<br />

The forms are also available for<br />

downloading at www.roastmagazine.com.<br />

31 <strong>Cupping</strong> Form<br />

32 Evaluation<br />

34 Vocabulary<br />

36 Glossary<br />

*These forms were developed by Robert Barker<br />

and <strong>Roast</strong> magazine; they are not <strong>of</strong>ficial forms <strong>of</strong><br />

any industry group.<br />

#<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

Flavor<br />

30 roast September | October 2004 31<br />

A<br />

Caramelly<br />

Floral<br />

Spicy<br />

Earthy<br />

Fermented<br />

Baked<br />

Ashy<br />

Rioy<br />

Musty<br />

Herby<br />

Aroma<br />

Ar o m A TA i n T s<br />

B<br />

Chocolaty<br />

Caramelly<br />

Sweet<br />

Complex<br />

Toasty<br />

Nutty<br />

Fruit-like<br />

Fl A v o r TA i n T s<br />

Fermented<br />

Bitter<br />

Herby<br />

Chemical<br />

Rank<br />

Harsh<br />

Oniony<br />

Medicinal<br />

Rioy<br />

Soury<br />

Peasy<br />

Metallic<br />

Dirty<br />

ro A s T TA s T e s<br />

Fresh<br />

Under-dev.<br />

Burnt<br />

Pungent<br />

Past-crop<br />

Chocolaty<br />

Complex<br />

Deep<br />

Mellow<br />

Big<br />

Chocolaty<br />

Fruity<br />

Herbal<br />

Burnt<br />

Medicinal<br />

Moldy<br />

Grassy<br />

Tarry<br />

Chemical<br />

Mellow<br />

Earthy<br />

Grainy<br />

Vanilla-like<br />

Pruny<br />

Mild<br />

Pungent<br />

Acrid<br />

Potatoey<br />

Petroleum<br />

Earthy<br />

Edgy<br />

Cabbagy<br />

Turpeny<br />

Groundy<br />

Hard<br />

Soapy<br />

Moldy<br />

Rough<br />

Musty<br />

Resonate<br />

Green<br />

Carbony<br />

Ashy<br />

Scorched<br />

DA r k ro A s T As s e T s<br />

Vanilla-like<br />

Smoky<br />

Heavy<br />

Smooth<br />

Woody<br />

Rich<br />

Nutty<br />

Winey<br />

Hidy<br />

Strawy<br />

Fishy<br />

Turpeny<br />

Fauna<br />

Woody<br />

Cereal<br />

Smoky<br />

Citrusy<br />

Smooth<br />

Musty<br />

Cinnamon<br />

Spicy<br />

Sharp/Salty<br />

Hidy<br />

Vinegary<br />

Fauna<br />

Baggy<br />

Grassy<br />

Burnt<br />

Acerbic<br />

Insipid<br />

Green<br />

Charred<br />

Caustic<br />

Vapid<br />

Rounded<br />

Grassy<br />

Cresoty<br />

Fishy<br />

Tippy<br />

Pungent<br />

Rich<br />

Round<br />

Hardy<br />

Cedary<br />

Smoky<br />

Slight<br />

Vanilla-like<br />

Rancid<br />

Petroleum<br />

Green<br />

Papery<br />

Cocoa<br />

Creosoty<br />

Berryish<br />

Clean<br />

Bitter<br />

Leathery<br />

Winey<br />

Malty<br />

Strong<br />

Hay-like<br />

Ashy<br />

Rancid<br />

Bland<br />

Strawy<br />

Carbony<br />

Alkaline<br />

Neutral<br />

Woody<br />

Tarry<br />

Brackish<br />

Stale<br />

Papery<br />

Balanced<br />

Soury<br />

Tarry<br />

Rubbery<br />

Baked<br />

<strong>Roast</strong>y<br />

Broad<br />

Intense<br />

Bittersweet<br />

Malty<br />

Resinous<br />

Pungent<br />

Flat<br />

Earthy<br />

Cardboardy<br />

Stale<br />

Rubbery<br />

Bricky<br />

Soapy<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

Cedary<br />

Tobaccoey<br />

Woody<br />

Fishy<br />

Briny<br />

Cocoa<br />

Cardboardy<br />

Rubbery<br />

Astringent<br />

Baked<br />

Creosoty<br />

Pasty<br />

Tippy<br />

Piquant<br />

Biting<br />

Bitter<br />

Harsh<br />

Bland<br />

Powerful<br />

Fullflavored<br />

C<br />

Acidity<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

Bright<br />

Fruity<br />

Sharp<br />

Medium<br />

Impressive<br />

D<br />

Body<br />

Brisk<br />

Tangy<br />

Smooth<br />

Moderate<br />

Pronounced<br />

Sweet<br />

Nippy<br />

S<strong>of</strong>t<br />

Mild<br />

Delicate<br />

Piquant<br />

Winey<br />

Flat<br />

Slight<br />

Disappointing<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

Oily<br />

Heavy<br />

Impressive<br />

E<br />

Buttery<br />

Full<br />

Disappointing<br />

Creamy<br />

Medium<br />

Thin<br />

Aftertaste & Finish<br />

Thick<br />

Light<br />

Watery<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

Strong<br />

Clean<br />

Floral<br />

Long<br />

F<br />

Moderate<br />

Fresh<br />

Spicy<br />

Fast-fading<br />

Assessment<br />

Weak<br />

Rounded<br />

Fruity<br />

Thin<br />

Negligible<br />

Resonate<br />

Winey<br />

Astringent<br />

-5 -4 -3 -2 -1 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5<br />

Exceptional<br />

Very good<br />

Fair<br />

G<br />

Exemplary<br />

Good<br />

Poor<br />

<strong>Cupping</strong> Score<br />

This form is based on a 100-point scale.<br />

Combine all <strong>of</strong> the above scores and add<br />

40 to determine the overall score.<br />

H<br />

Notes<br />

Excellent<br />

Above Average<br />

Defective<br />

Outstanding<br />

Average<br />

Foul<br />

ov e r A l l sc o r e


Received date Sample # <strong>Roast</strong> date<br />

Origin Region / Name<br />

Green appearance<br />

Vendor Vendor reference #<br />

<strong>Roast</strong> Agtron # WB Grade<br />

co m m e n T s<br />

Fragrance/Aroma<br />

Flavor<br />

Strength/Intensity<br />

Sweetness<br />

Bitterness<br />

Acidity<br />

Body<br />

Aftertaste/Finish<br />

Balance<br />

Terroir Distinction<br />

Cupper Date<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10<br />

100-point scale<br />

#<br />

32 roast September | October 2004 33<br />

FRee INFO #168


Fr Ag r A n c e<br />

Sweetly floral Sweetly herbal Sweetly spicy<br />

Ar o m A s & sc e n T s<br />

Caramelly<br />

Floral<br />

Spicy<br />

Earthy<br />

Ar o m A TA i n T s<br />

Fermented<br />

Baked<br />

Ashy<br />

Rioy<br />

Musty<br />

Herby<br />

Burnt<br />

Medicinal<br />

Ar o m A in T e n s i T y<br />

Chocolaty<br />

Fruit-like<br />

Herbal<br />

Woody<br />

Moldy<br />

Grassy<br />

Tarry<br />

Chemical<br />

Hidy<br />

Strawy<br />

Fishy<br />

Turpeny<br />

Nutty<br />

Acidy<br />

Cedary<br />

Smoky<br />

Fauna<br />

Woody<br />

Rancid<br />

Petroleum<br />

Green<br />

Papery<br />

Cocoa<br />

Creosoty<br />

Vanilla-like<br />

Winey<br />

Malty<br />

Pungent<br />

Earthy<br />

Cardboardy<br />

Stale<br />

Rubbery<br />

Bricky<br />

Soapy<br />

Big Rich Full Rounded Flat<br />

Pr i mA r y Fl A v o r no T e s<br />

Acidy nippy–piquant<br />

Bitter slight–harsh<br />

Bland s<strong>of</strong>t–neutral<br />

Fruity soury–ferment<br />

Harsh caustic–medicinal<br />

Mellow delicate–mild<br />

Fl A v o r nu A n c e s<br />

Caramelly<br />

Smoky<br />

Herbal<br />

Earthy<br />

Nutty<br />

Toasty<br />

Fl A v o r TA i n T s<br />

Fermented<br />

Bitter<br />

Herby<br />

Chemical<br />

Rank<br />

Harsh<br />

Oniony<br />

Medicinal<br />

Rioy<br />

Soury<br />

Peasy<br />

Metallic<br />

Dirty<br />

Acrid<br />

Potatoey<br />

Petroleum<br />

Floral<br />

Spicy<br />

Chocolaty<br />

Cereal<br />

Fruit-like<br />

Cinnamon<br />

Earthy<br />

Edgy<br />

Cabbagy<br />

Turpeny<br />

Groundy<br />

Hard<br />

Soapy<br />

Moldy<br />

Rough<br />

Musty<br />

Sharp/Salty<br />

Hidy<br />

Vinegary<br />

Fauna<br />

Baggy<br />

Tippy<br />

Pungent creosoty–phenolic<br />

Salty briny–brackish<br />

Sharp astringent–rough<br />

Soury acrid–hard<br />

Sweet acidy–mellow<br />

Winey tangy–tart<br />

Vanilla-like<br />

Grainy<br />

Berryish<br />

Leathery<br />

Woody<br />

Malty<br />

Grassy<br />

Burnt<br />

Acerbic<br />

Insipid<br />

Green<br />

Charred<br />

Caustic<br />

Vapid<br />

Hay-like<br />

Ashy<br />

Rancid<br />

Bland<br />

Strawy<br />

Carbony<br />

Alkaline<br />

Neutral<br />

Citrusy<br />

Tobaccoey<br />

Cedary<br />

Woody<br />

Tarry<br />

Brackish<br />

Stale<br />

Papery<br />

Fishy<br />

Briny<br />

Cocoa<br />

Cardboardy<br />

Rubbery<br />

Astringent<br />

Pasty<br />

Baked<br />

Creosoty<br />

oT h e r co m P l i m e nT s<br />

Balanced<br />

Bright<br />

Brisk<br />

Clean<br />

Complex<br />

Deep<br />

Delicate<br />

Fresh<br />

Gentle<br />

Mild<br />

Te r m s no T so co m P l i m e nT A r y<br />

Biting<br />

Flat<br />

AciDiTy<br />

Bright<br />

Winey<br />

Fruity<br />

Bo D y<br />

Oily<br />

Buttery<br />

Thick<br />

Finish<br />

Resonate<br />

Fresh<br />

Hard<br />

ro A s T TA i n T s<br />

Underdeveloped<br />

Grassy<br />

Vapid<br />

Thin<br />

DA r k ro A s T TA i n T s<br />

Carbony<br />

Pungent<br />

Br e w e D iT e m s<br />

Strong<br />

Insipid<br />

Stale<br />

Notes<br />

Moderate<br />

Brisk<br />

Tangy<br />

Heavy<br />

Full<br />

Watery<br />

Long<br />

Weak<br />

Rounded<br />

Past-croppish<br />

Scorched<br />

Rubbery<br />

Bitter<br />

Full<br />

Vapid<br />

Weak<br />

Mellow<br />

Resonate<br />

Rich<br />

Round<br />

Smooth<br />

Edgy<br />

Dull<br />

Sweet<br />

Smooth<br />

Nippy<br />

Creamy<br />

Thin<br />

Light<br />

Clean<br />

Astringent<br />

Fast-fading<br />

Baked<br />

Green<br />

Fishy<br />

Creosoty<br />

Acerbic<br />

Thin<br />

Brackish<br />

S<strong>of</strong>t<br />

Strong<br />

Sweet<br />

Velvety<br />

Insipid<br />

Negligible<br />

Piquant<br />

S<strong>of</strong>t<br />

Flat<br />

Medium<br />

Negligible<br />

Stale<br />

Tippy<br />

Tarry<br />

Burnt<br />

Watery<br />

Briny<br />

34 roast September | October 2004 35<br />

FRee INFO #136


Why ANOTheR<br />

CUPPING GlOssARy?<br />

Mainly because we have more<br />

novice roasters in this country<br />

than ever before, and many have<br />

limited cupping experience. It is<br />

likely that most are accustomed to<br />

using abbreviated glossaries with<br />

only the most basic terms. The<br />

assessments made at a cupping<br />

session are usually documented<br />

by a written record on a cupping<br />

form. If that record is going to<br />

serve a useful purpose when<br />

called upon in the future, it needs<br />

to be concise and clear to anyone<br />

familiar with the language. This<br />

is not to say that one needs the<br />

Oxford International Dictionary<br />

to cup, but even the best <strong>of</strong> us<br />

get stumped now and then for<br />

just the right word to express a<br />

thought.<br />

These descriptions are<br />

not made up by me, but are a<br />

compilation <strong>of</strong> many glossaries<br />

that I have collected over 30<br />

years. It is not to be considered<br />

definitive or end-all. Glossaries<br />

are just aids for clarity <strong>of</strong> thought<br />

and notation, both <strong>of</strong> which are<br />

germane to the cupping process.<br />

In the past, only seasoned<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>essionals were responsible<br />

for buying green c<strong>of</strong>fee for large<br />

regional and national roasting<br />

companies. These people came<br />

up through the ranks and<br />

learned the language <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

quality over a number <strong>of</strong> years.<br />

Today many small neighborhood<br />

micro-roasteries are owned by<br />

young entrepreneurs who have<br />

entered the business with little or<br />

no c<strong>of</strong>fee trade experience other<br />

than ordering a Frappuccino at<br />

Starbucks. I hope this glossary<br />

will help those who have reached<br />

a plateau and wish to hone their<br />

cupping skills in order to describe<br />

the “specialty” in specialty c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

–Robert Barker<br />

A<br />

Ac e r B i c A taste fault in brewed<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee that leaves an acrid and sour<br />

taste. The result <strong>of</strong> leaving brewed<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee on heat.<br />

AciDiTy A pleasing piquant or<br />

tangy quality characteristic <strong>of</strong> highgrown<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees. Acidity is a perceived<br />

taste quality—it is not a measure<br />

<strong>of</strong> pH, nor does it have anything<br />

to do with stomach irritation.<br />

Acidity may be high, medium,<br />

low or lacking altogether. High<br />

acidity gives a fresh, clean quality to<br />

brewed c<strong>of</strong>fee. Low acidity c<strong>of</strong>fees<br />

are <strong>of</strong>ten described as dull or flat.<br />

Ac iD y A pleasant and sweet<br />

liveliness in the brew. Acidy toward<br />

sweet is called nippy, while acidy<br />

toward sour is termed piquant.<br />

Ac r i D A taste sensation related<br />

to soury. An irritating and piercing<br />

taste associated with harsh, bitter<br />

and pungent sensations. Typified<br />

by some Rio c<strong>of</strong>fees from Brazil.<br />

Sometimes found in over-roasted<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

AF T e r TA s T e Your mind’s second<br />

opinion and lingering memory.<br />

The nose and taste sensation after<br />

swallowing. See nose and finish.<br />

Al k A l i n e A secondary taste<br />

sensation related to pungent. It can<br />

be a displeasing bitterness in darkroast<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

Ar o m A The odor <strong>of</strong> the prepared<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee beverage. It may be lacking,<br />

faint, delicate, moderate, strong or<br />

fragrant (also called aromatic). It<br />

may be pleasing or not, and it is not<br />

always a good indication <strong>of</strong> taste.<br />

Prominent scents are nutty, herbal,<br />

berry-like and citrus-like.<br />

As h y Reminds one <strong>of</strong> a fireplace<br />

after the fire is out. Within certain<br />

limits, a positive characteristic in<br />

dark roasts.<br />

As T r i n g e n T A pronounced<br />

and irritatingly bitter and salty<br />

taste sensation characterized by<br />

puckering. Most <strong>of</strong>ten noted in<br />

aftertaste. As in the taste <strong>of</strong> alum or<br />

as noted in some over-steeped teas.<br />

B<br />

BA g g y An <strong>of</strong>f-taste or smell<br />

similar to that <strong>of</strong> burlap bags. Either<br />

a storage problem or biological in<br />

nature. Similar to corky as it relates<br />

to some wines.<br />

BA k e D A taste and odor<br />

description given to c<strong>of</strong>fee roasted<br />

too slowly at too low a temperature.<br />

Caused by under-development<br />

<strong>of</strong> the bean during roasting due<br />

to insufficient rate <strong>of</strong> heat input.<br />

Results in an insipid taste and a flat<br />

bouquet. See underdeveloped.<br />

BA l A n c e D Denoting a pleasing<br />

combination <strong>of</strong> two or more<br />

primary taste sensations.<br />

Containing all the basic<br />

characteristics to the right extent<br />

and aesthetically pleasing. See<br />

round.<br />

Be r r y i s h A scent or flavor<br />

reminiscent <strong>of</strong> blackberry,<br />

boysenberry, etc.<br />

BiTing Very pronounced or<br />

intense. Generally associated with<br />

acidity, sourness or bitterness.<br />

Bi T T e r A harsh, unpleasant<br />

taste detected on the back <strong>of</strong> the<br />

tongue. All c<strong>of</strong>fees have a slight<br />

bitterness that is characteristic <strong>of</strong><br />

the roasting process and is not<br />

always considered undesirable.<br />

Moderate bitterness can be<br />

balanced by sweetness. As a defect,<br />

it is usually associated with a green<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee defect, over-roasting or overextraction<br />

<strong>of</strong> the brewed c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

Sometimes associated with overly<br />

acidic c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

Bl A n D A somewhat disappointing<br />

flavor resulting from an unfortunate<br />

balance <strong>of</strong> saltiness and sweetness.<br />

Bland toward sweet=s<strong>of</strong>t. Bland<br />

toward salty=neutral. Common in<br />

low-grown c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

Bo D y The impression <strong>of</strong> viscosity<br />

in the mouth. Mouthfeel <strong>of</strong> the<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee as related to the strength and<br />

chemistry <strong>of</strong> the brew. Some c<strong>of</strong>fees<br />

have more or less oily constituents<br />

released into the brew. Body may<br />

be described as watery, thin, slight,<br />

light, medium, full or heavy.<br />

Extremely heavy-bodied c<strong>of</strong>fees<br />

may be referred to as thick, buttery,<br />

chewy or creamy. Body cannot be<br />

assessed in weakly brewed c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

Not a measure <strong>of</strong> actual viscosity.<br />

Bo u q u e T Usually a reference to<br />

an overall aroma impression <strong>of</strong><br />

brewed c<strong>of</strong>fee. The total aromatic<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>ile <strong>of</strong> the initial fragrance <strong>of</strong> the<br />

dry ground c<strong>of</strong>fee plus the aroma<br />

<strong>of</strong> the brewed c<strong>of</strong>fee and the nose<br />

impression when drinking. See<br />

aftertaste and finish.<br />

Br A c k i s h A salty or alkaline<br />

taste fault found in the c<strong>of</strong>fee or<br />

in the water used in the brewing.<br />

Also occurs when excessive heat is<br />

applied after brewing. Distastefully<br />

bitter and salty.<br />

Br i c k y The smell <strong>of</strong> clay bricks or<br />

concrete.<br />

Br i n y A saline taste fault<br />

associated with brewed c<strong>of</strong>fee held<br />

on heat too long. See salty and<br />

brackish.<br />

Br i s k/Br i g h T Qualitative terms<br />

for acidity.<br />

Bu r n T A bitter, smoky or tarry<br />

flavor characteristic common<br />

in dark-roasted c<strong>of</strong>fees. Can be<br />

accompanied by fishy, rubbery, ashy<br />

or charred.<br />

Bu T T e r y A full and rich flavor<br />

with an oily body or texture.<br />

Commonly used to describe<br />

espresso-style beverages. See Body.<br />

C<br />

cA r A m e l ly The smell or taste <strong>of</strong><br />

sweet caramels without any trace <strong>of</strong><br />

burntness.<br />

cA r A m e l i z e D Burnt-like flavor, as<br />

in caramelized sugar. A desirable<br />

taste note if complemented with a<br />

strong c<strong>of</strong>fee flavor. A loss in c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

flavor enhances the caramelized<br />

flavor.<br />

cA r D B o A r D y The taste or smell <strong>of</strong><br />

wet cardboard. See papery.<br />

cA r B o n y An excessive aftertaste<br />

sensation present in some dark<br />

roasted c<strong>of</strong>fees. See burnt.<br />

cA u s T i c A taste sensation related<br />

to harsh. A sour taste that increases<br />

as the brew cools.<br />

ce D A r i s h An aroma scent<br />

reminiscent <strong>of</strong> cedar. A positive woody<br />

taste.<br />

ce r e A l The aroma or taste <strong>of</strong> malt<br />

or bread. See malty and toasty. A clean<br />

fresh grain smell.<br />

ch e m i cA l A taste or aroma<br />

suggesting a phenolic or hydrocarbon<br />

presence. See medicinal. It may be<br />

inherent in the c<strong>of</strong>fee or the result <strong>of</strong><br />

contamination.<br />

ch o c o l AT y A positive taste or aroma<br />

reminiscent <strong>of</strong> unsweetened chocolate<br />

and/or vanilla. An aftertaste common<br />

in Yemen Mochas and Ethiopian<br />

Harrars. A common dark roast<br />

characteristic.<br />

ci n n A m o n An underlying spice<br />

accent sometimes detected in the<br />

aroma or a flavor nuance in light<br />

roasts. Also a term describing a light<br />

roast.<br />

ci T r u s y A scent or flavor note <strong>of</strong><br />

citrus prominent in some East African<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

cl e A n Opposite <strong>of</strong> dirty. The term<br />

“clean cup” refers to a c<strong>of</strong>fee free <strong>of</strong><br />

taints or faults. Does not necessarily<br />

imply clarity <strong>of</strong> flavor impression.<br />

Washed c<strong>of</strong>fees <strong>of</strong>ten taste “cleaner”<br />

than natural-processed c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

Synonymous with clarity in taste.<br />

co c o A A sweetish chocolate smell <strong>of</strong><br />

completely stale roasted c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

Not to be confused with chocolaty.<br />

co m P l e x iT y Balance and intensity<br />

in flavor. The impression <strong>of</strong> a wellblended<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee. An interesting mix <strong>of</strong><br />

flavors, undertones and aftertastes.<br />

Opposite <strong>of</strong> dull or one-dimensional.<br />

A hallmark <strong>of</strong> specialty c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

cr e A m y A measure <strong>of</strong> body<br />

somewhat less than buttery.<br />

cr e o s o T y A taste sensation related<br />

to pungent. A bitter, burnt vegetal<br />

taste found in the aftertaste <strong>of</strong> some<br />

dark-roasted c<strong>of</strong>fees. Similar to tarry.<br />

36 roast September | October 2004 37<br />

D<br />

De e P Implying depth and intensity.<br />

See complexity.<br />

De l i cAT e Pleasing to taste or smell.<br />

A sensation that is mild, subtle and<br />

sometimes fleeting. See mellow. Some<br />

cuppers use the term gentle.<br />

Di r T y An undesirable, unclean smell<br />

or taste. Can imply a defect such as<br />

sourness, earthiness or mustiness.<br />

Something foul or foreign in the taste.<br />

Dr y-P r o c e s s e D C<strong>of</strong>fees harvested<br />

and dried in cherry. Also called<br />

natural-processed c<strong>of</strong>fee. C<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

processing can determine the<br />

presence and strength <strong>of</strong> certain<br />

aromas and tastes prominent in the<br />

brew. Knowing whether a c<strong>of</strong>fee is<br />

washed or dry-processed will suggest<br />

different expectations in several major<br />

characteristics. Dry-processed c<strong>of</strong>fees<br />

are expected to have more strength,<br />

less acidity and heavier body than<br />

their washed counterparts. There are<br />

several processes between the fully<br />

washed process and the traditional<br />

dry process. You may see terms such<br />

as semi-washed or pulped natural.<br />

Knowing the process is helpful in<br />

making a quality assessment. See<br />

washed process and natural.<br />

Du l l Lack <strong>of</strong> character. Opposite<br />

<strong>of</strong> round. May be flat or notably<br />

unimpressive. Indicates c<strong>of</strong>fee that<br />

has lost its original or usual zest and<br />

character. Gives the impression <strong>of</strong><br />

roundness but at the same time lacks<br />

character.<br />

FRee INFO #147 FRee INFO #123<br />

E<br />

eD g y A taste flaw bordering on hard.<br />

See sharp.<br />

eA r T h y A complex mustiness found<br />

in certain dry-processed, low-acid<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees. Often considered a taint in<br />

washed c<strong>of</strong>fees. The smell <strong>of</strong> freshly<br />

turned soil. See potatoey, dirty, groundy.<br />

F<br />

FA u n A Wet dog, animal-like smell.<br />

See Hidy.<br />

Fe r m e n T e D A sour or acrid<br />

vinegar taste or smell. Obvious and<br />

unpleasant. The most common<br />

processing error following harvesting.<br />

Fi n e c u P An ambiguous term best<br />

defined by the user. A c<strong>of</strong>fee with<br />

apparently acceptable taste qualities.<br />

Commonly used as a grade descriptor<br />

from certain origins. Also “Good clean<br />

cup,” “Fair average cup.”<br />

Finish The lingering taste on the<br />

tongue. An aftertaste that can be<br />

continued on page 38


the same as the cup flavor or evolve<br />

into nuances. Usually, heavy-bodied<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees will have a longer finish. Rated<br />

by quality and persistence.<br />

Fl AT A descriptor <strong>of</strong> a c<strong>of</strong>fee’s<br />

bouquet. Lacking intensity. A dull<br />

lifeless quality due to staling or age.<br />

Also, when referring to acidity it<br />

means without acidity or very slight<br />

acidity.<br />

Fl A v o r The total impression <strong>of</strong><br />

aroma, acidity and body. Usually<br />

described with specific major taste<br />

impressions. Rated from weak to<br />

strong, poor to exceptional.<br />

Fl o r A l A smell <strong>of</strong> flowers with a<br />

pleasant sense <strong>of</strong> freshness.<br />

Fr Ag r A n c e Odor <strong>of</strong> the dry c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

grinds prior to brewing (aroma<br />

describes the brewed c<strong>of</strong>fee). See<br />

bouquet. Sweet scents can indicate<br />

acidity. Pungent scents can lead to<br />

sharp tastes. Intensity can be a measure<br />

<strong>of</strong> freshness. Ranges from sweetly floral<br />

to sweetly spicy.<br />

Fr e s h Opposite <strong>of</strong> stale. A recent<br />

roast. A distinctly pleasing scent.<br />

Fr u i T y Denotes the aromatic scents<br />

<strong>of</strong> citrus or berry fruit in the cup<br />

aroma. Also, a flavor taint bordering<br />

on fermented. A sharp, piquant,<br />

pungent or vinegary taste associated<br />

with over fermentation. A strong overripe<br />

characteristic prevalent in c<strong>of</strong>fees<br />

left too long in the cherry.<br />

G<br />

CUPPING GlOssARy ( continued)<br />

gr A i n y The taste sensation <strong>of</strong><br />

toasted grain. See cereal.<br />

gr A s s y A flavor taint indicating a<br />

slight chlorophyll taste. Can be found<br />

in fresh green c<strong>of</strong>fee insufficiently<br />

dried. An odor and taste taint giving<br />

the c<strong>of</strong>fee a distinct herbal character<br />

similar to the odor <strong>of</strong> freshly mown<br />

alfalfa and the astringent taste <strong>of</strong> green<br />

grass. Said to be found in new crop<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees due to immature beans. More<br />

pronounced in under-roasted c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

gr e e n A flavor tint usually<br />

associated with under-ripe c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

beans. In roasted c<strong>of</strong>fee it is usually<br />

associated with under-roasting or lack<br />

<strong>of</strong> development. Also grassy, pasty.<br />

gr o u n D y Synonym for earthy.<br />

H<br />

hA r D Opposite <strong>of</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t, sweet or mild.<br />

Description <strong>of</strong> Brazils between s<strong>of</strong>t<br />

and rioy. Considered a secondary taste<br />

sensation to soury. Also bricky or edgy.<br />

hA r s h Crude raw taste used to<br />

describe certain Brazils and robustas.<br />

An obvious presence <strong>of</strong> bitter and<br />

astringent compounds. Can be caustic<br />

or medicinal.<br />

hAy -l i k e See strawy or grassy.<br />

he A v y Quantitative term for body or<br />

mouthfeel.<br />

he r B A l Fragrance note similar to<br />

garden herbs. See spicy.<br />

he r B y Found in cup aroma<br />

resembling the odor or flavor <strong>of</strong> herb.<br />

A cooked vegetable odor. Taints can<br />

range from oniony to cabbagy.<br />

hiD y Unpleasant odor reminiscent<br />

<strong>of</strong> wet leather or wet dog. Can also<br />

be described as fauna. Can be caused<br />

by excessive heat during the drying<br />

process usually associated with c<strong>of</strong>fees<br />

dried in mechanical dryers.<br />

I<br />

insiPiD A lifeless brew caused by<br />

staling and exposure prior to brewing.<br />

in T e n s i T y Measure <strong>of</strong> the total<br />

impression <strong>of</strong> bouquet.<br />

L<br />

le AT h e ry The aroma <strong>of</strong> a luggage<br />

retail shop. The smell <strong>of</strong> fine leather.<br />

M<br />

mA lT y A toasted cereal grain aroma.<br />

A smell or taste <strong>of</strong> malted grain or<br />

sourdough bread. See toasty.<br />

meDicinAl Reminds one <strong>of</strong> a<br />

pharmacy or hospital. Obviously a<br />

negative note. A harsh flavor or smell<br />

similar to disinfectant, chlorine, iodine<br />

or some phenol compounds.<br />

me l l o w A sweet c<strong>of</strong>fee that is wellbalanced<br />

with low to medium acidity.<br />

Mellow toward sweet=mild. Mellow<br />

toward salty=delicate.<br />

me TA l l i c Said to be caused by<br />

immature beans due to poor grading.<br />

May be accompanied by astringent or<br />

bitter tastes.<br />

mi l D A taste sensation associated<br />

with mellow. A smooth and s<strong>of</strong>t or<br />

sweet washed c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

mo l D y /mo u l D y Fungus infected.<br />

Ruined by dampness due to poor<br />

storage. Improperly dried c<strong>of</strong>fee can<br />

become moldy in storage or during<br />

shipping in containers.<br />

mu s T y A smell associated with<br />

earthy. Slight mustiness is not always a<br />

taint especially in aged or monsooned<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees. As a taint it will have the smell<br />

<strong>of</strong> an overly musty cellar. See bricky.<br />

N<br />

nAT u r A l co F F e e Natural-processed<br />

or dry-processed c<strong>of</strong>fees. Naturalprocessed<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees are usually different<br />

from wet-processed c<strong>of</strong>fees in that<br />

they may lack clarity <strong>of</strong> flavor and<br />

pointed acidity. Some may have a more<br />

intense complex flavor and fuller body.<br />

See washed c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

ne g l i g i B l e Something less than<br />

slight or delicate. Almost none.<br />

ne u T r A l A fundamentally<br />

characterless, in<strong>of</strong>fensive or insipid<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee without virtue yet without<br />

defects. Basically, a c<strong>of</strong>fee safe for<br />

economical blending. A desirable<br />

character in robustas and in otherwise<br />

undistinguished Brazils. Boring.<br />

ni P P y A taste sensation perceived<br />

from a very clean high-acidity c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

Bright, brisk or biting. See acidy.<br />

no s e The combination <strong>of</strong> taste and<br />

smell when swallowing c<strong>of</strong>fee. The<br />

aroma component <strong>of</strong> aftertaste. Most<br />

commonly caramelly, nutty or malty.<br />

nu T T y Said <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fees that lack a<br />

bold c<strong>of</strong>fee flavor or have a flavor that<br />

suggests a specific nut, such as fresh<br />

almonds, roasted nuts, etc.<br />

O<br />

on i o n y An <strong>of</strong>f-taste reminiscent <strong>of</strong><br />

onion. See herby.<br />

P<br />

PA P e r y An <strong>of</strong>f-taste suggesting the<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> wet paper or cardboard. Most<br />

common in decaf c<strong>of</strong>fees. An obvious<br />

taste contribution from paper filters.<br />

PA s T-c r o P P i s h Said <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fees<br />

that have deteriorated in the green<br />

state before roasting and, thus, taste<br />

weakened or toned down. Particularly<br />

with less acidity and a heavy woody or<br />

papery flavor and little body. Aroma<br />

will also suffer in past-crop c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

See strawy, wood and neutral.<br />

PA s T y The smell or taste <strong>of</strong><br />

elementary school white paste.<br />

Sometimes associated with baked.<br />

Pe A s y A disagreeable taste <strong>of</strong> cooked<br />

green peas. A microbiological taint<br />

similar to that causing oniony and<br />

potatoey taints. These taints are<br />

usually limited to certain origins.<br />

Pe T r o l e u m Smell or taste usually<br />

originating from contamination.<br />

Often found in c<strong>of</strong>fee stored in poorly<br />

manufactured bags.<br />

Pi q uA n T Acidy. A pronounced and<br />

pleasant pungent acidity slightly tart<br />

or biting. Synonymous with tangy and<br />

pointed.<br />

Po i n T /Po i n T e D Fine acidity<br />

sharpness. A c<strong>of</strong>fee with good flavor<br />

characteristics.<br />

Po TAT o e y A disagreeable and<br />

unpleasant taste <strong>of</strong> raw potato. See<br />

peasy. Sometimes associated with<br />

earthy.<br />

Pr u n y The fruit-like taste<br />

reminiscent <strong>of</strong> prune found in some<br />

dark-roast c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

Pu n g e n T A primary taste sensation<br />

related to the presence <strong>of</strong> bitter<br />

compounds. Usually from phenolic<br />

compounds that range in taste from<br />

creosoty to alkaline. Not to be confused<br />

with earthy.<br />

R<br />

rA n c i D Having a rank odor or taste<br />

as that <strong>of</strong> old oil. A sour and very<br />

unpleasant smell. See stale.<br />

rA n k Offensively gross or coarse.<br />

Foul or rancid. A dirty unpleasant<br />

flavor due mainly to contamination<br />

or over-fermentation. A grading term<br />

used in Brazil.<br />

re s o n A n T Recurring. A long,<br />

pleasing aftertaste.<br />

ri c h Mainly a descriptor for bouquet.<br />

Also used to indicate depth and<br />

complexity <strong>of</strong> flavor, big pleasing<br />

aroma and full body. Overused.<br />

ri o y A harsh medicinal or slightly<br />

iodized, phenolic or carbolic flavor<br />

typical to certain Brazils. Said to be a<br />

regional characteristic. Considered a<br />

taint by most roasters but appreciated<br />

by others as a blender.<br />

ro u n D Commonly used term for a<br />

balanced and rich c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

ro u n D e D A quantitative descriptor<br />

for a moderate bouquet.<br />

ro u g h An unpleasant taste<br />

sensation related to sharp. An<br />

unflattering description <strong>of</strong> some<br />

natural robustas.<br />

ru B B e r y Burnt rubber odor<br />

characteristic <strong>of</strong> some robustas. Noted<br />

in some dark roasts.<br />

38 roast September | October 2004 39<br />

S<br />

sA lT y One <strong>of</strong> the four basic taste<br />

sensations, yet saltiness rarely comes<br />

to the forefront in c<strong>of</strong>fee taste. When it<br />

does, it is just perceptible. See sharp.<br />

sc o r c h e D A roasting defect resulting<br />

in an odor taint that gives the c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

brew a slight smoky-burnt aftertaste<br />

with an overall under-developed taste.<br />

sh A r P Intense flavor taint resulting<br />

in salty and soury compounds.<br />

Sharp towards salty is termed rough.<br />

Sharp towards soury is astringent.<br />

When used in reference to acidity, it<br />

can be a complimentary term relating<br />

to tangy and nippy. A moderately<br />

strong perception <strong>of</strong> acidity.<br />

sm o k y Reminds one <strong>of</strong> smoked<br />

food. Usually a positive descriptor, and<br />

more common in dark roasts.<br />

sm o o T h A quantitative descriptor for<br />

moderately low-bodied c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

Also referring to a full-bodied, lowacidity<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee. See mellow.<br />

Sometimes used to describe acidity.<br />

so A P y An <strong>of</strong>f-taste similar to earthy<br />

and dirty.<br />

so F T Low acidity c<strong>of</strong>fees that have a<br />

light or very light acidity just short <strong>of</strong><br />

bland. When associated with Brazils, a<br />

character that is mild and not harsh. A<br />

mild c<strong>of</strong>fee with a dry aftertaste.<br />

so u r One <strong>of</strong> the four basic tastes.<br />

Sweet, sour, salty and bitter.<br />

so u r y A distinctly sour, rank or<br />

rancid taste <strong>of</strong>ten due to improper<br />

processing. Not to be confused with<br />

acidy and acidity. Soury toward salty<br />

is acrid. Pronounced soury is hard.<br />

See sharp.<br />

sP i c y Said <strong>of</strong> aroma or flavor<br />

suggestive <strong>of</strong> spices. Sometimes<br />

associated with aromatic, piquant or<br />

pungent. Suggesting cloves, cinnamon,<br />

nutmeg, etc.<br />

sTA l e An unpleasant taste fault<br />

found in old and deteriorated roasted<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee. <strong>Roast</strong>ed c<strong>of</strong>fee that has faded<br />

in quality after excessive storage or<br />

exposure to air. Aroma <strong>of</strong> stale c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

changes from flat to rancid and finally<br />

to cocoa-like, while the flavor <strong>of</strong> stale<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee changes from bitter to rancid<br />

and cardboardy.<br />

sT r A w y A taste taint that gives a<br />

distinct hay-like and woody flavor. See<br />

past-crop and under-developed.<br />

sT r e n g T h Usually a term<br />

quantifying brewed c<strong>of</strong>fee. Strength<br />

is conveyed through concentration <strong>of</strong><br />

soluble solids in suspension not the<br />

prominence <strong>of</strong> any one characteristic.<br />

sT r o n g A term indicating strength<br />

derived from greater soluble solids in<br />

the extraction or intensity <strong>of</strong> any one<br />

characteristic <strong>of</strong> note. It is also used as<br />

an adjective to virtue or defect (as in<br />

“a strong sour taste” or “a strong fine<br />

aroma”).<br />

sw e e T One <strong>of</strong> the four basic tastes.<br />

Also the recognition <strong>of</strong> sweetness or<br />

the absence <strong>of</strong> bitterness in a c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

Said <strong>of</strong> a smooth, palatable c<strong>of</strong>fee, free<br />

<strong>of</strong> taints or harshness. See mild. Also<br />

used as a descriptor for acidity.<br />

sw e e T ly F l o r A l Flowery scent<br />

commonly found in some fresh grinds.<br />

See fragrance.<br />

sw e e T ly s P i c y Spicy scent<br />

commonly found in some fresh grinds.<br />

Reminiscent <strong>of</strong> aromatic spices, such<br />

as cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg etc.<br />

See fragrance.<br />

T<br />

TA n g y A secondary taste sensation<br />

related to Winey. A somewhat sour and<br />

fruity sensation.<br />

TA r r y A taste fault giving a burnt<br />

character. See rubbery.<br />

TA r T A secondary taste sensation<br />

related to Winey. A sour sensation<br />

between tangy and soury.<br />

TA s T e The total sensory impression<br />

<strong>of</strong> the three combined basic tastes<br />

<strong>of</strong> sweetness, saltiness and sourness<br />

resulting in six primary tastes:<br />

Acidy: Acids increase the<br />

sweetness <strong>of</strong> sugars. Piquant to<br />

nippy<br />

Mellow: Salts increase the<br />

sweetness <strong>of</strong> sugars. Mild to<br />

delicate<br />

Winey: Sugars reduce the sour<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> acids. Tangy to tart<br />

Bland: Sugars reduce the saltiness<br />

<strong>of</strong> salts. S<strong>of</strong>t to neutral<br />

Sharp: Acids increase the saltiness<br />

<strong>of</strong> salts. Rough to astringent<br />

Sour: Salts reduce the sourness <strong>of</strong><br />

acids. Hard to acrid<br />

Te r r o i r The personality and<br />

character in aroma and taste<br />

represented by a c<strong>of</strong>fee’s origin. An<br />

overall flavor pr<strong>of</strong>ile common to a<br />

particular growing region, district,<br />

altitude or processing style.<br />

Th i c k Exaggerated term to indicate<br />

an extremely heavy body.<br />

Th i n Said <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fees that lack body or<br />

flavor. Typical <strong>of</strong> low-grown c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

Ti P P e D/Ti P P y A roasting fault<br />

usually caused by starting the roasting<br />

process with an excessively high<br />

roaster drum temperature or simply<br />

roasting too fast for the type <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

Tipping is the charring <strong>of</strong> the ends<br />

<strong>of</strong> the c<strong>of</strong>fee beans. Tippy is the<br />

recognition <strong>of</strong> a charred flavor to an<br />

otherwise good c<strong>of</strong>fee.<br />

To A s T y Aroma <strong>of</strong> fresh toast or<br />

fresh-baked bread.<br />

To B A c c o e y An aroma scent<br />

reminiscent <strong>of</strong> a tobacco shop or<br />

aromatic pipe tobacco.<br />

Tu r P e n y A medicinal aftertaste<br />

reminiscent <strong>of</strong> turpentine, resin or<br />

camphor-like substances.<br />

U<br />

un D e r -D e v e lo P e D C<strong>of</strong>fee roasted<br />

too slowly at too low a temperature.<br />

See baked.<br />

V<br />

vA P i D Lacking character and<br />

liveliness. Particularly lacking acidity,<br />

tang or briskness. Synonymous with<br />

insipid, dull, flat.<br />

ve lv e T y Heavy in strength and body,<br />

low in acidity.<br />

vi n e g A r y A sour <strong>of</strong>f-taste related to<br />

ferment.<br />

W<br />

wA s h e D /we T P r o c e s s Post-harvest<br />

process <strong>of</strong> separating the seeds<br />

from the fruit before drying. Most<br />

important is the intermediate step <strong>of</strong><br />

controlled fermentation between the<br />

pulping and the rinsing and drying<br />

phase. Poor processing can lead to<br />

defects that can render the c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

unusable. The most common taint<br />

is an overly strong fermented taste<br />

that cannot be removed or masked by<br />

blending. On the other hand, properly<br />

washed c<strong>of</strong>fees typically exhibit<br />

sweetness, clarity and good acidity. See<br />

dry process and natural.<br />

wAT e r y Relating to body, thin.<br />

Relating to strength, weak in flavor<br />

either due to the available soluble<br />

solids in the bean or to the ratio <strong>of</strong><br />

grounds to water.<br />

wi n e y A bittersweet fruity quality<br />

characteristic <strong>of</strong> a fine red wine. A<br />

sweet soury taste. Winey toward sweet<br />

is termed tangy, while winey toward<br />

sour is described as tart. Sometimes<br />

used to describe acidity.<br />

wo o D y A flavor taint characteristic<br />

<strong>of</strong> past-croppish c<strong>of</strong>fees and those<br />

grown at lower altitude. A desirable<br />

scent or flavor when reminiscent<br />

<strong>of</strong> a fine wood such as cedar or<br />

sandalwood (similar to the oaky taste<br />

<strong>of</strong> a good Chardonnay).<br />

RObeRT bARkeR has worked in<br />

the c<strong>of</strong>fee industry for 25 years<br />

as a c<strong>of</strong>fee producer, importer,<br />

trader, buyer and trainer. He is<br />

currently a contractor for C<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

Review and an occasional<br />

consultant. He can be reached at<br />

barker.robert@att.net.<br />

Many thanks to the SCAA, Ted<br />

Lingle, Michael Sivetz, Donald<br />

Schoenholt, Ernesto Illy and<br />

Kenneth Davids, who have all<br />

given much time and effort to<br />

educate us over the years.

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