sleeping in civita or Bagnoregio - Rick Steves

civita
186 Rick Steves’ Hidden Europe
$ Civita B&B, run by Franco Sala (who also owns Trattoria
Antico Forno), has three fine little rooms, each overlooking Civita’s
main square (S-€45, Sb-€50, D-€65, Db-€70, T-€90, continental
breakfast, Wi-Fi, Piazza del Duomo Vecchio, tel. 076-176-0016,
mobile 347-611-5426, www.civitadibagnoregio.it, fsala@pelagus.it).
in Bagnoregio
$$ Romantica Pucci B&B is a haven for city-weary travelers.
Its eight spacious rooms are indeed romantic, with canopied beds
and flowing veils. Both homey and elegant, it’s like sleeping at
Katharine Hepburn’s place. Lamberto takes special care of his
guests (Db-€80, air-con, free time-limited Internet access, free
parking, “Pucci Speciality” €20 family-style dinner is popular with
guests—non-guests are also welcome for dinner, Piazza Cavour
1, tel. 076-179-2121, www.hotelromanticapucci.it, hotelromantica
pucci@libero.it). It’s just above the parking lot you see when you
arrive in Bagnoregio—look for a sign marking its private parking
place. From the bus stop, take Via Garibaldi uphill above the
parking lot, bear right at the tobacco shop onto Via Roma, then
look for the hotel sign straight ahead.
$ Hotel Divino Amore has 23 bright, modern rooms, some
with perfect views of a miniature Civita (Db-€70, Tb-€80, Via
Fidanza 25-27, tel. & fax 076-178-0882, mobile 329-344-8950,
www.hoteldivinoamore.com, info@hoteldivinoamore.com). From
the bus stop, follow Via Garibaldi uphill above the parking lot,
where it becomes Via Fidanza, and continue straight along for
about 200 yards; #25 is on the left.
outside of Town
$ Agriturismo Le Corone, in the valley below Civita, is an economical
answer if you dream of a lazy few days relaxing among
the olive trees. Flexible Fabrizio of Antico Frantoio Bruschetteria
will pick you up from Bagnoregio, then drive you 10 minutes along
a winding road to a simple but cozy home with a kitchen/living
room, two bedrooms, and small garden. Civita is a steep- but-
picturesque 45-minute uphill hike away (or persuade Fabrizio to
give you a ride), and firewood is provided for romantic evenings
(€35/night per person, maximum 6 people, no minimum occupancy,
home-cooked pasta dinner-€10, Strade della Valle, mobile
328-689-9375, www.corone-civita.com, info@corone-civita.com).
Eating in civita or Bagnoregio
in Civita
Osteria Al Forno di Agnese is a delightful spot where Manuela
and her friends serve visitors simple yet delicious meals on a cov-
Italy: Civita di Bagnoregio 187
ered patio just off Civita’s main square (€8 pastas, €9 secondi, opens
daily at 12:00 for lunch and at 19:00 for dinner, sometimes closed
Tue, tel. 340-1259-721).
Trattoria Antico Forno cooks up rustic dishes, homemade
pasta, and salads at affordable prices. Try their homemade pasta
with truffles (€7 pastas, €8 secondi, daily for lunch 12:30-15:30 and
dinner 19:00-22:00, on main square, also rents rooms—see Civita
B&B listing on previous page, tel. 076-176-0016, Franco and his
assistants Gina and Nina).
in Bagnoregio
Hostaria del Ponte is the place for serious cooking. It offers light,
creative, and traditional cuisine with a great view terrace at the
parking lot at the base of the bridge to Civita. Big space heaters
make it comfortable to enjoy the wonderful view as you dine from
their rooftop terrace, even in spring and fall (€8 pastas, €10 secondi,
reservations often essential, Tue-Sun 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-21:30,
closed Mon; Nov-April also closed Sun eve, tel. 076-179-3565,
Lorena).
Bagnoregio connections
From Bagnoregio to Orvieto: Public buses (6/day, 1 hour, €2
one-way or €4 round-trip if purchased in advance, €7 one-way or
€14 round-trip from driver) connect Bagnoregio to the rest of the
world via Orvieto. Departures from Bagnoregio—daily except
Sunday and some holidays—are likely to be (but confirm): 5:30,
9:55, 10:25, 13:00, 14:25, and 17:25. During the school year (roughly
Sept-June), buses also run at 6:30, and 13:35. Remember to save
money by buying your ticket in Bagnoregio before boarding the
bus—purchase one from the newsstand near the bus stop, across
from the gas station.
From Bagnoregio to Points South: Public buses run to
Viterbo, which has a good train connection to Rome (buses go
weekdays at 5:10, 7:15, 7:40, 10:00, 13:00, 13:45, 14:20, 14:50, and
18:05; less frequent Sat-Sun, 35 minutes).
Driving from Orvieto to Bagnoregio: Orvieto overlooks the
autostrada (and has its own exit). The shortest way to Civita from
the freeway exit is to turn left (below Orvieto) and then simply follow
the signs to Lubriano and Bagnoregio.
A more winding and scenic route takes 20 minutes longer:
From the freeway, pass under hill-capping Orvieto (on your right,
signs to Lago di Bolsena, on Viale I Maggio), then take the first
left (direction: Bagnoregio), winding up past great Orvieto views
through Canale, and through farms and fields of giant shredded
wheat to Bagnoregio.
186-187 12/15/11 12:28:32 PM
civita