sleeping in Ærøskøbing - Rick Steves

Ærø
144 Rick Steves’ Hidden Europe
WCs at each end). Each is different, but all are stained with merry
memories of locals enjoying themselves Danish-style. Bring a beverage
or picnic. It’s perfectly acceptable—and very Danish—to
borrow a porch for your sunset sit. From here, it’s a fine walk out to
the end of Urehoved (as this spit of land is called).
Cinema—The cute little 30-seat Andelen Theater (a former grain
warehouse near Torvet Square) plays movies in their original language
(Danish subtitles, closed Mon and in July—when it hosts
a jazz festival, new titles begin every Tue). It’s run in a charming
community-service kind of way. The management has installed
heat, so tickets no longer come with a blanket.
Bowling—Ærø-Bowl is a six-lane alley in a modern athletic club
at the edge of town. In this old-fashioned town, where no modern
construction is allowed in the higgledy-piggledy center, this hip
facility is a magnet for young people. One local told me, “I’ve never
seen anyone come out of there without a smile” (hot dogs, junk
food, arcade games, kids on dates; Tue-Thu 16:00-22:00, later on
Fri-Sat, closed Sun-Mon, Søndergade 28, tel. 62 52 23 06, www
.arrebowl.dk).
pubs—Ærøskøbing’s two bars are at the top and bottom of
Vestergade. Arrebo Pub, near the ferry landing, attracts a young
crowd and is the place for live music (but no food). The low-key
Landbogården was recently taken over by a Sri Lankan family
who have made it non-smoking and have started serving food—
both Indian and Danish dishes (daily for 45-75-kr lunches and
100-160-kr dinners, near the top of Vestergade).
sleeping in Ærøskøbing
The accommodations scene here is boom or bust. Summer weekends
and all of July are packed (book long in advance). It’s absolutely
dead in the winter. These places come with family-run
personality, and each is an easy stroll from the ferry landing.
in Ærøskøbing
$$$ Hotel Ærøhus is big and sprawling, with 33 rooms. Although
it is less personal and cozy than some of the other listings here, it’s
the closest thing to a grand hotel in this capital of quaint (S-600
kr, Sb-990 kr, D-800 kr, Db-1,250 kr, free Internet access and
Wi-Fi, bike rentals-75 kr/day, possible noise from large dinner
parties—ask for a quiet room, tel. 62 52 10 03, fax 62 52 21 23,
www.aeroehus-hotel.dk, mail@aeroehus.dk, Ole Jensen and family).
Their modern holiday apartments nearby are used as overflow
accommodations and can be a fine value for groups and families
(details on their website).
sleep code
Denmark: Ærø 145
(5 kr = about $1, country code: 45)
S = Single, d = Double/Twin, T = Triple, Q = Quad, b = bathroom,
s = shower. Credit cards are accepted (with a 4 percent surcharge),
staff speak English, and breakfast is included unless
otherwise noted.
To help you sort easily through these listings, I’ve divided
the accommodations into three categories, based on the price
for a double room with bath during high season:
$$$ Higher Priced—Most rooms 1,000 kr or more.
$$ Moderately Priced—Most rooms between 450-1,000 kr.
$ Lower Priced—Most rooms 450 kr or less.
Prices can change without notice; verify the hotel’s
current rates online or by email. For other updates, see www
.ricksteves.com/update.
$$ Pension Vestergade is your best home away from home in
Ærøskøbing. It’s lovingly run by Susanna Greve and her daughters,
Henrietta and Celia. Susanna,
who’s fun to talk with and is
always ready with a cup of tea,
has a wealth of knowledge about
the town’s history and takes
good care of her guests. Built in
1784 for a sea captain’s daughter,
this creaky, sagging, and venerable
eight-room place—with each
room named for its particular
color scheme—is on the main street in the town center. Picnic
in the back garden and get to know Hector, the live-in hound.
Reserve well in advance (S-600 kr year-round but doubles fluctuate,
July: D-990 kr; spring and fall: D-890 kr; winter: D-790
kr; cash only, cuddly hot-water bottles, shared bathrooms, free
Internet access and Wi-Fi, Vestergade 44, tel. 62 52 22 98, www
.vestergade44.com, pensionvestergade44@post.tele.dk).
$$ Toldbodhus B&B, a tollhouse from 1770 to 1906, now
rents four delightful rooms. Three rooms share two bathrooms in
the main house, and a small garden house has a double room with
a detached bathroom. Karin and John Steenberg—who, as avid
travelers, understand your needs—named and decorated each room
after cities they’ve lived in: Amsterdam, København, London, and
Hong Kong (April-Sept: S-750 kr, Db-890 kr; Oct-March: S-650
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Ærø

Ærø
146 Rick Steves’ Hidden Europe
kr, Db-790 kr; cash only, near harbor on corner of Smedegade
at Brogade 8, tel. 62 52 18 11, www.toldbodhus.com, toldbodhus
@mail.dk).
$$ Det Lille Hotel is a former 19th-century captain’s home
with six tidy but well-worn rooms (June-Sept: S/D-950 kr; Oct-
May: S/D-850 kr; extra bed-265 kr, free Wi-Fi, Smedegade 33,
tel. & fax 62 52 23 00, www.det-lille-hotel.dk, mail@det-lille
-hotel.dk).
$$ Bed & Beer Guest House, while sloppily run, is good
in a pinch, with seven big, modern, apartment-like rooms on the
main square (Db-750 kr, breakfast-75 kr, Torvet 7, tel. 40 29 40 50,
www.bedandbeer.dk).
outside of Ærøskøbing
$$ Vindeballe Kro, about three miles from Ærøskøbing, is a traditional
inn in Vindeballe at the island’s central crossroads. Maria
and Steen rent 10 straightforward, well-kept rooms (S-450 kr,
D-650 kr, tel. 62 52 16 13, www.vindeballekro.dk, mail@vinde
ballekro.dk; see page 141 for details on their restaurant).
$ Ærø Campground is set on a fine beach a few minutes’
walk out of town. This three-star campground offers a lodge with
a fireplace, campsites, cabins, and bike rental (camping-72 kr/
person, 4- to 6-bed cabins-125-200 kr plus per-person fee,
bedding-75 kr/person, open May-Sept; facing the water, follow
waterfront to the left; tel. 62 52 18 54, www.aeroecamp.dk).
Hostel: $ Villa Blomberg, on the edge of town, has 44 backpacker
beds in simple 2- and 4-bed rooms. It’s run by an organization
for special-needs youth, who live nearby and help run the
place as part of their job training (350 kr/person, breakfast-60 kr,
sack lunch-50 kr, Internet access, shared kitchen, rental bike-55 kr/
day, Blacksmith 15, tel. 62 52 10 44, http://villablomberg.dk, info
@villablomberg.dk).
Eating in Ærøskøbing
Ærøskøbing has a handful of charming and hardworking little
eateries. Business is so light that chefs and owners come and go
constantly, making it tough to predict the best value for the coming
year. As each place has a distinct flavor, I’d spend 20 minutes
enjoying the warm evening light and do a strolling survey before
making your choice. While there are several simple burger-type
joints, I’ve listed only the serious kitchens. Note that everything
closes by 21:00—don’t wait too late to eat (if you’ll be taking
the ferry that leaves Svendborg at 19:30—and arrives at Ærø at
20:45—either eat before your boat trip or call ahead to reserve a
place...otherwise you’re out of luck). The only places in town serv-
Denmark: Ærø 147
ing food during the winter are Addi’s Brasserie, Det Lille Hotel,
Hotel Ærøhus, and the Landbogården bar (see “Nightlife in
Ærøskøbing,” earlier).
Restaurant Mumm is where visiting yachters go for a good
and classy meal. Portions are huge, and on balmy days their garden
terrace out back is a hit. Call ahead to reserve (180-kr daily specials,
80-kr starters, 140-220-kr main courses, daily 16:30-21:00,
closed Sun-Mon off-season, near Torvet Square, tel. 62 52 12 12,
Peter Sorensen).
Café Aroma, an inexpensive Danish café that feels like a
rustic old diner, has a big front porch filled with tables and good,
reasonably priced entrées, sandwiches, and burgers for 60-175 kr.
Ask about the daily special, which will save you money and is not
listed on the confusing menu. Order at the bar (May-Aug daily
11:00-21:00, closed Sept-April, on Vestergade). They also run a
high-quality, pricey fish restaurant (aptly named Fiskerestaurant)
next door.
Ærøskøbing Røgeri serves wonderful smoked fish meals
on paper plates and picnic tables. Facing the harbor, it’s great
for a light meal (50-75 kr for fish with potato salad and bread).
Eat there or find a pleasant picnic site at the beach or at the park
behind the fish house. A smoked fish dinner and a couple of cold
Carlsbergs are a well-earned reward after a long bike ride (May-
Sept daily 11:00-18:00, in summer until 20:00, Havnen 15, tel. 62
52 40 07).
Addi’s Brasserie is a rare place that’s open all year, serving
fresh seafood and meat dishes. Eat in the main dining room
among portraits of Danish royalty, or in the larger side room (daily
lunch and dinner specials, lunch main courses-48-85 kr, dinner
main courses-180 kr, daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-21:00, across street
from Pension Vestergade, Vestergade 39, tel. 62 52 21 43).
Hotel Restaurants: Two hotels in town have dining rooms
with good but expensive food; I’d eat at the restaurants I’ve listed
above, unless they’re closed. But in a pinch, try these: Det Lille
Hotel serves meals in an inviting dining room or garden (200-kr
daily specials, 70-100-kr starters, 190-240-kr main dishes, daily
12:00-21:00, dinner only off-season—but at least they’re open yearround,
Smedegade 33, tel. 62 52 23 00, Klaus cooks with attitude).
Hotel Ærøhus is a last resort, serving creative but pricey Frenchinspired
modern fare in a sprawling complex of dining rooms, big
and small (115-kr starters, 225-300-kr main dishes, open daily, on
Vestergade, tel. 62 52 10 03).
Grocery: Buy picnic fixings plus wine and beer at the Spar
Market (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-14:00, Sun 10:00-15:00, on
Torvet Square) or the bigger Netto supermarket (chilled beer and
wine—handy for walks to the little huts on the beach at sunset,
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Ærø

Ærø
148 Rick Steves’ Hidden Europe
Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat 8:00-17:00, closed Sun, kitty-corner from
ferry dock).
Bakery: Ærøskøbing’s old-school little bakery sells homemade
bread, cheese, yogurt, and tasty pastries (Tue-Fri 7:00-17:00, Sat-
Sun 7:00-14:00, closed Mon, top of Vestergade).
Ice Cream: Halfway up the main drag (Vestergade), you’ll
smell fresh-baked waffles and see benches filled with happy icecream
lickers. Ærø Isen serves
good ice cream in fresh waffle
cones, with whipped cream and
jam topping. Their “Ærø-Isen
Special” (walnut-maple syrup
ice cream topped with whipped
cream and maple syrup) is 9
kr more than the other flavors
(daily 11:00-21:00). Be sure to
check out the gallery behind the
shop to see paintings and sculptures featuring local artists.
Ærøskøbing connections
Ærø-Svendborg Ferry
The ferry ride between Svendborg, with connections to Copenhagen,
and Ærøskøbing, on the island of Ærø, is a relaxing
75-minute crossing. Just get on, and the crew will come to you for
your payment. While they accept Danish credit cards, American
ones don’t work—so be sure to bring enough cash (184 kr roundtrip
per person, 406 kr round-trip per car—not including driver/
passengers, you’ll save a little money with round-trip tickets, you
can leave the island via any of the three different Ærø ferry routes,
ferry not covered by or discounted with railpass).
The ferry always has room for walk-ons, but drivers should
reserve a spot in advance, especially on weekends and in summer.
During these busy times, reserve as far ahead as you can—ideally
at least a week in advance. Car reservations by phone or email are
free and easy—simply give your name and license-plate number.
If you don’t know your license number (i.e., you’re reserving from
home and haven’t yet picked up your rental car), try asking nicely
if they’re willing to just take your name. They may want you to
call them with the number when you pick up your car, but if that’s
not practical, you can usually just tell the attendant your name
before you drive onto the boat (office open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00,
Sat-Sun 9:00-15:30, tel. 62 52 40 00, www.aeroe-ferry.dk, info
@aeroe-ferry.dk).
Ferries depart Svendborg daily at 10:15, 13:15, 16:15, 19:15, and
22:30 (plus a 7:15 departure Mon-Fri). Ferries depart Ærøskøbing
Denmark: Ærø 149
daily at 8:45, 11:45, 14:45, 17:45, and 20:45 (plus a 5:45 departure
Mon-Fri). Drivers with reservations just drive on (be sure to get
into the med reservations line). If you won’t use your car in Ærø,
park it in Svendborg (big, safe lot two blocks in from ferry landing,
or at the far end of the harbor near the Bendix fish shop). On Ærø,
parking is free.
Trains Connecting with Ærø-Svendborg Ferry
The train from Odense dead-ends at the Svendborg harbor (2/hour
Mon-Sat, 1/hour Sun, 45 minutes; don’t get off at the “Svendborg
Vest” station—wait until you get to the end of the line, called simply
“Svendborg”). Train departures and arrivals are coordinated
with the ferry schedule.
Arriving in Svendborg: The ferry leaves Svendborg about five
minutes after your train arrives. If you know where you’re going,
it takes about that long to walk briskly from the station to the
dock. Don’t dawdle—the boat leaves stubbornly on time, even if
the train is a minute or two late. Since trains run every half-hour
during summer (except on Sundays), I recommend leaving Odense
on an earlier train, so you have a little more time to absorb delays
and find your way (in other words, take the train that arrives in
Svendborg 35 minutes before your boat). If you’re cutting it close,
be ready to hop off the train and follow these directions:
To get from the Svendborg train station to the dock, turn left
after exiting the train, following the sidewalk between the tracks
and the station, then take a left (across the tracks) at the first street,
Brogade. Head a block downhill to the harbor, make a right, and
the ferry dock is ahead, across from Hotel Ærø. If you arrive early,
you can head to the waiting room in the little blue building across
the street from the hotel. There are several carry-out restaurants
along Brogade, and a few hotels overlooking the ferry line have
restaurants.
Departing from Svendborg: All Svendborg trains go to
Odense (where you can connect to Copenhagen or Århus). Trains
leave shortly after the ferry arrives (tight connections for hurried
commuters). To reach the train from the Svendborg ferry dock,
pass Hotel Ærø and continue a block along the waiting lane for the
ferry, turn left and go up Brogade one block, then take a right and
follow the sidewalk between the tracks and the train station. A
train signed Odense should be waiting on the single track (departs
at :20 or :50 past each hour).
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Ærø