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THE VILLAGERS ATE A<br />
YELLOW BERRY THAT KEPT<br />
.HEM FROM GETTING SICK. NO<br />
OI{E HAD DIED IN 40 YEARS.<br />
THE LONG AND WINDING ROAD<br />
Snowcapped mountains are the<br />
backdrop on the meandering road out ofLeh.<br />
COCONUT OIL<br />
cojr BERRTES<br />
A good-for-you saturated fat. The benefits i The Chinese have been munching on gojis for centuries<br />
of a diet that incorporates coconut oil include<br />
improved heart health and metabolism, a<br />
i<br />
:<br />
to lengthen their lifespans. Besides an anti-aging<br />
effect, the potent immune-boosters are also thought<br />
better-supported immune system, and<br />
to regulate cholesterol, protect vision, and<br />
younger-looking skin. have a calming effect on the psyche.<br />
based on sea buckthorn-and process them into consumer products.<br />
Among these is <strong>Sibu</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong>, a company co-founded by a Mormon named<br />
Bruce McMullin rnzooS.<br />
McMullin had been on the executive board of the Salt Lake City charity<br />
Choice Humanitarian, and his philanthropic work often took him to India.<br />
In Calcutta one year he met an exuberant Indian herbalist, entrepreneur,<br />
and specialist in a5,'Lrrvedic medicines named Nico Khanna, who had spent<br />
25 years in the Himalayas exploring unusual herbal cures.<br />
Khanna told him of the so-called holy fi:uit he had encountered in several<br />
of the country's Himalayan states over a period of several decades. No<br />
one knew much about sastalulu scientifically, but Khanna had heard of villages<br />
where it was regularly consumed and where no one seemed to get sick.<br />
McMullin was intrigued. Khanna insisted that the best sea buckthorn berries<br />
came not from China where most of the world's crop is grown, but from<br />
the Indian side of the Himalayas. The idea for a collaboration was born. If<br />
Khanna could get the highest-quality berries and guarantee their shipment<br />
to America, McMullin would guarantee American investment and market<br />
profits. And the fretting middle-aged people of America would have their<br />
wrinkles smoothed away.<br />
Khanna went to Leh, the capital of India's Ladakh region, situated at<br />
an altitude of rr,ooo feet and with a population of about 27,5oo. Leh was<br />
once an important trade nexus between India Tibet, and China; hashish,<br />
cashmere, and indigo were its lifeblood. It sits near the headwaters of the<br />
Indus River. ftom which India takes its name, but its culture is almost entirely<br />
Tibetan. Leh's steep alleys are crowded with trekking companies and<br />
the markets and schools of exiled Tibetans, who do not forget that Leh<br />
was founded in the roth century by a warlike Tibetan prince, Nyima Gon.<br />
Today the Dalai Lama spends part of the year here, and his image is everywhere-dangling<br />
from dashboards, plastered to the walls of caf6s. Leh is<br />
also heavily militarized due to its proximity to the volatile Chinese border.<br />
A permit is needed to venture anywhere outside the town.<br />
Leh Palace, which looms over the town, was built in the rTth century<br />
and modeled after the Potala in Lhasa. Great grlded prayer wheels stand at<br />
the corner$ and strings of prayer flags loop across the streets. At night the<br />
lanes fill with dogs and shivering cows. At dawn you hear prayers being<br />
sung in the first-floor windows over cups of incense. At the Omasila Hotel,<br />
where I stayed, the staff came out at first light to pray to the flower beds.<br />
Ninety percent Buddhist, Leh is a place that seems to exist within a deliberate<br />
quietness framed by the giant glaciers on the horizon.<br />
Ten miles east of Leh lies the ancient citadel at Shey, around which<br />
white cltortens (better known as Buddhist stupas, those moundlike reliquary<br />
shrines you see in this part of the world) stand ruined in the desert.<br />
The Tibetan past is vividly present here, and in this austere, bright highland,<br />
sea buckthorn plants thrive effortlessly as they have for centuries,<br />
glittering like golden rose hips along the roads. It was the perfect place to<br />
meet Nico Khanna.<br />
Now 69 and a Delhi millionaire, Khanna looks 15 years younger ("Sea<br />
buckthorn every d^y, ^y dear fellow!") but he was hobbling that day because<br />
his leg was acting up. One of his giant dogs had bowled him over and<br />
broken his leg, and the steel plate in it seemed to have sffied. Jaunty and<br />
elegant nevertheless, Khanna walked me to the edge of a farm to look at<br />
great mats of mashed sea buckthorn berries drying in the sun and to show<br />
KOMBUCHA<br />
Beloved in health and fashion circles. the<br />
notoriously smelly fermented tea is believed to<br />
promote general well-being, stave off hunger,<br />
and even cure hangovers. Many devotees have<br />
taken to DlYng their own brews.<br />
JANUARY zotz | 97