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ETERA/AL YO(ITH - Sibu Beauty

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THE VILLAGERS ATE A<br />

YELLOW BERRY THAT KEPT<br />

.HEM FROM GETTING SICK. NO<br />

OI{E HAD DIED IN 40 YEARS.<br />

THE LONG AND WINDING ROAD<br />

Snowcapped mountains are the<br />

backdrop on the meandering road out ofLeh.<br />

COCONUT OIL<br />

cojr BERRTES<br />

A good-for-you saturated fat. The benefits i The Chinese have been munching on gojis for centuries<br />

of a diet that incorporates coconut oil include<br />

improved heart health and metabolism, a<br />

i<br />

:<br />

to lengthen their lifespans. Besides an anti-aging<br />

effect, the potent immune-boosters are also thought<br />

better-supported immune system, and<br />

to regulate cholesterol, protect vision, and<br />

younger-looking skin. have a calming effect on the psyche.<br />

based on sea buckthorn-and process them into consumer products.<br />

Among these is <strong>Sibu</strong> <strong>Beauty</strong>, a company co-founded by a Mormon named<br />

Bruce McMullin rnzooS.<br />

McMullin had been on the executive board of the Salt Lake City charity<br />

Choice Humanitarian, and his philanthropic work often took him to India.<br />

In Calcutta one year he met an exuberant Indian herbalist, entrepreneur,<br />

and specialist in a5,'Lrrvedic medicines named Nico Khanna, who had spent<br />

25 years in the Himalayas exploring unusual herbal cures.<br />

Khanna told him of the so-called holy fi:uit he had encountered in several<br />

of the country's Himalayan states over a period of several decades. No<br />

one knew much about sastalulu scientifically, but Khanna had heard of villages<br />

where it was regularly consumed and where no one seemed to get sick.<br />

McMullin was intrigued. Khanna insisted that the best sea buckthorn berries<br />

came not from China where most of the world's crop is grown, but from<br />

the Indian side of the Himalayas. The idea for a collaboration was born. If<br />

Khanna could get the highest-quality berries and guarantee their shipment<br />

to America, McMullin would guarantee American investment and market<br />

profits. And the fretting middle-aged people of America would have their<br />

wrinkles smoothed away.<br />

Khanna went to Leh, the capital of India's Ladakh region, situated at<br />

an altitude of rr,ooo feet and with a population of about 27,5oo. Leh was<br />

once an important trade nexus between India Tibet, and China; hashish,<br />

cashmere, and indigo were its lifeblood. It sits near the headwaters of the<br />

Indus River. ftom which India takes its name, but its culture is almost entirely<br />

Tibetan. Leh's steep alleys are crowded with trekking companies and<br />

the markets and schools of exiled Tibetans, who do not forget that Leh<br />

was founded in the roth century by a warlike Tibetan prince, Nyima Gon.<br />

Today the Dalai Lama spends part of the year here, and his image is everywhere-dangling<br />

from dashboards, plastered to the walls of caf6s. Leh is<br />

also heavily militarized due to its proximity to the volatile Chinese border.<br />

A permit is needed to venture anywhere outside the town.<br />

Leh Palace, which looms over the town, was built in the rTth century<br />

and modeled after the Potala in Lhasa. Great grlded prayer wheels stand at<br />

the corner$ and strings of prayer flags loop across the streets. At night the<br />

lanes fill with dogs and shivering cows. At dawn you hear prayers being<br />

sung in the first-floor windows over cups of incense. At the Omasila Hotel,<br />

where I stayed, the staff came out at first light to pray to the flower beds.<br />

Ninety percent Buddhist, Leh is a place that seems to exist within a deliberate<br />

quietness framed by the giant glaciers on the horizon.<br />

Ten miles east of Leh lies the ancient citadel at Shey, around which<br />

white cltortens (better known as Buddhist stupas, those moundlike reliquary<br />

shrines you see in this part of the world) stand ruined in the desert.<br />

The Tibetan past is vividly present here, and in this austere, bright highland,<br />

sea buckthorn plants thrive effortlessly as they have for centuries,<br />

glittering like golden rose hips along the roads. It was the perfect place to<br />

meet Nico Khanna.<br />

Now 69 and a Delhi millionaire, Khanna looks 15 years younger ("Sea<br />

buckthorn every d^y, ^y dear fellow!") but he was hobbling that day because<br />

his leg was acting up. One of his giant dogs had bowled him over and<br />

broken his leg, and the steel plate in it seemed to have sffied. Jaunty and<br />

elegant nevertheless, Khanna walked me to the edge of a farm to look at<br />

great mats of mashed sea buckthorn berries drying in the sun and to show<br />

KOMBUCHA<br />

Beloved in health and fashion circles. the<br />

notoriously smelly fermented tea is believed to<br />

promote general well-being, stave off hunger,<br />

and even cure hangovers. Many devotees have<br />

taken to DlYng their own brews.<br />

JANUARY zotz | 97

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