21.07.2013 Views

Bright shine that may be short lived - Financial Times

Bright shine that may be short lived - Financial Times

Bright shine that may be short lived - Financial Times

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

FINANCIALTIMES SATURDAYSEPTEMBER 11 2010 ★ 15<br />

Inventor<br />

turns his<br />

attention to<br />

time eating<br />

Extreme horology<br />

Maria Doulton talks<br />

to John C Taylor,<br />

who wants to make<br />

every second count<br />

You have to move fast to<br />

catch the septuagenarian<br />

John C Taylor,<br />

inventor, horologist and<br />

artist.<br />

This reporter had an hour’s<br />

notice to catch him <strong>be</strong>tween<br />

Waterloo Station and Fairoaks<br />

Airport, Woking, from where he<br />

was to take the controls of his<br />

TVM850 turbo prop aeroplane to<br />

fly home to the Isle of Man.<br />

Clapham Junction’s Costa coffee<br />

bar was the most efficient<br />

point of intersection.<br />

With Mr Taylor’s small briefcase<br />

and compact suitcase dangling<br />

a light blue “crew” tag<br />

safely stowed, his burgundy cravat<br />

neatly tucked into his blue<br />

shirt and a mozzarella melt<br />

<strong>be</strong>fore him, he recounted his<br />

journey from inventor to creator<br />

of monumental clocks.<br />

More art installation than<br />

clock, each highly complex<br />

mechanical creation features a<br />

four-foot rippled golden dial <strong>that</strong><br />

has no hands but pulsates with<br />

rings of blue light.<br />

Atop the tooth-edged dial<br />

walks relentlessly a menacing<br />

rottweiler-sized time eating<br />

insect or “chronophage”.<br />

The blinking, blood-mottled,<br />

bar<strong>be</strong>d-lim<strong>be</strong>d, time-gobbling,<br />

clanking automaton resembles a<br />

creature from Armageddon.<br />

The chronophage’s mouth<br />

opens slowly and snaps shut<br />

every 60 seconds to devour the<br />

minute just passed and every<br />

quarter hour the forked tail<br />

quivers and slowly sinks.<br />

You <strong>may</strong> not have seen one of<br />

Mr Taylor’s clocks, but a more<br />

discreet creation of his is likely<br />

to <strong>be</strong> sitting on your kitchen<br />

counter.<br />

As the inventor of a thermostat<br />

control found in 1bn kettles,<br />

he has <strong>be</strong>en quietly regulating<br />

tea-making in 75 per cent of<br />

households around the world.<br />

We also have him to thank for<br />

the cordless kettle and a cut-out<br />

device <strong>that</strong> stops plastic kettles<br />

from melting.<br />

His are achievements <strong>that</strong><br />

would most certainly entitle<br />

anyone to switch off, brew up a<br />

pot of tea and cruise into a comfortable<br />

retirement.<br />

“By the time I was in my 70s I<br />

felt time was racing away. I<br />

wanted to make a visual representation<br />

of this, but the art<br />

world is closed and you can’t <strong>be</strong><br />

famous until you are dead.<br />

“So I decided to create a work<br />

of art <strong>that</strong> is fun, accessible and<br />

actually does something,” he<br />

says.<br />

A pilot since the age of 16, Mr<br />

Taylor’s interest in watches<br />

came from the link <strong>be</strong>tween flying<br />

and navigation.<br />

His knowledge of the works of<br />

the great clockmakers led him<br />

to Harrison’s 19th century chronometers.<br />

Harrison called his<br />

escapement a grasshopper.<br />

“Harrison’s grasshopper is so<br />

<strong>be</strong>autiful <strong>that</strong> I wanted to turn<br />

the clock inside out and dress<br />

up the grasshopper so <strong>that</strong> everyone<br />

can see him at work.”<br />

The clock is completely<br />

mechanical, although the spring<br />

remontoir <strong>that</strong> stores the energy<br />

Digital age spells an end<br />

to American pen pushing<br />

Montblanc in US<br />

Timothy Bar<strong>be</strong>r on<br />

a new world<br />

marketing strategy<br />

In its 2010 annual report,<br />

Richemont, the Swiss luxury<br />

powerhouse, still categorised<br />

Montblanc, one of<br />

its highest profile subsidiaries,<br />

as a “writing instrument<br />

maison”. This was<br />

despite the fact <strong>that</strong> in 2008,<br />

for the first time in its 102year<br />

history, Montblanc had<br />

accounted for fewer than<br />

half of its sales.<br />

In the US, the company’s<br />

biggest market, watches are<br />

now <strong>be</strong>ing pushed as its<br />

core product.<br />

“Americans have a much<br />

closer relationship to the<br />

timepieces than they do to a<br />

writing culture,” says Jan-<br />

Patrick Schmitz, chief executive<br />

of Montblanc’s US<br />

operation, which sells more<br />

“convenience” pens – roller<br />

balls and ballpoints – than<br />

fine fountain pens.<br />

“They’re enjoyed more as<br />

a status accessory than<br />

they are for their perfection<br />

as a writing experience,” he<br />

says.<br />

Montblanc remains the<br />

market leader in luxury<br />

pens in the US, partly<br />

<strong>be</strong>cause competition has<br />

dwindled so sharply. With<br />

the encroachment of electronic<br />

communications on a<br />

writing culture far less<br />

developed than <strong>that</strong> of<br />

Europe or Asia, it is not a<br />

sector <strong>that</strong> generates excitement<br />

for the future.<br />

The company realised in<br />

the early 1990s <strong>that</strong> it would<br />

need to diversify into other<br />

products to mitigate the<br />

growing impact of the digital<br />

age on the market for<br />

fine pens.<br />

Leather products, desk<br />

accessories and fine jewellery<br />

have all <strong>be</strong>come part of<br />

its offering. But from the<br />

start, the company saw the<br />

watch business as a natural<br />

fit with the values of craftsmanship,<br />

precision and heritage<br />

it espoused in its pens.<br />

Try telling <strong>that</strong> to the<br />

watch world.<br />

Having launched its<br />

handmade watches in 1997,<br />

Montblanc struggled for a<br />

long time to gain credibility<br />

from either industry insiders<br />

or consumers.<br />

The company found itself<br />

a minnow in the horological<br />

market, where longevity<br />

and sustained quality are<br />

driving imperatives.<br />

In recent years, it has<br />

made an Olympian effort to<br />

redress this. With the<br />

launch of its first movement<br />

in 2008, the MB-001,<br />

Montblanc’s dedicated<br />

watchmaking facility in<br />

LeLocle, Switzerland,<br />

achieved full manufacture<br />

status – producing entire<br />

watches, movement and all,<br />

inhouse.<br />

In 2007 it acquired Fabrique<br />

d’Horlogerie Minerva,<br />

a venerable specialist in<br />

mechanical movements,<br />

and with it an entire watchmaking<br />

history and pedigree<br />

it could market. While<br />

LeLocle churns out more<br />

than 100,000 watches a year,<br />

Minerva produces Montblanc’s<br />

Collection Villeret<br />

1858, a range of just 250<br />

ultra-expensive connoisseur<br />

pieces.<br />

If Europe is still fully to<br />

embrace Montblanc Montre,<br />

the need for credibility<br />

through established reputation<br />

is less of an impediment<br />

in the US.<br />

“Having some good history<br />

is merely icing on the<br />

cake here,” says Ariel<br />

Adams, a US watch industry<br />

consultant. “Americans<br />

are much more concerned<br />

with style, quality and performance.<br />

Luckily Montblanc<br />

have some very good<br />

designs.”<br />

Mr Schmitz acknowledges<br />

‘We’re successful<br />

<strong>be</strong>cause of our<br />

writing instruments<br />

and the quality and<br />

history associated<br />

with them’<br />

this difference. Nevertheless,<br />

it is through the<br />

notion of historical cachet –<br />

based on both the hallowed<br />

reputation of its pen manufacturing,<br />

the assimilated<br />

heritage of the Minerva<br />

watch business and a canny<br />

play on the history of the<br />

chronograph – <strong>that</strong> Montblanc<br />

is launching a US<br />

marketing push.<br />

Montblanc’sRieussecwatchwithequestrianconnections<br />

Watch displays in its 34<br />

North American boutiques<br />

are <strong>be</strong>ing ramped up, with<br />

select stores installing<br />

zones dedicated to horological<br />

history and craftsmanship.<br />

An advertising campaign<br />

using the slogan<br />

“Timewriters” – a thematic<br />

linking of the company’s<br />

two primary strands –<br />

includes internet, iPad and<br />

iPhone tie-ins.<br />

The slogan also references<br />

a literal translation of<br />

the word “chronograph”.<br />

Montblanc named its flagship<br />

chronograph, the Nicolas<br />

Rieussec, after the 19th<br />

century inventor of the first<br />

such timepiece, a contraption<br />

<strong>that</strong> timed horse races<br />

by linking rotating second<br />

and minute discs with an<br />

ink-filled marker – thereby<br />

“writing” time.<br />

The Nicolas Rieussec<br />

watch incorporates those<br />

rotating discs in its design.<br />

It is an image he wants to<br />

“burn on to people’s minds,<br />

so <strong>that</strong> when they think of<br />

Montblanc they picture this<br />

watch. If they imagine just<br />

a pen, we’re not succeeding”.<br />

Rieussec’s equestrian connection<br />

informs the final<br />

plank of Montblanc’s strategy:<br />

sponsoring horse races,<br />

such as The Breeders’ Cup<br />

and the Belmont Stakes,<br />

two of the US’s most<br />

exalted racing events.<br />

It is a serious departure<br />

for a company <strong>that</strong> has<br />

always concentrated its<br />

support in the arts.<br />

“It’s sport, but it’s not<br />

Americans sitting eating<br />

hot dogs,” Mr Schmitz says.<br />

“The people who enjoy it<br />

are very much in the demographic<br />

we speak to.”<br />

For all the reference to<br />

the seriously high-end – the<br />

Rieussec watches sell for<br />

about $20,000 – it is its midrange<br />

luxury watches, in<br />

the $3,000-$5,000 range, <strong>that</strong><br />

are the engine room of<br />

Montblanc’s US watch business.<br />

The emphasis on<br />

craftsmanship and heritage,<br />

however, remains a constant.<br />

“We’re not stepping away<br />

from our roots. We <strong>be</strong>lieve<br />

we’re successful <strong>be</strong>cause of<br />

our writing instruments<br />

and the quality and history<br />

associated with them.”<br />

Watches&Jewellery<br />

Meanmachine:the‘chronophage’<br />

ondisplayoutsideCorpusChristi<br />

College,Cambridge Chris Radburn<br />

to drive the mechanism is<br />

wound from the mains as are<br />

the LED lights.<br />

Mr Taylor efficiently channels<br />

the energy from the rocking of<br />

the insect’s feet to power the<br />

mechanism <strong>that</strong> opens and<br />

closes its eyes.<br />

Playing with our notions of<br />

time, the clock randomly slows<br />

down, speeds up and then stops<br />

completely.<br />

To compensate for these<br />

antics, the entire mechanism is<br />

regulated every fifth minute by<br />

the Rugby Time Signal to <strong>be</strong><br />

precise to 100th of a second.<br />

Mr Taylor searched the internet<br />

to find a Dutch company<br />

<strong>that</strong> specialises in underwater<br />

explosive formation.<br />

The “waves of time” on the<br />

dial were formed using rings of<br />

cordite detonated underwater<br />

<strong>that</strong> make the ripple shapes in<br />

the metal.<br />

As for the intimidating look of<br />

‘I wanted a visual<br />

representation of time<br />

racing away but the<br />

art world is closed and<br />

you can’t <strong>be</strong> famous<br />

until you’re dead’<br />

the insects – and so far there are<br />

two equally vicious mutant variants<br />

– Mr Taylor says: “I wanted<br />

to make him look scary <strong>be</strong>cause<br />

if you think about time, it really<br />

is quite frightening.”<br />

The first “chronophage” has<br />

<strong>be</strong>en on display outside Corpus<br />

Christi College, Cambridge,<br />

since 2008. The second version,<br />

valued at £2m, was unveiled at<br />

the Masterpiece fair of fine and<br />

decorative arts in London this<br />

year. It is yet to find an owner.<br />

Who does Mr Taylor think<br />

might <strong>be</strong> interested in his time<br />

eaters?<br />

“Organisations where there<br />

are people at a slightly loose<br />

end, such as airports, museums<br />

or hotels, and of course art collectors.<br />

If I can sell 1bn kettle<br />

controls, I can sell 15 clocks,” he<br />

says.<br />

The time is 1pm on his Breitling<br />

aviator’s watch and he<br />

briskly heads off to his private<br />

jet at a pace in keeping with his<br />

philosophy: “You have to make<br />

use of each minute, <strong>be</strong>cause<br />

once the chronophage eats it,<br />

it’s gone!”

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!