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FINANCIALTIMESMONDAYNOVEMBER 10 2008 9<br />

Global Traveller<br />

Safe and friendly place <strong>to</strong> sing your heart out<br />

EXECUTIVEGUIDE<br />

TOKYO<br />

Jonathan Soble is<br />

<strong>to</strong>ld where <strong>to</strong> go<br />

by an old hand<br />

In the battle of the Beatles<br />

tribute pubs, John Vail is an<br />

Abbey Road man.<br />

“I used <strong>to</strong> go <strong>to</strong> the Cavern<br />

Club years ago, but I heard<br />

<strong>their</strong> old band moved <strong>to</strong><br />

Abbey Road (4-11-5 Roppongi,<br />

Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku, 03-3402-0017) so I<br />

started going there. It’s a<br />

very friendly place.”<br />

Tokyo – where Mr Vail,<br />

chief global strategist at<br />

Nikko Asset Management,<br />

has spent eight years – is a<br />

place of wan<strong>to</strong>n cultural mixing<br />

and near-infinite choice.<br />

Other cities may have<br />

Beatles tribute bands, but<br />

only the Japanese capital has<br />

a mini-industry of bars dedicated<br />

<strong>to</strong> the form.<br />

“I like it when both western<br />

and Japanese cultures<br />

<strong>are</strong> represented. I’m not the<br />

kind of guy who insists on<br />

‘The subway is<br />

easy <strong>to</strong> use,<br />

except maybe in<br />

rush hour. It’s best<br />

<strong>to</strong> wake up early’<br />

JohnVail<br />

ChiefGlobalStrategist<br />

NikkoAssetManagement<br />

sushi served the traditional<br />

way. I like fusion.”<br />

Mr Vail was born in Ohio<br />

and raised on Chicago’s<br />

North Shore.<br />

He watched Japan’s s<strong>to</strong>ck<br />

bubble inflate and burst during<br />

his first stint in the country<br />

from 1988-1992, as a fund<br />

manager with Fidelity.<br />

After returning in 2004 he<br />

joined Nikko – a big mutualfund<br />

manager that is now<br />

part of Citigroup – in 2006.<br />

“Tokyo is a lot more pricefriendly<br />

now,” he says.<br />

“It’s still really safe and<br />

the service is always impeccable.<br />

You never have <strong>to</strong><br />

worry about being cheated. I<br />

never look at the coins the<br />

taxi driver gives me.”<br />

Hotels<br />

By Mr Vail’s reckoning, the<br />

Conrad (1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi,<br />

Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku,<br />

03-6388-8000), in Shiodome,<br />

southwest of Tokyo Station,<br />

offers Tokyo’s biggest, bestdecorated<br />

rooms.<br />

For high-style lobby tea<br />

service he recommends the<br />

Ritz Carl<strong>to</strong>n (9-7-1 Akasaka,<br />

Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku, 03-3423-8000) in<br />

Roppongi’s sprawling Mid<strong>to</strong>wn<br />

development, while the<br />

venerable Imperial (1-1-1 Uchisaiwai-cho,<br />

Chiyoda-ku,<br />

03-3504-1111) in Hibiya boasts<br />

Tokyo’s “best old-fashioned<br />

bars”.<br />

Restaurants<br />

“I’ve never had a bad meal in<br />

Japan. It’s universally very<br />

high quality, and there is a<br />

huge amount of variety.”<br />

Nobu (4-1-28 Toranomon,<br />

Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku, 03-5733-0070)<br />

offers its globetrotting brand<br />

of Japanese fusion at “surprisingly<br />

reasonable prices”<br />

in Toranomon, next <strong>to</strong> the<br />

Okura Hotel, while the New<br />

York import Union Squ<strong>are</strong><br />

(9-7-4 Akasaka, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku,<br />

03-5413-7780) grills Tokyo’s<br />

best western-style steaks.<br />

Sushi connoisseurs <strong>are</strong><br />

known <strong>to</strong> line up at Tsukiji<br />

fish market at dawn, but<br />

even the lazy have little trouble<br />

finding tasty maguro,<br />

ikura and hamachi. “For<br />

sushi, there <strong>are</strong> so many<br />

places and it can be very<br />

inexpensive – or outrageously<br />

expensive, if that’s<br />

what you want.”<br />

Networking<br />

Few places attract moneyed<br />

dealmakers like the Oak<br />

Door (6-10-3 Roppongi,<br />

Mina<strong>to</strong>-Ku, 03-4333-1234), a<br />

bar and restaurant on the<br />

sixth floor of the Grand<br />

Hyatt hotel in Roppongi<br />

Hills. “It’s definitely a place<br />

<strong>to</strong> meet people,” Mr Vail<br />

says. At ground level in the<br />

same complex is Heartland<br />

(6-10-1 Roppongi, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku.<br />

Tel: 5772-7600), where the<br />

crowd of 30-something expats<br />

spills out on <strong>to</strong> the street,<br />

drinks in hand.<br />

Where <strong>to</strong> sing karaoke<br />

“I’ve had some of my best<br />

nights out at Fiesta (7-9-3<br />

Roppongi, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku,<br />

03-5410-3008), a small karaoke<br />

bar across from Roppongi<br />

Mid<strong>to</strong>wn where you sing on<br />

stage in front of everyone.<br />

It’s amazing – you get professional-level<br />

singers and warbling<br />

old men, but it’s always<br />

fun.” For those who prefer <strong>to</strong><br />

keep <strong>their</strong> ululations among<br />

friends, the similarly named<br />

Festa (3-5-7 Azabudai,<br />

Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku, 03-5570-1500), also<br />

in Roppongi, offers thousands<br />

of English songs in private<br />

rooms for up <strong>to</strong> 30 people.<br />

On an afternoon off<br />

“Meiji Shrine is so serene.<br />

You feel like you’re a million<br />

miles away,” Mr Vail says of<br />

the wooded Shin<strong>to</strong> sanctuary<br />

just west of the city centre.<br />

He also recommends peoplewatching<br />

in neighbouring<br />

Yoyogi Park or along Takeshita<br />

Street in Harajuku. “It’s<br />

jammed on the weekends<br />

with young people wearing<br />

all sorts of odd outfits.” For<br />

indoor culture there is Roppongi<br />

Hills’ Mori Museum<br />

(6-10-1 Roppongi, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku,<br />

03-5777-8600) and the nearby<br />

National Art Center (7-22-2<br />

Roppongi, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku), with<br />

its Kisho Kurokawa-designed<br />

curving glass facade. “Even<br />

if the exhibit isn’t special,<br />

just being in the building is<br />

treat enough.”<br />

<strong>What</strong> <strong>to</strong> miss<br />

“I’ve never been up Mount<br />

Fuji but I’ve had a lot of people<br />

say they’ll never do it<br />

again. It’s single file all the<br />

way up this rocky path, and<br />

you’re just looking down at<br />

the footsteps of the people in<br />

front of you all the way.”<br />

Getting around <strong>to</strong>wn<br />

“I don’t own a car – you<br />

don’t need <strong>to</strong> in Tokyo. The<br />

subway is clean and efficient<br />

and it’s easy <strong>to</strong> use, except<br />

maybe in rush hour. It’s best<br />

<strong>to</strong> wake up early.”<br />

Ideal excursions<br />

“Take a one-hour express<br />

train <strong>to</strong> Mount Takao, with<br />

shrines and many nice paved<br />

and rough hiking trails.” In<br />

winter, the ski slopes at<br />

Karuizawa and Echigo-Yuzawa<br />

<strong>are</strong> less than two hours<br />

away by bullet train. Overnighters<br />

can stay at the<br />

Karuizawa Prince Hotel<br />

(Karuizawa-machi, Nagano,<br />

0267-42-1111) or the Otani (330<br />

Oaza, Yuzawa, Niigata,<br />

025-784-2191), though there<br />

<strong>are</strong> “many wonderful oldstyle<br />

pension hotels everywhere”.

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