What businesses are doing to cut their travel costs - Financial Times ...
What businesses are doing to cut their travel costs - Financial Times ...
What businesses are doing to cut their travel costs - Financial Times ...
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
FINANCIALTIMESMONDAYNOVEMBER 10 2008 9<br />
Global Traveller<br />
Safe and friendly place <strong>to</strong> sing your heart out<br />
EXECUTIVEGUIDE<br />
TOKYO<br />
Jonathan Soble is<br />
<strong>to</strong>ld where <strong>to</strong> go<br />
by an old hand<br />
In the battle of the Beatles<br />
tribute pubs, John Vail is an<br />
Abbey Road man.<br />
“I used <strong>to</strong> go <strong>to</strong> the Cavern<br />
Club years ago, but I heard<br />
<strong>their</strong> old band moved <strong>to</strong><br />
Abbey Road (4-11-5 Roppongi,<br />
Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku, 03-3402-0017) so I<br />
started going there. It’s a<br />
very friendly place.”<br />
Tokyo – where Mr Vail,<br />
chief global strategist at<br />
Nikko Asset Management,<br />
has spent eight years – is a<br />
place of wan<strong>to</strong>n cultural mixing<br />
and near-infinite choice.<br />
Other cities may have<br />
Beatles tribute bands, but<br />
only the Japanese capital has<br />
a mini-industry of bars dedicated<br />
<strong>to</strong> the form.<br />
“I like it when both western<br />
and Japanese cultures<br />
<strong>are</strong> represented. I’m not the<br />
kind of guy who insists on<br />
‘The subway is<br />
easy <strong>to</strong> use,<br />
except maybe in<br />
rush hour. It’s best<br />
<strong>to</strong> wake up early’<br />
JohnVail<br />
ChiefGlobalStrategist<br />
NikkoAssetManagement<br />
sushi served the traditional<br />
way. I like fusion.”<br />
Mr Vail was born in Ohio<br />
and raised on Chicago’s<br />
North Shore.<br />
He watched Japan’s s<strong>to</strong>ck<br />
bubble inflate and burst during<br />
his first stint in the country<br />
from 1988-1992, as a fund<br />
manager with Fidelity.<br />
After returning in 2004 he<br />
joined Nikko – a big mutualfund<br />
manager that is now<br />
part of Citigroup – in 2006.<br />
“Tokyo is a lot more pricefriendly<br />
now,” he says.<br />
“It’s still really safe and<br />
the service is always impeccable.<br />
You never have <strong>to</strong><br />
worry about being cheated. I<br />
never look at the coins the<br />
taxi driver gives me.”<br />
Hotels<br />
By Mr Vail’s reckoning, the<br />
Conrad (1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi,<br />
Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku,<br />
03-6388-8000), in Shiodome,<br />
southwest of Tokyo Station,<br />
offers Tokyo’s biggest, bestdecorated<br />
rooms.<br />
For high-style lobby tea<br />
service he recommends the<br />
Ritz Carl<strong>to</strong>n (9-7-1 Akasaka,<br />
Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku, 03-3423-8000) in<br />
Roppongi’s sprawling Mid<strong>to</strong>wn<br />
development, while the<br />
venerable Imperial (1-1-1 Uchisaiwai-cho,<br />
Chiyoda-ku,<br />
03-3504-1111) in Hibiya boasts<br />
Tokyo’s “best old-fashioned<br />
bars”.<br />
Restaurants<br />
“I’ve never had a bad meal in<br />
Japan. It’s universally very<br />
high quality, and there is a<br />
huge amount of variety.”<br />
Nobu (4-1-28 Toranomon,<br />
Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku, 03-5733-0070)<br />
offers its globetrotting brand<br />
of Japanese fusion at “surprisingly<br />
reasonable prices”<br />
in Toranomon, next <strong>to</strong> the<br />
Okura Hotel, while the New<br />
York import Union Squ<strong>are</strong><br />
(9-7-4 Akasaka, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku,<br />
03-5413-7780) grills Tokyo’s<br />
best western-style steaks.<br />
Sushi connoisseurs <strong>are</strong><br />
known <strong>to</strong> line up at Tsukiji<br />
fish market at dawn, but<br />
even the lazy have little trouble<br />
finding tasty maguro,<br />
ikura and hamachi. “For<br />
sushi, there <strong>are</strong> so many<br />
places and it can be very<br />
inexpensive – or outrageously<br />
expensive, if that’s<br />
what you want.”<br />
Networking<br />
Few places attract moneyed<br />
dealmakers like the Oak<br />
Door (6-10-3 Roppongi,<br />
Mina<strong>to</strong>-Ku, 03-4333-1234), a<br />
bar and restaurant on the<br />
sixth floor of the Grand<br />
Hyatt hotel in Roppongi<br />
Hills. “It’s definitely a place<br />
<strong>to</strong> meet people,” Mr Vail<br />
says. At ground level in the<br />
same complex is Heartland<br />
(6-10-1 Roppongi, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku.<br />
Tel: 5772-7600), where the<br />
crowd of 30-something expats<br />
spills out on <strong>to</strong> the street,<br />
drinks in hand.<br />
Where <strong>to</strong> sing karaoke<br />
“I’ve had some of my best<br />
nights out at Fiesta (7-9-3<br />
Roppongi, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku,<br />
03-5410-3008), a small karaoke<br />
bar across from Roppongi<br />
Mid<strong>to</strong>wn where you sing on<br />
stage in front of everyone.<br />
It’s amazing – you get professional-level<br />
singers and warbling<br />
old men, but it’s always<br />
fun.” For those who prefer <strong>to</strong><br />
keep <strong>their</strong> ululations among<br />
friends, the similarly named<br />
Festa (3-5-7 Azabudai,<br />
Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku, 03-5570-1500), also<br />
in Roppongi, offers thousands<br />
of English songs in private<br />
rooms for up <strong>to</strong> 30 people.<br />
On an afternoon off<br />
“Meiji Shrine is so serene.<br />
You feel like you’re a million<br />
miles away,” Mr Vail says of<br />
the wooded Shin<strong>to</strong> sanctuary<br />
just west of the city centre.<br />
He also recommends peoplewatching<br />
in neighbouring<br />
Yoyogi Park or along Takeshita<br />
Street in Harajuku. “It’s<br />
jammed on the weekends<br />
with young people wearing<br />
all sorts of odd outfits.” For<br />
indoor culture there is Roppongi<br />
Hills’ Mori Museum<br />
(6-10-1 Roppongi, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku,<br />
03-5777-8600) and the nearby<br />
National Art Center (7-22-2<br />
Roppongi, Mina<strong>to</strong>-ku), with<br />
its Kisho Kurokawa-designed<br />
curving glass facade. “Even<br />
if the exhibit isn’t special,<br />
just being in the building is<br />
treat enough.”<br />
<strong>What</strong> <strong>to</strong> miss<br />
“I’ve never been up Mount<br />
Fuji but I’ve had a lot of people<br />
say they’ll never do it<br />
again. It’s single file all the<br />
way up this rocky path, and<br />
you’re just looking down at<br />
the footsteps of the people in<br />
front of you all the way.”<br />
Getting around <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
“I don’t own a car – you<br />
don’t need <strong>to</strong> in Tokyo. The<br />
subway is clean and efficient<br />
and it’s easy <strong>to</strong> use, except<br />
maybe in rush hour. It’s best<br />
<strong>to</strong> wake up early.”<br />
Ideal excursions<br />
“Take a one-hour express<br />
train <strong>to</strong> Mount Takao, with<br />
shrines and many nice paved<br />
and rough hiking trails.” In<br />
winter, the ski slopes at<br />
Karuizawa and Echigo-Yuzawa<br />
<strong>are</strong> less than two hours<br />
away by bullet train. Overnighters<br />
can stay at the<br />
Karuizawa Prince Hotel<br />
(Karuizawa-machi, Nagano,<br />
0267-42-1111) or the Otani (330<br />
Oaza, Yuzawa, Niigata,<br />
025-784-2191), though there<br />
<strong>are</strong> “many wonderful oldstyle<br />
pension hotels everywhere”.