34 <strong>December</strong>, <strong>1981</strong> » ,. ; . • * * Frank Lloyd Wright designed this church in <strong>the</strong> red rocks <strong>of</strong> Sedona, Arizona. - - -
FEAST FOR THE SOUL Continued from page 24 Left: Los Danzantes and <strong>the</strong> small Malinches dance. Right: One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pueblo Indians. Tonight, when darkness finally comes to <strong>the</strong> sky, <strong>the</strong> faithful ga<strong>the</strong>r around <strong>the</strong> Capilla, a small chapel, where <strong>the</strong> image <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>of</strong> Guadalupe silently waits. In <strong>the</strong> flicker <strong>of</strong> candlelight we watch as she is escorted to <strong>the</strong> village meeting house by men. They wear glittering crowns draped with colorful ribbons, sashes and scarves that bear <strong>the</strong> likeness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Virgin. Known as Los Danzantes, <strong>the</strong>y will perform <strong>the</strong> ritual dances during an all night wake, el velorio, to It is not a solemn occasion —<strong>the</strong> faces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pilgrims reflect joy and anticipation. simple repetitious melodies played on <strong>the</strong> violin. Leading <strong>the</strong> costumed men are <strong>the</strong> malinches—small, dark-haired girls wearing white dresses and veils to symbolize innocence. The dancing is interrupted with prayer as villagers kneel before <strong>the</strong> beloved image. Although it is quite cold and <strong>the</strong> Casa del Pueblo is unheated, <strong>the</strong> crowded spectators remain throughout <strong>the</strong> night. This celebration is a mixture <strong>of</strong> Indian and Hispanic influences, and had its origin exactly 450 years ago, when a peasant witnessed a miracle on <strong>the</strong> outskirts <strong>of</strong> Mexico City. According to <strong>the</strong> legend, an Indian convert named Juan Diego was crossing barren Mount Tepeyac in <strong>December</strong> <strong>of</strong> 1531, when <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>of</strong> Guadalupe appeared to him. She told him to instruct <strong>the</strong> Bishop-Elect <strong>of</strong> Mexico to build a chapel for her on that spot. Jaun Diego relayed <strong>the</strong> message to Bishop Fray Juan de Zumarrago who demanded pro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> holy vision. The Indian returned to <strong>the</strong> mountain. La Virgen Morena (<strong>the</strong> dark Virgin) reappeared and told him to take some roses which <strong>the</strong>n covered <strong>the</strong> hillside back to <strong>the</strong> Bishop. Juan Diego dutifully obeyed, filling his tilma, an apron-like garment, with <strong>the</strong> scarlet blooms. Skeptical, Bishop Zumarraga was forced to believe <strong>the</strong> story when Diego unfolded <strong>the</strong> tilma. As <strong>the</strong> roses dropped to <strong>the</strong> floor, a perfectly imprinted image <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Virgin was visible on <strong>the</strong> cloth. The chapel was built, and <strong>the</strong> still-brilliant portrait can be seen today in Mexico City. Because Mount Tepeyac was formerly <strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> a sanctuary to Tonantzin, <strong>the</strong> Aztec goddess <strong>of</strong> fertility, Indians throughout <strong>the</strong> New World took this miraculous event as a sign to accept Christianity. The present-day followers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Virgin in Tortugas are as devoted to <strong>the</strong> patron saint <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir pueblo as <strong>the</strong>ir forefa<strong>the</strong>rs were. At 5 a.m., long before <strong>the</strong> winter dawn, on <strong>the</strong> morning <strong>of</strong> <strong>December</strong> 11th, <strong>the</strong>y begin <strong>the</strong> day with a special serenade called <strong>the</strong> Mananitas a la Virgen. Then, <strong>the</strong>y register for <strong>the</strong> long pilgrimage to <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> Tortugas Mountain, directly East <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> village. As <strong>the</strong> sky lightens, we shiver in <strong>the</strong> clear and bitter air. Hundreds <strong>of</strong> people join us for <strong>the</strong> demaning ascent; some will walk <strong>the</strong> 14 miles barefooted to fulfill vows given in prayer to <strong>the</strong> Virgin <strong>of</strong> Guadalupe. It is not a It is a time for celebration, renewal and promises kept. solemn occasion—<strong>the</strong> faces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pilgrims reflect joy and anticipation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> trek. Children, who do not notice <strong>the</strong> cold, play tag with friends while parents visit, holding blankets, sack lunches, and Thermos bottles full <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee. When <strong>the</strong> leaders bring Her small portrait to <strong>the</strong> front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> procession, we begin. We pass under <strong>the</strong> busy Interstate 25 overpass and by <strong>the</strong> experimental solar house <strong>of</strong> New Mexico State University. To me, <strong>the</strong> contrasts between an age-old pilgrimage and modern life in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Southwest</strong> are striking. The noise <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> highway dims as <strong>Desert</strong> 35