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BYWAYS PLUS: DATES! - Desert Magazine of the Southwest

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RAILROAD IN THE SKY<br />

Recently a travel editor wrote: "The Ghost town <strong>of</strong> Bodie<br />

had no 'wrong side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tracks' because <strong>the</strong>r were no railroad<br />

tracks. Bodie didn't have a railroad.'' Nothing could be<br />

fur<strong>the</strong>r from <strong>the</strong> truth. Had <strong>the</strong> writer nosed around a bit<br />

more she would have found that not only did Bodie boast a<br />

railroad but an extremely colorful one at that.<br />

I was introduced to this slice <strong>of</strong> California history on a recent<br />

visit to <strong>the</strong> old town on <strong>the</strong> Nevada border, named after<br />

Waterman S. Body but<br />

spelled differently to<br />

assure <strong>the</strong> correct pronunciation.<br />

Body<strong>the</strong><br />

man found <strong>the</strong> ore deposit<br />

<strong>the</strong>re in 1859 but<br />

lost his life in a snowstorm<br />

less than a year<br />

later.<br />

Hiking up old Green<br />

Street, I was stopped by<br />

a "No Trespassing"<br />

sign. Beyond it,<br />

just over <strong>the</strong> hill,<br />

I could see what<br />

appeared to be a railroad<br />

depot and, as it turned<br />

out, <strong>the</strong> property<br />

was owned by <strong>the</strong><br />

pioneer Cain family<br />

whose patriarch, Stuart<br />

Wells Cain, still lived in<br />

nearby Bridgeport. Yes<br />

<strong>the</strong>re was a depot and<br />

railroad in Bodie, he<br />

confirmed. He had been<br />

born <strong>the</strong>re on September<br />

20,1891 and remembered<br />

<strong>the</strong> town well. His<br />

fa<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong> famed J.S.<br />

Cain, had co-owned lumber<br />

barges on Mono<br />

Lake. Timber was taken<br />

from a forested site<br />

called Mono Mills as far<br />

back as 1878, hauled to<br />

<strong>the</strong> barges for <strong>the</strong> trip<br />

across <strong>the</strong> lake, and <strong>the</strong>n<br />

packed by mule into<br />

The <strong>Desert</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>/March 1980<br />

Story and Photos by Buddy Noonan<br />

Bodie where it was sold for lumber, mine timbering, and fuel.<br />

Demand proved too heavy for <strong>the</strong> available mules to supply<br />

so a rail line was proposed. Thus, <strong>the</strong> Bodie Railway and<br />

Lumber Company came to be incorporated in February, 1881.<br />

Unbelievably, <strong>the</strong> tracks were laid between Bodie and Mono<br />

Mills before that summer was over—32 miles <strong>of</strong> loops and<br />

zigzags dropping down <strong>the</strong> Bodie Mountains and skirting <strong>the</strong><br />

eastern edge <strong>of</strong> Mono Lake.<br />

The day <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new<br />

road's maiden run was a<br />

wild and big one. The<br />

townspeople, charged<br />

with excitement and<br />

purpose, walked up to<br />

Reservoir Hill where <strong>the</strong><br />

four engines—Bodie,<br />

Inyo, Tybo and<br />

Mono—waited. There<br />

were speeches and more<br />

speeches. The boilers<br />

were stoked to <strong>the</strong><br />

ceremonial blare <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Bodie Brass Band. And<br />

<strong>the</strong>n, after christening,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y stormed away full<br />

tilt, bells clanging,<br />

leaving a shouting,<br />

cheering crowd behind.<br />

Every whistle in town<br />

sounded.<br />

In 1882 <strong>the</strong> road<br />

changed its name to <strong>the</strong><br />

Bodie and Benton<br />

Railway and Commercial<br />

Company but old-timers<br />

had already chosen<br />

"Railroad in <strong>the</strong> Sky"<br />

and that was <strong>the</strong> name<br />

that stuck. The four<br />

brassy little Baldwins<br />

made <strong>the</strong> run from Mono<br />

Mills to Bodie and back<br />

on daily schedules,<br />

never sensing that time<br />

was running out for<br />

The Standard Mine and Mill relied heavily on <strong>the</strong> narrow gauge B&B for fuel and<br />

timbering.<br />

Bodie and for <strong>the</strong>m, too.<br />

On September 6,1917,<br />

53

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