Ghent - In Your Pocket

38 what to see
There is much to see in Ghent, from the old industrial parts
of the city which have become hip, trendy arts venues to
the fine Gothic architecture of the city centre.
There are fine parks and gardens too, and some seriously
good museums. We have a guide to the best of it all.
Essential Ghent
Ghent Illuminated Tel. (+32) 926
67 760, fax (+32) 926 67 799,
www.gent.be/gentverlicht. Due to
a comprehensive light plan, Ghent can
be wonderfully re-explored after sunset.
All of the city’s main monuments
are attractively illuminated at night,
which brings a different perspective to
the medieval sights. Details of buildings
which are concealed during the
day become accentuated at night. The Graslei is superbly
lit and the illuminated Belfry shouldn’t be missed either. The
city has developed a two hour walking tour past Ghent’s
illuminated highlights, and you can pick up a brochure with
the walking route at the tourist office, or you can download it
from the website. TJ6
Graslei B-2, Graslei. It’s very
simple. You haven’t really been
to Ghent if you haven’t seen
the Graslei. Together with the
Leie River and the Korenlei on
the opposite side of the water,
this is Ghent’s prime highlight
and the bustling heart of the
city. From the 11th century until
the late Middle Ages, the quays of Graslei and Korenlei served
as the city’s main port as well as a major trade centre for
grain. The buildings at number 9 and 12 are former guildhalls
of grain traders and the building at number 10 used to be
a wheat storehouse. The latter building is also the oldest
step gable house in the world, and dates from the 12th
century. On sunny days, the quays of Graslei and Korenlei
are usually packed with people, simply because locals love
to hang out at this picturesque spot. The best views of the
Graslei are from St Michael’s bridge or from Korenlei across
the Leie River. J
Great Beguinage Groot Begijnhof
67, tel. (+32) 922 82
308, info@grootbegijnhof.be,
www.grootbegijnhof.be. This
remarkably large beguinage is
an oasis of serenity within the
bustling city. The walled village
was constructed in 1873 as
a replacement for the older St
Elisabeth’s beguinage, which by
that time had almost completely lost its closed character due
to the city’s expansion. Over 700 devout women moved to the
new location at Sint-Amandsberg to continue their religious
life in quietness. Throughout the 20th century, the number of
beguines continuously decreased until the last beguine died
in 2003. Despite the fact that the Great Beguinage has now
lost its original function, the gates are still closed from 23:00
until 06:00 and it truly remains a haven of tranquillity. At the
centre of the largely neo-gothic beguinage stands a tall church,
which is surrounded by eight hectares of greenery and houses,
making it a beautiful place to spend a quiet afternoon. Together
with several other beguinages around Flanders, the Great
Beguinage of Ghent is listed as UNESCO world-heritage sight
for its historical value. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. 6B
The Belfry B-2, Sint-Baafsplein,
tel. (+32) 937 53 161, www.belfortgent.be.
The Belfry is the middle
of Ghent’s famous row of three-towers
and the proudest symbol of the city’s
independence. The dragon on top of
the tower is the symbolic guardian of
the city privileges, which were kept in a
trunk in the ‚secrecy room’ until 1539.
You can’t make it to the dragon, but you
can climb a long way up and enjoy an
amazing view over the city. Every Friday and Sunday, Ghent’s
carillons perform concerts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission:
adults €5. JL
Town Hall B-2, Botermarkt
1. Both the interior
and exterior of Ghent’s
City Hall faces many different
styles of architecture,
from Gothic to Renaissance,
from flamboyant
to sober. The City Hall is
probably the most popular
spot in Ghent for weddings,
and since 2011, it’s even possible to get married in the
Ghent dialect here. Q Opening times vary, closed on Fridays
and weekends. J
Boat tours
Rederij De Gentenaer B-2, Groentenmarkt, tel. (+32)
926 90 869, fax (+32) 923 15 484, info@rederijdegentenaer.be,
www.rederijdegentenaer.be. Standard guided
tours at De Gentenaer will take you for 50 minutes along the
Leie River, allowing you to view the city’s highlights from a
different perspective. Boats are decent and large enough for
at least 20 people. Beware though that the boats are roofless,
so if dark clouds are appearing in the sky, it might be
wise to postpone the river journey for a while. Guides are well
equipped with all sorts of fun facts and trivia, which they will
narrate in Dutch, English and French. The point of departure
is near Groentenmarkt, next to the entrance of ‘Waterhuis
aan de Bierkant’. Departure times depend upon the weather,
with intervals between leaving boats varying from 10 to 30
minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Adults €6.50, students and
60+ €6, children under 12 €3.50. TJ
Buildings
Achtersikkel C-2, Biezekapelstraat. Walk through the
narrow S-shaped street just north of St Bavo’s Church and
you will find a delightfully quiet courtyard surrounded by
14th and 15th century buildings. Achtersikkel is named
after the aristocratic Vander Sickelen family, which resided
here for several centuries. The tall round tower has a renaissance
style gazebo dating from 1566, which unfortunately
is inaccessible to the public. Since the early 20th century,
Achtersikkel has housed Ghent’s conservatoire, so you
might be able to enjoy some classical music while admiring
the medieval architecture. J
Castle of the Counts B-2, Sint-Veerleplein 11, tel.
(+32) 922 59 306, fax (+32) 923 35 037, www.gent.be.
The Gravensteen Castle, originally a fortress built by Count
Boudewijn I in about 868, was rebuilt as a castle at the behest
of Philip of Alsace, Count of Flanders. The structure, situated
in the heart of Ghent, was once a residence of the Count and
was later used as a cotton mill but is now a tourist attraction in
itself, as the only remaining medieval castle in Flanders. This
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