Updated October 2012 - Andrew Harper

ANDREW HARPER’S 

scandinavia 

&baltic states 

2012

update : 2012 

NEW SWEDISH 

CUISINE 

While Mathias Dahlgren 

remains Stockholm’s 

culinary star, a younger 

generation of chefs is 

now emerging. The best 

place to experience 

their work is at recently 

opened Gastrologik, 

in the city’s Ostermalm 

district. This is the 

creation of Anton Bjuhr, 

a baker, and Jacob 

Holmström, formerly 

executive chef at the 

two Michelin-starred 

Dahlgren restaurants 

in Stockholm. The daily 

tasting menu is a suite 

of surprises. What is 

consistent, however, is 

At Home 

in Central 

Stockholm 

OCCUPYING A FINE 1910 ART 

nouveau brick mansion in 

Stockholm’s tranquil Lärkstaden 

district, ETT HEM (see listing, 

Page 15), “a home” in Swedish, 

is a superb 12-room hideaway 

and the city’s most charming boutique hotel. Owner 

Jeannette Mix bought the building six years ago and 

worked with talented architect Anders Landström and 

London-based interior designer Ilse Crawford to create 

this flawless urban sanctuary. 

The hotel sits behind a brick wall, surrounded by a 

small garden. We were warmly greeted on a rainy afternoon, 

shown around the property and invited to make ourselves 

at home in a glass conservatory off the kitchen. This proved 

so pleasant, thanks to a cushy sofa, art books, magazines 

and newspapers, that we decided to forego the museum 

visits we had planned. The chef served us coffee, homemade 

cookies and mineral water, and told us we were welcome 

to rummage around in the open kitchen for snacks and 

drinks whenever we liked. 

Our room came with a herringbone oak parquet floor; 

a crystal chandelier; a brown leather sofa with a soft, 

ash-gray sheepskin throw; and fresh flowers in a bronze 

ceramic pot set on a table painted celadon to match the 

walls. An old-fashioned sleigh bathtub occupied a sunny 

alcove by a bow window, and a woodburning ceramic 

stove warmed a corner of the room. The small bath held 

a white marble-framed Victorian-style vanity, a roomy 

white marble stall shower and stacks of fluffy white towels. 

We marveled at the attention to detail: hefty handmade 

oak coat hangers in the wardrobe; bedside reading lamps 

on easy-to-reach dimmer switches; an in-room iPad in a 

handmade case; and a ruinously well-stocked minibar 

housed in a brass-clad étagère. 

The hotel’s fitness area includes a sauna and a large, 

well-equipped gym. In fine weather, guests may read on 

chaises in the walled garden. The smart young staff is 

professional and personable without being invasive. Most 

hoteliers aspire to make their guests feel at home, but Ett 

Hem truly lives up to its name. AH 

the use of local seasonal 

HARPER 

produce, and this is 

seen in dishes such as 

ANDREW 

oysters with fermented 

© 

cucumber, and braised 

oxtail with beer gelée 

and dried beetroot. Odd 

GASTROLOGIK 

as these may sound, 

they’re delicious, which 

is why reservations are 

required well in advance. 

COPENHAGEN NIMB, © 

For all recommended 

PHOTO 

Stockholm restaurants, 

see Page 16. COVER

cover » Soldiers at Amalienborg Palace in Copenhagen, Denmark above » Guest room at ETT 

HEM in Stockholm, Sweden opposite page » Broccoli salad at Gastrologik, Stockholm, Sweden

scandinavia & baltic states : contents 

Updated October 2012 : H Hummingbirds denote Andrew Harper’s 500 Favorite Hotels in the World 

DENMARK 

Copenhagen 

7 NIMB HH 

8 COPENHAGEN RESTAURANTS 

Island of Funen 

9 FALSLED KRO HH 

FINLAND 

Helsinki 

11 HOTEL KAMP H 

NORWAY 

Oslo 

13 HOTEL CONTINENTAL 

SWEDEN 

Stockholm 

15 ETT HEM HH NEW IN 2012 

15 GRAND HOTEL 

15 LYDMAR HOTEL 

16 STOCKHOLM RESTAURANTS 

ESTONIA 

Muhu Island 

18 PADASTE MANOR HH 

Tallinn 

18 THE THREE SISTERS HOTEL H 

LATVIA 

Riga 

19 HOTEL BERGS 

LITHUANIA 

Vilnius 

20 STIKLIAI HOTEL 

G : Following listing, denotes a Harper Alliance hotel offering subscribers special privileges 

A : Following listing, denotes a family-friendly hotel

N orth 

Sea 

BERGEN 

JYLLAND 

DENMARK 

Nor wegian 

Sea 

NORWAY 

ODENSE 

1 Nimb 

2 Falsled Kro 

3 Hotel Kämp 

4 Hotel Continental 

5 Ett Hem 

Grand Hotel 

Lydmar Hôtel 

6 Pädaste Manor 

7 The Three Sisters Hotel 

8 Hotel Bergs 

9 Stikliai Hotel 

FYN 

OSLO 

Skagerrak 

2 

GERMANY 

TRONDHEIM 

LILLEHAMMER 

K attegat 

SJÆLLAND 

4 

AARHUS 

COPENHAGEN 

1 

LOLLAND 

GOTHENBURG 

SWEDEN 

MALMO 

BORNHOLM 

OLAND 

Gulf 

of 

Bothnia 

STOCKHOLM 

5 

GOTLAND 

Baltic 

Sea 

ALAND 

LIEPAJA 

KLAIPEDA 

POLAND 

TURKU 

HIIUMAA 

MUHU 

SAAREMAA 

RUSSIA 

TAMPERE 

TALLINN 

FINLAND 

G u l f o f F i n l a n d 

6 

3 

Gulf 

of 

Riga 

RIGA 

HELSINKI 

ESTONIA 

8 

LITHUANIA 

KAUNAS 

7 

VILNIUS 

TARTU 

LATVIA 

9 

DAUGAVPILS 

Barents Sea 

RUSSIA 

ST. PETERSBURG 

RUSSIA 

BELARUS

6 

» Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen 

denmark 

Denmark is made up of the peninsula of Jutland (Jylland) 

and more than 500 minor islands scattered throughout the 

North and Baltic seas, most notably Zealand (Sjaelland), 

Funen (Fyn), Vendsyssel-Thy, Lolland, Falster and 

Bornholm. This seafaring nation is known for the 

friendliness of its citizens, as well as for its lovely coastal 

countryside (nowhere in Denmark is farther than 32 miles 

from the ocean) and rich Viking heritage. The country’s 

capital, Copenhagen, is arguably the most congenial of the Scandinavian cities. 

CLIMATE : Denmark’s climate is similar to that of Britain, with mild winters punctuated 

by occasional cold spells. Summers are temperate, and rain is always a possibility. 

Copenhagen 

Temp (F) JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC 

Average high 36 36 41 51 61 67 72 70 64 54 45 39 

Average low 28 28 31 37 45 52 56 56 51 45 36 31 

PM humidity 83 80 75 65 57 57 60 61 66 75 80 83 

Days w/rain 17 12 12 12 12 13 14 14 15 15 15 17 

Precip (in) 2.0 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 2.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.0 2.0 

TIME : Six hours ahead of New York (EST). 

CURRENCY : Danish krone (DKK). Fluctuating rate valued at DKK6 = US$1.00 as 

of August 2012. 

U.S. EMBASSY : Copenhagen, Tel. 3341-7100. 

DIRECT DIAL CODES : To phone hotels and restaurants in Denmark, dial 011 (international 

access) + 45 (Denmark code) + city code and local numbers in listings. 

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS : Passport (valid for three months beyond end of stay). Visit 

travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov. 

GENERAL INFORMATION : Visit goscandinavia.com before your trip. 

denmark Updated October 2012 AndrewHarper.com

Copenhagen 

Copenhagen is an appealing and stylish city, with 

handsome cobbled squares and copper-roofed townhouses 

complemented by elegant modern architecture. Numerous 

fine restaurants — the city can usually boast around 

a dozen with Michelin stars — serve delicious cuisine 

employing superb local fish and produce. Copenhagen 

is famously pedestrian-friendly and has several classic 

attractions to commend it: Tivoli Gardens, Amalienborg 

Palace and the Stroget promenade. The summer jazz festival is one of the best in 

the world. Since 2000, Copenhagen has been connected to southern Sweden by the 

five-mile Oresund Bridge. 

nimb HH : Elegant 14-room boutique hotel within a refurbished centuryold 

Moorish-style structure facing the famed Tivoli Gardens, near the major 

shopping district. Spacious, individually designed suites provide large windows, 

fireplaces and a mix of traditional and modern Danish furniture and accessories; 

stylish baths offer deep tubs and twin vessel-type basins. The fine-dining 

Nimb Louise features Danish dishes with a modern twist from Executive Chef 

Allan Poulsen Herman; also a brasserie for casual dining around a large open 

kitchen. Afternoon tea and cocktails are served in the grand Nimb Bar, while 

a separate wine bar provides light snacks and lists more than 1,000 wines. 

Deluxe Room, from $735; Junior Suite, from $1,070. Bernstorffsgade 5, 1577 Copenhagen. 

Tel. 88-70-00-00. nimb.dk 

Travel Assistance / (800) 375-4685 Updated October 2012 denmark 7 

» NIMB

8 

» NOMA 

NOMA © DITTE ISAGER 

Copenhagen Restaurants 

(Prices reflect approximate cost of dinner per person, excluding wine) 

GERANIUM : With a striking modern dining room 

of white walls, charcoal banquettes and a dark 

plank floor overlooking the leafy Faelledparken 

(“Common Gardens”), Geranium offers intriguing New 

Scandinavian cuisine (a cooking style that attempts 

to use only ingredients native to the region). The 

creative menu by chefs Rasmus Kofoed and Søren 

Ledet changes with the seasons, but runs to dishes 

such as monkfish with mussel jelly, mussel juice, and herbs and flowers 

from a local beach; venison with smoked bacon, beets, mushrooms and 

wild herbs; and elderberry jelly for dessert. As a further expression of their 

commitment to healthful gastronomy, an organic vegetarian menu is also 

offered. Per Henrik Lings Allé 4. Tel. 6996-0020. US$130. 

IDA DAVIDSEN : Smørrebrød, or open-faced sandwiches topped with a variety 

of delicious garnishes, are a Danish passion. Ida Davidsen is locally famous 

for serving the best of these quick eats. Try the smoked salmon with lungfish 

caviar, or maybe the “Hans Christian Andersen,” named for the famous 

children’s writer and piled high with liver pâté, bacon and tomatoes. This 

place is ideal for lunch. Store Kongensgade 70. Tel. 3391-3655. US$35. 

KODBYENS FISKEBAR : This seafood restaurant in the unlikely venue of an old 

slaughterhouse pulls a fashionable crowd with an outstanding menu of dishes 

by chef-owner Anders Selmer, who previously cooked at the city’s famous Noma 

restaurant. Relaxed and casual, it’s an ideal place to sample appealing dishes 

such as pollack ceviche with finely sliced radishes, or cod steak with a beurre 

blanc. An excellent selection of oysters and other fresh shellfish is also available. 

Flæsketorvet 100, Vesterbro. Tel. 3215-5656. US$65. 

MIELCKE & HURTIGKARL : Located in a pretty 18th-century pavilion in the Royal 

Danish Horticultural Society’s Gardens, this fashionable restaurant has a 

whimsical modern décor and serves excellent contemporary Danish cooking. 

At lunch, the menu highlights the best Scandinavian shellfish, while at dinner, 

an offbeat and inventive prix-fixe menu is presented. This runs to dishes such 

as monkfish foie gras, smoked scallops with onion and coconut, and venison 

prepared two ways. The food is fascinating, but best suited to the gastronomically 

adventurous. Frederiksberg Runddel 1, Frederiksberg. Tel. 3834-8436. US$80. 

NOMA : Tucked into an old warehouse on the Christianshavn docks, this smart, 

minimalist restaurant uses only Scandinavian/Arctic ingredients. Chef René 

Redzepi’s innovative “modern Danish” fare features delights such as filet of 

Greenland musk ox; pickled skate and black pudding with an elderberry and 

foamed mussel sauce; and hare and poached pear with walnuts and verbena. 

Closed Sundays. Strandgade 93. Tel. 3296-3297. US$60. 

denmark Updated October 2012 AndrewHarper.com

Island of Funen 

The large island of Funen lies about 85 miles southwest of 

Copenhagen. A pretty and peaceful place, it is known as 

the “Garden of Denmark,” thanks to fertile soil that yields 

an abundance of produce. The terrain is generally flat, with 

the exception of a wooded ridge in the southwest known 

ironically to locals as the “Funen Alps.” Its principal city, 

Odense, is the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. 

Egeskov Castle is one of the best-preserved Renaissance 

fortresses in Europe. Built in 1554, the majestic red-brick structure is situated in the 

middle of a lake and is surrounded by a magnificent park, which includes a maze, 

a fuchsia garden and an herb garden. Funen is reached from Jutland by one of the 

two bridges spanning a channel known as the “Little Belt.” 

falsled kro HH : Cozy and rustic 16th-century inn set above a charming 

harbor on the pastoral island of Funen, one hour from Copenhagen Airport. 

A thatched-roof manor and two garden annexes contain 19 guest lodgings (no 

A/C), some with fireplaces and verandas. Request one of the spacious terrace 

suites with open fireplaces (#14, #15, #17-#21), or particularly charming Room 

#16. A wood-beamed gourmet restaurant with an open kitchen offers fresh 

seafood, smokehouse salmon, game and wild fowl specialties; estate-grown 

berries and produce; and homemade breads and desserts. An evocative and 

peaceful base for sightseeing. Double Room, from $445; Suite, from $565. Assensvej 

513, Falsled, 5642 Millinge. Tel. 62-68-11-11. falsledkro.dk 

Travel Assistance / (800) 375-4685 Updated October 2012 denmark 9 

» Egeskov Castle on Funen

10 

» Summer in Helsinki, Finland’s capital 

finland 

In area, Finland is the eighth-largest country in Europe, 

but it is the continent’s most sparsely populated, with just 

over 5 million inhabitants, more than a fifth of whom live 

in the Greater Helsinki area. Historically a part of Sweden, 

and from 1809 an autonomous grand duchy within the 

Russian Empire, Finland declared its independence in 

1917. A country of lakes and islands, it is mostly flat and 

densely forested. 

CLIMATE : Finland has a severe winter climate resembling that of Alaska. By contrast, 

summers can be surprisingly warm. Beyond the Arctic Circle, the long duration 

of the midsummer sunshine compensates for the northerly latitude. The weather 

can be changeable in all seasons, so be prepared. 

Helsinki 


Average high 26 25 32 44 56 65 70 68 60 48 37 31 

Average low 17 15 20 30 40 50 55 53 46 37 30 24 

PM humidity 86 82 70 66 57 60 63 66 72 80 86 89 

Days w/rain 20 18 15 12 12 13 13 14 14 18 19 20 

Precip (in) 2.1 1.6 1.4 1.7 1.6 2.0 2.6 2.7 2.7 3.0 2.6 2.5 

TIME : Seven hours ahead of New York (EST). 

CURRENCY : Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.20 = US$1.00 as of August 2012. 

U.S. EMBASSY : Helsinki, Tel. 9-616-250. 

DIRECT DIAL CODES : To phone hotels in Finland, dial 011 (international access) + 

358 (Finland code) + city code and local numbers in listings. 




finland Updated October 2012 AndrewHarper.com

Helsinki 

Helsinki was founded by King Gustav I of Sweden in 1550 

as the town of Helsingfors, which he intended to be a rival 

of the nearby city of Tallinn. Located on the shore of the 

Gulf of Finland, it is spread across a number of islands. 

Helsinki’s neoclassical architecture earned it the epithet 

“The White City of the North.” (During Soviet days, it 

was frequently used as a location by filmmakers shooting 

movies set in Leningrad.) However, it is also famous for its 

art nouveau buildings. The leading figure of Finnish art nouveau was Eliel Saarinen, 

whose masterpiece is Helsinki’s central railway station. Owing to the northern 

latitude, midwinter days last fewer than six hours. Conversely, summer days extend 

for almost 19 hours at the solstice. 

hotel kamp H : Lavish traditional 179-room hotel, located opposite 

Esplanade Park in the city’s principal upscale shopping area. The property 

first opened in 1887 and was meticulously restored before reopening in 1999. 

A majestic circular lobby is surrounded by huge, fluted columns highlighted 

with gold leaf. In general, the interior is a faithful re-creation of 19th-century 

opulence, with furniture and drapery reproduced from historical photographs. 

Exceptionally comfortable guest rooms provide all modern technological 

amenities as well as luxurious duvets and feather pillows, plus marble baths 

with separate showers and heated floors. Stylish YUME offers imaginative 

modern Asian cuisine; also elegant brasserie. Facilities include a day spa with 

Finnish and Turkish saunas and a high-tech gym staffed by personal trainers. 

Deluxe Room, from $395; Junior Suite, from $935. Pohjoisesplanadi 29, 00100 Helsinki. 

Tel. 9-576-111. hotelkamp.com 

Travel Assistance / (800) 375-4685 Updated October 2012 finland 11 

» HOTEL KAMP

12 

» Aurlandsfjorden 

norway 

Owing to large oil and gas deposits in the North and 

Norwegian seas, Norway today ranks as the third-wealthiest 

country in the world, with the largest capital reserve per 

capita of any nation. Norway’s landscape is exceptionally 

dramatic. In particular, the famous fjords comprise some of 

the most impressive coastal scenery in the world. Because 

of Norway’s high latitude, from late May to late July 

the sun never completely descends beneath the horizon 

in areas north of the Arctic Circle, and the rest of the country experiences up to 

20 hours of daylight each day. 

CLIMATE : The coast of Norway is warmed by the Gulf Stream, and around Oslo, 

the climate is generally temperate. However, the country extends above the Arctic 

Circle. There, summers are pleasant, but winters are exceptionally cold. 

Oslo 


Average high 28 31 40 50 61 68 73 70 60 48 37 31 

Average low 19 19 25 34 43 51 55 53 46 37 30 25 

PM humidity 79 70 61 55 50 52 55 58 62 70 80 84 

Days w/rain 15 12 9 10 10 12 14 14 14 14 15 15 

Precip (in) 2.0 1.5 1.0 1.5 1.5 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 


CURRENCY : Norwegian krone (NOK). Fluctuating rate valued at NOK6 = US$1.00 

as of August 2012. 

U.S. EMBASSY : Oslo, Tel. 2-244-8550. 

DIRECT DIAL CODES : To phone hotels in Norway, dial 011 (international access) + 

47 (Norway code) + city code and local numbers in listings. 




norway Updated October 2012 AndrewHarper.com

Oslo 

Oslo occupies an arc of land at the northernmost end of the 

Oslofjord and is surrounded by green hills and mountains. 

Although its population is small compared with that of most 

European capitals (580,000), the urban area is unusually 

spread out. There are 40 islands within the city limits, 

and no fewer than 343 lakes. Oslo is one of the few major 

cities where people live with the wilderness literally in 

their backyards. Suburban train lines allow the fortunate 

inhabitants to simply step out of the carriage and start hiking or skiing. The city is an 

important maritime center and hosts some of the world’s largest shipping companies, 

shipbrokers and insurance brokers. Along with places such as Zurich and Tokyo, Oslo 

is often listed among the most expensive cities in the world. 

RECOMMENDED : For more information, visit AndrewHarper.com 

hotel continental : Family-run hotel with a fine art collection 

including works by Edvard Munch. The 155 rooms are individually decorated 

in a combination of classical and contemporary styles; some offer views toward 

the harbor and the fjord. Eik Annen Etage for fine dining, plus Vienna-style 

Theatercaféen and Steamen sidewalk café. Deluxe Room, from $565; Junior Suite, 

from $730. Stortingsgaten 24/26, 0117 Oslo. Tel. 22-82-40-00. hotelcontinental.no 

Travel Assistance / (800) 375-4685 Updated October 2012 norway 13 

» HOTEL CONTINENTAL

14 

» GRAND HOTEL 

sweden 

Three hundred years ago, Sweden was one of the great 

powers of Europe. However, most of its imperial territories 

were lost during the 18th and 19th centuries. For example, 

the eastern half of Sweden, present-day Finland, was taken 

by Russia in 1809. Today, Sweden consistently ranks at 

the top of league tables for health and literacy, far ahead 

of some much wealthier countries. Despite its northern 

location, Sweden is warmer and drier than other places 

at a similar latitude, mainly because of the Gulf Stream. 

CLIMATE : The southern area of Sweden enjoys long, warm summers with many 

hours of sunshine. Winter throughout the country is cold and dark. 

Stockholm 


Average high 30 30 37 46 57 66 71 67 60 48 40 35 

Average low 23 22 26 33 42 51 56 55 48 40 33 28 

PM humidity 80 75 65 58 50 52 55 60 65 75 80 83 

Days w/rain 15 12 10 10 10 12 13 14 14 15 15 15 

Precip (in) 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 2.0 2.0 


CURRENCY : Swedish krona (SEK). Fluctuating rate valued at SEK7 = US$1.00 as 

of August 2012. 

U.S. EMBASSY : Stockholm, Tel. 8-783-5300. 

DIRECT DIAL CODES : To phone hotels and restaurants in Sweden, dial 011 (international 

access) + 46 (Sweden code) + city code and local numbers in listings. 




sweden Updated October 2012 AndrewHarper.com

Stockholm 

Built on 14 major islands, Stockholm is an exceptionally 

attractive city at the juncture of Lake Mälaren and the Baltic 

Sea. The city’s Old Town is a maze of narrow medieval streets 

and baroque palaces, while elsewhere, the architecture 

ranges from the 18th-century Royal Palace to the Rafael 

Moneo-designed Museum of Modern Art. Djurgården, 

the “Royal Game Park,” is a leafy oasis. Stureplan and 

Kungsgatan are Stockholm’s main entertainment districts 

— home to many of its dozens of theaters and performance venues — and Södermalm 

Island, south of the city center, is a hotbed of fashion. Stockholm’s restaurants have 

been leaders in the global “fresh and local” food revolution. 

ett hem HH : Exceptionally congenial 12-room hideaway in a 1910 art 

nouveau mansion set within a brick-walled garden in the city’s quiet 

Lärkstaden district. Rooms, decorated with marvelous attention to detail, 

include features such as herringbone oak parquet floors, crystal chandeliers, 

leather sofas, woodburning ceramic stoves and baths with roomy white 

marble stall showers. A glass conservatory off the open kitchen offers a homey 

spot to read and relax. Lunch and dinner available. Restaurants and shops 

nearby. Also, fitness area with sauna and large, well-equipped gym; terrace 

with chaises for relaxing in fine weather. Deluxe Room, from $700; Junior Suite, 

from $930. Sköldungagatan 2, 114 27 Stockholm. Tel. 8-20-05-90. etthemstockholm.se 

ALSO RECOMMENDED : For more information, visit AndrewHarper.com 

grand hotel : Landmark hotel at the edge of the harbor. The 300 

individually decorated rooms and suites are both traditional and contemporary 

in style. Dining options include Veranda for superb smorgasbord, plus twostar 

Matsalen for “natural cuisine.” Lavish spa. Premium Room, from $775; 

Deluxe Room with View, from $1,015. Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, 103 27 Stockholm. 

Tel. 8-679-35-00. grandhotel.se G 

lydmar hotel : Stylish 46-room hotel in a five-story 1829-vintage structure 

on Stockholm’s harborside promenade. Individually decorated accommodations 

are attractively furnished in modern Swedish design. Lodgings include king 

beds and spacious tiled baths with tub/showers. Inviting restaurant; no 

spa or fitness facility. Medium Room, from $560; Large Room, from $885. Södra 

Blasieholmshamnen 2, 103 24 Stockholm. Tel. 8-22-31-60. lydmar.com G 

Travel Assistance / (800) 375-4685 Updated October 2012 sweden 15 

» ETT HEM

16 

» GASTROLOGIK 

Stockholm Restaurants 

(Prices reflect approximate cost of dinner per person, excluding wine) 

FRANTZEN-LINDEBERG : This restaurant boasts two 

Michelin stars, and is one of the city’s most soughtafter 

tables. Run by chefs Björn Frantzén and Daniel 

Lindeberg, the intimate white dining room has sleek 

furniture and modern art on the walls. Seasonal produce 

stars on tasting menus that include dishes such as truffled 

pumpkin soup; scallops with smoked cauliflower; 

poached cod with tomato marmalade, olive tapenade and 

white beans; veal cooked sous-vide (in a sealed pouch) for three days and served 

with truffle jus and onion cream; and sublime desserts like citrus panna cotta on 

poppy seed pound cake with espresso ice cream. Lilla Nygatan 21. Tel. 20-85-80. US$135. 

GASTROLOGIK : A generation of young chefs is creating a sophisticated New 

Swedish cuisine. The best place to experience their work is at recently opened 

Gastrologik, in the city’s Ostermalm district. The intimate spot is the creation 

of Executive Chef Jacob Holmström and baker Anton Bjuhr. The daily tasting 

menu is a suite of surprises. What is consistent, however, is the use of local 

seasonal produce, a hallmark of the New Swedish cooking, as seen in dishes 

such as plump oysters with fermented cucumber, and braised oxtail with beer 

gelée and dried beetroot. Odd as these may sound, they’re delicious, which is 

why reservations are required well in advance. Artillerigatan 14. Tel. 662-30-60. 

Three-course tasting menu, US$115; six courses, US$160. 

DEN GYLDENE FREDEN : This cozy traditional Swedish restaurant in medieval Gamla 

Stan is a perfect address for anyone who wants to sample local specialties such 

as herring with egg, butter and almonds; Swedish meatballs with lingonberries, 

cucumbers and cream sauce; and lemon meringue pie. The wood-floored dining 

room has an old-fashioned charm, service is courtly and the wine list is excellent. 

Österlånggatan 51. Tel. 24-97-60. US$115. Three-course menu, US$90. 

MATSALEN : Located in the Grand Hotel, chef Mathias Dahlgren’s two-star 

restaurant occupies a beautiful light-filled dining room with dove-gray walls, 

mushroom velvet banquettes and parquet floors. The much-lauded Dahlgren 

changes his menu daily, but you can expect creative new Nordic dishes that use 

the best seasonal local produce, such as cured salmon with apple, cucumber 

and horseradish; porter-braised ox cheek with purée of pickled cucumber and 

fried onion; or lamb and truffles with roasted Jerusalem artichokes. Södra 

Blasieholmshamnen 6. Tel. 679-35-84. US$100. 

ROLFS KOK : Chef Johan Jureskog’s cozy, casual bistro is one of the most popular 

restaurants in Stockholm. (This is where the city’s chefs come on their nights 

off for its cosmopolitan comfort food.) In addition to classics such as escargots 

and steaks, the menu also offers more inventive dishes, including ox cheeks in 

red wine sauce with truffled mashed potatoes, and elk-and-foie-gras Wellington. 

The long bar is ideal for solo dining. Tegnérgatan 41. Tel. 10-16-96. US$70. 

sweden Updated October 2012 AndrewHarper.com

estonia 

This tiny country has been pulled to and fro throughout the 

ages. Sweden ceded control to Russia in the 18th century 

and, following a window of independence beginning 

in 1918, Estonia was usurped by the Soviet Union after 

World War II. Today, Estonia is a member of the European 

Union. Tallinn, on the Gulf of Finland, is the capital and 

commercial center, with a gorgeous walled medieval city at 

its heart. In the southeast, Tartu, the second-largest city, is 

an academic center with student-filled cafés, markets, bistros, a wealth of museums 

and magnificently restored churches. About 1,500 islands lie off the country’s craggy 

coast. Muhu is among the most picturesque: a mossy, wooded refuge centered on a 

charming 16th-century village. 

CLIMATE : Estonia has a temperate climate. The weather is typically breezy and 

humid because of the country’s proximity to the Baltic Sea. The western coastal 

areas are noticeably warmer than the inland regions. 

Tallinn 


Average high 25 27 35 50 61 68 72 70 62 51 40 29 

Average low 15 15 20 34 43 48 53 53 46 40 30 20 

PM humidity 79 75 70 60 60 52 55 58 63 75 79 84 

Days w/rain 20 19 15 12 12 11 12 15 14 18 19 20 

Precip (in) 1.2 1.1 1.0 1.3 1.6 1.8 2.0 2.8 2.5 2.4 2.4 1.9 



U.S. EMBASSY : Tallinn, Tel. 668-8128. 

DIRECT DIAL CODES : To phone hotels in Estonia, dial 011 (international access) + 

372 (Estonia code) + city code and local numbers in listings. 



GENERAL INFORMATION : Visit visitestonia.com before your trip. 

Travel Assistance / (800) 375-4685 Updated October 2012 estonia 17 

» PADASTE MANOR

18 

Muhu Island 

padaste manor HH : Tranquil and exquisitely restored manor house 

on the tiny island of Muhu, three hours from Tallinn. Set beside the Baltic, the 

property comprises the original 18th-century and newly renovated mansion, 

plus two wings of fieldstone outbuildings. Duplex junior suites have private 

balconies and are comfortably furnished with feather duvets and Estonian 

linen coverlets. At dusk, the grounds of the estate are lit by flaming torches, 

and dinner is served at the edge of the sea. A fine restaurant features delicious 

dishes such as Estonian mushroom soup, goat cheese ravioli in pumpkin sauce, 

and steamed turbot with peas. The superb spa offers a variety of indigenous 

treatments, including mud wraps (the locals have been daubing themselves 

with the stuff for centuries), “baths” in newly mown hay, and relaxing soaks in 

seawater heated by a woodburning stove. Deluxe Manor House Room, from $340; 

Junior Suite, from $540. Muhu Island, 94716. Tel. 454-8800. padaste.ee G 

Tallinn 

the three sisters hotel H : Luxurious boutique hotel of 23 

rooms and suites created from three gabled merchants’ houses dating from 

1362. Located on a quiet, cobbled medieval street in the city’s picturesque Old 

Town, the property is just a brief walk from all of Tallinn’s most interesting 

attractions and notable restaurants. Every room is individually decorated, but 

all feature exposed beams, parquet floors, goose-down duvets and a mixture of 

antiques and contemporary furniture. Brazilian slate baths are appointed with 

power showers and modern fixtures. Our favorite accommodations are the attic 

suites, particularly the Red Room, the singular charm of which comes from its 

many dormer windows and skylights. The exceptional small restaurant serves 

refined Continental cuisine and is further distinguished by an outstanding 

wine cellar. Deluxe Room, from $485; Junior Suite, from $635. Pikk 71, Tolli 2, Tallinn 

10133. Tel. 630-6300. threesistershotel.com G 

estonia Updated October 2012 AndrewHarper.com

latvia 

Like its neighbors Estonia to the north and Lithuania 

to the south, Latvia has found itself embroiled in grand 

geopolitical struggles. An independent republic emerged 

from the Soviet shadow in the 1990s and joined the European 

Union barely a decade later. Riga, the capital, mingles 

modern and medieval architecture, but its suburbs are 

dreary with Soviet concrete. Latvians embrace the long 

northern winters with skiing and ice sculpture. In spring 

and summer, citizens head for the rugged coasts and long stretches of sand. Jurmala, 

12 miles from the capital, is a thriving resort town. The countryside is well-stocked 

with stately castles and manors. 

CLIMATE : Proximity to the sea brings high levels of precipitation. Despite the 

country’s northern latitude, the effects of the Gulf Stream keep the climate moderate. 



U.S. EMBASSY : Riga, Tel. 6710-7000. 

DIRECT DIAL CODES : To phone hotels in Latvia, dial 011 (international access) + 371 

(Latvia code) + city code and local numbers in listings. 



GENERAL INFORMATION : Visit latviatourism.lv before your trip. 


hotel bergs : Contemporary 38-room hotel housed within a 19th-century 

brick building, a short walk from Riga’s Old Town and the Latvian National 

Opera. Rooms come with full kitchenettes; spacious Loft Suites have mezzanine 

bedrooms. Restaurant Bergs for contemporary/Continental cuisine, plus summer 

terrace overlooking a courtyard fountain. Studio Suite, from $240; Penthouse, from 

$500. Bergs Bazaar, 83/85 Elizabetes Street, Riga LV-1050. Tel. 677-70-900. hotelbergs.lv G 

Travel Assistance / (800) 375-4685 Updated October 2012 latvia 19 

» HOTEL BERGS

20 

» STIKLIAI HOTEL 

lithuania 

The southernmost of the three former Soviet Baltic 

republics, Lithuania was the first to declare its renewed 

independence, in 1990. In common with the other Baltic 

capitals, Vilnius’ Old Town center is a UNESCO World 

Heritage site. To the west, the cities of Kaunas and Trakai 

have dramatic castles, and the latter hosts a national opera, 

ballet and symphony. Kernave, the ancient capital, was a 

medieval town destroyed in the late 14th century. In the 

summer, it is now the setting for colorful folklore festivals. Lithuania’s forests and 

marshlands are preserved in numerous national parks, many of which also host 

“ethnographic reserves,” where old villages with unpaved roads and thatched-roof 

farmsteads are protected alongside the rare birds and old-growth pines. 

CLIMATE : Lithuania has both maritime and continental climates, with inland areas 

conspicuously colder than the coast. Summers are mild and wet. 



U.S. EMBASSY : Vilnius, Tel. 5-266-5500. 

DIRECT DIAL CODES : To phone hotels in Lithuania, dial 011 (international access) + 

370 (Lithuania code) + city code and local numbers in listings. 



GENERAL INFORMATION : Visit lietuva.lt/en/tourism before your trip. 


stikliai hotel : Ideally located 43-room hotel comprising a complex of 

16th-century houses in Vilnius. The rooms are cozy, but not especially spacious; 

some suites feature 18th-century murals. A gourmet restaurant serves Frenchinspired 

cuisine; Lithuanian food can be found in a vaulted basement tavern. 

Heated indoor pool, sauna and fitness center. Junior Suite, from $420; Suite, from 

$600. Gaono Str. 7, 01131 Vilnius. Tel. 5-264-9595. stikliaihotel.lt 

lithuania Updated October 2012 AndrewHarper.com

Updated October 2012 - Andrew Harper

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