Feminism in Russia - Passport magazine

Wine & Dining
Myskhako:
war, peace and wine
Eleonora Scholes
War legacy
It feels weird, to the point of claustrophobia, to stand in the
tiny underground cell. The whole space measures no more
than six square metres. The walls are lined with wood and the
simple furniture consists of a wooden table and bench, with a
metal stove in the corner. Under a dim light one sees the relics
of World War II, or the Great Patriotic War as it was known in
the Soviet Union. There are weapons and helmets, and even
wartime teacups, evoking another era, when desperate handto-hand
combat took place in the vicinity almost 70 years ago.
A winery complex is an improbable location to visit the dugout,
but then this is Myskhako, a historic battleground where
some of World War II’s bloodiest battles were fought. Geographically,
Myskhako is located on a hilly promontory on the Black
Sea, to the south of the great city port Novorossiysk. It also lends
April 2011
its name to a local winery, originally founded back in 1903, which
is now a leading producer of quality Russian wines.
In Soviet times, Myskhako wines were reserved solely for
the Communist Party elite, largely thanks to one time General
Secretary Leonid Brezhnev, who incidentally fought in
the area during the war. In the mid-nineties the former state
farm, including the vineyards and production facilities, was
privatised. The current management team arrived in 2002, to
open a new chapter in the winery’s history.
Privileged spot
From a natural perspective, the southern slopes of the
Myskhako promontory are an excellent spot to grow grapes.
The sea, which is never far from view, tempers the hot summers
whilst making the winters mild. The splendidly named
Koldoon, or Wizard Mountain, helps protect the area from
harsh northerly winds and bad weather. Soils are composed