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Most of these new photographers<br />

were intimately familiar with Vogue<br />

and the magazine’s history, and they<br />

displayed influences and aesthetic<br />

links to Vogue’s visual footprint. Tim<br />

Walker’s work has a tangible connection<br />

to the romantic strain of Norman<br />

Parkinson and Cecil Beaton. Walker<br />

was Richard Avedon’s assistant for<br />

several years in New York, but also<br />

says that “Irving Penn undoubtedly<br />

had an influence on my development<br />

as a photographer.” Craig McDean<br />

was Nick Knight’s assistant. Horacio<br />

Salinas, who took some conceptual<br />

pictures for the magazine after Penn’s<br />

death, had been one of the master’s<br />

assistants. Sebastian Kim, a photographer<br />

Vogue uses for portraits or<br />

less formal shots, worked as an assistant<br />

for both Avedon and Steven<br />

Meisel. Norman Jean Roy greatly<br />

admired Avedon, and Avedon’s work<br />

was the main reason he decided to<br />

become a professional photographer.<br />

“Before they started to work for<br />

American Vogue, some of these photographers<br />

had already been taking<br />

pictures for our European editions<br />

and successfully launching advertising<br />

campaigns for our most famous<br />

brand advertisers. Therefore, it was as<br />

if fashion and Vogue were in their professional<br />

DNA,” says Shaw.<br />

CAPTION TK<br />

When CAPTION Wintour TKreviewed<br />

the<br />

photos from the shoot she<br />

found them too formal and<br />

lacking in energy so the<br />

story was re-thought and<br />

reduced in scale. Using only<br />

one model, and a fraction<br />

of the wardrobe, the story<br />

was shot over and moved<br />

from the studio to the<br />

outdoors. Top, right, Natalia<br />

is in an Alexander McQueen<br />

silk-taffeta jacket and<br />

pleated bustier dress. In the<br />

larger photograph at bottom,<br />

she wears a Rochas silk<br />

jacket and skirt.<br />

CAPTION TK<br />

When CAPTION Wintour TKreviewed<br />

the<br />

photos from the shoot she<br />

found them too formal and<br />

lacking in energy so the<br />

story was re-thought and<br />

reduced in scale. Using only<br />

one model, and a fraction<br />

of the wardrobe, the story<br />

was shot over and moved<br />

from the studio to the<br />

outdoors. Top, right, Natalia<br />

is in an Alexander McQueen<br />

silk-taffeta jacket and<br />

pleated bustier dress. In the<br />

larger photograph at bottom,<br />

she wears a Rochas silk<br />

jacket and skirt.<br />

CAPTION TK<br />

When CAPTION Wintour TKreviewed<br />

the<br />

photos from the shoot she<br />

found them too formal and<br />

lacking in energy so the<br />

story was re-thought and<br />

reduced in scale. Using only<br />

one model, and a fraction<br />

of the wardrobe, the story<br />

was shot over and moved<br />

from the studio to the<br />

outdoors. Top, right, Natalia<br />

is in an Alexander McQueen<br />

silk-taffeta jacket and<br />

pleated bustier dress. In the<br />

larger photograph at bottom,<br />

she wears a Rochas silk<br />

jacket and skirt.<br />

383

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