Mountain - Explore Big Sky

Photo by Jake CamPos 

eXPLOrING LIFe, LAND AND CuLTure FrOm THe HeArT OF THe YeLLOWsTONe reGION 

Mountain 

Primitive hunter: 

SaSha hyland 

gear 

dogS • kidS • car camping • BikeS 

YeLLOWsTONe 

adventure & culture in 

and around the park 

explorebigsky.com 



FREE 

summer 2013 

waShington 

wineries 

angler-conServationiSt 

craig mathewS 

A formAtion: 

Bakken photo eSSay 

electronic dance muSic in a creScendo 

1

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as evening fades to night, steam rises from the moon-like surface 

of the upper terraces of mammoth hot Springs. 

photo By ethan confer / ethanconfer.com 

4 Mountain explorebigsky.com 

to

c 



summer 2013 

ON THe COver: Sasha hyland practices 

her mounted archery on the ellison 

ranch, near mcleod, montana. hyland, 

who makes her own bows and arrows, 

has shot big game animals from atop 

her horse, kalida, and is founder of the 

nonprofit montana awareness education 

and equine rehabilitation association. 

find more on page 18. 

14 TrAILHeAD 

dirt bike racing, cody’s wild west 

river fest and cheese 

18 OuTLOOk 

profile of a primitive hunter, teacher 

22 OuTbOuND PHOTO GALLerY 

30 TALes 

Bowhunting in pronghorn country 

running grand canyon at 42,000 cfS 

42 reGIONAL 

teresa Bruffey searches for her 

ancestors’ homestead 

46 eNvIrONmeNT 

a vital refuge: dome mountain ranch 

49 sCIeNCe 

will wolverines be listed as threatened? 

75 musIC 

electronic dance music – at the height 

of its powers 

78 reAL esTATe 

architect larry pearson’s pioneering 

mind 

82 GeAr 

a dog’s life 

car camping rules! 

89 eXPLOre 

a dad’s guide to mountain adventure 

with little ones 

94 GuIDe: Yellowstone region 

whitewater, galleries, spas and more 

outlaw’s restaurant picks 

104 ADveNTure 

the rut 50k, montana’s euro-style 

ultramarathon 

108 HeALTH 

gluten-free: fact or fad? 

DePArTmeNTs 

118 ArTIsAN 

Shelly Bermont custom jewelry 

12 0 FeATureD OuTLAW 

Buckskin Bill, the eccentric mountain man 

5

chick’n fried gives a young rider a run for his money at the 2012 professional 

Bull riders event in Big Sky, montana. the 2013 tour brings 

two nights of music and bull riding to the Big Sky town center July 31 

and august 1. find more at explorebigsky.com/bigskypbr. 

photo By Jake campoS / JakecampoS.com 



34 NOW 

A formation: Adapting to life in the 

bakken 

a photographic essay depicts life in an 

oil boom. 

images: tyler Busby 

words: Joseph t. o’connor 

52 PrOFILe 

A compass for life 

former cop and owner of Blue ribbon 

flies in west yellowstone, montana, 

craig mathews has influenced fly 

fishing and conservation philosophy 

worldwide. 

words: emily Stifler 

60 OuTDOOr sPOrTs: bIkING 

Three stories on two wheels: Jackson, 

wyoming, intro to cyclocross, and the 

dirt on extreme mountain biker mike 

kinrade. 

words: kristen pope, chris davis, 

emily Stifler 

68 esCAPe 

kauai, baby 

this is heaven on earth. 

words: eric ladd 


FeATures 

101 HIsTOrY 

The Haynes legacy lives on 

in 1887, frank J. haynes completed 

the first winter photographic 

documentation of yellowstone, 

spending 29 days covering 200 miles, 

and nearly dying on mount washburn. 

now, the newly restored old faithful 

haynes photo gallery provides visitors 

a place to give back. 

words: maria wyllie 

112 CuLTure 

Art from earth 

a wine expert and afghanistan veteran 

explores the growing washington State 

wine scene, and introduces some of its 

key players. 

words: kurt erickson 

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summer 2013 

PubLIsHer 

eric ladd 

CreATIve 

creative director 

mike martins 

video director 

Brian niles 

graphic deSigner 

kelsey dzintars 

sALes AND OPerATIONs 

chief operating officer 

megan paulson 

operationS director 

katie morrison 

director of BuSineSS 

development - 

yellowStone region 

eJ daws 

eDITOrIAL 

managing editor 

emily Stifler 

editor 

Joseph t. o’connor 

Staff writer/ 

diStriBution director 

tyler allen 

editorial aSSiStant 

maria wyllie 

director of BuSineSS 

development - 

pacific northweSt 

kurt erickson 

proJect coordinator 

emily o’connor 

CONTrIbuTING WrITers 

ashley allan, teresa Bruffey, chris davis, Sean forbes, caleb 

george, marcie hahn-knoff, Jenny ladd, molly loomis, kathy 

lynch, luke lynch, tony mccue, kristen pope, erik reinhold 

CONTrIbuTING PHOTOGrAPHers 

Stephen adamson, rebecca Bredehoft, tyler Busby, Jake campos, 

Joris van cutsem. chris davis, ryan day thompson, aaron feinberg, 

J.B. klyap, max lowe, larry masters, Buddy mays, forrest mccarthy, 

tony mccue, reid morth, Brad orsted, larry pearson, tori pintar, 

david reeves, Brian Sorg, kene Sperry, Jason thompson, nick 

wolcott, Jesse Ziegler 

DOG DAYs OF summer 

camp Big Sky’s third annual 

fundraiser, dog days of Summer, 

is Saturday, august 10, 

in Big Sky, montana. the fun 

includes a canine costume 

parade, a pet trick contest, dog 

demos, a fun trail run/walk, a 

rubber duck race, a cakewalk, 

ice cream floats, and the dock 

diving competition. 

find dog gear reviews on p. 82 

For advertising or subscription inquiries, 

email media@theoutlawpartners.com 

explorebigsky explorebigsky

FrOm THe PubLIsHer 

travel near and far 

Mountain Outlaw is a compilation of stories inspired from the 

region in and around our nation’s oldest national park, Yellowstone. 

In each issue, we also have a travel section taking readers 

to adventures afar. 

Past editions include stories from the Grand Canyon, Nepal 

and Bali. In this magazine, readers will get a glimpse of Kauai, a 

magnificent island paradise with arguably the most idyllic sunset 

on the planet. In fall 2013, we’ll feature a tale of traveling to 

Sayulita, Mexico, recounting the taco stands, surf breaks and 

oceanfront lodging that define this quaint beach town. 

While it’s difficult to leave the Yellowstone region, it’s fun 

to find hideaway adventures in other parts of the globe. This 

magazine is meant to inspire and help guide you to these amazing 

places. 

My appreciation for the hard work on this publication and 

support from our advertisers runs deep. For this issue, I want 

to give special credit to talented contributing photographers 

like Tyler Busby, who shot the Bakken photo essay, cover 

photographer Jake Campos and Aaron Feinberg, whose work is 

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one of the town’s finest beachside rentals. outlaw partnerS photo 

highlighted in the Kauai feature. They help bring our publication 

to life. 

Whether you’re reading this magazine en route to Montana, 

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9


FrOm THe eDITOr 

eventually emily put away her ski boots and went climbing. gallatin 

canyon, montana. photo By ryan day thompSon 

the detailS 

The magic light hits us at 10,000 feet on Mount Moran, 

and the world glows pink. 

It’s 6 a.m., and this is why I’m alive: slogging through the 

rain with a heavy pack, dragging my ski gear through the 

mud and over snowdrifts long after the resorts are closed, 

finding crisp claw-marks of fresh grizzly tracks in the 

snow. 

The sun rises over the Gros Ventre Range, hitting Jackson 

Lake 3,000 feet below. Refracting off the water, its blinding 

rays cast angular shadows. In my periphery, I see 

ancient, dark metamorphosed Teton rock, spring snow 

lapping its edges, our boot prints, and gnarled alpine trees. 

In writing and editing you must choose these salient 

details, and eliminate the rest. 

A few have stuck with me from this magazine: the way Sasha 

Hyland moves in concert with her horse; Kurt Erickson’s 

mouthwatering descriptions of Washington-grown 

wines; and the look on 21-year-old Kylee Karschner’s face, 

which speaks of determination and resilience as a truck 

mechanic in the Bakken oilfields. 

With such breadth, we’d better focus on the details. We 

hope some of them strike you in the same way. 

Emily Stifler, Managing Editor 

emily@theoutlawpartners.com

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11

FeATureD CONTrIbuTOrs 

Allan 

Ashley Allan is a holistic health coach, 

board certified by the american association 

of drugless practitioners. Born in canada, 

allan runs her practice, ashley health 

coach, in Bozeman, where she lives with 

her fiancée and two dogs. 

Tyler busby was born in gallup, new 

mexico and raised in the Bay area, 

california. drawn to the serenity of 

natural landscapes, Busby received a 

B.a. in photography from montana State 

university and currently lives in Big Sky, 

montana. find more of Busby’s work at 

tylerbusbyphotography.com. 

Aaron Feinberg is no stranger to seeing 

and capturing the beauty and natural 

movement of life. what started as a ski 

bum hobby of photographing friends in 

utah’s wasatch mountains has developed 

into a world-class, award-winning fine art 

portfolio. 

erik reinhold owns and operates Sizzlestick 

welding, llc in gallatin gateway, 

montana, where he specializes in ornamental 

and structural metalwork. 

Born and raised in montana, Caleb George, 

27, lives in missoula with his springer 

spaniel, trotter. george works six months 

of the year as a river ranger on the middle 

fork of the Salmon, and of the other six 

months, he says, “well, i am still trying to 

figure that out.” 


busby Feinberg 

reinhold George 

kristen Pope is a writer and environmental 

educator who lives in Jackson, 

wyoming. 

the father of two exuberant boys, 

ages 4 and 2, Jackson, wyoming-resident 

Luke Lynch strives to pass on 

his passion for high adventure in the 

outdoors by including his sons in hiking, 

biking, skiing and other outside 

pursuits. lynch is the wyoming State 

director of the conservation fund. 

Lynch 

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13

trailhead 

FEATURED events 

A kayaker navigates the Shoshone River canyon, west of Cody, Wyoming. 

PHOTO COURTESY OF GRADIENT MOUNTAIN SPORTS 

CodY wild west river fest 

august 23-24 

Cody’s inaugural Wild West River Fest brings together families, 

kayakers and anglers in the name of fun and education. 

“Rivers provide clean drinking water, irrigation for farms that 

put food on our tables, a place for us to recreate and habitat for 

wildlife,” says organizer Katherine Thompson, of The Nature 

Conservancy. 

Activities include river races, demos, and a fly fishing competition 

on the Shoshone River; a bluegrass concert at City Park; and 

a fly fishing film festival at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. 

codyriverfest.com 

RECOMMENDED reading 

The Shoshone Sheep Eater Indians embarked on 

ritualistic vision quests to Yellowstone’s geysers 

and bubbling mud pots, seeking guidance from the 

powerful, underwater spirits believed to be living 

beneath them. 

Today, visitors take a similar pilgrimage, traveling 

from around the world to photograph the famous Old 

Faithful geyser and swim in the warm Firehole River. 

Scholars and tourists alike can now look even 

deeper into the area’s hidden treasures and 


30 Years of wilderness 

The Spanish Peaks, pictured here, are part of the 254,635-acre, wildlife-rich lee Metcalf 

Wilderness, set aside 30 years ago by Congress in honor of former Senator lee Metcalf. A 

summer-long anniversary will include hikes, trail service projects, a signature beer, gear 

giveaways, photo contests and a giant party to cap it all off. summeroflee.com 

PHOTO BY KENE SPERRY 

atlas of Yellowstone University of California Press, 2012 

Am/Pro Yamaha racer Jordan Ashburn of Cookville, Tennessee, navigates 

Big Sky XC’s infamous rock garden. PHOTO BY JESSE ZIEGlER 

Big skY XC 

Big Sky Resort will host the American Motorcyclist Association’s 

premier off-road motorcycle race this year, August 24-25. An 

endurance race on technical mountain single track with classes 

ranging from youth to professional, “It’s tough to ride it fast and finish,” 

said Bozeman pro rider Mark Weirich. The AMA/KENDA Big Sky Off 

Road National Championships, which has a $10,000 purse, will draw 

some of the country’s most talented racers. bigskyxc.com 

storied past with the Atlas of Yellowstone, the 

first comprehensive atlas of a U.S. national 

park. With more than 500 maps and data 

compiled by experts, it offers an in-depth 

and full-color look into the area’s geography, 

environment and wildlife, as well as the park’s 

human history. 

Compelling stories from the microscopic to the 

global scale make Atlas of Yellowstone a must 

read for anyone interested in this unique region. 

– Maria Wyllie

the goods 

TeTON vALLeY CreAmerY 

when renowned dutch cheesemaker fons Smits traveled to teton 

valley, idaho instead of relaxing like most tourists, he spent the 

entire trip biking back roads in search of dairy farmers. Smits, 

who has helped start small artisan creameries all over the u.S., 

was convinced the small pastoral valley was ripe for the craft so 

renowned in holland. 

four years later, teton valley creamery is churning out top quality 

cheese, handmade with milk from independent local dairies, as well 

as a line of fresh gelatos and ice cream. 

this summer, head cheesemaker lindsay klaunig (who refined her 

skills while working with romanian gypsies, among other experts 

around the world), plans to roll out several new and reworked 

cheeses: Sapphire Blue, a creamy blue with a hint of pepper; 

the yellowstone, washed in beer; the haystack, a havarti, and a 

camembert. – molly loomis 

available at select stores and restaurants around the 

yellowstone region – stop by the shop in driggs, idaho for a taste. 

tetonvalleycreamery.com 

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Membership in the Yellowstone Club requires real estate ownership. Yellowstone Club is a secure gate guarded private community and appointments for access to view the real 

estate or amenities need to be arranged in advance. This does not constitute an offer or a solicitation to residents in any state or jurisdiction in which registration requirements have 

16 not Mountain been fulfilled. Please call or email for complete explorebigsky.com 

information. 

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17

OuTLOOk 

By emily Stifler 

Sasha Hyland was 19 when she rescued Kalida. 

“Someone had burnt her with hot rod irons – she has 

those scars on her shoulder,” said Hyland, pictured on 

the cover of this magazine with Kalida. “At first, nobody 

could touch her. She had no flight response, just attack, 

and she’d literally run people down, teeth flaring, striking 

with her front legs.” 

The horse was 3 years old when Hyland found her at the 

Shipshewana, Indiana slaughterhouse. 

“There was something in her eyes,” Hyland said. 

She had rescued another mare, Magic, at the same time, 

who was just as apprehensive of people. To get them 

used to her, Hyland would go into their pasture and 

read, and after a few weeks they approached her with 

curiosity. 

“We started playing crazy games,” Hyland recalls. “I’d 

run after them, and then turn and book it out. Both 

mares would run after me and jump and kick, playing. I 


TO BREAK 

A MARE 

Profile of a primitive hunter, teacher 

Sasha hyland with her horse, kalida photo By Jake campoS 

would hide behind trees, and then jump out, and they’d 

rear up and run away in play. It put me into the herd more 

than if I was just trying to catch them.” 

After two months, Hyland was able to touch Kalida, 

give her treats and groom her. Within a few more 

weeks, she broke the horse bareback, and now, 13 

years later, she’s gentle enough for children to ride. 

A self-described “angsty, troubled kid,” Hyland perhaps 

needed Kalida equally as much. 

Originally from Toronto, she started riding at age 4 

and moved to Michigan at 8. “I didn’t really get along 

with kids my age, and I spent a lot of time outside. 

The only connections I had were with animals and the 

Earth.” 

She recalls sitting on her parent’s deck at age 9, holding 

seed until birds would feed from her hand. 

Now 32, Hyland founded the nonprofit Montana 

Awareness Education and Equine Rehabilitation Association, 

in 2010. Through MAERA, she rehabilitates 

horses, teaches archery, bowmaking and primitive

skills classes. Classes are at her barn in Emigrant, 

and also in Big Sky, Belgrade and McLeod. 

The horses she takes in are used for riding lessons, trail 

rides, pack trips, summer camp programs, horsemanship 

classes and therapy for troubled youth. 

Hyland still has both mares, and Kalida is now her main 

backcountry horse. Since training her for mounted archery 

in 2006, Hyland has shot elk and deer from the saddle, 

both with her handmade bows (also pictured on the cover) 

and with a rifle. 

You might say Kalida is a natural. 

“Before I ever started shooting mounted archery, she loved 

running with deer in Michigan,” Hyland said. 

While rifle hunting near the Ellison Ranch, in the West 

Boulder, Montana, last fall, Hyland dismounted on a side 

hill to scope a herd of elk. She shot one, and while she 

was field dressing it, Kalida took off running with the elk. 

Hyland had to walk three miles back to the ranch. 

Hunting from horseback is a form of camouflage, 

Hyland said. 

“The prey’s response to another prey [animal] is different 

than if I was stalking around, sending off my energy as 

a predator. Horses have the ability to displace, or mask, 

my predatory energy by covering it with their own prey 

curiosity.” 

Like a horse trained to cut cows, a hunting horse learns the 

movement and behavior specific to game animals. Strategy 

is just as important as speed, Hyland says, explaining that 

she tries to anticipate which direction her game is going to 

split by knowing the lay of the land. 

She compares it to driving, watching a hawk fly alongside 

the car. 

“You see things while moving at the same speed of this 

other animal that you would never see standing and watching 

it. At first it was distracting, because I got lost in the 

beauty of what was happening around me.” 

She doesn’t see hunting as a sport, and uses every part the 

animals – from the tendons to make cordage, to brain for 

tanning the hide. 

“My favorite thing is the ability to get close, being connected 

with the Earth and seeing the beauty that surrounds.” 

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23

Rad orsted 

above: This rider had his hands full of 

a feisty bronc at the Gardiner, Montana, 

rodeo. 

Right: a big tom cat posed for a few moments 

in the Wineglass area outside of 

Livingston, Montana, before jumping down 

to resume his role as king of the mountain. 

horsefeathersphotography.com 




25

eid morth 

Todd Heath making turns during an 

evening wake surf session on Flathead 

Lake, Montana. 

morthphotography.com 


Max Lowe 

after road-tripping from bozeman, Montana, 

photographer Max Lowe found magic among the 

lunacy and laughter of the 13,000 attendees at 

Summer Set Music Festival, Wisconsin. Pictured 

here, Kim, of the indie rock band Matt and Kim, 

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27

jaSon THOmPsON 

Whit Magro nearing the top of pitch five 

on Virtual Reality, a 5.13 in the beartooth 

Mountains, Wyoming. 

jthompsonphotography.com 



jaSon thomPson 

bRian sorg 

Up close: a dragonfly in august 

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area in bozeman, Montana. 

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29

TALes 

bOWHuNTING IN 

PrONGHOrN COuNTrY 


photo By david reeveS

By erik reinhold 

The August sun was in its full fury, and beads of sweat 

coursed down my back. 

After what seemed like miles of belly crawling and pushing 

my bow in front of me, I lay in a maze of sagebrush. 

My hands, elbows and knees stung from a private acupuncture 

appointment by a covert, prickly pear cactus. I 

could taste sweat. 

I had spent the morning stalking a large herd of pronghorns. 

Now was my chance to breach their outer defenses. 

With my two doe tags already filled, I had only my buck 

tag left. My quarry, a couple of bucks among the herd of 

does, lay before me, grazing. I rose gently to get a better 

look, and before I could decide what to do next, a sentinel 

doe saw me. Busted! 

She snorted, alerting the group, and they loped a half mile 

to private property. I followed them, walking cautiously 

until I could see exactly where they were in relation to the 

invisible property line – far into private. 

Scanning the horizon with my binoculars, I found a new 

target group: eight bachelor bucks feeding, playing and 

feeling the hormones that would fuel their behavior during 

the fall rut. Watching this gave me hope, so I sat down 

to soak up the portrait before me. 

They wandered toward me and bedded within 500 yards. 

Curious about the herd, they rose and raced toward the 

does. 

I rallied to the only cover around – a few boulders about 

three feet in diameter. As I settled in, two bucks sprinted 

past me, but by the time I fumbled to nock an arrow, they 

were already in the next time zone. 

Bewildered, I turned to discover two more bucks feeding 

up over the hill. When the smaller one was about 20 yards 

away, he saw me. But the larger one stood broadside, unaware. 

I drew my bow, calculated the yardage and released. 

The buck dropped in his tracks, and triumph engulfed me. 

After thanking the spectacular creature, I field dressed 

him swiftly. 

Trekking out, I let my mind wander over the mountains 

around me, through the forests and across the high prairie. 

I meditated on my next adventure, overwhelmed with appreciation 

for this remote country. 



31

TALes 

royAL fLush 

the grand canyon at 42,000 cfS 

By caleB george 

The river’s deafening roar against the marbled cliffs hammers 

my mind like a bad bottle of bourbon. My heart 

skips as the sound of the water crashes against every submerged 

boulder, its power scouring the rocks from the 

bottom of this ancient canyon. 

Waves crash against the shore, their behavior more 

flagrant every hour. I feel cagy, watching camp disappear 

under the encroaching abyss now surging like ocean tide, 

but eventually, at 1 a.m., I crawl into my sleeping bag. 

At 4 a.m., I check the boats – my eighth time. They’re 

dancing frantically at the end of their 20-foot bowlines, 

top: caleb george shot this in one of the grand canyon’s “roaring ‘20s” rapids while running 

the river at high flow. “i can’t remember which rapid it was,” george said, “because we 

were moving so fast.” Below: launch morning at lee’s ferry photoS By caleB george 


and the once-calm eddy circling under them has turned 

to a microburst of wood, garbage and foam. 

I walk to the lower reaches of the 1,000-foot limestone 

rim towering over our camp and place my hand on 

its stony bosom. The rock vibrates beneath my palm, 

charged by the explosions of water upstream. 

I lie back down and look to the stars, the canyon walls 

silhouetted above me. Weary, I try to collect my 

thoughts from the days prior. I remember the feeling 

of my boat falling out from under me, a 20-foot wave 

smashing my chest, the brown rapids surging with power. 

The world becomes dark and wet. In this moment, 

absorbing the chaos around me, I find peace. 

HIGH FLOW reLeAses ON THe COLOrADO rIver 

george led this high-water trip down the grand 

canyon from november 18 - december 7, 2012. the 

river level peaked at 42,000 cubic feet per second 

during that time – high compared to an average 

summer trip’s 8,000-12,000 cfs. 

the high-flow release was part of a 16-year Bureau 

of reclamation experimental program designed to 

mimic the natural flooding of the colorado river 

through glen and grand canyons that occurred prior 

to the construction and operation of the glen canyon 

dam, according to the uSBr website. 

the high water picks up sand stored in the river 

channel and re-deposits it downstream in sandbars 

and beaches. these sand features and associated 

backwater can provide key fish and wildlife habitat, 

potentially reduce erosion of archaeological sites, 

restore and enhance riparian vegetation, increase 

the size of beaches, and enhance wilderness values 

along the river. – e.S.

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33

NOW 

mt 

Bakken Shale 

williston Basin 

Sd 

A FormAtion 

adapting to life in the Bakken 

photographS By tyler BuSBy | wordS By JoSeph t. o’connor 

They come for work. Waitresses, ex-cons, students, 

carpenters, strippers, oilmen. They seek promise in 

the Bakken, a new beginning, hope. 

North Dakota, where much of the Bakken 

shale formation is located, ranks 

lowest among U.S. states in unemployment, 

at 3.3 percent, and second in oil 

production. 

nd 

Longtime residents of Williston, Watford 

City, Glendive and Sidney – North 

Dakota and Montana towns in the Bakken 

formation – stay if they can, because 

it’s home. However that’s become 

increasingly difficult. An April 19, 2013 

classified ad in the Williston Herald announced 

a three-bedroom home renting 

for $3,500 per month. 

Mountain Outlaw sent a photographer, 

writer and videographer this spring to 

document the good, the bad and the ugly 

of an oil play, and to glean information 

on how Montana should prepare for 

what’s coming.

View the making of the photo essay at explorebigsky.com/bakken 

PumP jack east of Williston. The Williston Basin had 12,013 operating wells at the end of 2011, according to a 

study by Kadrmas, Lee and Jackson, Inc. released in October 2012. The basin, which includes the Bakken and Three Forks formations, 

spans 200,000 square miles and extends into parts of Montana, South Dakota and Saskatchewan, Canada. A U.S. Geological 

Survey report says there may be as many as 7.4 billion barrels of recoverable oil in the Bakken, though a 2012 Harvard Kennedy 

School study estimates 206 billion, noting that U.S. oil production could eclipse Saudi Arabia’s by 2020. 



35


A FormAtion 

jeFFrey strAnd And dAughter chyler. Williston native and farmer Jeffrey Strand, 35, waits for his wife 

with daughter Chyler, 4, at the city’s Amtrak station south of downtown. Strand, an electrician on the side in winter, started with 

Triangle Electric, Inc. in 1998 alongside 15 colleagues. Now, the company often has more than 300 contracted employees during a 

given week. “You used to know everybody driving by,” Strand said. “Now you just share the road with trucks.” In 2011, Williston’s 

Amtrak station saw 29,920 boardings. In 2012, that number jumped to 54,324.

“sometimes they 

reAlize the [oil Fields] 

Are A little rougher 

thAn they exPected. so, 

they reAlize it’s eAsier 

to go home.” 

homeless. A man sleeps outside the Salvation 

Army Church at 15 Main Street in downtown Williston. 

Although many workers pull six-figure salaries, 

and Wal-Mart starting wages are $17 per hour, 

housing is scarce, and prices are high and rising. The 

Salvation Army is offering money toward one-way 

bus and train tickets out of the city for those unable 

to find housing. “Sometimes they realize the [oil 

fields] are a little rougher than they expected,” said 

Captain Joshua Stansbury, who along with his wife 

Rhegan are pastors and administrators at the Salvation 

Army’s Williston branch. “So, they realize it’s 

easier to go home.” 

A FormAtion 


Wesley morgAn. Morgan, 49, 

was caught in a water pipe explosion in 

July 2012, while working as a pipe cleaner 

for Quail Tools. He lost hearing in his 

right ear, but his workman’s comp doctor 

told him it was allergies. When Morgan 

returned to work, he vomited from 

vertigo. Quail told him they had to let 

him go. While waiting for his new workman’s 

comp claim to go to court the last 

year, Morgan has been living in his truck, 

receiving $200 per month in food stamps. 

His mother, who is on social security back 

home in Polson, Montana, pays his cell 

phone bill. 


37


A FormAtion 

kyle huFFmAn. Originally 

from Santa Rosa, California, Huffman, 

25, arrived in the Bakken in 

2011 and found a job on one of the 

hundreds of construction sites in 

the area. This April, Huffman was 

living with his girlfriend in Fairview, 

Montana. His car had broken 

down and two friends with a van 

picked him up and brought him to 

their lot at the Buffalo Trails R.V. 

Park on the north end of Williston. 

The frigid North Dakota winters 

have taken their toll on his body, 

Huffman says. “I feel like I’ve aged 

10 years.” But he knows the value 

of hard work. “Dad raised me old 

school. We’re in the Bakken [and] 

you gotta get everything yourself. 

It’s how it is.” 

on mAy 5, there 

Were 618 job 

oPenings For 

trActor-trAiler 

drivers, more 

thAn Any other 

industry in 

Williston. 

glen hong. Since 2009, 

Hong has driven his 379 Peterbilt 

oil tanker truck 700 miles from his 

home in Hamilton, Montana, to 

Williston, North Dakota, to work. 

On his three-week shifts, he picks 

up 220 barrels of crude and deposits 

them into storage tanks around the 

Bakken. On May 5, there were 618 

job openings for tractor-trailer drivers, 

more than any other industry in 

Williston. On one day in 2011, the 

North Dakota Department of Transportation 

recorded 2,600 semis on 

Highway 85 between Williston and 

nearby Watford City.

A FormAtion 

kylee kArschner. Karschner, 21, arrived in Williston from Wellsboro, Pennsylvania on January 31. She was hired 

as a lab technician to collect water samples for a chemical company, but is now a mechanic for medium duty trucks and semis. 

She pays $1,100 in monthly rent for a 10x10 room in a house with three guys. She says the toughest part about being a 

woman in the oil patch is finding a good job with good pay. “Around here we’re not treated the same at entry-level positions.” 

And, she adds, “Don’t be by yourself after dark.” Reported male to female ratios in Williston range from 50-1, to 87-1. 



39


A FormAtion 

Williston, APril 20, 2013. 

The intersection of Main and Broadway 

in downtown Williston is reminiscent of 

when the town was founded in 1887, save 

for the stoplights and major population 

increase. The 2000 census recorded 12,512 

residents, the 2010 census, 14,716. But with 

temporary workers not registering vehicles 

or claiming residency, some estimates push 

those numbers as high as 80,000. This soaring 

growth has caused widespread increase 

in crime. From 2009 to 2010, calls to the 

Williston Police Department increased by 

250 percent. 

grAin elevAtor, rAilroAd tAnk cAr. This defunct grain elevator near downtown Williston once held 

up to 100,000 bushels of grain, while tank cars can carry 34,500 gallons of crude. Drillers first struck oil in North Dakota on 

Clarence Iverson’s farm near Tioga on April 4, 1951, spurring the first oil boom in the Bakken. Montana hit oil that July. In 

the 1980s, oil boomed again. Then in 2004, with developments in hydraulic fracturing, wells began producing black gold in 

unprecedented amounts: the U.S. Energy Information Administration reports that in January 2013, 673,000 barrels of oil per 

day were extracted from the Bakken. According to a University of North Dakota study, amounts will peak at 1,200,000 bbl/d 

in 2022.

A FormAtion 

ken redmAn. Redman gazes through his kitchen window in Crane, Montana, between Glendive and Sidney, whose 

schools are reportedly bursting at the seams. Redman, 54, grew up farming and ranching in Montana, and has an agriculture 

degree from Montana State University-Bozeman and a M.A. from Colorado State University, but with a wife and three kids, 

he had to put food on the table. In agriculture, he says, “You break even if you do well.” In 2005, he became a directional 

oil driller with Baker Hughes. “The change is going to happen [in Montana]. How can we make it best for us?” The boom is 

over, Redman adds, indicating that oil-producing areas around the Bakken are seeing sustained growth: The formation could 

produce oil for the next 40 years. 



41

eGIONAL 

Finding PUMPKin cREEK 

The big blue sky stretched in front 

of my windshield as I squinted 

through a graveyard of bugs on the 

glass. The sage and grass-covered hills 

looked vaguely familiar. 

A hodgepodge of clues led me to this 

spot 24 miles from pavement and 

1,086 miles from my Seattle home, 

alone but for the company of my little 

brown dog, Maile. Unsure of exactly 

where I was, I held the old, curling 

photo against the windshield and 

scanned the green and brown landscape, 

hoping to turn the black and 

white into a real place where people 

lived and little girls grew up. 

My grandma, Corma, and her 

younger sister Lorna were raised in 

eastern Montana, on a homestead 

along Pumpkin Creek from 1916 

until about 1925. Through the colorful, 

textured stories she told me, I’ve 

often felt I might have lived there too. 

Grandma told of riding horseback 

to a one-room schoolhouse at age 7, 

holding the reins while her 5-yearold 

sister held on behind. She spoke 


My GRandMoTHER’S HoMESTEad 

of little girls whose friends included 

a pet eagle, a dog, a goldfish and the 

horse; of waiting behind the house 

late at night for their father to return 

from his postal route; and of watching 

their mother beat a fox to death 

with a broom for sneaking into the 

henhouse. 

The homestead was harsh and magical, 

with few limits, Grandma said. 

There, little girls grew up tough, 

smart and graceful among hardworking 

people who had little extra but 

always offered a helping hand. 

When Grandma passed away in the 

fall of 2011, my world became too silent. 

The need to find Pumpkin Creek 

– the one place that always remained 

crisp in her 97-year-old memory – 

became unrelenting. 

She had talked of Miles City, so I 

knew to look on the eastern side of 

the 147,000-square-mile state. On 

the Bureau of Land Management’s 

online archives, I found the grant 

issued to my great grandparents: Section 

8 Township-2-South Range-48- 

By tereSa Bruffey 

East of the Montana Prime Meridian. 

Then, at Grandma’s memorial, my 

great aunt Lorna said in a moment 

of clarity, “Broadus. Our place was 

60 miles one way or another from 

Broadus.” 

Going through my grandmother’s 

belongings after she passed away, 

my mother and I found faded photographs 

of the sisters as children 

at Pumpkin Creek, and others of 

them as young women in polyester 

pantsuits on a journey from Seattle 

to see the homestead for the last time 

in the 1970s. Finding the homestead 

felt like a way to hold onto her a 

little longer. 

top: the author compares an old family photograph to the eastern montana landscape. right: corma and her younger sister lorna on their 

homestead along pumpkin creek. photoS courteSy of tereSa Bruffey

My earlier visits to Montana had 

been scattered and brief. Even 

so, it struck me as the kind of place 

where the right things just happen 

– those being kindness toward 

others, connection to the land, and 

finding your way. So, photos in hand, 

I pointed my truck east from Seattle 

and believed. 

Near twilight, knowing I was getting 

close but still unsure how to pinpoint 

my destination, I stopped at a service 

station in Ashland, off Highway 212. 

There, I found a map on the wall that 

showed Montana broken into neat 

squares. Township 2 was at the top, 

Range-48-East halfway down its side, 

Section 8, smack dab in the middle. 

While the service station didn’t have 

maps to take, I met an off-duty ranger 

a couple doors down who offered me 

one. Studying the patchwork of forest 

service land and ranchland, I found 

Grandma’s section some 40 miles 

northeast of Ashland, accessible via 

double-track, dirt roads. 

“Those roads are rough,” the ranger 

said. “If it rains, don’t drive them – 

you’ll get stuck. Ask a rancher tomorrow. 

He’ll know what goes.” 

Driving out of town, I pitched my 

tent at the Holiday Campground. 

As the sun dropped low, I rehearsed 

what I might say to no-time-forsmall-talk 

ranchers the next day. 

These were people who woke up 

early, brewed coffee and set off at 

dawn for a long day’s work. Why 

would they help a strange, city girl? 

Around 10 a.m. the next morning I 

pulled into the first ranch. A woman 

was bent over feeding chickens from a 

bucket. Geraniums lined the front of 

the house. 

I don’t know if I even introduced 

myself before the words, “Do you 

know where this is?” tumbled from 

my mouth, and I found myself holding 

out the photo. 

Bruffey recreates a photograph of her grandmother on the homestead in the 1970s. 

“I’m Dolores,” she said. “Would you 

like some coffee?” 

Inside, she pulled out annals of local 

heritage, maps and phone books. She 

didn’t know exactly how to get to 

Section 8, but she was sure the family 

down the way 

would. A few unanswered 

phone calls 

later, she sent me off 

with directions to 

the Lammis’ house. 

“Check back if you 

have any trouble,” 

she said. 

At the end of a long, dusty drive, I 

parked by a well-kept ranch house. A 

pile of puppies bumbled toward me, 

followed by a young man with tan lines 

visible under his clean white t-shirt and 

spurs on his work boots. 

Introducing himself, Justin told me 

that Dolores had called, and he was 

expecting me. 

these were people who 

woke up early, brewed 

coffee and set off at 

dawn for a long day’s 

work. why would they 

help a strange, city girl? 


His father, John, was busy reuniting 

a cow with her misguided calf, 

he said, then invited me inside. 

Together, we pored over a mapping 

program they used to keep track of 

their acreage and cattle. 


“Dick Gaskill. 

He’s who you 

need to talk 

to,” he said. 

“He grew up 

here, he knows 

everybody, 

and knows this 

land.” 

John returned 

and asked about my search, my 

family, and said wasn’t that 

amazing I’d come back to find my 

grandma’s place. Father and son 

deliberated on how to help. More 

calls were made, and since Dick 

didn’t answer, they sent me off 

with a handshake, a wish of luck 

and directions. 

43

eGIONAL 

Dick’s property was quiet – no cows or traffic on the dirt road 

and no other houses nearby. It was hard not to feel city paranoia 

someplace so still. A dog barked, and before I could knock, a 

woman opened the door. She, too, knew I was coming. 

“Dick should be home in the next 30 minutes for supper,” she 

said. “He’s out mending fences.” 

She invited me in and we talked about the local news and 

who’d been doing what. She offered me tea and asked about 

my family as if they might’ve been distant kin. She wasn’t 

from the area but had moved to the ranch after marrying Dick, 

far from her family and the nearest neighbor. I thought of my 

great grandmother raising two girls while her husband left for 

his postal route. 

A tall, broad man with blue jeans and a big hat walked through 

the door, his personality taking up nearly as much space as his 

imposing physical size. 

“Well, I’ll be!” Dick said with a smile, slapping his knee when 

I told him my story. 

the remains of the pumpkin creek homestead. 

I showed him the photos. “Do you know this place?” I 

asked. 

“I can take ya there right now,” he said. 

Supper still in the oven, we took off from the house, 

dust plumes rising behind our trucks. Before I could process 

what was happening, we turned off the road onto a 

rough track heading straight for an old, dilapidated log 

structure that mirrored my photos, only with the roofs 

fallen in. 

I’d found Pumpkin Creek. 

Wildflowers bloomed yellow and violet on the surrounding 

fields. A gentle northeastern wind blew over 

the ridge, drawing an invisible line from one end of the 

homestead to the other. 

I climbed out of my truck and walked through the grass. 

In the afternoon light, the golden hills above the old 

buildings glowed like velvet under candlelight. I wanted 

to absorb every part of the place – the way it smelled and 

sounded and felt. 

Had I only ever seen those black and white photos, I 

wouldn’t have known the soft hues of that rough land: 

the stubby green pines, the blue-grey cottonwoods along 

the dry creek bed and the ever-present hum of the crickets. 

The photo left out the crackle of dried tree branches 

and the kindness shared between neighbors. 

Grandma is still gone. I didn’t find her there, as I secretly 

hoped. But with help from a few friendly strangers, 

I found an unexpected part of her among the sage 

and grass at Pumpkin Creek, a place more vibrant and 

beautiful than I could have imagined. 




45

eNvIrONmeNT anglers float the yellowstone river, the main dome 

mountain ranch lodge behind them. photoS By J.B. klyap 

Dome mountain Ranch 

• A vitAl refuge on the Yellowstone river • 

By tyler allen 

The Yellowstone River spills out of the park near its northern 

entrance in Gardiner, Montana, wending through the 

Gardiner Basin and tumbling into the gorge of Yankee Jim 

Canyon four miles downstream. Its tumult slows as it leaves 

the canyon and courses through a valley named “Paradise.” 

Bounded by the Absaroka Mountains to the east and 

Gallatin Range in the west, Paradise Valley provides 


essential winter range for the northern Yellowstone 

elk herd. 

In the southeast corner, at the heart of the herd’s yearly 

migration from the park, sits the 5,366-acre Dome 

Mountain Ranch. Its western edge carved by the river, 

the property spreads eastward into the Absaroka foothills, 

where it abuts state and federal lands. A hunting 

and fishing outfitter with 30 head of horses, the ranch 

has been featured on The Travel Channel, Elk

Country Journal and Cabela’s 

Outdoor Adventures. 

Montana Fish, Wildlife and 

Parks recognized the area’s 

significance three decades ago 

and in 1986 began purchasing 

adjacent land for the 4,680acre 

Dome Mountain Wildlife 

Management Area. The ranch 

occupies the northern flanks of 

the pyramid-shaped 8,596-foot 

Dome Mountain, and the WMA 

extends northeast to Dailey 

Lake. 

The lower reaches of the habitat 

are home to native grasses, 

primarily bluebunch wheatgrass 

and Idaho fescue, interspersed conifer 

stands, providing forage and cover for 

lactating cow elk in late spring and 

early summer. Bulls have lower nutritional 

needs and inhabit the higher 

elevations, finding shelter in large 

stands of lodgepole pine. 

While the ranch grows hay to feed 

stock, most of the acreage remains in 

its natural state. 

“Dome Mountain Ranch is as 

heavily used by the elk herd as the 

[WMA] is,” said Karen Loveless, 

Livingston Area Montana Fish, 

Wildlife and Parks Wildlife Biologist. 

“It’s critical to the herd’s future 

to have access to that winter range.” 

With the ranch now for sale, Loveless 

is uncertain about the future. 

The northern Yellowstone elk herd’s 

population has declined from 19,000 

in 1994, to the 3,915 counted by a 

cooperative FWP and National Park 

Service aerial survey in February 

2013. The decline resulted from 

harvest, predation and environmental 

factors such as drought, Loveless 

said. 

“This year (2013), 77 percent of the 

herd was in Montana, and it’s been an 

increasing trend since 2005,” she said. 

archery hunters ride on public lands above the ranch. 

Previously, thousands of elk wintered 

in the Lamar Valley and Blacktail 

Plateau in Yellowstone Park. Winter 

conditions there are harsher than the 

lower elevation Paradise Valley, Loveless 

said, and predation by wolves, 

bears and mountain lions is likely 

higher in the park. 

Fred Smith has owned Dome Mountain 

Ranch since 1996, when he 

bought four adjoining parcels including 

the Gray’s cattle operation east of 

the river. The land he bought from 

Max Chase on the west side included a 

lodge built in 1959, and home to a filling 

station, restaurant, gambling hall 

and outfitting business over the years. 

“I looked all over the Rockies for about 

three years,” said Smith, who lives in 

Baltimore, Maryland. “I saw Paradise 

Valley and that was it.” 

He hired J.B. Klyap and his wife 

Lennae, former fishing guides on the 

Smith River, to manage the lodge and 

cabins, “But one thing led to another,” 

J.B. recalled. Now the Klyaps take 

care of ranch operations year round: 

guiding, haying the fields, tending 

the horses, and maintaining the lodge, 

guest cabins, fences and machinery. 

“It’s not a 9-to-5 job,” J.B. says. “It’s a 

lifestyle.” 


J.B., also a longtime hunter and 

guide, values “authentic, traditional 

and fair chase” hunts. 

“It’s pretty easy to book an elk 

hunt where they take you out on 

an ATV and drop you off, but 

we like giving [clients] the whole 

experience,” he said, explaining 

that clients mount the horses 

before first light, spending the 

entire day on horseback or foot. 

“Positive energy is infectious, 

and that’s really what made us,” 

said J.B., who believes hiring 

honest, hard-working guides is 

the secret to success. “I always 

tell guides, ‘If you’re not bleeding, 

sweating or puking, you’re not 

hunting elk.’” 

The 4.5 miles of river fronting Dome 

Mountain Ranch are home to brown, 

rainbow and native Yellowstone cutthroat 

trout. Its abundant natural vegetation 

creates ideal trout habitat, providing 

shade that keeps the water cooler. 

“It’s still what a trout stream should look 

like,” says Kurt Dehmer, one of the 

ranch’s guides. 

High above its east bank, the main 

ranch house deck faces southwest and 

overlooks the valley, the broad summit 

of 10,969-foot Electric Peak dominating 

the view in the distance. 

This landscape has been a successful 

cooperative public-private conservation 

effort, and Smith is optimistic the 

ranch will attract an individual or group 

dedicated to preserving it. 

“I hope the next owner will not develop 

the land and keep it as a legacy as long as 

they’re able to enjoy it,” he said. 

Tyler Allen is a staff writer for Mountain 

Outlaw magazine. As of press time, 

May 2013, Dome Mountain Ranch 

was listed through Fay Ranches, a 

real estate firm based in Bozeman, 

Montana. 


47

THE WEST MAY BE WILD, 


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Beer • Wine • Cocktails 

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but it’s not uncivilized 

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Located adjacent to Lone Peak Cinema in Big Sky’s Town Center 

Eye in the Sky Photography 

50 Ousel Falls Road Big Sky (406) 995-7175 ouselandspurpizza.com

sCIeNCe 

GHOsTs 

in THE 

rOCkIes 

wolverineS may Be liSted aS threatened SpecieS 

By Sean forBeS 

As difficult as it might be to chase Bigfoot through the woods, 

searching for Gulo gulo – more commonly known as a wolverine 

– might actually be a bigger challenge in the higher elevation 

rock, snow and ice of the Northern Rockies. 

The picture emerging from a new study – led by Dr. Robert 

Inman, Director of the Wildlife Conservation Society’s Greater 

Yellowstone Wolverine Program in Ennis, Montana – paints 

wolverines as solitary travelers patrolling territories between 

300-750 square miles, hunting, scavenging and caching the 

leftovers in nature’s refrigerator along the way. 

The first telemetry study of wolverines in the Greater Yellowstone, 

the decade-long WCS research focused on the 

Madison Range between the Spanish Peaks and Hebgen Lake, 

the Gravelly Range, the Centennial Mountains and south into 

Grand Teton National Park. Capturing 40 animals with the use 

of about 100 trap sites, Inman was looking for “everything” – 

their food habits, home range size, habitat use, survival rates, 

causes of mortality, reproductive rates and den sites. 

What he found was a portrait of a unique and uncommon 

creature. 

“[They’re] basically born wearing snow shoes,” Inman said, 

explaining that the 20- to 30- pound animals have paws four 

inches wide and up to six inches long. This allows them to 

travel efficiently in rugged, mountainous terrain, particularly 

in deep snow. 

One study subject known as M304 traveled from Grand Teton 

to Pocatello, Idaho, and back in a week, and a short time later 

made the roundtrip to Gardiner, Montana. 



photo By larry maSterS 

“We were sitting there at the computer, we open up the map 

that has the points on there, and our jaws dropped,” Inman 

said. “It really opened our eyes to, holy cow, these animals are 

capable of moving incredible distances over short periods of 

time, especially young dispersing individuals.” 

The researchers did all the capture work during winter, Inman 

said, because “if we put baits out in the summer trying to catch 

wolverines, we’d catch as many bears as anything else.” 

Yet even during warmer seasons, wolverines, the 

largest members of the weasel family, remain elusive. 

“People hardly ever see wolverines even though 

they’re around. When there [are] five of them in the 

entire Madison Range, you can begin to see why that’s 

the case. The odds of running into one are slim to 

none.” 

Those odds are largely responsible for the numerous 

petitions submitted to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife 

Service in the last 19 years seeking protection for 

wolverines, which in turn have raised the demand 

for information and prompted studies like Inman’s. 

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service announced on February 

1, 2013, that it was seeking feedback on a proposal to 

protect the wolverine as a threatened species under the 

Endangered Species Act. The agency received 180,128 

public comments on the proposed listing, according to an 

official at the Montana USFWS Field Station. 

With Inman’s effort and the listing process wrapping up, 

biology is supporting the expectation that the animals 

will be listed – but perhaps not for reasons one would 

expect. 

49

etrieving a wolverine killed by an avalanche photo By forreSt mccarthy 

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Like many other species considered predators around the turn 

of the 20th century, wolverines were nearly eliminated from 

the Lower 48 by poisoning practices common at the time. 

Recovering remarkably well – thanks in part to receiving 

furbearer status with harvest regulations in 1978 – wolverines 

again occupy much of their historic terrain in the northern 

Rockies. 

Despite population estimates for some of the study’s mountain 

ranges falling between five and 15 individuals, wolverines 

have generally survived their conflict with humans. 

“It’s important to point out that the biology suggests that 

number is probably the same as it was 500 years ago,” Inman 

said. 

After floundering through chest-deep snow to gather data on 

animals that can be hard to find even while wearing radio collars, 

Inman and his co-workers in the WCS study found their 

most troubling characteristic, given current climate trends, 

was just how well adapted wolverines are for cold temperatures 

and snow. 

Wolverines today inhabit a desolate, delicate niche where 

heavy snow packs persist well into spring – places like Canada, 

Alaska, the Cascade Mountains of Washington and Oregon, 

and the Northern Rockies. Warming temperatures could force 

the animals into more fierce competition with insects and 

bacteria for food and also jeopardize their reproduction cycle, 

in which females deliver one to two kits every other year in a 

den beneath boulders, logs and a blanket of snow. 

No one can say for certain what would happen without the 

protection of winter – for food or young – but an informational 

page on the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s website sums 

up the issue: “Climate warming over the next century is likely 

to significantly reduce wolverine habitat, to the point where 

persistence of wolverines in the contiguous United States, 

without intervention, is in doubt.” 

WHAT’s NeXT? 

Assuming wolverines will be protected under the U.S. 

Endangered Species Act, and that the climate will remain a 

contentious issue, Inman’s work will be essential in helping 

define what comes next. 

In 2004 and 2008, for example, his work was cited in the creation 

of management units for the Montana trapping season. 

“A lot of [our changes have] been based on research, and the 


sCIeNCe 

most recent stuff was changed based on his work, in terms 

of identifying… how many animals and what harvest rates 

should be,” said Brian Giddings, Montana Fish, Wildlife and 

Parks Furbearer Coordinator. 

Federal Endangered Species Act protection would eliminate 

the trapping season, and MFWP on May 6, 2013 sent a letter to 

the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service in opposition to the listing. 

Noting that wolverine populations have expanded over the 

past 50 years, and that there is no imminent threat, FWP 

maintained the animals do not meet the criteria for listing 

under the ESA. 

The WCS study also suggested other options including 

continued population monitoring, maintaining connective 

corridors between higher-elevation habitats, and reintroducing 

the species to the mountains of Colorado. 

With the details still to be formed, Inman addressed the issue 

of funding through the example of the Pittman-Robertson 

Act – which puts money generated through the sale of firearms 

and archery equipment into a state coffer designated for 

conservation projects. 

FORTHEPARK.ORG 



51 

dr. robert inman conducting a telemetry study in the Spanish peaks 

photo By tony mccue 

“It’s been the most successful model for reestablishing populations 

and managing wildlife anywhere in the world,” he said. 

Having revived more prominent game such as whitetail deer, 

black bear and wild turkey, the expansion of that system – to 

include other gear like tents and packs – could have the same 

beneficial effect on non-game species. 

Sean Forbes is a freelance writer based in Bozeman, Montana, 

where chasing stories only occasionally gets in the way of playing 

outside. Dr. Robert Inman is continuing to research wolverines, 

now at the Craighead Institute in Bozeman. 

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52 craig Mountain fishing the madison river near his home explorebigsky.com 

in the southern madison valley photo By maX lowe

a tenkara setup, pictured here, requires no reel – only a collapsible rod, a line, tippet and a few flies. 

designed 600 years ago in Japan by market fishermen in mountain streams, it’s simple, effective 

and relatively inexpensive, says craig, whose book on the subject, co-written with yvon chouinard, is 

forthcoming. “[it’s the easiest] way for anyone to master fly fishing… it’s going to be the salvation of 

fly fishing, get young kids into the sport.” photo By maX lowe 

As a cop in Grand Haven, Michigan, in 

the late 1970s, Craig Mathews liked the 

night shift. 

“I really enjoyed getting out of a police 

car, sneaking around, and trying to catch 

people in the act of burglary,” he recalls 

of his nine years with the department. 

“There’s a little bit of a danger buzz 

there. I fill that now by climbing around 

in weird places trying to find wild trout 

and wildlife like elk and mountain goats. 

I find myself hanging off a cliff quite often 

in places where I say, ‘you shouldn’t 

be here.’” 

At 64, Craig has thick, silver hair, a 

disarming smile and a soft, unfettered 

baritone. Together with his wife Jackie, 

he owns the renowned fly shop and 

outfitting business in West Yellowstone, 

Montana, Blue Ribbon Flies. 

Just down the road, the Madison River 

and Yellowstone National Park draw 

anglers from around the world. Craig, 

primarily a wade fisherman, has fished 

these waters for 45 years. 


“I don’t know anybody with more 

knowledge, a finer fly caster, a better 

fisherman,” said Ken Barrett, Campaign 

Manager for the Yellowstone Park 

Foundation Native Fish Conservation 

Program. “Craig is the consummate 

professional.” 

Through their work with environmental 

nonprofits, river access and wildlife 

projects in Montana and the Greater Yellowstone 

over the last three decades, the 

Mathews have changed the landscape of 

conservation in the Northern Rockies. 

They’ve also influenced conservation 

philosophy worldwide: In 2001, Craig 

worked with Yvon Chouinard, founder 

of the Ventura, California-based clothing 

company Patagonia, to start 1% for the 

Planet, a nonprofit that’s helped businesses 

donate more than $100 million to 

environmental causes. 

In this partnership, Jackie is behind the 

scenes, and Craig is the drumbeater. And 

although not a household name across 

America, he is an icon among trout 

fishermen. 


53 

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PROFILE 

POLICE CHIEF 

When he wasn’t working the midnight shift, Craig spent 

winter nights in Michigan tying flies – some for himself, 

and some for the southwest Montana fishing luminary Bud 

Lilly, who ran a shop out of West Yellowstone. 

One such evening, Jackie, a police dispatcher, decided she’d 

had enough. “You know what?” she said. “We’re moving to 

Yellowstone.” 

Craig had met Lilly during a fishing trip in the early 1970s, 

and he and Jackie began vacationing in West in fall 1977. Tired 

of the gray Michigan winters, Jackie picked up the phone and 

called the West Yellowstone police station. 

“I thought she was kidding, there’s no way she’s talking to 

anybody,” Craig recalls. 

But the head dispatcher hired her on the spot. “It’d have to be a 

package deal,” Jackie said, and passed the phone to Craig. 

Two days later they flew into Bozeman, drove to West, 

interviewed, and Craig got a job as an officer. They bought 

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a mobile home sight unseen, and in early 1979 packed up 

their daughters, Kelly and Dana, 7 and 2, and moved to 

Montana planning to stay a year. 

The police chief retired two weeks later, and Craig took 

over. 

“This town was nuts back then, totally wide open,” he 

says, referring to the aftermath of a July 4 Hells Angels riot 

in the late 1970s. Since the jail only had three cells, they 

“chained guys to trees overnight [during summer concerts], 

so the judge could see them in the morning… We’d have 

cops feeding them and giving them water all night long.” 

Jackie tells it a bit differently, having brought prisoners 

home to feed them. 

The first year, Craig picked up work as a fishing guide for 

Lilly. The next, he opened a wholesale fly tying operation, 

employing disabled fly tiers. In 1982, they bagged wholesale 

and went retail. 

BLUE RIBBON FLIES 

Craig learned to hunt and fish as a boy at his family’s summer 

home on Silver Lake, in western Michigan. He caught 

his first trout on a fly in a small stream called Hunter’s 

Creek. 

“I was intrigued with the materials, and with trout – where 

they live and how to fish for them.” He tied his first fly 

with a seagull feather. 

That fascination grew, and through Blue Ribbon, Craig 

developed dozens of fly patterns and introduced several fly 

tying materials now popular in the U.S. 

Walk into the shop, and the first thing you see is a stuffed 

leopard, which a former Blue Ribbon client shot in Somalia, 

in 1962. Turn right, and you’ll see the long, glass front 

counter, where you’ll likely find floor manager Robert 

“Bucky” McCormick. Above him are a mounted elk and 

caribou, shot by Jackie and Craig respectively. 


craig and Jackie mathews have received a number of awards for their environmental work, among 

them the protector of yellowstone award, the nature conservancy award, the greater yellowstone 

coalition Business award, the federation of fly fishers lee wulff award, fly, rod and reel’s angler of 

the year. photo By chriS daviS 

In the back, Jackie stands by the large, 

freestanding display case lined with bins 

of flies, taking phone orders, booking 

trips and ensuring every feather is in a 

row. In the center of it all is Craig’s fly 

tying desk, surrounded by 30 years of 

keepsakes. 

There, a wooden trout hangs on a ribbon 

from a Telly Award figurine – Craig has 

won four for instructional DVDs he 

narrated and co-produced. Next to them 

is a bobble head of St. Louis Rams coach 

Jeff Fisher, a frequent customer. Several 

of the books Craig has authored and coauthored 

are displayed, among them Fly 

Patterns of Yellowstone, volumes 1 and 

2, and Western Fly Fishing Strategies. 

through Blue ribbon, 

craig developed dozens of 

fly patterns including the 

Sparkle dun, X-caddis and 

iris caddis, nature Stone 

nymphs and Bonefish 

Bitters. Blue ribbon also 

introduced popular fly 

tying materials to the u.S. 

like cul de canard (cdc), 

grouse skins and zelon, 

and was one of the pioneers 

of saltwater fly fishing 

for the elusive permit 

fish in mexico and Belize. 

photo By chriS daviS 


From this perch, he ties around 12,000 

flies a year and greets customers. 

“[Craig is] a great people person,” says 

Chouinard, who met Craig at Blue Ribbon 

about 15 years ago. “The success of 

his shop is dependent on him being there 

and talking fishing with his customers.” 

In addition to Chouinard, Craig is a 

friend to President Jimmy Carter, former 

news anchors Tom Brokaw and Dan 

Rather, and media mogul and environmental 

tycoon Ted Turner. Craig counts 

these heavyweights as influences, but 

also “nearly everybody that walks 

through that door,” he says, pointing at 

the entrance to his shop. 


55 

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PrOFILe 

As an outfitter, Blue Ribbon employs 

16 guides in high summer. 

“When they walk through the door, I 

know,” said Craig, who often hires on 

instinct. “I want guides that are teachers 

who live and breathe and bleed 

fly fishing, from the history to the 

entomology to the fly patterns.” 

West Yellowstone native Cam Coffin 

has worked there since 1989. “I 

wouldn’t have been here that long 

if I didn’t like it and didn’t like the 

people I work for,” said Coffin, who 

guides on the Madison, Gallatin, in 

Yellowstone and Alaska during the 

summer, and in Belize and Mexico in 

winter. “Craig, Jackie, all the guides 

here are wonderful. It’s like a dysfunctional 

little family.” 

Tommy Bradford, a client from North 

Carolina, says this sense of community 

sets Blue Ribbon apart. “They 

remember you as you come back each 

season and don’t treat you as a tourist, 

but as one of their own.” 

GOOD busINess 

Fishing and conservation are inextricably 

woven into the Mathews’ lives. 

“Conservation is the whole fabric, the 

whole picture. It’s why we’re here. It’s 

why Yellowstone [exists],” Craig said. 

“When you live in this country, 

particularly in southwest Montana, 


left to right: craig mathews, 1% for the planet ceo terry kellogg, patagonia founder yvon 

chouinard and former nBc nightly news anchor, tom Brokaw. mathews and chouinard started 

1% in 2001, and it has since raised more than $100 million for environmental causes. here, they 

celebrate the coalition’s 1,000-member mark in 2009. photo courteSy of 1% for the planet 

your life becomes the out of doors, 

wildlife. [For me], it’s wild trout, 

clean air, clean water. If you’re here 

just to make a living and suck this 

place for every penny it’s worth, then 

you shouldn’t be here.” 

Blue Ribbon has always given at least 

1 percent of its annual sales to grassroots 

environmental causes. It wasn’t 

always easy. 

“When we were going to write the 

first check, [Jackie] and I were having 

this huge argument,” he recalled at 

GATeWAY busINesses FOr THe PArk 

gateway Businesses for the park, launched in may, gives businesses near 

yellowstone a venue to give back to the park they depend on. 

“it puts them on the yellowstone park team,” said karen Bates kress, 

executive director for yellowstone park foundation, the park’s official 

fundraising partner. 

proceeds go to the foundation, which in turn funds strategic initiatives related to visitor 

experience, wildlife, wilderness, cultural treasures, heritage, future stewards and environmental 

efforts. forthepark.org 

a 1% for the Planet event years later. 

“She said, ‘We can’t afford it.’ I said, 

‘We can’t afford not to.’” 

As founding board members of the 

Yellowstone Park Foundation in 

1997, the Mathews helped build the 

organization that is now the park’s 

official fundraising partner. During 

their eight years on the board, they 

were instrumental in fundraising for 

the new Old Faithful Visitors Center, 

completed in 2010. Those years also 

sculpted them. 

“When I drive into the park and see 

a successful fishery program, bear 

study, or the bear ranger program, 

and I can say, ‘I was part of that,’ it 

feels good, especially when [our] 

business is thriving because of it,” 

Craig said. 

The Mathews have also served on the 

Montana Nature Conservancy and 

Montana Trout Foundation boards,

and currently sit on the Trout Unlimited Stewardship 

Directors Council. 

“My grandfather always said you’ve got to give back 

to whatever helps your success in business,” Craig 

said. “You give, and then you give more, until it really 

hurts. That philosophy stuck with me.” 

Some of their work has been controversial – Jackie, 

for example, advocated in Washington D.C. against 

snowmobile use in Yellowstone. “It’s what you do if 

you really believe in something,” she said. “You make a 

stand, stick with your guns and you do it.” 

It pays dividends: Blue Ribbon’s sales doubled in the 

five years after Craig co-founded 1% for the Planet. 

“The thing that Craig has had from the very beginning 

is an understanding that the basis of his success in this 

business – and his family’s – is the resource,” said Barrett, 

who also hosted the nationally aired hunting and 

fishing show, Life in the Open. “He is the quintessential 

angler-conservationist – the best of his generation 

in the Northern Rockies.” 

1% FOr THe PLANeT 

Although Blue Ribbon Flies and Patagonia both gave 

at least 1 percent to environmental groups for years, 

the crossover went unnoticed until Craig published 

an editorial in Blue Ribbon’s 2001 catalogue to enlist 

others. 

Chouinard read it, contacted Craig, and together the 

two fishing buddies crafted an “Earth tax” where members 

give 1 percent of gross sales to approved environmental 

causes of their choice. 

Initially run as an internal Patagonia project, the program 

grew slowly, particularly in the outdoor industry. 

In 2005, it became independent and gained 501(c)3 

status. A year later, concluding competitors didn’t 

want to associate with Blue Ribbon and Patagonia, 

Craig and Chouinard stepped down from the board. 

Membership has since grown from 92 to more than 

1,200, raising more than $100 million for 3,000 environmental 

groups worldwide. 

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PrOFILe 

the mathews in 2001 spearheaded an effort to protect the three dollar Bridge fishing access, 

10 miles upstream from where this photo was taken on the madison river. today, montana fish, 

wildlife and parks manages three miles of riverfront there, and 12,000 adjoining acres are part 

of a conservation easement. photo By maX lowe 

“The 1% story resonated with me,” 

said Tenkara USA founder Daniel 

Galhardo, a member who donates 

primarily to Trout Unlimited. “I 

thought it was inspirational, especially 

as an aspiring young entrepreneur.” 

Blue Ribbon remains a member, and 

Craig’s role is now as a cheerleader, 

“Johnny Apple-seeding the world” 

through speaking engagements. 

“He is a compelling speaker who 

can move others to tears as easily as 

he himself is moved,” says 1% CEO 

Terry Kellogg. “At times he is really 

passionate about the movement that 

he’s started.” 

Funding recipients in the Yellowstone 

region include YPF, the 

Madison River Foundation, the Big 

Sky Community Corporation, the 

Federation of Fly Fishers and the 

Grand Teton National Park Foundation, 

among more than 100 others 

in Montana, Wyoming and Idaho. 

COmPAss FOr LIFe 

In 2012, the Mathews began managing 

the 28,000-acre Sun Ranch south 

of Ennis, Montana. 

Formerly owned by actor Steven 

Seagal, the ranch runs 1,200 head of 

cattle and is home to 3,500 wintering 

elk, a pack of wolves, a wolverine 

den, trout streams and a westslope 

cutthroat hatchery. A biannual 

pronghorn migration has beaten a 

path across the property at the base 

of the Madison Range. 

Craig was the ranch’s outfitter for 11 

years, and he and Jackie now live in 

the neighboring Sun West Ranch development, 

but neither of them had 

ranching experience, so it’s been a 

crash course. Already in place when 

they came on were a number of conservation 

and wildlife programs. 

These include an easement on the 

southern end of the ranch allowing 

public access at Papoose Creek, and 

an agreement with Trout Unlimited 


assuring tributaries supply cool water 

to the Madison River and spawning 

habitat for wild trout. Going 

forward, the Mathews are working 

with biologists from government 

agencies and nonprofits to improve 

wildlife recruitment. 

The 40-mile drive from the ranch to 

West Yellowstone runs east along 

the Madison River, past Quake and 

Hebgen lakes. The trip, which he 

makes several days a week, gives 

Craig a chance to fish those waters at 

least 150 days a year. 

“If there’s an hour here, and I’m 

sitting at home… I say, ‘by God, I 

could spend the next 50 minutes on 

the Madison River.’” 

Perhaps it’s this river that’s kept him 

grounded – most likely Jackie, his 

partner in business, conservation, 

hunting and fishing, had something 

to do with it, as well. 

“They’re the same people they were 

when you walk into the store that 

they were 30 years ago,” said Brian 

Kahn, host of the public radio show 

Home Ground and former director 

of the Montana Nature Conservancy. 

“I think it goes without saying that 

is a result of personal integrity.” 

And there’s connection to work. 

“Maybe I should retire,” Craig said, 

“but I haven’t found time.” 

Perhaps he’s fueled by something 

greater than himself. 

“Once [conservation] gets into your 

blood – and it doesn’t take long for 

a fisherman, as a rule – it steers your 

ship,” he says, his voice wavering. 

“It’s your compass for life.” 

Emily Stifler is managing editor 

of Mountain Outlaw magazine. 


59

OuTDOOr sPOrTs: bIkING 

Biking JAckson hoLe 

By kriSten pope 

photoS courteSy of Jhmr 


Whether you’re looking for a teeth-rattling downhill 

ride or a tranquil family outing, the Jackson Hole Valley 

has something for every biker. 

Families and beginners can enjoy paved paths and simple 

cross-country rides, while more adventurous riders 

can find thrills on downhill and backcountry routes. 

T.J. Sullivan, Bike Manager at Jackson Hole Sports, 

recommends Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s trails as 

a place for beginners and intermediates to hone their 

skills and gain confidence for downhill riding before 

venturing to Teton Pass’s more challenging trails. 

“Take a lesson at [the resort] first,” Sullivan says. 

“Work your way up the trails to the bigger jumps. Once

you’re feeling comfortable in the air and descending at a faster pace, 

[head] to Teton Pass and preferably go with someone who knows the 

trails.” 

For advanced riders wanting to head straight to the goods, Teton 

Freedom Riders President Kevin Kavanagh suggests the downhillonly 

Lithium Trail off the pass, or the 19-mile Cache-Game-West 

Game-Ferrins loop for a cross-country challenge. 

“Biking in Jackson is unbelievable, because we have one of the best, 

most diversified trail systems in the country,” Kavanagh said. “Trails 

are an integral part of a sustainable community.” 

With the area’s abundant wildlife, many bikers choose to carry bear 

spray, something Gregg Losinski, Regional Conservation Educator 

for Idaho Fish and Game, recommends. 

rIDe WITH CAre 

keep in mind that bikes are 

not permitted in wilderness 

areas. Be aware of property 

boundaries and heed all 

signs and regulations, which 

include yielding to other trail 

users. for more information 

on regulations, contact the 

Bridger-teton national forest 

at (307) 739-5500. 

“If you need bear spray, you’re probably going to need it 

quickly,” Losinski said, suggesting keeping it somewhere 

accessible. “We also recommend making noise. The bottom 

line is that you don’t want to surprise a bear. They could be 

feeding, sleeping or walking down the trail. If you’re coming 

down that trail at 20 miles per hour, you can literally 

crash into a bear.” 

Bear spray canisters – available at nearly any outdoor shop – 

can be mounted in a carrier on a bike frame. Bikes and other 

equipment can also be rented at a number of local shops. 

Maps and more information on paths and trails are available 

at friendsofpathways.org/resources. 

See next page for trail recommendations.

JULY 

19 2013 


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bIkING jACksON HOLe 

PAveD PATHs 

a combination of pathways and roads connect Jackson, wilson 

and teton village, and more are in the works, including a bridge 

over the Snake river set to be finished by december. grand teton 

national park offers a popular family-friendly path from moose to 

Jenny lake, and riders of all ages and abilities will enjoy the views 

from the ride alongside the national elk refuge. 

CrOss-COuNTrY mOuNTAIN bIkING 

Both teton pass and Jackson hole mountain resort trails saw 

major upgrades in recent years, including the connector trail at 

Jhmr that links the resort’s two cross country trails making an approximately 

five-mile loop. Jhmr beginners can enjoy the Saratoga 

trail, while advanced riders will find technical challenges and 

jumps on true grit. on teton pass, the recently constructed phillips 

ridge and arrow trails are popular options. 

DOWNHILL AND LIFT-ACCesseD rIDING 

Jhmr offers lessons for beginners and intermediates on both 

cross-country and lift-accessed downhill trails. for advanced riders, 

there is plenty of adrenaline to be found here, or on teton pass 

with trails such as lithium, fuzzy Bunny and Jimmy’s mom, which 

offer technical terrain, big jumps and gaps. 

bACkCOuNTrY rIDING 

Just outside of town, the cache creek area has backcountry riding 

for all abilities. the cache creek Sidewalk trail to the putt putt 

trail is perfect for beginners, while intermediate riders can link 

putt putt to the hagen trail. looking for a longer ride? head up 

the cache creek Sidewalk trail to the cache creek trail, and then 

around the backside of Snow king to game creek, coming out 

south of town on highway 89. Be aware that the cache creek trail 

enters the gros ventre wilderness at mile six, and bikes are not 

allowed beyond that point. 



CYCLOCrOss 

Blood, Sweat and SmileS 

cyclocross racers, often costumed, move through a maze of obstacles for 45-60 minutes, often in variable conditions. pictured here are scenes 

from the october, 2012 mulecross at the gallatin county fairgrounds in Bozeman, montana. photoS By JoriS van cutSem 

By chriS daviS 

Love mud, furious pedaling and a 

good time? Cyclocross might be for 

you. 

Racers must navigate an 

off-road track, frequently 

shouldering their bikes 

to run up steep slopes or 

jump hurdles, and then 

quickly remount until 

the next obstacle. 

“You’re down in the 

trenches and the mud’s 

flying and the tires are 

in your face,” said Ryan 

Hamilton, a rider with 

Team Rockford in Bozeman, 

Montana. 

Cyclocross frames look 

similar to road bikes, 

but are built to take on 

sloppy conditions, with 

their wider, knobby tires, 

cantilevered brakes and 

stronger construction. 

Plenty of people use 

mountain or road bikes, 

and either way, Hamilton says, you’re 

set up for success. 

reGIONAL rACes 

AND eveNTs 

mONTANA 

rolling Thunder, 

missoula, oct 19-20 

Wednesday night 

cyclocross race 

series, Bozeman & 

missoula, Sept-oct 

Last Chance CX, 

helena, oct 6 

Hot Cheetos and Taki 

Cross, Bozeman, 

oct 26-27 

msu Cross Weekend, 

Bozeman, nov 2-3 

Herron CX Weekend, 

kalispell, nov 9-10 

IDAHO 

moosecross, victor, 

oct. 12-13 

bear Lake monster 

Cross, montpelier, 

June 29 

This style of riding has seen an 

upswing in the U.S. in the last two 

decades, in part because the season 

takes place in fall and winter, the offseason 

for traditional bike 

racing. It’s also thanks to 

the fun-loving, energetic 

community surrounding 

the sport. 

Competitors tend to 

have a sense of humor 

about the difficulties of 

the obstacles, and you’ll 

often see them clad in silly 

costumes. 

Already popular in Missoula, 

the sport is growing 

around the Northern Rockies. 

Bozeman, which has 

four courses, is one of the 

fastest growing cyclocross 

markets. Case in point: 

Team Rockford riders has 

one of the highest participation 

levels in the country 

with its sponsor, Giant, for 

a team of its size, according 

to Hamilton. 

The Wednesday night training races in 

Bozeman, open to anyone, are growing 


in popularity, said Tom Owen, owner 

of Gallatin Alpine Sports in Big Sky 

and co-founder of the GAS/Intrinsik 

bike team which hosts the public rides. 

Getting started is easy, said Owen, who 

recommends building your base miles 

this summer, and when the trails get 

muddy and the roads icy, seeking out 

a cyclocross club and keeping those 

wheels spinning. 

Find more: montanacycling.net, 

idahocyclocross.com, usacycling.org 

FeATureD rIDe 

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63


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of 

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65


Sailing with 

gravity 

Q+A WITH eXTreme mOuNTAIN 

bIker mIke kINrADe 


Mike Kinrade rides his bike down mountain faces like 

he’s creating a piece of artwork. 

Watch a clip on YouTube, and you’ll see the Nelson, 

British Columbia native charging down a 40-degree 

slope at 30 miles an hour, arcing fluid turns and taking 

air as if on snow. 

But it’s not only an artform: 

With time spent scoping 

potential lines, this 

type of riding is a finely 

tuned combination of risk, 

physics, athleticism and 

intuition. 

“You’re literally dropping 

into the unknown,” says 

Kinrade, 32. “You don’t 

know how the dirt and ground will react to your tires or 

braking, or how to corner in it. It’s not like snow where it’s 

a consistent texture – every 10 feet is different, and you 

have to adapt quickly. 

“Once you’ve ridden a line and get into the zone though, 

it’s a lot more free and fluid.” 

Riding 150-200 days a year, Kinrade describes his downhill 

bike – an Evil Bikes Undead with Manitou suspension 

– as an extension of his body. 

While many of his favorite big lines are in British Columbia, 

others, like those featured in the Redbull Media 

House-sponsored film, Where the Trail Ends, were first 

descents in far-off places like the Salta Province of Argentina. 

After more than 15 years in the bike scene, Kinrade sees 

himself as an ambassador for the sport. 

“I’ve started rediscovering what it’s about, what I’m 

stoked on and what keeps me coming back. For me it’s 

more about getting out riding with friends. I like to promote 

that part of the sport.”

What was your first bike? 

when i was 14, i got a nishiki expedition two 

sizes too big. it was black with purple paint 

splashed on it, and purple bar ends and toe 

clips – the ugliest bike ever. mountain biking 

was new in nelson, and the trails were super 

bumpy and rowdy. 

Tell me about your family. 

my dad’s a kootenay boy, and my mom’s 

originally from ontario. one of my brothers is 

a hockey player in Switzerland, and the other 

is an engineer in vancouver. we’re very different: 

the hockey jock, the quiet nerdy engineer, 

and me, the black sheep. 

Describe your sport. 

i love looking for new places to ride, going for 

first descents of peaks. 

How did you get into that? 

Byron grey and darren Butler showed me 

these big mountain lines in invermere 12 

years ago, and i was like, ‘what the f*** are 

you guys talking about?’ watching darren 

ride, i knew this was the future. 

What do you like about it? 

i love the lifestyle. it’s in the mountains, with 

friends. i love ripping through the rowdiest, 

roughest terrain, doing [30 miles an hour] 

mike kinrade riding outside of nelson, British columbia photoS By nick diamond 

where you wouldn’t feel comfortable walking. 

it’s exhilarating to go where a mountain bike 

has never touched the ground and be the first 

to do it. 

How do you train? 

i ride as much as possible, and i work out. my 

personal trainer, a paraplegic [paralyzed in a 

biking accident] runs a militia-style program 

called Sasquatch performance training. 

you’re not allowed to talk, ask questions or 

stop. Basically, he tries to kill you. it’s the 

same way on a bike: you get on and hammer, 

and every element is trying to kill you. 

Tell me about your crash at the red 

bull rampage. 

a gust of wind blew me back on my bike, and 

i cased a jump. as i flipped over, my head 

hit the ground and i knocked myself out... 

it wasn’t actually that bad. i train to learn 

how to fall and come back from injuries. the 

biggest thing that sucks is it takes time off 

your bike. 

Who inspires you? 

my grandfather was an old mountain man 

who moved from ontario and fell in love 

with the mountains. he taught me to respect 

nature and life. he’s been my biggest 

influence. 


as far as riding goes, dylan tremblay. we 

grew up together, and he got me into biking 

when i was 14. [later], he would just 

show up at cross-country races with his 

glasses on and his shoes untied and win. 

he was a freak, basically. 

I’ve heard you’re planning a mountain 

biking event at baldface Lodge, 

outside of Nelson. 

it’ll be something like the red Bull ultra 

natural or the rampage – a 2,500-vertical 

foot, gnarly freestyle backcountry 

competition. it would be next summer or 

the year after. 

How would you describe risk? 

risk is getting out of your comfort zone, 

[and whether you’re ready to deal with 

it]. over time, you can tolerate more. the 

more confident you are, the more you 

minimize it. 

What is your relationship with gravity? 

it’s a constant fight and struggle, a lovehate 

relationship. Sometimes it schools 

you. [downhill mountain biking is] like 

sailing with gravity – except there’s only 

one direction, so you just have to change 

the angles. 


67

esCAPe 

DeFINITION: ALOHA 

A L o 

Sharing, in the preSent 

OHA 

JoyouS affection, Joy 

hA 

life energy, life, Breath 

the true meaning of this 

famous hawaiian term is 

“in the presence of life” 

By eric ladd | photoS By aaron feinBerg

When you visit Kauai, you feel the ‘Aloha’ 

spirit in many ways. 

Located on the northern end of the Hawaiian 

chain, Kauai is 562 square miles and geologically 

the oldest island. Often referred to as 

the “garden isle,” it’s blessed with ample 

fresh water and is truly an island getaway. 

With diverse natural resources, Kauai is 

known for its spiritual nature, lush jungles, 

the stunning Na Pali coastline and nearby 

Kalalau Valley overlook. Ancient Taro 

plant fields dot the landscape, and romantic 

Hanalei Bay Beach is one of the world’s most 

beautiful. 

Accommodations range from well-organized 

campgrounds to pampered spa resorts 

overlooking the ocean. The island’s various 

adventures are also suited for a range of 

interests, from families exploring the ocean 

with dolphins, to adrenaline junkies surfing 

Kauai’s legendary North Shore breaks. 



69

esCAPe: kAuAI 

polihale 

Beach 

1 

na pali coaSt 

kalalau Beach 

WHere TO eAT 

ke’e Beach/ 

kalalau trailhead 

11 mi. 

iSland taco 

North shore - The Dolphin 

the dolphin in hanalei is a fish market, restaurant 

and sushi lounge. couple a teriyaki-glazed 

tuna steak with a coconut porter from the 

maui Brewing company. hanaleidolphin.com 

south shore – red salt 

red Salt, a quaint restaurant 

in koa kea resort, serves up 

massive six-ounce martinis, 

sushi and mushroom bisque. 

koakea.com/dining-at-red-salt 

Fish tacos – Island Taco 

island taco in waimea is a must-stop locals’ 

favorite. grab a drink from the smoothie stand 

across the street and pair it with a Seared 

wasabi ahi taco for mid-day meal perfection. 

islandfishtaco.com 

Hip - Tortilla republic 

with locations in poipu, kauai and hollywood, 

california, this fast-moving establishment features 

guacamole made fresh at your table, an 

extensive margarita list and live house music. 

tortillarepublic.com 


hanalai Bay 

yoga 

hanalei 

2 

kalaheo yoga 

GOOD FOr THe sOuL 

North shore: Yoga Hanalei 

multiple classes are offered daily; the 

smell of fresh-roasted coffee surrounds 

the studio. yogahanalei.com 

south shore: kalaheo Yoga 

look for a class led by paul reynolds in 

this well-appointed studio. 

kalaheoyoga.com 

St. regiS princeville 

the dolphin 

kawaikini 

(elevation: 5,243’) 

tortilla 

repuBlic 

3 

koa kea 

red Salt 

hawaiian iSlandS 

A LessON IN eTHNIC 

GeOPOLITICs 

which is it? hawaii or hawai’i? 

according to the united States 

Board of geographic names, 

the official u.S. state name is 

hawaii, whereas the “Big island” 

is hawai‘i. uSBgn also states the 

collective islands are known as the 

hawai‘ian islands. 

the ‘okina is a letter in the hawaiian 

alphabet, wherein the speaker 

reads “hawai‘i” with an airflow 

restriction in the vocal tract. 

many hawaiian locals prefer 

“hawai‘i” as a form of nationalism 

and a way to emphasize their 

traditional culture. - J.o.

3 ways to 

explore 

kauai 

above: moonrise over kalalau Beach. Below: polihale Beach, located further south on the na pali coastline. 

1 bACkPACkING THe NA PALI COAsT 

Spanning 15 miles and protecting 6,175 acres of isolated, roadless 

wilderness, the Na Pali coastline is a treasured stop for any visitor to 

Kauai. As you explore the narrow, winding roads of the North Shore, 

you’ll end up at Ke’e Beach, which is where the Kalalau Trail begins. 

Known as one of the most arduous and scenic hikes in the world, the 

11-mile trail is a backpacker’s dream. 

Farmers and fishermen first settled this region in 1200 A.D. The dramatic 

setting is home to the largest valley on the North Shore, Kalalau 

Valley. While many choose to see the Na Pali Coast via helicopter 

or boat tour, hiking the Kalalau Trail is a journal-worthy adventure. 

A solid day, or a civilized two-day journey, this challenging hike is 

filled with stream crossings; narrow, slick trails; sheer drop-offs and 

scenic ocean views. The trip takes most hikers an average of five to 

eight hours each way. While regulated, the trail has become popular 

– be prepared for a mini-Woodstock style campground at Kalalau 

Beach, fronted by a mile-long strip of pearl white sand. 

If you have more time, worthy side activities include hikes to hidden 

waterfalls and lush jungle pools, bartering with local Kalalau dwellers, 

and cribbage on the beach. 

Tips : Pack light, bring plenty of water, be prepared to guard yourself 

from the sun and rain, and take extra time to stop and cherish this 

journey. Treat all drinking water, bring a deck of cards and get ready to 

see the best sunset of your life. 

After mile two, the crowds subside and you’ll have the trail to yourself. 

Rumor has it you can pay locals to shuttle your gear to the beach via 

boat. 

Must-bring gear: Sarong and hiking poles

Sunset at hanalei Bay 

2 PAmPereD AT THe sT. reGIs PrINCevILLe 

Blessed daily with the last sunset 

in the United States, the St. 

Regis overlooking Hanalei Bay is 

arguably one of the finest luxury 

resorts in the world. 

With a 93 percent return ratio for 

employees, and guests arriving 

from around the globe, this is a 

special place. Its motto: “Anticipating 

your expectations.” 

Every sunset, St. Regis Butler, 

Kaleo Guerrero, sabres a bottle 

of champagne on the resort patio, 

sharing tales of native Hawaiians 

in Hanalei and the area’s mystical 

nature. 

the St. regis Spa lounge 


The St. Regis Princeville boasts 

51 suites with butler service 

and a cleaning station for hiking 

boots in the lobby entrance. 

Sophisticated, yet at home with 

the laid-back North Shore vibe, 

its amenities include poolside 

service, a private, quiet beach 

and a valet team that helps make 

the stay at St. Regis both refined 

and memorable. 

You’ll plan to go back. 

Tip : Get a taro butter couples massage 

in 10,000 sq/ft St. Regis Spa 

stregisprinceville.com 

a view from the lobby and a romantic 

cabana dinner at St. regis 

photoS courteSy of St. regiS princeville 

sT. reGIs sPA 

A deep breath… 

(a female guest’s account) 

upon arrival, i toured the spa, which included a steam room, sauna, 

five-point shower and relaxation rooms, all while sipping coconut 

cream tea. 

later that day, we had a couple’s massage. the masseuses were 

thorough, asking detailed questions about our health and massage 

preferences. aromas filled the room, and hot stones were placed in all 

the right locations. Sixty minutes later, my breathing had slowed, and 

my mind was clear and focused. 

Sushi and a martini from the St. regis lounge was a lovely ending to 

an incredible experience.

3 eXPLOrING THe sOuTH sHOre 

FrOm kOA keA 

Along the bustling South Shore near the town of Poipu lies a tranquil oasis, Koa Kea. 

Recently rebuilt after being leveled in the 1992 hurricane Iniki, this small resort has a 

swank, yet minimalistic style, many of its 121 rooms with intimate oceanfront decks. 

A quiet pool courtyard in the heart of the resort offers guests an exquisite 

private setting. 

Highlights include in-room Nespresso machines, clean, modern décor, 

quiet, clamshell shaped beaches, calm swimming waters and direct access 

to some of the best beginner surf. The resort is ideally located near trails, 

golf, parks and other attractions. 

Translated, Koa Kea means “white coral” – a perfect match for the style, 

look and location of the luxury oceanfront resort. 

Tip: Visit the gift shop for jars of Hawaiian-made red salt as a gift to bring 

home. koakea.com 

koa kea resort hotel at poipu Beach photo courteSy of koa kea reSort 

“Bamboo altar” photo By aaron feinBerg 

AArON FeINberG PHOTOGrAPHY 

you can almost feel the earth rotating in 

aaron feinberg’s photographs. 

“i try to connect the viewer to what i see,” 

says the self-taught artist. he captures this in 

the ephemeral drama of a breaking wave, in 

kauai’s beaches and starry nights, and in his 

fine art nudes. 

Since moving to the island for a restaurant 

job in 2007 after three winters ski bumming 

in alta, utah, and taking on photography full 

time in 2009, feinberg has won accolades 

from national geographic and american 

photo magazine, among others. 

a long island, new york-native, he loves the 

rural nature of kauai. 

“on the north Shore, where i live, the bar 

closes at 10 p.m. and the closest movie theater 

is 45 minutes away. But open up my front 

door, and you have one of the craziest views in 

the world.” – e.S. 

See more of feinberg’s work at 

expandingvisualreality.com, or at his 

galleries in hanalei, poipu and princeville, 

kauai. 


73


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The music intensifies, makes you wait, and crescendos, building 

so much anticipation that the only thing to do once the beat 

drops is explode with joy – jumping, pumping hands into the air, 

filled with elation among a crowd of mostly strangers. 

Electronic dance music, or EDM, has captured the music industry 

in America and around the world. 

This is the era of instant. Compared to the underground scene 

of the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s, today’s EDM is more accessible. It’s 

immediate. It spreads like wildfire. 

From techno, house and trance, to dubstep, trap and hundreds 

of other sub categories, EDM is a vast genre of music with one 

uniting factor. 

EDM breeds energy: in the fans, in the crowd and in each 

buildup and melodic release. At live shows, lights, lasers and 

visual stimulants hit you from every angle. And then there’s the 

beat. It’s an intensity that builds within, and thrives. 

Top DJs pack clubs around the world night after night in places 

like Ibiza, Spain, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and Las Vegas. Selling out 

festivals of 300,000-plus people, these artists pull in more than 

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off on multi-continent tours and performing 150 gigs a year. 

This is a fast-paced and quickly evolving industry, and one that 

has seemingly trumped traditional record sales with the urgency 

and convenience of digital demand. Overhead is minimal compared 

to traveling with a big crew – the DJ can get to a sold-out 

venue with only a plane ticket and a computer in hand. 

Technology has created a low cost, convenient way to record 

quality music as easily in a hotel room as in a state-of-the-art 

studio. Many DJs craft new songs or sets while flying to the next 

gig. Another game-changer is the ethic of sharing music and free 

downloads, and encouraging re-mixing or mashups of songs. 

A collaboration of sound and sensation, EDM is at the height of 

its powers. >>> 


lazers illuminate the deep house tent at 

hardfest 2012, in los angeles. photo By 

megan paulSon 


75

music 

DJZ.com 

Turntable.fm founder Seth Goldstein founded 

DJZ.com in 2012, creating a dedicated place 

for professional DJs and fans to connect 

on everything EDM: news, shows, festivals, 

tours, apps, DJ beta and more. DJZ.com even 

seamlessly taps SoundCloud for the DJ mixes 

it shares with readers. 

For interactive mixing Fun, 

DownloaD DJZ apps: 

DJZtxt – a messaging app that turns emojis 

into sounds 

crossfader – an intuitive music experience 

that lets you DJ by dancing 

Watch the DJZ, EDM experience at 

HardFest Day of the Dead festival in 

LA: explorebigsky.com/djz 

DJ Z-Tripp performed at the Chamberlin Rail Jam at Big Sky Resort 

in March 2013. The two-day festival attracted more than 2,500 attendees 

and athletes. PHOTO BY JOSEPH T. O’CONNOR 

August 9,10,11 2013 

At the Bridge near Three Forks, Montana 

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77

eAL esTATe 

PATHs CONNeCTING 

TO THe LANDsCAPe 

biG SKy’S WEST FoRK caMP 

The year is 1805. As a scout with the Lewis and Clark expedition, 

you’ve just entered Montana. It’s June, so the expedition 

has to hunt elk and bear in the high country, near timberline. 

Meriwether Lewis sends you ahead, up a canyon draw to 

scout a summer camp. After hiking for three hours, you 

stop to rest in a flat clearing. An aspen grove beside a pond 

catches your eye. 

In 195 years, this plot will hold one of the finest estates 

developed in southwest Montana and one of the first in the 

Yellowstone Club – West Fork Camp. 

Architect Larry Pearson and current owner Greg LeMond, 

the three-time Tour de France winner, found this 

17.04-acreage off Sandstone Road in 1999. They knew 

right away it was the club’s quintessential property. It had 

it all – flat ground, stunning views, trout ponds and clear 

water. 


architect larry pearson designed the west fork camp fire tower, which 

doubles as a living space, to replicate the forest Service towers used 

to spot wildfires. more than 100 tons of regional schist ledgestone from 

harlowton, montana, 150 miles northeast, were used in this and the 

adjacent guest cabin. photoS By Jake campoS 

“This was a discovery,” says Pearson, who has since designed 

more than 50 properties at the Y.C. “We were pioneers when 

we found this level meadow in the mountains. [West Fork 

Camp] is the most unique site at the club. It’s livable and intuitive.” 

This is Montana. 

Below: a birdseye view of the camp looking south-southwest. counterclockwise from left are the vehicle barn, main cabin and trapper’s cabin. 

the 17.04-acre property has three stocked trout ponds. photo By larry pearSon

Stands of lodgepole pine 

reach straight and tall and 

paths connect cabins and trout 

ponds, drawing you into the 

landscape. Pioneer Mountain at 

9,859 feet rises stolid above the 

treetops. 

West Fork Camp, built by Yellowstone 

Traditions, contains 

three cabins, two outbuildings 

and a stone fire tower designed 

with historic Western wildfire 

lookouts in mind. Even with 

vast acreage, the camp has a 

sense of intimacy. 

“What’s most interesting is the 

experience you get between 

the structures,” Pearson says. 

“It forces you to appreciate 

nature as you walk between the 

buildings, and to explore this 

pristine environment.” 

Paths connect the main cabin, an 

authentic and refined log home, 

with the simple, 1800s-style 

trappers cabin set low to the 

earth beside the western-most 

pond. They meander south to a 

gathering hall designed as a center for 

family events and finally to the guest 

cabin, vehicle barn and fire tower. 

Pearson designed the guest cabin 

using two historic log structures 

from Ted Turner’s Flying D Ranch. A 

historic architectural style known as 

a “dogtrot,” links the cabins with a 

continuous roofline. The fire tower 

doubles as another living space, with 

three bunk beds and a downstairs 

Special Advertising Section 

“We were pioneers when we found this level meadow 

in the mountains. [West Fork camp] is the most 

unique site at the club. it’s livable and intuitive.” 

above: the main cabin’s living room, seen 

from the kitchen. the hand-stacked fireplace 

was built with the same native schist 

as the fire tower and guest cabin. 

right: this stable-style door and handforged 

handle access the fire tower’s lower 

suite. the wrap-around deck upstairs offers 

show-stopping views of 9,859-foot pioneer 

mountain. photoS By Jake campoS 

bedroom; its wrap-around 

deck providing unobstructed views 

of Pioneer. 

The structures are all comprised 

of local and regional stone and 

reclaimed lumber, their designs 

simple, traditional and exceptional. 

Pearson’s pioneering designs are 

evident everywhere on the property. 

Approaching the main cabin, 

the details lead your eye up the 


dry-stack native schist on the 

near northwest corner, and across 

the custom milled logwork. 

A hand-forged, wrought iron 

“rat-tail” lever on the front door 

exemplifies traditional craftsmanship 

from “the most skilled 

artisans in Montana,” Pearson says. 

Stepping into the main cabin is like 

seeing an old friend, he says. A handstacked 

stone fireplace stands in the 


79

eal estate 

West Fork Camp stats 

big sky, montana 

• 17 acres 

• 4 cabins 

• 2 barns 

• 3 ponds with fish 

• room to build main gathering lodge 

• access to private club 

center, and the rest of the 1,800 heated-square-foot 

building seems to grow around it. Hand-hewn wood 

and wrought iron accents lend character and warmth. 

Pearson’s design allows one to be a part of West Fork 

Camp, and part of Montana. It immerses observers in 

the landscape. From the trapper’s cabin tucked into the 

hillside to strolling the paths between the structures 

and along the ponds, one is connected to the estate. 

Brad W Daws Insurance Agcy Inc 

Brad Daws, Agent 

www.braddaws.net 

Toll Free: 800-865-2622 Bus: 406-586-HOME 

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the trapper’s cabin, beneath its traditional low-angle roof, peers out over a trout pond in West 

Fork Camp. the main cabin looks on from the northwest. 

“We interpreted the past and created a new paradigm with 

the West Fork Camp,” Pearson says. “There’s a sense that 

you’re participating in something bigger.” 

Editor’s note: As of May 2013, West Fork Camp was listed for 

sale through L&K Realty in Big Sky. For more information 

visit lkrealestate.com or call (406) 995-2404. 

View a video of West Fork Camp at explorebigsky.com/westforkcamp

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406 586 5593 bozeman, mt 

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81

mountain outlaw’s four-legged gear testers review their favorite products. 

doG geAred 

GeAr 

bLAck 

betty 

bLAck betty 

breed: Black lab/german short hair pointer mix 

Age: 3 years old 

Born in Big Sky, montana, and the daughter of two champion hunting 

dogs, i was bred to run and hunt. i spend winter nordic and alpine skiing 

and summer whitewater rafting, all in preparation for fall bird season. 

i’m not a fan of porcupines, skunks or moose, finding them a nuisance. 

my stepbrother cedar, who’s 14, has shown me the ropes on dealing with 

bears and finding the best swimming holes on the gallatin river. 

Gear: Cabela’s ripstop Chest Protector; ruffwear k-9 Float Coat (1) 

my hunter’s orange chest protector vest ($40) keeps me safe in bird 

season, and the comfy k-9 float coat ($80) keeps me above the rapids. 

cabelas.com, ruffwear.com 

Food: GO! dog food (2), Dee-o-Gee’s homemade treats (3) 

go! fit + free dog food (starting at $53) is a grain free mix of turkey, 

chicken and salmon proteins with essential omega oils that help keep my 

mind and vision sharp. dee-o-gee’s all natural treats, hand-rolled and cut 

in the Bozeman store, are made without salt, sugar or preservatives ($5). 

i particularly like the peanut Butter and pumpkin flavor, with flour from 

wheat montana and local eggs. petcurean.com, dee-o-gee.com 

Advice to other dogs: get pet insurance and don’t overheat in the summer. 

i suggest the ruffwear swamp Cooler vest (4) for long hikes – it’s the 

best way for a black betty like me to keep cool. ($55) 


gunner 

(2) 

(3) 

(4) 

(3) 

(1) 

(4) 

divA 

Black Betty using her ruffwear 

k-9 float coat on the middle 

fork of the Salmon river, idaho. 

photo By eric ladd

(1) 

gunner sports ruffwear’s palisades pack on a hike in Beehive 

Basin photo By chriS daviS 

(3) 

gunner 

breed: curly tail mutt (some sort of shepherd/collie/Basenji mix) 

Age: a-few-thousand-naps-in-the-sun-old 

i’m well-traveled and ruff’ined. my human picked me up in 

chicago, and we moved to montana a couple years ago. this is 

paradise. i know how to coerce treats from a human, and one 

inalienable truth: if you throw it, i’ll chase it. 

Toy: West Paw Design Zisc Glow Frisbee (1) 

like i said, if you throw it, i’ll chase it. i’m also unlikely to return 

it right away. in fact, i may just sit in the shade and chew on it, 

which is why i’ll wag to the Zisc glow frisbee – i can’t rip it apart, 

and it always flies true. westpawdesign.com $12 

Gear: ruffwear Palisades Pack (2), slackline Leash (3) 

ruffwear’s palisades pack ($130) lets me carry my own food, 

water and waste, making me part of the team. the pack is 

comfortable and secure – so much so that when i can’t navigate 

a narrow spot, my human grabs the harness handle and lifts me 

through. the Slackline leash ($40) keeps me attached at the hip 

to my human. Since it’s adjustable, i’m always at his heels or a 

step behind on a run. 

Treat: Yaffbar (4) 

i sit and stay when my human reaches for a yaffBar. this is 

world’s first energy bar designed for humans and dogs to share. 

my favorite flavor is honey almond cranberry. (six for $18) 

muddandwyeth.com 

(4) 


Mention this ad for a great deal on ALL 

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83

Customized Private Tours 

- Spectacular Yellowstone National Park 

- Complimentary Gourmet Picnic Lunches 

- Great for Families! 


$699 * 

yellowstoneluxurytours.com (888)684-1167 

WE DO 

BIG SKY 

FOOD 

*This rate is all-inclusive for groups of 

up to 8 people, with the exception of 

the park entry fee and gratuity. 

YLT_HortSpringAd.indd 1 4/9/13 1:43 PM 

we deliver 

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serving breakfast 

lunch & dinner 

view menu at: 

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GeAr 

divA 

(1) 

breed: pound puppy perfect (border 

collie mix) 

Age: 98 dog years/14 calendar years 

one lifetime isn’t enough – i could 

snowboard, run, surf lake Superior, 

chase moose, hike through wildflowers 

and float the river forever. i 

live comfortably at the base of lone 

mountain and lately enjoy a good nap 

as much as anything. Snacking on 

carrots is the secret to my youthful 

appearance, and keeping my puppyhood 

ball with me helps whenever 

things get rough (like fireworks. i hate 

fireworks). 

Health treatment: Acupuncture 

every dog should go to the spa for this 

relaxing and revitalizing therapy – it 

(2) 

(2) 

makes me feel like a prettier version 

of wonder dog and lets me relive my 

days jumping creeks and sprinting after 

squirrels. $53-83 360petmedical.com 

Indulgence: West Paw Heyday bed (1) 

after 98 years of strenuous activity, a 

cozy bed is a must. i keep the heyday 

($59) in the car so i can curl up after 

muddy hikes. made from recycled 

materials, the super soft microsuede 

stays nice and clean. 

Treat: Zuke’s Organic Hip Action (2) 

with glucosamine and chondroiton, 

Zukes ($9) help keep me feeling like 

i’m in my 50s. Beef flavor is my favorite 

– it pairs nicely with carrots. 

zukes.com 

ACuPuNCTure FOr ANImALs 

By Jenny ladd 

throughout its 5,000-year history, acupuncture has had 

many applications – from human medicine to therapy 

for emperors’ horses. 

a chinese medical practice, it promotes natural healing 

through insertion of needles and application of heat 

or electrical stimulation at precise points. Because the 

chinese never desecrated a body for science, they developed 

the meridians and points empirically, refining 

the practice through observation and treatment. 

the theory behind it is that pain is stagnation of chi, 

or energy, in the meridians; furthermore, an excess 

or deficiency of yin or yang causes disease. yin and 

yang are opposite but balancing aspects of any living 

entity, and acupuncture is meant to balance the body by 

strengthening or removing these excesses. 

modern science has found many of the acupuncture 

points are located at nerve roots, along nutrient passageways 

and on peripheral nerves, and the treatment 

causes the body to release serotonin and other 

compounds that reduce pain and inflammation. 

veterinary acupuncture can help with intervertebral 

disk disease, osteoarthritis, endocrine disturbances 

and promote healing. although it should not replace 

traditional veterinary medicine, using it as an adjunct 

therapy can slow disease progression and reduce or 

eliminate the need for medications. 

Jenny ladd is a fourth year veterinary student at 

oklahoma State university, and a certified veterinary 

acupuncturist living in Stillwater, oklahoma. 

explorebigsky.com

GeAr 

Patagonia black Hole Duffel 

waterproof, rough and tumble, 

these bags have been to 

their namesake in argentine 

patagonia (120 l, by tent) and 

down the grand canyon (45 l, 

in truck). the u-shaped lid allows 

easy access to your gypsy 

closet; a big, external pocket 

and two internal mesh pockets 

keep your essentials separated. 

$99-160 patagonia.com 

the outlaw crew hardly working on the banks of the madison river, montana. photo By chriS daviS 

sea to summit kitchenware 

made from Bpa-free, food grade nylon, the 

delta Spoon and Spork weigh in at .5 oz each. 

the built-in serrated knife will saw through 

veggies, but not your hand. the curvature 

matches the delta Bowl ($7), helping you get 

every last bite of mac and cheese. $3.50 each 

seatosummit.com 


Horny Toad swifty Pocket Hoodie 

you’ll put the Swifty hoodie on and won’t 

want to take it off... for days. work in it, 

climb in it, bbq in it, sleep in it, put your 

ipod in the pocket and go hiking, repeat. 

Soft and stretchy, it’s a bit sheer, so wear 

a cami underneath. $75 hornytoad.com 

smartwool Ferndale skirt 

Split wood, cover up while you change 

into a swimsuit, take a midnight mission 

into the hills… Superwoman should have 

worn this skirt. $100 smartwool.com 

stanley eCycle flask 

Stanley’s 8 oz. ecycle flask is 

leak-proof, with a two-stage lid that 

allows thorough cleaning. made from 

recycled and recyclable materials, 

with a lifetime warranty. available in 

fall 2013. $20 stanley-pmi.com

ergans of Norway Humle jacket: 

it doesn’t take long to warm 

up to the humle. the brushed 

fleece interior is cozy when it’s 

cold and the soft wool/polyester 

blend breathes well, keeping you 

comfortable when the temp rises. 

generous torso and sleeve length 

prevents drafts. Bonus: thumb 

loops, hood and stylish stripes. 

bergans.no $189 

Coleman PerfectFlow 

Instastart Grill stove 

grilled elk burgers, stat. 

easy to clean, packable 

bbq. $99 coleman.com 

Yeti Tundra Cooler 

ice cold and grizzly proof. 

$360 yeticoolers.com 

smartwool PhD Teller jacket 

with a nylon shell, ultra-thin merino 

wool lining and sculpted side panels, 

the phd teller has a doctorate in 

utility. plus, it takes up less room in 

your pack than a big sandwich. move 

over hoagies. $160 

Goal Zero extreme 350 kit 

don’t leave your laptop, music, phone or refrigerator at 

home. the extreme 350 explorer kit “is like taking your 

wall plug with you,” said kaysi macdonald of goal Zero. 

the power pack charges a laptop in 2-4 hours and the 

weather-resistant, solar technology leaves a miniscule 

carbon footprint in the process. drawbacks? it weighs 25 

pounds and hums while powered on. $369 goalzero.com 

big Agnes betty sL 27 sleeping bag, 

Insulated Q-Core sleeping pad 

Stash this durable sleeping bag 

in your truck, and sleep easy on 

unexpected adventures. made 

from pinnecocor synthetic insulation, 

the Betty ($189-99) dries 

quickly and is rated to 20 degrees. 

the insulated Q-core sleeping 

pad’s alternating i-Beams evenly 

distribute your weight and keep 

you cradled in the center. at 3.5” 

thick, the pad rolls up to 5 x 9.5.” 

non-self inflating. (Starting at 

$119.95) bigagnes.com 

Carhartts 

the toughest work pants ever 

made. $40. carhartt.com 

The Grocer 

this reusable bag has a foursided 

internal folding frame that 

eliminates spills. doubles as a 

backpack. $25 adkpackworks.com 

Alite Designs mayfly chair 

the mayfly is small enough to toss in your car 

and forget about until it’s time to chill, and 

light enough to bring to the crag for indulgent 

belays. the low-slung design is high on 

comfort, but don’t pitch the directions until 

you’ve dialed the set up; it takes a couple tries 

to master. $100 alitedesigns.com 

mammut ultimate Light jacket 

mammut’s ultimate light 

Jacket is just that – the 

ultimate layer for cool 

summer nights. this threelayer 

gore windstopper shell 

is breathable while jogging 

or tossing dries at rising 

cutthroat. $199 mammut.ch 

Cabela’s Zero G Padded 

Chaise Lounger 

get serious about 

relaxing. $80-95 

cabelas.com 

keeN Tunari CNX shoes 

at 9.9 oz., these kicks are ultralightweight, 

surprisingly tough, 

and so comfortable. equipped 

with metatarsal ridges, contoured 

arches, and rubber soles, 

they’re supportive, and grip like 

off-road tires on muddy trails. 

$110 keenfootwear.com 

ALsO PICTureD: 

ruffwear Quencher Cinch Top dog bowl $20 ruffwear.com 

macbook Pro laptop starting at $1,199 apple.com 

kletterwerks kurier $299 kletterwerks.com 

sanuk Torrey boots $90 sanuk.com 

Pelican 1500 Case $100 pelican.com 



87


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For more information on this property and other Big Sky, Montana properties visit prumt.com. 

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Lone Peak 

11,253 ft.

eXPLOre 

A dAd’s 

guide to 

mountAin 

Adventure 

with little ones 

Was the curious chipmunk at the summit 

of 10,741-foot Jackson Peak the 

highlight of Max’s day in the mountains? 

Or the extra dose of tasty snacks? 

It really didn’t matter – the day was an 

unqualified success, and one of my most 

memorable experiences last summer. 

Not only did I get a good workout lugging 

my son up the trail, I also enjoyed 

his colorful commentary. A 3-year-old 

brings his own perspective to the mountains, 

and even small adventures can 

become big ones – that day in August we 

found a small patch of snow and had a 

snowman-building extravaganza. 

Neither my wife Kathy nor I are giving 

up our kid-free outdoor pursuits 

anytime soon, but we love including the 

little ones whenever possible. This summer 

Max will be 4, his younger brother 

Will, 2. Adventuring with them takes 

more work, planning and gear, but it’s 

worth the effort. 

For us, spending time in the mountains 

with our children is both gratifying and 

fun – plus, when one of us takes them 

out, the other gets some valuable personal 

time. Ultimately though, we hope 

our kids will share our passion for these 

wild places, and help preserve them for 

the next generation. 

Continued on p. 90 


luke navigates while max naps on Jackson lake, 

wyoming photo By Stephen adamSon 


89

eXPLOre 

PlAnning 

And executing 

A mountAin 

dAy triP 

With kids 

go short to go long 

Big goals are probably the number 

one enemy of success with wee ones 

in the outdoors. Sure, we’ve gotten 

in some bigger days with kids 

in tow, but we’ve also stopped a 

quarter mile from the trailhead and 

played in falling aspen leaves, eaten 

some snacks and called it a successful 

day. If the little dudes have fun, 

they’ll crave the next adventure. 

The boys and I name the “peaks” 

we climb, a fun way to remember 

a good day, no matter how big or 

small the objective. 

kids resPond the WAy you do 

Freaked out by rain? Your kid will be, 

too. Stoked on getting to wear your 

raincoat and test if the Chariot stroller’s 

cover is really waterproof? Your kid 

will be, too. As you know, children 

watch their parents and friends to learn 

how to react. 

When our older son Max was about 

18 months old, he’d get very nervous 

whenever it was windy. It put quite 

a damper on our outings. My solution: 

bring along a small kite. Now he 

relishes the wind – a steady breeze has 

him doing fist pumps. Last summer we 

shared a splendid afternoon on Sheep 

Mountain, flying a kite at 11,000 feet in 

the Gros Ventre Wilderness outside of 

Jackson. Kite-flying in the high alpine 

is one of life’s under-appreciated joys. 


By age 3, kids are also learning from 

their peers. It can be fun to combine 

forces with another family, especially 

one that provides a good example 

and some healthy peer pressure. I 

make sure to communicate goals 

and establish a plan with other dads 

to maximize success; other times, 

I’ll go with the kids solo, finding it 

nice to have special time just with 

them. 

snAcks 

Having a variety of interesting 

things to eat is a critical element for 

a successful journey. I pack dried 

fruit, pretzels, dried seaweed, nuts, 

granola bars, trail mix, crackers, 

cheese and jerky. In the winter, I 

add a vacuum bottle of hot chocolate. 

The little dudes burn hot and 

fast and bonk hard if you don’t keep 

them eating. Keep their engines 

stoked, and they’ll have more fun. 

We have a few staples in our house 

that the kids only get to eat when 

we’re out in the mountains. Max 

calls them “Dada’s biking snacks,” 

and they’re good 

motivators. 

stArt eArly 

You probably don’t 

need an alpine start 

for the adventures 

you can do with 

children in tow, 

but it helps. Moms 

are right about this 

one: Little ones do 

better in the morning. 

Fewer bonks, 

better energy, 

more enthusiasm 

. 

nAPs 

Every parent handles 

naps differently; 

in fact, this is probably 

the main topic of parenting 

disagreement 

in our family. Luckily, toddlers that 

really need naps are good at getting 

them in a pack or stroller. If your 

destination includes a drive, that’s 

another opportunity. I refuse to be 

taken hostage by nap schedules, but 

I do occasionally suffer the consequences 

of an over-tired little one. 

bonks hAPPen 

It won’t always go well. I’ve been 

five or six miles from the trailhead 

with an unhappy toddler. It’s not 

fun. But it usually works out fine, 

and I try to learn from my mistakes. 

chAriots, PAcks, boAts 

The mode of transport is key. 

A Chariot stroller that can be pulled 

by a bike or skis, or pushed like a 

stroller provides valuable versatility 

in a mountain town. Expensive, yes, 

but necessary, as far as I’m concerned. 

Used ones sell quick, so if you find 

one, buy it. Spare 16-inch and 20-inch 

tubes, a hand pump and tire irons 

should be added to any kit when in 

bike or run mode. A flat tire and no 

way to fix it, far from the car with cry- 

The little dudes burn hot and fast 

and bonk hard if you don’t keep 

them eating. Keep their engines 

stoked, and they’ll have more fun.

ing kids isn’t my idea of fun. On 

the way home, I’ll plan-in a quick 

swim, or a stop to throw rocks or 

visit friends. 

A kid-carrying pack, like the 

Osprey Poco, is also clutch. I’ve 

loaded ours up with binoculars 

and scouted for elk in the high 

country, and wade-fished remote 

creeks with a kid in tow. Sometimes, 

I strap it to the Chariot, 

tow that behind my bike and 

ride to the trailhead. This winter, 

I hauled Max, skis and all, 

up the ski hill, and we skied 

down together. It’s a great 

workout, and Max loves the 

attention. When my exertion 

dictates one-word answers, 

he’s got a captive audience for 

his fanciful tales of deer and 

dragon hunting, and flying over 

mountains in his imaginary friend’s 

spaceship. 

pretty soon max will be carrying will in the osprey poco pack. 

Canoes, drift boats, rafts and open 

kayaks are a great way to travel, as 

well, especially for kids that are 

too big or won’t tolerate a pack or 

Big Sky Life 

Essentials for the Big Sky Lifestyle 

• men’s and women’s clothing 

• shoes 

• furniture 

• bath linens 

• accessories 

The excitement of Audi 

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Chariot; or if they’re too little 

to make much headway walking, 

skiing or biking on their own. 

Throw in a kid’s fishing pole and 

some toys, and strap on a PFD 

and explore the area’s lakes and 

gentler rivers. 

light And right 

For peak ascents and bigger days, 

pack light, but still bring the 

essentials. If your kid isn’t potty 

trained yet, a couple diapers and 

a few wipes are necessary. For 

bigger kids, extra socks and pants 

weigh almost nothing and are 

helpful if they get cold after a 

romp through a creek, a monster 

puddle jump, or a muddy trail. 

A special stuffed animal or lovie 

can also be good for morale. Oh, and 

don’t forget the sunscreen – your 

wife may only buy the windburn 

story once. 

The Market Place Building, 33 Lone Peak Drive, Unit 104 

Big Sky, MT | (406) 995-2240 


91

eXPLOre 

A smAll revieW: 

kids geAr 

By kathy lynch 

1) Princeton Tec bot kids headlamps 

our kids love these headlamps. they have 

three settings (low, bright and blinking), 

making them very much like an “adult” 

headlamp. easily adjustable, they don’t fall 

off, despite the crashing, clanging and banging 

that comes with the territory of having 

two young boys. $15.75 princetontec.com 

2) Darn Tough socks for the whole family 

lifetime guarantee. having owned darn 

toughs over the years, we’ve sent in a half 

dozen pairs that had worn through the 

bottoms. with no questions asked, darn 

tough replaced them. as for the kid-specific 

version, max reports these stay up on 

your calves all day, which other kids’ socks 

tend not to do. $15.95 darntough.com 

3) Osprey Poco Plus Child Carrier 

this pack is amazing. 

from hauling a kid/ski/ 

boot combo up Snow king, 

to hiking in Zion, this pack 

carries a load comfortably. 

the child harness 

is accessible and easy to 

adjust, and the waist belt 

and shoulder-zip pockets 

carry snacks at-the-ready 

for hungry kids. a hydration 

pouch slides into the rear 

luke hikes, will sleeps. 

compartment, and built-in 

tabs keep the drinking tube in place and accessible to the child. the 

pull-up sun-shade works well, and the fleecy covering on top of the 

pack is easy on the boys’ chins and faces when they fall asleep. and 

max loves using the foot stirrups (often referring to luke as his 

horse). $259.00 ospreypacks.com 

4) Patagonia Torrentshell jacket 

as with everything patagonia, we love the 

torrentshell. it does well in the rain at 

home in Jackson, and kept the chill off 

in early mornings and windy afternoons 

on our spring desert trip. we especially 

like the reflective piping on the chest 

and back, which makes it more visible to 

cars at dusk. Zippered hand pockets in 

the front are great for securing snacks or 

gloves, as is the elastic/mesh inside chest 

pocket. fyi, patagonia kids’ products tend 

to run a little large – luckily, this one will fit max for at least another 

year. $99.00 patagonia.com 


1) 

2) 

max is ready for anything 

in Zion, utah. 

5) julbo solan sunglasses 

these shades stay put on max’s face while hiking and biking, unlike 

many kids’ sunglasses. according to max, they’re comfortable on his 

ears, don’t ever hurt his head, and he really likes the blue/gray color 

scheme. $40.00 julbousa.com 

Stunt man max in his Julbo Solan sunglasses.

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to luxury vacation rentals 

Providing premier luxury 

accommodations & guest 

services in Big Sky, Montana 

Stay with us... 

• Enjoy the finest selection of luxury homes, 

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• Ski-in Ski-out access to Moonlight Basin & 

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• Detailed home inspection on weekly basis 

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BOOK YOUR VACATION 

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BEST IN BIG SKY 

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Knowledge. Experience. Results. 

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Call for a comprehensive 

list of all properties 

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Jeff Helms 

M: 406.539.0121 

E: jeff@sothebysrealty.com 

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GuIDe 

“liFe is A dAring Adventure or nothing At All” – helen keller 

By katie morriSon 

the Big Sky pBr: July 31 and august 1 

94 photo Mountain By Jake campoS 


Adventure tours 

HOT AIr bALLOON rIDe 

check out seven mountain ranges from the air 

with wyoming Balloon company -Jackson hole 

wyomingballoon.com 

sCeNIC YeLLOWsTONe PArk AND PADDLe 

See old faithful in the morning and kayak hebgen lake 

in the afternoon with lava lake adventures’ private family 

tour –west yellowstone lavacreekadventures.com 

LLAmA Trek 

let the llamas do 

the heavy lifting on 

a multi-day trek 

through the park’s 

natural wonders, with 

yellowstone Safari 

company. the llamas 

are kid friendly and 

light on the land; they won’t spit on you, but loredo the 

llama may give you a kiss! –Bozeman 

yellowstonesafari.com 

Fly Fishing 

bLue rIbbON FOr CONservATION 

craig and Jackie mathews, owner of Blue ribbon flies, 

are leaders not only in yellowstone region fly-fishing, 

but also in conservation. –west yellowstone 

blue-ribbon-flies.com 

reeL ANGLING 

gallatin river guides owners pat and Brandy Straub 

run their guide shop just feet from the banks of the 

gallatin river (the river where Brad pitt fished in a 

river runs through it). they keep it “reel,” offering 

trips and local tips to all angling levels, including kids. 

–Big Sky montanaflyfishing.com 

COWbOYs AND CuTTHrOATs 

tim wade lives in cody because there are more than 

1,500 miles of water within an hour drive. guides 

working for his outfitter, northfork anglers, pride 

themselves on off-the-beaten-path adventures, 

like fly-fishing pack trips by horseback. – cody 

northforkanglers.com

glAmPing 

rOOseveLT LODGe CAbINs- YNP 

accommodations vary from simple cabins to even more rustic 

versions, located in the northern region of yellowstone park. family 

style western cookouts and lack of internet or television allow you 

to go back in time to true western tradition. -yellowstone national 

park yellowstoneparklodges.com 

PArADe resT GuesT rANCH 

take in yellowstone and the romance of the west with the 

ranch’s horseback riding, fishing and western cookout allinclusive 

package. only 10 minutes from the west entrance, 

this is the closest guest ranch to the park. – west yellowstone 

paraderestranch.com 

YeLLOWsTONe uNDer CANvAs 

luxury safari tents and tipis allow 

you to feel the fresh air and hear 

the sounds of the rocky mountain 

world at night, without sacrificing 

the pleasure of a comfortable 

bed or a bathroom with running 

hot water. this is glamping in its 

truest form. –west yellowstone 

yellowstoneundercanvas.com 

fishing the gallatin river between Big Sky and west yellowstone 

photo By chriS daviS 

WhiteWAter rAFting 

GeYser WHITeWATer 

less than an hour from 

the west entrance, 

choose your adventure 

with geyser, from a 

relaxing, scenic float, 

to heart racing class iv 

rapids on the gallatin 

river. plan to spend extra 

time at the headquarters 

with changing rooms, a 

climbing wall, bike rentals, 

gift shop and photo studio. 

–Big Sky raftmontana. 

com 

WYOmING rIver TrIPs 

follow Buffalo Bill’s path 

through the red rock canyon 

of the Shoshone. depending 

on water levels, kids as young 

as 4 can participate. – cody 

wyomingrivertrips.com 

sANDs WHITeWATer 

Spend two days on the Snake 

river with an overnight 

trip. this 16-mile river trip 

includes grand scenery, 

rapids, a night in tipis, and 

hot dinner and breakfast 

by campfire. – Jackson 

sandswhitewater.com 

bIG skY 

WesT 

YeLLOWsTONe 

IDAHO 

bOZemAN 


GArDINer 

uniQue Adventures 

rodeos 

bIG skY Pbr: 

juLY 31- AuGusT 1 

voted “event of the year,” 

the world class Big Sky 

professional Bull riders event 

brings top bulls, cowboys and 

music for two nights. montana 

native rodeo clown flint 

rasmussen keeps the crowd 

entertained between riders, 

while hell’s Belles and the 

dirty Shame rock the stage 

for free concerts after bulls 

are done bucking. insiders’ 

tip: tickets sell out for the 

bull riding, but the concerts 

are a worthwhile event of 

their own accord. -Big Sky 

explorebigsky.com/bigskypbr 

LIvINGsTON 

Yellowstone 

National Park 

COOke CITY 

TO jACksON 


reD LODGe 

MONTANA 

WYOMING 

CODY 

ZIPLINING 

Zip down lone mountain on four zip lines up to 1,500 feet long and 

150 feet above ground. expect beautiful mountain views as you glide 

through the forest, and the possibility of seeing moose from above. 

–Big Sky bigskyresort.com 

TrAm rIDe 

ride more than 4,000 vertical feet 

in 15 minutes, to the summit of 

rendezvous mountain at Jackson 

hole mountain resort. take in 

the 360-degree views including 

the grand teton and the Snake 

river, then hike around the peak 

checking out wildflowers and 

fossils before heading into corbet’s cabin for waffles. insiders’ tip: 

buy tickets online for the best price. –Jackson jacksonhole.com 

bOILING rIver 

an easy half-mile hike starting at the 45th parallel and crossing 

state lines between montana and wyoming brings you to a natural 

anomaly where a yellowstone hydrothermal feature flows scalding 

water into the frigid gardner river. wear your bathing suit and soak 

in the contrasts. – yellowstone national park nps.gov 

CODY sTAmPeDe 

running since 1919, the 

cody Stampede is a 4th of 

July staple. the rodeo takes 

place July 1-4, with additional 

rodeos running all summer 

long. enjoy a full set of rodeo 

events from bareback broncs 

to steer wrestling and barrel 

racing. -cody 

codystampederodeo.com 

jACksON HOLe rODeO 

Jackson, known for its cowboy 

culture, hosts rodeos all 

summer long. family run for 

three generations, the rodeo 

is a western tradition. 

–Jackson jhrodeo.com 

95

GuIDe 

Culture & Comfort of 

YELLOWSTONE 

GuIDES OF YELLOWSTONE REVITALIzING SPAS 

Guided tours of Yellowstone offer personal, in depth 

knowledge of the wildlife, ecosystem and geology. 

Y Loop Road tRips 

Mindful of the Yellowstone ecosystem, Y Loop 

guides bring a scientific background, as well as 

healthy lunches catered by the Whole Foods 

Trading Company. Initiation points: Cody or Red 

Lodge Ylooproadtrips.com 

GReateR YeLLowstone 

Guides 

Decades of YNP guide experience provide an 

interesting and fun park tour. Optional: have a 

guide accompany you in your vehicle, on your 

schedule. Initiation Points: Bozeman, Big Sky, West 

Yellowstone, Livingston and Gardiner 

greateryellowstoneguides.com 


By katie morriSon 

“To move, to breathe, to fly to float, 

To gain all while you give, 

To roam the roads of lands remote, 

To travel is to live.” 

– Hans Christian Anderson 

After time in the car or out in the elements, spend time taking care of yourself. 

HikeR’s RecoveRY packaGe, HoteL teRRa 

Recover from hiking and camping with an 80-minute massage that incorporates a custom 

hand and foot treatment, plus arnica salve for sore muscles. – Jackson Hole 

hotelterra.com 

Face tHe Mountain, 

MoonLiGHt Basin 

Heal your skin after exposure to sun, wind 

and temperature changes with this facial. 

Ultra gentle marine extracts calm the skin 

and stop reactivity. Family pick – let the 

rest of your family enjoy the onsite pool 

and deck with its cascading waterfall and 

views of Lone Mountain, while you relax 

in the sanctuary and steam room. – Big Sky 

moonlightbasin.com

WESTERN ART GALLERIES 

The Yellowstone region is full of art districts that 

capture the landscapes and culture of the West. 

Jackson 

Walk the town square to discover some of today’s 

most well known western artists. A few of note: 

Legacy Gallery – fine western art including artists 

such as Gary Lynn Roberts and John DeMott 

legacygallery.com 

alta Mira Fine art – A unique collection including 

works from September Vhay and R. Tom Gilleon. 

altamiraart.com 

BiG skY 

New and noteworthy for the region, Big Sky’s 

Town Center has a growing gallery presence. They 

include: 

creighton Block Gallery – an expanding 

collection of fine art from notable artists such 

as Kevin Red Star, Paula Pearl and Gary Carter 

creightonblockgallery.com 

Gallatin River Gallery – Owned by artist Julie 

Gustafson and including a collection of mediums 

from jewelry, paintings, photography and 

sculptures gallatinrivergallery.com 

HISTORIC HOTELS MuSEuMS 

Feel the history of the Old West, sleeping in the same lodges as those 

who traveled here more than a century ago. 

BuFFaLo BiLL’s iRMa HoteL 

Established in 1902, this original hotel gives you a chance to 

experience the Wild West. Watch one of the nightly gun fights out 

front, or stay in Buffalo Bill’s suite. Locals’ tip: Room #13 is rumored 

to be haunted. – Cody irmahotel.com 

oLd FaitHFuL inn 

Built in 1904, the lodge adjacent to Old Faithful is one of the few 

remaining log hotels in the US. Famous for it’s architecture and 

craftsmanship, it is designed with the chaos of nature in mind. 

Plan extra time to check it out, even if you don’t stay the night. 

-Yellowstone National Park yellowstonenationalparklodges.com 

r. tom gilleon “mother moon” oil on canvas 50x50. r. tom gilleon is represented at 

alta mira fine art in Jackson and creighton Block gallery in Big Sky. 

MuseuM oF tHe Rockies 

The museum is home to one of the largest collections of dinosaurs in 

the world, an effort led by archeologist Jack Horner. Additionally, 

it features a state of the art planetarium and children’s Explore 

Yellowstone exhibit, making it a full day of fun for the whole family. 

-Bozeman museumoftherockies.org 

HaYnes pHoto sHop 

Opening this summer, the historic building shows off a trove of 

photo and postcard reproductions to tell the story of Yellowstone’s 

history. The site will also double as an informational resource center 

for Yellowstone Park Foundation. -Yellowstone National Park ypf.org 

historic postcard of angel terrace by frank J haynes 



97


A fresh pie from Ousel & 

Spur Pizza Co., Big Sky 

PhOtO By tOri PintAr 

A smAll ‘tAste’ of some of the greAt 

restAurAnts thAt surround Yellowstone PArk 

North description website Phone Price location 

Bridger Brewing Craft beer, craft pizza bridgerbrewing.com (406) 587-2124 $-$$ Bozeman 

Copper Whiskey Bar & Grill rustic, yet elegant coppermontana.com (406) 404-1700 $$ Bozeman 

John Bozeman’s Bistro 30 years of great steak, seafood, service johnbozemansbistro.com (406) 587-4100 $$-$$$ Bozeman 

the Emerson Grill Award-winning outdoor dining emersongrill.com (406) 586-5247 $$-$$$ Bozeman 

nova Café Voted Best Breakfast in Bozeman thenovacafe.com (406) 587-3973 $-$$ Bozeman 

Starky’s Modern American grill starkysonline.com (406) 556-1111 $$ Bozeman 

2nd Street Bistro Classic French Bistro, locally sourced secondstreetbistro.com (406) 222-9463 $$-$$$ Livingston 

Gil’s Goods Wood fired pizzas, sandwiches, baked goods gilsgoods.com (406) 222-4711 $ Livingston 

Pinkys Café Fun, fresh, homemade food (406) 222-0668 $ Livingston 

yellowstone Valley Lodge riverside farm-to-table dining yellowstonevalleylodge.com (406) 333-4787 $$-$$$ Livingston 

South 

D.O.G. Down on Glen Breakfast burritos, cheesesteaks, smoothies (307) 733-4422 $ Jackson 

roadhouse Brewing Co. Craft beer & comfort food roadhousebrewery.com (307) 739-0700 $$-$$$ Jackson 

Corbets Cabin Waffles atop the tram jacksonhole.com (307) 733-2292 $ Jackson 

teton thai Curry, noodles, yum tetonthai.com (307) 733-0022 $$-$$$ Jackson 

nikai Sushi Asian-inspired cuisine nikaisushi.com (307) 734-6490 $$-$$$ Jackson 

the royal Wolf Burgers, pub food, beer theroyalwolf.com (208) 354-8365 $$ Driggs 

West 

Blue Moon Bakery Pizza, bakery, salads, beer bigskybluemoonbakery.com (406) 995-2305 $ Big Sky 

Bucks t-4 Montana fare buckst4.com (406) 995-4111 $$-$$$ Big Sky 

Choppers Big Sky’s best burger choppersbigsky.com (406) 995-3830 $$ Big Sky 

Corral Montana steakhouse corralbar.com (406) 995-4249 $$-$$$ Big Sky 

Olive B’s Continental cuisine olivebsbigsky.com (406) 995-3355 $$-$$$ Big Sky 

Ousel & Spur Gourmet pizza ouselandspurpizza.com (406) 995-7175 $$ Big Sky 

rainbow ranch Montana fine dining rainbowranchbigsky.com (406) 995-4132 $$$ Big Sky 

Café Madriz Authentic Spanish tapas explorebigsky.com/cafemadriz (406) 646-9425 $-$$ W. yellowstone 

East/Northeast 

Silver Dollar Bar Burgers, roadhouse (307) 527-7666 $$ Cody 

Whole Foods trading Co. healthy, organic local food, grocery & café wholefoodstrading.com (307) 587-3213 $ Cody 

Bear Creek Saloon A must see - food, drink & pig races redlodge.com/bearcreek (406) 446-3481 $$-$$$ Bearcreek 

red Lodge Ales Brewing Co. Sandwiches, salads & microbrews redlodgeales.com (406) 446-4607 $ red Lodge 

Miners Saloon Pizza, beer & mining museum (406) 838-2214 $-$$ Cooke City 

Buns n Beds Deli sandwiches, malts & bbq (406) 838-2030 $$ Cooke City 

Log Cabin Café Wholesome, hearty Western American fare thelogcabincafe.com (406) 838-2125 $$ Silver Gate 

Price per entree: $ = $10 & under $$ = $11-20 $$$ = $20+



99

DEDICATION 


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HIsTOrY 

the hAynes 

LegAcy 

Lives on 

oLd FaiTHFUL PHoTo SHoP HELPS 

PaRK ViSiToRS GiVE bacK 

By maria wyllie 

On January 5, 1887, 13 men embarked from Mammoth on an 

expedition through Yellowstone National Park. Five days in, 

their leader, Arctic explorer Frederick Schwatka, fell ill traveling 

along the Gibbon River from Norris to the Firehole Hotel 

and could go no further. 

While most of the group waited to see if Schwatka would recover, 

the expedition’s photographer, Frank J. Haynes, pressed 

on with a guide and two hearty outdoorsmen hired to handle 

equipment. 

The men used Canadian web snowshoes and 10-foot long, 

four-inch wide Norwegian skis in the deep snow, towing 

toboggans laden with heavy photographic 

equipment and chemicals to develop photos 

in the field. 

Knowing his images would constitute 

the first complete mid-winter portfolio of 

Yellowstone, Haynes was determined to 

photograph the Upper and Lower Geyser 

Basins and Yellowstone Falls. 

After reaching Canyon Hotel on January 

20, where Haynes captured photos of the 

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the 

Lower Falls on fragile, photographic plates, 

he was hungry for more. Haynes decided 

to lead his party northeast along the edge 

of the Grand Canyon so he could photograph 

new winter sites. 

They left Canyon on January 23 and began 

climbing 10,243-foot Mount Washburn. 

After only a few hours, a blinding snowstorm 

obscured all landmarks, trapping 

old faithful geyser, 1913. the haynes 

family published more than 55 million 

ynp postcards from 1900 to 1966. 

these postcards were hand-colored 

and helped shape the perception of 

ynp around the world. npS photo 

frank J. haynes during the 1887 expedition through yellowstone 

national park npS photo 

them for 72 hours. With little food and no extra clothing, they 

almost died. 

Finding a stand of small fir trees, they used their skis to dig a 

snow pit for shelter and built a fire. When the skies cleared 

two days later, they skied roughly 12 miles to Yancey’s Pleasant 

Valley Hotel just north of the Tower- 

Roosevelt junction. 


After resting there for a day, they made the 

trek back to Mammoth on January 27, returning 

with 42 photographs documenting their 

29-day, 200-mile journey. 

This collection of images from the harrowing 

winter journey of 1887 is only part of the 

Haynes legacy. 

Haynes first visited Yellowstone in 1881 

while working as a photographer for the 

Northern Pacific Railroad. Falling in love 

with the park, he returned every summer 

thereafter to photograph its wonders. In 

1884, he secured the first commercial concessions 

in the park, and for the next 84 years, 

his family operated 13 photo shops in the 

park under the name Haynes, Inc. In 1900, 

they began selling “penny postals,” cards 

depicting iconic Yellowstone scenes that cost 

only a penny. 


101

HIsTOrY 

the national park Service preserved the historic old faithful photo Shop and 

in 2011 moved it from its original location at the old faithful auto camp to a 

spot near the old faithful visitor education center. ypf paid to restore the 

interior through a $4 million fundraising campaign. photoS courteSy of ypf 

A new book, The Haynes Family in Yellowstone National Park: 

1881-1968 by Susan and Jack Davis, explains that the postcards 

had a broad impact, introducing Yellowstone’s natural wonders 

and beauty to America – and the rest of the world – during a 

time when few had visited the park. 

It was Frank Haynes’ son Jack who was responsible for the 

postcards’ popularity. He developed the idea of the “Haynes 

100 Series,” a collection of postcards arranged by number that 

followed the “grand loop tour” around the park. 

After assuming ownership of Haynes, Inc. in 1916, Jack 

managed the business until his death in 1962. He earned the 

nickname “Mr. Yellowstone” for his longtime commitment to 

the park – from business to conservation and education. 

“He took a strong interest in preserving its natural wonders 

and quality of its character,” wrote the Davises. 

The National Park Service, through a partnership with the 

Yellowstone Park Foundation, has restored one of the Haynes’ 

operations, the Old Faithful Photo Shop, and is opening it to 


visitors starting this summer. Originally built by Jack in 1927, 

the restored structure, known as the Old Faithful Haynes 

Photo Gallery, is now LEED-certified. Its mission is twofold: 

honoring the Haynes family and helping fundraise for the 

park. 

A modern, interactive exhibit offers an interpretive history, 

telling the Haynes’ story and the role photography played in 

establishing the park and promoting tourism there. 

Another informs visitors about YPF, the park’s official fundraising 

partner since 1995. Although the foundation has raised 

more than $70 million for the park it has never had a facility 

there. In this exhibit, whimsical 19th century aesthetics 

juxtapose 21st century technology to explain YPF’s strategic 

initiatives heard through vintage phone receivers and seen on 

modern video screens. 

Yellowstone National Park Deputy Superintendent Steve 

Iobst, who oversaw the restoration, says the shop’s proximity 

to the Old Faithful Inn should help YPF reach a captive audience. 

By mixing technology with a vintage look and feel, the space 

invites tourists to step back in time and imagine Yellowstone 

in the early 1900s. The welcome desk is a Haynes original, 

and reproductions of Frank Haynes’ photography equipment 

are displayed alongside antique souvenirs, such as the Haynes 

Guides, which were the first Yellowstone guidebooks to use 

photographs. 

A digital darkroom allows guests to upload their Yellowstone 

photos in real time, email them or temporarily become part of 

the exhibit by displaying their photos on the electronic entry 

wall. 

Whether visitors have their picture taken in the Haynes photo 

op, which uses a vintage postcard image for the background, or 

watch Old Faithful erupt through vintage cameras, they will 

play a role in both preserving and continuing the park’s photographic 

history – one that was nearly buried on the steeps of 

Mt. Washburn 126 years ago. 

Find more about the Old Faithful Haynes Photo Gallery at ypf.org. 

more information on the haynes family: 

“at the greatest personal peril to the photographer,” 

by william lang, montana: the magazine of 

western history, 1983 winter edition. 

the haynes family in yellowstone national park: 

1881-1968, by Susan and Jack davis, 2013.

Creighton Block 

 

Kevin Red Star “Buffalo Tipi,” Acrylic on Canvas, 48x60 

EVERY THURSDAY AT 4:30 PM 

Artwork also displayed at Outlaw Partners, Bozeman Audi Big Sky 

Showroom, Lone Mountain Ranch and Rainbow Ranch 

provided by 

BIG SKY’S MOST EXTENSIVE 

FINE ART COLLECTION 

11:00 AM - 7:00 PM // TUESDAY THRU SUNDAY 

MONDAYS BY APPOINTMENT 

Please visit the gallery to view our extensive collection 

of fine works of art in the Main Gallery, the Charsam 

Room, and the new Private Collection. 

LOCATED IN THE BIG SKY TOWN CENTER ON THE CORNER OF LONE PEAK DRIVE 

CREIGHTONBLOCKGALLERY.COM explorebigsky.com 

| (406) 993-9400 Mountain 

103

ADveNTure 

ruN To THE HILLs 

By marcie hahn-knoff 

It began as a conversation between friends 

traveling far from home. 

Their idea was to bring a world-class mountain 

running event to Montana, a challenging 

race that would attract an international 

field of competitors and act as an avenue to 

show off the beauty and wildness of their 

home state. 

And so began Mike Foote and Mike Wolfe’s 

journey to the start line of the newest ultra 

marathon mountain run in Montana – The 

Rut 50K. 

Wolfe and Foote, or the ‘Mikes’ as 

they’re affectionately called, are 

accomplished ultra-runners both 

sponsored by The North Face and 

both residents of Missoula. The 

men have traveled the world for 

50- and 100-mile ultramarathons, 

pushing and supporting each other 

along the way. 

Now, they will serve as co-directors 

for The Rut, a 50-kilometer mountain 

race set for September 2013 in 

Big Sky. 

“The idea had been getting tossed 

around for years – it became a matter 

of finding the right venue,” said 

Foote, 29, a former ski patroller at 

Moonlight Basin. “Holding a race 

of this distance and caliber… can be 


mike wolfe and mike foote scouting the course for the rut on lone mountain. photo By nick wolcott 

difficult when dealing with different 

government agencies and permitting.” 

Foote, who works as race director for 

a specialty running shop in Missoula, 

Runner’s Edge, began researching 

venue options in late 2011. Though 

The Rut is the brainchild of Foote and 

Wolfe, when owner Anders Booker 

offered to add the event to the shop’s 

organized races for the year, the idea 

began to grow legs. 

The Mikes had a feeling that Big Sky 

would be a perfect location, and when 

they scouted their potential racecourse 

on Lone Mountain for the first 

time in July 2012, they were sold. 

Soon after, they approached Lyndsey 

Owens, Director of Marketing at Big 

Sky Resort and an avid mountain runner 

herself. 

“When they brought me the idea, 

I said, ‘Yes! Let’s figure out how to 

make this happen,’” Owens said. 

“This is the kind of event that enlivens 

the town. It is a win-win for 

everyone.” 

After several days of scouting and 

mapping the course, the Mikes decided 

to hold the race in September, 

when the weather is cooler and generally 

stable. 

“As it happens, this is also the time of 

year that the elk are in rut – thus the 

inspiration for the name,” said Foote, 

explaining that the rut is another 

word name for elk mating season, the



105

COurse mAP 

time of year when bulls bugle to show 

dominance. 

Wolfe, 35, who grew up hunting in the 

mountains around Bozeman and Big Sky, 

remembers old timers sharing stories 

about fall elk camp near the foot of Lone 

Mountain. While running there last fall, 

he saw elk sign everywhere. 

“There is magic to the elk rut,” Wolfe 

said. “It’s like having front row seats to 

something pre-historic, a view into the 

heart of the wild. We want the race to 

have that same raw, exciting and passionate 

feel.” 

The race starts and ends at Big Sky 

Mountain Village (elevation 7,510 feet), 

gaining and losing 8,000 feet over its entirety, 

and working its way up and down 

11,166-foot Lone Mountain, 8,850-foot 

Andesite, and traversing through the 

neighboring Moonlight Basin property. 

It follows single-track trails through 

Ultramarathon 24 

4 

32 

16 


12 

20 

whitebark pine forests and along exposed 

ridgelines, pounding up dirt double-track 

roads and scrambling through challenging 

off trail sections. 

There will also be a 12-kilometer course. 

Both will be capped at 200 participants. 

“We designed the Rut 50K to be as 

technical and challenging as [what] you 

would experience on a mountain course in 

Europe,” Wolfe says. “We have mountains 

in Montana that rival any others in the 

world.” 

More at runtherut.com 

Writer Marcie Hahn-Knoff, who has 

twice run the 19.7-mile Bridger Ridge 

Run, works as a broker with Winter and 

Company Real Estate. She wrote about 

Big Sky’s skiing pioneers for the 2012- 

2013 winter issue in “under the spell of 

Lone Mountain: 40 years down the road.” 

8 

28 

36 40 

= mILe mArker 

WATCHING THe ACTION 

Spectators can view the start 

and finish of the race from the 

Big Sky mountain village, and 

also access the summit of lone 

mountain to cheer on their favorite 

racers via lone peak tram 

expedition. 

48 

44 

WHAT Is AN uLTrAmArATHON? 

Set mostly in the mountains, ultramarathons 

are 50 kilometers 

(31 miles) or more, compared to 

a road marathon at 26.2 miles. 

unlike many mountain sports, 

trail running is accessible to 

almost anyone, says Sarah 

(evans) mccloskey, a utahbased 

ultra runner with a clutch 

of impressive finishes. 

“all shapes and sizes of people 

compete in trail running,” she 

says, noting that walking is ok, 

especially on uphills. “if you 

need to, take a break and just 

enjoy where you are.” 

training is key, mccloskey says, 

but you don’t need to run 30 

miles a day. 

“mixing up your mileage and 

shooting for about 40 miles a 

week is a good goal… running 

an ultramarathon is pretty 

much a mental game. you just 

have to keep going.”

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HeALTH 

cafe madriz in west yellowstone 

serves authentic Spanish 

cuisine including many glutenfree 

options. pictured here: tortilla 

española, a classic Spanish 

potato, onion and egg omelet. 

photo By the outlaw partnerS 

By aShley allan 

What is gluten? 

Gluten is the group of proteins found in 

barley, oats, rye and wheat that give flour 

its stickiness. Prevalent in the American 

diet, it can be found in foods prepared with 

these sources, as well as in prescription 

medications and food additives. 

As an additive, it’s used to boost protein 

levels, and create a light, chewy texture. 

Other grains containing gluten include 

spelt, kamut, triticale, farro and einkorn. 

While oats don’t contain gluten, they’re 

often cross-contaminated and generally 

contain it unless labeled otherwise. 

Why is gluten becoming an issue? 

Gluten has been part of the human diet for 

10,000 years, since humans first began cultivating 

crops. Before that time, we didn’t 

survive on agriculture – rather a hunter/ 

gatherer diet with fewer grains and cereals. 

Gluten intolerance is becoming increasingly 

common, and Celiac disease, an autoimmune 

disorder caused by an immunologic 

intolerance to gluten, affects 3 million 

Americans. 

“Changes in farming and dietary practices, 

excessive pharmaceutical use, globalization 

and the effects of our modern lifestyle all 

play a role,” says Dr. Holcomb John- 


FacT oR Fad? 

“The food you eat can 

be either the safest 

and most powerful 

form of medicine, or 

the slowest form 

of poison.” 

– ann Wigmore 

ston, a naturopathic doctor and owner of 

Sweetgrass Natural Medicine in Bozeman. 

A study published in 2011 in BioMed 

Central Medicine attributes the rise in 

gluten intolerance to humans’ lack of the 

proper genes to digest it. The study also 

examines the possibility that modern 

wheat may in fact be more toxic than its 

ancestors. 

“The selection of wheat varieties with 

higher gluten content has been a continuous 

process during the last 10,000 

years,” it reports, noting that wheats 

grown before the Middle Ages contained 

smaller amounts of the “highly toxic 33mer 

gluten peptide.” A molecule of approximately 

50 amino acids, this peptide 

is responsible for initiating the inflammatory 

response to gluten in people with 

Celiac disease, according to the study. 

This stronger form has been labeled as 

“super-gluten” by many health professionals 

and is responsible for the lighter, 

fluffier bread products that many people 

have come to expect from these foods. 

Adding to the issues, Johnston says, our 

culture’s growing reliance on antibiotics 

and disinfectants can cause a decline in 

the antibodies needed to fight off invaders, 

“which is how the body sees gluten.”

HeALTH 

Why do some people seem to be affected 

while others are not? 

Genes can contribute to gluten intolerance 

and Celiac disease, but people aren’t necessarily 

born with it. Environmental factors 

can trigger it, as well. 

“Genes are turned on and off by environment,” 

Johnston says. “Just because you 

have the gene for something, doesn’t always 

mean you are going to get that something. 

What we bathe our cells, and essentially 

[our] DNA in, will greatly affect the messages 

sent throughout our body.” And we 

bathe our cells in what we eat. 

Stress, Johnston says, which affects nearly 

everyone, directly impacts our digestion. 

We don’t allow our system adequate time 

to ‘rest and digest’ and often rush through 

meals due to time constraints. Similarly, 

stress affects anti-inflammatory and inflammatory 

pathways, which can lead to an 

increase in allergic or allergic-type reactions 

– like gluten intolerance. 

symptoms of gluten intolerance 

Gas, bloating, constipation, diarrhea, abdominal 

pain, weight gain (or loss), fatigue, 

headaches, depression, lack of mental clarity, 

irritability and skin rashes are common 

signs of gluten intolerance. 

In Celiac disease, the small intestine cannot 

digest or absorb food due to sensitivity of 

the intestinal lining to gliadin, a protein in 

gluten; this causes the digestive and absorptive 

cells of the intestine to atrophy. 

Recent studies have shown gluten to be associated 

with other disorders including type 

1 diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, osteoporosis, 

irritable bowel syndrome, Hashimoto’s, 

Addison’s disease, multiple sclerosis, cancer 

and other autoimmune diseases. 

Dr. Mark Hyman, MD, is a family practice 

physician and creator of a whole body 

approach to health known as “Functional 

Medicine.” An advocate for a gluten-free 

diet, Hyman refers to gluten as a “silent 

killer.” 

In “Gluten: What you don’t know might 

kill you,” an article published in 2011 on 

his website, Hyman maintains that while 99 

percent of sick people don’t relate their illness 

to ingesting gluten, at least 55 diseases 

are caused by gluten. Gluten intolerance 

causes inflammation, he says, which in turn 

leads to disease in the body. 

How does gluten make you feel? 

Gluten-free diets have surged in popularity, 

in part as a response to our inability to digest 

this new form of gluten. 

One way to learn how your body reacts to 

gluten is by eliminating it from your diet 

for 2-4 weeks and seeing how you feel when 

you introduce it back into your diet. 

INGreDIeNTs YOu mAY NOT 

reALIZe CONTAIN GLuTeN 

if you’re trying to avoid gluten, it’s important to 

read food labels. watch out for ingredients like 

natural flavor, monosodium glutamate (mSg), 

caramel coloring, emulsifiers, malt, hydrolyzed 

(vegetable or wheat) protein, cereal, 

binder, couscous, durum, semolina, seitan and 

modified food starch. 

ALTerNATIves 

wheat alternatives include quinoa, millet, 

amaranth, buckwheat, rice, corn, sorghum, 

teff, kasha, garbanzo and coconut flour. it’s 

best to rotate the foods you eat: anything you 

consume on a regular basis could potentially 

turn into an allergy. try new things; eat a rainbow 

of colors at every meal and always listen 

to your body. 

mOre INFOrmATION 

gluten.net, celiac.com 

No gluten = no bread? No way. 

not to worry, bread lovers, there is life after death on the gluten-free 

path, thanks to Boulder, colorado-based rudi’s Bakery. Since 1976, 

rudi’s has mastered the art of gluten-free baking, using wholesome all 

natural and organic ingredients including sunflower seeds, millet, fiber 

and flax. other products include tortillas, pizza crusts and buns. 

rudisbakery.com/gluten-free 



photo By aShley allan 

GLuTeN-Free reCIPe: 

socca bread 

Ingredients: 

1c garbanzo bean (chickpea) flour 

1c water 

1 t olive oil (optional) 

1 t salt 

dried herbs of choice – cumin, 

basil, coriander and rosemary are 

some savory choices; cinnamon is 

great if you want a sweeter taste. 

Directions: combine all ingredients 

in a bowl and whisk together. 

let sit for at least an hour at room 

temperature. the longer you let 

it sit, the better the consistency 

will be. 

preheat oven to 400 degrees. line 

a 9-10-inch round baking pan with 

parchment paper (alternately, 

you can coat bottom of pan with 

coconut oil to prevent sticking). 

pour batter into pan and cook 

for 35-40 minutes until crust is 

cooked through (use a toothpick 

to test the inside; if batter sticks, 

keep cooking). the top should be 

golden or dark brown. 

serving: eat as is; use as bread 

for sandwiches; or substitute 

for crackers or pizza crust. try it 

topped with avocado and fresh basil 

and cilantro; add maple syrup/ 

honey, cinnamon and fresh fruit; or 

try adding chocolate chips to make 

a cookie dough. the possibilities 

are endless – enjoy! 

this recipe and others can be 

found at ashleyhealthcoach.com. 

109


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Ossorio

CuLTure 

Bud break on naches heights 

ArT FrOm eArTH 

waShington winerieS Bottling perfection 

By kurt erickSon 

I zip open my tent and step into the crisp 

April morning. My breath dissipates 

skyward as the sun rises over the andesite 

ridgeline that makes the Naches Heights of 

Washington famous among geologists and 

unique to winegrowers. 

My campsite sits atop the climbing 

bluffs at Wilridge Vineyard, 

which are rigged with anchors 

for top roping the ancient lava 

that plunged from the Goat 

Rocks near Mount Rainier 

millions of years ago. 

Stepping to the edge, I 

peer into the shadows 

of Cowiche Canyon. 

I long 


to rappel down like I have the previous 

two days, but my sense of timing says no. 

Today may be the only chance to capture a 

magical moment in the vineyards behind me. 

The vines have waited months for the sun to 

beckon their florets open and drink in the light. 

Each blossom holds the potential to produce one 

luscious grape and with it the dreams of men who 

devote their lives to crafting wine from juice, art 

from Earth. 

I dash to the tent, grab my camera and take my 

position among the vines. The only sound to be 

heard, as the clusters open wide, is the snap of the 

camera’s shutter. 

The sound shocks me back to the present, to Pike 

Place Market in Seattle.

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113

CuLTure 

I was caught in a flashback to a trip I 

took last week. Since returning from 

Afghanistan, profound images seem 

burned upon my retina – some ugly, 

others beautiful – and they often reappear 

as flashbacks. I calm my nerves 

and smile, remembering last week’s 

vineyard in bloom. 

Camera in hand, I meander past 

fishmongers laden with the morning 

catch, past bushels of produce shining 

in the sun. A street performer plucks 

his banjo, and the scent of coffee and 

fresh pastries wafts through the air. I 

step between bouquets of multicolored 

tulips and watch a cheesemaker 

in her apron separating the curd. 

I cross the street, then pause to 

watch ferries on Elliott Bay moving 

through the morning mist. Passing 

Kell’s, a little Irish pub still closed 

after last night’s revelry, I turn onto 

the cobblestones of Post Alley and 

stop outside the wooden doors of The 

Tasting Room Seattle. 

A cooperative venture in the heart 

of this world-class market, the tasting 

room showcases more than 60 Washington 

wines of exceptional quality, 

from craftsmen who are changing their 


the vineS have waited monthS for the Sun to 

Beckon their floretS open and drink the light. 

industry. Among them: a pioneer, a 

visionary, a newcomer and a rebel. 

Here, in this microcosm of the Pacific 

Northwest, their stories and craft mingle 

with a grape’s potential, culminating 

in bottled perfection. 

The Pioneer: 

Paul beveridge 

Wilridge Winery and The 

Tasting Room Seattle 

wilridge vineyard and tasting room sits 

next to an extensive network of hiking and 

mountain biking trails. 

A tireless winemaker, entrepreneur 

and practicing attorney in 

“Beveridge Law,” as he calls it, Paul 

Beveridge is the pioneering force 

behind The Tasting Room Seattle 

and Wilridge Winery. Over the 

past 25 years, Beveridge has led 

a number of efforts to open the 

marketplace to small wineries and 

make the industry more energy 

efficient. 

“It’s sad commentary on the state 

of our laws that my legal training 

has been so important to the success 

of our winery,” he said. 

Beveridge aims to make Wilridge 

the “greenest winery in 

the Northwest” with refillable 

bottles, biodynamic farming and 

by utilizing solar power at the 

Naches Heights vineyard near 

Yakima. With climbing bluffs on 

the grounds, as well as campsites, 

hiking, biking and horseback 

riding trails, fire pits, barbecues 

and an outdoor sauna, Wilridge 

appeals to a different type of wine 

enthusiast. 

Beveridge’s true calling, however, 

is winemaking: From his Pinot 

Grigio and Viognier whites, to 

his stunning Nebbiolo and Red 

Mountain Mélange, the wines 

exhibit excellent balance and 

acidity, showcasing the ripeness 

and abundance of fruit character 

indicative of Washington terroir. 

l: wilridge is an outdoor destination for the whole family. r: the tasting room Seattle, in pike place market, offers more than 60 washington wines.

The visionary: 

Don Corson 

camaraderie cellars 

camaraderie cellars offers more than just 

delicious wines. 

Geographer Don Corson, Ph.D, 

opened Camaraderie Cellars near the 

Port Angeles entrance to Olympic 

National Park, which draws more 

than three million visitors annually 

to the peninsula west of Seattle. 

Corson and his wife Vicki knew 

that even in the Olympic Peninsula’s 

wet climate, “People in this part 

of the country view recreation more 

for re-creation,” he said. “When 

they visit us, they are looking for an 

authentic Northwest experience.” 

Corson’s vision began in the early 

1980s, as he built relationships 

Sunrise to sunset at wilridge vineyard in yakima, washington 

with Washington grape growers 

like Fred Artz of the Red Mountain 

American Viticultural Area and 

Paul Champoux from the Rattlesnake 

Hills AVA, both of whom are now 

world-renowned for their quality vineyards 

and have been mainstay vineyard 

partners with Camaraderie since its 

doors opened in the early 1990s. 

“Paul [Beveridge] and I were here at 

the beginning,” Corson said, noting 

that they were among the first 50 

bonded wineries in the state, which 

now has more than 750. 

“Washington grape growing is like a 

constellation that continues to add 

stars.” Washington, with its wide 

range of microclimates and long 

growing season, can ripen nearly 

every grape varietal. 

The rich layering of the Camaraderie 

Bordeaux-style blends is without 

equal. My personal favorite, 

called Grâce, allowed the cellar to 

spread its wings, and the wines are 

now sold in restaurants like Bobby 

Flay’s in Manhattan, Oenophilia 

in Chicago, and nationwide at the 

retailer Total Wine and More. 


The Newcomer: 

Timothy Narby 

nota bene cellars 

nota Bene cellars blends a love of aircraft 

and wine craft. 

The newest additions to The Tasting 

Room Seattle’s repertoire include the 

exceptional wines of Timothy Narby, 

winemaker and owner of Nota Bene 

Cellars. 

Although he may be the new kid in 

Post Alley, Narby, who specializes 

in reds, has been crafting award-winning 

wines since 2001. 

“We’re all red, all the time!” he said. 

A long-time Boeing engineer, Narby’s 

winemaking experience comes largely 

from his time with the Boeing Wine 

Club. This group’s passion for both 

aircraft and wine craft has propelled 

several in their ranks to open wineries. 

Nota Bene Cellars is located in South 

Seattle not far from Boeing Field; 

however it sources extraordinary 

fruit from places like the Ciel du 

Cheval vineyard on Red Mountain 

and the Dineen vineyard in Yakima 

Valley. 


115

CuLTure 

The rebel: 

john bell 

Willis Hall Winery 

John Bell, owner of willis hall winery, and 

the author at the tasting room Seattle 

Many in the wine industry view John 

Bell as a rebel. He embraces the title. 

“It irritates me when people stand 

between me and my freedom,” says 

WASHINGTON 


WHERE THE oUTdooR adVEnTURER 

MEETS THE WinE EnTHUSiaST 

the outspoken and passionate owner 

of Willis Hall Winery in Marysville, 

Washington. 

This rebel has a cause, and in addition, 

staggering winemaking talent. 

His mouth-watering Syrah explodes 

with rich, dark berry character and 

lingers on the palette with loads of 

spice and vanilla. 

Together with pioneer Paul Beveridge, 

Bell became a key member 

of Family Wineries of Washington 

State, a group that represents the 

interests of small wineries, which are 

often overwhelmed by the legislation 

surrounding the industry. 

These combined efforts against the 

“Department of No!” as John calls it, 

have led the Washington State Liquor 

Control Board to re-examine its views 

on many issues, including cooperative 

tasting rooms like The Tasting 

Room Seattle. 

“We needed to band together, 

otherwise we would never survive,” 

Bell said. “It’s a very collegial 

atmosphere amongst the little guys. 

If my pump broke down during bottling, 

for instance, I would have 10 

winemakers offering to bring their 

pumps over in an hour.” 

Kurt Erickson is an experienced 

winemaker and wine professional 

who most recently served as a sniper 

team leader in the uS Army. He 

returned from a deployment to 

Afghanistan in January 2013 and 

now makes his home in western 

Washington. 

people in thiS part 

of the country view 

recreation more 

for re-creation. 

Don Corson, Owner of 

Camaraderie Cellars 

““

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117

ArTIsAN 

sHeLLY BeRMont 

Custom Jewelry 

Shelly Bermont in her Big Sky studio. photo By kelSey dZintarS 


Shelly Bermont kneels on the floor of her jewelry studio 

in Big Sky, Montana, sifting through a drawer of turquoise. 

“I love natural stones, the fact that I can take these beautiful 

things in nature and create something you can wear 

and enjoy,” she says. “When I can’t figure out what to 

do, I just open up these drawers.” 

Her turquoise, Sleeping Beauty, is a gem-quality stone 

sourced mostly in Arizona, known for its pure, sky-blue 

color. The drawers are organized by stone type, value and 


size. In another, South Sea and Tahitian pearls tumble 

together. 

“There is a 2,000-mile stretch of sea around Tahiti where 

mollusks grow and produce Tahitian pearls,” Bermont 

says, lifting a strand. The jeweler is known for her work 

with these pearls, their colors ranging from light silver to 

black, green and some that are almost purple. 

Bermont, 60, earned a degree in fine art from the University 

of North Florida and has studied gold-smithing 

in Montana, California and Arizona. She designs the 

pearl line for Underwood, a renowned luxury jeweler in 

Florida, as well as custom pieces for clients, and her own

signature line featuring raw diamonds, large pearls, 

and 18 and 22 carat gold. 

“I love melting gold,” Bermont says. “Once I started 

forming metal, that gave me the ability to do whatever 

I want.” 

The former print model and flight attendant splits 

her time between Los Angeles and Big Sky. In what 

she calls her previous life – in Miami, punctuated by 

black tie events – big, formal jewelry was the norm. 

But eventually, she found that unsatisfying. 

“I thought it was a shame to have beautiful stuff 

that just sits in the bank. I wanted to be able to wear 

it during the daytime, with my jeans, and not look 

ostentatious.” 

So she started taking it apart, redesigning her own 

jewelry and her girlfriends’, setting the stones in 

more casual arrangements. 

“A lot of things come in and go out of style,” 

Bermont says. “I think jewelry shouldn’t be one of 

those.” 

Beth Stein, a Nashville, Tennessee resident who summers 

in Big Sky, has a custom necklace by Bermont that was 

a gift from her husband. It’s a leather lariat with a gold, 

hand-hammered snake wrapped around it, big pearls 

hanging from each end and a second snake as the clasp. 

“There’s something almost sinister about it,” Stein said. “I 

get more comments on that piece of jewelry than anything 

I’ve ever had, because it’s so unusual. It’s very understated, 

but it’s magnificent.” 

Colleen Williams, a news anchor for NBC Los Angeles and a 

Big Sky homeowner, loves Bermont’s work. 

“She has the best pearls I’ve ever seen. They’re such spectacular 

pieces in their simplicity. In fact, one of my favorites I 

actually bought right off of her. It’s a mixture you wouldn’t 

expect – leather and pearls.” 

Williams’ lariat has a large pearl drop she can wear long or 

double over short. 

“It’s been to Europe, it’s in my wardrobe in LA, and I certainly 

wear it when I come to Big Sky… It’s sturdy, versatile and 

elegant… I trust her taste.” 

Jewelry, Bermont says, is personal – not one-size-fits-all. 

“I look at the person’s lifestyle, coloring, bone structure and 

what they wear. You want something flattering for you… 

[something] classic that you’ll wear forever.” 

Bermont sells her work at wholesale in Montana. Call her for a 

private appointment – (406) 548-4477, or find her at 

shellybermont.com. 

Shelly Bermont’s necklace and earrings made with Sleeping Beauty turquoise. 

photo By Jake campoS 

left: Bermont is known for her work with tahitian pearls. their colors range 

from light silver to black, green and some that are almost purple. 

outlaw partnerS photo 



119

FeATureD OuTLAW 

buCkskIN bILL 

THE EccEnTRic MoUnTain Man 

By megan paulSon 

On the banks of the Salmon River, 52 miles into Idaho’s Frank 

Church River of No Return Wilderness, lived a man so captivating 

that Sports Illustrated published a 6,000-word feature 

on him in 1966. 

“On the River of No Return, in the country named Light on 

the Mountains, there lives a gray-bearded man who has turned 

back time,” wrote Harold Peterson. “At Five Mile Bar, beyond 

which no human soul dwells, Jedediah Smith and Christopher 

Carson have but recently passed by, and the year is 1844 

forever.” 

Born Sylvan Hart in Oklahoma Territory in 1906, Buckskin 

was a mountain man at heart and in his craft: resourceful, 

independent and artistic. From ornate carvings on hand-made 

knives and guns bored with a homemade machine, to mining 

and smelting copper and creating tools and utensils, he had a 

knack for living off the land. 

Buckskin built a stone watchtower on the hillside above his cabin, 

defending the homestead from government acquisition and u.S. forest 

Service enforcement. inset: view of the main Salmon river from 

the watchtower. photoS By megan paulSon 


illuStration By kelSey dZintarS 

Buckskin spent more than 40 years living on his 

Salmon River homestead, fishing, hunting wild elk 

and bear, mining gold and copper, making wine from 

local fruit, and cultivating an elaborate 10,000-squarefoot 

garden. 

Those who met Buckskin on the river knew him as an 

odd and humorous man. The rangers who frequented 

the Salmon gave him his nickname, after the handmade 

deer hide clothing he wore with the hair on the 

inside, next to his skin. Rumor has it, the smell from 

the tanned skin clothing was quite rank, justifying the 

alias “Buckskin Bill.” 

The oldest of six children, Buckskin was averse to 

civilization even as a boy. He left Oklahoma during 

the Great Depression to work in the Texas oilfields, 

then earned an English degree at the University of 

Oklahoma and began a master's program in petroleum 

engineering, but never finished.

In 1932, at age 26, he traveled with his father to Five Mile 

Bar on the Salmon River from McCall, Idaho, which required 

a two-and-a-half hour drive to the old mining town 

of Warren, then a 14-hour hike over 20 miles of rugged 

trail. They bought 50 acres of land for $1 and lived there a 

number of years before the elder Hart left, seeking a connection 

to society. 

During World War II, Buckskin tried to enlist in the Army, 

but medical exams found an enlarged heart, so he worked 

instead as a civilian at the Boeing factory in Kansas. Returning 

to Five Mile Bar not long after, he settled for good on 

the banks of the Salmon. 

When a conservation movement led by Howard Zahniser 

in 1956 tried to designate the area surrounding the 

homestead a Primitive Area, precluding human habitation, 

Buckskin built a stone watchtower on the hillside above 

his cabin to defend against government acquisition and 

U.S. Forest Service enforcement. 

While much of the land became designated Wilderness in 

the Wilderness Act of 1964, the feds left Buckskin alone, 

and he lived at the outpost until his death in 1980. 

To this day, the watchtower and the compound’s hand-hewn 

log cabins, root cellar and underground bomb shelter remain 

intact, maintained as a museum for floaters on the Salmon 

River. Visiting the mountain man’s home today, one can sense 

Buckskin’s presence and understand the pride he must have 

felt living in this remote and beautiful place. 

vIsIT buCkskIN bILL 

Buckskin’s compound 

at five mile Bar is a 

must-stop while rafting 

the main Salmon river, 

idaho. visitors can see 

the homestead of 40 

years, outbuildings, 

gardens and many of 

his hand-made tools 

and equipment. 

TIPs: 

grab a Black Butte porter ice cream float from the gift 

shop. 

watch the 1963 aBc wide world of Sports video at the museum 

to see Buckskin Bill shoot his handmade, 3-gauge 

rifle and ammunition. it literally knocks him off his seat. 

Jot down Buckskin’s famous sourdough starter mix from 

his hand-written recipe in the old cabin. Buckskin recommends 

fresh huckleberries for the topping. 

above: Buckskin’s collection of hand-made tools 

Below: Just a few of Buckskin Bill’s animal skulls 

Big Sky, Montana 

Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner 

Drink • Dine • Den 

5 miles South of Big Sky - HWY 191, Mile Marker 43 

menu online - www.corralbar.com - 406-995-4249

FeATureD OuTLAW 

Buckskin Bill spent more than 40 

years living on his Salmon river 

homestead, fishing, hunting wild elk 

and bear, mining gold and copper, 

making wine from local fruit, and cultivating 

an elaborate 10,000-squarefoot 

garden. 

photo By Buddy mayS 


W E U ndERSTAnd 

THE ALLURE OF THE ROCKIES 

“It was nearing dusk 

and time for the horses to be brought in for the night. I circled around the pasture calling 

for them to herd up and head toward the corrals. As they began to gather, the sheer rock 

face framed them from behind, until they began to run. I caught stride behind them, 

the sky in front was purple, the mountain peaks so jagged and the freshly cut hay field 

stretched for half a mile ahead; their hooves pounding in the silence. 

I was overwhelmed by freedom…” 

At stoa Management, we understand 

why our clients are compelled to build a 

life in the Rocky Mountains. We listen, 

we ask questions, and we develop a 

management team that is customized to 

fit our client’s specific needs. 


AustI n RectoR 

President of Stoa Management 

Notes from Wyoming, 2009 

StoaManagement.com | Austin@StoaManagement.com | PO Box 10563 • Bozeman, MT 59719 

mt: 406.579.4914 | wy: 307.622.1533 | co: 303.872.8493 


Providing owner’s representation 

that combines diligent 

problem solving and solution 

based management of complex, 

multi-faceted construction 

and development projects. 

123


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Mountain - Explore Big Sky

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