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Keeping Classics Alive... - A40 Farina Club

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First note how the yard stores tyres. The best conditions are either purpose-built racking or<br />

in a neat pile, ideally in a darkened shed. Beware of a tyre still in situ on a car in the yard.<br />

How was the car dragged there, and what might it have picked up on the way? Do not buy<br />

it. Beware tyres that have been removed from the rim - few owners have the facilities to<br />

do this, so why was it taken off? Unless of course the yard has done it for an internal<br />

check.<br />

Check the tread - do not buy anything with less than 3mm left (remember the legal<br />

minimum tread depth is now 1.6mm). Reject a tyre with any uneven wear - check the<br />

depth across the whole width and all round the circumference. Look for sections of tread<br />

that are lifting from the canvas - this results from impact damage or the tyre picking up<br />

something that then becomes embedded. This can happen on both new and remould<br />

tyres. Examine the walls for cracks or scuffing - check all around and on both sides - the<br />

inner wall is usually not as often inspected in service as the outer. Glance at the rim also.<br />

If it is damaged the tyre probably is also, even if it looks OK. Reject any tyres with faults or<br />

anything else that looks suspicious - would you feel safe at your car's maximum cruising<br />

speed on it? New-looking balance weights are a good sign - someone has been careful.<br />

Whenever possible fit matching pairs or even matching sets, or at least try to find<br />

something with a tread pattern that matches its opposite number on the other side of the<br />

axle. It is illegal to mix sizes on an axle, and it is worth repeating too, that tyres of different<br />

construction must never ever be mixed at all on the same axle (preferably not on the car).<br />

This is not just illegal but lethal. You can have crossplys on the front and radials on the<br />

back but not the other way around. It is also illegal to fit different tyre widths on the same<br />

axle. You can usually go up one size all the way round or fit slightly larger tyres on the<br />

back to improve traction - provided the tyre does not rub anywhere, especially on the front<br />

wheels at full lock.<br />

Light units: Most head lamps have three terminals; one for dipped beam, one for main<br />

and one for earth that's common to both. Therefore there are only three ways that two<br />

leads (from a power source) can be connected, and two of them should result in the lamp<br />

working. No battery available? Use the one on the car you drove down in. Check also that<br />

the lamp is water tight, look for ingress around the edges, and rust affecting the reflector.<br />

A non-working or damaged sealed beam unit is scrap but bulb type units can often be<br />

fitted with replacement lenses or reflectors as required.<br />

Rear and auxiliary units are usually good buys though, just in case, check for accident<br />

damage or stone damage and rusting of the internal parts.<br />

Switches etc : Check that they operate as they should, switch cleanly and that they stay<br />

in all positions. Lucas multifunction direction indicator/dip/horn/ etc. switches are excellent<br />

scrapyard buys, but make sure they function properly as they cannot be repaired.<br />

Remember too that while they often look similar there are many differences - so make<br />

sure the unit you are offered is the right one.<br />

Do not overlook bulbs either. Get some as spares next time you are there. They cost next<br />

to nothing from a yard. Especially true of halogen bulbs which are very expensive new ­<br />

but take care when removing them not to touch the glass part with your fingers as this can<br />

ruin some types.<br />

In the final instalment I'll be detailing how to go about getting the best deal at a 'yard ­<br />

including a solemn warning about not nicking what's not yours (by the way, did I ever<br />

acknowledge the source of these three articles?).<br />

Kevin James<br />

30<br />

Copyright <strong>A40</strong> <strong>Farina</strong> <strong>Club</strong> Ltd<br />

www.a40farinaclub.co.uk<br />

SPARES GUIDE UPDATE<br />

by Paul Stapleton<br />

I had hoped to announce a likely publication date by now but due to holdups in word<br />

processing and circulation of parts lists I am still unable to do so. However, I will explain<br />

what I hope <strong>Club</strong> members will eventually receive. There will be two publications; a Spares<br />

Guide, which will serve the <strong>Club</strong> for at least the next decade, and a Spares Availability &<br />

Sources List, which will need updating every few years.<br />

The Spares Guide lists the latest Rover/Unipart numbers for 1,113 different <strong>A40</strong> parts that<br />

are most likely to be needed by members. Most of these will be illustrated by George<br />

Bailey's excellent computer-scanned diagrams derived from BMC Parts Manuals but<br />

rearranged to suit the various sections of the Guide. However, these are still subject to<br />

copyright permission from Rover Heritage who so far have failed to reply, leaving us little<br />

choice but to press on and hope for the best. Further sections cover paint colours and<br />

codes; obsolete BMC/BURover part numbers for all parts listed; other manufacturers' part<br />

numbers and major <strong>A40</strong> parts common to other cars.<br />

The Spares Availability & Sources List instructs members how to use the two publications<br />

and then lists all 1,113 part numbers with one or more source codes against each one.<br />

The final section lists full details of 96 suppliers of <strong>A40</strong> spares, each with their unique<br />

source code referred to in the previous section. Motor Factors, Rover and Unipart Agents<br />

are also referred to as sources for specific parts. All these sources have also been<br />

published in recent editions of <strong>Farina</strong> News, finishing with this issue.<br />

Thanks go to Richard Stott, Ted Cole, John Fowler and May Kahn for supplying<br />

information after my recent appeals, and to Mr Basford for offering to enlarge and print the<br />

microfiches some of us have had to pore over. A special thank you goes to Kevin James<br />

for looking up those 1,113 parts in the latest Moss Europe, Rover and Unipart Price Lists.<br />

The good news is that 382 of them are available from Moss the Sprite/Midget specialists<br />

(see elsewhere in this magazine for details of their branches) whilst the bad news is that<br />

only 152 are available from Rover Agents and a further 89 from Unipart. I believe that<br />

many Rover Agents are also Unipart stockists, so in practice they should have 241 <strong>A40</strong><br />

parts available - interesting that they are now no longer the biggest source of <strong>A40</strong> parts!<br />

I would like to make a FINAL APPEAL (I hope) for another bit of one-off help from<br />

someone prepared to do some word processing for the above publications - please<br />

contact me at 28 Manor Close, Clifton, Beds. SG17 5EJ and I'll supply details.<br />

Thank you,<br />

SPRITE &MG PARTS<br />

Paul Stapleton<br />

Major <strong>A40</strong> parts common to the MG are indicated on the final page of the Spares<br />

Guide.<br />

The MGB Hive, Marshall's Bank, Parson Drove, Wisbech, Cambs. Phone 01945 700500<br />

(700130). Range of parts for later MG Midgets. Illustrated catalogue uses latest<br />

BMC/BURover part numbers; mail order.<br />

31

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