September 2009

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sparkle. I was the only entry in my 48-49 judging class. There was a beautiful dark cherry maroon '48 convertible, but it was entered as display only. Las Vegas GN Indoor Show Field Showing Charles’ '49 Convertible Next To Ed Cholakian’s Original, 15,000 Mile 1950 Cadillac A Closer Look At Charles’ Convertible In Front Of Caesar’s Palace Scanning the April of 2008 list of 49ers and the list of people in attendance, I believe „49er chapter members attending besides me include Dan Fisher, Ed Cholakian, Frank Stagnitto, Herman Desser and Larry Brennan. There may have been others.
The photo on the previous page is the First Place award I won. Needless to say, I was thrilled even though the competition was absent. [Ed. Note: But, as can be seen in the top two photos, the award to Charles‟ gorgeous convertible was richly deserved, regardless of competition.] I think everyone who drove or trailered a car across the Mojave Desert to Nevada could easily be named a winner just for that effort alone. I left only a small amount behind in the slot machines, and as evidenced by my thorough exhaustion upon arriving back at home, I can definitely state that I had a great time. A BETTER WAY TO REMOVE COUPE DOOR GLASS: IT WORKED FOR ME By Art Gardner My driver‟s side front door glass cracked, necessitating replacement. The 1948 Olds 98 and Cadillac Fisher Body Manual, pages 45-47, sets forth the procedure, which seemed lengthy and complicated. As I proceeded, I realized there is a simpler way, which worked on the front door of my 2-door Club Coupe and MAY work on other body styles, as well as sedan rear doors and cars with power-operated windows. Everything is done to the inside of the door with the door open. As there are lots of screws and small parts, I suggest using several containers to keep the loose parts organized according to the large parts they fasten. 1. Remove the reveal molding at the top and sides of the window frame. Be careful not to lose the two small pieces of rubber at either end which prevent the garnish molding below from being scratched. 2. Remove the inside door handles and window cranks. Although these can be removed with dental picks or other pointed tools, you will do better to use an inside handle removal tool. I recommend the pliers-type illustrated below. This one is made by the KD Company, but similar tools are made by other firms. The flat-type tool is inferior. (See the body manual for removing the switches on Hydro-lectric equipped cars.) 3. Remove the arm rest if a front door. 4. Remove the screws holding the garnish molding below the window to the door. Besides the visible screws, this molding is held to the door by: A. an L-shaped metal hook screwed to the door frame, and; B. the large heads (diameter: ¾ inch, 18 mm.) of screws which slide into slots in the back of the molding, whose shafts are screwed to the door frame. You have to twist the molding slightly to remove and reinstall it. To remove it, you push down on the back end and pull up on the front slightly to get it off the hook. Then, the molding is unlocked from the screw heads by pushing down on the molding while gently pulling it toward you. Later, when re-installing it, you hook the molding over the L-shaped hook with the rear of the molding pushed down to get the large heads of the screws into the keyholes. Once the heads are through the big openings in the keyholes, you pull up on the rear of the molding while keeping the front .
Page 1: Newsletter Of The Forty-Niners Chap
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Page 7: MORE ON BIAS-PLY VS. RADIAL TIRES M

September 2009

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