September 2009

The photo on the previous page is the First Place award I won. Needless to say, I was thrilled even though
the competition was absent. [Ed. Note: But, as can be seen in the top two photos, the award to Charles‟
gorgeous convertible was richly deserved, regardless of competition.]
I think everyone who drove or trailered a car across the Mojave Desert to Nevada could easily be named a
winner just for that effort alone. I left only a small amount behind in the slot machines, and as evidenced
by my thorough exhaustion upon arriving back at home, I can definitely state that I had a great time.
A BETTER WAY TO REMOVE COUPE DOOR GLASS:
IT WORKED FOR ME
By Art Gardner
My driver‟s side front door glass cracked, necessitating replacement. The 1948 Olds 98 and Cadillac
Fisher Body Manual, pages 45-47, sets forth the procedure, which seemed lengthy and complicated. As I
proceeded, I realized there is a simpler way, which worked on the front door of my 2-door Club Coupe and
MAY work on other body styles, as well as sedan rear doors and cars with power-operated windows.
Everything is done to the inside of the door with the door open. As there are lots of screws and small parts,
I suggest using several containers to keep the loose parts organized according to the large parts they fasten.
1. Remove the reveal molding at the top and sides of the window frame. Be careful not to lose the two
small pieces of rubber at either end which prevent the garnish molding below from being scratched.
2. Remove the inside door handles and window cranks. Although these can be removed with dental picks
or other pointed tools, you will do better to use an inside handle removal tool. I recommend the pliers-type
illustrated below. This one is made by the KD Company, but similar tools are made by other firms. The
flat-type tool is inferior. (See the body manual for removing the switches on Hydro-lectric equipped cars.)
3. Remove the arm rest if a front door.
4. Remove the screws holding the garnish molding below the window to the door. Besides the visible
screws, this molding is held to the door by: A. an L-shaped metal hook screwed to the door frame, and;
B. the large heads (diameter: ¾ inch, 18 mm.) of screws which slide into slots in the back of the molding,
whose shafts are screwed to the door frame. You have to twist the molding slightly to remove and reinstall
it. To remove it, you push down on the back end and pull up on the front slightly to get it off the
hook. Then, the molding is unlocked from the screw heads by pushing down on the molding while gently
pulling it toward you. Later, when re-installing it, you hook the molding over the L-shaped hook with the
rear of the molding pushed down to get the large heads of the screws into the keyholes. Once the heads are
through the big openings in the keyholes, you pull up on the rear of the molding while keeping the front
.