the modernist's guide to iconic wilshire boulevard - CicLAvia
the modernist's guide to iconic wilshire boulevard - CicLAvia
the modernist's guide to iconic wilshire boulevard - CicLAvia
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
THE MODERNIST’S GUIDE TO<br />
ICONIC WILSHIRE BOULEVARD<br />
Free downloadable<br />
podcasts highlighting<br />
<strong>the</strong> unique his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
of Wilshire Boulevard<br />
available at:<br />
ciclavia.org/podcasts
Major support for <strong>CicLAvia</strong>—Iconic Wilshire Boulevard<br />
has been provided by <strong>the</strong> Getty Foundation.<br />
<strong>CicLAvia</strong> PArtners<br />
CICLAVIA SUPPORTERS<br />
Goldhirsh Foundation<br />
Rosenthal Family Foundation<br />
The California Endowment<br />
Pirelli Tires<br />
Los Angeles County<br />
Bicycle Coalition<br />
Wasserman Foundation<br />
David Bohnett Foundation<br />
REI<br />
Designed by Colleen Corcoran<br />
Printed by Indie Printing<br />
© <strong>CicLAvia</strong> 2013<br />
<strong>CicLAvia</strong> sponsors<br />
The Ratkovich Company<br />
Millennium Hollywood<br />
Los Angeles Department of<br />
Water & Power<br />
Ralphs<br />
Sport Chalet<br />
Tern Bicycles<br />
Honorable Zev Yaroslavsky<br />
Ludlow Kingsley<br />
Indie Printing<br />
media PARTNERS<br />
KCRW 89.9<br />
Laemmle Theatres<br />
<strong>CicLAvia</strong> is a series of car-free, open<br />
streets events that temporarily<br />
transform select Los Angeles roadways<br />
in<strong>to</strong> innovative public spaces<br />
for all <strong>to</strong> enjoy.<br />
For a few hours on a Sunday, Angelenos are<br />
given <strong>the</strong> opportunity <strong>to</strong> experience new<br />
neighborhoods by foot, bike, rollerblades,<br />
skates or o<strong>the</strong>r forms of non-mo<strong>to</strong>rized<br />
transport. <strong>CicLAvia</strong> connects diverse communities<br />
and populations and underscores<br />
<strong>the</strong> possibility of a more pedestrian, bike,<br />
and public transit-friendly Los Angeles.<br />
<strong>CicLAvia</strong>—Iconic Wilshire Boulevard is part<br />
of Pacific Standard Time Presents: Modern<br />
Architecture in L.A. This collaboration,<br />
initiated by <strong>the</strong> Getty, is a celebration of<br />
Sou<strong>the</strong>rn California’s lasting impact on<br />
modern architecture. It includes exhibitions<br />
and accompanying programs presented<br />
by seventeen area cultural institutions from<br />
April through July 2013.
About <strong>the</strong> Podcast<br />
As part of Pacific Standard Time Presents: Modern<br />
Architecture in L.A., <strong>CicLAvia</strong> offers a series of free<br />
downloadable podcasts highlighting <strong>the</strong> unique his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
of Wilshire Boulevard. Created by noted architectural<br />
researcher and commenta<strong>to</strong>r Edward Lifson, <strong>the</strong> podcasts<br />
present a series of s<strong>to</strong>ries that take <strong>the</strong> listener from<br />
Wilshire’s humble beginnings more than a century ago<br />
<strong>to</strong> its distinctive focus on <strong>the</strong> modern era, and all <strong>the</strong><br />
way <strong>to</strong> its present-day state of revival with a new subway<br />
line, cutting-edge skyscrapers, LACMA’s radical new<br />
campus, and so much more. A diverse group of Angelenos<br />
share <strong>the</strong>ir dreams, challenges, failures and successes as<br />
Lifson examines <strong>the</strong> forces that have and continue <strong>to</strong> shape<br />
this <strong>iconic</strong> <strong>boulevard</strong>.<br />
DOWNLOAD FROM: ciclavia.org/podcasts<br />
The first <strong>CicLAvia</strong> on 10/10/10<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Gary Leonard.
Wilshire Boulevard, one of <strong>the</strong><br />
oldest thoroughfares in <strong>the</strong> city,<br />
is also <strong>the</strong> most dense and diverse.<br />
Its namesake is Henry Gaylord Wilshire, an<br />
eccentric “socialist-millionaire,” who subdivided<br />
35 acres of land west of Westlake Park<br />
(now MacArthur Park) in 1895. By <strong>the</strong> 1910s<br />
and 1920s, wealthy Angelenos were moving<br />
west <strong>to</strong> Wilshire. It soon became known for<br />
its au<strong>to</strong>-oriented amenities (including <strong>the</strong> first<br />
street lights and striped lanes) and high-rise<br />
apartment <strong>to</strong>wers. Dubbed <strong>the</strong> “Fifth Avenue<br />
of <strong>the</strong> West,” it became known as <strong>the</strong> most<br />
expensive street in LA. But by <strong>the</strong> late 1930s<br />
its eastern section had transformed in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
epicenter for depictions of lost hope and<br />
dashed dreams, entering <strong>the</strong> age of noir as<br />
Raymond Chandler and filmmakers set cynical<br />
scenes in <strong>the</strong> glow of roof<strong>to</strong>p neon along<br />
Wilshire’s 3.5 mile illuminated corridor.<br />
The focus of The Modernist’s Guide <strong>to</strong> Iconic<br />
Wilshire Boulevard recognizes this past, but in<br />
light of architectural developments from <strong>the</strong><br />
1940s <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>day. The urban space this <strong>CicLAvia</strong><br />
traverses has changed dramatically as <strong>the</strong><br />
result of shifting demographics, <strong>the</strong> impact<br />
of car culture, new technologies, and <strong>the</strong><br />
demands of new forms of capital investment<br />
and disinvestment. Overall, <strong>the</strong> era has been<br />
marked by mobility: of people and money.<br />
The postwar his<strong>to</strong>ry of this stretch of Wilshire<br />
has also been defined by community, where<br />
multilayered his<strong>to</strong>ries of this place and its<br />
many peoples (diverse in age, class, and<br />
ethnicity) are what make it matter <strong>to</strong>day and<br />
offer up a new set of icons <strong>to</strong> LA his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />
Change on Wilshire hasn’t always been<br />
about replacement of <strong>the</strong> old with <strong>the</strong> new.<br />
Sometimes previous layers are still visible,<br />
though sometimes <strong>the</strong>ir remnants are largely<br />
invisible. Calling out <strong>the</strong> buildings still standing<br />
and <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ries of people and places long<br />
gone can still give us a deeper sense of place<br />
and his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />
— Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Gudis
1. ONE WILSHIRE/DOWNTOWN LA<br />
Aerial view of down<strong>to</strong>wn Los Angeles; <strong>the</strong> One<br />
Wilshire building is in <strong>the</strong> foreground, 1975<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> from <strong>the</strong> Herald Examiner, 1975.<br />
Courtesy of <strong>the</strong> Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.
1 One Wilshire<br />
Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill, 1964<br />
624 S. Grand Ave.<br />
When this 30-s<strong>to</strong>ry office <strong>to</strong>wer was completed it<br />
became <strong>the</strong> tallest building around, its verticality a<br />
marker of soaring down<strong>to</strong>wn property values. By<br />
<strong>the</strong> mid 1980s, as businesses fled <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> suburbs,<br />
<strong>the</strong> building transformed in<strong>to</strong> a “telecommunications<br />
hotel”—a “palace of e<strong>the</strong>r”—where space continues<br />
<strong>to</strong> be leased for telecom, computing, and Internet<br />
equipment and services.<br />
2 General Petroleum/Pegasus<br />
Walter Wurdeman and Wel<strong>to</strong>n Becket, 1949<br />
731 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Named “Pegasus” for <strong>the</strong> Mobil Oil logo once on<br />
<strong>to</strong>p, this modern marvel showcases aluminum fin<br />
sunshades, accordion-fold windows, and open<br />
interiors. The building, now known as Pegasus<br />
Apartments, was converted <strong>to</strong> apartments in 2001<br />
through <strong>the</strong> City’s Adaptive Reuse Ordinance.<br />
2. GENERAL PETROLEUM/PEGASUS<br />
The largest office building in Sou<strong>the</strong>rn California when<br />
built at a cost of $11,000,000. Shown here shortly after<br />
its completion, 1949 Pho<strong>to</strong> from <strong>the</strong> Herald Examiner.<br />
Courtesy of <strong>the</strong> Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection
3. 110 harbor freeway<br />
Postcard showing <strong>the</strong> Harbor Freeway<br />
through Down<strong>to</strong>wn LA, c. 1960<br />
3 110 Harbor Freeway<br />
1952<br />
Carving a submerged path through down<strong>to</strong>wn,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Harbor Freeway connected with <strong>the</strong> West’s first<br />
freeway, <strong>the</strong> Arroyo Seco Parkway (1941) via <strong>the</strong><br />
“Four Level” (1949–53)—<strong>the</strong> first stack interchange in<br />
<strong>the</strong> world. It also fixed a boundary between <strong>the</strong> old<br />
eastern neighborhoods (including down<strong>to</strong>wn) and<br />
western LA, <strong>the</strong> new frontier of commerce and capital.<br />
4 Alvarado<br />
Spanning 6th St.—Wilshire Blvd.—7th St.<br />
Though street peddling of everything from tamales<br />
<strong>to</strong> newspapers has been intermittently banned in LA<br />
since at least 1906, this eastern edge of MacArthur<br />
Park has long been <strong>the</strong> center of <strong>the</strong> “geography of<br />
getting by.” A robust trade in everything from tube<br />
socks <strong>to</strong> second-hand goods <strong>to</strong> pupusas draws thousands<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> streets.<br />
4. Paleta sellers<br />
A view of two “Paleta” sellers with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
ice cream carts standing at <strong>the</strong> corner<br />
of 9th Street near MacArthur Park, 1986<br />
Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection
5 Westlake/MacArthur Park<br />
5. MacArthur Park<br />
Postcard showing Westlake Park<br />
by moonlight, c. 1930<br />
Westlake Park, created out of a mud pit and garbage<br />
dump, became a civic attraction by <strong>the</strong> turn of <strong>the</strong> twentieth<br />
century, and was ringed by grand structures serving<br />
city elite by <strong>the</strong> 1920s and 1930s. The 1934 viaduct<br />
connected Wilshire Blvd. <strong>to</strong> down<strong>to</strong>wn, permitting car<br />
travel right through <strong>the</strong> park. Yet by <strong>the</strong> time <strong>the</strong> park was<br />
renamed for General Douglas MacArthur in 1942, <strong>the</strong><br />
area around it was already considered an investment risk<br />
by federal housing agents that financed suburbanization.<br />
The park and its surrounding neighborhoods shifted with<br />
<strong>the</strong> times, serving diverse populations and orientations<br />
by <strong>the</strong> 1950s and 1960s, <strong>the</strong> tens of thousands of Central<br />
American immigrants fleeing civil wars and violence by<br />
<strong>the</strong> late 1970s and 1980s, and as a central locale for social<br />
services by <strong>the</strong> 1980s and 1990s, when it was also <strong>the</strong> hub<br />
for <strong>the</strong> LA drug market and gangs.<br />
Revitalization in decades since has come from <strong>the</strong> public<br />
art program of <strong>the</strong> 1980s, <strong>the</strong> 1996 completion of <strong>the</strong><br />
Metro line, down<strong>to</strong>wn’s renewed economic vitality, and<br />
<strong>the</strong> conversion of commercial buildings in<strong>to</strong> housing.<br />
The park’s recreation center, soccer fields, and informal<br />
economy of vending have res<strong>to</strong>red its dense utilization.<br />
The his<strong>to</strong>ric bandshell—originally built in1896, replaced in<br />
1957, and a modern icon in part for hosting break dancers<br />
and hip hop artists in <strong>the</strong> 1980s—was res<strong>to</strong>red in 2007<br />
and hosts regular concerts. Throughout this time, <strong>the</strong> park<br />
has continued <strong>to</strong> host May Day ga<strong>the</strong>rings and serve as a<br />
rallying point for parades, strikes, and boycotts.
6 Westlake Theatre<br />
Richard Bates, 1926; S. Charles Lee, 1936<br />
636 S. Alvarado St.<br />
The nearly 2,000-seat <strong>the</strong>ater (operating until 1991)<br />
broadcast its offerings with an intact three-s<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
neon sign. Bustling with activity as a swap meet, <strong>the</strong><br />
Community Redevelopment Agency (CRA) purchased<br />
<strong>the</strong> building in order <strong>to</strong> res<strong>to</strong>re it; with <strong>the</strong> CRA’s disbanding,<br />
future plans are not clear. On <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
wall is a mural by Hec<strong>to</strong>r Ponce, Los Angeles Teachers<br />
(1997), featuring Jaime Escalante and <strong>the</strong> man who<br />
portrayed him in <strong>the</strong> movies, Edward James Olmos.<br />
6. WESTLAKE THEATRE SIGN<br />
Detail of roof<strong>to</strong>p neon sign<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />
7 Langer’s Delicatessen<br />
Unknown architect, 1932 704 S. Alvarado St.<br />
Al and Jean Langer opened <strong>the</strong>ir delicatessen in<br />
1947 and it has been an LA institution since, now also<br />
offering curbside service. Even by 1947, <strong>the</strong> Jewish<br />
population, which had peaked in this area in <strong>the</strong><br />
late 1920s, was heading west or <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> suburbs. Yet<br />
<strong>the</strong> Langer’s continued <strong>to</strong> serve this neighborhood.<br />
Langer’s still wins prizes around <strong>the</strong> world for its<br />
mile-high, $14 pastrami sandwich, though as you<br />
walk in you are more likely <strong>to</strong> hear Nuahuatl than<br />
Yiddish spoken.<br />
LANGER’S 7. DELICATESSEN<br />
Entrance and sign on 7th Street<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.
8 Chouinard Institute of<br />
<strong>the</strong> Arts/Korean New Times<br />
Presbyterian Church<br />
Morgan, Walls, and Clements, 1929<br />
743 S. Grand View St.<br />
Founded in 1921 as a progressive art school, it<br />
merged in 1969 with Walt and Roy Disney’s CalArts,<br />
and moved <strong>to</strong> Valencia. From 1972 until it became a<br />
church in 1974, <strong>the</strong> Woman’s Building operated here.<br />
In recent years Workers’ Meeting (1932), <strong>the</strong> first of<br />
three controversial murals David Alfaro Siquieros completed<br />
in LA, was discovered beneath layers of paint<br />
in <strong>the</strong> church’s kitchen.<br />
9 Radiotron<br />
9. radiotron<br />
Graffiti art decorates walls of <strong>the</strong><br />
community center, 1985<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> from <strong>the</strong> Herald Examiner.<br />
Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.<br />
Building no longer extant<br />
715 S. Park View St.<br />
Carmelo Alvarez ran <strong>the</strong> Youth Break Center at<br />
Radiotron from 1983 <strong>to</strong> 1985, as a safe social space for<br />
kids <strong>to</strong> breakdance, do graffiti, MC, and DJ. It became<br />
<strong>the</strong> focal point for early hip hop culture on <strong>the</strong> West<br />
Coast and center <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> first Graffiti Art Crews in<br />
LA. When <strong>the</strong> building was razed in 1985, activities<br />
from <strong>the</strong> youth center moved <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> bandshell in<br />
MacArthur Park.
10 American Cement Building<br />
DMJM, 1964<br />
2404 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
A dramatic use of concrete intended <strong>to</strong> promote<br />
<strong>the</strong> American Cement company, <strong>the</strong> latticework of<br />
two-<strong>to</strong>n cast concrete “X”s supports <strong>the</strong> building<br />
from <strong>the</strong> outside, leaving interiors free of supporting<br />
beams—great for <strong>the</strong> 71 live/work lofts now occupying<br />
<strong>the</strong> space.<br />
10. AMERICAN CEMENT BUILDING<br />
On Park View looking <strong>to</strong>ward Wilshire, 1960<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Julius Shulman. Copyright J. Paul Getty Trust.<br />
11 Otis Art Institute/Charles<br />
White Elementary School<br />
William L. Pereira, 1957<br />
2401 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
LA Times publisher Harrison Gray Otis built <strong>the</strong><br />
first residence on Wilshire Blvd. here in 1898, and<br />
bequea<strong>the</strong>d it <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> county for an art school in 1917.<br />
The Otis Art Institute, which operated on this site<br />
from 1918 until 1997, demolished <strong>the</strong> Otis residence<br />
<strong>to</strong> create <strong>the</strong> school campus that still stands <strong>to</strong>day.<br />
Though acting as an elementary school since 2004,<br />
<strong>the</strong> west wall still hosts a mural by Kent Twitchell,<br />
The Holy Trinity (with TV stars from Lassie, The Lone<br />
Ranger, and Fa<strong>the</strong>r Knows Best used as models).
12 Elks Lodge/Park Plaza<br />
Curlett and Beelman, 1925 607 S. Park View St.<br />
Originally a private social hall for civic elite, this facility<br />
had it all, including a pool, bowling alley, gym, and<br />
169 hotel rooms. When membership dwindled in <strong>the</strong><br />
1960s, <strong>the</strong> building was sold, and served as a YMCA,<br />
a retirement hotel, and a rental hall, where scores of<br />
Angelenos remember it for events in <strong>the</strong> 1980s, from<br />
quinceañeras <strong>to</strong> punk rock concerts. Now its ground<br />
floors are refurbished and used for events and filming.<br />
12. ELKS LODGE/PARK PLAZA<br />
Exterior statues of angels appear on<br />
every corner of <strong>the</strong> building<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />
13<br />
Iconic Queer Culture<br />
Park Theater<br />
John S. Austin, 1914;<br />
S. Charles Lee, 1935<br />
710 S. Alvarado St.<br />
14<br />
Silver Platter<br />
Unknown architect, 1923<br />
2700 W. 7th St.<br />
In 1968, films by Kenneth Anger, Andy Warhol, Jack<br />
Smith, and Pat Rocco—all using queer <strong>the</strong>mes and<br />
imagery—launched <strong>the</strong> cultural programming that<br />
would make <strong>the</strong> Park one of <strong>the</strong> first commercial<br />
<strong>the</strong>aters in <strong>the</strong> nation <strong>to</strong> openly present homoerotic<br />
film fare. The Silver Platter, opened in 1963 by Rogelio<br />
Ramirez, is likely <strong>the</strong> oldest continuously operating<br />
gay bar in LA. It is <strong>the</strong> subject of a 2012 documentary<br />
film, Wildness, by Wu Tsang. O<strong>the</strong>r his<strong>to</strong>ric gay and<br />
lesbian bars in <strong>the</strong> area (gone now) include <strong>the</strong> Brass<br />
Spurr, Lakeshore, and Fallen Angel.
15 Lafayette Park Senior Citizen<br />
Center/Lafayette Park<br />
Recreation Center<br />
Graham Latta, 1963; Stephen Kanner/Kanner<br />
Architects, 2011 625 South Lafayette Park Place<br />
Barrel-arched concrete canopies still define <strong>the</strong><br />
former senior center on <strong>the</strong> east side of Lafayette Park,<br />
now augmented by 15,000-square feet of light-filled<br />
classroom and gymnasium space. The center and <strong>the</strong><br />
park are anchored by HOLA (Heart of Los Angeles),<br />
which provides underserved youth with programs<br />
in academics, arts, and athletics and welcomes <strong>the</strong><br />
“regulars”—a mixed-age assortment of families, soccer<br />
players, and vendors<br />
16 CNA Insurance/Los Angeles<br />
Superior Court Building<br />
Langdon and Wilson Architects;<br />
landscape architect, Emmet L. Wemple, 1972<br />
600 Commonwealth Ave.<br />
The 19-s<strong>to</strong>ry glass slab is shea<strong>the</strong>d in a mirrored skin<br />
comprised of over 5,000 individual panels that reflect<br />
<strong>the</strong> changing sky and surroundings with <strong>the</strong> effect of<br />
an impressionist painting. One of twenty-seven office<br />
buildings on Wilshire designed by Langdon and<br />
Wilson, it was intended <strong>to</strong> enhance <strong>the</strong> park at its side.<br />
15. HEART OF LA<br />
Mural by HOLA students<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> courtesy of HOLA.<br />
16. Los Angeles Superior<br />
Court Building<br />
Waves of granite panels at <strong>the</strong> plaza level<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.
LA BREA<br />
LARCHMONT<br />
ROSSMORE<br />
HIGHLAND<br />
FAIRFAX<br />
MCCADEN<br />
SANTA MONICA<br />
Route for <strong>CicLAvia</strong> — Iconic Wilshire Boulevard June 23, 2013<br />
MELROSE<br />
MELROSE<br />
BEVERLY<br />
BEVERLY<br />
Vermont/<br />
Beverly<br />
SUNSET<br />
ECHO PARK<br />
may co.<br />
lacma<br />
37 35 34 33<br />
36<br />
HAUSER<br />
OLYMPIC<br />
VENICE<br />
3RD<br />
6TH<br />
32<br />
LA BREA<br />
LA BREA<br />
HIGHLAND<br />
31<br />
RIMPAU<br />
WEST<br />
SCOTTISH RITE<br />
MASONIC TEMPLE<br />
WILSHIRE<br />
THE HOUSE<br />
OF TOMORROW<br />
30<br />
29<br />
CRENSHAW<br />
28<br />
ARLINGTON<br />
6TH<br />
WILTON<br />
WESTERN<br />
Wilshire/<br />
Western<br />
27<br />
WESTERN<br />
3RD<br />
OLYMPIC<br />
PICO<br />
VENICE<br />
NORMANDIE<br />
25 23 21<br />
NORMANDIE<br />
20<br />
WASHINGTON<br />
VERMONT<br />
Wilshire/<br />
Vermont<br />
26 24 22 19 18<br />
Wilshire/<br />
Normandie<br />
wiltern<br />
bullocks<br />
<strong>the</strong>ater 8TH<br />
<strong>wilshire</strong><br />
VERMONT<br />
VIRGIL<br />
3RD<br />
HOOVER<br />
TEMPLE<br />
BEVERLY<br />
ALVARADO<br />
RAMPART<br />
VENICE<br />
PICO<br />
8TH<br />
OLYMPIC<br />
110<br />
101<br />
ALVARADO<br />
macarthur<br />
16 15 park<br />
12<br />
17 14 11<br />
10 5<br />
6<br />
4<br />
9<br />
8 7<br />
13 Westlake/<br />
MacArthur<br />
Park<br />
6TH<br />
7TH<br />
3RD<br />
1ST<br />
WILSHIRE<br />
FIGUEROA<br />
Pico<br />
GLENDALE<br />
ONE<br />
WILSHIRE<br />
FLOWER<br />
3<br />
GRAND<br />
7th Street/<br />
Metro Center<br />
HILL<br />
2<br />
MAIN<br />
1<br />
SUNSET<br />
Pershing<br />
Square<br />
<strong>CicLAvia</strong> Route<br />
Metro Rail Stations<br />
ADAMS<br />
ADAMS<br />
23rd<br />
Street<br />
Grand<br />
WASHINGTON<br />
10
17 High Society<br />
Unknown architect, 1905<br />
2974 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
In 1968, Richard Lim opened one of <strong>the</strong> first Korean<br />
businesses on Wilshire Blvd., a tailor shop that catered<br />
<strong>to</strong> a largely Korean immigrant population, whose<br />
numbers had risen after <strong>the</strong> passage of <strong>the</strong> 1965<br />
Hart-Cellar Act (lifting immigration quotas, especially<br />
for Asians, and urging entry by professionals and<br />
families). Word of Lim’s quality “bespoke” suits (handmade<br />
<strong>to</strong> order) quickly reached Hollywood elite. It<br />
remains in continuous operation.<br />
18. bullocks <strong>wilshire</strong><br />
View of 241-foot copper-shea<strong>the</strong>d <strong>to</strong>wer<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley<br />
18 Bullocks Wilshire/<br />
Southwestern Law School<br />
John and Donald Parkinson, 1929<br />
3050 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
This landmark Art Deco building was among <strong>the</strong> first<br />
department s<strong>to</strong>res <strong>to</strong> move out of down<strong>to</strong>wn, catering<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> car with a porte cochere at <strong>the</strong> rear. Closed after<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1992 Rodney King uprising as business and <strong>the</strong><br />
surrounding neighborhood declined, <strong>the</strong> building<br />
was purchased by Southwestern Law School. It <strong>to</strong>ok<br />
$29 million and many years <strong>to</strong> res<strong>to</strong>re and adaptively<br />
reuse <strong>the</strong> building.
19 Ambassador Hotel/<br />
Robert F. Kennedy (RFK)<br />
Community Schools<br />
Original Myron Hunt/Paul Williams buildings no<br />
longer extant; Gonzalez Goodale Architects, 2010<br />
3400 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
The icon of Hollywood glamour and nightlife and<br />
primary driver of Wilshire Blvd. development in <strong>the</strong><br />
1920s, <strong>the</strong> Ambassador was demolished in 2007 <strong>to</strong><br />
make way for a school complex. The original white<br />
plaster driveway pylons are among <strong>the</strong> few remnants.<br />
Street-side contemporary artwork by May Sun and<br />
Richard Wyatt incorporates quotes by RFK, who was<br />
assassinated inside <strong>the</strong> hotel in 1968.<br />
19. AMBASSADOR HOTEL<br />
Color postcard showing interior courtyard<br />
Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection<br />
20 Equitable Plaza<br />
Wel<strong>to</strong>n Becket and Associates, 1969<br />
3435 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Once <strong>the</strong> site of <strong>the</strong> Brown Derby (whose brown rim<br />
and rounded crown now houses The Red, a bar at<br />
across <strong>the</strong> street at 3377 Wilshire), this was <strong>the</strong> 25th<br />
building by Becket on Wilshire. Like most of <strong>the</strong><br />
office buildings in Mid-Wilshire, it is owned by Korean<br />
American physician David Lee’s Jamison Services,<br />
which started acquiring properties when values plummeted<br />
after <strong>the</strong> 1992 uprisings.<br />
20. <strong>the</strong> brown derby<br />
Exterior of <strong>the</strong> famous “derby-shaped” at <strong>the</strong><br />
Wilshire Boulevard Brown Derby location, 1957<br />
Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection
21. tishman <strong>to</strong>wers<br />
Triplet highrise <strong>to</strong>wers Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />
21 Mid-Century Tishman<br />
Developed Properties<br />
Tishman Plaza<br />
Claud Beelman, 1952<br />
3440–3450–3460 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Tishman-Shera<strong>to</strong>n Wilshire Hotel/<br />
The Line Wilshire Hotel<br />
DMJM, 1964<br />
3515 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Tishman Towers/NY Life-Saehan Bank<br />
Vic<strong>to</strong>r Gruen, 1956<br />
3540–3550 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Envisioning Wilshire as <strong>the</strong> new New York, developer<br />
William Tishman aimed “<strong>to</strong> overcome <strong>the</strong><br />
Los Angeles spread” with corporate modernist<br />
high-rise <strong>to</strong>wers designed by <strong>the</strong> biggest names<br />
in architecture. Tishman defined both <strong>the</strong> midcentury<br />
design direction and <strong>the</strong> corporatization<br />
of Wilshire with Fortune 500 companies.
22 Travelers Insurance<br />
Company<br />
Wel<strong>to</strong>n Becket and Associates, 1961<br />
3600 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Blue ceramic tiles grace <strong>the</strong> façade, while <strong>the</strong> lobby<br />
features a 4-part, 57-foot long colored mosaic<br />
glass mural abstractly depicting “man’s life span”<br />
by Bauhaus émigré Gyorgy Kepes.<br />
22. tRAVELERS INSURANCE COMPANY<br />
Gyorgy Kepes mural detail Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />
23 St. Basil Catholic Church<br />
A.C. Martin and Associates, 1969<br />
3611 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Multi-faceted concrete <strong>to</strong>wers are knit <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r with<br />
Cubistic, metal-framed shards of kaleidoscopic<br />
stained glass by Claire Falkenstein, whose webbed<br />
abstractions wrought in metal also cover <strong>the</strong><br />
entry doors.<br />
23. st. BASIL CHURCH<br />
Detail of stained-glass windows created<br />
by sculp<strong>to</strong>r Claire Falkenstein<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.
24 Wilshire Park<br />
Place-Beneficial Plaza/<br />
Radio Korea Building<br />
Gordon Bunshaft and E. Charles Bassett for<br />
Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill, 1967<br />
3700 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
The front plaza’s block-long and acre-wide lawn (with<br />
a grove of Canary Island pines in <strong>the</strong> center) was<br />
intended <strong>to</strong> enhance <strong>the</strong> city’s green civic space in<br />
an era of suburbanization. It hosts scores of Sunday<br />
skateboarders drawn <strong>to</strong> its concrete ramps.<br />
25 Ahmanson Center/<br />
Wilshire Colonnade<br />
Edward Durell S<strong>to</strong>ne, 1967<br />
3701 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
A modernist interpretation of a classical marble<br />
colonnade flanking a public place and punctuated<br />
with orbed light fixtures. It is home <strong>to</strong>day <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
nation’s largest Korean American bank.<br />
25. AHMANSON CENTER/WILSHIRE COLONADE<br />
Interior courtyard light fixture<br />
Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.
26 Pellissier Building and<br />
Wiltern Theater<br />
Morgan, Walls, and Clements, 1931;<br />
res<strong>to</strong>ration, Brenda Levin, 1981<br />
3780 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Saved from demolition in 1980, this Art Deco icon<br />
in green terracotta houses architects, cultural organizations,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bus Riders Union, and even <strong>CicLAvia</strong>’s<br />
headquarters alongside <strong>the</strong> 2,300 seat Wiltern<br />
Theater. Here at <strong>the</strong> corner of Wilshire and Western<br />
where mixed-use development, Metro and Rapid<br />
lines merge, one can truly sense <strong>the</strong> enormous<br />
mass transit system of Los Angeles belying LA’s<br />
car-centric reputation.<br />
27 St. James Episcopal Church<br />
26. wiltern <strong>the</strong>ater<br />
View from Wilshire/Western Metro<br />
Station across Wilshire<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />
Benjamin G. McDougall, 1925 3903 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Among <strong>the</strong> famous members of <strong>the</strong> congregation<br />
was jazz musician and singer Nat King Cole, who in<br />
1946 was <strong>the</strong> first black performing artist <strong>to</strong> sponsor<br />
his own radio program and <strong>the</strong> first in 1956 <strong>to</strong> host<br />
his own television show. Similarly, Cole’s family<br />
broke color barriers when <strong>the</strong>y first began attending<br />
services at <strong>the</strong> church. Cole’s televised funeral here<br />
in 1965 included celebrities Duke Elling<strong>to</strong>n, Robert F.<br />
Kennedy, and Frank Sinatra.
28 Tidewater (Getty) Oil/<br />
Harbor Building<br />
Claud Beelman, 1958<br />
4201 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
From <strong>the</strong> polished black granite base (apropos <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
petroleum company that built it) rises a striking white<br />
marble façade divided by vertically extending stainless<br />
steel spandrels. It was <strong>the</strong> largest office building<br />
in Sou<strong>the</strong>rn California when built.<br />
29 Wilshire Twilighter Hotel/<br />
Dunes Inn Wilshire<br />
Sam Reisbord and Associates, 1958<br />
4300 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
The three-s<strong>to</strong>ry, brick-clad cylindrical stairwell defines<br />
<strong>the</strong> carport for this low-rise modernist hotel (one of<br />
<strong>the</strong> few remaining with intact exteriors, and <strong>the</strong> only<br />
one on Wilshire). The circular motif continues in <strong>the</strong><br />
canopy cu<strong>to</strong>uts for light fixtures.<br />
29. DUNES INN<br />
Nor<strong>the</strong>astern side of <strong>the</strong> 100-room, 3-s<strong>to</strong>ry Wilshire Dunes<br />
Mo<strong>to</strong>r Hotel, later renamed <strong>the</strong> Dunes Inn, 1978<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Anne Laskey. Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection
30 Scottish Rite Masonic Temple<br />
Millard Sheets, 1961<br />
4357 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Eight groups of massive cast cement sculptures and<br />
glittering mosaics on <strong>the</strong> exteriors depict his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />
Masonic <strong>the</strong>mes. Millard Sheets, <strong>the</strong> architect of this<br />
building, was direc<strong>to</strong>r of Otis Art Institute from 1953-<br />
1959, and his work as a mosaic muralist can be seen<br />
throughout Los Angeles.<br />
30. SCOTTISH RITE TEMPLE STATUE<br />
Close-up of <strong>the</strong> “Hiram” statue by Albert Stewart,<br />
located on sou<strong>the</strong>rn façade, 1978 Pho<strong>to</strong> by Anne Laskey.<br />
1978 Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection<br />
31 The Post-War House/<br />
The House of Tomorrow/<br />
Leaders Academy (school)<br />
Wurdeman and Becket, 1946<br />
4950 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Designed as a showcase for modern living, this<br />
“research house”—with built-ins and high-tech<br />
domestic wonders (like an air purifier called <strong>the</strong><br />
“Precipitron”)—was <strong>the</strong> brainchild of tract-home<br />
builder Fritz B. Burns, who opened it in 1946 and<br />
charged $1 admission. It reopened in 1951 as <strong>the</strong><br />
House of Tomorrow, and hosted a million visi<strong>to</strong>rs.<br />
31. <strong>the</strong> house of <strong>to</strong>morrow<br />
Artist’s concept sketch, 1947<br />
Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.
32 Lee Tower<br />
W. Douglas Lee and D. Everett Lee, 1957–58<br />
5455 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
At 22 s<strong>to</strong>ries, this is <strong>the</strong> first skyscraper built in LA<br />
after <strong>the</strong> relaxation of <strong>the</strong> 150’ height limit ordinance.<br />
The <strong>to</strong>wer became a beacon for a future distinct from<br />
<strong>the</strong> Art Deco, Moderne, and Spanish Colonial Revival<br />
styles defining <strong>the</strong> Miracle Mile from La Brea <strong>to</strong> Fairfax.<br />
33 Prudential/Museum Square<br />
Wurdeman and Becket, 1948<br />
5757 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Covering two city blocks and 517,000-square feet of<br />
office and retail space, this International Style complex<br />
changed Miracle Mile from a shopping location <strong>to</strong> a<br />
white-collar office district, even though one wing held<br />
Ohrbach’s department s<strong>to</strong>re until 1965. It marks <strong>the</strong><br />
apo<strong>the</strong>osis of a mile-long commercial area dubbed<br />
a miracle when A. W. Ross developed it from fields of<br />
barley and wheat punctuated by oil derricks in<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1920s.<br />
33. prudential building<br />
Looking northwest from across Wilshire, 1978<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Anne Laskey. Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong><br />
Collection.
34. LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART<br />
Main entrance, c. 1965<br />
Copyright 2013 Museum Associates/LACMA, pho<strong>to</strong>graphic archives.<br />
35. MAY CO./LACMA west<br />
Corner view of “perfume bottle” entrance, 1947<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Julius Shulman. Copyright J. Paul Getty Trust.<br />
34 Los Angeles County Museum<br />
of Art (LACMA)<br />
William L. Pereira and Associates, 1965;<br />
Hardy Holzman Pfeiffer, 1986 5905 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Though 1980s additions make it hard <strong>to</strong> discern, <strong>the</strong><br />
museum was originally three pavilion-like structures on<br />
a reinforced concrete slab that seemed <strong>to</strong> float above<br />
pools of water (cemented after subterranean tar began<br />
bubbling <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> surface). Plans are for a new glass<br />
building by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor <strong>to</strong> replace<br />
<strong>the</strong>se, though Bruce Goff’s 1988 Pavilion for Japanese<br />
Art as well as o<strong>the</strong>r, newer buildings would remain.<br />
35 Wilshire May Co./<br />
Future Home of Academy<br />
Museum of Motion Pictures<br />
A. C. Martin and Samuel A. Marx, 1940<br />
6067 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
Ground-hugging horizontality is offset by <strong>the</strong> blackand-gold<br />
cylindrical “perfume bottle” at <strong>the</strong> corner<br />
of this Streamline Moderne gem, which, when<br />
opened, was <strong>to</strong>uted as “The S<strong>to</strong>re of Tomorrow.”<br />
Owned by LACMA since 1994, it will house <strong>the</strong><br />
Academy Museum of Motion Pictures which will<br />
open <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> public in 2017.
36 Seibu/Ohrbach’s/Petersen<br />
Au<strong>to</strong>motive Museum<br />
Wel<strong>to</strong>n Becket and Associates, 1962;<br />
Russell Group, 1994<br />
6060 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
The first Japanese department s<strong>to</strong>re in <strong>the</strong> nation<br />
was also <strong>the</strong> last department s<strong>to</strong>re <strong>to</strong> be built on <strong>the</strong><br />
Miracle Mile. Its roof<strong>to</strong>p glass pavilion served as a<br />
teahouse, surrounded by a Japanese garden and<br />
reflecting pool. In 1994 <strong>the</strong> museum renovated <strong>the</strong><br />
building and added car-wash styled fins.<br />
37 Romeo’s Times Square/<br />
Johnie’s Coffee Shop<br />
Helen Fong for Armét and Davis, 1955<br />
6101 Wilshire Blvd.<br />
First an airfield, <strong>the</strong>n an early drive-in restaurant<br />
named Simon’s, and now one of <strong>the</strong> few remaining<br />
“Googie”-style coffee shops in <strong>the</strong> city. Johnie’s<br />
spectacular neon signage, dramatically upswung<br />
roof, and sheer expanse of plate glass facing <strong>the</strong> road<br />
(<strong>to</strong> display brightly-colored interiors and <strong>to</strong> offer a<br />
moving picture <strong>to</strong> diners) drew cus<strong>to</strong>mers until 2000,<br />
when it was closed.<br />
37. JOHNIE’S COFFEE SHOP<br />
Exterior view of <strong>the</strong> “Googie”-style entrance and sign, 1978<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> by Anne Laskey. Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.
Research and writing by Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Gudis based on sources<br />
including <strong>the</strong> Los Angeles Conservancy’s curating<strong>the</strong>city.org,<br />
Wilshire Boulevard: The Grand Concourse of Los Angeles,<br />
A People’s Guide <strong>to</strong> Los Angeles, and Cruising <strong>the</strong> Archive:<br />
Queer Art and Culture in LA, 1945–80.<br />
Opening in 2017<br />
Wilshire May<br />
Company Building<br />
at Fairfax Avenue<br />
www.oscars.org/<br />
museum