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the modernist's guide to iconic wilshire boulevard - CicLAvia

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THE MODERNIST’S GUIDE TO<br />

ICONIC WILSHIRE BOULEVARD<br />

Free downloadable<br />

podcasts highlighting<br />

<strong>the</strong> unique his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

of Wilshire Boulevard<br />

available at:<br />

ciclavia.org/podcasts


Major support for <strong>CicLAvia</strong>—Iconic Wilshire Boulevard<br />

has been provided by <strong>the</strong> Getty Foundation.<br />

<strong>CicLAvia</strong> PArtners<br />

CICLAVIA SUPPORTERS<br />

Goldhirsh Foundation<br />

Rosenthal Family Foundation<br />

The California Endowment<br />

Pirelli Tires<br />

Los Angeles County<br />

Bicycle Coalition<br />

Wasserman Foundation<br />

David Bohnett Foundation<br />

REI<br />

Designed by Colleen Corcoran<br />

Printed by Indie Printing<br />

© <strong>CicLAvia</strong> 2013<br />

<strong>CicLAvia</strong> sponsors<br />

The Ratkovich Company<br />

Millennium Hollywood<br />

Los Angeles Department of<br />

Water & Power<br />

Ralphs<br />

Sport Chalet<br />

Tern Bicycles<br />

Honorable Zev Yaroslavsky<br />

Ludlow Kingsley<br />

Indie Printing<br />

media PARTNERS<br />

KCRW 89.9<br />

Laemmle Theatres<br />

<strong>CicLAvia</strong> is a series of car-free, open<br />

streets events that temporarily<br />

transform select Los Angeles roadways<br />

in<strong>to</strong> innovative public spaces<br />

for all <strong>to</strong> enjoy.<br />

For a few hours on a Sunday, Angelenos are<br />

given <strong>the</strong> opportunity <strong>to</strong> experience new<br />

neighborhoods by foot, bike, rollerblades,<br />

skates or o<strong>the</strong>r forms of non-mo<strong>to</strong>rized<br />

transport. <strong>CicLAvia</strong> connects diverse communities<br />

and populations and underscores<br />

<strong>the</strong> possibility of a more pedestrian, bike,<br />

and public transit-friendly Los Angeles.<br />

<strong>CicLAvia</strong>—Iconic Wilshire Boulevard is part<br />

of Pacific Standard Time Presents: Modern<br />

Architecture in L.A. This collaboration,<br />

initiated by <strong>the</strong> Getty, is a celebration of<br />

Sou<strong>the</strong>rn California’s lasting impact on<br />

modern architecture. It includes exhibitions<br />

and accompanying programs presented<br />

by seventeen area cultural institutions from<br />

April through July 2013.


About <strong>the</strong> Podcast<br />

As part of Pacific Standard Time Presents: Modern<br />

Architecture in L.A., <strong>CicLAvia</strong> offers a series of free<br />

downloadable podcasts highlighting <strong>the</strong> unique his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

of Wilshire Boulevard. Created by noted architectural<br />

researcher and commenta<strong>to</strong>r Edward Lifson, <strong>the</strong> podcasts<br />

present a series of s<strong>to</strong>ries that take <strong>the</strong> listener from<br />

Wilshire’s humble beginnings more than a century ago<br />

<strong>to</strong> its distinctive focus on <strong>the</strong> modern era, and all <strong>the</strong><br />

way <strong>to</strong> its present-day state of revival with a new subway<br />

line, cutting-edge skyscrapers, LACMA’s radical new<br />

campus, and so much more. A diverse group of Angelenos<br />

share <strong>the</strong>ir dreams, challenges, failures and successes as<br />

Lifson examines <strong>the</strong> forces that have and continue <strong>to</strong> shape<br />

this <strong>iconic</strong> <strong>boulevard</strong>.<br />

DOWNLOAD FROM: ciclavia.org/podcasts<br />

The first <strong>CicLAvia</strong> on 10/10/10<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Gary Leonard.


Wilshire Boulevard, one of <strong>the</strong><br />

oldest thoroughfares in <strong>the</strong> city,<br />

is also <strong>the</strong> most dense and diverse.<br />

Its namesake is Henry Gaylord Wilshire, an<br />

eccentric “socialist-millionaire,” who subdivided<br />

35 acres of land west of Westlake Park<br />

(now MacArthur Park) in 1895. By <strong>the</strong> 1910s<br />

and 1920s, wealthy Angelenos were moving<br />

west <strong>to</strong> Wilshire. It soon became known for<br />

its au<strong>to</strong>-oriented amenities (including <strong>the</strong> first<br />

street lights and striped lanes) and high-rise<br />

apartment <strong>to</strong>wers. Dubbed <strong>the</strong> “Fifth Avenue<br />

of <strong>the</strong> West,” it became known as <strong>the</strong> most<br />

expensive street in LA. But by <strong>the</strong> late 1930s<br />

its eastern section had transformed in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

epicenter for depictions of lost hope and<br />

dashed dreams, entering <strong>the</strong> age of noir as<br />

Raymond Chandler and filmmakers set cynical<br />

scenes in <strong>the</strong> glow of roof<strong>to</strong>p neon along<br />

Wilshire’s 3.5 mile illuminated corridor.<br />

The focus of The Modernist’s Guide <strong>to</strong> Iconic<br />

Wilshire Boulevard recognizes this past, but in<br />

light of architectural developments from <strong>the</strong><br />

1940s <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>day. The urban space this <strong>CicLAvia</strong><br />

traverses has changed dramatically as <strong>the</strong><br />

result of shifting demographics, <strong>the</strong> impact<br />

of car culture, new technologies, and <strong>the</strong><br />

demands of new forms of capital investment<br />

and disinvestment. Overall, <strong>the</strong> era has been<br />

marked by mobility: of people and money.<br />

The postwar his<strong>to</strong>ry of this stretch of Wilshire<br />

has also been defined by community, where<br />

multilayered his<strong>to</strong>ries of this place and its<br />

many peoples (diverse in age, class, and<br />

ethnicity) are what make it matter <strong>to</strong>day and<br />

offer up a new set of icons <strong>to</strong> LA his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

Change on Wilshire hasn’t always been<br />

about replacement of <strong>the</strong> old with <strong>the</strong> new.<br />

Sometimes previous layers are still visible,<br />

though sometimes <strong>the</strong>ir remnants are largely<br />

invisible. Calling out <strong>the</strong> buildings still standing<br />

and <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ries of people and places long<br />

gone can still give us a deeper sense of place<br />

and his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

— Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Gudis


1. ONE WILSHIRE/DOWNTOWN LA<br />

Aerial view of down<strong>to</strong>wn Los Angeles; <strong>the</strong> One<br />

Wilshire building is in <strong>the</strong> foreground, 1975<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> from <strong>the</strong> Herald Examiner, 1975.<br />

Courtesy of <strong>the</strong> Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.


1 One Wilshire<br />

Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill, 1964<br />

624 S. Grand Ave.<br />

When this 30-s<strong>to</strong>ry office <strong>to</strong>wer was completed it<br />

became <strong>the</strong> tallest building around, its verticality a<br />

marker of soaring down<strong>to</strong>wn property values. By<br />

<strong>the</strong> mid 1980s, as businesses fled <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> suburbs,<br />

<strong>the</strong> building transformed in<strong>to</strong> a “telecommunications<br />

hotel”—a “palace of e<strong>the</strong>r”—where space continues<br />

<strong>to</strong> be leased for telecom, computing, and Internet<br />

equipment and services.<br />

2 General Petroleum/Pegasus<br />

Walter Wurdeman and Wel<strong>to</strong>n Becket, 1949<br />

731 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Named “Pegasus” for <strong>the</strong> Mobil Oil logo once on<br />

<strong>to</strong>p, this modern marvel showcases aluminum fin<br />

sunshades, accordion-fold windows, and open<br />

interiors. The building, now known as Pegasus<br />

Apartments, was converted <strong>to</strong> apartments in 2001<br />

through <strong>the</strong> City’s Adaptive Reuse Ordinance.<br />

2. GENERAL PETROLEUM/PEGASUS<br />

The largest office building in Sou<strong>the</strong>rn California when<br />

built at a cost of $11,000,000. Shown here shortly after<br />

its completion, 1949 Pho<strong>to</strong> from <strong>the</strong> Herald Examiner.<br />

Courtesy of <strong>the</strong> Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection


3. 110 harbor freeway<br />

Postcard showing <strong>the</strong> Harbor Freeway<br />

through Down<strong>to</strong>wn LA, c. 1960<br />

3 110 Harbor Freeway<br />

1952<br />

Carving a submerged path through down<strong>to</strong>wn,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Harbor Freeway connected with <strong>the</strong> West’s first<br />

freeway, <strong>the</strong> Arroyo Seco Parkway (1941) via <strong>the</strong><br />

“Four Level” (1949–53)—<strong>the</strong> first stack interchange in<br />

<strong>the</strong> world. It also fixed a boundary between <strong>the</strong> old<br />

eastern neighborhoods (including down<strong>to</strong>wn) and<br />

western LA, <strong>the</strong> new frontier of commerce and capital.<br />

4 Alvarado<br />

Spanning 6th St.—Wilshire Blvd.—7th St.<br />

Though street peddling of everything from tamales<br />

<strong>to</strong> newspapers has been intermittently banned in LA<br />

since at least 1906, this eastern edge of MacArthur<br />

Park has long been <strong>the</strong> center of <strong>the</strong> “geography of<br />

getting by.” A robust trade in everything from tube<br />

socks <strong>to</strong> second-hand goods <strong>to</strong> pupusas draws thousands<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> streets.<br />

4. Paleta sellers<br />

A view of two “Paleta” sellers with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

ice cream carts standing at <strong>the</strong> corner<br />

of 9th Street near MacArthur Park, 1986<br />

Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection


5 Westlake/MacArthur Park<br />

5. MacArthur Park<br />

Postcard showing Westlake Park<br />

by moonlight, c. 1930<br />

Westlake Park, created out of a mud pit and garbage<br />

dump, became a civic attraction by <strong>the</strong> turn of <strong>the</strong> twentieth<br />

century, and was ringed by grand structures serving<br />

city elite by <strong>the</strong> 1920s and 1930s. The 1934 viaduct<br />

connected Wilshire Blvd. <strong>to</strong> down<strong>to</strong>wn, permitting car<br />

travel right through <strong>the</strong> park. Yet by <strong>the</strong> time <strong>the</strong> park was<br />

renamed for General Douglas MacArthur in 1942, <strong>the</strong><br />

area around it was already considered an investment risk<br />

by federal housing agents that financed suburbanization.<br />

The park and its surrounding neighborhoods shifted with<br />

<strong>the</strong> times, serving diverse populations and orientations<br />

by <strong>the</strong> 1950s and 1960s, <strong>the</strong> tens of thousands of Central<br />

American immigrants fleeing civil wars and violence by<br />

<strong>the</strong> late 1970s and 1980s, and as a central locale for social<br />

services by <strong>the</strong> 1980s and 1990s, when it was also <strong>the</strong> hub<br />

for <strong>the</strong> LA drug market and gangs.<br />

Revitalization in decades since has come from <strong>the</strong> public<br />

art program of <strong>the</strong> 1980s, <strong>the</strong> 1996 completion of <strong>the</strong><br />

Metro line, down<strong>to</strong>wn’s renewed economic vitality, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> conversion of commercial buildings in<strong>to</strong> housing.<br />

The park’s recreation center, soccer fields, and informal<br />

economy of vending have res<strong>to</strong>red its dense utilization.<br />

The his<strong>to</strong>ric bandshell—originally built in1896, replaced in<br />

1957, and a modern icon in part for hosting break dancers<br />

and hip hop artists in <strong>the</strong> 1980s—was res<strong>to</strong>red in 2007<br />

and hosts regular concerts. Throughout this time, <strong>the</strong> park<br />

has continued <strong>to</strong> host May Day ga<strong>the</strong>rings and serve as a<br />

rallying point for parades, strikes, and boycotts.


6 Westlake Theatre<br />

Richard Bates, 1926; S. Charles Lee, 1936<br />

636 S. Alvarado St.<br />

The nearly 2,000-seat <strong>the</strong>ater (operating until 1991)<br />

broadcast its offerings with an intact three-s<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

neon sign. Bustling with activity as a swap meet, <strong>the</strong><br />

Community Redevelopment Agency (CRA) purchased<br />

<strong>the</strong> building in order <strong>to</strong> res<strong>to</strong>re it; with <strong>the</strong> CRA’s disbanding,<br />

future plans are not clear. On <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

wall is a mural by Hec<strong>to</strong>r Ponce, Los Angeles Teachers<br />

(1997), featuring Jaime Escalante and <strong>the</strong> man who<br />

portrayed him in <strong>the</strong> movies, Edward James Olmos.<br />

6. WESTLAKE THEATRE SIGN<br />

Detail of roof<strong>to</strong>p neon sign<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />

7 Langer’s Delicatessen<br />

Unknown architect, 1932 704 S. Alvarado St.<br />

Al and Jean Langer opened <strong>the</strong>ir delicatessen in<br />

1947 and it has been an LA institution since, now also<br />

offering curbside service. Even by 1947, <strong>the</strong> Jewish<br />

population, which had peaked in this area in <strong>the</strong><br />

late 1920s, was heading west or <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> suburbs. Yet<br />

<strong>the</strong> Langer’s continued <strong>to</strong> serve this neighborhood.<br />

Langer’s still wins prizes around <strong>the</strong> world for its<br />

mile-high, $14 pastrami sandwich, though as you<br />

walk in you are more likely <strong>to</strong> hear Nuahuatl than<br />

Yiddish spoken.<br />

LANGER’S 7. DELICATESSEN<br />

Entrance and sign on 7th Street<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.


8 Chouinard Institute of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Arts/Korean New Times<br />

Presbyterian Church<br />

Morgan, Walls, and Clements, 1929<br />

743 S. Grand View St.<br />

Founded in 1921 as a progressive art school, it<br />

merged in 1969 with Walt and Roy Disney’s CalArts,<br />

and moved <strong>to</strong> Valencia. From 1972 until it became a<br />

church in 1974, <strong>the</strong> Woman’s Building operated here.<br />

In recent years Workers’ Meeting (1932), <strong>the</strong> first of<br />

three controversial murals David Alfaro Siquieros completed<br />

in LA, was discovered beneath layers of paint<br />

in <strong>the</strong> church’s kitchen.<br />

9 Radiotron<br />

9. radiotron<br />

Graffiti art decorates walls of <strong>the</strong><br />

community center, 1985<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> from <strong>the</strong> Herald Examiner.<br />

Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.<br />

Building no longer extant<br />

715 S. Park View St.<br />

Carmelo Alvarez ran <strong>the</strong> Youth Break Center at<br />

Radiotron from 1983 <strong>to</strong> 1985, as a safe social space for<br />

kids <strong>to</strong> breakdance, do graffiti, MC, and DJ. It became<br />

<strong>the</strong> focal point for early hip hop culture on <strong>the</strong> West<br />

Coast and center <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> first Graffiti Art Crews in<br />

LA. When <strong>the</strong> building was razed in 1985, activities<br />

from <strong>the</strong> youth center moved <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> bandshell in<br />

MacArthur Park.


10 American Cement Building<br />

DMJM, 1964<br />

2404 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

A dramatic use of concrete intended <strong>to</strong> promote<br />

<strong>the</strong> American Cement company, <strong>the</strong> latticework of<br />

two-<strong>to</strong>n cast concrete “X”s supports <strong>the</strong> building<br />

from <strong>the</strong> outside, leaving interiors free of supporting<br />

beams—great for <strong>the</strong> 71 live/work lofts now occupying<br />

<strong>the</strong> space.<br />

10. AMERICAN CEMENT BUILDING<br />

On Park View looking <strong>to</strong>ward Wilshire, 1960<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Julius Shulman. Copyright J. Paul Getty Trust.<br />

11 Otis Art Institute/Charles<br />

White Elementary School<br />

William L. Pereira, 1957<br />

2401 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

LA Times publisher Harrison Gray Otis built <strong>the</strong><br />

first residence on Wilshire Blvd. here in 1898, and<br />

bequea<strong>the</strong>d it <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> county for an art school in 1917.<br />

The Otis Art Institute, which operated on this site<br />

from 1918 until 1997, demolished <strong>the</strong> Otis residence<br />

<strong>to</strong> create <strong>the</strong> school campus that still stands <strong>to</strong>day.<br />

Though acting as an elementary school since 2004,<br />

<strong>the</strong> west wall still hosts a mural by Kent Twitchell,<br />

The Holy Trinity (with TV stars from Lassie, The Lone<br />

Ranger, and Fa<strong>the</strong>r Knows Best used as models).


12 Elks Lodge/Park Plaza<br />

Curlett and Beelman, 1925 607 S. Park View St.<br />

Originally a private social hall for civic elite, this facility<br />

had it all, including a pool, bowling alley, gym, and<br />

169 hotel rooms. When membership dwindled in <strong>the</strong><br />

1960s, <strong>the</strong> building was sold, and served as a YMCA,<br />

a retirement hotel, and a rental hall, where scores of<br />

Angelenos remember it for events in <strong>the</strong> 1980s, from<br />

quinceañeras <strong>to</strong> punk rock concerts. Now its ground<br />

floors are refurbished and used for events and filming.<br />

12. ELKS LODGE/PARK PLAZA<br />

Exterior statues of angels appear on<br />

every corner of <strong>the</strong> building<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />

13<br />

Iconic Queer Culture<br />

Park Theater<br />

John S. Austin, 1914;<br />

S. Charles Lee, 1935<br />

710 S. Alvarado St.<br />

14<br />

Silver Platter<br />

Unknown architect, 1923<br />

2700 W. 7th St.<br />

In 1968, films by Kenneth Anger, Andy Warhol, Jack<br />

Smith, and Pat Rocco—all using queer <strong>the</strong>mes and<br />

imagery—launched <strong>the</strong> cultural programming that<br />

would make <strong>the</strong> Park one of <strong>the</strong> first commercial<br />

<strong>the</strong>aters in <strong>the</strong> nation <strong>to</strong> openly present homoerotic<br />

film fare. The Silver Platter, opened in 1963 by Rogelio<br />

Ramirez, is likely <strong>the</strong> oldest continuously operating<br />

gay bar in LA. It is <strong>the</strong> subject of a 2012 documentary<br />

film, Wildness, by Wu Tsang. O<strong>the</strong>r his<strong>to</strong>ric gay and<br />

lesbian bars in <strong>the</strong> area (gone now) include <strong>the</strong> Brass<br />

Spurr, Lakeshore, and Fallen Angel.


15 Lafayette Park Senior Citizen<br />

Center/Lafayette Park<br />

Recreation Center<br />

Graham Latta, 1963; Stephen Kanner/Kanner<br />

Architects, 2011 625 South Lafayette Park Place<br />

Barrel-arched concrete canopies still define <strong>the</strong><br />

former senior center on <strong>the</strong> east side of Lafayette Park,<br />

now augmented by 15,000-square feet of light-filled<br />

classroom and gymnasium space. The center and <strong>the</strong><br />

park are anchored by HOLA (Heart of Los Angeles),<br />

which provides underserved youth with programs<br />

in academics, arts, and athletics and welcomes <strong>the</strong><br />

“regulars”—a mixed-age assortment of families, soccer<br />

players, and vendors<br />

16 CNA Insurance/Los Angeles<br />

Superior Court Building<br />

Langdon and Wilson Architects;<br />

landscape architect, Emmet L. Wemple, 1972<br />

600 Commonwealth Ave.<br />

The 19-s<strong>to</strong>ry glass slab is shea<strong>the</strong>d in a mirrored skin<br />

comprised of over 5,000 individual panels that reflect<br />

<strong>the</strong> changing sky and surroundings with <strong>the</strong> effect of<br />

an impressionist painting. One of twenty-seven office<br />

buildings on Wilshire designed by Langdon and<br />

Wilson, it was intended <strong>to</strong> enhance <strong>the</strong> park at its side.<br />

15. HEART OF LA<br />

Mural by HOLA students<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> courtesy of HOLA.<br />

16. Los Angeles Superior<br />

Court Building<br />

Waves of granite panels at <strong>the</strong> plaza level<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.


LA BREA<br />

LARCHMONT<br />

ROSSMORE<br />

HIGHLAND<br />

FAIRFAX<br />

MCCADEN<br />

SANTA MONICA<br />

Route for <strong>CicLAvia</strong> — Iconic Wilshire Boulevard June 23, 2013<br />

MELROSE<br />

MELROSE<br />

BEVERLY<br />

BEVERLY<br />

Vermont/<br />

Beverly<br />

SUNSET<br />

ECHO PARK<br />

may co.<br />

lacma<br />

37 35 34 33<br />

36<br />

HAUSER<br />

OLYMPIC<br />

VENICE<br />

3RD<br />

6TH<br />

32<br />

LA BREA<br />

LA BREA<br />

HIGHLAND<br />

31<br />

RIMPAU<br />

WEST<br />

SCOTTISH RITE<br />

MASONIC TEMPLE<br />

WILSHIRE<br />

THE HOUSE<br />

OF TOMORROW<br />

30<br />

29<br />

CRENSHAW<br />

28<br />

ARLINGTON<br />

6TH<br />

WILTON<br />

WESTERN<br />

Wilshire/<br />

Western<br />

27<br />

WESTERN<br />

3RD<br />

OLYMPIC<br />

PICO<br />

VENICE<br />

NORMANDIE<br />

25 23 21<br />

NORMANDIE<br />

20<br />

WASHINGTON<br />

VERMONT<br />

Wilshire/<br />

Vermont<br />

26 24 22 19 18<br />

Wilshire/<br />

Normandie<br />

wiltern<br />

bullocks<br />

<strong>the</strong>ater 8TH<br />

<strong>wilshire</strong><br />

VERMONT<br />

VIRGIL<br />

3RD<br />

HOOVER<br />

TEMPLE<br />

BEVERLY<br />

ALVARADO<br />

RAMPART<br />

VENICE<br />

PICO<br />

8TH<br />

OLYMPIC<br />

110<br />

101<br />

ALVARADO<br />

macarthur<br />

16 15 park<br />

12<br />

17 14 11<br />

10 5<br />

6<br />

4<br />

9<br />

8 7<br />

13 Westlake/<br />

MacArthur<br />

Park<br />

6TH<br />

7TH<br />

3RD<br />

1ST<br />

WILSHIRE<br />

FIGUEROA<br />

Pico<br />

GLENDALE<br />

ONE<br />

WILSHIRE<br />

FLOWER<br />

3<br />

GRAND<br />

7th Street/<br />

Metro Center<br />

HILL<br />

2<br />

MAIN<br />

1<br />

SUNSET<br />

Pershing<br />

Square<br />

<strong>CicLAvia</strong> Route<br />

Metro Rail Stations<br />

ADAMS<br />

ADAMS<br />

23rd<br />

Street<br />

Grand<br />

WASHINGTON<br />

10


17 High Society<br />

Unknown architect, 1905<br />

2974 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

In 1968, Richard Lim opened one of <strong>the</strong> first Korean<br />

businesses on Wilshire Blvd., a tailor shop that catered<br />

<strong>to</strong> a largely Korean immigrant population, whose<br />

numbers had risen after <strong>the</strong> passage of <strong>the</strong> 1965<br />

Hart-Cellar Act (lifting immigration quotas, especially<br />

for Asians, and urging entry by professionals and<br />

families). Word of Lim’s quality “bespoke” suits (handmade<br />

<strong>to</strong> order) quickly reached Hollywood elite. It<br />

remains in continuous operation.<br />

18. bullocks <strong>wilshire</strong><br />

View of 241-foot copper-shea<strong>the</strong>d <strong>to</strong>wer<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley<br />

18 Bullocks Wilshire/<br />

Southwestern Law School<br />

John and Donald Parkinson, 1929<br />

3050 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

This landmark Art Deco building was among <strong>the</strong> first<br />

department s<strong>to</strong>res <strong>to</strong> move out of down<strong>to</strong>wn, catering<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> car with a porte cochere at <strong>the</strong> rear. Closed after<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1992 Rodney King uprising as business and <strong>the</strong><br />

surrounding neighborhood declined, <strong>the</strong> building<br />

was purchased by Southwestern Law School. It <strong>to</strong>ok<br />

$29 million and many years <strong>to</strong> res<strong>to</strong>re and adaptively<br />

reuse <strong>the</strong> building.


19 Ambassador Hotel/<br />

Robert F. Kennedy (RFK)<br />

Community Schools<br />

Original Myron Hunt/Paul Williams buildings no<br />

longer extant; Gonzalez Goodale Architects, 2010<br />

3400 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

The icon of Hollywood glamour and nightlife and<br />

primary driver of Wilshire Blvd. development in <strong>the</strong><br />

1920s, <strong>the</strong> Ambassador was demolished in 2007 <strong>to</strong><br />

make way for a school complex. The original white<br />

plaster driveway pylons are among <strong>the</strong> few remnants.<br />

Street-side contemporary artwork by May Sun and<br />

Richard Wyatt incorporates quotes by RFK, who was<br />

assassinated inside <strong>the</strong> hotel in 1968.<br />

19. AMBASSADOR HOTEL<br />

Color postcard showing interior courtyard<br />

Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection<br />

20 Equitable Plaza<br />

Wel<strong>to</strong>n Becket and Associates, 1969<br />

3435 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Once <strong>the</strong> site of <strong>the</strong> Brown Derby (whose brown rim<br />

and rounded crown now houses The Red, a bar at<br />

across <strong>the</strong> street at 3377 Wilshire), this was <strong>the</strong> 25th<br />

building by Becket on Wilshire. Like most of <strong>the</strong><br />

office buildings in Mid-Wilshire, it is owned by Korean<br />

American physician David Lee’s Jamison Services,<br />

which started acquiring properties when values plummeted<br />

after <strong>the</strong> 1992 uprisings.<br />

20. <strong>the</strong> brown derby<br />

Exterior of <strong>the</strong> famous “derby-shaped” at <strong>the</strong><br />

Wilshire Boulevard Brown Derby location, 1957<br />

Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection


21. tishman <strong>to</strong>wers<br />

Triplet highrise <strong>to</strong>wers Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />

21 Mid-Century Tishman<br />

Developed Properties<br />

Tishman Plaza<br />

Claud Beelman, 1952<br />

3440–3450–3460 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Tishman-Shera<strong>to</strong>n Wilshire Hotel/<br />

The Line Wilshire Hotel<br />

DMJM, 1964<br />

3515 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Tishman Towers/NY Life-Saehan Bank<br />

Vic<strong>to</strong>r Gruen, 1956<br />

3540–3550 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Envisioning Wilshire as <strong>the</strong> new New York, developer<br />

William Tishman aimed “<strong>to</strong> overcome <strong>the</strong><br />

Los Angeles spread” with corporate modernist<br />

high-rise <strong>to</strong>wers designed by <strong>the</strong> biggest names<br />

in architecture. Tishman defined both <strong>the</strong> midcentury<br />

design direction and <strong>the</strong> corporatization<br />

of Wilshire with Fortune 500 companies.


22 Travelers Insurance<br />

Company<br />

Wel<strong>to</strong>n Becket and Associates, 1961<br />

3600 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Blue ceramic tiles grace <strong>the</strong> façade, while <strong>the</strong> lobby<br />

features a 4-part, 57-foot long colored mosaic<br />

glass mural abstractly depicting “man’s life span”<br />

by Bauhaus émigré Gyorgy Kepes.<br />

22. tRAVELERS INSURANCE COMPANY<br />

Gyorgy Kepes mural detail Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />

23 St. Basil Catholic Church<br />

A.C. Martin and Associates, 1969<br />

3611 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Multi-faceted concrete <strong>to</strong>wers are knit <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r with<br />

Cubistic, metal-framed shards of kaleidoscopic<br />

stained glass by Claire Falkenstein, whose webbed<br />

abstractions wrought in metal also cover <strong>the</strong><br />

entry doors.<br />

23. st. BASIL CHURCH<br />

Detail of stained-glass windows created<br />

by sculp<strong>to</strong>r Claire Falkenstein<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.


24 Wilshire Park<br />

Place-Beneficial Plaza/<br />

Radio Korea Building<br />

Gordon Bunshaft and E. Charles Bassett for<br />

Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill, 1967<br />

3700 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

The front plaza’s block-long and acre-wide lawn (with<br />

a grove of Canary Island pines in <strong>the</strong> center) was<br />

intended <strong>to</strong> enhance <strong>the</strong> city’s green civic space in<br />

an era of suburbanization. It hosts scores of Sunday<br />

skateboarders drawn <strong>to</strong> its concrete ramps.<br />

25 Ahmanson Center/<br />

Wilshire Colonnade<br />

Edward Durell S<strong>to</strong>ne, 1967<br />

3701 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

A modernist interpretation of a classical marble<br />

colonnade flanking a public place and punctuated<br />

with orbed light fixtures. It is home <strong>to</strong>day <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

nation’s largest Korean American bank.<br />

25. AHMANSON CENTER/WILSHIRE COLONADE<br />

Interior courtyard light fixture<br />

Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.


26 Pellissier Building and<br />

Wiltern Theater<br />

Morgan, Walls, and Clements, 1931;<br />

res<strong>to</strong>ration, Brenda Levin, 1981<br />

3780 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Saved from demolition in 1980, this Art Deco icon<br />

in green terracotta houses architects, cultural organizations,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bus Riders Union, and even <strong>CicLAvia</strong>’s<br />

headquarters alongside <strong>the</strong> 2,300 seat Wiltern<br />

Theater. Here at <strong>the</strong> corner of Wilshire and Western<br />

where mixed-use development, Metro and Rapid<br />

lines merge, one can truly sense <strong>the</strong> enormous<br />

mass transit system of Los Angeles belying LA’s<br />

car-centric reputation.<br />

27 St. James Episcopal Church<br />

26. wiltern <strong>the</strong>ater<br />

View from Wilshire/Western Metro<br />

Station across Wilshire<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Aaron Paley.<br />

Benjamin G. McDougall, 1925 3903 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Among <strong>the</strong> famous members of <strong>the</strong> congregation<br />

was jazz musician and singer Nat King Cole, who in<br />

1946 was <strong>the</strong> first black performing artist <strong>to</strong> sponsor<br />

his own radio program and <strong>the</strong> first in 1956 <strong>to</strong> host<br />

his own television show. Similarly, Cole’s family<br />

broke color barriers when <strong>the</strong>y first began attending<br />

services at <strong>the</strong> church. Cole’s televised funeral here<br />

in 1965 included celebrities Duke Elling<strong>to</strong>n, Robert F.<br />

Kennedy, and Frank Sinatra.


28 Tidewater (Getty) Oil/<br />

Harbor Building<br />

Claud Beelman, 1958<br />

4201 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> polished black granite base (apropos <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

petroleum company that built it) rises a striking white<br />

marble façade divided by vertically extending stainless<br />

steel spandrels. It was <strong>the</strong> largest office building<br />

in Sou<strong>the</strong>rn California when built.<br />

29 Wilshire Twilighter Hotel/<br />

Dunes Inn Wilshire<br />

Sam Reisbord and Associates, 1958<br />

4300 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

The three-s<strong>to</strong>ry, brick-clad cylindrical stairwell defines<br />

<strong>the</strong> carport for this low-rise modernist hotel (one of<br />

<strong>the</strong> few remaining with intact exteriors, and <strong>the</strong> only<br />

one on Wilshire). The circular motif continues in <strong>the</strong><br />

canopy cu<strong>to</strong>uts for light fixtures.<br />

29. DUNES INN<br />

Nor<strong>the</strong>astern side of <strong>the</strong> 100-room, 3-s<strong>to</strong>ry Wilshire Dunes<br />

Mo<strong>to</strong>r Hotel, later renamed <strong>the</strong> Dunes Inn, 1978<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Anne Laskey. Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection


30 Scottish Rite Masonic Temple<br />

Millard Sheets, 1961<br />

4357 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Eight groups of massive cast cement sculptures and<br />

glittering mosaics on <strong>the</strong> exteriors depict his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />

Masonic <strong>the</strong>mes. Millard Sheets, <strong>the</strong> architect of this<br />

building, was direc<strong>to</strong>r of Otis Art Institute from 1953-<br />

1959, and his work as a mosaic muralist can be seen<br />

throughout Los Angeles.<br />

30. SCOTTISH RITE TEMPLE STATUE<br />

Close-up of <strong>the</strong> “Hiram” statue by Albert Stewart,<br />

located on sou<strong>the</strong>rn façade, 1978 Pho<strong>to</strong> by Anne Laskey.<br />

1978 Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection<br />

31 The Post-War House/<br />

The House of Tomorrow/<br />

Leaders Academy (school)<br />

Wurdeman and Becket, 1946<br />

4950 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Designed as a showcase for modern living, this<br />

“research house”—with built-ins and high-tech<br />

domestic wonders (like an air purifier called <strong>the</strong><br />

“Precipitron”)—was <strong>the</strong> brainchild of tract-home<br />

builder Fritz B. Burns, who opened it in 1946 and<br />

charged $1 admission. It reopened in 1951 as <strong>the</strong><br />

House of Tomorrow, and hosted a million visi<strong>to</strong>rs.<br />

31. <strong>the</strong> house of <strong>to</strong>morrow<br />

Artist’s concept sketch, 1947<br />

Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.


32 Lee Tower<br />

W. Douglas Lee and D. Everett Lee, 1957–58<br />

5455 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

At 22 s<strong>to</strong>ries, this is <strong>the</strong> first skyscraper built in LA<br />

after <strong>the</strong> relaxation of <strong>the</strong> 150’ height limit ordinance.<br />

The <strong>to</strong>wer became a beacon for a future distinct from<br />

<strong>the</strong> Art Deco, Moderne, and Spanish Colonial Revival<br />

styles defining <strong>the</strong> Miracle Mile from La Brea <strong>to</strong> Fairfax.<br />

33 Prudential/Museum Square<br />

Wurdeman and Becket, 1948<br />

5757 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Covering two city blocks and 517,000-square feet of<br />

office and retail space, this International Style complex<br />

changed Miracle Mile from a shopping location <strong>to</strong> a<br />

white-collar office district, even though one wing held<br />

Ohrbach’s department s<strong>to</strong>re until 1965. It marks <strong>the</strong><br />

apo<strong>the</strong>osis of a mile-long commercial area dubbed<br />

a miracle when A. W. Ross developed it from fields of<br />

barley and wheat punctuated by oil derricks in<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1920s.<br />

33. prudential building<br />

Looking northwest from across Wilshire, 1978<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Anne Laskey. Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong><br />

Collection.


34. LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART<br />

Main entrance, c. 1965<br />

Copyright 2013 Museum Associates/LACMA, pho<strong>to</strong>graphic archives.<br />

35. MAY CO./LACMA west<br />

Corner view of “perfume bottle” entrance, 1947<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Julius Shulman. Copyright J. Paul Getty Trust.<br />

34 Los Angeles County Museum<br />

of Art (LACMA)<br />

William L. Pereira and Associates, 1965;<br />

Hardy Holzman Pfeiffer, 1986 5905 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Though 1980s additions make it hard <strong>to</strong> discern, <strong>the</strong><br />

museum was originally three pavilion-like structures on<br />

a reinforced concrete slab that seemed <strong>to</strong> float above<br />

pools of water (cemented after subterranean tar began<br />

bubbling <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> surface). Plans are for a new glass<br />

building by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor <strong>to</strong> replace<br />

<strong>the</strong>se, though Bruce Goff’s 1988 Pavilion for Japanese<br />

Art as well as o<strong>the</strong>r, newer buildings would remain.<br />

35 Wilshire May Co./<br />

Future Home of Academy<br />

Museum of Motion Pictures<br />

A. C. Martin and Samuel A. Marx, 1940<br />

6067 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

Ground-hugging horizontality is offset by <strong>the</strong> blackand-gold<br />

cylindrical “perfume bottle” at <strong>the</strong> corner<br />

of this Streamline Moderne gem, which, when<br />

opened, was <strong>to</strong>uted as “The S<strong>to</strong>re of Tomorrow.”<br />

Owned by LACMA since 1994, it will house <strong>the</strong><br />

Academy Museum of Motion Pictures which will<br />

open <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> public in 2017.


36 Seibu/Ohrbach’s/Petersen<br />

Au<strong>to</strong>motive Museum<br />

Wel<strong>to</strong>n Becket and Associates, 1962;<br />

Russell Group, 1994<br />

6060 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

The first Japanese department s<strong>to</strong>re in <strong>the</strong> nation<br />

was also <strong>the</strong> last department s<strong>to</strong>re <strong>to</strong> be built on <strong>the</strong><br />

Miracle Mile. Its roof<strong>to</strong>p glass pavilion served as a<br />

teahouse, surrounded by a Japanese garden and<br />

reflecting pool. In 1994 <strong>the</strong> museum renovated <strong>the</strong><br />

building and added car-wash styled fins.<br />

37 Romeo’s Times Square/<br />

Johnie’s Coffee Shop<br />

Helen Fong for Armét and Davis, 1955<br />

6101 Wilshire Blvd.<br />

First an airfield, <strong>the</strong>n an early drive-in restaurant<br />

named Simon’s, and now one of <strong>the</strong> few remaining<br />

“Googie”-style coffee shops in <strong>the</strong> city. Johnie’s<br />

spectacular neon signage, dramatically upswung<br />

roof, and sheer expanse of plate glass facing <strong>the</strong> road<br />

(<strong>to</strong> display brightly-colored interiors and <strong>to</strong> offer a<br />

moving picture <strong>to</strong> diners) drew cus<strong>to</strong>mers until 2000,<br />

when it was closed.<br />

37. JOHNIE’S COFFEE SHOP<br />

Exterior view of <strong>the</strong> “Googie”-style entrance and sign, 1978<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong> by Anne Laskey. Courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library Pho<strong>to</strong> Collection.


Research and writing by Ca<strong>the</strong>rine Gudis based on sources<br />

including <strong>the</strong> Los Angeles Conservancy’s curating<strong>the</strong>city.org,<br />

Wilshire Boulevard: The Grand Concourse of Los Angeles,<br />

A People’s Guide <strong>to</strong> Los Angeles, and Cruising <strong>the</strong> Archive:<br />

Queer Art and Culture in LA, 1945–80.<br />

Opening in 2017<br />

Wilshire May<br />

Company Building<br />

at Fairfax Avenue<br />

www.oscars.org/<br />

museum

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