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How to Read a Weaving Draft and How to Read a Tartan Pattern

How to Read a Weaving Draft and How to Read a Tartan Pattern

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<strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Read</strong> a <strong>Weaving</strong> <strong>Draft</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Read</strong> a<br />

<strong>Tartan</strong> <strong>Pattern</strong><br />

<strong>Read</strong>ing a <strong>Weaving</strong> <strong>Draft</strong><br />

A draft is made up of 4 parts <strong>and</strong> is illustrated in a table divided in<strong>to</strong> quadrants.<br />

The upper left quadrant shows how the sheds are <strong>to</strong> be threaded. This is a pattern for<br />

4 sheds.<br />

The upper right quadrant shows what combination of shafts <strong>to</strong> raise at the same time.<br />

In this case, you will only raise one shaft at a time.<br />

The lower right quadrant shows in what order <strong>to</strong> open the shafts.<br />

The lower left quadrant shows the draw down or what the pattern will look like. The<br />

draw down is not always shown, sometimes this quadrant is omitted from the pattern.<br />

<strong>How</strong> <strong>to</strong> read a <strong>Tartan</strong> Sett<br />

Black Watch (Mirrored Sett)<br />

B22<br />

K2<br />

B2<br />

K2<br />

B2


K16<br />

G16<br />

K2<br />

G16<br />

K16<br />

B16<br />

K2<br />

B2<br />

This is the pattern for the Black Watch <strong>Tartan</strong>. The letters refer <strong>to</strong> colors (B = blue, K<br />

= black, G = green) The numbers refer <strong>to</strong> how many threads of that color are used at<br />

a time. This tartan like many others has a mirrored pattern, which means that you<br />

start with B22 <strong>and</strong> work down through the last B2, then instead of starting over from<br />

the <strong>to</strong>p, you reverse the pattern <strong>and</strong> begin working up from the bot<strong>to</strong>m back <strong>to</strong> the<br />

<strong>to</strong>p <strong>and</strong> then start down again. The pattern pivots on the B2 at the bot<strong>to</strong>m <strong>and</strong> the<br />

B22 at the <strong>to</strong>p, you do not repeat the first <strong>and</strong> last colors when you change directions.<br />

This pattern is followed for both the warp <strong>and</strong> the weft.<br />

For a larger plaid pattern, double the number of threads from what is shown in the<br />

pattern. For a smaller plaid pattern, half the number of threads from what is shown<br />

in the pattern.<br />

<strong>Tartan</strong>s are woven in 2/2 Twill. They should be as closely woven as possible <strong>to</strong> make<br />

the pattern as square as possible. Use heavy tension on the loom. If possible, use a<br />

temple <strong>to</strong> keep the cloth spread the full width of the reed. Wetting the cloth after it is<br />

woven may help nudge the threads in<strong>to</strong> even position with each other.<br />

St<strong>and</strong>ard List of Colors<br />

A = Light Blue (Azure)<br />

B = Blue<br />

C = Rose<br />

D = Dark (+ color)<br />

G = Green<br />

K = Black<br />

L = Light (+ color)<br />

Lil = Lilac<br />

Lv = Lavender<br />

Ma = Magenta<br />

Mn = Maroon<br />

N = Grey (Neutral)<br />

P = Purple<br />

R = Scarlet (red)<br />

T = Brown (tan)<br />

W = White<br />

Y = Yellow


Bibliography<br />

Ch<strong>and</strong>ler, Deborah. Learning <strong>to</strong> Weave. Lovel<strong>and</strong>, Co: Interweave Press. 1995. ISBN<br />

1-883010-03-9<br />

Clan Heritage - www.tartangenera<strong>to</strong>r.com<br />

Scarlett, James D. The <strong>Tartan</strong> Weaver's Guide. London: Shepheard- Walwyn 1985<br />

ISBN 0-85683-078-X<br />

Unless otherwise noted, all text is copyright 2004 P. Girard<br />

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