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travel<br />

<strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong><br />

May/June/July 2012<br />

GREEK<br />

ODYSSEY<br />

Get the locals’ lowdown<br />

and get off the beaten track<br />

LEG WORK<br />

The Italian spa<br />

that promises<br />

perfect pins<br />

24-HOUR<br />

PARTY PEOPLE<br />

DJs, celebs and party<br />

pros tell us where they’ll<br />

be clubbing this summer<br />

Your<br />

essential<br />

guide to<br />

ANTALYA,<br />

TURKEY


INSIDER GUIDE<br />

The best places to eat, sleep and play in <strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong><br />

destinations. This issue, <strong>Antalya</strong>, Turkey<br />

ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE<br />

<strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Travel<br />

31


Turkish delight<br />

With its turquoise coves,<br />

honey-hued beaches and<br />

sublime seafood, this strip of<br />

coastline is nicknamed the<br />

“Turkish <strong>Riviera</strong>” with good<br />

reason, says Kathryn <strong>Tomasetti</strong><br />

T<br />

UCKED BETWEEN THE TAURUS<br />

Mountains and the Mediterranean Sea,<br />

<strong>Antalya</strong> is southern Turkey’s cosmopolitan<br />

capital, making it a perfect city break<br />

destination, as well as a staging post for those making<br />

longer trips in the south. Kaleiçi, its enchanting<br />

Ottoman Old Town, is a leap back in time. The city’s chic,<br />

modern streets are dotted with picturesque teahouses,<br />

courtyard eateries and sun-dappled nargile (shisha<br />

pipe) cafés. Year-round temperatures range from mild<br />

to sultry – but rarely does relaxed <strong>Antalya</strong> break a<br />

metaphorical sweat.<br />

Spiralling outwards from the city, visitors will stumble<br />

across sleepy fishing villages, family-friendly resorts,<br />

deserted coves, teetering cliffs and many a Roman ruin.<br />

These fertile lands are a veritable patchwork of produce,<br />

thick with veggie gardens, citrus trees and pomegranate<br />

orchards. <strong>Antalya</strong>’s proximity to the Mediterranean’s<br />

open waters means sea bass, bream and mussels hit<br />

diners’ plates ultra-fresh – although heartier eaters<br />

can of course tuck into traditional Turkish dishes – think<br />

herb-laden skewers of lamb or doner kebabs.<br />

Staggeringly, <strong>Antalya</strong> is the fourth most-visited city in<br />

the world. And with four-hour flights from the UK to this<br />

sunny Shangri-la, it’s a safe bet you’ll be tempted, too.<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

From fancy to child-friendly<br />

accommodation, <strong>Antalya</strong> boasts<br />

it all. Some 50km east of the<br />

airport is the LykiaWorld <strong>Antalya</strong>,<br />

where you can go royal in a<br />

Sultan Suite kitted out with three<br />

bedrooms, a private jacuzzi and<br />

sea views. There’s beach volleyball,<br />

windsurfing, spa treatments and<br />

yoga to keep you in shape.<br />

Outside of the picturesque town<br />

of Side (70km east of <strong>Antalya</strong>),<br />

Paloma Oceana reopens its doors<br />

in June after a major refurbishment.<br />

The hotel’s new concept blends<br />

sleek bungalow buildings with an<br />

Ottoman-style pool bar nestled<br />

in lush Mediterranean gardens.<br />

Travelling with water babies? The<br />

Royal Wings Hotel, just 17km from<br />

the airport on the endless sands<br />

of Lara Beach, will fit the bill. Its<br />

awesome on-site aqua park hosts<br />

32 <strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Travel


<strong>Antalya</strong>, Turkey<br />

Insider guide<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY: TIM WHITE<br />

a colourful knot of jumbo water<br />

slides, its own wave pool and an allsummer-long<br />

funfair.<br />

For those after a taste of the<br />

city proper, it’s hard to beat the<br />

Hillside Su Hotel, a short walk<br />

from the city centre. This five-star<br />

beauty boasts a blue-flagged<br />

beach, a magnificent pool (with an<br />

underwater sound system), several<br />

restaurants including a sushi bar, a<br />

sports centre for the active and the<br />

fabulous Sanda Spa for the less so.<br />

BY THE SEASIDE<br />

With <strong>Antalya</strong>’s postcard-perfect<br />

position on the Mediterranean,<br />

you’ll spend most of your holiday<br />

near – or actually submerged in –<br />

the sparkling sea. For a day on the<br />

waves, make a beeline for <strong>Antalya</strong>’s<br />

harbour. Dozens of traditional<br />

wooden gulet boats organise<br />

outings along the coast: day trips<br />

take in the magnificent Düden<br />

Left: locals take<br />

in <strong>Antalya</strong>’s<br />

distinctive<br />

architecture.<br />

Above: Konyaalti<br />

beach, with<br />

the dramatic<br />

backdrop of<br />

the Beydaglari<br />

Mountains<br />

Waterfalls near Belek, about 14km<br />

northeast of <strong>Antalya</strong>. Prices start at<br />

around £25 per person, including a<br />

tasty barbeque lunch.<br />

Landlubbers will have just as<br />

much fun on <strong>Antalya</strong>’s city beaches.<br />

The 8km-long, shingle beach of<br />

Konyaaltı sits just west of the city<br />

centre, backed by the dramatic<br />

Beydagları Mountains. Lara Beach,<br />

about 12km to <strong>Antalya</strong>’s east, is<br />

fringed by deep golden sands that<br />

stretch as far as the eye can see.<br />

<strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Travel<br />

33


Insider guide<br />

<strong>Antalya</strong>, Turkey<br />

Clockwise from top left: traditional<br />

music will soundtrack your exploration<br />

of <strong>Antalya</strong>; the Old Town, Kaleiçi,<br />

is a shopper’s paradise; the mighty<br />

Hadrian’s Gate; colourful examples of<br />

local craftsmanship<br />

MUST-SEE<br />

The city’s walled Old Town, Kaleiçi,<br />

is <strong>Antalya</strong>’s historic heart. Enter<br />

through Hadrian Kapısı (Hadrian’s<br />

Gate), an ornate triple archway<br />

built when Emperor Hadrian<br />

visited in 130AD. Cobbled roads<br />

criss-cross the quarter, edged<br />

by petite boutiques purveying<br />

local souvenirs. Expect everything<br />

from crocheted cotton frocks<br />

to sword-shaped kebab spears.<br />

Sprawling over two restored<br />

Ottoman homes, courtyard<br />

gardens and a former church, the<br />

Suna-Inan Kıraç Kaleiçi Museum<br />

(25 Barbaros Mahallesi Kocatepe<br />

Sokak, kaleicimuzesi.com) offers<br />

a peek into Turkey’s past. Exhibits<br />

range from Kütahya ceramics to<br />

mid-19th century photos. Continue<br />

on towards the sea, where <strong>Antalya</strong>’s<br />

old Roman harbour teems with<br />

fishing boats, traditional Turkish<br />

wooden gulets and pleasure craft.<br />

To the west of Kaleiçi, the superb<br />

<strong>Antalya</strong> Archaeological Museum<br />

(antalyamuzesi.gov.tr) is a must<br />

for history buffs. It houses ancient<br />

pottery, precious jewels, sarcophagi<br />

and sculptures discovered across<br />

the region.<br />

34 <strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Travel


36 <strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Travel<br />

“<strong>Antalya</strong>’s<br />

position on the<br />

Mediterranean<br />

coast is postcard<br />

picture perfect”


<strong>Antalya</strong>, Turkey<br />

Insider guide<br />

CORBIS, GETTY<br />

Clockwise from<br />

here: by boat is<br />

the best way to<br />

soak up the view;<br />

the harbour teems<br />

with pleasure craft<br />

and fishing boats;<br />

Turkish Nazar<br />

pendants on sale<br />

<strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Travel<br />

37


<strong>Antalya</strong>, Turkey<br />

Insider guide<br />

GET OUTDOORS<br />

For a peek at the golden sands,<br />

crystal-clear inlets and wildflowerfilled<br />

valleys that spill westwards<br />

from <strong>Antalya</strong>, consider a day<br />

hiking the Lycian Way. This ancient<br />

footpath skirts 500km of pristine<br />

coastline from <strong>Antalya</strong> to Fethiye.<br />

Near Ulupınar (approximately 60km<br />

west of <strong>Antalya</strong>), the rocky terrain<br />

at Chimaera is known for its bizarre<br />

natural flames, and makes for a<br />

unique afternoon’s trek.<br />

Gentler thrills can be had<br />

at the nearby Roman ruins of<br />

Phaselis, around an hour’s drive<br />

from <strong>Antalya</strong>. A bucolic peninsula<br />

surrounded by three natural<br />

harbours, Phaselis possesses a<br />

wildly beautiful charm. Take a dip<br />

in the sea mid-sightseeing – and<br />

make sure to keep an eye out for<br />

the shards of centuries-old pottery<br />

that litter the beach.<br />

LOCAL DINING<br />

To sample serious local flavours,<br />

head to Özdoyum Restaurant<br />

(Sanayi Sitesi, 668 Sokak, +90 (0)242<br />

346 19 33, ozdoyum.com.tr). This<br />

laid-back eatery offers a medley of<br />

delicious <strong>Antalya</strong>n dishes, including<br />

bean salad (piyaz) and meatballs<br />

on skewers (sis köfte).<br />

The delectable 7 Mehmet (201<br />

Atatürk Kültür Parkı, +90 (0)242<br />

Clockwise<br />

from top left:<br />

Chimaera’s bizarre<br />

natural flames; the<br />

bucolic Phaselis<br />

peninsula;<br />

international food<br />

and drink<br />

at Seraser<br />

(right) and in<br />

Ulupinar (left)<br />

238 5200, 7mehmet.com) has<br />

been a place of foodie pilgrimage<br />

for decades, even serving Turkey’s<br />

first president Atatürk in 1935.<br />

For innovative dining, Seraser (18<br />

Karanlık Sokak, Kaleiçi, +90 (0)242<br />

247 6015, seraserrestaurant.com)<br />

serves up an elegant mix of<br />

international dishes – like salmon<br />

gravadlax – and contemporary<br />

Turkish creations, such as vine<br />

leaves stuffed with sea bass and<br />

coffee-infused crème brûlée.<br />

<strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Travel<br />

39


Insider guide<br />

<strong>Antalya</strong>, Turkey<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

Adrien Brody, Shakira and Charlize<br />

Theron have all been known to kick<br />

back with a sundowner at Hillside<br />

Su Beach Bar (Dumlupınar Bulvarı,<br />

Konyaaltı, hillsidesu.com). Order<br />

one of the bar’s 2012 signature<br />

pomegranate cocktails. This<br />

blue flag beach is also the site<br />

of Turkey’s “Biggest Little Music<br />

Festival”, SunSplash (27 May-3<br />

June, sunsplash-antalya.com), a<br />

week-long, non-stop dance party.<br />

DJ royalty including Norman Jay<br />

and Giles Peterson regularly grace<br />

the decks.<br />

For classical music lovers, the<br />

perfectly-preserved amphitheatre<br />

of Aspendos (an hour’s drive<br />

east of <strong>Antalya</strong>) holds an<br />

annual International Opera and<br />

Ballet Festival (14 June-4 July,<br />

aspendosfestival.gov.tr). This<br />

season’s evening performances<br />

include the Estonian National<br />

Opera’s production of Rigoletto.<br />

Clockwise<br />

from left: the<br />

amphitheatre<br />

of Aspendos<br />

now plays host<br />

to classical<br />

music concerts;<br />

Hillside Su Beach<br />

Bar’s signature<br />

pomegranate<br />

cocktail; the<br />

A-list bar’s<br />

amazing décor<br />

WHAT TO KNOW<br />

Why battle the stressful traffic in<br />

a hire car when you can hop<br />

aboard a dolmus instead? These<br />

shared taxis – which look like<br />

minibuses – are an <strong>Antalya</strong>n<br />

institution that travel everywhere,<br />

both within the city limits and<br />

along the coastal resorts. And,<br />

best of all, unlike hiring a taxi in the<br />

majority of major cities, dolmus<br />

journeys are also dirt-cheap! TC<br />

GETTING THERE<br />

For more information about <strong>Antalya</strong>, visit your local<br />

<strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> or Going Places store, call +44 (0)844 412<br />

5966 or visit thomascook.com.<br />

MORE INFORMATION<br />

<strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Pocket Guides to Turkey, Mediterranean<br />

Coast £4.99, provides further inspiration for travels to<br />

<strong>Antalya</strong>. See thomascookpublishing.com for more details.<br />

40 <strong>Thomas</strong> <strong>Cook</strong> Travel

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