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November of memory: Poland remembers those who ... - Krakow Post

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NOVEMBER 1-NOVEMBER 7, 2007<br />

A L T E R N A T I V E C O N S U M E R The <strong>Krakow</strong> <strong>Post</strong> 13<br />

Fire in the mouth: <strong>Poland</strong>’s<br />

bootleg vodka tradition<br />

CC:2.5:Bartosz Senderek<br />

When a Pole asks a foreigner what he associates with <strong>Poland</strong>, he almost always hears the same answer: strong vodka.<br />

Kinga Rodkiewicz<br />

STAFF JOURNALIST<br />

When a Pole asks a foreigner what he associates<br />

with <strong>Poland</strong>, he almost always hears the same<br />

answer: strong vodka.<br />

The popularity <strong>of</strong> Polish alcohols is connected<br />

with a long history <strong>of</strong> making alcoholic drinks and<br />

with recipes handed down for generations.<br />

For centuries, Polish people have produced<br />

homemade alcoholic drinks. The technology <strong>of</strong><br />

producing vodka came to <strong>Poland</strong> in the 13th and<br />

14th centuries, thanks to Arabian and Italian merchants.<br />

The first written document about vodka<br />

dates to 1405, from a court in Randomizer.<br />

The golden age for the alcohol industry developed<br />

in the 16th Century when <strong>Poland</strong> became<br />

known as Europe’s granary.<br />

Corn production was so high that surpluses not<br />

used for food and alcohol production were exported<br />

to western Europe. In that era, each noble<br />

family produced its own unique liquor made from<br />

different fruits and herbs.<br />

Almost every male convent also produced alcoholic<br />

drinks. Even the peasants, especially along<br />

the Polish borderland, produced their own alcohols;<br />

the most popular were made from quince and<br />

wild strawberries.<br />

During the 17th Century, <strong>Krakow</strong> was the center<br />

<strong>of</strong> vodka production. The alcohol was exported<br />

to Silesia, and then to what is now the Czech Republic,<br />

Germany and Austria.<br />

In 1782 Jan Baczewski opened the first big distillery<br />

in Lviv, which produced vodka and some<br />

liquors. The label stated: “The only vodka which<br />

is as good as Baczewski’s vodka is the Russian alcohol<br />

<strong>of</strong> Peter Smirn<strong>of</strong>f from Moscow.”<br />

The Smirn<strong>of</strong>f label contained the same statement<br />

about Baczewski’s vodka. In Communist<br />

<strong>Poland</strong> after World War II, it was difficult to buy<br />

a bottle <strong>of</strong> good vodka because <strong>of</strong> the limitation<br />

created by alcohol rationing coupons.<br />

In response, many Poles produced homemade<br />

alcohol. However, <strong>those</strong> <strong>who</strong> manufactured homemade<br />

vodka were said to be enemies <strong>of</strong> the state<br />

and were targets <strong>of</strong> TV and newspaper campaigns.<br />

<strong>Post</strong>ers from that era depicted old, hunched-over<br />

men with eyeglasses and walking sticks in emaciated<br />

hands.<br />

The poster said: “Homemade vodka is the cause<br />

<strong>of</strong> blindness.” Police raids destroyed the home distilleries,<br />

and the <strong>of</strong>fenders were arrested and jailed.<br />

The most popular drinks in the People’s Republic<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>Poland</strong> were liquors made from caraway, anise,<br />

barberry, mint, blackberries and ginger. Other<br />

drinks included hunter vodka, peach brandy, pear<br />

brandy, juniper vodka and many others.<br />

Today, the best-known homemade alcohol may<br />

be plum brandy from Lacko in southeast <strong>Poland</strong>.<br />

First the drinker notices the tempting smell <strong>of</strong><br />

the plums. When he drinks a glass, he feels the fire<br />

in his mouth and a great flavor as well. Then the<br />

delightful warmth spreads into his body.<br />

“Plum brandy gives vim and blushes cheeks,”<br />

a label says. But one has to be careful how many<br />

glasses he drinks. The sweet homemade brandy is<br />

75 percent alcohol.<br />

In 1992, the heritage conservator (a person <strong>who</strong><br />

is responsible for the preservation and renovation<br />

<strong>of</strong> monuments) acknowledged the Lacko brandy<br />

as a national cultural landmark.<br />

According to documents dating to 1698, the<br />

brandy story begins with the people <strong>of</strong> Lacko<br />

growing plum trees.<br />

Serfs picked the plums and delivered them to<br />

the manor, where the fruits were used to produce<br />

alcohol. Lacko’s golden age began in 1882 when<br />

a Jewish family rented a parish ground and built<br />

a distillery.<br />

From 1882 to 1912, Samuel Grossbard owned<br />

the company. In 1912 a record 15,000 liters <strong>of</strong><br />

plum brandy was produced.<br />

The brandy was delivered to neighboring shops<br />

with a label certifying it as a high-quality drink.<br />

From 1960 to 1980, Henry Maciuszek and Joseph<br />

Biernacki, headmasters at the local primary school,<br />

created the distinctive labels. They can still be seen<br />

on the web site: www.sliwowica.net.pl<br />

On a nationwide scale, the quality <strong>of</strong> Lacko<br />

brandy became well known thanks to Inkas Ferber,<br />

<strong>who</strong> married Grossbard’s daughter. Ferber used<br />

only the best fruits and well-made equipment, including<br />

oak casks in which the brandy matured.<br />

At that time, alcohol was exported mainly to<br />

Palestine.<br />

When WWII broke out and Jews were arrested,<br />

alcohol production collapsed in <strong>Poland</strong>. But soon<br />

after the war ended, people started to make their<br />

alcohol again.<br />

Since 2004, the process has been celebrated at<br />

the European Fest <strong>of</strong> the Plum Brandy and Picking<br />

Fruit.<br />

The biggest attraction <strong>of</strong> this day is a stand<br />

where everyone can see the process <strong>of</strong> plum brandy<br />

production. According to a 2006 Polish law,<br />

producing plum brandy – as well as other homemade<br />

alcohol drinks – is a crime unless the distillery<br />

is properly registered.<br />

Franciszek Mlynarczyk, mayor <strong>of</strong> Lacko, has<br />

helped write a law that proposes the production <strong>of</strong><br />

homemade alcohols.<br />

“Our fruit growers produce 5,000 liters <strong>of</strong> plum<br />

brandy a year,” Mlynarczyk told Dziennik. “The<br />

Internal Revenue wants me to denounce the people<br />

<strong>who</strong> produce the brandy. The police do nothing because<br />

in Lacko everybody knows each other.”<br />

Actually, the Ministry <strong>of</strong> Agriculture and Finance<br />

organized a commission to prepare the rules<br />

<strong>of</strong> production and retail trade for the home-made<br />

alcohols.<br />

However, the act to legalize domestic alcohols<br />

hasn’t been enacted yet.<br />

That’s why homemade Lacko brandy cannot be<br />

bought at a shop.<br />

Jacob, a college student from Lacko, said:<br />

“Only trustworthy people <strong>who</strong> know the right<br />

time and place can obtain a bottle. It costs 45 to<br />

50 zloty.”<br />

Opponents <strong>of</strong> legalization <strong>of</strong> homemade alcohols<br />

say they are dangerous to health. In comparison<br />

to national companies in which there are some<br />

quality controls, the lack <strong>of</strong> standards for homemade<br />

production is the main cause <strong>of</strong> concern.<br />

Even good bootleg vodka may contain some<br />

alcohols that are said to be carcinogens, or cancer<br />

agents.<br />

There is also a possibility <strong>of</strong> methanol contamination.<br />

Methanol even in minimal concentrations<br />

can cause blindness and death.<br />

However, plum brandy gourmets hope that the<br />

government, following a Balkans example where<br />

homemade alcohol is legal, will legalize it in <strong>Poland</strong>.<br />

Then there will be no obstacles to buying it<br />

in the shops and feeling from time to time that fire<br />

in the mouth.<br />

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