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Dr. Adarsh Batra<br />

<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>sites</strong><br />

– <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>footsteps</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

By<br />

Dr. Adarsh Batra *<br />

Abstract<br />

Across <strong>the</strong> world and throughout<br />

<strong>the</strong> ages, religious people have made<br />

pilgrimages. The <strong>Buddha</strong> himself<br />

exhorted his followers to visit what are<br />

now known as <strong>the</strong> great places <strong>of</strong><br />

pilgrimage: Lumbini, Bodhgaya,<br />

Sarnath, Rajgir, Nalanda and<br />

Kushinagar. The actions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

in each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se places are described<br />

within <strong>the</strong> canons <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scriptures <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> various traditions <strong>of</strong> his teaching,<br />

such as <strong>the</strong> sections on Vinaya, and also<br />

in various compendia describing his<br />

life. The <strong>sites</strong> <strong>the</strong>mselves have now been<br />

identified once more with <strong>the</strong> aid <strong>of</strong><br />

records left by three pilgrims <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

past (The great Emperor Ashoka, The<br />

Chinese pilgrims Fa Hien and Hsuan<br />

Chwang).<br />

The practice <strong>of</strong> Buddhism<br />

flourished long in <strong>In</strong>dia, perhaps<br />

reaching a zenith in <strong>the</strong> seventh century<br />

AD. After this it began to decline<br />

because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> invading Muslim armies,<br />

and by <strong>the</strong> twelfth century <strong>the</strong> practice<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dharma had become sparse in its<br />

homeland. Thus, <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Buddhist places <strong>of</strong> pilgrimage from <strong>the</strong><br />

thirteenth to <strong>the</strong> mid-nineteenth<br />

centuries is obscure and <strong>the</strong>y were<br />

mostly forgotten. However, it is<br />

remarkable that <strong>the</strong>y all remained<br />

virtually undisturbed by <strong>the</strong> conflicts<br />

and developments <strong>of</strong> society during that<br />

period. Subject only to <strong>the</strong> decay <strong>of</strong> time<br />

* The author has a Ph.D. in Tourism from Kurukshetra University, Kurukshetra (K.U.K.),<br />

<strong>In</strong>dia. He has published extensively in Tourism and Travel Magazines. Currently he is a<br />

lecturer in MA-TRM program in <strong>the</strong> Graduate School <strong>of</strong> Business <strong>of</strong> Assumption<br />

University <strong>of</strong> Thailand.<br />

46


<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>sites</strong><br />

– <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>footsteps</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>y remained dormant, waiting for<br />

rediscovery.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> last century,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Archeological Survey <strong>of</strong> <strong>In</strong>dia,<br />

under <strong>the</strong> auspices <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British<br />

Government, and one Englishman in<br />

particular--General Sir Alexander<br />

Cunningham--unear<strong>the</strong>d and identified<br />

many <strong>sites</strong>. Since that time, owing to a<br />

renewed <strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> interest in Buddhism<br />

and <strong>the</strong> devotion and hardship <strong>of</strong> many<br />

individuals, <strong>the</strong> pilgrimage <strong>sites</strong> have<br />

been revived.<br />

The following account is intended<br />

less to present a purely historical<br />

record <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> places <strong>of</strong> pilgrimage than<br />

to <strong>of</strong>fer some information and perhaps<br />

inspiration to o<strong>the</strong>r pilgrims, with <strong>the</strong><br />

wish that this revival may increase.<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

<strong>In</strong> 566 BC, in <strong>the</strong> little state <strong>of</strong><br />

Kapilvastu at <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Himalayas,<br />

was born a son, Siddharatha, to<br />

Suddhodana, a Sakya prince, and his<br />

wife Mayadevi. Seers proclaimed that<br />

<strong>the</strong> new-born would ei<strong>the</strong>r conquer <strong>the</strong><br />

world or be a <strong>Buddha</strong>- <strong>the</strong> enlighted<br />

one. The prophesy came true when<br />

Gautama attained Supreme Knowledge<br />

(bodhi) and laid <strong>the</strong> foundation <strong>of</strong> a<br />

religion which is today practiced by<br />

one-third <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s population.<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>In</strong>dia, it is pilgrimage which is<br />

<strong>the</strong> most important segment <strong>of</strong> domestic<br />

tourism. And yet <strong>In</strong>dia has failed to<br />

exploit <strong>the</strong> Buddhist angle, <strong>the</strong> most<br />

potential. Buddhism was born in <strong>In</strong>dia.<br />

But it almost disappeared from <strong>the</strong><br />

country <strong>of</strong> its origin. It is , however, a<br />

major force in much <strong>of</strong> Asia – in China,<br />

Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong,<br />

Singapore, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia,<br />

Myanmar, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Nepal,<br />

Bhutan, Mongolia, and so on.<br />

NORTH EAST INDIA<br />

100 kms from Gorakhpur in Uttar<br />

Pradesh, Kapilavastu (Piprahwa) on <strong>the</strong><br />

Gorakhpur Gonda loop-line with<br />

Naugarh (35 kms.) is <strong>the</strong> nearest<br />

railway station. The capital city <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Sakya clan, and one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earliest<br />

republics, it was in Kapilavastu’s<br />

opulent environs, that <strong>the</strong> holy soul <strong>of</strong><br />

prince Siddharth (Gautam <strong>Buddha</strong>)<br />

spent his childhood. Here he saw<br />

sorrow and pain, disease and death.<br />

Then, finally when he saw a radiant<br />

happy Sadhu who had conquered all<br />

<strong>the</strong>se, he decided to renounce all<br />

worldly riches and pleasures to seek<br />

truth and embark on <strong>the</strong> path <strong>of</strong><br />

salvation. The place holds significant<br />

value for Buddhist pilgrims and has<br />

several Stupas. The archaeological<br />

excavations have revealed stone caskets<br />

containing relics believed to be that <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Buddha</strong>’s.<br />

Sarnath, about 10 kms. from <strong>the</strong><br />

holy city <strong>of</strong> Varanasi, is <strong>the</strong> blessed<br />

locale where more than 2500 years ago<br />

<strong>Buddha</strong> chose to deliver his first<br />

ABAC <strong>Journal</strong> Vol. 23, No.2 (May - August, 2003), pp. 46 - 57 47


Dr. Adarsh Batra<br />

sermon, after attaining Enlightenment.<br />

The five disciples who had followed<br />

him were surprised to see <strong>the</strong><br />

mesmerizing glowing countenance <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Buddha</strong>, who <strong>the</strong>n delivered his first<br />

sermon before <strong>the</strong>m, now termed<br />

Dharamachakra Pravartan. This set in<br />

motion <strong>the</strong> great Buddhist tradition <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Sangha, for popularizing <strong>the</strong><br />

teachings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great ascetic, worldwide.<br />

Gautam <strong>Buddha</strong> with his five<br />

disciples formed <strong>the</strong> first Sangha<br />

alongwith Yasa <strong>of</strong> Varanasi and his 54<br />

friends.<br />

The beginning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> celebrated<br />

Mantra, ‘<strong>Buddha</strong>m Sharanam<br />

Gachhami’, owes its origin to Sarnath.<br />

The three Jewels<br />

“ I go for refuge to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong>,<br />

I go for refuge to <strong>the</strong> Wheel <strong>of</strong> Law,<br />

I go for refuge to <strong>the</strong> Sangha”<br />

first laid down here, have remained<br />

unchanged ever since. Hence rightly,<br />

every Buddhist Pilgrim after Bodhgaya,<br />

endeavors to be blessed with a visit to<br />

Sarnath in his life time.<br />

Dhamekh Stupa bears particular<br />

significance at Sarnath as it signifies <strong>the</strong><br />

“seat <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> holy <strong>Buddha</strong>”, as he<br />

proclaimed his faith. It is about 34 mtrs.<br />

in height and including <strong>the</strong> foundations,<br />

it can be measured upto 42 mtrs.<br />

Besides Dhamekh Stupa, Sarnath also<br />

has <strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> Dharmajajika Stupa and<br />

that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original Mulgandhakuti<br />

Temple which according to Hieun<br />

Tsang was about 61 mtrs. high. <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

is said to have rested and meditated<br />

here while in Sarnath.<br />

Kaushambi, 54 kms from<br />

Allahabad, was visited by <strong>Buddha</strong> in<br />

<strong>the</strong> 6th and 9th years after his<br />

enlightenment. He delivered several<br />

sermons here, elevating it to a center <strong>of</strong><br />

learning for Buddhists. Today one can<br />

see <strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> an Ashokan Pillar, an<br />

old fort and <strong>the</strong> Ghositaram Monastery.<br />

The archaeological excavations here<br />

have yielded a large number <strong>of</strong><br />

sculptors and figurines, coins, punchmarked<br />

and cast coins and terracotta<br />

sculptures which show <strong>the</strong> reverence<br />

<strong>the</strong> city was held in by <strong>the</strong> devout, in<br />

times gone by. All <strong>the</strong>se religious finds<br />

<strong>of</strong> historical and archaeological<br />

importance can be viewed at <strong>the</strong><br />

Allahabad Museum.<br />

Kushinagar ( Kushinagar <strong>of</strong> Yore)<br />

is a revered place for Buddhist pilgrims,<br />

55 kms away from Gorakpur. It was<br />

here that <strong>the</strong> Tathagata, <strong>the</strong> reciter <strong>of</strong><br />

truth, brea<strong>the</strong>d his last with <strong>the</strong> last<br />

words. "Behold now, brethren, I exhort<br />

you, saying, decay is inherent in all<br />

component things! Work out your<br />

salvation with diligence!” A temple<br />

dedicated to <strong>the</strong> event <strong>the</strong><br />

Mahaparinirvana temple today stands<br />

amidst a serene ‘sal’ grove ......... as if<br />

still reminiscing <strong>the</strong> great demise. The<br />

huge statue <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Reclining <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

excavated in 1876 at <strong>the</strong> temple, is one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most momentous <strong>of</strong> all sights for<br />

<strong>the</strong> devout. It was brought form<br />

Mathura by a devout monk, Haribala<br />

during <strong>the</strong> reign <strong>of</strong> King Kumara Gupta<br />

48


<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>sites</strong><br />

– <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>footsteps</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

in <strong>the</strong> 5th century AD.<br />

The whole <strong>of</strong> Kushinagar, since <strong>the</strong><br />

Mahaparinirvana <strong>of</strong> Gautam <strong>Buddha</strong>,<br />

was turned into a memorial site with<br />

Stupas including <strong>the</strong> relic stupa-<br />

Mukutbandhana and Gupta period<br />

Chaitayas and Viharas, built by <strong>the</strong><br />

devout kings. The Chinese travelers Fa<br />

Hien, Hieun Tasang and T. Ising visited<br />

Kushinagar during different centuries<br />

and recorded a graphic account <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

place which later fell to bad times, due<br />

to lack <strong>of</strong> patronage. These recordings<br />

provided <strong>the</strong> vital clues for excavations<br />

done centuries later by Sir Alexander<br />

Cunningham.<br />

The visiting <strong>sites</strong> <strong>of</strong> Kushinagar<br />

fall in three categories: The<br />

Mahaparinirvana Temple, commemorating<br />

<strong>the</strong> place <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great decease<br />

with a reclining statue <strong>of</strong> Lord <strong>Buddha</strong>.<br />

Mata Kunwar Shrine contains a 10th<br />

Century blue schist image <strong>of</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

and; Rambhar Stupa, which is<br />

supposedly <strong>the</strong> spot where Lord<br />

<strong>Buddha</strong> was cremated and his relics<br />

divided into eight equal parts. Apart<br />

from this, a Chinese Temple, a Buddhist<br />

Temple, a Tibetan Temple and <strong>the</strong> <strong>In</strong>do-<br />

Japan-Srilanka Buddhist Center hold<br />

significant religious value for pilgrims.<br />

Situated 134 kms. from Lucknow<br />

and 29 kms. from Balrampur, Sravasti,<br />

<strong>the</strong> capital <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancient kingdom <strong>of</strong><br />

Kosala, has <strong>the</strong> honor for sheltering<br />

<strong>Buddha</strong> for 24 rainy seasons in <strong>the</strong><br />

Jetvana Gardens. The city believed to<br />

be founded by <strong>the</strong> mythological king<br />

Sravast has age-old Stupas, majestic<br />

monasteries and several temples.<br />

<strong>Buddha</strong> is said to have performed some<br />

miracles here. This holy place also has<br />

<strong>the</strong> famous Anand Bodhi tree, an<br />

<strong>of</strong>fspring <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> one said to have been<br />

planted by <strong>Buddha</strong>’s main disciple<br />

Anand.<br />

EASTERN INDIA<br />

Bodhgaya, in <strong>the</strong> state <strong>of</strong> Bihar,<br />

reckoned as <strong>the</strong> most important<br />

Buddhist pilgrimage center, is <strong>the</strong> place<br />

where Lord Sakyamuni (Gautam<br />

<strong>Buddha</strong>) entered into mediation after<br />

being moved by <strong>the</strong> sufferings <strong>of</strong><br />

mankind. The giant Bodhi Tree<br />

(Peepal) that we see today is believed to<br />

have grown from <strong>the</strong> original Bodhi<br />

Tree under which, sitting on <strong>the</strong> raised<br />

platform, Prince Siddharth mediated<br />

and finally attained Nirvana.<br />

Monasteries raised here by Burmese,<br />

Tibetan, Chinese, Japanese and Thai<br />

devotees, in <strong>the</strong>ir native architectural<br />

styles, are worth visiting. Then <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

Chaukramana, <strong>the</strong> Jewel Walk, where it<br />

is believed that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong> strolled<br />

while in deep thought.<br />

The magnificent Maha Bodhi<br />

temple in Bodhgaya is an architectural<br />

amalgamation <strong>of</strong> many cultures. The<br />

temple bears <strong>the</strong> stamp <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

architecture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gupta Dynasty and<br />

subsequent ages. On <strong>the</strong> walls <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

temple, one sees <strong>Buddha</strong> carved in<br />

different aspects, and in <strong>the</strong> sanctum<br />

sanctorum, a colossal <strong>Buddha</strong>, is seen<br />

ABAC <strong>Journal</strong> Vol. 23, No.2 (May - August, 2003), pp. 46 - 57 49


Dr. Adarsh Batra<br />

touching <strong>the</strong> ground, which has<br />

mythological significance in <strong>the</strong><br />

Buddhist lores. The temple carries<br />

inscriptions recording <strong>the</strong> visits <strong>of</strong><br />

pilgrims from Sri Lanka, China and<br />

Mayanmar. <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> 7th and 10th<br />

Centuries AD Hieun Tsang, <strong>the</strong> Chinese<br />

traveler, also visited <strong>the</strong> temple in <strong>the</strong><br />

7th Century. Finally a visit to <strong>the</strong><br />

Bodhgaya Archaeological Museum is a<br />

must for a religious art lover as it<br />

initiates one into <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong>’s<br />

centered art forms. The Buddhist<br />

sculpture collection from 1st Century<br />

BC to 11th Century AD is housed<br />

here at one place. Reflected through<br />

several art forms, it is more like a<br />

treasure house <strong>of</strong> artistic expression.<br />

Bodhgaya is 245 kms. from Varanasi<br />

and 178 kms. from Patna via Rajgir and<br />

Nalanda.<br />

A place <strong>of</strong> religious sanctity for<br />

Hindus, Gaya lies 12 kms. from<br />

Bodhgaya between Pretshila and<br />

Ramshila hills and is washed by <strong>the</strong><br />

shores <strong>of</strong> river Phalgu. Gaya has a<br />

large number <strong>of</strong> Buddhist temples also.<br />

While <strong>Buddha</strong> was doing severe<br />

penance, he became weak, tired and<br />

hungry. He rested under a tree, where<br />

he was <strong>of</strong>fered food by a condemned<br />

village woman named Sujata. To<br />

everybody’s surprise <strong>Buddha</strong> accepted<br />

her <strong>of</strong>ferings. Legend has it that after<br />

having consumed <strong>the</strong> food, <strong>Buddha</strong>’s<br />

countenance assumed a divine glow and<br />

he realized <strong>the</strong> Supreme Truth; that<br />

nei<strong>the</strong>r extreme self indulgence nor self<br />

mortification is ever required. What is<br />

needed is to follow <strong>the</strong> Middle Path<br />

(Department <strong>of</strong> tourism). Sujata Sthan<br />

or Durgeshwari Temple stands as a<br />

symbol commemorating this event.<br />

Nalanda, 90 kms south <strong>of</strong> Patna,<br />

literally means <strong>the</strong> place that confers<br />

<strong>the</strong> lotus. It was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> oldest<br />

universities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. It has nine<br />

million books, ten thousand students,<br />

two thousand teachers and was a center<br />

<strong>of</strong> great learning which reached its<br />

zenith between 5th and 12th century<br />

AD. Both Lord <strong>Buddha</strong> and Lord<br />

Mahavira visited this place. Emperor<br />

Ashoka built a Vihara, while Emperor<br />

Harshvardhan donated a 26 mtr. high<br />

copper image <strong>of</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong> and Emperor<br />

Kumar Gupta built a college <strong>of</strong> fine<br />

arts. <strong>In</strong> 1951, an <strong>In</strong>ternational Center<br />

for Buddhist Studies was established<br />

in Nalanda. Nava Nalanda Vihar, 2<br />

kms from here, is a similar institution.<br />

The recent findings from<br />

excavations and <strong>the</strong> identifications <strong>of</strong><br />

number <strong>of</strong> <strong>sites</strong> with Buddhist remain<br />

open up a new vista in <strong>the</strong> field <strong>of</strong><br />

Buddhist Tourism in Orissa. Dhauli<br />

hill on <strong>the</strong> bank <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> river Daya<br />

is a little away from <strong>the</strong> main road<br />

to Puri/Konark from Bhubaneswar.<br />

Ashoka changed his mind in favor <strong>of</strong><br />

spiritual conquests in preference to war<br />

exploits after <strong>the</strong> Kalinga war which<br />

was fought here in <strong>the</strong> 3rd century BC.<br />

This place motivated <strong>the</strong> Kalinga<br />

Nippon <strong>Buddha</strong> Sangha to establish a<br />

peace pagoda or Shanti Stupa at Dhauli<br />

along with <strong>the</strong> construction <strong>of</strong> a<br />

monastery called Saddarma Vihar.<br />

50


<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>sites</strong><br />

– <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>footsteps</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

Lalitagiri, <strong>the</strong> earliest buddhist<br />

complex <strong>of</strong> Ist Century AD, has a huge<br />

brick monastery, <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> a<br />

Chaitya hall, a number <strong>of</strong> votive Stupas<br />

and a renovated stone Stupa at <strong>the</strong> apex<br />

<strong>of</strong> sand stone hill. At Ratnagiri,<br />

excavations revealed <strong>the</strong> establishment<br />

<strong>of</strong> a Buddhist center from <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong><br />

Narasimha Gupta Baladitya (first half<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sixth century AD). At Udaigiri<br />

excavations brought to light a sprawling<br />

complex <strong>of</strong> brick monastery with a<br />

number <strong>of</strong> Buddhist sculptures. <strong>In</strong>fact<br />

<strong>the</strong> entire area is found located at <strong>the</strong><br />

foot hills <strong>of</strong> a large hill acting as <strong>the</strong><br />

backdrop <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area.<br />

Rajgir, meaning “<strong>the</strong> Royal<br />

Palace”, (Raja Griha) lies 12 kms. south<br />

<strong>of</strong> Patna. Rajgir is a site <strong>of</strong> great<br />

sanctity and significance for Buddhists.<br />

The Gridhakuta Hill, in Rajgir, was <strong>the</strong><br />

seat from where <strong>Buddha</strong> delivered<br />

many <strong>of</strong> his sermons. It was here that<br />

<strong>the</strong> teachings <strong>of</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong> were recorded<br />

in writing for <strong>the</strong> first time. An aerial<br />

ropeway takes visitors up <strong>the</strong> hill where<br />

<strong>the</strong> Japanese have built a beautiful<br />

Stupa.<br />

Ajatashatru’s Fort is ano<strong>the</strong>r place<br />

<strong>of</strong> tourist attraction. The sculpture<br />

which depicts <strong>the</strong> ‘Parinirvana’, or <strong>the</strong><br />

‘great cession’ <strong>of</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong> is ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

monument <strong>of</strong> artistic and historical<br />

importance. It shows <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

lying on his right side with <strong>the</strong> right<br />

forearm resting under his head to<br />

commemorate <strong>the</strong> final salvation or<br />

‘Mukti’, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Buddhist Faith.<br />

Sikkim is situated in <strong>the</strong> Eastern<br />

Himalayas, along <strong>the</strong> borders <strong>of</strong> Bhutan<br />

(East), Tibet (North), Nepal (West) and<br />

West Bengal (South). Its capital,<br />

Gangtok has a lot to see, specially <strong>the</strong><br />

Research <strong>In</strong>stitute <strong>of</strong> Tibetology, a<br />

World center for <strong>the</strong> study <strong>of</strong> Buddhist<br />

philosophy and religion and has a rare<br />

collection <strong>of</strong> Thankas, statues and over<br />

200 Buddhist icons. The Rumtek<br />

Monastery about 24 kms away houses<br />

<strong>the</strong> most unique art objects in <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Enchey Monastery, near Gangtok, built<br />

almost 200 years ago, was blessed by<br />

<strong>the</strong> great tantric master Lama Druptab<br />

Karpa.<br />

Not very far from Bomdila in<br />

Arunachal Pradesh lies <strong>the</strong> Tawang<br />

Headquarters, a beautiful district in <strong>the</strong><br />

center <strong>of</strong> which emerges <strong>the</strong> walled and<br />

fortified Tawang Monastery. The<br />

monastery overlooks <strong>the</strong> valley and is<br />

surrounded by mountains which seem<br />

to be guarding <strong>the</strong> valley and its<br />

inhabitants. Over 500 Lamas live in its<br />

65 residential buildings. One can<br />

witness a superb collection <strong>of</strong> ancient<br />

scriptures, images, Thankas and a 8<br />

meters high gilded image <strong>of</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong>.<br />

The monastery is locally known as<br />

Gompa, like any o<strong>the</strong>r and is believed<br />

to be 400 years old.<br />

Vaishali, believed to be <strong>the</strong> first<br />

republic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, having an elected<br />

body <strong>of</strong> representatives, holds special<br />

significance for Buddhist devotees. At<br />

Kolhua, Lord <strong>Buddha</strong> delivered his last<br />

sermon, hinting at his impending<br />

departure from <strong>the</strong> mortal world. Later,<br />

ABAC <strong>Journal</strong> Vol. 23, No.2 (May - August, 2003), pp. 46 - 57 51


Dr. Adarsh Batra<br />

Emperor Ashoka erected a huge pillar<br />

to commemorate <strong>the</strong> spot where <strong>the</strong> last<br />

sermon was delivered. Vaishali was also<br />

<strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> I<strong>In</strong>d Buddhist Council<br />

congregation, held after 100 years <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Buddha</strong>’s Parinirvana to discuss <strong>the</strong> ten<br />

points <strong>of</strong> Vinaya, <strong>the</strong> rule <strong>of</strong> conduct<br />

under dispute.<br />

Vaishali is famous for Amrapali,<br />

<strong>the</strong> beautiful dancer and courtesan <strong>of</strong><br />

Vaishali, who <strong>of</strong>fered <strong>Buddha</strong> a mango<br />

orchard and, impressed by his<br />

teachings, became a nun (Bhikshu). The<br />

excavations carried out in Vaishali have<br />

brought to light <strong>Buddha</strong> Stupa I(4th<br />

Century BC) and II, built in brick with<br />

a casket containing part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ashes <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Buddha</strong>.<br />

NORTHERN INDIA<br />

Popularly known as “Hermit<br />

Kingdom”, Ladakh is a land <strong>of</strong> snow<br />

carved peaks, translucent Lakes,<br />

barren terrain and mystic culture.<br />

Quite like Tibet it has a great<br />

Buddhist tradition which is evident<br />

from <strong>the</strong> high monk to people ratio<br />

<strong>of</strong> 1:8. It has about 13 major Gompas<br />

(Monasteries) <strong>of</strong> which HEMIS is<br />

considered <strong>the</strong> Gompa <strong>of</strong> Gompas.<br />

It has <strong>the</strong> patronage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Royal<br />

Family. It is <strong>the</strong> most important<br />

monastery <strong>of</strong> Ladakh with a concealed<br />

entrance, a huge courtyard flanked by<br />

two big temples. <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> month <strong>of</strong><br />

June <strong>the</strong> famous Hemis festival is<br />

held, when a large number <strong>of</strong> tourists<br />

visit it.<br />

Alchi, a little village, 70 kms from<br />

Leh in Jammu and Kashmir, is known<br />

as a jewel among <strong>the</strong> religious <strong>sites</strong> in<br />

Ladakh. Abandoned centuries ago, this<br />

monastery has been lovingly<br />

maintained by <strong>the</strong> monks at Likhir, <strong>the</strong><br />

nearest functioning Gompa. It is<br />

popularly known as Chos-kor and<br />

comprises 5 temples which are perhaps<br />

<strong>the</strong> richest in <strong>the</strong>ir collection <strong>of</strong><br />

paintings and images in <strong>the</strong> Du-Khang<br />

(<strong>the</strong> Assembly Hall), and <strong>the</strong> three<br />

storied Sum-Tsek. Its murals, dating<br />

back to <strong>the</strong> 11th and 12th Centuries,<br />

predate <strong>the</strong> Tibetan style <strong>of</strong> painting<br />

which is found in all o<strong>the</strong>r Gompas.<br />

Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are reminiscent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

painting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> far <strong>of</strong>f Ajanta Caves and<br />

are presumed to be almost <strong>the</strong> sole<br />

survivors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> buddhist style,<br />

currently in Kashmir during <strong>the</strong> first<br />

millenium AD.<br />

Sankisa lies in central Uttar<br />

Pradesh, 47 kms from Farrukhabad. It<br />

is believed to be <strong>the</strong> place where<br />

<strong>Buddha</strong>, along with Brahma and Devraj<br />

<strong>In</strong>dra (Rain God)descended after giving<br />

sermons to his mo<strong>the</strong>r in heaven. At<br />

<strong>the</strong> spot <strong>of</strong> descent stands a temple with<br />

a statue <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong>. The place is<br />

also known for a temple dedicated to<br />

Bisari Devi and an excavated Ashokan<br />

Elephant Pillar. There is also a colossal<br />

Shiva Linga here. A large fair is held at<br />

Sankisa in <strong>the</strong> month <strong>of</strong> Shravan (July-<br />

August). Nearest airport is Agra, and<br />

from <strong>the</strong>re, one can travel up to Pakhna<br />

(12 km from Sankisa) by rail.<br />

52


<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>sites</strong><br />

– <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>footsteps</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

Tabo : A gompa was founded in<br />

996 AD (Tibetan year <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Fire Ape)<br />

and <strong>the</strong> initiative is said to belong to <strong>the</strong><br />

great teacher Rinchensang Po also<br />

known as Mahaguru Ratnabhadra. <strong>In</strong><br />

June-July 1996, Tabo celebrated a<br />

millennium <strong>of</strong> its glorious existence.<br />

With breathtaking murals and stucco<br />

images, Tabo is <strong>of</strong>ten called “The<br />

Ajanta <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Himalayas”. And here is<br />

art that above all is born <strong>of</strong> religion and<br />

deep faith.<br />

The Tabo Monastery at a height <strong>of</strong><br />

3050 Mts. is a complex that holds 9<br />

temples, 23 chortens, a monks chamber<br />

and an extension that houses <strong>the</strong> nuns<br />

chamber. This core is bounded by an<br />

ear<strong>the</strong>n wall and encloses an area <strong>of</strong><br />

6300 sq.mts. Just short <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> complex<br />

are <strong>the</strong> contemporary monastic<br />

structures. On <strong>the</strong> sheer cliff-face<br />

above <strong>the</strong> enclave are a series <strong>of</strong> caves<br />

which were used as dwelling units by<br />

<strong>the</strong> monks and include an assembly<br />

hall. Here again, dim traces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

paintings that once adorned <strong>the</strong> rock<br />

face are visible.<br />

CENTRAL INDIA<br />

Sanchi is a serene hill crowned by<br />

a group <strong>of</strong> Stupas, monasteries, temples<br />

and pillars dating from 3rd Century BC<br />

to <strong>the</strong> 12th Century AD. The glory that<br />

was Sanchi, an ancient seat <strong>of</strong> Buddhist<br />

learning and place <strong>of</strong> pilgrimage, can<br />

still be experienced in its complex<br />

structures where many Buddhist<br />

legends found expression in <strong>the</strong> rich<br />

sculpture. The <strong>Buddha</strong> is not<br />

represented through figures at Sanchi,<br />

but through symbols, as was <strong>the</strong><br />

tradition in <strong>the</strong> early period <strong>of</strong><br />

Buddhism. The lotus represents <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Buddha</strong>’s birth, <strong>the</strong> tree signifies his<br />

enlightenment, <strong>the</strong> wheel represents his<br />

first sermon and <strong>the</strong> Stupa represents<br />

his nirvana or salvation. The footprints<br />

and <strong>the</strong> throne denote <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong>’s<br />

presence. Sanchi was virtually forgotten<br />

after <strong>the</strong> 13th Century until 1818, when<br />

General Taylor, a British Officer<br />

rediscovered it, half buried and well<br />

preserved. Later in 1912, Sir john<br />

Marshal, Director General <strong>of</strong><br />

Archaeology ordered <strong>the</strong> restoration<br />

work at <strong>the</strong> site.<br />

WESTERN INDIA<br />

Dating back to <strong>the</strong> 2nd Century<br />

BC, <strong>the</strong> monuments at Karla are at a<br />

distance <strong>of</strong> 11 km from Lonavola and<br />

just <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> Mumbai-Pune road. The<br />

magnificent Chaitya hall at Karla is <strong>the</strong><br />

largest (124ft x 46.5ft x 45ft ) and most<br />

evolved example <strong>of</strong> its class. Three<br />

important features <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> interior <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

hall are columns <strong>of</strong> pillars, <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong><br />

vault and <strong>the</strong> great sun windows.<br />

There are 37 columns in all, <strong>of</strong><br />

which 30 have interesting capitals<br />

showing prosperous men and women<br />

riding elephants and horses yet bowing<br />

in humility to <strong>the</strong> Great <strong>Buddha</strong>. The<br />

vaulted ro<strong>of</strong> has wooden supports. This<br />

is <strong>the</strong> only place in <strong>In</strong>dia where 2000<br />

year old wood work can be seen. At <strong>the</strong><br />

ABAC <strong>Journal</strong> Vol. 23, No.2 (May - August, 2003), pp. 46 - 57 53


Dr. Adarsh Batra<br />

far end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hall stands a Stupa, above<br />

which is held an umbrella, a symbol <strong>of</strong><br />

royalty. The whole system <strong>of</strong> lighting<br />

depends on <strong>the</strong> enormous sun windows<br />

through which cleverly diffused light<br />

with its light and shadows gives a great<br />

sense <strong>of</strong> solemnity.<br />

The Ajanta Caves consists <strong>of</strong> 30<br />

caves including <strong>the</strong> unfinished ones,<br />

dating back from 200 BC to 250 AD.<br />

These caves are situated 104 kms from<br />

Aurangabad and 52 kms from Jalgaon<br />

Railway Station. The caves are cut from<br />

<strong>the</strong> volcanic lava <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Deccan in <strong>the</strong><br />

forest ravines <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sahyadri Hills and<br />

are set in beautiful sylvan surroundings.<br />

They were discovered accidentally by a<br />

British Captain, John Smith in 1819,<br />

while on a hunting expedition. Ajanta<br />

provides a unique combination <strong>of</strong><br />

architecture, sculpture and paintings.<br />

Two basic types <strong>of</strong> monastic Buddhist<br />

architecture are preserved at Ajanta, <strong>the</strong><br />

Chaitya or prayer hall ( Cave Nos.<br />

9,10,19,26 & 29) and Vihara or<br />

monastery ( remaining 25 Caves).<br />

These caves suggest a well defined<br />

form <strong>of</strong> architecture, broadly resolving<br />

into two phases with a time gap <strong>of</strong><br />

about 4 Centuries from each o<strong>the</strong>r. <strong>In</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Hinayana Phase are included two<br />

Chaitya Halls ( Cave Nos. 9 & 10 ) and<br />

4 Viharas ( Cave Nos.8, 12, 13, & 15 ).<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> Mahayana Phase are included 3<br />

Chaityas ( Cave nos. 19 & 26 and 29<br />

being incomplete) and 11 exquisite<br />

Viharas ( Cave Nos. 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 11, 15,<br />

17, and 20 to 24).<br />

Situated 42 kms north <strong>of</strong> Mumbai,<br />

near Borivili, <strong>the</strong> Kanheri Caves are set<br />

in <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Borivili National<br />

Park. There are 109 Caves dating from<br />

Ist Century BC to 9th Century AD, each<br />

connected with a flight <strong>of</strong> steps. The<br />

most important one is <strong>the</strong> Cave No. 3 <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> 6th Century which has <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> excavated Chaitya Hall <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Hinayana Order. It has 34 pillars and is<br />

like a colonnaded hall 28 mtrs.x13 mtr.<br />

in dimension. These encircle a 5 mtrs.<br />

high Dagoba or Stupa and have<br />

carvings depicting elephants kneeling<br />

and worshipping <strong>the</strong> Stupa. The o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

important caves are, Cave 11, <strong>the</strong><br />

Durbar Hall or <strong>the</strong> Assembly hall with a<br />

statue <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong> occupying <strong>the</strong><br />

central place as in <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> idols in<br />

Hindu temples and also a number <strong>of</strong><br />

cells for Buddhist monk. Cave 34 is a<br />

dark cell and has paintings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Buddha</strong> on <strong>the</strong> ceiling. Cave 41 has,<br />

besides o<strong>the</strong>r sculptures, a figures <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

eleven headed Avalokiteshvara. Cave<br />

67 is a big cell, with <strong>the</strong> figures <strong>of</strong><br />

Avalokiteswara as saviour flanked by<br />

two female figures in <strong>the</strong> verandah.<br />

There are also images <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

depicting <strong>the</strong> miracle <strong>of</strong> Sravasti.<br />

Bhaja has 18 caves belonging to<br />

<strong>the</strong> 2nd Century BC. Cave No. 12 is <strong>the</strong><br />

largest and has a fine stilted vault. The<br />

last cave to <strong>the</strong> south has excellent<br />

sculptures including that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> famous<br />

‘Dancing Couple’. Bhaja Caves are<br />

located 12 km. from Lonavala and can<br />

be reached by an uphill climb <strong>of</strong> halfhour<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Malavali Railway Station<br />

54


<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>sites</strong><br />

– <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>footsteps</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

on <strong>the</strong> Mumbai- Lonavala- Pune section<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Central Railway.<br />

ABAC <strong>Journal</strong> Vol. 23, No.2 (May - August, 2003), pp. 46 - 57 55


Dr. Adarsh Batra<br />

SOUTH INDIA<br />

Nagarjuna Sagar, earlier called<br />

Vijayapuri in ancient times, is an<br />

important Buddhist site located 150<br />

kms from Hyderabad in Andhra<br />

Pradesh. It is named after <strong>the</strong> Buddhist<br />

Saint Acharya Nagarjuna and reveals<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most outstanding Buddhist<br />

civilizations <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 3rd Century AD. A<br />

replica <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> excavated site has been<br />

created and carefully preserved on an<br />

island known as Nagarjuna Konda. The<br />

excavations have uncovered<br />

Mahachaitya, <strong>the</strong> most sacred <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Stupas. An inscription in Brahmi<br />

characters states that <strong>the</strong> relics <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>Buddha</strong> lie within <strong>the</strong> Mahachaitya<br />

while o<strong>the</strong>rs have revealed <strong>the</strong><br />

existence <strong>of</strong> a Vihara and also an<br />

Aswamedha (sacrificial alter), besides<br />

tools from <strong>the</strong> Paleolithic and Neolithic<br />

ages.<br />

CONCLUSION<br />

The Buddhist Shrines <strong>of</strong> <strong>In</strong>dia have<br />

tremendous potential to attract large<br />

number <strong>of</strong> tourists from Buddhist<br />

Countries <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Far East and South-<br />

East Asia. Unfortunately due to lack <strong>of</strong><br />

proper roads, road side amenities, o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

infrastructural facilities and inadequate<br />

promotional efforts on <strong>the</strong> part <strong>of</strong><br />

tourism departments <strong>of</strong> both Central<br />

and State Governments, many such<br />

places are lying into oblivion. It is<br />

hoped that <strong>the</strong> recently inaugurated<br />

<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> Airlines flight between Bangkok<br />

and BodhGaya would greatly facilitate<br />

travel from Thailand for pilgrims to <strong>the</strong><br />

place <strong>of</strong> Lord <strong>Buddha</strong>’s enlightenment.<br />

References<br />

Ajanta and Ellora, Domestic Tourism,<br />

Safari <strong>In</strong>dia, August 1999, New<br />

Delhi, vol. XXI No. 8, pp.: 11-14.<br />

Basham, A.L. (1966), ‘The Growth <strong>of</strong><br />

Buddhism’, Religion: Cults,<br />

Doctrines and Metaphysics, The<br />

Wonder that was <strong>In</strong>dia, Canberra,<br />

pp.: 263-289.<br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Tourism, Government <strong>of</strong><br />

Bihar, <strong>Buddha</strong>m Sharanam<br />

Gachhami, New Delhi.<br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Tourism, Government <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>In</strong>dia, Buddhist Sites in <strong>In</strong>dia, New<br />

Delhi, November 1997.<br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Tourism, Government <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>In</strong>dia by <strong>In</strong>dia Tourism<br />

Development Corporation Ltd.,<br />

The Buddhist Circuit, December<br />

1993, pp.: 23-32.<br />

Department <strong>of</strong> Tourism, Government <strong>of</strong><br />

Uttar Pradesh by Director Tourism,<br />

Uttar Pradesh Itinerary Guide,<br />

Lucknow, 1998, pp.: 29-32.<br />

Dev., A. (1993), The Heritage <strong>of</strong> <strong>In</strong>dia,<br />

The Story Of Civilization, volume<br />

two, published by National Council<br />

<strong>of</strong> Educational Research and<br />

Training (NCERT), New Delhi,<br />

pp.: 374-380.<br />

56


<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>sites</strong><br />

– <strong>In</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>footsteps</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Buddha</strong><br />

<strong>In</strong>thisan, P.T. (2002), WAT THAI<br />

BUDDHAGAYA (on-line),<br />

Available:http://www.thanat.iirt.net<br />

/Wat%20Thai%20Homepage/index<br />

.html<br />

Makhfi, S.H.(1994), “<strong>Buddha</strong>’s Domain<br />

Rajgir & Nalanda”, <strong>In</strong>drama, New<br />

Delhi, Vol. XIX No. 1, pp.: 2-7.<br />

Menon, M.S.N.(1999), “Importance <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Buddhist Circuit”, The Tribune,<br />

January 15.<br />

Luniya, B.N. (1989), Splendour <strong>of</strong> Art,<br />

in Life and Culture in Ancient<br />

<strong>In</strong>dia, Third Edition, Lakshmi<br />

Narain Agarwal educational<br />

publishers, Agra, pp.: 385-390.<br />

Sharma, P. (1994), “The Monasteries <strong>of</strong><br />

Ladakh”, <strong>In</strong>drama, New Delhi,<br />

Vol. XIX No. 1, pp.: 9-14.<br />

Tripathi, M. (2002), “Buddhism comes<br />

HOME to <strong>In</strong>dia”, Sunday Style,<br />

The Nation, August 4.<br />

ABAC <strong>Journal</strong> Vol. 23, No.2 (May - August, 2003), pp. 46 - 57 57


Dr. Adarsh Batra<br />

<strong><strong>In</strong>dian</strong> <strong>Tourist</strong> <strong>sites</strong><br />

58

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