GIVE YOUR FORMULATION STAR APPEAL! - Coptis

Give your formulation
Star Appeal!
polyurethanes for cosmetics

Polyurethanes
for Cosmetics
environmentally
friendly
Film Formers and
sensory additives
easy to
formulate

innovative cosmetic raw materials
Over 60 years ago, Otto Bayer and his staff developed polyurethanes
– a significant discovery that established Bayer as a
pioneer in the field of polyurethane chemistry. Ever since,
Bayer has systematically pursued the development of
polyurethanes. We now offer innovative raw materials for the
cosmetic industry based on two technology platforms:
Aqueous polyurethane film formers
Polyurea powder as a sensory additive
easy to formulate
Baycusan ® film formers offer several formulating advantages
compared to existing film formers:
Suitable for cold processing
High energy input not required
No neutralization required
Useful over a wide range of pH
Compatibility with commonly used cosmetic ingredients
environmentally friendly
A unique manufacturing and filling process ensures the production
of highly pure polyurethanes:
Baycusan ® products are completely free of cosolvents
like ethanol or N-methylpyrrolidone
Baycusan ® products contain no preservatives
Baycusan ® film formers can be used in low- or zero-VOC hair
styling products, thus meeting the most stringent environmental
regulations.
multifunctional raw material
The Baycusan ® product line is truly diverse: It is designed
for skin care, sun care, hair styling and color cosmetic applications.
Polyurethanes meet many challenges of formulating
elegant and up to date cosmetic products due to their
versatility and beautiful aesthetics. Aqueous Baycusan ® film
former products form a clear, odorless film on skin and hair.
The process enables the design of unique polymer structures
with the following attributes:
Non-tacky, non-greasy and smooth skin feeling
Unique film elasticity and flexibility
Outstanding water/high humidity resistance
Exceptional SPF boosting effect
Baycusan ® powder imparts a powdery, velvety finish on the
skin. In decorative cosmetics, Baycusan ® powder improves
the spreadability, color expression and color uniformity of
formulations on the skin.
2 … 3

aycusan ® C portfolio
Liquid, AQueous polyurethane dispersions
powder
Baycusan ® C 1000 C 1001 C 1003 C 1004 C 1008 C 1005
INCI Name Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-32 Polyurethane-35 Polyurethane-48
Methoxy PEG-11/
Methoxy PEG-17/
HDI Isocyanurate
Trimer Crosspolymer
Solids [%] 40 ± 2 32 ± 2 50 ± 2 41 ± 2 30 ± 2 100
Avg. particle size [µm] - - - - - 30 ± 10
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.0 ± 1.5 -
Viscosity [mPa·s] ≤ 500 ≤ 1000 ≤ 1000 ≤ 500 ‹ 1000
Applications
Skin Care
Sun Care
Skin Mask
Hair Styling
Color Cosmetics
especially suitable
suitable

[SUN CARE]
SPF boosting effect
Outstanding water resistance
Stabilization properties
No “balling” effect
Non-greasy and non-sticky “skin feeling”
High formulation flexibility
Easy to use
Sun care
[Color Cosmetics]
Outstanding water resistance
Excellent abrasive resistance
Good non-transfer properties
Fast drying
Good balance of hardness and flexibility
Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin
Easy to remove
color cosmetics
[hair styling]
Excellent high humidity curl retention
Strong elastic memory
Natural strong hold
Conditioning effect (detangling effect)
Non-tacky feel and natural look
Excellent sprayability
Easy to remove (no build-up on hair)
hair STYLING
4 … 5

Sun care
[SUN care]
Key Features
SPF boosting effect
Outstanding water resistance
Stabilization properties
No “balling” effect
Non-greasy and non-sticky afterfeel on skin
High formulation flexibility
Easy to use
color cosmetics
hair STYLING
6 … 7

RECOMMENDED RAW MATERIALS
Trade NAME INCI NAME CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION USE
Baycusan ® C 1000
Polyurethane-34
Aqueous polyurethane dispersion
(40 % polymer, 60 % water)
Film former for any type of
sun care formulation
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Baycusan ® C 1000
Solids 40.0 ± 2.0 %
Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 500 mPa·s
pH 7.5 ± 1.0
Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C
Minimum film formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C
* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification

[Applications]
polyurethane film former
Baycusan ® C 1000
Sun care
FILM FORMATION
When incorporated into sun care formulations, Baycusan ® C 1000 forms a highly flexible, breathable film that mimics the movement
of skin. This film creates a naturally soft feel on the skin without any tightening sensation.
To determine the breathability of Baycusan ® C 1000, the water vapor transmission of its film on hydrated vitro skin was measured.
For comparison, hydrated vitro skin was coated with either Baycusan ® C 1000 or with a competitive polymer solution (40 % solids)
at a concentration of 2 mg/cm 2 . Figure 1 shows clearly that Baycusan ® C 1000 forms a breathable film whereas an acrylates
copolymer film former is more occlusive than either the control or Baycusan ® C 1000.
16000
color cosmetics
14000
12000
10000
g/m 2 d
8000
6000
4000
2000
0
Control
vitro skin
Baycusan ® C 1000
(as supplied)
Acrylates copolymer (40 %
in Ethanol)
hair STYLING
Figure 1: Water vapor transmission results
8 … 9

STABILIZATION PROPERTIES
These light microscopy pictures show the effect of Baycusan ® C 1000
on the structure of an oil-in-water emulsion and its influence on the
stability of the emulsion. By adding Baycusan ® C 1000 in an oil-inwater
emulsion, the oil particle diameter is reduced and the particle
distribution narrow.
RR 8021 without Baycusan ® C 1000 RR 8021 with 5 wt. % Baycusan ® C 1000
Picture 1: Light microscopy, 1 week after formulating
WATER RESISTANCE
The water resistance of oil-in-water formulations was evaluated on four formulations according to the COLIPA Guidelines (December, 2005) with five
panelists.
Formulation Concentration of Baycusan ® C 1000 [wt. %] (as supplied) Water Resistance Retention [%]
RR 8020 7.5 54.1
RR 8021 5.0 61.6
RR 8022 7.5 66.8
RR 8023 7.5 98.2
Table 1: In vivo water resistance data

[Applications]
polyurethane film former
Baycusan ® C 1000
Sun care
SPF BOOSTING EFFECT
10 % Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate - A
10 % Octocrylene - B
5 % Ethylhexyl Salicylate - C
10 % Homosalate - D
5 % Ethylhexyl Triazone - E
10 % Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine - F
10 % Methylene Bis-Benzoyltriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol - G
6 % Benzophenone-3 - H
Figure 3 shows results of in vivo SPF measurement of oil-in-water sun care formulations containing different
UV filter combinations.
As shown in Figure 2, Baycusan ® C 1000 is an effective SPF booster with Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine and Benzophenone-3.
Sun care formulations containing combination of the above mentioned UV filters with other commonly used
UV filters show this SPF boosting effects in an analogous way. As shown in figure 3, this SPF boosting effect of
Baycusan ® C 1000 is confirmed by in vitro as well as in vivo measurements.
color cosmetics
Without film former
With 5.0 % Baycusan ® C 1000
With 7.5 % Baycusan ® C 1000
35
30
25
24
33
35
30
25
29.6
23.1
32.6
26
In vitro SPF
20
15
10
5
0
12,7
12,3
6,7
14,4
5
5 5
4
2,4 2,7
3
1,9
A B C D E F G H
11
12
In vivo SPF
20
15
10
5
0
13.6
21.2
17.7
RR 8014 RR 8020 RR 8021
hair STYLING
Figure 2: In vitro data for formulation with Baycusan ® C 1000
Figure 3: In vivo SPF data formulations with and
without Baycusan ® C 1000
10 … 11

[Color Cosmetics]
Sun care
Key Features
Baycusan ® C polyurethane film former
Outstanding water resistance
Excellent abrasive resistance
Good non-transfer properties
Fast drying
Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin
Easy to remove
color cosmetics
Baycusan ® C polyurea powder
Excellent skin feeling: powdery, velvety finish on skin
Outstanding pigment spreadability (even color coverage)
Enhancement of color expression
Excellent cohesive strength of product in pressed powder form
hair STYLING
12 … 13

RECOMMENDED RAW MATERIALS
Trade NAME INCI NAME CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION USE
Baycusan ® C 1000
Polyurethane-34
Aqueous polyurethane dispersion
(40 % polymer, 60 % water)
Film former for oil-in-water and
water based color cosmetics formulations
Baycusan ® C 1004
Polyurethane-35
Aqueous polyurethane dispersion
(41 % polymer, 59 % water)
Universal film former for any type
of color cosmetics formulation
Baycusan ® C 1005
Methoxy PEG-11/Methoxy PEG-17/
HDI Isocyanurate
Trimer Crosspolymer
Polyurea powder (100 % polymer)
Multifunctional sensory additive
for any type of color cosmetics
formulation
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Baycusan ® C 1000 Baycusan ® C 1004 Baycusan ® C 1005
Solids 40.0 ± 2.0 % 41.0 ± 2.0 % 100 %
Avg. particle size – – 30 ± 10µm
Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 500 mPa·s ≤ 500 mPa·s -
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 -
Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C -45.5 °C -
Minimum film formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C ‹ 0 °C -
* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification

[Applications]
polyurethane film former
Baycusan ® C 1000 and C 1004
Sun care
OUTSTANDING WATER RESISTANCE for mascara formulations
An evaluation of water resistance was conducted in vitro by applying a mascara formulation on a wool swatch under controlled
conditions. After drying, coated swatches were submerged in water under gentle stirring at 25 °C for 30 minutes. The water resistance
was measured as the difference in color lightness (L*) and weight of the mascara layer before and after immersion. Oil-inwater
mascara formulations containing either Baycusan ® C 1000 or Baycusan ® C 1004 show improved water resistance:
79 % improvement in color retention in case of Baycusan ® C 1000.
63 % improvement in color retention in case of Baycusan ® C 1004.
Reduction of the weight loss of about 70 % with either Baycusan ® C 1000 or Baycusan ® C 1004.
color cosmetics
Color retention [%]
Weight retention [%]
Retention [%]
120
100
95,3
91,9
87,9
90,2
84
84,9
82,2
80 77,9
78,4
68,2
60
49,8
40
38,1
20
0
No film former Baycusan ® C 1004 Baycusan ® C 1000 PU dispersion 1 Acrylates copolymer 1 Acrylates copolymer 2
hair STYLING
Figure 4: Color retention & weight retention results
14 … 15

EXCELLENT RUB RESISTANCE for mascara AND EYELINER formulations
Baycusan ® C 1004 imparts superior rub-off resistance to color cosmetics formulations and is therefore an excellent choice for formulating waterproof and
rub-off resistant mascaras and eyeliners. Those excellent rub-off resistance properties of a mascara formulation (RR 8017) are demonstrated in picture 2.
Baycusan ® C 1004
Baycusan ® C 1004
warm tap water 10 seconds gentle rubbing
no film former
no film former
Picture 2: Rub-off resistant results

[Applications]
polyurethane film former
Baycusan ® C 1000 and C 1004
hair STYLING
Sun care
IMMEDIATE NON-TRANSFER PROPERTIES
The evaluation of non-transfer properties was conducted in vivo by spreading a fixed amount of foundation onto the forearm of
volunteers under controlled conditions. After drying, the volunteers left an imprint of their forearm on a sheet of absorbing paper.
As shown in picture 3, the imprints left from different foundation formulations containing Baycusan ® C 1004 are significantly reduced
compared to standard formulations without Baycusan ® C 1004.
O/W
W/O
W/S
color cosmetics
Standard Baycusan ® C 1004
Standard Baycusan ® C 1004
Standard Baycusan ® C 1004
Picture 3: Results of imprints
16 … 17

[Applications]
Polyurea Powder
Baycusan ® C 1005
Elegant finish and LUXURIOUS FEEL
Sensory evaluation was performed on a liquid foundation containing Baycusan® C 1005 and compared to a negative control (without powder). As
illustrated below, in the sensory profile chart, Baycusan ® C 1005 provides better spreadability and a powdery and less tacky afterfeel on the skin.
Furthermore, Baycusan ® C 1005 imparts superior even-color coverage and color brightness in the formulation in comparison to a negative control.
Sensory profile of a liquid foundation
(performed by Dermscan):
Control Baycusan ® C 1005
Transferability*
Fluidity
15,0
12,0
Consistence
Thickness
9,0
Easiness of spreading
Powdery sensation
6,0
3,0
Powdery touch
0,0
Velvety skin
Covering effect
Comment: The attributes were quantified on
Oily skin
Uniformity
linear scales from 0 to 15.
0 means that the attribute is not detectable and
15 means 100 % detectable.
The attributes with an asterisk (*) are significant.
Stickiness
Brightness of the colour
Shining skin
Velvety effect

Sun care
Enhancement of color expression in Lipsticks
Baycusan ® C 1005 positively affects the pigment spreadability of any type of
pigmented formulation. This excellent pigment spreadability is demonstrated
by an even color distribution on skin (better color pay-off) and a better coverage,
as shown in picture 4 in case of a lipstick formulation.
Picture 4: From left to right: control formulation 1 (with a competitive
powder 1), control formulation 2 (with a competitive powder
2), formulation with 4,7 wt. % Baycusan ® C 1005 (formulation
RR 8028).
IMPROVEMENT OF THE COHESIVE STRENGTH OF PRESSED POWDER
Figure 5 displays the influence of Baycusan ® C 1005 and other widely used powders like Nylon-12, Silica, Polyethylene etc. on the
cohesive strength of an eyeshadow pressed powder, at a concentration of 2 wt. % active. In order to quantify the cohesive strength
of the pressed powders, a drop test was performed: 10 times onto cement from a height of 30 cm. The number of drops required
to produce cracks in the pressed powder was noted. As shown in Figure 5, Baycusan ® C 1005 imparts not only a powdery, velvety
finish on skin, but improves significantly the cohesive strength of the formula, too.
color cosmetics
Recorded # of drops,
when cracking is visible
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
10
Without
3
Bismuth
Oxychloride
4
Polyethylene
10
Methyl Methacrylase
Crosspolymer
6
Nylon-12
7
Silica
1
Calcium Aluminium
Borosilicate
no cracking visible
Baycusan ®
C1005
hair STYLING
Figure 5: Water vapor transmission results
18 … 19

Sun care
[Hair styling]
color cosmetics
Key Features
Excellent high humidity curl retention
Strong elastic memory
Natural strong hold
Conditioning effect (detangling effect)
Non-tacky feel and natural look
Excellent sprayability
Easy to remove (no build-up on hair)
hair STYLING
20 … 21

RECOMMENDED RAW MATERIALS
Trade NAME INCI NAME CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION USE
Baycusan ® C 1001
Polyurethane-34
Aqueous polyurethane dispersion
(32 % polymer, 68 % water)
Hair styling film former for any
kind of hair styling product
Baycusan ® C 1008
Polyurethane-48
Aqueous polyurethane dispersion
(30 % polymer, 70 % water)
Hair styling film former for any
kind of hair styling product
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Baycusan ® C 1001 Baycusan ® C 1008
Solids 32.0 ± 2.0 % 30.0 ± 2.0 %
Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 1000 mPa·s ‹ 1000 mPa·s
pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.0 ± 1.5
Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C -45.5 °C
Minimal film formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C ‹ 5 °C
* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification

[Applications]
Polyurethane film former
Baycusan ® C 1001 and C 1008
Sun care
Excellent high humidity curl retention
Baycusan ® C 1001 and Baycusan ® C 1008 provide excellent high humidity curl retention for styling formulations, even better than
traditional styling polymers. As shown below, curl retention is measured as a function of time at 75 % humidity and at 25 °C.
Caucasian, dark brown hair tresses were treated with an aqueous solution of Baycusan ® C 1001 and Baycusan ® C 1008 at a concentration
of 2 wt. % active (~0.3 g of Baycusan ® C solution/0,7 g hair).
VARIABLE HOLDING POWER
Figure 6/7 shows a comparison of flexural strength tests (2 wt. % active polymer in alcoholic solution, 50 % relative humidity,
21 °C). Baycusan ® C 1008 imparts a strong holding power, in the same level as state of art acrylate copolymers.
color cosmetics
100
95
90
Competitive PU2
High Humidity Curl Retention [%]
85
80
75
70
65
60
55
50
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350
Competitive PU1
Acrylate copolymer
Baycusan ® C 1001
Baycusan ® C 1008
hair STYLING
Time [min.]
0 50 100 150 200 250
Baycusan ® C 1008 Acrylate copolymer Baycusan ® C 1001
Maximum bending force [cN]
Figure 6/7: Results of HHCR test and flexural strength tests
22 … 23

High elasticity on hair
Compared to traditional fixative polymers, Baycusan ® C 1001 forms exceptionally flexible films on hair. Below are
SEM images of single knotted hair fibers coated with an acrylate copolymer and Baycusan ® C 1001. Under stress,
the acrylate copolymer film becomes very brittle, while the film on Baycusan ® C 1001 remains smooth and shows
no cracking.
Baycusan ® C 1001
Acrylates Copolymer

Sun care
Excellent style retention
Elasticity is one of the key characteristics of Baycusan ® C 1001. This property results in excellent curl resilience, as shown on figure 8 and pictures
below. The graph illustrates the change in curl retention after combing through. After combing through 10 times, Baycusan ® C 1001 clearly exhibits a
superior curl retention in comparison to an acrylate copolymer and a competitive polyurethane. The pictures below show the results after combing
through 40 times.
Curl retention measurement after dry combing
% Curl retention
90
85
80
75
70
65
60
55
50
45
40
0 10 20 30 40 50
x comb-through
Baycusan ® C 1001 Acrylate copolymer Competitive PUD
Results after 40x dry comb-through
Initial curl Acrylate copolymer Competitive polyurethane Baycusan ® C 1001
color cosmetics
hair STYLING
Figure 8: CR measurements
Picture 5: Results after combing
24 … 25

Curious?
Then visit us at www.bayercosmetics.com or contact us.
Martin Hüttner
Phone: 0049 – (0)214 – 30 81712
Email: cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com
Sophie Viala
Phone: 0049 – (0)214 – 30 44762
Email: cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com
26 … 27

MS00052980
This information and our technical advice – whether verbal, in writing or by way of trials – is given in good faith but without a
warranty, and this also applies where proprietary rights of third parties are involved. It does not release you from the obligation to
test the products supplied by us as to their suitability for the intended processes and uses.
The application, use and processing of the products are beyond our control and, therefore, entirely your own responsibility.
Should, in spite of this, liability be established for any damage, it will be limited to the value of the goods delivered by us and used
by you. We will, of course, provide products of consistent quality within the scope of our General Conditions of Sale and Delivery.
Edition: 2011-03 · Order-No.: MS00052980 · Printed in Germany · D
Bayer MaterialScience AG
51368 Leverkusen
Germany
www.bayercosmetics.com
cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com