ENOMETRICS XVIII - Vineyard Data Quantification Society VDQS

Enometrics XVIII VDQS 

ENOMETRICS XVIII 

Angers, France 

May 2011, 18—21 

Scientific Committee 

Stefania CHIRONI 

Marie-Claude PICHERY 

Kym ANDERSON 

Orley ASCHENFELTER 

Nelson BARBER 

Isabel BARDAJI Azcárate 

Jan BENTZEN 

Boris BRAVO-URETA 

Joëlle BROUARD 

Maurizio CIASCHINI 

Pierre COMBRIS 

Nathalie CORADE 

Silvia GATTI 

Théodore GEORGOPOULOS 

Eric GIRAUD-HERAUD 

Danièle MEULDERS 

Jean-François OUTREVILLE 

Robert PLASMAN 

Henri SERBAT 

Michel SERIEYS 

Orlando SIMÕES 

Costas SIRIOPOULOS 

Pavel TOMŠIK 

Università di Palermo 

Université de Bourgogne 

Université d'Adelaïde 

U. Princeton 

University of New Hampshire 

Universidad Politécnica de Madrid 

U. Aarhus 

U Connecticut, USA & U Talca, Chile 

ESC - Dijon – IMW 

Université de Macerata 

INRA 

ENITA Bordeaux 

Università degli studi di Bologna 

Université de Reims 

INRA – Paris 

U.L.Bruxelles 

HEC Montréal – Québec 

DULBEA 

EuAWE 

ISARA-Lyon 

ESA de Coimbra 

Université de Patras 

MUAF in Brno 

Local Committee 

Université Angers : Granem & LEA. ESA Angers 

Krista DUNIACH, Serge BLONDEL, Justin COHEN, Michel DARMON, 

Dominique JONCHERAY, Dominique LEMARCHAND, Herve MENOU, 

Jean-Michel MONNIER, Dominique SAGOT-DUVAUROUX, Catherine STONA 

Coordination 

Françoise BOURDON, U. Bourgogne, VDQS General Secretary 

FedEco-Service 

2 Angers 2011 www.vdqs.net

Enometrics XVIII 

General Overview 

Wednesday May 18 th 2011 

4.45 - 6.00 pm Registration 

6.00 - 7.30 pm Public Opening Session p 5 

8.00 - 9.00 pm Reception at the Jean Lurçat Museum 

Thursday May 19 th 2011 

8.20 -09.00 am Registration & Coffee 

9.00 -10.20 am S1 Sustainable Development p 11 

10.40 -11.40 am S2 Strategy and International Trade p 15 

11.40 -12.20 am Opening Ceremony p 19 

1.30 - 3.00 pm S3a Consumption 1 p 21 

S3b Consumption 2 p 29 

3.20 - 4.40 pm S4a Terroirs & Territories p.33 

S4b Grape & Wine Grower p.39 

5.00 - 6.10 pm S5 Information & Education p.47 

6.30 - 11.30 pm Gala Evening at the “Beaux-Arts” Museum 

Friday May 20 st 2011 

8.20 -09.40 am S6 Œnotourism p 53 

10.00 -11.20 am S7 Wine & Law p 57 

11.20 -12.20 am S8 Poster Session p.61 

1.30 - 2.40 pm S9 Value of the Wine p.73 

3.00 - 4.20 pm S10 Gastronomy p.79 

4.30 - 6.00 pm Prize Awards & Cocktail offred by the LEA Dpt 

Saturday May 21 nd 2011 

Tourism 


How to Use 

This Booklet of Abstracts? 

You will find in this booklet all the abstracts of the 

submissions which were accepted by the scientific 

committee. 

At the end of this booklet, you can find a complete 

alphabetical list of all authors and co-authors with a link 

to the page where you can find their abstract. 

Unfortunately, some speakers have informed us that they 

will be unable to participate in the conference. However, 

their abstracts have been included in this booklet. 

Please, note also that you can find the full version of 

those papers (an some time also the ppt presentation) on 

the website of the conference, in the private area 

reserved for VDQS - EuAWE –SQG members. 

www.vdqs.net/2011Angers 

You have to wait our next Conference 

for 2012, it will be in Coïmbra (Portugal) 

Expecting this event, please do not forget 

to consult our web site. 

to participate in our facebook page 

and 

to send our work to publish in Enometrica 

www.EuAWE.org Angers 2011 3 




Wednesday May 18th 2011 

6.30 pm 

Public Opening Session 

Welcome Address 

Didier LEGALL 

Doyen de la Faculté des Lettres, Langues et Sciences Humaines 

Université d'Angers 

Keynote Speeches 

"French Paradox" 

mythe ou réalité 

Ramaroson ANDRIANTSITOHAINA 

Directeur de Recherche, Inserm U694 

Université Angers, UFR Sciences 

"Vin en Chine" 

Robert TINLOT 

Directeur Général Honoraire de l'OIV 

Président de l'Académie Amorim 





Le «French Paradox» : mythe ou réalité 

ANDRIANTSITOHAINA Ramaroson 

Epidemiological studies report an inverse association between moderate red wine 

consumption and mortality from cardiovascular diseases especially in the southwest of 

France. This phenomenon has been termed “French Paradox”. Red wine contains a wide 

variety of polyphenols and exerts numerous effects including antioxidant and free radical 

properties, anti-platelet aggregating and anti-thrombotic activities. Moreover, red wine 

polyphenols are powerful vasodilators via the production of nitric oxide by endothelial cells 

lining the inner surface of blood vessels. Evidences have been provided that these polyphenols 

activate the alpha isoform of the oestrogene receptor. Although the available data indicate 

that red wine might be of benefit for cardiovascular protection, prospective controlled clinical 

trials are still lacking. 

Des nombreuses études épidémiologiques s’accordent sur une réduction du risque de 

maladies cardiovasculaires pour les consommateurs « modérés » de vin rouge. Le phénomène 

a été baptisé « French Paradox », essentiellement parce que dans le Sud-Ouest de la France, 

de façon assez surprenante, il y a relativement peu d’accidents cardiovasculaires malgré une 

alimentation riche en graisses saturées et en vin. Une des explications du mécanisme 

moléculaire de cette protection provient des polyphénols du vin qui exercent de nombreux 

effets, y compris de propriétés antioxydants, et des activités antiagrégants plaquettaires et 

anti-thrombotiques. En outre, les polyphénols du vin rouge sont responsables d'un effet 

vasodilatateur, via la production de monoxyde d’azote, par les cellules "endothéliales" qui 

tapissent la paroi interne des vaisseaux. Le mécanisme élucidé passe par l'un des récepteurs 

des hormones naturelles, les œstrogènes, des cellules de la paroi vasculaire. Bien que le vin 

rouge pourrait avoir un bénéfice thérapeutique dans les maladies cardiovasculaires, la 

prospective des études cliniques contrôlées fait encore défaut. 





"Vin en Chine" 

Robert TINLOT 

A market for wine consumption is growing higher and extends day by day, a wine culture 

that is constantly developing in terms of quantity and quality, the influx of Chinese experts in 

making wine, all provides excellent conditions for a prodigious expansion of the wine industry 

in this country. In recent years, with the continued growth of wine consumption in China, the 

acreage of vineyards has grown rapidly and continuously in this country. The wine culture of 

quality has undergone constant development in some areas. All this puts a solid foundation 

for the rapid growth of Chinese vineyards. 

It must be innate talent to be able to really reach the summit of world vineyards and 

countries that are really strong in this area each have a long traditional past and a great wine 

tradition. In fact, most Chinese have little knowledge about wine and the vineyard. Therefore 

we must ensure that consumers can make Chinese wine personally experience the fascination 

of wine culture. And this is actually a process imperceptible. For this purpose it is necessary 

for Chinese enterprises to make wine together to achieve this goal. 

Un marché de consommation de vin supérieur qui s'agrandit et s'étend de jour en jour, 

une culture viticole qui se développe constamment sur le plan de la quantité et de la qualité, 

l'afflux en Chine des experts en vinification, tout cela constitue d'excellentes conditions à un 

essor prodigieux de l'industrie vinicole dans ce pays.Ces dernières années, avec la croissance 

continuelle de la consommation du vin en Chine, la surface cultivée de vignes a augmenté 

rapidement et sans cesse dans ce pays. La culture viticole de qualité a connu un 

développement constant dans certaines régions. Tout cela jette une base solide à la 

croissance rapide du vignoble chinois. 

Il faut être inné et doué pour pouvoir atteindre vraiment le sommet du vignoble mondial 

et les pays qui sont réellement forts dans ce domaine ont chacun un long passé traditionnel et 

une excellente tradition vinicole. En réalité, la plupart des Chinois ont peu de connaissances 

sur le vin et sur le vignoble. C'est pourquoi il faut faire en sorte que les consommateurs 

chinois du vin puissent faire personnellement l'expérience de la fascination de la culture du 

vin. Et cela est en fait un processus imperceptible. A cet effet, il faut que les entreprises 

chinoises de fabrication du vin conjuguent leurs efforts pour atteindre cet objectif. 




Thursday May 19th 2011 

9.00 -10.20 am 

Session 1 

SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT 

Chaired by Nelson BARBER 

Une évaluation expérimentale des incitations aux pratiques 

respectueuses de l'environnement dans le vin 

Joëlle BROUARD, Angela SUTAN, Emilie GINON 

Institut du Management du Vin & LESSAC, ESC Dijon FR p. 12 

Carbon Footprint, Food Miles and the International Wine 

Trade : Some Implications 

Graziella BENEDETTO 

Dipt. di Economia e Sistemi Arborei, Università di Sassari , IT 

p.13 

Reducing Pesticides in Viticulture Requires a Wine Grower’s 

Behavior Change: Studying Constraints of Implementation of 

Pesticides Reduction Use 

Adeline UGAGLIA, Bernard DEL’HOMME 

USC INRA GAIA / ENITA Bordeaux, FR p.14 


Une évaluation expérimentale 

des incitations aux pratiques respectueuses 

de l'environnement dans le vin 

Joëlle BROUARD, Emilie GINON, Angela SUTAN 

IMV, LESSAC, Burgundy School of Business, ESC Dijon 

angela.sutan@escdijon.eu, joelle.brouard@escdijon.eu, emilie.ginon@escdijon.eu 

Si la vigne ne couvre actuellement que 3% de la surface agricole utile en France, elle 

représente pourtant 20% des consommations de pesticides (Aubertot et al, 2005); en outre, 

les niveaux de contamination observés dans le vin sont considérablement plus élevés que 

Concentrations Maximales Admissibles (PAN, 2008). Lors de l'annonce du plan de réduction 

de l'utilisation des pesticides, les syndicats professionnels ont indiqué que "la mesure fixée ne 

pouvait pas être atteignable en l’état, et que cette réduction devait être conditionnée au 

développement de méthodes alternatives sous réserve de leur mise au point" (MDRGF, 2007). 

Ce projet repose sur l'hypothèse que la performance d'une exploitation viticole peut être 

envisagée sous d'autres angles que celui du rendement de la vigne, mais cela passe par des 

incitations ciblées pour les producteurs et les consommateurs de vin : en particulier, une vigne 

performante est aussi une vigne qui a une performance environnementale. Se pose alors la 

question de la manière dont ces incitations fonctionnent, par qui et comment devraient-elles 

être mises en œuvre? Nous pouvons partager cette question générale en deux questions 

spécifiques : d'une part, comment inciter les producteurs à s'impliquer durablement dans la 

réduction de l'utilisation des pesticides? Puisque l'utilisation des pesticides équivaut à une 

assurance de coût très faible, et qui garantit un rendement certain, plus on monte dans la 

gamme des appellations, moins le producteur a intérêt à réduire son utilisation de pesticides 

car les risques de perte de la production seraient trop importants. Ainsi, le producteur devra 

avoir la certitude que les consommateurs ou les pouvoir publics fourniraient une assurance 

alternative : soit les consommateurs acceptent de payer une prime pour les vins sans 

pesticides, soit les pouvoirs publics concèdent des aides importantes à la mise en place de 

productions respectueuses de l'environnement. 

Quelles sont les informations qui ont un effet sur le comportement du producteur, qui 

l'incitent à le modifier dans le sens de la réduction de l'utilisation des pesticides, et à croire 

que cela sera suivi d'une valorisation par les consommateurs ou d'un appui par les pouvoirs 

publics ? Nous répondons à ce volet à travers des jeux expérimentaux de type bien public avec 

assurance, à travers lesquels nous déterminons le cycle des consentements des producteurs à 

s'engager dans une telle démarche. Nous mettons en place ces expériences avec des 

véritables producteurs. D'autre part, comment sont incités les consommateurs à prendre en 

compte la réduction des pesticides dans la production du vin? Comment valorisent-ils 

l'engagement environnemental d'un producteur? Nous avons pour but de mieux connaître les 

attentes des consommateurs en termes de vins sans pesticides. Il s’agira de valider les 

caractéristiques souhaitées par les consommateurs par des méthodes implicatives, et de 

révéler les cycles de consentement des consommateurs autour des vins sans pesticides, sur la 

base de leur perception de l'utilisation des pesticides dans la production du vin. Enfin, nous 

formulons des recommandations à l'usage des acteurs de la filière. 




Carbon Footprint, Food Miles and the International Wine Trade 

Some Implications 

Graziella BENEDETTO 

Università di Sassari 

gbenedet@uniss.it 

Food production and consumption is one of the most resource and energy demanding 

activities of households in the developed world. Throughout the life cycle of foods, the 

provision and use of materials and energy result in contributions to a wide range of 

environmental impacts. Wine industries have significant impact on vineyard microclimates 

alteration, and they also incur costs that are passed on to society. These externalized costs 

include non-product output such as Carbon Dioxide (CO2) emission, chemical effluent, and 

other wastes that contributed to the global tragedy of commons. Understanding the type and 

magnitude of these externalities helps prepare companies and industries for potential impacts 

from regulation on such externalities, helps to promote accountability to consumers, and 

helps to identify opportunities for innovation and cost-savings. The environmental 

performance of products and processes has become a key issue, so that some retailers took 

position in relation to imported wines: eg the British TESCO since january 2007, announced 

that every product sold would have a carbon rate or the “carbon footprint” displayed on its 

label (Rigby et al, 2007); Wal-Mart, has recently introduced a ‘Global Sustainable Sourcing 

Initiative’, committing it to prefer suppliers that aggressively reduce CO2 emissions and use 

recycled or recyclable packaging, which is why some research centres and companies are 

investigating ways to minimize their effects on the environment. Wine is a widely consumed 

product and has an important role in world trade, with the United States and the United 

Kingdom being the largest importing countries, so this could also lead to implications for the 

Italian market. 

By directly or indirectly encouraging discrimination against products originating in 

geographically distant markets, however, importing states risk breaching the Marrakesh 

Agreement and in particular the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade and the TBT 

Agreement. Although the objective of sustainable development has been embedded within 

the World Trade Organization framework, under these Agreements environmental measures 

must be WTO compliant and must not constitute disguised restrictions on international trade. 

Arguably, discriminating against food products on the basis of food miles without scientific 

evidence, establishing a link between long distance transport and negative impact on 

sustainability amounts to a disguised restriction on international trade. 

In the food miles debate, several authors have calculated the consumption of CO2 

associated with the distance traveled by the wine to reach the target markets and means of 

transport used: It seems that the distance travelled may not be as important as the 

transportation method. Nigel Greening of Felton Road Vineyard in New Zealand has calculated 

that shipping a case of his wine by container vessel to London uses 4.048kg of CO2 which is 

equivalent to 1,150km by truck, giving a bottle a 337g carbon count. 

That could mean it's better to buy wine from New Zealand than it is from southern 

France, Italy or Spain where it comes by truck to the UK. But this area is under-researched and 

more reliable data is needed. Alternatively, adopting a mandatory carbon footprinting 

framework which imposes significant cost upon exporters in distant markets discriminates 

unnecessarily against those exporters and creates a substantial impediment to international 

trade. The embrace of carbon footprinting and local food sourcing as environmental measures 



designed to reduce greenhouse gas emissions poses a potential threat to Italian wine export 

industries which are geographically distant to importing market and vice versa. Food transport 

costs can add considerably to a product’s carbon footprint and detrimentally affect sales. The 

raison d’être of carbon footprinting is to encourage responsible environmental production 

methods. However, the author questions whether this aim can be effectively fulfilled and 

whether carbon footprinting and local food sourcing policies are instruments of antiglobalisation 

sentiment and thus can be challenged under the World Trade Organization 

framework. 

So, the aim of this paper is to reasoning around these demands: Does Food Miles 

Labelling or Carbon Footprinting Lead to Discrimination against Imported wines? What 

solutions are proposed to reduce the cost of transportation of wine and what impact it can 

have on the final consumer? And so on 

Reducing Pesticides in Viticulture 

Requires a Wine Grower’s Behavior Change 

Studying Constraints of Implementation 

of Pesticides Reduction Use 

UGAGLIA Adeline, DEL’HOMME Bernard 

Université de Bordeaux, ISVV – ENITAB USC INRA GAIA 

a-ugaglia@enitab.fr, b-delhomme@enitab.fr 

Following the French governmental program “Grenelle de l’environnement”, Ministry of 

Agriculture has adopted a plan “Ecophyto 2018” planning a 50 % reduction of pesticides use 

before 2018. To attempt this goal in viticulture, particularly concerned by pesticides use (20 % 

of pesticides consumption for 3 % of agricultural utilized area), new strategies for vineyards 

protection are requested. Once some technical way has been found, it has to be implemented 

in a significant number of farms to produce a real effect in pesticides reduction. A new plant 

protection solution has to be tested towards wine growers, to evaluate from economical and 

sociological point of view, their acceptability for adopting such innovation. 

In Aquitaine, such an innovation does exist, through POD mildium, a process created by 

INRA 3 years ago and already experimented. This process is an help decision method for 2 

main diseases, powdery and downy mildew, which represent 70 % of fungicides used in 

viticulture. In 2009, a survey has been leaded through wine estates participating to the 

experimental network. Its goal was to estimate constraints in implementing POD mildium at 

estate level. Starting on plant protection practices, the survey has studied difficulties found by 

wine growers when adopting POD on a plot, and which problems could remain when using 

POD on all estate. Main results of this survey are presented, showing mainly that a new 

technology in plant protection requires new behavior for succeeding. 




10.40 - 11.40 am 

Session 2 

STRATEGY & INTERNATIONAL 

Chaired by Maurizio CIASCHINI 

Improvement of the Performance of the Wine Cooperatives: 

the Solution of the Benchmarking 

Frédéric COURET 

Laboratoire GAIA - E.N.I.T.A de Bordeaux - FR p. 16 

Modelizacion de los intercambios comerciales en el mercado 

del vino de la Union Europea 

Juan Sebastian CASTILLO VALERO, Maria Carmen GARCIA 

CORTIJO 

Instituto Desarrollo Regional , Universidad Castilla La Mancha - ES p. 17 

Norwegian Wine Imports: a Gravity Model Approach 

Maria Bonaria LAI, Ivan ETZO, Carla MASSIDDA 

Economics Department, University of Cagliari - IT p. 18 


Improvement of the Performance of the Wine-Cooperatives 

The Solution of the Benchmarking 

Frédéric COURET 

Laboratoire GAIA - E.N.I.T.A de Bordeaux 

f.couret@enitab.fr 

The wine-producing cooperatives are confronted with requierements of competiveness 

because of several factors: the fall in prices, the power of the large distribution, the 

intensification of the international competition, the behaviour of the consumer, the 

environmental protection. 

To adapt itself, the wine-producing cooperatives have to find new strategic options and 

to set up news tools of management. The benchmarking is one of them. It aims to observe the 

partners, to measure the differences of performance between the cooperatives, to bring to 

light the factors which explain these differences and then to adopt practices and methods 

considered better 

In 2008, 16 wine-producing cooperatives had participated in an operation of 

benchmarking. The benchmarking consisted first to define a comparable performance 

indicator and then to identifying the key factors of performance which are marks for the 

future strategy and activity. 30 analyzed factors of performance are presented in the paper 

among which the size of the cooperative, the control of the costs, the conquest of the short 

circuits, the process of concentration, etc. 

The paper deals then with 2 fundamental and convergent questions: 

- How can performance be modelled? In other words, are there winning strategies for 

cooperatives? 

- How to take into account the not measurable factors such as the manager skills? 




Modelización de los Intercambios Comerciales 

en el Mercado del Vino de la Unión Europea. 

Juan Sebastián CASTILLO VALERO, Maria Carmen GARCÍA CORTIJO 

Instituto de Desarrollo Regional (Universidad de Castilla La Mancha).-ESPAÑA 

sebastian.castillo@uclm.es 

El mundo del vino es cada vez más competitivo y requiere ampliar sus mercados a los 

internacionales para mantener un crecimiento; así, es necesario conocer sus características, 

necesidades y posición. A modo de ejemplo, en el caso español, en 2010, las exportaciones de 

vino crecieron un 17,4%, hasta los 1.275 millones de litros, frente a los 1.085 millones 

obtenidos en 2009, según datos del Observatorio Español del Mercado del Vino (OeMv). Estos 

datos muestran una dinámica tendencia de las exportaciones españolas de vino, que parece 

consolidarse con el paso de los meses, no sólo en volumen, sino también en valor, 

recuperando los mercados de Italia y Francia en la UE y los de Rusia y China fuera de la UE. 

Pero, ¿qué influye en las relaciones comerciales?.En esta investigación intentaremos 

responder a esta cuestión por la importancia de conocer el comportamiento comercial entre 

España y los países con los que mantiene un mayor nivel de exportaciones (Italia y Francia), 

importaciones (Alemania, Reino Unido y EE.UU), así como con mercados emergentes (China y 

Rusia) y determinar hasta qué punto variables como: el precio, la calidad del vino, la distancia, 

la segmentación, entre otros factores, pueden afectar a sus flujos comerciales. 

Así, y con diferentes modelos econométricos, primero, estudiaremos el nivel de 

integración del mercado de cada uno de los países productores principales, Italia, Francia y 

España, en los mercados internacionales. Después, identificaremos y mediremos el peso de 

diferentes variables, económicas, sociales, políticas, que influyen en los intercambios 

internacionales de vinos, tanto en los mercados consolidados como en los emergentes. 

Teniendo en cuenta el objetivo de nuestro estudio y los datos disponibles, los modelos 

econométricos más aptos son los «Modelos de Vectores Autorregresivos» y los «Modelos 

Gravitacionales». Los primeros son idóneos para el estudio de la integración de mercados y 

nos permite deducir, a través de las series de precios, el comportamiento de los mercados, su 

evolución según campañas, el grado de dispersión y variación en el tiempo y el espacio de los 

precios, informar sobre los rasgos estructurales y coyunturales de cada mercado en particular. 

Dicho conocimiento es necesario a priori, para revelar las similitudes y diferencias entre los 

mercados y la diferente situación de partida para entrar en ellos y plantear en los segundos 

modelos, los modelos gravitacionales. La principal novedad de la investigación, es que estos 

modelos, será aplicados por vez primera al mercado del vino y con ellos avanzaremos en 

perfilar los requisitos que están latentes para mantener intercambios comerciales en 

mercados ya consolidados y cuáles atraen y consolidan a los mercados emergentes. 


Norwegian Wine Imports: a Gravity Model Approach 

ETZO Ivan, LAI Maria Bonaria, MASSIDDA Carla 

Economics Department University of Cagliari 

mblai@unica.it; ivanetzo@hotmail.com; massidda@unica.it 

Over the last decades, Norwegian wine consumption has strongly increased. The great 

part of this consumption is satisfied by import flows which exhibit an increasing trend as well. 

Many countries are involved in this process, traditional exporters, as well as new world wine 

producers, interested in the potentials offered by the recent expansion of the Norwegian wine 

market. The aim of this paper is to investigate the main determinants of wine imports in 

Norway. At this scope we implement a gravity model, duly augmented, that considers 

unilateral wine import flows from the major exporting countries as dependent variable and a 

set of five determinants. According to our preliminary results, distance exerts a, unexpected, 

statistically significant positive role, together with the lagged dependent variable. Conversely, 

relative prices report an high and significant negative elasticity meaning that Norwegians are 

strongly affected by price differentials across the countries of origin. For the other variables 

considered in the analysis, i.e. Norwegian outbound tourism flows and the number of 

foreigners currently living in Norway, we have not found strong statistical significance levels. 





Thursday June 10th 2010 

11.40 - 12.20 am 

Opening Ceremony 

Welcome Address 

Daniel MARTINA 

Président de l'Université d'Angers 

Presentation of Wines 

of the Val de Loire 

By Jean-Michel MONNIER 

Oenologue, UFR ITBS-ESTHUA Angers University 

"Au printemps de chaque nouvelle année, profitez des beaux jours pour flâner dans les 

vignes qui bourgeonnent et aller déguster le nouveau millésime récolté quelques mois plus 

tôt... Vous découvrirez alors des rouges souples et friands possédant une robe délicate aux 

nuances rubis et framboises de leur tendre jeunesse." … 

"In the spring of each year, enjoy the fine weather to stroll through the vines bud and go 

enjoy the new vintage harvested a few months earlier. You will discover flexible and fond of 

red dress with a delicate nuances of ruby red raspberries and their tender youth." … 





1.30 - 3.00 pm 

Session 3a 

CONSUMPTION 1 

Chaired by Serge BLONDEL 

Wine label Design as Marketing Tool to Attract Consumers 

Attention. A Marketing Study to Know Wine Product Positioning 

Stefania CHIRONI, Marzia INGRASSIA 

Faculty of Agriculture, University of Palermo – IT p.22 

Consumer Perceptions and Acceptance of Innovation in Wine 

Packaging: An International Approach 

Krista DUNIACH, Caroline MILTGEN, Gaelle PANTIN-SOHIER, 

Alice SOHIER 

Granem – Université d’Angers – FR p.23 

Modeling the Impact of Social Interactions on Wine Purchasing 

Behavior 

Tatiana BOUZDINE–CHAMEEVA, Serge GALAM 

BEM - Bordeaux Management School, École Polytechnique and 

CNRS, CREA – FR p.24 

Evaluation of the Effects of Changes in Regulatory Policies on 

Consumers Perception 

Emilio CHIODO, Andréa FANTINI, Nicola CASOLANI 

University of Teramo – IT p.25 

An Explorative Study of Wine Marketing from 2000 to 2010: 

the Status of the Research by Themes treated and Countries 

Involved 

Emmanuel CAMERON, Johanne BRUNET, Justin COHEN 

HEC Montreal – CA, Groupe ESA - FR p.26 


Wine label Design as Marketing Tool 

to Attract Consumers ‘Attention 

A Marketing Study to Know Wine Product Positioning. 

Stefania CHIRONI, Marzia INGRASSIA 

Faculty of Agriculture, University of Palermo, Department DEMETRA (Section Economics) 

chirstef@unipa.it, marzia.ingrassia@mail.com 

Wine sector encountered lots of changes over the last two decades and these changes 

influenced wine consumption habits. In fact, more and more consumers buy wine not as a 

common drink but as a product of quality. In this evolution it is important for producers to 

focus both on product quality (a basic element for wine) and on innovation, research and 

marketing. Among the elements that play an important role for wine product, today 

producers pay more attention to packaging, because it provides to consumers information on 

the product and, at the same time, it communicates company’s value prepositions with 

modern or classic designs, colors and pictures. Certainly it’s not easy to express with a small 

wine label all that a producer wants to say about a wine and about itself. But the important 

thing for producers is to create the wine identity for each product because wine is a product 

that needs to be recognized by consumers, also thanks to its label. 

So wine producers use labels as a differentiator in the market, choosing colors, pictures 

and other elements that give to consumer basic information about the wine ( year and 

territory of production, type of grape used, denomination of origin, etc. ) but at the same time 

are recognized as elements of distinction. Besides, wine label has a very ancient past, in fact 

both Greeks and Romans used it to describe label the content of the jars where the wine was 

stored. 

Today, wine labels also became collector’s items, so much that in Italy, wine label 

collectors created the Italian Association of Collectors Wine Labels (AICEV). Therefore, with 

this study, we wanted to know how wine label can be a promotion tool for producers and the 

importance that consumers give to it when they buy a wine. So we submitted to three 

samples of consumers with different type of expertise and expectation a sample of wine labels 

of Sicilian wines that we classified in four types (classic, modern-classic, with references to 

territory, with modern colours and design), asking them to provide information about the 

visual impact of each label (first without the brand and then with the brand) and the price 

they were willing to pay for a bottle of wine based on each label. We also wanted to know 

how wine label influence each type of consumer in choosing a wine. 

We calculated the relative price variability for each label and for type of consumer. Then 

we calculated the statistic media dependence between the types of label and the prices, for 

each category of consumer (correlation and dependence, Tschuprow coefficient and other 

similar indexes). Finally we wanted to evaluate the market positioning for each label also with 

a comparison between the prices given by consumers and the ones chosen by producers 

(Spearman’s rank correlation coefficient). Results obtained give information on positioning 

strategies of chosen brands and help us to understand if wine label is an important element 

for consumers while they are choosing a wine. 

Analyse du marché des boissons alcoolisées au VietNam 

Françoise SEYTE, Thai Quang NGUYEN 

UFR ECONOMIE Montpellier – FR p. 27 




Consumer Perceptions and Acceptance of Innovation 

in Wine Packaging: an International Approach 

Krista DUNIACH, Caroline MILTGEN, 

Gaëlle PANTIN-SOHIER, Alice SOHIER 

GRANEM, University of Angers (France) 

krista.duniach@univ-angers.fr, caroline.miltgen@univ-angers.fr, gaelle.pantinsohier@univ-angers.fr 

Despite numerous innovations in the global wine industry in recent years, many 

marketers around the world have underscored limited acceptance of change by consumers. 

Previous research has even suggested that wine drinkers give more importance to tradition 

than to innovation when selecting a bottle of wine. 

Many of the innovations launched in the past decade have concerned packaging (bottle 

shape and size, labels, closures, formats). Given harsh competition and overwhelmingly 

numerous options facing consumers during the decision-making process, wine marketers 

attempt to make their products noticeable and attractive to both novice and experienced 

wine drinkers. New packaging has thus appeared in many international wine markets. 

The purpose of this paper is to examine how consumers perceive and perhaps accept this 

innovation in wine packaging by studying the case of the wine-in-tube (WIT). This innovative 

packaging, originally created to simplify the shipment of samples and to respond to growing 

demands of sustainable development, has recently appeared in various consumer markets. 

Many questions arise concerning this type of innovation: How are wines packaged in this tube 

perceived by consumers? Does this packaging influence perceived product quality? What is 

the impact on both cognitive and affective involvement in the wine purchase? Is acceptance of 

innovation greater in some consumption contexts that in others? How does the country-oforigin 

of the wine influence perceptions and acceptance of wine bottled in a tube? 

The goal of this research is to explore these different questions by conducting an on-line 

experiment on groups of young wine consumers. The respondents are first faced with a visual 

document allowing them to discover the innovative product. Country-of-origin is tested as 

some consumers are exposed to a French wine while others are exposed to an identical 

Australian wine. Consumers are then asked to evaluate the product and to share their 

perceptions and initial reactions in regards to this innovation. Involvement, consumption 

context and intent are investigated in the research protocol. Data obtained is analyzed from 

both cultural and marketing perspectives and suggests limited initial acceptance of innovation 

in wine packaging. However, some variations appear in terms of the country-of-origin of the 

wine. Insight from this research can lead marketers to a better understanding of perceptions 

and acceptance of innovation by young wine consumers and guide them in the way they 

communicate with this important segment of consumers. 


Modeling the Impact of Social Interactions 

in Wine purchasing Behavior 

Tatiana BOUZDINE–CHAMEEVA, Serge GALAM 

BEM - Bordeaux Management School, École Polytechnique and CNRS, CREA 

tatiana.chameeva@bem.edu, serge.galam@polytechnique.edu 

Our work focuses on the impact of wine expert judgments versus the word-to-mouth 

effect on the dynamics of wine purchasing behavior. We assume the phenomenon is identical 

to others problems of individual social choices. Therefore, it can be mapped onto a problem of 

opinion dynamics among agents who have to make a choice about which bottle of wine they 

are going to buy. 

To investigate the question we apply the differential version of the Galam model of 

opinion dynamics, which is developed in the framework of sociophysics. The model addresses 

the choice dynamics of a population of agents under social interactions and experts 

influences. Application to the wine market provides with a novel understanding on how social 

interactions and expert judgments affect individual wine purchasing behavior. We also study 

the impact of wine reputation in the process of choice dynamic. The implications of the 

practical implementation of these results are discussed. In particular it is found that sample 

distribution of bottles could be drastically reduced from the usual levels practiced by 

producers. 




Evaluation of the Effects of Changes 

in Regulatory Policies on Consumers Perception. 

Emilio CHIODO, Andréa FANTINI, Nicola CASOLANI 

University of Teramo 

echiodo@unite.it, afantini@unite.it, n.casolani@virgilio.it 

The paper analyses how different aspects connected with regulations can influence 

consumers’ quality perception and the value that consumers attribute to wine sector 

products. In particular, aspects concerning labelling and presentation, which, in turn, mirror 

different regulations of production methods, are considered. Consumers’ preference can 

allow enterprises to comply with more restrictive rules and sustain higher costs to 

differentiate their products and achieve higher quality. 

In the study, we consider different elements linked to regulation provisions that can be 

used by enterprises as means of differentiation in product labelling and presentation: the 

discipline of organic farming; the possibility of using additional producer organization brands; 

the indication of the name of the producer and the bottler, and other specific indications 

about production methods; the content of sulphur dioxide in wines and the rules concerning 

its indication on the labels. 

When choosing a product, consumers do not evaluate each single quality factor but the 

product as a whole, therefore the analysis has to be done with a methodology considering 

both the combination of all characteristics of the product, and the contribution of every factor 

to the creation of value for consumers. For this reason the value that consumers attribute to 

different characteristics linked to regulation aspects will be evaluated through an 

experimental economic analysis applying the method of the Conjoint analysis. 

Conjoint analysis is a marketing technique that researchers use to determinate the 

importance of some aspects of a product/service. It assumes that consumers may be able to 

evaluate a range of products/services along some key dimensions, called attributes. With the 

Conjoint analysis we construct different series of product profiles (concepts) that represent a 

possible product or service, in our case a different combination of information on wine labels 

(different scenarios). The aim of the research is to estimate the importance of each attribute 

of the plan. For categorical attributes, the utility function consists of part-worth estimate for 

each level of the attribute. The market simulation models use this information to predict how 

each respondent would choose among alternative products. 

Conjoint analysis is usually used for guiding enterprises in their marketing choices; in this 

paper we use this technique to evaluate how regulations and provisions in wine labelling and 

presentation can condition consumers quality perception. 

The experiment was realized evaluating different labels of a protected designation of 

origin “Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC” wine, with two very different groups of consumers. 

The first one was composed by inhabitants of the Abruzzi Region, the region of origin of the 

wine, in Italy, a country with strong tradition in wine consumption and familiarity with the EU 

wine regulation. The second group was composed by wine consumers of a new consumer 

country, Brazil, where consumption and production are strongly increasing. The interviewed 

are inhabitants of Florianopolis, capital of the State of Santa Catarina, in the South of the 

country. 


An Explorative Study of Wine Marketing from 2000 to 2010: 

the Status of the Research 

by Themes treated and Countries Involved 

Emmanuel CAMERON, Johanne BRUNET, Justin COHEN 

HEC Montreal, Canada, Groupe ESA France 

emmanuel.cameron-godin@hec.ca, johanne.brunet@hec.ca, j.cohen@groupe-esa.com 

The field of research on wine marketing has grown exponentially in the last 20 years. It is 

now constituted of a vast literature going as far back as the debut of the International Journal 

of Wine Marketing in 1989, which has just been re-launched under the International Journal 

of Wine Business Research in 2007. Even though the wine industry has now been covered 

from pretty much all angles, this mass of information has yet been organized to facilitate its 

classification or its understanding for new or actual practitioners and academicians alike. In 

fact, this observation has first been brought by Lockshin and Hall (2003: 1) who asked: “What 

do we know empirically about wine marketing?” 

Therefore, a meta-study is required to assess qualitatively the actual state of the wine 

marketing field, since this method of analysis is usually used to remap the cognitive status of a 

changing field of research (Zhao, 1991). In addition, indicators of scientific activity are also 

needed in order to describe quantitatively the evolution of the wine marketing subfields of 

research and their related theories (King, 1987). 

Based on 530 wine marketing articles going from 2000 to 2010 exclusively, the first 

purpose of this exploratory paper is to attempt to give an actualized overview of all the main 

themes treated in the wine marketing discipline in the form of a meta-theory. It is done by 

using a grounded theory approach to categorize the main and secondary wine marketing 

fields, subfields and their concepts. It has lead us to the construction of a “wine marketing 

mix”, which is used as a taxonomic tool to map all the themes present in the discipline as well 

as to expose the gaps left to investigate. 8 P’s (Product, Price, Place, Promotion, Packaging, 

People, Planning, Positioning) and 1 C (Channel of distribution) are found at first to be internal 

factors to the mix, whit Product, Price and Planning being the most important. What is 

interesting is the discovery of three external factors (Wine tourism, Clusters and Wine 2.0) 

which respectively represent 5%, 3% and 5%, of all the articles used and which can be 

integrated to the wine marketing mix internal factors because of their relatively new 

importance in the literature. 

Secondly, the main point of the present working paper consists of a bibliometric 

approach used to identify the dimensions and tendencies of the wine marketing publications, 

by making an inventory of the dates, the countries where the studies are originating from and 

the countries on which the studies are done. In the results, the Top 3 countries which are the 

most involved in the research (the most research coming from and the most research done 

on) are USA (147; 131), Australia (149; 131;) and France (82; 74). The evolution of the 

discipline has known a steady rise from 16 papers in 2000 to 46 in 2005, to finally end up in 

2010 with 56 papers for the year. 

Lastly, this study provides evidences of the wine marketing discipline structure and utility 

for practitioners and researchers alike. It also attempts to improve the maturity and 

coherence of this field of research to reinforce its recognition as a formal area within 

marketing or business. 





Analyse du marché des boissons alcoolisées au Vietnam 

Françoise SEYTE, Thai Quang NGUYEN 

UFR ECONOMIE Montpellier 

f-seyte@lameta.univ-montp1.fr, nguyen@lameta.univ-montp1.fr 

Le marché des boissons alcoolisées au VietNam existe depuis des siècles comme dans 

tous les pays. Mais avant les années 1990, ce marché reste local, donc très peu de produits. A 

l’époque, le produit le plus consommé est l’alcool de riz qui occupe toujours la première 

place. En deuxième position se trouve la bière qui peut prendre la première place dans les 

années à venir. Le mode de consommation change avec la nouvelle génération qui préfère les 

boissons plus douces. 

De nos jours, le marché a beaucoup plus de variétés autres que les produits locaux; nous 

trouvons une petite part de produits importés comme les vins français, australiens, 

californiens, de l’alcool fort comme le whisky, le cognac … mais qui deviennent les boissons à 

la mode avec un taux de croissance important. 

Le but de cette communication est de faire une étude approfondie du marché des 

boissons alcoolisées au VietNam afin de mieux comprendre les caractéristiques du marché 

ainsi que son évolution. Nous voulons analyser l’efficience de ce marché. Nous disposons de 

sept catégories de produits les plus consommés de 1960 à 2010: l’alcool de riz à 35°, l’alcool 

de riz LUA MOI 40°, le vin Thang Long, la bière en vrac Ha Noi, la bière en bouteille Ha Noi, la 

bière Tiger 330 ml, et la Heineken. 

L’hypothèse d’efficience des marchés sera testée à partir des modèles de marche au 

hasard ou de martingale. Nous utiliserons pour vérifier ou rejeter cette hypothèse une 

méthodologie rassemblant des techniques éprouvées issues de l’analyse des processus 

aléatoires. 





1.30 - 3.00 pm 

Session 3b 

CONSUMPTION 2 

Chaired by Eric GIRAUD-HERAUD 

Application of the Duplication of Purchase Law on Wine 

Attributes in the French Retail Wine Market 

Justin COHEN, Dorin TATARU 

Groupe ESA - Ecole Supérieure d'Agriculture d'Angers – FR p.30 

Biodynamic Wine and the Millennial Generation 

Elvis QENANI, Michael MCCULLOUGH 

California Polytechnic S U – San Luis Obispo - US p.31 

How do Values Influence the Consumer Utility for Wine and 

the other Alcoholic Beverages? A Focus on Generation 

Preferences and Consumption Situations 

Lara AGNOLI, Diego BEGALLI, Roberta CAPITELLO 

Università degli Studi di Verona – IT p.31 

Happy Drinking Habits? Analyzing Relationships between Life 

Satisfaction Indices and the Level of and Structural Changes in 

the Consumption of Alcohol in OECD Countries 

Jan BENTZEN, Valdemar SMITH 

Department of Economics, The Aarhus School of Business, 

Aarhus University – DK p.32 



Application of the Duplication of Purchase Law on Wine 

Attributes in the French Retail Wine Market 

Justin COHEN, Dorin TATARU 

Groupe ESA - Ecole Supérieure d'Agriculture d'Angers 

j.cohen@groupe-esa.com 

This research explores buying patterns in the French retail wine market, a complex and 

potentially highly fragmented product category. There is much wine marketing research 

focused on buyer behaviour emanating from ‘new world’ wine countries, specifically Australia. 

There are a host of methods that have been validated for application on wine attributes 

through the analysis of panel data. ‘New world’ wine markets are navigated by consumers 

using those attributes, making these studies attractive. In France, the ‘old word’ terroir-based 

system is primarily used to reach the consumer. There is a gap in the understanding of how 

French consumers behave over a period of time across multiple purchase occasions. The 

duplication of purchase law was utilised to describe how consumers share their purchases 

across the levels of each principal attribute. The process of extrinsic attribute exploration 

applied by Cohen (2010) using panel data in the Australian retail wine market was applied for 

the duplication of purchase method. The method of retrospective recall was applied based on 

the research of Romaniuk and Dawes (2005) and Murphy (2006). A price-based survey 

designed by Murphy (2006) was adapted into French and modified to encompass all key wine 

attributes in the French wine market as well as investigating consumer’s perceptions of 

terroir. Due to the inability of French consumers to clearly define the concept of terroir as 

demonstrated by Wilson and Jourjon (2010) and confirmed by this study, a decision was made 

to test whether French wine consumers were aware of the attributes, variety and region of 

origin, that were generally encompassed in each specific terroir name. In addition, the 

structure of the wine market based upon price as well as the role brand plays in buyer 

behaviour were of interest. 

A call centre of a University marketing research institute contacted a representative 

sample of 300 wine buyers. The data was not usable for brand buying behaviour. This was due 

to inability of respondents to effectively recall brand. This is an interesting finding in itself. The 

sample size ranged between 240-260 respondents for each attribute after the data had been 

appropriately handled and cleaned. 

This research focused on three issues for the French wine market: establishing if 

retrospective recall is an appropriate data collection technique, verifying if the duplication of 

purchase law holds and demonstrating the potential value of taking attribute-based approach 

to understanding market structure. Whilst is clear that there are limitations of retrospective 

recall and prior research in Australia has suggested the superiority of panel data, the value of 

using this data collection method as a prospecting technique is clear. The duplication of 

purchase law does hold for variety, region of origin and price. The duplication of purchase law 

does not hold for brand. The sharing of purchases among variety and region of origin provide 

valuable marketing insights. There are partitions in both of these attributes that appear to 

indicate the effect of terroir in purchase behaviour and taste preferences. This study proves 

that there is value in extending this stream of research in France. Application of additional 

methods of deciphering buyer behaviour on the current data set is planned. Obtaining panel 

data in order to work with a more significant sample size and mitigate some of the limitations 

that exist from the currently applied data collection methods is advised. 



Biodynamic Wine and the Millennial Generation 

Eivis QENANI, Michael MCCULLOUGH 

California Polytechnic State University – San Luis Obispo 

Eqenanip@calpoly.edu, mpmccull@calpoly.edu 

Biodynamic viticulture is emerging in the United States as a new niche area of 

wine production. Biodynamic farming, which evolved from organic farming, emphasizes 

creating a self-sufficient, sustainable and healthy ecosystem. Like organically grown grapes, 

biodynamic farming has a certification process conducted by the Demeter USA 

Association. While a substantial body of research exists on conventional wine 

production and consumer demand, biodynamic viticulture and wine production, 

perhaps due to its small scale and niche nature of production, has not yet received 

much attention. 

The objectives of this study are twofold, to understand the rationale of those converting 

to biodynamic production and to assess the understanding of biodynamic production in the 

marketplace and to survey the millennial generation consumers in California regarding their 

perceptions, preferences of marketing and advertising methods of eco-label wines. Findings 

from these surveys suggest a generally uninformed millennial generation that could 

potentially be targeted as new customers to the growing industry and biodynamic 

viticulturists producing biodynamic grapes and wine because of their desire for a connection 

to nature, the need to improve the quality of wine grapes and the soil used for growing. 

How do Values Influence the Consumer Utility 

for Wine and the other Alcoholic Beverages? 

A Focus on Generation Y Preferences and Consumption Situations 

Lara AGNOLI, Diego BEGALLI, Roberta CAPITELLO 

Università degli Studi di Verona 

lara.agnoli@univr.it; diego.begalli@univr.it; roberta.capitello@univr.it 

The purpose of this paper is to understand how values influence the choice behaviour for 

wine and the other alcoholic beverages in the different consumption situations, by focusing 

on young consumers. The study applied the Multinomial Logit Model (MNL) to the 

consumption situation of wine and the other alcoholic beverages and to the sociopsychological 

values obtained from the Rokeach Value Survey to determine their influence on 

utility perception. A survey has been conducted by a sample of young Italian consumers of 

alcoholic beverages. 

This research proposes an advance in the implementation of the personal identity and 

the moral concern in the utility function. They play an explicative role in the utility model, 

especially when sociality is highly involved. The results show that the choice of wine is not 

only determined by the different product attributes, but also by the context in which it is 

consumed and the competition with the other alcoholic beverages. 

The inclusion of subjective and emotional values of young consumers in the analysis could 

enlarge the managerial perspectives, by improving the approach towards the young 

generations and by helping to identify the most appropriate communication channels and 

contents. 



Happy drinking habits? 

Analyzing Relationships between Life Satisfaction Indices 

and the Level of and Structural Changes 

in the Consumption of Alcohol in OECD Countries 

Jan BENTZEN, Valdemar SMITH 

Department of Economics, The Aarhus School of Business, Aarhus University - DK 

jb@asb.dk, vs@asb.dk 

The purpose of the present analysis is to investigate for relationships between alcohol 

consumption and happiness – where the latter is represented by the so-called ‘life satisfaction 

indices’ which have been applied and used in various connections. Obviously, the increase 

during the last decades in the intake of alcohol must be assumed to have had some positive 

influences concerning utility levels or ‘happiness’ – assuming some degree of rational 

behavior. Usually, the level of alcohol consumption is defined or measured as the simple sum 

of the per capita consumption of the respective beverages, i.e. beer, wine and spirits, 

measured in liters of pure alcohol. 

An obvious problem with this definition of ‘total alcohol consumption’ is the adding 

together of the specific beverages as though these were perfect substitutes. Therefore, the 

present analysis takes an alternative point of departure with the purpose of analyzing both 

trends in levels as well as structural effects related to alcohol consumption. 

The basic idea is to let total alcohol consumption be represented by a 3-element vector 

including beer, wine and spirits and the length of this vector in Euclidian space is perceived as 

the alternative measurement of ‘total consumption’ and differences in the angles among 

these vectors for the countries involved represent structural deviations concerning the 

consumption pattern of beer, wine and spirit. 

These measures of alcohol consumption levels and drinking patterns are analyzed in 

relation to life satisfaction indices – and including data for most of the OECD countries 

covering the time span from 1961 to 2005 gives a panel data set of reasonable size (N=20, 

T=45). 

Additional to these data we include information on cultural dimensions, e.g. dummy 

variables representing religion, in the panel data set. The overall conclusions from the 

econometric analysis of these data do not seem to give much support to a hypothesis of a 

positive relationship from the alcohol consumption (level/drinking pattern) to the level of 

happiness or ‘life satisfaction’. 


t2 



3.20 - 4.40 pm 

Session 4a 

TERROIRS & TERRITORIES 

Chaired by Krista DUNIACH 

Typicitometer : Tool to Measure and Analyse the Typicity of 

Foods 

Andrea GIOMO 

QUALIS Eurofins, Torino - IT p.34 

Le vignoble d'Irouléguy : du lieu gourmand à la destination 

touristique gourmande ? 

Olivier ETCHEVERRIA 

Université d'Angers UFR ITBS-ESTHUA – FR p.35 

The role of sectorial strategies in the case of French PDO wines: 

Successes and failures 

Jean-Guillaume DITTER, Christian BARRERE, Joelle BROUARD 

OMI, Université de Reims, Groupe ESC Dijon Bourgogne – FR p.36 


Typicitometer: 

Tool to Measure and Analyse the Typicity of Foods 

Andrea GIOMO 

QUALIS Eurofins, Torino (Italy) 

sensory@andreagiomo.com 

Typical foods or beverages are the outcome of a historic process of collective and 

localized contextual accumulation of knowledge. This is founded on a combination of specific 

territorial resources, both physical and anthropogenic, that gives rise to a strong bond, unique 

with the territory of origin. 

The factors of typicality are: 

specific local resources used in the production process; 

the history and the productive tradition; 

the presence of shared knowledge on the products; 

the link with the geographical environment; 

The territory is as something of active and in continuous transformation. The typicality 

may not be a pre-requisite system but It is a result of the processes operating in a specific 

place within the territory. Typicality is a dynamic concept link to the variation of the territory, 

the variation of knowledge and mainly: variations in humans perceptions maps. Nowadays 

different market operators need to define, to quantify and to control the levels of typicality of 

foods and beverages products (i.e. thinks to private labels management). Typicitometer is an 

hypothesis of tool of methods to measure, through standardized methodology (ISO 13299:03), 

the degree of satisfaction of the requirements of "typicality" of food products. 

Also it can highlight the specific factors linked both the typicality legally recognized 

(disciplinary of production), and to the perceived "typicality" by the consumer, which not 

always coincide, for purposes purely of marketing actions. 

1 

L'appellation Sauternes : Une appellation sans territoire ? 


UMR 5185 ADES-Université de Bordeaux-CNRS – FR p.38 

0.75 

0.5 

0.25 

Sample D 

Compliance with type 

Sample F 

Authenticity/Naturaln. 

Sample B 

Sample E 

Quality of Color judgem. 

0 

Direction of Typicality 

-0.25 

-0.5 

Flavour persistence 

Astringent Technical judge 

Caloric feeling 

Flowery 

Sour 

Sample C 

Sample A 

Bitter 

Finesse 

-0.75 

Fruity 

Woody 

Olfactory intensity 

-1 

Vanille intensity 

-1 -0.75 -0.5 -0.25 0 0.25 0.5 0.75 1 

t1 

In this pls-map it is possible to highlight the direction of “typicality” of the sensory 

descriptors (blue) of the well known DOP/DOCG wine “Chianti Classico” by means the 

typicality judgement (green), and the projection of the analyzed samples (red). 




Le vignoble d’Irouléguy : 

du lieu gourmand à la destination touristique gourmande? 

Olivier ETCHEVERRIA 

UFR ITBS-ESTHUA - Université d'Angers 

olivier.etcheverria@univ-angers.fr 

Le vin d’Irouléguy a récemment connu une évolution qualitative notable. Elle s’explique 

par des facteurs internes qui sont à mettre en relation avec la sortie de la coopération d’une 

dizaine de jeunes viticulteurs qui ont fait le choix d’une production à objectif qualitatif. 

Elle s’explique aussi par des facteurs extérieurs, à l’échelle du Pays Basque, régionale 

voire nationale. Le premier concerne le changement d’image du vin et, plus largement, du 

vignoble, largement diffusée par les acteurs endogènes, les viticulteurs au premier chef, mais 

aussi des acteurs exogènes, notamment ceux du monde du goût et les touristes (au premier 

rang desquels les oenotouristes). Le second concerne le changement du discours sur le vin. En 

effet, une nouvelle «gastronomie» du vin d’Irouléguy, nourrie par les acteurs de la cuisine, du 

restaurant (nouveaux accords mets et vins) et de la dégustation (guides gastronomiques, 

journalistes spécialisés…), émerge et se diffuse aussi bien au Pays Basque qu’au-delà, 

notamment à Paris. Ainsi, un discours gastronomique à deux pôles se construit 

progressivement. 

Le vignoble d’Irouléguy est donc récemment devenu un lieu «gourmand». 

Dans quelles mesures peut-il devenir une destination touristique gourmande ? 

A quelles conditions des formes oenotouristiques peuvent-elles émerger? 


The role of sectorial strategies 

in the case of French PDO wines: 

Successes and failures 

Jean-Guillaume DITTER, Christian BARRERE, Joëlle BROUARD 

OMI, Université de Reims, Groupe ESC Dijon Bourgogne 

jean-guillaume.ditter@escdijon.eu, christian.barrere@gmail.com, 

joëlle.brouard@escdijon.eu 

Today wine markets are global. Nevertheless wines are produced on territories, with 

varying degrees of relation to them. It is usual to distinguish an “old world” terroir model, 

based on protected designations of origin (PDO) and a new world models, building on wine 

varieties, brands and clusters. 

Each model is supposed to draw from specific assets and produce information and 

reputation that allow consumers to decide and markets to work. Nevertheless this binary 

distinction has to be questioned. Clusters and, mainly, terroirs are not homogeneous. On the 

one hand some terroirs are incredibly successful (obviously the main case is the Champagne 

one), on the other hand some others lead to poor results (who, today, knows the Blanquette 

de Limoux which is the oldest sparkling wine in the world?). 

This heterogeneity does not primarily derives from natural but social conditions, among 

which the strategies of the actors. Moreover, at the beginning of their development, some 

terroir wines were facing similar conditions but their development paths have been very 

diverse. So, comparative history allows us to understand the conditions of successes and 

failures and to see that, despite the legal protection ensured by the PDO, the typicality of a 

vineyard is not a sufficient condition of success. 

For that the paper addresses the conditions of competitiveness of terroirs related to their 

"differentiated quality". An evolutionary model that considers wine markets as strategic 

games between mutually dependant players the issue of which gives a well-defined level of 

quality constitutes our theoretical starting point. The working of the play leads to diverse 

dynamics and to specific path development dependences. Then we can observe how the 

institutional conditions (number and heterogeneity of the producers, types of associations, 

relations to the political area and so on) act upon types of management and governance and, 

finally, define the conditions of the strategic choices and determine the path development. On 

this basis we compare the success story of the Champagne wine with the failures of other 

vineyards (Clairette de Die, Blanquette de Limoux, Cahors). The comparative history of these 

vineyards shows that competitiveness does not only result from natural conditions. In some 

circumstances the behaviours of the economic actors and, peculiarly, their ability to define 

wining strategies are decisive. In the case of Champagne the Maisons played a decisive role. 

Their power allowed them to anticipate and to define a long-term policy; to use some 

situations (the Big crisis of the Champagne) to organize a general agreement on development 

path; and to enforce it. When the expansion path took effect it gave profits to the whole 

sector and, so, became self-enforcing. The possibility of collective action also depended on 

distribution conditions. The necessary consensus derived from the belief that the common 

strategy favoured almost all the actors: to convince vine growers to accept the high quality 

strategy the Maisons had to accept a new distribution of earnings by paying more the grape 

and by increasing the price of grape when the price of bottles increased. 




On the contrary, in the other vineyards, the absence of leaders institutionalized 

opportunistic behaviours that created a lock-in situation. The history of French vineyards also 

shows the advantage of the leader position on the followers’ ones. In spite of voluntarist 

policies in the recent period, the emergence of a new image able to modify the consumers’ 

choices is very difficult. It obviously is the case for sparkling wines when the iconic image of 

Champagne stands up: the recognition by consumers of the typicality of the Champagne wine 

and the classification of this typicality as a superiority over other wines tends to rigidify the 

competition among lots of more or less typical wines. Finally, the last but not the least 

teaching given by the comparative history of terroir wines is that the most important within 

the specific resources is not generally the quality of natural ones but the quality of human and 

social ones, that is to say the human and social creativity. 


L’appellation Sauternes : une appellation sans territoire? 


UMR 5185 ADES-Université de Bordeaux-CNRS 

n-corade@enitab.fr 

Le contexte 

Localisée sur 5 communes de la rive Gauche de la Garonne (Barsac, Bommes, Preignac, 

Sauternes, Fargues) l’appellation Sauternes est l’une des appellations les plus réputées du 

Bordelais en raison, notamment, de la typicité de ses vins liquoreux. 27 grands crus du 

classement de 1855 y sont localisés et l’appellation compte aujourd’hui environ 220 

viticulteurs. En 2009 les surfaces déclarées s’élèvent à 1 767 ha pour une production de 

33 954 hl. 

Epargnée par la crise viticole à ses débuts (fin des années 90), elle connait aujourd’hui de 

nombreux problèmes dont celui de la valorisation de ses produits mais aussi des problèmes 

de vente. 

De plus de nombreux changements territoriaux sont en cours dont on ne connaît pas très 

bien la portée aujourd’hui : 

La pression foncière y est relativement importante, (or le prix de foncier agricole est bien 

plus faible encore que celui de terrain à bâtir) et les rapports avec les élus ne laissent pas 

présager un revirement 

Le nombre de domaines se réduit 

L’appellation est marquée par des rachats par de grands groupes de certains domaines 

(bien que 50% des grands crus soient encore détenus par des groupes familiaux). Ces rachats 

entraînent des changements qu’il faut comprendre et analyser 

Certains viticulteurs, malgré une appellation qui se tient face à la crise, connaissent des 

difficultés 

Les vins de l’appellation sont, à ce point, typiques qu’ils se boivent peu…. 

Au final un certain nombre d’indicateurs laisse supposer que des difficultés existent dès 

aujourd’hui et qu’elles sont en voie de se renforcer en en entraînant peut-être d’autres. 

La problématique 

Le travail s’intéresse aux fondements territoriaux qui semblent être au cœur des 

difficultés actuelles de cette appellation pourtant renommée. Nous montrerons qu’il y a bien 

dans les problèmes de l’appellation des problèmes territoriaux de fond conduisant à devoir 

s’interroger sur son fonctionnement. 

La méthode 

Le travail repose sur une analyse de données économiques et structurelles ainsi que sur 

des interviews réalisés auprès d’acteurs différents (Une quarantaine de viticulteurs, les élus 

des 5 communes de l’appellation, le président de l’ODG Sauternes Barsac, les 2 principaux 

négociants de cette appellation, 2 grands crus, ….) 





3.20 - 4.40 pm 

Session 4b 

GRAPE & WINE GROWER 

Chaired by Michel DARMON 

New Regional Associations of Winemakers in the Cech 

Republic 

Martin PROKES 

Faculty Business & Economics, Mendel University Brno- CZ p.40 

Understanding the Performance of Sardinian Wineries 

with a Post-DEA Double Bootstrap 

Marco VANNINI, Maria Giovanna BRANDANO, Claudio DETOTTO 

University of Sassari – IT p.41 

A Preliminary Analysis of Investing in Wine Grape Production: 

Evidence from the State of Connecticut, USA 

Jeremy JELLIFFE, Boris BRAVO-URETA 

The University of Connecticut – US p.42 

Monetary Equilibrium and Mutuality Analysis of Italian Wine 

Cooperatives 

Victoria BRUNO BOSSIO, Sandro SILLANI 

Dept Food Sciences, Università degli Studi di Udine – IT p.43 

Wine environment in the Czech Republic 

Sylvie GURSKA, Helena CHLADKOVA, Pavel TOMSIK 

Mendel University in Brno – CZ p.44 


Formation of Regional Associations of Wine Producers 

in the Czech Republic 

Martin PROKEŠ 

Faculty of Business and Economics, Mendel University in Brno, Czech Republic 

martin.prokes.umo@mendelu.cz 

This paper describes the main reasons for the formation of new regional association of 

wineries, based on a different origin for wines in the wine region of Moravia in the southeast part of 

the Czech Republic. 

This research aim is to create a plan for new development of such associations on the basis of 

results of localization factors. There coefficient of localization is used for identification of cluster, 

macro-analytical tool recommends by Porter (1994). New method is to use a concentration factor, 

which is concentration of potential vineyards for certification in the associations and compared with 

concentration of vineyards in the region. Results are compared with already operating on 

associations for the appellation in Austria DAC. 

Viticulture and wine industry in the Czech Republic has undergone over the last twenty years 

extensive reform and has experienced a significant shift from the quantitative orientation of 

production towards high quality. Cooperation winemakers and wineries eminently contributed to 

positive changes and the overall transformation. They were traced changes in consumer 

preferences in the Czech wine market. Consumers are placing more emphasis on the selection of 

wine on its descent from a particular area, growing community and the individual grower. The 

dynamic development of the wine category, major changes in market and consumer demand are 

the main causes for the formation of associations of small and medium-sized wineries. 

There is new system for appellations wine “Vína Originální Certifikace – VOC”, which means 

wines of original certification. The paper specifically introduces two new associations for appellation 

system: VOC Znojmo and VOC Modré Hory. These alliances are described in the context of the 

establishment, operation, development and expansion, respectively the possibility of involvement 

of additional organizations suppliers and research institutions. There are seven regional associations 

with the DAC title, DAC means “Districtus Austrae Controllatus” and it is appelation system for 

certification wine in certain wine-producing regions in Austria. 

For all researched regional associations were calculated localization factors and concentration 

factors of vineyards. When comparing these results, coefficients were observed in approximately 

similar values for both the DAC associations in Austria, as well as associations of VOCs in the Czech 

Republic. Based on the experience of newly emerging VOC system of appellations was setting up a 

plan of formation association with the proposed methodological approach. 

Open cooperation between associations VOC appellation and other entities involving 

suppliers, customers, research institutions and universities has the possibility of creating an 

institutionalized wine cluster. The observed association of the DAC, which was founded as the first, 

already used by some elements of cooperation specific to cluster together in the form, such as joint 

marketing, research and education. The forming new associations working together on a common 

VOC presentation and marketing, and expect further expansion of joint activities, such as 

education, research, and joint sales activities. 

Some practical experience of the new members of wine associations mentioned in this paper 

may find applications in other wine regions. 




Understanding the Performance of Sardinian Wineries 

with a Post-DEA Double Bootstrap 

Marco. VANNINI, Maria giovanna. BRANDANO, Claudio DETOTTO 

University of Sassari 

vannini@uniss.it, mgbrandano@uniss.it, cdetotto@uniss.it 

The island of Sardinia, internationally known mainly for its shepherds and cheeses, now 

boasts dozens of wines among the pride of its agricultural sector. Although the production of 

wine dates back at least to Phoenician times, a modern wine industry started to develop much 

later, toward the end of the 19th century, and reached its quantitative peak in the early 

1980’s. Since then, the quantity of land devoted to wine-growing has been shrinking along 

with the total harvest and wine production. Not surprisingly, the quality of wine has 

significantly improved and in just about three decades Sardinian wines have gained an 

enviable reputation for quality both at home and abroad. 

What explain this performance? To address this questions, we first measure the 

performance of a large subset of Sardinian wine producing companies observed over the 

period 2004-2008. As a central indicator of performance we use the technical efficiency score 

from a DEA application, based on straightforward inputs and outputs, concerning a sample of 

thirty-nine DMUs (roughly 60% the total wineries). Subsequently, we regress the DEA scores 

on a set of covariates that are expected to impact the efficiency level of Sardinian wineries. 

As is well known DEA allows to measure the efficiency of a given DMU comparing it to the 

estimated production frontier. Unlike the parametric approach, that requires an a priori 

specification of the functional form of the production function and its disturbance term, DEA 

is a flexible technique that, in a multiple input-output framework, focuses on a virtual singleinput-output 

structure. In the first step of our study we measure technical efficiency using 

three inputs [Labour cost (L), physical capital (K) and land (T)] and two outputs [sales revenue 

(S) and earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT)]. 

In the second step, we investigate which factors affect the measured technical efficiency. 

The estimated DEA scores 

ˆ θ it become the dependent variables of a pooled truncated 

maximum likelihood regression with the following specification 

ˆ θ it 

= DCOOP it 

β 1 

+ DGUIDE it 

β 2 

+ KM it 

β 3 

+ VISIB it 

β 4 

+ DY 04 t 

β 5 

+ DY 05 t 

β 6 

+ DY 06 t 

β 7 

+ DY 07 t 

β 8 

+ ε it 

Where ˆ θ it 

= z it 

β +ε it 

≥1 

z it is a vector of variables assumed to affect the choice and use of y and x and the level of 

technology employed, β is a vector of parameters and ε it is a continuous iid random variable 

distributed N(0,σ ε 2 ) with left-truncation at 1 − z it 

β for each i. 

DCOOP it and DGUIDE it are two dummy variables equal to one when a firm has a co-op 

ownership structure and features in the previous year wine tasting guides Associazione 

Italiana Sommelier (AIS) and Gambero Rosso (GR). 

KM it measure the distance of a winery from the closest airports (the gate of incoming 

tourism) 

VISIB it represents the number of Google results associated to each winery: a proxy of the 

market visibility of the firms. 


Table 3 – Descripive statistics 

Code Step Min Median Mean Max S.D. 

DCOOP PostD 0.0 1.0 0.52 1.0 0.50 

DGUIDE PostD 0.0 0.0 0.37 1.0 0.48 

KM PostD 4.3 38.3 51.1 129.0 38.5 

VISIB PostD 0.0 7,280 28,530 271,000 52,994.7 

By using Algorithm #2 of Simar and Wilson (2007), a double bootstrap procedure is employed. 

The results of the analysis are shown in table 4. We observe that DCOOP and DGUIDE are 

highly significant. On average, the cooperative wineries are more technically efficient (-7.297) 

than private wineries. Tasting scores by AIS and GR increases the efficiency of the wineries (- 

4.910). Finally, KM and VISIB have the expected sign, but the coefficients are not significant. 

Table 4 – Double bootstrap regression 

Number of iteration = 2,500 

Variables 

β 

DCOOP -7.297*** 

DGUIDE -4.910*** 

KM 1.402 

VISIB -0.569 

Constant 6.715*** 

A Preliminary Analysis of Investing in Wine Grape Production: 

Evidence from the State of Connecticut,USA 

Jeremy JELLIFFE, Boris BRAVO-URETA 

University of Connecticut 

jeremy.jelliffe@huskymail.uconn.edu, Boris.BravoUreta@uconn.edu 

The Connecticut Wine and Vineyard industry has grown at a steady 3.9% per year over 

the past decade (ATTB, 2009). Programs to support and foster further growth of the industry 

and CT farm vineyard culture include the Department of Agriculture’s CT Wine Trail and the 

annual CT Wine festival (DOAG, 2010). Vineyard development is also supported by farmland 

preservation groups since grape growing tends to secure tracts of farmland for long periods of 

time. Programs like FarmLink help prospective vineyard owners find affordable land to farm. 

With high state property values the need for affordable land is a driving factor for vineyard 

establishment. The Net Present Value (NPV) and Internal Rate of Return (IRR) are calculated 

for both vinifera and French American hybrid varieties over a 20 year period. Sensitivity 

analysis for NPV is done by varying the baseline discount rate. Preliminary IRRs for vinifera and 

hybrid varieties over the 20 year period are estimated at 13% and 8%, respectively. Thus, the 

investment analysis suggests that growing vinifera varieties of wine grapes in Connecticut is 

more profitable than growing French American hybrid varieties. 




Monetary Equilibrium and Mutuality 

Analysis of Italian Wine Cooperatives. 

Victoria BRUNO BOSSIO, Sandro SILLANI 

Department of Food Sciences, Università degli Studi di Udine 

victoria.brunobossio@uniud.it; sandro.sillani@uniud.it 

The organization into cooperatives especially in the agricultural sector have always been of great 

importance for protection and benefit of small rural realities that alone wouldn’t be able to survive 

and compete on the market.. 

In Italy, according to the existing legislation, to favour the development of cooperative initiatives, 

there are specific tax and law facilitations, in relation with the fact that cooperatives shouldn’t have as 

their main aim to maximise profit but to favour members and indirectly bring benefits to the entire 

community (Romano, 1991).Cooperation is present in many business sectors; in the agriculture sector, 

cooperatives accomplish tasks such as picking, processing, transformation and selling of agricultural 

goods brought-in by producers-members. Economically speaking, they have many differences 

compared to joint-stock companies, both regarding structural aspects and objectives. They transform 

goods produced by members that are remunerated depending on product’s quantity and quality. 

According to the italian law (D.lgs.n.6/2003), there are two types of mutuality: prevalent when the 

cooperative firms stipulates contracts mostly with members (>50% of the total goods, in quantity or 

value, come from members) and the business is carried out to achieve benefits for members 

exclusively; non prevalent when the business is open also to others rather than only members (



Figure 1 Prediction of the development of production and consumption to 2015 (million liters) 

Source: Czech Statistical Office, own work 

The correlation coefficient will be used to determine the relationship between supply and 

consumption, supply and final wine stock, supply and import, consumption and final wine 

stock. 

n∑ xi 

yi 

− ∑ xi 

∑ yi 

∑ ( xi 

− x)( 

yi 

− y) 

r = 

= 

2 

2 2 

2 

2 

2 

n xi 

− ( xi 

) n yi 

− ( yi 

) ( xi 

−x) 

( yi 

− y) 

[ ∑ ∑ ][ ∑ ∑ ] ∑ ∑ 

Between total wine supply and consumption the correlation coefficient is r = 0,88, 

between total supply and the amount of the wine stock r = 0,94 and also between total 

supply and import reached the coefficient high number r = 0,80. That’s why it is possible to 

talk about high dependence among monitored values. The relationship between wine 

consumption and total wine stock can be indicated as medium because r = 0,68. 

According to realized information it is possible to say that the wine industry is a positively 

developing market which inheres in the stage of growth in the life cycle. We can see it from 

the development of increasing domestic wine production and from the increasing amount of 

wine imported in context of increasing annual consumption. There is a positive fact in the 

increasing wine demand and consumption – producers focuses on quality which documents 

significant awarding of our wines in several world expositions and competition, and on 

production of specialties typical for domestic conditions like e.g. Saint Martin’s Wine, Ice 

wines, the stum. The quality of production is awarded also by consumers which according to 

several surveys prefer domestic wines. Managerial proceedings leading to increasing quality of 

wine production lead to increasing consumption. So the Czech Republic contributes to use of 

EU overproduction. 





5.00 - 6.10 pm 

Session 5 

INFORMATION & EDUCATION 

Chaired by Dominique JONCHERAY 

Wine Education in the Wine Country 

Gildas L’HOSTIS 

Ecole Supérieure de Commerce, Dijon – FR p.48 

Jonathan Nossiter contre Robert Parker. Tradicion vs Alta 

expression 

Joël BRÉMOND 

Université de Nantes, LEA & CRINI – FR p.49 

The teaching of the wine in catering school: a plural approach 

Kilien STENGEL 

Université François Rabelais de Tours, IEHCA – FR p.50 

Information, manga et cartes de similitudes 

Angela SUTAN, Joëlle BROUARD, Emilie GINON, Damien WILSON 

IMV, LESSAC, Burgundy School of Business, Dijon – FR p.51 


Wine Education in the Wine Country 

Gildas L’HOSTIS 

Ecole Supérieure de Commerce. Dijon 

Gildas.lhostis@wines-solutions.com 

France history is intimately related to wine history and as a wine producing country, wine 

education has always played a strong social part. Being a “connoisseur” has often been a way 

to express a strong social position and mastering a complex wine semantic a way to prove 

that you are knowledgeable, wine tasting belonging more to art than science. 

Nowadays wine is at the core of an economic issue and it is crucial to demystify this 

beverage and help the consumers to better understand it. Giving readable clues for wine 

drinkers can avoid a social risk for the customers while ordering wine. Therefore, a good wine 

education background is an important step for vocational students to reach the clients’ 

aspirations 

In France the public education system relies on a strong curriculum also giving standards 

for wine education, offering a lot of different streams for vocational education. 

The main goal of this study is to compare the French wine’s educational system with 

some other countries around the world (US, UK, Switzerland and Australia). This research also 

tries to find out whether it is possible or not to derive some positive aspects from these others 

countries and transpose them into the French system scheme. 

A quick summary of the different levels of vocational diplomas in France including wine 

education in their program will be done. Are these programs in France relevant and reflective 

of the employers and consumers’ needs? 

Regarding the other countries, do they follow the same qualification framework? What 

can we learn from their wine education system? 

The study is mainly conducted through quantitative research(es): communication with 

professionals linked to the wine education sector in France and foreign countries; literature 

search(es); web data. 

International Digital Wine Writing : What Is Really at Stakes 

for the Wine Industry ? 

Joëlle BROUARD, Evelyne RESNICK 

Institut Management Vin Groupe Esc Dijon Bourgogne – FR p.52 




Jonathan Nossiter contre Robert Parker. 

Tradición vs Alta expresión. 

Joël BRÉMOND 

Université de Nantes, LEA– Civilisation de l’Espagne contemporaine & CRINI 

bremond.joel@wanadoo.fr 

La Denominación de Origen Calificada Rioja est la première zone espagnole pour la 

production de vins fins, avec 40 % du total espagnol des ventes de vin d’appellations d’origine 

contrôlée, tant à l’exportation que sur le marché domestique. 

Le contexte national est contrasté : l’Espagne reste le premier pays au monde pour la 

surface plantée de vignes, et le deuxième ou le troisième (selon les années) pour la production 

de vin, par contre, la consommation intérieure y est relativement faible (17 litres par an et par 

habitant), la plus faible en tout cas parmi les grands pays producteurs, et en baisse constante. 

La filière vitivinicole espagnole en général se tourne donc logiquement vers les marchés 

d’exportation pour y trouver des débouchés conséquents et durables. 

C’est également le cas des grandes sociétés qui dominent le secteur en Rioja, dont plus 

d’un tiers des ventes en volume, et davantage en valeur, est commercialisé hors des frontières 

espagnoles. 

Dans le même temps, fleurissent et se multiplient en Rioja des vins qualifiés 

explicitement de « modernes », qui correspondent globalement aux goûts dominants sur les 

marchés du nouveau monde et, il faut bien le dire, aux critères et aux préférences du critique 

états-unien Robert M. Parker. 

Après une phase où les bodegas ont été catégorisées en « modernes » ou « 

traditionnelles », on assiste, de la part de la majorité des grands opérateurs, à des adaptations 

stratégiques les menant à produire de front à la fois des vins modernes et des vins 

traditionnels. L’objectif est de multiplier les cibles et de placer ces vins sur des créneaux plus 

variés et par conséquent d’accroître leurs ventes. 

Cela dit, il semble clair que la « tendance Parker » domine largement dans l’offre actuelle 

des vins de Rioja, y compris sur le marché espagnol. 

Nous tenterons de montrer quelle est l’influence de Parker, mais aussi de ses émules 

locaux, José Peñín, Víctor de la Serna (El Mundo)…, sur les vins proposés à la vente et sur les 

réactions de la clientèle. 


The teaching of the wine in catering school: a plural approach 

Kilien STENGEL 

Université François Rabelais de Tours, IEHCA 

kilien.stengel@univ-tours.fr 

There is a lot of tools and methodologies of teaching of the wine, based or not on a main 

table, and multiple books explain what the French society wishes to pass on of its wine 

heritage. 

Nevertheless, the question today could be: how do we teach the wine? Considering the 

globalization, the economic policies, considering regional valuation, considering the french 

paradox and considering the educational politics, what future do we offer to this cultural 

capital, knowing that the food practices change status in every generation? And what is the 

wine teaching in the country neighbors? 

We know that technical vocabularies, intended for the commercial argumentations, can 

indicated wine products. We know that cities or regions try to communicate an identity with 

the aid of the wine. 

But how spread the approaches varied by some wine with the teenagers of catering 

schools, students of universities, and adults of the workshops of tastings, so that these actors 

know how to sell it? 

So many questions which indicate a narrow report enter the will to preserve and that to 

pass on which passes by the custom of the multidisciplinary. 




Information, manga et cartes de similitudes 

Angela SUTAN, Joëlle BROUARD, Emilie GINON, Damien WILSON 

IMV, LESSAC, Burgundy School of Business, Dijon 

angela.sutan@escdijon.eu, joelle.brouard@escdijon.eu, emilie.ginon@escdijon.eu, 

damien.wilson@escdijon.eu 

Si nous assumons l'existence d'individus dotés de capacités cognitives différentes, dans 

des situationsdans lesquelles les fondamentaux économiques sont publiquement révélés, de 

manière à ce que l'information sur l'environnement est complète, parfaite et symétrique, 

chaque individu est susceptible de traiter l'information qu'il reçoit de manière différente, en 

fonction de sa capacité de raisonnement. En particulier, les capacités de raisonnement 

différentes des individus sont associées à leurs coûts (cognitifs) de traitement de l'information 

; chacun réalise donc un arbitrage avantages-coûts du raisonnement, qui détermine les limites 

des efforts cognitifs mis en œuvre. 

Ce papier fait état de deux expériences connexes sur les différences entre information 

disponible et information utile et la manière de l'assimiler dans le cas du vin par des 

consommateurs jeunes. Nous faisons l'hypothèse que le processus de construction des 

inférences qui constituent le raisonnement est caractérisé par une sensibilité élevée au 

contexte : une même information disponible peut conduire à des assimilations très différentes 

dans des contextes différents. L'explication est qu'à travers le raisonnement un individu ne 

traite pas l'information disponible, mais seulement l'information la plus relevante (Sperber 

and Wilson, 1995) dans la situation en question, et, de manière à ce que cette information 

devienne utile, il la contextualise de manière à maximiser sa relevance. 

Ainsi, nous avons mis en place deux expériences de terrain dans lesquelles : nous avons 

mesuré l'impact de la transmission de l'information à travers les mangas ("Les goutes de 

Dieu") par rapport à une formation académique auprès d'un public jeune, nous avons 

demandé à ce public de nous construire des cartes de similitudes des vins. 


International Digital Wine Writing: 

What Is Really at Stakes for the Wine Industry? 

Joelle BROUARD, Evelyne RESNICK 

Institut du Management du Vin Groupe Esc Dijon Bourgogne 

joelle.Brouard@escdijon.eu, evelyne@resmo.net 

International Digital Wine Writing started around 1995-1996 when journalists and wine 

lovers launched discussion forums open to anybody who wanted to share their tastes, 

opinions or knowledge. Those forums were the first platforms where consumers and 

professionals from all over the world could meet virtually before – sometimes- meeting “off 

line”. Technology evolving and helping, at the turn of the new century, blogs became part of 

the digital landscape. At a time when top-down messaging had already become obsolete for 

wine brands, peer-to-peer conversations and consumer-to-blogger conversations took 

precedence over the traditional monolog of the wine experts and “gurus”. Nowadays, even 

Facebook and Twitter are part of the digital wine writing. 

Forums, blogs, Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, YouTube and other social networks and 

digital tools are now part of the digital landscape and are challenging the wine industry 

worldwide. What is really at stakes in 2011 and for the next 5 years for the wine industry? 

To answer this question, the mastère de Vins de Dijon and its counterpart Wine Master 

program launched a study of digital wine writing in the US and in Asia (China, Korea and India). 

Why those countries? An overview of the context of the digital world in the US and in Asia 

showed the importance of researching the characteristics and main features of a mature 

market (the US) vs. a few emerging markets in Asia, mostly China, Korea and India. 

Our research focuses on wine blogs and digital writing through a corpus of about 450 

blogs selected and evaluated by our 45 students from various European countries, the US, 

Australia, Korea, mainland China and India. We worked very closely with our students who are 

important contributors to the project. 

Our methodology is based on two steps: 

Evaluating several critical points: design, topics, links to social media, monetization, 

audience, influence, among others ; 

Collecting information on a corpus of American and Asian blogs. 

The evaluation chart will be presented in detail since it will lead to a classification of the 

blogs to determine which ones are the most affluent and strategic to the wine industry. 

Our research is still a work in progress as we will continue the work on several years. Its 

objectives are to give a good image of digital writing through blogs as of now in 2011 in the 

wine industry, to see over the next five years how it is evolving in mature and emerging 

markets and to give recognition to a new form of communications helping the wine industry 

to reach new markets through new influencers and trendsetters. 

As far as today, we have a corpus of about 300 American blogs and 100 Asian blogs. This 

study will allow us to evaluate which digital wine writers are the most affluent and important 

as well as how they can affect the international wine industry. 




Friday May 20th 2011 

8.20 - 9.40 am 

Session 6 

ŒNOTOURISM 

Chaired by Stefania CHIRONI 

Tourism Marketing Strategies Between Wineries Based on Size 

or Location 

Janis R. DONOVAN, Nelson A. BARBER 

University of New Hampshire – US p.54 

Wine Festivals Tourism: How important is Recycling to 

Attendees? 

Nelson BARBER 

University of New Hampshire – US p.54 

L’analyse des profils d'œnotouristes bordelais et des nouvelles 

pratiques de l’œnotourisme mise en place en région. 

Tatiana BOUZDINE – CHAMEEVA 

BEM - Bordeaux Management School – FR p.55 

A Literary Ride through Bacchus’ Landscapes 

Ana LAVRADOR , Ana Cristina TAVARES 

Faculdade de Ciências Sociais e Humanas – Universidade Nova 

de Lisboa, IELT - PT p.56 



Tourism Marketing Strategies 

Between Wineries Based on Size or Location 

Janis R. DONOVAN, Nelson A. BARBER 

University of New Hampshir 

janisdonovan@hotmail.com, nelsonbarber@msn.com 

While the number of United States wineries has doubled and wine production tripled, 

only three states represent the majority of wineries and wine production. Yet, small wineries 

must contend with similar production issues that larger wineries face: cultivation of grapes, 

fermentation of juice and finally bottling of the product. 

By comparison small wineries face an even tougher challenge - attracting consumers’ 

attention to their products, much of which must be sold directly to consumers at the winery. 

These cellar door sales account for substantial dollar and case volume and are particularly 

lucrative. 

This study examined the relationship in off-site and on-site marketing strategies based 

upon winery size and location. The results indicated differences in tourism marketing 

strategies particularly with wine education at rural wineries and food/wine pairing techniques 

at larger wineries. 

Wine Festivals Tourism: How important is Recycling to Attendees? 

Nelson BARBER 

University of New Hampshire 

nelsonbarber@msn.com 

In this consumer driven economy tourism marketers often seek effective ways to market 

destinations. Sustainable development and marketing are applied across the tourism 

spectrum, yet a need exists to make them relevant to specific forms of tourism, such as 

festival tourism. Festivals may be more inclusive of all groups in a community, offering the 

most effective setting in which to teach certain ideas. Thus, festivals can be great educational 

settings to understand environmental behavior and attitudes and are likely to attract people 

who might not take part in a seminar or workshop. 

The very nature of the wine industry lends itself to a marriage with tourism. Wine is a 

beverage that is associated with relaxation, communing with others, complementary to food 

consumption, learning about new things, and hospitality. Wine tourism is a form of specialinterest 

tourism and like different forms of tourism; wine tourism is also gaining significant 

momentum all over the world. Several countries are promoting wine tourism and are also 

organizing wine festivals for the wine lovers. Wine tourism may comprise visits to different 

wine festivals, vineyards, wineries and restaurants that offer distinct vintages. 

The purpose of this study was to establish a valid and reliable consumer assessment tool 

regarding recycling behaviors and attitudes when visiting a wine festival tourist destination 

and to assess and segment the respondents by gender and age using their statements about 

their personal and social norms, awareness of consequences, environmental and attitudes 

and behavioral intentions. The goal is to suggest to wine festival managers and promoters that 

environmental tourism, behaviors and attitudes, such as recycling, could improve festival 

attendance, increase revenue, and build a better connection to the local community. 



L’analyse des profils d'œnotouristes bordelais 

et des nouvelles pratiques de l’œnotourisme 

mise en place en région. 

Tatiana BOUZDINE - CHAMEEVA 

BEM - Bordeaux Management School 

tatiana.chameeva@bem.edu 

L’œnotourisme, autrement dit, tourisme vitivinicole, correspond à la découverte par des 

consommateurs de prestations touristiques et de vins régionaux. Il ne s’agit pas uniquement 

de la visite de caves mais également de la découverte des routes de vins, de stages 

d’œnologie ou encore de la visite de musées portant sur le vin. 

A cela il faut ajoute la "mise en tourisme" des sites et patrimoines liés au vin et à sa 

production. Cette nouvelle forme de tourisme est apparue dans l’optique de répondre à 

l’attente des touristes voulant allier découverte et art de vivre. Au niveau européen, 

l’œnotourisme est considéré comme un secteur en devenir car il répond à une nouvelle 

demande de la part de la population - visiter des régions avec une activité spécifique où l’on 

peut trouver des produits de qualité ainsi que découvrir d’une nouvelle culture, se détendre 

et participer à des activités culturelles variées et innovantes en lien avec ces lieux. 

Une étude internationale sur le tourisme vitivinicole a été lancée il y a quelques années 

par des collègues allemands (Orth et al, 2005). 129 questions diverses et variées élaborées ont 

permis de mieux comprendre le profil d'œnotouriste en Allemagne, et en Australie, en 

Autriche et en Espagne, aux Etats Unis et en Italie; en Suisse et en région bourguignon. Dans 

cette étude nous exposerons les nouvelles pratiques d'œnotourisme mises en place dans le 

bordelais ainsi que nous présenterons le profil d'oenotouriste bordelais en se basant sur 

l'analyse de 450 questionnaires. 


A Literary Ride through Bacchus’ Landscapes 

Ana LAVRADOR, Ana Cristina TAVARES 

Faculdade de Ciências Sociais e Humanas – Universidade Nova de Lisboa, IELT 

lavrador2@gmail.com, anatav28@gmail.com 

This paper focuses on the landscape of Portuguese wine regions, their particular wines 

and gastronomy as represented in literary excerpts, from the nineteenth and twentieth 

centuries. Our aim is to improve the knowledge, the differentiation and the promotion of the 

Portuguese wine regions and their wines, useful for the wine market and the promotion of the 

tourism. Combining the mutual appreciation of the literary excerpts and the landscapes, 

heritage values (natural and cultural) of the winegrowing regions could also be underlined. 

This wine trip results of the "Atlas of the Literary Landscapes of Portugal Continental" 

(ALLPC) Project, started in June 2010 and be coordinated by the IELT, FCSH, Lisbon. It is 

defined as an interdisciplinary research Project, with three main applications: education, 

promotion and territorial planning management. 

As theoretical guidelines, the ALLPC Project fits the ecocriticism framework, being 

sustained by the authors’ PhD thesis, and those from other team collaborators, in order to 

give credibility to the registers and observation notes linked to the landscape themes selected 

in the literature. The use of a GIS is a key element to the geographical referencing of the 

literary landscapes. 

As methodological procedures, the Portugal Continental landscapes represented in the 

literary excerpts are registered in a data basis, for which are associated geographical 

descriptors (geomorphology, land use, material and immaterial heritage values, economical 

activities) and ecological descriptors (species of fauna and flora of the regions). The excerpts 

collection involves students, graduate students and academics in Humanities and 

Environmental Sciences, there being assumed three levels of collaboration :a) the “readers”, 

those who intervene only in the compilation of literary excerpts and their classification; b) the 

“researchers”, who contribute to the compilation process, supervise the readings and are 

responsible for ecocritical analysis; c) the“web designers”, involved in the implementation and 

maintenance of the data basis and the interactive website of the literary landscapes. The 

website will allow us to search the literary excerpts using a map of Portugal Continental. 

In the future, the website could be useful in the preparation of literary tours in the 

winegrowing regions, as well as being an important didactical framework in the research of 

landscapes values and singularities, a toolbar for those who are involved in the wine or 

tourism marketing, or even interested in the wines and gastronomy consumption. 





10.00 - 11.20 am 

Session 7 

WINE & LAW 

Chaired by Theodore GEORGOPLOULOS 

La protection des appellations d’origine viticoles européennes 

aux Etats-Unis 

Caroline LE GOFFIC 

Université Paris Descartes - FR p.58 

Quelques gouttes de droit dans un océan de vin : exemple 

(très) prospectif de l’accord appelé par les articles 22 à 24 

ADPIC sur les indications géographiques 

Jean-Denis DUPUY-MANAUD 

Avocat à la Cour de Toulouse – FR p.59 

EU Public Policy in the Wine Sector: a Matter of Coherence 

Theodore GEORGOPOULOS 

The Wine & Law Program - University of Reims - FR p.60 


La protection des appellations 

d’origine viticoles européennes aux Etats-Unis 

Caroline LE GOFFIC 

Université Paris Descartes 

Caroline.le-goffic@parisdescartes.fr 

Le présent projet de communication vise à analyser et à évaluer l’étendue de la 

protection juridique des appellations viticoles européennes sur le territoire des Etats-Unis. 

En vertu du principe de territorialité, c’est le droit américain, tel qu’appliqué par les 

tribunaux des Etats-Unis, qui détermine si une appellation d’origine bénéficie ou non d’une 

protection. Or, les règles américaines en la matière (droit des marques et réglementation 

administrative du Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) sont moins protectrices que les 

droits français et européen. Cela s’explique, d’une part, par la moins grande réception aux 

Etats-Unis du concept de terroir, qui fonde la protection accordée en Europe aux appellations 

d’origine ; et, d’autre part, par l’histoire du peuplement américain, qui a vu les immigrants 

européens s’installer et continuer à utiliser les dénominations de leurs pays d’origine. En 

conséquence, les appellations viticoles européennes se sont vu à plusieurs reprises refuser 

une protection aux Etats-Unis, en particulier sur la base de leur qualification de 

dénominations génériques ou semi-génériques (voir notamment l’affaire « Chablis with a 

twist »). 

Devant cet obstacle, les négociateurs européens ont tenté d’obtenir à la table de l’OMC la 

« récupération » d’une série d’appellations prestigieuses (Champagne, Chianti, Jerez…). Cette 

tentative s’étant soldée par un échec, les négociations ont emprunté la voie bilatérale. Un 

accord commercial a ainsi été signé le 20 mars 2006 entre l’Union européenne et les Etats- 

Unis. On en présentera les principaux apports en matière de reconnaissance mutuelle 

d’indications géographiques viticole. On montrera que cet accord – ainsi que la législation 

américaine consécutive – constituent une étape déterminante dans l’abandon des usages 

génériques des appellations européennes sur le territoire américain. Cet instrument juridique 

comporte cependant d’importantes limites, qui seront soulignées. Elles tiennent notamment à 

une clause permettant, à certaines conditions, la poursuites d’usages antérieurs. 

En conclusion, on insistera sur l’importance des solutions alternatives non juridiques, 

telles que la publicité et l’éducation des consommateurs, dans la protection des appellations 

d’origine viticoles aux Etats-Unis. 




Quelques gouttes de droit dans un océan de vin : 

exemple (très) prospectif de l’accord appelé 22 à 24 ADPIC 

sur les indications géographiques 

Jean-Denis DUPUY-MANAUD 

Avocat à la Cour de Toulouse – FR 

Les accords ADPIC ouvrent bien des voies de réflexion, en général assez complexes, et on 

le sait, il arrive qu’ils peinent à les refermer sur des solutions stables : ce processus ne peut 

que mûrir lentement. Or c’est le cas des indications géographiques. 

a) l'utilisation, dans la désignation ou la présentation d'un produit, de tout moyen qui 

indique ou suggère que le produit en question est originaire d'une région géographique autre 

que le véritable lieu d'origine d'une manière qui induit le public en erreur quant à l'origine 

géographique du produit; 

b) toute utilisation qui constitue un acte de concurrence déloyale au sens de l'article 

10bis de la Convention de Paris (1967). 

Que signifie : « bénéficier d’une protection dans les pays Membres participant au 

système » ? Cela a certainement trait à une opposabilité multilatérale, proposée pour remplir 

l’objectif de 22§2, qui lui, pourtant, vise explicitement l’ordre juridique interne. Voilà une 

première articulation, riche. Et à quoi s’applique cette protection ? Voici une de ces 

magnifiques ambiguïtés, si révélatrices d’un trouble dans la rédaction : « des indications 

géographiques pour les vins susceptibles de bénéficier …» : sont-ce les vins qui sont « 

susceptibles de bénéficier d’une protection » ? ou les IG ? Comme la première interprétation 

n’a pas grand sens, choisissons bien sûr la seconde: l’expression « des IG susceptibles de 

bénéficier d’une protection multilatérale » signifie bien que d’autres IG peuvent ne pas en 

bénéficier. La phrase correctement ordonnée devient maintenant : « un système multilatéral 

de notification et d'enregistrement des indications géographiques susceptibles de bénéficier 

d'une protection dans les Membres participant au système, pour les vins. » 


EU Public Policy in the Wine Sector: a Matter of Coherence 

Theodore GEORGOPOULOS 

The Wine & Law Program - University of Reims 

theogeorgopoulos@wanadoo.fr 

The paper offers an overview of the public policy of the European Union with regard to 

wine making and wine consuming. Especially, the affirmation of common environmental 

standards in wine-making, the controversial question of organic wines as well the protection 

of consumers and actions against alcohol abuse are not simply issues that need to be taken 

into account by European institutions in the field of wine regulations. 

The paper argues that these issues are nowadays distinct objectives integrated in the EU 

wine legislation. The paper scrutinizes the main points and especially the legal methods 

applied in order to achieve these public policy goals. It also tries to identify the means that 

should ensure coherence between these objectives and the need to assert the 

competitiveness of the European wine business. 






11.20 - 12.20 am 

Session 8 

POSTER SESSION 

Chaired by Françoise BOURDON 

Presentation of the Wines of the Loire Valley: Economic and 

Statistical Elements 

Fanny GILLET, Christian VITAL 

INTERLOIRE - FR p.62 

"Excellent" or "Author's" Wineries in Landscapes of 

Sustainability 

Alessandra MICCOLI, Sandro SILLANI, Roberto ZIRONI 

Dipt. Scienze degli Alimenti, Universita degli Studi Udine - IT p.63 

Grappa Industry in Sicily 

Nicoletti GIULIA, Gian Gaspare FARDELLA 

Universita di Palermo – IT p.64 

La consommation modérée de vin 

Delphin NGANDU, Mireille TSHIALA 

Institut de Recherche et Development, Katfoundation – 

Kinshasa – CD p.65 

La femme et le vin dans la société d’aujourd’hui 

Joe T DECROSTA 

Dorcas foundation, Kinshasa – CD p.66 

L’effet du complex des micronutriments Microcom-V sur la 

qualité du jus de raisin 

Sofia VELIKSAR, Tatiana DAVID, Natalia LEMANOVA, Valentina 

BUSUIOC, Andrei COMANIUC 

Institut de génétique et physiologie des plantes à l’Académie 

de Science – MD p.67 

Urban sprawl and vineyards: land-use conflicts. 

Françoise BOURDON, Marie-Claude PICHERY 

Laboratoire d'Economie et Gestion - UMR CNRS 5118 - 

Université de Bourgogne – FR p.68 

Quel avenir pour le vignoble malgache ? 

Harivola ANDRIAMANANJARA RAMBELOSON 

Département de Géographie, Fac. Lettres et Sciences 

Humaines, U. d’Antananarivo – MG p.69 

L’utilisation des souches bactériennes contre maladies de 

vigne et leur influence sur la qualité de vinification 

Sofia VELIKSAR, Elena SCORBANOVA, Natalia LEMANOVA 

Institut génétique & physiologie des plantes Académie de Sciences 

Institut horticulture & technologie alimentaire-MD p.70 

Sustainability of the Top Ranked Restaurants in France. An 

Analysis of Gault-Millau from 1974 to 2010 

J. François OUTREVILLE 

HEC Montréal , Québec – CA p.70 

Eno-Cultural and Emotional Surplus Value 

Alessandra MICCOLI 

Dipartimento di Scienze degli Alimenti, Universita degli Studi 

di Udine – IT p.71 

Presentation of the Wines of the Loire Valley: 

Economic and Statistical Elements 

Fanny GILLET, Christian VITAL 

INTERLOIRE - FR 

« … des vins décomplexés qui se boivent sans prise de tête. Le vin fait peur, en particulier 

aux jeunes. Le Val de Loire est capable de lever cette intimidation et démystifier la 

dégustation au caveau» … 




"Excellent" or "author's" wineries in landscapes of sustainability 

Alessandra MICCOLI, Sandro SILLANI, Roberto ZIRONI 

Dipartimento di Scienze degli Alimenti, Università degli Studi di Udine 

alemiccoli@hotmail.com 

The rural landscape is the product of the interaction between cultural and environmental 

factors and, as such, is an unequivocal demonstration of human action exerted over the 

centuries by human societies, which have changed - up to shape - the environment. 

If the term environment includes its own system of relationships that develop between 

the physical space and human space, well, the rural world in itself sums up a set of cultural 

values of great importance, linked to a variety of aspects related to cultivation techniques, 

traditional crafts, architectural styles, construction techniques, the agricultural food 

production (traditional and otherwise), forms of control and environmental management. The 

rediscovery of the countryside - and with it of its landscape - is a necessary step for the 

development of historical and cultural routes, but also the progress of civilization and the 

evolution of the economy towards growth patterns inspired by sustainable development, and 

this is what proponents say the most innovative marketing strategies and local wine. 

The approach to the wine world and its increasingly reveals its cultural dimension. 

Generally, favorable economic conditions and increased per capita income are factors that 

have influenced the growing demand for quality wines. The phenomenon is most obvious 

innovation in the architecture of the wineries and the resulting innovation landscapes. This is 

a result of management policies and planning responsive to the needs of environmental 

sustainability. The investigation on the processes of fermentation of wine production is very 

functional in order to understand the extent to which technology has affected the production 

of man-made space and relevance, but is not returning a complete view of the realities of 

production. The quality products have never deviated too much from the traditional model of 

the cellar, improved through the introduction of innovative technologies and trying to 

organize the space according to changing requirements. 

It was huge the surprise to realize that exceptional wines could be produced outside the 

restricted circle of favorable regions for tradition.The new sites of world enology are the result 

of a process of enhancing the product in close harmony with the land of origin. Undoubtedly, 

the benefits of the heritage area is not limited to sponsoring companies, having been 

extended to all producers in the regions involved and having triggered a general turn towards 

quality. Given that wine is the product of the earth, it is important that the architecture and 

landscapes copyright, facilities and advanced technologies will be integrated with the image 

quality and naturalness, in full respect of the territory. In new projects, large reception and 

meeting space is reserved for: communication is key to spreading the culture of good wine, 

leading to appreciate the qualitative component, but also cultural. 

It should be noted that, in viticulture, the architecture is, first, in the vineyard (which 

becomes the garden) and in the appearance of technology and know-how needed for the 

design of a good wine. For this reason, the architecture and landscapes of copyright royalties 

in addition to responding to specific aesthetic and sensory function should search the place of 

production, ensuring that the final cost of the wine to be burdened by high costs "incidental." 

Here the author is associated inextricably cellar of the vineyard copyright: a new type of 

design in wine cellars and vineyards which are part of a unique, creating landscapes author 

with multiple functions, diversified, but not necessarily separate. 



A new way to approach it in a conscious and responsible to the territory and innovative 

content in full respect of traditional vocations and, above all, the harmony of the landscape. 

Behind this, which aims to promote the production, safeguarding and enhancing the local 

identity and encourage economic and cultural processes broader, not least the wine tourism. 

An exciting wine, produced in a cellar of the author and placed in a landscape page, can 

only be an advantage for the producer and for the entire territory, thus increasing the 

attractiveness and potential of tourism development. 

L’INDUSTRIA DELLA GRAPPA IN SICILIA 

Nicoletti GIULIA,Gian Gaspare FARDELLA 

Università di Palermo (Italy) 

giunipa@libero.it 

The characteristic of the Sicilian wine-growing regions and areas make production of wine 

and related by-products of the island unique, at a worldwide level, due to the quality and 

variety of products, offering a wide and diverse range in terms of sensory traits, distinctive 

attributes and price. In this context, it is strength to have an extensive range of products of 

excellence. Over the last fifteen years the grappa sector, previously almost exclusively the 

prerogative of wine producers in the North of Italy, has established itself and today forms part 

of the Sicilian wine scene. 

This research-based on past study about the structure of the production dynamics and 

export trends and destination markets for Sicilian-produced grappa - is aimed at studying the 

structure and competitiveness of the Sicilian grappa within the wine sector. 

Therefore, moving from the origins of the grappa production in Sicily, we will first study 

the production processes, analysing both the most recent technological innovations related to 

the storage systems for raw materials as well as the different distillation methods. 



La consommation modérée de vin 

Delphin NGANDU, Mireille TSHIALA 

Institut de Recherche et Development, Katfoundation – Kinshasa / RD Congo 

fmm@ausi.com 

Effets cardioprotecteurs d’une consommation modérée de vin : arguments soutenant le 

paradoxe français Ludovic Drouet, Service d’hématologie biologique, hôpital Lariboisière, 2 

rue Ambroise-Paré, 75010 Paris L’ensemble des données épidémiologiques sont concordantes 

pour montrer qu’une consommation de vin modérée (un à deux verres par jour), régulière, au 

cours des repas, dans les conditions nutritionnelles et de mode vie habituelles des pays 

producteurs de vins de la zone méditerranéenne, est associée à une réduction des 

événements cardiovasculaires et de la mortalité (de l’ordre de 20 à 30%). Cependant, de 

nombreux points demandent à être éclaircis, pour lesquels nous sommes loin d’avoir toutes 

les données : - Cet effet provient-il de l’alcool contenu dans le vin, ou est-ce le vin qui a un 

effet supérieur aux autres boissons alcooliques ? - Le vin exerce-t-il un effet comparable chez 

les hommes et chez les femmes ? - Est-ce un effet du vin ou des conditions socioéconomicoculturo-nutritionnelles 

accompagnant sa consommation régulière qui influent ? 

Quelle est la part de la composante génétique et des conditions socio-environnementales sur 

l’effet préventif ? 

Si une consommation régulière et modérée de vin s’accompagne d’une incidence réduite 

d’accidents cardiovasculaires, le vin pourrait-il avoir un effet en prévention secondaire ? Pour 

répondre à toutes ces questions, il faudrait des études cliniques d’intervention qui n’existent 

pas et qui ont peu de chance d’être mises en place. Ces études cliniques devraient s’étendre 

sur plusieurs années et devraient permettre de répondre à beaucoup de questions que nous 

nous posons, que ce soit sur les modes d’action sur les facteurs de risque (dyslipidémie et 

hypertension artérielle principalement), sur les modes d’action différentiels de la survenue et 

du développement des lésions d’athérosclérose, ou sur leurs conséquences ischémiques, en 

particulier d’origine thrombotique. Après que les études se soient penchées sur les effets 

métaboliques de l’alcool et du vin, en particulier sur le métabolisme du cholestérol (par 

exemple l’élévation de certaines fractions HDL induite par l’alcool), l’intérêt principal s’est 

porté sur le stress oxydatif. En effet, le stress oxydatif joue un rôle particulièrement important 

dans la physiopathogénie de ces événements et les composants (en particulier phénoliques) 

du vin ayant un effet antioxydant, ce mode d’action a été largement évoqué. Mais à côté de 

ces effets " classiques " du vin et de ses composants, l’on s’intéresse maintenant de plus en 

plus à des effets directs : au niveau de la paroi vasculaire, en particulier les effets 

vasorelaxants; au niveau des cellules circulantes, en particulier sur les plaquettes par un effet 

antithrombotique. 

Voici quelques-uns des effets potentiellement bénéfiques du vin. Devant l’absence de 

données formelles et définitives, cette revue de Giovanni de Gaetano et de ses collaborateurs 

fait un point actuel et critique de l’ensemble des évidences épidémiologiques et 

expérimentales (tant in vitro qu’ in vivo, chez l’animal comme chez l’homme) qui existent 

aujourd’hui. L’ensemble de ces données permet de spéculer qu’un effet à long terme sur les 

différents mécanismes (métaboliques, oxydatifs, thrombotiques, antihypertenseurs...) induits 

par une consommation régulière et modérée de vin dans un contexte de modération, 

d’éducation, de nutrition raisonnée, puissent retarder le développement de la pathologie 

artérielle et/ou prévenir les réactions ischémiques et thrombotiques, causes des accidents 

cardiovasculaires. Peut-être est-il illusoire de rechercher un seul mode d’action à la 



consommation du vin : il est possible que les multiples effets mineurs de plusieurs de ses 

composants puissent conduire à l’effet protecteur globalement noté dans le cadre d’une 

consommation modérée et d’une prise en charge des facteurs de risque et des conditions de 

vie, en particulier de la nutrition raisonnée. D’un point de vue " perspectives de santé 

publique ", il est évident que la consommation de vin doit être interdite lorsqu’elle présente 

un risque pour l’individu et/ou d’autres personnes : pendant la grossesse par exemple, ou 

pour des activités demandant un niveau de conscience élevée, comme la conduite 

automobile. La charge pour la société des pathologies induites ou aggravées par l’alcool et de 

la mortalité et la morbidité, en particulier par accident, en rapport avec l’alcool, ne peut en 

aucun cas être mise en balance avec l’hypothèse qu’une consommation modérée de vin 

puisse avoir un effet préventif dans la survenue des accidents cardiovasculaires. 

La femme et le vin dans la société d’aujourd’hui 

Joe T DECROSTA 

Dorcas foundation, Kinshasa, DR Congo 

dorcasfoundation@yahoo.fr 

La relation, parfois gourmande mais souvent conflictuelle, qui s’est établie entre les 

femmes et le vin depuis l’antiquité jusqu’à nos jours est très ambivalente, alternativement 

noire et blanche. Demander à un homme, médecin gynécologue-accoucheur et périnéologue 

de surcroit, d’en parler est une idée bien saugrenue ! Il ne suffit pas d’être, à titre privé, grand 

amateur des produits de la vigne. Mon éthique professionnelle va m’imposer des 

considérations pour le moins délicates ou hésitantes dont je prie mes amis oenologues de 

bien vouloir m’excuser par avance. 



L’effet du complex des micronutriments Microcom-V 

sur la qualité du jus de raisin 

VELIKSAR Sofia, DAVID Tatiana, LEMANOVA Natalia, 

BUSUIOC Valentina, COMANIUC Andrei 

Institut de génétique et physiologie des plantes à l’ Académie de Science, Moldova 

dechevas@rambler.ru, lemanova@mail.ru, 

Il est connu que la quantité suffisante des formes disponibles de micronutriments est la 

condition principale pour le développement optimal des plantes. Il est important d'optimiser 

leur contenu, puisque le manque et l'excès l'un des engrais peut influencer à la qualité des 

raisins pour le vin. En cette liaison le complexe des micronutriments Microcom-V a été créé 

pour les vignes qu’ils se trouvent dans les terrains avec la teneur faible d’oligoéléments pour 

les plantes. Cette préparation contient 6 micro éléments nécessaires pour le plante du vigne 

in relation optimal. Il est recommandée pour les traitements foliaires des plantes du vigne 

pendent les phases critiques la saison: jusqu'à la floraison, après la floraison, et pendent la 

croissance intensive des pousses et des raisins. 

Dans les années 2004-2010 l’utilisation de la préparation Microcom-V pour le traitement 

foliaire des souches de vigne pour le vin (Aligoté, Shardone, Codrinschii) et pour la table 

(Surucenschi blanc, Moldova) a montré l’effet positif sur la quantité de baies et la résistance 

des plantes aux températures basses en hiver. 

Influence des engrais sur la qualité du jus de raisin présente d'intérêt spécial. Pendant la 

véraison l'acidité, teneur de sucre, acides aminés, anthocyanes dans les variétés rouges ont 

été déterminés. La quantité du sucre après le traitement a été plus grande que le témoin sur 

0,8-1,4 %, l'acidité plus basse sur 0,5-0,8%. L’accumulation plus intensive d'acides aminés 

libres et d’amides telles comme l'asparagine, glutamine, arginine, l'histidine, qu’ils sont très 

importantes pour la formation du goût des baies et du vin a été remarque. Il est également 

important que la quantité des matières colorantes a augmenté aussi. Ainsi par exemple, des 

anthocyanes aux baies de cépage Codrinschii (Cabernet x, Rara noir) ont augmenté jusqu'au 

1088 ml/dm3 (in témoin -562 ml/dm3). 

Ainsi l’utilisation le complexe spécial des micronutriments dans la viticulture est une 

pratique importante agricole, nécessaire non seulement pour réglementer la productivité et la 

viabilité des plantes, mais aussi comme la technique importante pour l’amélioration le goût et 

les qualités nutritives des produits de la vigne, et en particulier le jus du vin. 



Urban Sprawl and Vineyards: Land-Use 

Françoise BOURDON, Marie-Claude PICHERY 

Laboratoire d'Économie et Gestion - UMR CNRS 5118 - Université de Bourgogne 

francoise.bourdon@u-bourgogne.fr, marie-claude.pichery@u-bourgogne.fr 

The recent urban development, the high prices of land and housing in the centres of town, 

encourage the populations to migrate and to go to live in the peripheral zones, formerly rural villages. 

The choice of localization of a household and the size of its dwelling place are determined by the 

residential services offered by the urban area. Compromises are then considered between the cost of 

housing (ground purchase, lease, tax on land,…), the distance to the centre town, incomes of 

households, transport costs associated with the commutings residence-work, the accessibility 

(outdistances some but undoubtedly more and more in time) in the workplace or in the centre town,… 

The rural villages concerned have seen their economy changing like their landscapes. In some 

cases, the agricultural lands become grounds to build or business parks, industrial parks, …. This 

encroachment on the agricultural lands implies specific problems when perennial cultivations (as the 

orchards or the vineyards) are concerned. In the case of the vine growing, resistances appear on behalf 

of the wine circle, with an intensity which depends on quality, reputation and hierarchical level of the 

products resulting from the vineyards or the category of wines proposed: vines for table grapes, grape 

for ordinary wine, grape for "vins d'appellation". Resistance also goes through the price of land and its 

growth rate since projects expansion of residential, commercial, artisanal or industrial zones are 

suspected. 

If the expansion of "central towns" gradually included the villages of first then of second 

periphery, additional constraints were imposed on all after promulgation of various laws and in 

particular the SRU law ("Solidarité et Renouvellement Urbains", December 13, 2000) which obliges the 

municipalities to integrate 20% of social housing in their residential park. Still, for the wine 

municipalities, the decisions taken to put itself in conformity with the law have different consequences 

according to the categories of produced wines. 

The theoretical references (the models of localization - Alonso, 1964 – as the works of 

geographical economy and urban economy - Camagni, 2007) are mobilized in order to release from 

the general behaviors around the ground rent; they constitute a framework for research. In addition, 

according to Cavailhès (2002, 2004) and Fathers (2007), the empirical observation reveals that the 

profitability released by the arable lands is often lower than the amount of the profits expected by the 

sale of the lands which can be urbanized. Consequently, only the agricultural activities which could 

carry out an important benefit could be maintained in peri-urban area. There are generally monetary 

benefits; but, other dimensions can appear consequently if this concern wine lands for which 

phenomena of reputation can be higher than the monetary aspects. It remains that the intensity of 

the land pressure and the existence or not of land reserves increases the land-use conflicts. 

However, this "desurbanization" of housing, often space swallow up, is constrained by the recent 

strategies which want to avoid the wasting; this leads to imagine the urban renewal with a thickening 

of the cities. Old districts, in limit of healthiness, are destroyed and restructured with buildings in 

conformity with the standards in terms of energy savings, ecology… Public buildings (barracks, 

administrative premises…) are rehabilitated and reallocated. After their transfers in the industrial 

parks, industrial buildings are recovered to become estate program. This possible return towards the 

city is partly justified by a will (of the households like people in charge of the communities) to limit 

transfers that product pollution and time wasted during the rush hours in the traffic jam at the entries 

and exits of city. 



Lastly, the existence of protections can disturb economic mechanisms by acting like constraints: it 

is the case through procedures of public regulation such as POS ("Plan d'Occupation des Sols"), PLU 

("Plan Local d'Urbanisme"), SCoT ("Schéma de Cohérence Territoriale"), some aspects of DTR law 

("Développement des Territoires Ruraux") or with possibilities of protection of the landscapes through 

the 1930's law, the "Chartre de Fontevraud" specific to the wine landscapes, or through a possible 

inscription on the Unesco World Heritage List. 

Quel avenir pour le vignoble malgache? 

Harivola ANDRIAMANANJARA RAMBELOSON 

Département de Géographie, Faculté des Lettres et Sciences Humaines, Université d’Antananarivo 

aharivola@yahoo.fr 

Il semble opportun de signaler que dans la géographie actuelle des vignobles, il est un espace qui 

subit aussi les contrecoups de la crise mondiale des vins. Cet espace, tout en faisant partie de la 

planète des vins est assez peu connu. Il se compose d’abord des vignobles dits nationaux des régions 

tropicales (SALOMON J.N., 2005), ensuite des vignobles de l’extrême, enfin des vignobles insolites. Ce 

genre de vignobles en général est marginal, n’étant ni dans le vieux ni dans le nouveau mondes des 

vins. Ces vignobles réagissent à l’exemple de celui de Madagascar face à la crise mondiale des vins. 

Dans une première partie, l’article répondra à la question suivante: peut-on parler d’un vignoble 

malgache ? Une question dont la réponse est difficile quand on sait que ce vignoble est d’abord 

d’introduction, ensuite il est petit (600ha), enfin il est original (c’est un défi agricole et culturel à la fois 

dans un milieu peu favorable à priori à son développement). Deux logiques différentes semblent 

structurer ce vignoble : la logique des grandes propriétés et celle des paysans. Mais nous pensons 

qu’une seule logique demeure, celui des grandes propriétés, car le vignoble paysan fonctionne comme 

une coopérative, dirigé par une société anonyme dénommé Lazan’i Betsileo, du nom de la principale 

région de production vitivinicole malgache. Le vignoble malgache est en crise actuellement. 

Ensuite, il dégagera les impacts de la mondialisation des vins en termes de marché, en 

l’occurrence celui du marché national. Etant donné qu’à Madagascar, l’offre de vins est inférieure à la 

demande, le problème de marché découle plutôt de la multiplication de la diversité et de la qualité des 

vins venant de l’extérieur alors que le prix quoique à la hausse, reste accessible. La part de marché des 

vins cachetés malgaches diminue de ce fait. Mais parallèlement, le vin en vrac continue à se vendre, 

segmentation de marché aidant. Une question se pose: la crise mondiale des vins est-elle l’origine 

profonde de la crise vitivinicole de Madagascar? 

Il parlera enfin d’un frémissement d’espoir qui se dessine pour ce vignoble, une tendance 

quoique à ses débuts mais une tendance quand même. Des essais de cépages nobles, cachés pour les 

uns, à la face du monde pour les autres, sont entamés depuis peu. Il semblerait que le vignoble 

malgache, n’ayant pas réussi à créer un vignoble typiquement malgache, longtemps protégé par un 

régime socialiste (1975-91), livré à lui-même depuis l’ajustement structurel, ait choisi de se positionner 

du côté des vins de terroir. Mais le chemin, pour y parvenir sera long. 



L’utilisation des souches bactériennes contre maladies de vigne 

et leur influence sur la qualité de vinification 

Sofia VELIKSAR, Elena SCORBANOVA, Natalia LEMANOVA 

Institut de génétique et physiologie des plantes à l’Académie de Sciences 

Institut d’horticulture et technologie alimentaire - République de Moldova. 

dechevas@rambler.ru 

La lutte contre les maladies de la vigne est nécessaire à cause de leur influence défavorable sur le 

raisin ainsi que sur la qualité du vin. La mycoflore des baies modifient l’intensité colorante du vin et 

rendent le vin inconsommable. Trois souches de bactéries, appartenant à genre Pseudomonas: putida, 

fluorescents, aureofaciens avec titre 107 KOE /ML ont été utilisés pour la pulvérisation de vigne cépage 

Sauvignon pendent la végétation. On détermine le développent l’Oïdium et la quantité des 

saprophytes au surface des baies. Les métabolites des bactéries diminuent la développent de la 

maladie in trois fois (12,8 – 12,1 %) par rapport au témoin sans traitement (39,7 %); le nombre des 

genres des champignons saprophytes - in deux fois. 

L’analyse organoleptique des vins du témoin et des échantillons d’essai a montré qu’ils se 

distinguent par un caractère variétal. Pourtant on voit l’influence des suspensions bactériaux dans les 

goûts plus équilibré et extractif des échantillons par rapport au témoin, à l’exception du traitement Ps. 

putida ayant un goût verdelet. L’analyse la composition chimique du vin a déterminé la teneur 

différente des certains composants. Les échantillons d’essai ont plus de polyalcools de 35-40 % en 

moyenne d’où vient un goût plus équilibre par rapport au témoin. La teneur l’acide succinique et 

malique détermine l’équilibre du goût et la valeur biologique du vin. Les échantillons d’essai ont plus 

d’acide succenique de 30% en moyenne par rapport au témoin, la teneure en acide malique est 

beaucoup plus basse. Une haute teneur en aldéhyde- acétique et en acide acétique des vins de base 

des échantillons d’essai et pour grand pouvoir fixant le SO2 par rapport au témoin prouvent de la 

tendance des échantillons d’essai à l’ocidification. 

Sustainability of the top ranked restaurants in France 

An analysis of Gault-Millau from 1974 to 2010 


HEC Montréal, Québec, Canada 

J-francois.outreville@hec.ca 

Since 1973, the Gault-Millau Guide is publishing each year a ranking of the best 

restaurants based on “toques”. 

During more than 25 years, on a scale of 20, the best restaurants were awarded 19 or 20 

(4 toques), followed by restaurants graded 17 or 18 (3 toques). Out of 1600 restaurants listed 

in the Guide in 1974, only 27 (less than 2%) had at least 3 toques. 

The notation was changed in 2010 to allow 5 and 4 toques to the best restaurants but 

basically the scale remains equivalent to the previous one. In 2010, out of the 5140 

restaurants listed in the Guide, only 64 were ranked in the top categories (less than 1.3%). 

The objective of this short note is to review the list of the top ranked restaurants from 

1974 to 2010 and examine the sustainability of the grades of these restaurants over time. 

The migration and default rates are presented for selected years over the period under 

study. It is shown that these rates are relatively stable over time. 



Eno-Cultural and Emotional Surplus Value 

Alessandra MICCOLI 

Dipartimento di Scienze degli Alimenti, Università degli Studi di Udine 

alemiccoli@hotmail.com 

Tourism is a crucial phenomenon in contemporary society. From the theoretical point of 

view, the environmental determinism has influenced the development of tourism and 

phenomena closely linked to it. The concept of tourism takes on a new connotation: a tourist 

destination cannot be determined solely by the presence of an attractive single, it seems that 

is being developed for the search of places with a concentration of references interconnected, 

but different. In this context fits fully in the food and wine tourism, which represents a 

growing trend in the expansion areas with a distinct vocation food, rich cultural resources 

that, properly exploited, exert their attractiveness to potential users. The food and wine 

tourism is a new type of tourism based on the culinary heritage of the place and includes the 

artistic and scenic routes as well as purely gastronomic. The essential role of restaurants, a 

real showcase of local products, these niche products that fall crafts food and wine. The 

turnover from the bustling food and wine tourism is going through a phase of ascent, in fact, 

this phenomenon affects a growing number of enthusiasts and experts. 

The value attributed to food is crucial: “We are what we eat”: the experience of eating is 

understood as a complex phenomenon, the sum of different elements involving both the 

sensory sphere that the intellectual: to eat, as the action, becomes a cultural experience. 

In terms of food and wine culture of the eighties were to mark the bottom in the fall of 

taste. And 1989 the birth of Slow Food, which took place in Paris, as if the French capital had 

seemed the only suitable location to begin the “process of counter-taste”. 

Failed model metropolis brought by Westerners after the two world wars, the campaign 

has proved to be the only port for the modern man in search of a new communion with his 

own human substance. The return movement to the campaign was largely led by the 

intellectual class, sensitive to the appeal of art and culture. The word organic has become the 

order, and they all began to know food very tasty and valuable: raw milk cheeses and aged in 

caves, and “culatelli” goose salami, wines and those born from the sands of heroic viticulture. 

The recovery of traditional foods and products of the countryside has given man the 

possibility of reconciliation with mainland itself. Eating a real food, not packaged, not 

manipulated by machines and not contaminated with preservatives has established a process 

of self-identification. 

Consider that tourists and wine, in most cases, have a high level of education, are usually 

educated, often professionals or at least hold positions of importance. They are men and 

women in the pursuit of pleasure, in the philosophical sense of the term, and have a good selfimage. 

Unconsciously know that, along with the product purchased in one place, taking home 

a piece of history and culture. In fact, if we analyze the performance of different forms of 

tourism, coupled with the dynamics of different markets can explain the results in terms of 

expenditure and value added. In terms of motivation and destination, must be reported to the 

strengthening of the more traditional segments and the consolidation and rising expenditure 

profile of those children. In particular, those who stated specific reasons (such as food and 

wine), shows a more selective profile, characterized by a high level of daily spending per 

capita. 

The food and wine tourism, as was stated above, has proved one of the most promising 

segments of the tourism sector. The relationship between rural areas and the demand for 



leisure and culture have intensified even more. The tourists / consumers decide to spend 

more time discovering the area, with particular attention to small areas and destinations socalled 

minor. The typical production being strongly imbued with the characteristic features of 

the area becomes the instrument for the promotion of the area. 

Food and wine has become crucial for moving and often appears as a voice among the 

reasons. Consider that food tourism is not intended as pure research products and typical 

food, but must be educated to the extent that offers the opportunity to get in touch with the 

territory, know the people and traditions and feel the feelings that evokes. 

Wine tourism is the best summary of the phenomenon, and this is confirmed by the large 

group of fans who choose to venture through the territories of the wine to get closer to local 

products and local cuisine. 

The international tourism market is in a phase of profound transformation, due to: 

- Changes in demand individual and collective; 

- Globalization of markets worldwide and the effects of the European Union; 

- Structural changes in the tourism system and the interactions of the application. 

Each of these elements has had a different way on the tourist market and its 

components, with the result of making the market more competitive and easily accessible to 

the entry of new destinations and difficult to maintain their positions already acquired. 

Food and wine, which segment of the emerging international tourism market, is 

becoming very important, going hiking and carving out space optics and a set timetable. In 

these cases, the motivation to explore food and wine alongside the wider cultural and 

environmental resources of the territory. 

Compared to the evolution over time, is not recognized five evolutionary phases: 1- Initial 

phase: the search for good wines and cheap to buy and friendly reception in the basement; 2- 

Phase selective choice of names and most prestigious wineries. Birth of guides and publication 

of articles in specialized press, 3- Phase outsourcing: the tourist requires specific services, 

which may be the tastings, the presence of wine bars, to restaurants, etc. 4- Phase 

experiential: the tourist wants to be the center of moments in which to participate (emotional 

marketing) 5- Phase of surprise and the surprise of falling in research, waste places known, 

predictable, and crowded “specially constructed” for tourists. 

The demand for wine tourism shall register the following situation: Wine tourists bycase, 

Wine tourists, Talent Scout, Luxury lovers. Wine tourism industry shows that it has 

received a strong impulse has made the transition from a culture of exclusively agricultural 

matrix to a more open, print management, focused on upgrading the tourism product. 

According to the characteristics and development trends of the market, as well as the 

skills and entrepreneurial skills, have outlined the content and guidelines for services. 

Planning winning bid also implies the achievement of loyalty by the consumer, who must be 

given to knowledge through integrated pathways to develop tourism and agriculture and 

production. As regards the question, however, are emerging new segments and new 

opportunities for networking with other sectors such as rural tourism and cultural tourism in 

compliance with new standards of quality, highly specialized professionals are required. The 

consumer-tourists are becoming increasingly knowledgeable and demanding and this is 

reflected not only on the choice of products and services, but also (and especially) on one of 

the operators who provide them. 




1.30 - 2.40 pm 

Session 9 

VALUE OF WINE 

Chaired by Marie-Claude PICHERY 

Does the Bottle Size Matter? The Market is Pricing the Wine 

not the Bottle 


HEC Montreal, Québec – CA p.74 

Parker, Wine Spectator and Retail Prices of Bordeaux Wines in 

Switzerland: Results from Panel Data 1995-2000 

Peter KUGLER, Claudio KUGLER 

WWZ - Universitat Basel – CH p.75 

Price Determinants of Bordeaux Wine 

Johanna BRUNNEDER, Benoit LECAT, Marcel PAULSSEN 

University of Geneva, University of Dijon – FR p.76 

Raise your Glass : Wine Investment and the Financial Crisis 

Philippe MASSET, Jean Philippe WEISSKOPF 

Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne, Université de Fribourg - CH p.77 


Does the bottle size matter? 

The market is pricing the wine not the bottle 


HEC Montréal, Québec, Canada 

J-francois.outreville@hec.ca 

What determines wine prices? The question is obviously not new and there is more than 

the price of wine in a bottle. Several factors intervene in the intersection of image and pricing. 

Scarcity, or the perceived rarity of a wine, can be one, because motivated consumers are 

willing to pay for the prestige associated with small-production bottling from renowned 

appellations. The decision to market wine in a different bottle size is considered to have more 

to do with the judgment of taste and the feeling of pleasure than other factors... bigger is 

better. Is it true? Does size matter? 

To our knowledge, no investigation of the possible effects of bottle size on supply or 

demand of liquid products has ever been made with the exception of Brunke et al. (2009). In 

their empirical analysis, based on wines offered at auction markets in Germany, they find a 

negative correlation between price and bottle size. When controlling for vintage and quality, 

they find that the bottle size generally does have very little or no effect on the price sold at 

auction. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the price effect with bigger bottles for 

Champagne and Bordeaux wines. 

The results of our investigation show a major difference between prices posted for 

bottles of champagne and auction prices for Bordeaux wines. In the case of Champagne, the 

price of wine increases more than proportionally with the size of the bottle. We show that the 

relative scaled price of the marketed bottle may vary from 1.0 for a standard bottle (0.75l) to 

a factor of 2.1 when the size of the bottle increases. According to Walras, value is an 

increasing function of scarcity. We show in this paper that this hypothesis may be explaining 

the increasing relationship between the posted prices of larger bottles of Champagne and the 

size of a bottle independently of the perceived quality of the wine or the region of production. 

However, further investigation based on prices determined at auctions for Bordeaux wines 

mitigates these results as the premium for larger bottles is much smaller than for posted 

prices. 

The paper is organized as follows. First we provide some background on bottle sizes. In 

the next section, we suggest a measure of the relative scaled price index to compare the price 

of different bottle sizes on the same scale, i.e. a standard bottle of 0.75l and then we show 

that its value is an increasing function of the size of bottles. We suggest that the hypothesis of 

scarcity may be explaining this increasing relationship. In the following section we verify that 

this hypothesis does not hold with a sample of wines for which auction “hammer prices” are 

available. The last section discusses the results and concludes the paper. 




Parker, Wine Spectator and Retail Prices of Bordeaux Wines 

in Switzerland: Results from Panel Data 1995-2000 

Peter KUGLER, Claudio KUGLER 

WWZ / Universität Basel 

peter.kugler@unibas.ch 

This paper considers the effect of Parker and Wine Spectator ratings on Swiss retail prices 

of the grand cru classé of Médoc, Graves and St Emilion as well as the most renowned wines 

of Pomerol in a panel data setting. 

The application of a two-way fixed effects regression model to data of the vintages 1995 

to 2000 of 121 wines leads to the following conclusions: There is clear evidence that WS 

ratings do not provide additional information for retail prices when we take into account the 

fixed effects and the Parker ratings. The evidence of a marginal effect of Parker ratings on 

Bordeaux prices is mixed. 

We find it for five of the nine appellations, in particular for Paulliac and Pomerol where a 

one Parker point increase is estimated to lead to a 6-7% price increase. This “only” partial 

price influence of Parker is confirmed by comparing the estimated “chateau” fixed effects for 

the Médoc estates with their standing in the “old” 1855 classification and the most recent 

Parker classification of 2008. 


Price Determinants of Bordeaux Wine 

Johanna BRUNNEDER, Benoit LECAT, Marcel PAULSSEN 

University of Geneva, University of Dijon 

brunned9@etu.unige.ch,benoit.lecat@unige.ch, marcel.paulssen@unige.ch 

Several studies have examined the determinants of wine price and have proven that 

sensorial characteristics of wine only possess a minor to no impact on price (Combris et al., 

1997 and 2000; Lecoq & Vissier, 2006; Benfratello et al., 2009). However other variables such 

as vintage, age, primeur price, rankings, expert ratings and weather have been discussed in 

the previous literature as significant determinants of prices of bottled wine (e.g. Di Vittorio & 

Ginsburgh, 1994; Jones & Storchmann, 2001; Ashenfelter, 2008). The purpose of this study is 

to simultaneously examine these key determinants of wine price. Additionally variables that 

are indicators of rarity such as the number of dealers that sell the wine and the production 

volume are studied. The present study further adds to existing research on the role of expert 

ratings on wine price. While previous research has confirmed that expert ratings in general 

have influence on wine price e.g. Ginsburgh et al. (1994), Di Vittorio & Ginsburgh (1996) and 

Landon and Smith, Jones and Storchmann (2001), we investigate which expert has a particular 

strong impact on the price of bottled wine. 

The editions of Vinfox between 1997 and 2008 provide the dataset ranges for our 

empirical analysis. The Vinfox database includes prices for all major dealers in Switzerland for 

wines of 88 estates from the Bordeaux region and vintages ranging from 1945 to 2008. 

We show that primeur price represents an important significant determinant of price for 

bottled wine and confirm findings from previous research (Hadj & Nauges, 2007). Further we 

address the issue of rankings and analyze the Bettane ranking and the ranking based on the 

classification of 1855. Since previous research has shown contradicting results (Combris et 

al.,1997; Hadj & Nauges, 2007) the question whether the classification of 1855 is still 

appropriate, is of high relevance. We also investigate which expert rating best predict wine 

price and compare the relative impact of different wine critics (e.g. Robert Parker, Coates, 

Gabriel; Wine Spectator etc.) Our results provide empirical support that the impact of ratings 

from wine expert varies considerably and some wine expert’s ratings clearly outperform 

others in terms of their predictive validity. Further we address the issue of rarity, a subject 

that has received limited attention in previous research. Catry (2003 and 2007) discusses this 

issue with focus on luxury goods explaining the importance and different facets of rarity to 

enhance the perceived value of products. Only Miller et al. (2007) and Jones and Storchmann 

(2001) study this topic in relation to the wine industry, by showing that the number of cases 

produced has negative influence on ratings (Miller et al. 2007) and that size of the estate plays 

a role in the determination of price (Jones & Storchmann, 2001). 

Results show that rarity has a statistically significant impact on price formation in the 

wine industry. Further results indicate that the number of dealers offering the wine has a 

negative impact on price, thus the more dealers offer the wine the lower the price. We 

further discover that the classification according to the ranking of 1855 that allows classifying 

wine into fine wine (Haut Brion, Lafitte, Latour, Mouton, Margaux and Yquem) versus non fine 

wine has a particularly strong impact on wine price. 





Raise your Glass: Wine Investment and the Financial Crisis 

Philippe MASSET, Jean Philippe WEISSKOPF 

Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne, Université de Fribourg (Suisse) 

philippe.masset@ehl.ch, jean-philippe.weisskopf@unifr.ch 

This paper uses auction hammer prices over the period 1996-2009, with a special 

emphasis on periods of economic downturns, to examine risk, return and diversification 

benefits of fine wine. We show evidence that the wine market is heterogeneous with wine 

regions and price categories evolving differently. 

We construct wine indices for various wine regions and prices and find that wine yields 

higher returns and has a lower volatility compared to stocks especially in times of economic 

crises. Results from the CAPM show that alpha is significantly positive while showing a low 

beta coefficient. The use of a conditional CAPM model allows us to clarify the time variance of 

alphas and betas depending on the economic environment. 

The time-varying dynamics of alphas and betas are best explained by the spread between 

BAA- and AAA-rated bonds and the USD/EUR exchange rate. Our findings confirm that wine 

returns are primarily related to economic conditions and not to the market risk. 

Forming portfolios for typical investors with different financial assets and various wine 

indices we confirm that the addition of wine to a portfolio is beneficial for private investors. 

Not only are returns favourably impacted and risk being minimised but skewness and kurtosis 

are also positively affected. 

Particularly, during the recent financial crisis these effects are most pronounced and 

improve portfolio diversification when it is most needed. Most importantly, balancing a 

portfolio with fine wine has resulted in added return while reducing volatility with the most 

prestigious and expensive vintages and estates outperforming the General Wine Index (GWI). 





3.00 - 4.20 pm 

Session 10 

GASTRONOMY 

Chaired by Joëlle BROUARD 

Le restaurant gastronomique : un outil de développement 

terrirorial ? L'exemple de Régis Marcon à Saint-Bonnet-le- 

Froid 

Vincent MARCILHAC 

ATER à l’université Paris-Sorbonne – FR p.80 

Les accords des vins et des mets, l'art de construire un plat 

autour d'un vin 

Jean-Michel MONNIER 

Oenologue, UFR ITBS-ESTHUA Angers University – FR p.80 

La Gastronomie Lyonnaise : 1960-2010 

Quentin BONNARD 

Université de Reims - Champagne - Ardenne – FR p.81 

Food, Gastronomy and Cultural Commons 

Christian BARRERE, Quentin BONNARD, Véronique CHOSSAT 

OMI, University of Reims – FR p.82 

Creativity in Gastronomy : Create or Die! The Cook’s Dilemma 

Véronique CHOSSAT, Christian BARRERE 

OMI (E.A. 2065) - Université de Reims - FR p.84 


Le restaurant gastronomique : 

un outil de développement territorial ? 

L’exemple de Régis Marcon à Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid 

Vincent MARCILHAC 

ENeC – UMR 8185 CNRS - Université Paris IV-Sorbonne, Institut Géographique de Paris 

Vincent.Marcilhac@paris-sorbonne.fr 

For twenty years, the fame of chef Régis Marcon has impulsed dynamism about food 

tourism in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid, a village at the border of Haute-Loire and Ardèche in France. 

Regis Marcon chose deliberately to stay in his native village and to cook in a local and regional 

fashion. This enhances the relative inaccessibility of the place where the restaurant is located. 

He built his gourmet reputation through a local food system and through regional products, 

developing the local economy through familial and social networks. 

"Les accords des vins et des mets, l'art de construire un plat autour 

d'un vin l'exemple de l'AOC Cabernet d'Anjou" 

Jean-Michel MONNIER 

Maître de conférences associé à l’ITBS 

ESTHUA - jmmoenolog@yahoo.fr 

La complicité des chefs de cuisine et des vignerons ne fait que croître. Le rêve des consommateurs ne 

passent plus uniquement par les AOC prestigieuses ou les propriétés classées au firmament des guides. 

Les clients recherchent maintenant de grands plaisirs sensoriels avec des produits issus de la terre 

cultivés avec un respect environnemental, mais surtout avec des caractéristiques olfacto - gustatives 

nettes, propres, typiques qui réveilleront leurs sens en évoquant sans artifices les souvenirs d'enfance 

d'une cuisine familiale simple et gourmande. 

De ce fait les repères classiques ancestraux des accords mets - vins ont changé. Il faut raconter une 

histoire aux clients du restaurant, et le faire voyager. La première évasion va commencer avec la bouteille 

de vin, à la découverte d'un paysage, d'une histoire, d'un patrimoine, d'un savoir faire... et de saveurs, 

puis dans l'assiette si le chef a su comprendre le travail du vigneron, il sublimera le vin avec une cuisine en 

parfaite adéquation tant visuelle, qu'olfactive et surtout gustative. On part de plus en plus en plus du vin 

pour créer le mets et non l'inverse comme depuis des générations. 

Mon intervention va s'appuyer sur le renouveau de l'A.O.C Cabernet d'Anjou et la création culinaire 

autour de ses sensations multi sensorielles: une robe rose violine, un nez charmeur, juvénile de petits 

fruits rouges, de bonbons acidulés et de fleurs bleues, et une bouche douce et suave, ce qui est unique 

dans les AOC françaises (les rosés demi secs sont uniquement produits en Anjou). 

Je mettrais en valeur les différentes recherches faites pour valoriser cette AOC tant sur une cuisine de 

terroir (Gogue segréenne, Rillauds d'Anjou, Crémets d'Anjou...), qu'une cuisine gastronomique avec des 

chefs étoilés, sans oublier les cuisines épicées du monde (la cuisine Thaie, la cuisine Chinoise du Sichuan, 

la cuisine épicée créole...). 




La Gastronomie Lyonnaise: 1960-2010 

Quentin BONNARD 

Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, U.F.R. de Sciences Economiques et de Gestion 

quentin.bonnard@univ-reims.fr 

L'Ile-de-France compte 15 027 établissements de restauration commerciale avec service à 

table, le Rhône-Alpes en a 11 502 en 2010. Ces deux régions sont les régions françaises les 

plus représentées en termes de nombre de restaurants, mais aussi en nombre d'étoiles 

Michelin (116 contre 94). Les villes de Paris et de Lyon ne sont pas étrangères à cette 

domination, car elles comptent respectivement 6639 (44,2 % des restaurants de la région) et 

1367 restaurants (12 %) ; et 97 (83,6 % des étoiles de la région) et 17 étoiles (18,1 %). Lyon 

abrite 12 restaurants étoilées au Guide Michelin 2010. C'est la plus forte concentration de 

récompenses gastronomiques en province. A titre indicatif, Toulouse ne compte que 5 

établissements étoilés et Bordeaux seulement 4. Ainsi, la région lyonnaise offre une des plus 

importantes gastronomies régionales françaises. L'objet de ce papier est d'étudier la 

gastronomie lyonnaise sur un période allant de 1960 à 2010 afin de mettre en lumière ses 

caractéristiques propres, son organisation, son mode de fonctionnement et son modèle de 

développement. 

Dans un premier temps, nous menons une étude statistique descriptive des 

établissements gastronomiques lyonnais. Nous constatons que leur nombre a fortement 

augmenté sur notre période d'étude (+ 63,4 %). Si nous observons les récompenses attribuées 

par le Guide Michelin, nous voyons qu'elles sont plus nombreuses en 2010 qu'en 1960 (+ 57 

%). Cependant, le nombre d’étoiles a diminué avec l'apparition des Bibs Gourmandsy. Est-ce 

que cela correspond à une baisse de qualité de la cuisine lyonnaise ? 

Pour répondre a cee interrogaon, il nous faut aller plus loin dans l'analyse stasque. 

C'est ainsi que dans un second temps, nous menons deux Analyses des Correspondances 

Multiples (ACM) sur la gastronomie sélectionnée lyonnaise en 1960 et en 2010, afin d'étudier 

plus particulièrement les relations entre la qualité de la cuisine, le cadre et les prix pratiqués 

par ces restaurants. Nous voyons que la sélection lyonnaise est marquée par une 

segmentation par la qualité de la cuisine, et que cette segmentation a changé aujourd'hui. 

Dans un troisième temps, nous en fournissons quelques explications. La première 

explication relève de la massification du marché gastronomique. La grande cuisine connaît 

actuellement une période de démocratisation, de nombreux chefs ouvrant des restaurants de 

« second ordre » à côté de leurs établissements renommés, comme des brasseries ou des 

auberges, élargissant ainsi le domaine gastronomique naguère réservé à de luxueux 

établissements. La deuxième explication nous provient de la dimension patrimoniale de la 

grande cuisine lyonnaise, le patrimoine gastronomique lyonnais étant l'un des plus riches de 

France, les chefs l'exploitent en toute simplicité afin de se démarquer de la sophistication de 

la gastronomie parisienne. 



Food, Gastronomy and Cultural Commons 

Christian BARRERE, Quentin BONNARD, Véronique CHOSSAT 

OMI, University of Reims 

christian.barrere@gmail.com, quentin_bonnard@hotmail.com, 

veronique.chossat@univ-reims.fr 

From the beginning of humanity people seem living in a social context: family, horde, 

clan, or tribe. The reproduction of the group implies food and the earlier collective institutions 

emerge from the necessity of supporting life. Food has to be prepared; the invention of fire 

allows cooking foodstuffs and develops cultural constructions as Levi-Strauss (1964) shown. 

Transforming natural resources into foodstuffs is a cultural and collective process, which 

constitutes a cultural commons in all the societies: they include a lot of resources (recipes, 

ways of using natural resources and so on) and then constitute common-pool resources as all 

the commons. But some (at least) culinary commons are not only common-pool resources, i.e. 

a simple collection of resources. They are related to the identity of the group (Fischler, 1993), 

they are structured by norms (Rappaport, 1984), they result from a social and cultural building 

and they pass through time, by a process of cultural transmission. Then they become 

heritages. 

The culinary creation has been for a long time mainly collective, traditional and modest. 

Nevertheless, gastronomy, which differs from nutrition, appeared when people or groups 

could separate the nutritive function of food and its pleasure dimension. Then, in some 

countries (China, Japan, France, Italy and so on) or some areas (corresponding to regional or 

local cuisines), culinary commons were developed up to constitute gastronomic cultural 

commons. On one hand, local cuisines evolved towards gastronomic services. On the basis of 

regional resources (truffles, fishes or mushrooms for instance), of regional selection and 

elaboration (goose or duck confit, smoked or marinated fish), they defined regional recipes, 

for standard cuisine but also for ceremonies and feasts cuisine. On the second hand, some 

countries gave birth to aristocratic cuisines. The society of the Louis XIV’s Grand Siècle played 

an exceptional role in the building, the normalization and the export of the aristocratic model. 

It constituted the basis of a gastronomic heritage (type of dishes, recipes, modes of 

presentation, crockery, ornamentation of the table ...). 

Then commons and heritages cannot be identified and the specificity of food and 

gastronomy commons has to be respected, according to the observation of Ostrom (1990): 

“the devil is in the details”. For natural resource commons, solutions are various and highly 

contextual. In the case of cultural commons, as the use of cultural resources is generally non 

rival, the problem is even more complex because the issue at stake is not to exploit natural 

resources avoiding waste and overuse but to produce and develop them (Madison, 

Frischmann and Strandburg, 2010). Culinary and gastronomic heritages are defined on two 

dimensions: a temporal one and a spatial one. 

In the first dimension heritages are the product of the past (a historical and not a 

chronological one), through a building and a selection process. They are also subject to 

reproduction; present time can add them new resources, for instance new recipes and new 

ways of cooking. The spatial dimension of heritages derives from the connection between 

heritages and communities. If there is a world common pool of gastronomic resources a large 

part of them are linked to local cultures and belong to specific heritages, to regional or local 

ways of cooking, largely dictating the way to make dishes, to associate flavors, to combine 



textures, and so on. As already seen that implies competition between particular heritages but 

has some implications on the access rights. Although almost resources are in open access, 

cultural barriers put a brake on their use. Nevertheless, now, the circulation and the use of 

culinary heritages become easier with the globalization and extend the global character of 

each local culinary culture. 

In the same time gastronomy is an industry that works according to market principles: 

chefs and owners off the restaurants seek money and profit. Some superstar chefs win a lot of 

money and, as Alain Ducasse, Joël Robuchon and Paul Bocuse, build gastronomic groups. They 

develop innovation and creation. Thus, gastronomy is simultaneously ruled by private and 

public properties. The aim of the paper is to consider the consequences of cultural 

gastronomic commons for the path development of gastronomy. What are the uses of 

gastronomic commons? How is determined their evolution? How are mixed private creativity 

and collective heritage? What about property rights on the creation? 


Creativity in Gastronomy: Create or Die! The Cook’s Dilemma 

Véronique CHOSSAT, Christian BARRERE 

OMI (E.A. 2065), Université de Reims 

veronique.chossat@univ-reims.fr, christian.barrere@gmail.com 

Generally speaking the notions of creation and creativity have changed through time: 

from God’s hand that guided the creative genius of Michel-Angelo and Raphael to the birth of 

cultural industries and the introduction of rational production methods allowing reproduction 

as serigraphy for instance. 

For about fifteen years cooking and more specifically gastronomy are invaded by 

discourses related to creativity. Creativity is everywhere: in the ingredients chosen by chefs, in 

the preparation of dishes, in their name, in their presentation, in the look of the venue, in the 

location, in the management, and so on. It has been established as a supreme value and then 

plays a key role to define production in order to justify and incite consumption of gastronomic 

goods and services. It is however clear that creativity has marked out the history of 

gastronomy: from quarrels opposing LSR to La Varenne in the 17th century France to the 

advent of the nouvelle cuisine and more recently to the emergence of Fusion food and of the 

Slow Food movement, creativity has always played a significant role in the running of the 

gastronomic market. What is new is the domination of creativity on other inputs. 

This paper aims to understand first the reasons of mutations toward more and more 

creative inputs in gastronomy. Most of the time mutations derive from crises. Is it the case for 

gastronomy? Then the nature of creativity has to be explored and finally this paper tries to 

present the principal issues of the advent of the creative dimension of gastronomy. It is clear 

that creativity alters the running of the gastronomic market. It implies mutations of the actors. 

Designers, scientists have penetrated in the kitchen to help chefs to develop new ways of 

cooking, new dishes, new techniques and so on. International luxury groups have also 

developed their activity in luxury hotels and aim to attract more and more Michelin starred 

chefs. It implies also a mutation in the experts’ advices who take more and more into account 

creativity to evaluate chefs. These evolutions tend to re-configure the market for gastronomy 

toward a new business model. 




VIRTUAL SESSION 

Scientific papers given to the Conference by people not present in Angers 

Full paper is available on our website 

The Impact of Price Promotions in Markets with Information 

and Choice Overload 

Luca A. PANZONE 

University of Manchester – GB p.86 

La mesure de la performance dans les filières françaises de vin AOC 

Aurélie DELUZE 

Université de Reims - Champagne - Ardenne – FR p.86 

The Influence of Michelin Stars on the Rise of Vegetables 

in haute cuisine. 

Marie-Léandre GOMEZ, Isabelle BOUTY 

ESSEC Business School , Université Paris Ouest Nanterre – FR p.87 

Women or Wine ? Monogamy and Alcohol 

Mara SQUICCIARINI, Jo SWINNEN 

LICOS, Centre for Institutions and Economic Performance, 

University of Leuven KUL – BE p.88 

Analysis of the Importance of Several Aspects before the Purchase 

of a Wine Bottle for Comunidad Valenciana (Spain) Consumers 

David Bernardo LOPEZ LLUCH, Fernando VIDAL JIMENEZ, 

Francisco Jose Del CAMPO GOMIS- 

Departemento de Economia Agroambiantal, 

Universisdat Miguel Hernandez – ES p.88 

Elaboration et tarification d’un contrat à terme sur les grands 

crus bordelais 

Antoine ACLOQUE 

HEC Montreal – CA p.89 


The Impact of Price Promotions in Markets 

with Information & Choice Overload 

Luca A. PANZONE 

University of Manchester 

luca.panzone@manchester.ac.uk 

The UK wine market is characterised by a large amount of product selection, where the 

heterogeneity of the production is generally due to the high level of product differentiation. There 

is a general argument in favour of product differentiation, as this can be an useful and effective tool 

to accommodate the needs of different consumers. This would imply an increase in consumer 

loyalty towards the product that maximises the utility function. On the other hand, an increasing 

number of options has been shown to have negative effects on the cognitive ability of consumers, 

who tend to reduce market participation. This problem is exacerbated when quality is not 

observable before purchase. 

This article tests whether a large portfolio of products is beneficial to consumers. Applying 

Gupta's (1988) framework to the wine market, the paper tests what is the main effect of 

discounting on consumer behaviour. Expectations are that if producers benefit (high fidelisation), 

discounts would favour a stockpiling behaviour (i.e. purchasing more) in consumers, with a 

negligible brand-switching effect. On the other hand, a brand-switching might favour consumers 

and retailers over producers, particularly when costs of information are high, since consumers 

could engage a trial-and-error strategy that reduces loyalty toward product and producers. 

Results show that discounts do not appear to have an impact on market incidence in the case 

of wine, while playing a determinant role in directing both the choice of segment and quantity 

purchased, with brand choice accounting for more than 45% of the total effect. From the results 

presented in this paper, it would appear that while producers and consumers do not necessarily 

benefit from discounts, retailers increase their revenues due to an increase in trading volumes. 

La mesure de la performance 

dans les filières françaises de vin à AOC 

Aurélie DELUZE 

Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, OMI EA 2065 

aurelie.deluze@univ-reims.fr 

Nous étudions la performance économique au niveau des filières françaises de production de vins 

à AOC. L’originalité de l’étude vient du niveau méso-économique auquel est appréhendée la 

performance, habituellement étudiée du point de vue des entreprises. A notre connaissance très peu 

d’études se sont intéressées à la performance au niveau de filières d’activité, qu’il s’agisse du secteur 

vitivinicole ou de tout autre secteur économique, d’où la dimension originale de notre analyse. Nous 

montrons que la détermination d’indicateurs permet de mesurer la performance au niveau de filières 

est possible, et qu’elle présente un intérêt en termes de gouvernance collective. A cette fin, nous 

discutons dans un premier temps des éléments fournis par la littérature au sujet de la performance et 

de sa mesure, avant de réaliser une analyse de données quantitatives appliquée aux filières françaises 

de vins à appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC). Nous avons notamment recours à l’analyse en 

composantes principales (ACP), qui permet de classer les filières françaises de vins à AOC selon quatre 

groupes en fonction de leurs performances économiques, appréhendées en termes d’évolution des 

ventes en volume et de valorisation. 




The Influence of Michelin Stars 

on the Rise of Vegetables in haute cuisine. 

Marie-Léandre GOMEZ, Isabelle BOUTY 

ESSEC Business School, Université Paris Ouest Nanterre 

gomez@essec.fr, ibouty@u-paris10.fr 

We build on an institutional approach to assess the influence of Michelin stars on the rise 

of vegetables in haute cuisine. Institutional theory suggests that organizations do compete 

and survive in a field on the ground of consensus over how the actor's world should be and 

that in institutionalized fields, taken for granted interpretive schemes, and organizational 

archetypes spread through isomorphism. We define haute cuisine as the field composed of 

agents and organizations engaged in the world of gourmet restaurants: the restaurants 

awarded with stars, their employees and clients, gastronomic critics and journalists, 

specialized journals, suppliers and contractors, some cooking schools and, last but not least, 

guidebooks. 

In order to examine the influence of Michelin stars on the rise of vegetables in haute 

cuisine, we empirically analyze the place of vegetables in haute cuisine on the ground of a 

longitudinal study of French gourmet restaurants between 1997 and 2007. We draw on 

multiple sources of data: a database that includes the signature dishes of all starred French 

chefs on the ground of annual directories issued by the Guide Michelin, interviews with elite 

chefs, observations at gourmet restaurants, and secondary data. 

We show that the status of vegetables has quantitatively and qualitatively changed in 

French haute cuisine. We highlight the leading role of elite three-star restaurants and follower 

position of others (one and two stars) in the process of institutional change. Our study 

contributes to a better understanding of the evolution and influence of haute cuisine, with the 

description of both new institutional rules and the role of three-star restaurants. In particular, 

whereas some studies are dedicated to the advancement of institutional theory and limit their 

use of gastronomy to that of an empirical field (e.g. Durand, Rao, and Monin 2007; Rao, 

Monin and Durand 2003; Svejenova, Planellas, and Mazza 2007), our aim here is to contribute 

to the understanding of haute cuisine, gastronomy and the restaurant industry with an 

institutional perspective. 


Women or Wine? Monogamy and Alcohol 

Mara SQUICCIARINI, Jo SWINNEN 

LICOS, Centre for Institutions and Economic Performance, University of Leuven KUL 

Jo.Swinnen@econ.kuleuven.be, Mara.Squicciarini@econ.kuleuven.be 

Intriguingly, across the world the main social groups which practice polygyny do not 

consume alcohol. We investigate whether there is a correlation between alcohol consumption 

and polygynous/monogamous arrangements, both over time and across cultures. Historically, 

we find a correlation between the shift from polygyny to monogamy and the growth of 

alcohol consumption. Cross-culturally we also find that monogamous societies consume more 

alcohol than polygynous societies in the preindustrial world. We provide a series of possible 

explanations to explain the positive correlation between monogamy and alcohol consumption 

over time and across societies 

Analysis of the Importance of several Aspects before the Purchase 

of a wine Bottle for Comunidad Valenciana Consumers 

David Bernardo López Lluch, Fernando Vidal Jiménez; 

Francisco José del Campo Gomis 

Departamento de Economía Agroambiental, Universidad Miguel Hernández 

david.lopez@umh.es, fvidal@umh.es, f.j.campo@umh.es 

This paper analyses the importance of several aspects that consumers in the Comunidad 

Valenciana take into account when getting a wine bottle from a shelf. 

These aspects are: 

The designation of origin, 

The price, 

Design and information on the label 

Design and information on the back label 

The point of sale, 

The seller advice, 

Friends and family recommendations. 

The information has been obtained through survey with 400 interviews throughout 

Comunidad Valenciana (Spain): These interviews were based on asking to answer a 

questionnaire with closed questions. 

It has been seen how the most valuated aspect is the Designation of Origin. The second 

aspect in the rank is Friends and family recommendations. Price is the third most valuated 

aspect. The less valuated aspects are the seller advice and the point of sale. The design and 

information of the label is more valuated than the design and information of the back label. 

Results seem to show how consumers want to reduce risk before buying a wine bottle 

looking for aspect they can rely on. They give more importance to family and friends 

recommendations than to the seller advice. 





Élaboration et tarification d’un contrat à terme 

sur les grands crus bordelais. 

ACLOQUE Antoine 

HEC Montreal 

antoine.acloque@gmail.com 

Depuis le début des années 1990, l'intérêt envers les grands vins français, en particulier 

pour les bouteilles les plus rares et les plus prestigieuses, s'est fortement accru. Acquérir des 

grands crus et les conserver en cave pour qu'ils se bonifient sont des moyens d'investissement 

alternatifs pour les amateurs de vin. Les prix de ces flacons ont atteint des records absolus et 

ont permis la naissance d'un marché secondaire très dynamique. Il existe désormais une 

bourse des vins à Londres : le Liv-ex. 

Plusieurs fonds d'investissement ont vu le jour, profitant de ce placement très attractif. 

Cependant, mis à part l'achat direct dans les bouteilles, il n'existe pas encore de produit dérivé 

lié à ce sous-jacent. Un contrat à terme sur les grands vins permettrait un éclaircissement de 

ce marché encore opaque. Il s'agirait d'un contrat à terme sur un indice boursier, le Liv-ex 50, 

qui standardise le marché secondaire des cinq 1er Crus Classés. En effet, l'amateur averti 

pourrait se couvrir afin d'obtenir des flacons à des prix plus abordables pour des millésimes de 

grande qualité. Le commerçant aurait le choix de fixer le prix de son approvisionnement et 

l'investisseur celui de prendre des positions de manière plus fluide. Il existe donc un besoin à 

combler entre l'envergure du marché secondaire, l'utilité des agents et de leurs transactions 

comme il existe une forte corrélation entre le marché des primeurs et les transactions liées au 

marché secondaire. Ce projet n'est pas nouveau puisqu'en 2001, le Winefex, un contrat à 

terme sur les vins de Bordeaux, fut transigé sur le marché de l'Euronext. Cependant, il ne fut 

négocié que pendant trois mois, pour diverses raisons qui seront soulignées par la suite. 

L'objectif de ce papier est de comparer différentes méthodes de tarification qui seraient 

des candidates à l'évaluation d'un tel contrat à terme. Björk (1998) et sa tarification d'un droit 

contingent non transigeable sera un axe étudié. En second lieu, la tarification basée sur le VIX, 

un contrat à terme dont le sous-jacent n'est pas directement transigeable, semble concorder 

avec l'indice sur les grands vins. Enfin, une analyse numérique des données grâce à la 

méthode des noyaux et au modèle Log-normal sera conduite. Dans cette même section seront 

analysés les modèles avec sauts : le modèle de Merton ainsi que celui de Kou pour finaliser les 

comparaisons. En second lieu, l'objectif moral de ce projet est de rendre, grâce à ce contrat à 

terme, un marché plus “ liquide ” entre les grands châteaux et les acheteurs. 

L'effet des critiques du vin (Parker, Wine Spectator...) est le même que celui des agences 

de notation (Moody's, Standard & Poor), elles définissent la qualité du vin. Cependant ces 

critiques sont basées sur des critères gustatifs subjectifs qui peuvent très bien emporter au 

sommet le prix de certains vins de moyenne qualité et en descendre d'autres qui pourtant 

sont exceptionnels 




AUTHOR's INDEX 

Name of author or co-author firstname session page 

ACLOQUE Antoine VS 89 

AGNOLI Lara 3b 31 

ANDRIAMANANJARA RAMBELOSON Harivola Poster Session 8 69 

ANDRIANTSITOHAINA Ramaroson Public Opening Session 7 

BARBER Nelson 6 54 

BARBER Nelson 6 54 

BARRERE Christian 4a 36 

BARRERE Christian 10 82 

BARRERE Christian 10 84 

BEGALLI Diego 3b 31 

BENEDETTO Graziella 1 13 

BENTZEN Jan 3b 32 

BONNARD Quentin 10 81 

BONNARD Quentin 10 82 

BOURDON Françoise Poster Session 8 68 

BOUTY Isabelle VS 87 

BOUZDINE–CHAMEEVA Tatiana 3a 24 

BOUZDINE–CHAMEEVA Tatiana 6 55 

BRANDANO Maria-Giovanna 4b 41 

BRAVO-URETA Boris 4b 42 

BRÉMOND Joël 5 49 

BROUARD Joëlle 1 12 

BROUARD Joelle 4a 36 



BRUNET Johanne 3a 26 

BRUNNEDER Johanna 9 76 


BRUNO-BOSSIO Victoria 4b 43 

BUSUIOC Valentina Poster Session 8 67 

CAMERON Emmanuel 3a 26 

CAPITELLO Roberta 3b 31 

CASOLANI Nicola 3a 25 

CASTILLO-VALERO Juan-Sebastian 2 17 

CHIODO Emilio 3a 25 

CHIRONI Stefania 3a 22 

CHLADKOVA Helena 4b 44 

CHOSSAT Véronique 10 82 

COHEN Justin 3a 26 

COHEN Justin 3b 30 

COMANIUC Andrei Poster Session 8 67 

CORADE Nathalie 4a 38 

COURET Frédéric 2 16 

DAVID Tatiana Poster Session 8 67 

DECROSTA Joe-T Poster Session 8 66 

Del CAMPO-GOMIS Francisco-Jose VS 88 

DEL’HOMME Bernard 1 14 

DELUZE Aurélie VS 86 

DETOTTO Claudio 4b 41 

DITTER Jean-Guillaume 4a 36 

DONOVAN Janis 6 54 

DUNIACH Krista 3a 23 

DUPUY-MANAUD Jean-Denis 7 59 

ETCHEVERRIA Olivier 4a 35 

ETZO Ivan 2 18 

FANTINI Andréa 3a 25 

FARDELLA Gian-Gaspare Poster Session 8 64 





GALAM Serge 3a 24 

GARCIA-CORTIJO Maria-Carmen 2 17 

GEORGOPOULOS Theodore 7 60 

GINON Emilie 1 12 

GINON Emilie 5 51 

GIOMO Andrea 4a 34 

GIULIA Nicoletti Poster Session 8 64 

GOMEZ Marie-Léandre VS 87 

GURSKA Sylvie 4b 44 

INGRASSIA Marzia 3a 22 

JELLIFFE Jeremy 4b 42 

KUGLER Peter 9 75 

KUGLER Claudio 9 75 

L’HOSTIS Gildas 5 48 

LAI Maria-Bonaria 2 18 

LAVRADOR Ana 6 56 

LECAT Benoit 9 76 

LE-GOFFIC Caroline 7 58 

LEMANOVA Natalia Poster Session 8 67 

LEMANOVA Natalia Poster Session 8 70 

LOPEZ-LLUCH David-Bernardo VS 88 

MARCILHAC Vincent 10 80 

MASSET Philippe 9 77 

MASSIDDA Carla 2 18 

MCCULLOUGH Michael 3b 31 

MICCOLI Alessandra Poster Session 8 63 

MICCOLI Alessandra Poster Session 8 71 

MILTGEN Caroline 3a 23 

MONNIER Jean-Michel Opening Ceremony 19 

MONNIER Jean-Michel 10 80 

NGANDU Delphin Poster Session 8 65 

NGUYEN Thai-Quang 3a 27 

OUTREVILLE Jean-François Poster Session 8 70 

OUTREVILLE Jean-François 9 74 

PANTIN-SOHIER Gaelle 3a 23 

PANZONE Luca VS 86 

PAULSSEN Marcel 9 76 

PICHERY Marie-Claude Poster Session 8 68 

PROKES Martin 4b 40 

QENANI Elvis 3b 31 

RESNICK Evelyne 5 52 

SCORBANOVA Elena Poster Session 8 70 

SEYTE Françoise 3a 27 

SILLANI Sandro 4b 43 

SILLANI Sandro Poster Session 8 63 

SMITH Valdemar 3b 32 

SOHIER Alice 3a 23 

SQUICCIARINI Mara VS 88 

STENGEL Kilien 5 50 

SUTAN Angela 1 12 

SUTAN Angela 5 51 

SWINNEN Jo VS 88 

TATARU Dorin 3b 30 

TAVARES Ana-Cristina 6 56 

TINLOT Robert Public Opening Session 9 

TOMSIK Pavel 4b 44 

TSHIALA Mireille Poster Session 8 65 

UGAGLIA Adeline 1 14 

VANNINI Marco 4b 41 

VELIKSAR Sofia Poster Session 8 67 





VELIKSAR Sofia Poster Session 8 70 

VIDAL-JIMENEZ Fernando VS 88 

WEISSKOPF Jean-Philippe 9 77 

WILSON Damien 5 51 

ZIRONI Roberto Poster Session 8 63 

A SPECIAL Thanks to our Partners 

for Providing Support to this Event 

aa nn dd

ENOMETRICS XVIII - Vineyard Data Quantification Society VDQS

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