2006 Results - Royal National Capital Agricultural Society

2006 Royal Canberra Extra Virgin Olive Oil Show
Comments from the Chairman of Judges
The overall standard of olive oils submitted to this show continues to improve. The 2006 entries were of
a very good to excellent standard, and were an improvement on the oils produced from the difficult
2005 season. In particular the small volume classes were very strong as is evidenced by the very
strong showing of medals awarded in this class.
Probably the most important trend is the move away from a dominance of robust oils based on Italian
varieties towards a greater diversity in terms of variety and style. For the first time, oils displaying
characters other than a dominant herbaceousness were in the majority, as were the medium to mild
styles. Given the popularity of milder and riper oils in the marketplace, this trend is very welcomed.
Indeed one might argue that their rise to greater prominence is overdue. Crafting these styles does
present new challenges. Making oils from ripe olives that do not display fermentation characters, or
making mild oils that are vibrant and fresh is a difficult skill to master. I’m pleased to say that many of
the milder and riper styles of exhibits showed the necessary hallmarks of freshness and vitality. Their
growers and millers should be congratulated.
The larger volume multiple estate class was consistent. While there were few standouts, the fact that
they were fresh, very serviceable and of a good quality is encouraging. Many of these oils will find their
way onto supermarket shelves and therefore will be the flag-bearers of our industry. While some small
producers may not concern themselves too greatly with the machinations of the ‘big end of town’ it is
worth noting that consumer opinion of Australian olive oil in general, is most strongly formed on the
strength of the widely available Australian supermarket oils. So in reality their standard affects us all.
This show is unique in that it is the only capital city show which has a class dedicated to local
producers. While this may be seen as some as being parochial, the reality is that the class is judged
using the same standards as any other class in the show. However, there is a distinct advantage of
having a dedicated class to local producers. It allows opinions to be formed as to the quality and
direction of the locally produced product. After reviewing my previous reports it is clear that over the
years there has been a distinct separation of oils both in terms of style and overall quality. This year, as
in the past four, some of the best (or the best) oil has been locally produced. Unfortunately the local
class has always had a representation of overly bitter metallic oils which were short on fruit and
sometimes freshness. I’m not in a position to speculate why this is the case. However, I did note that
the average polyphenol level in this class was over 350 parts per million (ppm) which is far higher than
the typical show average of 250 ppm, and (I estimate) a commercial average of under 200 ppm. As a
general rule, when oils exceed a polyphenol level of 350 ppm it is likely that they will display excessive
bitterness and metallic characters, and at 500 ppm it is almost a certainty. While robust oils will always
have a legitimate and important place in the olive oil world, the usability and culinary versatility of
excessively bitter oils is questionable.
Finally I’d like to thank all the judges and the stewards for their efforts. In particular, the efforts of the
chief steward Suzanne Coulton need to be recognised. Her work once again ensured a smooth and fair
conduct of this excellent show.
Richard Gawel
CHAIRPERSON
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