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<strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

March 14 – July 6, 2008<br />

CHECKLIST<br />

Hans Appenzeller, Dutch, born 1949<br />

Bracelet, 1976<br />

PVC<br />

Overall: 1 1/4 x 4 3/16 dia. in. (3.2 x 10.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Frank and Joanne Strauss, 2002.3581<br />

Hans Appenzeller, Dutch, born 1949<br />

Bracelet, 1976<br />

PVC<br />

Overall: 4 x 4 x 7/8 in. (10.2 x 10.2 x 2.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Frank and Joanne Strauss, 2002.3582<br />

Hans Appenzeller, Dutch, born 1949<br />

Bracelet, c. 1981<br />

Corian, rubber<br />

Overall: 1 3/4 x 3 7/8 dia. in. (4.4 x 9.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Frank and Joanne Strauss, 2002.3583<br />

Giampaolo Babetto, Italian, born 1947<br />

Brooch, 1982<br />

Epoxy resin and 18k gold<br />

1/2 x 4 7/16 x 1/2 in. (1.3 x 11.3 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3586<br />

Giampaolo Babetto, Italian, born 1947<br />

Brooch, 1984<br />

Nickel silver and epoxy resin<br />

1 x 6 7/8 x 1/2 in. (2.5 x 17.5 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3587<br />

Giampaolo Babetto, Italian, born 1947<br />

Brooch, 1992<br />

18k gold and pigment<br />

3/4 x 2 x 3 in. (1.9 x 5.1 x 7.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3589<br />

Giampaolo Babetto, Italian, born 1947<br />

Pair of Earrings, 1992<br />

18k gold and pigment<br />

(.A): 1 x 1 x 1 in. (2.5 x 2.5 x 2.5 cm)<br />

(.B): 1 x 1 1/16 x 1 1/16 in. (2.5 x 2.7 x 2.7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3590.A,.B<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 1 of 35


Robert Baines, Australian, born 1949<br />

Bracelet, from the series Intervention of Red, 1995<br />

24k gold, silver, alloys, plastic, and Coke can<br />

2 3/4 x 3 1/16 x 2 1/2 in. (7 x 7.7 x 6.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2005.197<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

Bracelet, 1969<br />

Anodized aluminum<br />

4 1/2 x 5 1/8 x 1 7/8 in. (11.4 x 13 x 4.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase 2006.670<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Vijf meter collier" Neckpiece, 1973<br />

Gold wire<br />

Overall: 1/16 x 5 3/4 dia. in. (0.2 x 14.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Susan Vaughan Foundation, 2002.3615<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Dewdrop" Neckpiece, 1982<br />

PVC, print, gilded brass<br />

Overall: 19 1/2 x 21 5/8 x 1/16 in. (49.5 x 54.9 x 0.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Cyvia and Melvyn Wolff Family<br />

Foundation with love and in memory of Leah Grossberg, 2002.3591<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Moses" Brooch, 1987<br />

PVC, photograph, and gold<br />

3 1/4 x 5 3/4 x 3/8 in. (8.3 x 14.6 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2002.3603<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Bouquet" Brooch, 1988<br />

PVC, print, and yellow sapphires<br />

4 x 3 3/4 x 3/4 in. (10.2 x 9.5 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3605<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

Comb, 1989-1990<br />

PVC, print, gilded brass<br />

8 7/8 x 10 1/4 x 2 in. (22.5 x 26 x 5.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3616<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Botticelli Project" Neckpiece, 1990<br />

PVC, print, gilded brass, and 18k gold<br />

11 3/4 x 12 1/16 x 5/16 in. (29.8 x 30.6 x .7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2002.3607.1<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Botticelli Project" Neckpiece, 1990<br />

PVC, print, gilded brass, 18k gold, and Plexiglas<br />

13 1/2 x 11 15/16 x 3/8 in. (34.3 x 30.3 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2002.3607.2<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 2 of 35


Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Botticelli Project" Neckpiece, 1990<br />

PVC, print, gilded brass, and 18k gold<br />

11 1/8 x 12 5/8 x 5/16 in. (28.3 x 32.1 x .8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2002.3607.3<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Borghese" Brooch, 1998<br />

Silver, print, and Plexiglas<br />

2 7/8 x 3 1/16 x 3/8 in. (7.3 x 7.8 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2002.3611<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

"Munster with Stars" Brooch, 1998<br />

Gold-plated silver, photograph, Plexiglas, and white gold<br />

3 3/4 x 4 x 3/16 in. (9.5 x 10.2 x .5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2002.3613<br />

Gijs Bakker, Dutch, born 1942<br />

Waterman Brooch<br />

PVC, photograph, diamonds<br />

Overall: 6 x 2 5/8 x 1/4 in. (15.2 x 6.7 x 0.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:2753-2002<br />

Michael Becker, German, born 1958<br />

"Emo" Brooch, 1987<br />

Yellow gold and white gold<br />

Overall: 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 7/16 in. (3.8 x 3.8 x 1.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of<br />

James S. Ackerman, 2005.199<br />

Michael Becker, German, born 1958<br />

Barcelona I, 1988<br />

750 gold and hematite<br />

1 x 2 3/16 x 1/4 in. (2.5 x 5.6 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3620<br />

Jamie Bennett, <strong>American</strong>, born 1948<br />

"Pattern Fragment #3" Brooch, 1978<br />

Silver, enamel<br />

1 3/4 x 1 11/16 x 1/2 in. (4.4 x 4.3 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3621<br />

Jamie Bennett, <strong>American</strong>, born 1948<br />

"Black Basilica #4" Brooch, 1982-1983<br />

Silver, enamel, copper, and glass<br />

1 3/8 x 2 1/2 x 5/16 in. (3.5 x 6.4 x .8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3622<br />

Jamie Bennett, <strong>American</strong>, born 1948<br />

"Palermo" Brooch from the series Coloratura, 1985<br />

Silver, enamel, and copper<br />

1 1/8 x 4 1/4 x 1/4 in. (2.9 x 10.8 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3623<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 3 of 35


Jamie Bennett, <strong>American</strong>, born 1948<br />

"Black Petrossa" Brooch, 1991<br />

Enamel, copper, and 20k gold<br />

3/4 x 5 x 3/4 in. (1.9 x 12.7 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3624<br />

Jamie Bennett, <strong>American</strong>, born 1948<br />

"Rocaille #13" Brooch, 1992<br />

Enamel, copper, 22k and 14k gold<br />

5 x 2 x 1/2 in. (12.7 x 5.1 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3625<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

"Il Mio Casa" Brooch, 1986<br />

Gold, silver, coral, and bone<br />

3 3/4 x 2 x 1/2 in. (9.5 x 5.1 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3628<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

"Kraft-Versus-Host-Reaction" Brooch, 1986<br />

Gold, silver, and south sea coral<br />

3 5/8 x 6 x 1/2 in. (9.2 x 15.2 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3629<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

Study for "Kraft-Versus-Host-Reaction" Brooch, 1986<br />

Ink and pencil on paper<br />

Sheet: 8 1/2 x 11 1/2 in. (21.6 x 29.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3630<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

"Taugenichts" Brooch, 1987<br />

Gold-plated silver and metal<br />

3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 5/8 in. (8.9 x 8.9 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3631<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

Study for "Taugenichts" Brooch, 1987<br />

Ink and pencil on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 1/2 x 8 3/16 in. (29.2 x 20.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3632<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

"Workingman Hero" Brooch, 1989<br />

Gold, silver, and coral<br />

3 3/4 x 2 7/8 x 1/4 in. (9.5 x 7.3 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in memory of<br />

Edna S. Beron, 2002.3634<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

Study for "Workingman Hero" Brooch, c. 1989<br />

Graphite and ink on mat board<br />

Sheet: 11 3/4 x 8 1/4 in. (29.8 x 21 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in memory of<br />

Hermann Jünger, 2005.200<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Page 4 of 35<br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection


Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

"Yo, Metteur en Scene" Brooch<br />

"(I am the Director)" Brooch, 1992<br />

Gold, silver, coral, and diamonds<br />

3 1/2 x 3 3/4 x 1/2 in. (8.9 x 9.5 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3635<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

"René Descartes" Ring, 1998<br />

Mirrored glass, coral, and gold<br />

Overall: 1 3/4 x 1 3/8 x 1 in. (4.4 x 3.5 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3638<br />

Manfred Bischoff, German, born 1947<br />

Study for "René Descartes" Ring, 1998<br />

Paper, watercolor, and ink<br />

Sheet: 14 x 7 in. (35.6 x 17.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3639<br />

Liv Blåvarp, Norwegian, born 1956<br />

Neckpiece, 1993<br />

Birchwood, wood stain, and nylon cord<br />

5 x 2 x 2 1/2 in. (12.7 x 5.1 x 6.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the <strong>Art</strong> Colony Association, Inc., 2002.3640<br />

Peter Blodgett, <strong>American</strong>, 1935 - 2000/2001<br />

Bracelet, 1976<br />

Black plated nickel silver, silver plated brass, and acrylic<br />

2 5/8 x 2 x 2 1/2 in. (6.7 x 5.1 x 6.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of friends of Sandie Zilker in honor of her 30<br />

years of teaching at the Glassell School of <strong>Art</strong>, 2002.3642<br />

Marta Breis, Spanish, born 1953<br />

Brooch, 1989<br />

Plastics, copper alloy, steel, thread, natural silk, paint, and bamboo<br />

18 x 6 x 5/8 in. (45.7 x 15.2 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Marlys Tokerud, 2002.3646<br />

Marta Breis, Spanish, born 1953<br />

Brooch, 1989<br />

Plastics, copper alloy, steel, thread, natural silk, paint, and bamboo<br />

5 1/2 x 8 5/8 x 1/2 in. (14 x 21.9 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3647<br />

Caroline Broadhead, British, born 1950<br />

Necklace, 1983<br />

Nylon monofilament and dye<br />

Overall: 3 x 11 1/2 dia. in. (7.6 x 29.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Barbara Harburg, 2002.3648<br />

Caroline Broadhead, British, born 1950<br />

Sleeve, 1983<br />

Nylon monofilament and dye<br />

4 x 4 x 8 in. (10.2 x 10.2 x 20.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of friends of Sandie Zilker in honor of her 30<br />

years of teaching at the Glassell School of <strong>Art</strong>, 2002.3649<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 5 of 35


Bussi Buhs, German, born 1940<br />

"Snow of Yesterday" Collar, 1995<br />

Nylon, polypropylene, old medallions<br />

Overall: 2 x 17 dia. in. (5.1 x 43.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3658<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Ring, 1970<br />

Gold and perspex acrylic<br />

7/8 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 in. (2.2 x 3.8 x 3.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3661<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Ring, 1970<br />

Gold, perspex, and acrylic<br />

1 3/4 x 3/4 x 1 1/4 in. (4.4 x 1.9 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1082-2006<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Brooch, 1972<br />

White and yellow gold<br />

2 1/4 x 2 1/2 x 1/2 in. (5.7 x 6.4 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3662<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Ring, 1972<br />

Gold and perspex acrylic<br />

1 1/8 x 1 1/2 x 1 3/4 in. (2.9 x 3.8 x 4.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3663<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Construction, 1973<br />

Plexiglas, gold, white gold, perspex, acrylic, graphite, colored pencil, and typeset on<br />

paper<br />

Overall: 16 13/16 x 16 3/4 x 2 in. (42.7 x 42.5 x 5.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1092-2006<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Brooch from the Container Series, 1974<br />

Silver, brass, gold, and copper alloys<br />

Overall (Brooch): 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 x 3/4 in. (5.7 x 8.3 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Frame: 3/4 x 8 5/16 x 11 3/4 in. (1.9 x 21.1 x 29.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3664<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Study for Brooch from the Container Series, 1974<br />

Pencil and colored pencil on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 13/16 x 8 1/4 in. (30 x 21 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3665<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Study for Brooch, 1974<br />

Pencil, colored pencil, paper cutouts on paper<br />

Sheet: 13 3/4 x 8 1/4 in. (34.9 x 21 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3666<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 6 of 35


Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Metal Experiments for Brooch, 1974<br />

Metal experiments and pencil on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 3/4 x 8 1/4 in. (29.8 x 21 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3667<br />

Claus Bury, German, born 1946<br />

Brooch, 1977<br />

Silver, gold, and copper alloys<br />

2 1/2 x 1 3/4 x 3/4 in. (6.4 x 4.4 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3668<br />

Pierre Cavalan, French, born 1954<br />

"Air" Neckpiece, 1993<br />

Enamel, souvenir tacks, and mixed media<br />

15 1/4 x 10 x 3/8 in. (38.7 x 25.4 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3673<br />

Pierre Cavalan, French, born 1954<br />

"Fin de Siècle" Brooch, 1995<br />

Found objects, silver, enamel, and mixed media<br />

6 1/2 x 4 x 3/4 in. (16.5 x 10.2 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3674.1<br />

Pierre Cavalan, French, born 1954<br />

"Fin de Siècle" Brooch, 1995<br />

Found objects, enamel, and mixed media<br />

7 x 4 x 1/2 in. (17.8 x 10.2 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3674.2<br />

Pierre Cavalan, French, born 1954<br />

"Fin de Siècle" Brooch, 1995<br />

Found objects and mixed media<br />

6 x 3 3/4 x 1/4 in. (15.2 x 9.5 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3674.3<br />

Anton Cepka, Slovakian, born 1936<br />

Brooch, 1963<br />

Silver<br />

1 11/16 x 2 5/16 x 1/4 in. (4.3 x 5.9 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3675<br />

Anton Cepka, Slovakian, born 1936<br />

Brooch, 1975<br />

Metal, slate, plastic, glass, and paint<br />

3 x 5 1/2 x 1/2 in. (7.6 x 14 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3676<br />

Peter Chang, British, born 1944<br />

Bracelet, 1991<br />

Acrylic, gold leaf, resin, and PVC<br />

2 1/2 x 6 1/2 in. diameter (6.4 x 16.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3684<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 7 of 35


Peter Chang, British, born 1944<br />

Bracelet, 1992<br />

Acrylic, PVC, and found objects<br />

8 1/2 x 8 1/2 x 2 in. (21.6 x 21.6 x 5.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3685<br />

Peter Chang, British, born 1944<br />

Bracelet, 1992<br />

Resin, acrylic, and PVC<br />

6 3/8 x 6 1/4 x 2 3/4 in. (16.2 x 15.9 x 7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Cecily E. Horton and the Omena Fund in<br />

honor of Heather Horton Flynn, 2002.3686<br />

Peter Chang, British, born 1944<br />

Untitled study for bracelets, c.1992<br />

Graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 3/4 x 8 1/8 in. (29.8 x 20.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist, 2003.683<br />

Sharon Church, <strong>American</strong>, born 1948<br />

"Envy" Neckpiece, 1997<br />

Sterling silver, antler and diamonds<br />

8 5/16 x 28 1/4 in. (21.1 x 71.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2005.196<br />

Ken Cory, <strong>American</strong>, 1943 - 1994<br />

Les LePere, <strong>American</strong>, born 1946<br />

"Blimp" Wall piece, 1971<br />

Enamel on copper, plexiglass, colored pencil, ink<br />

4 1/4 x 4 7/16 x 1 in. (10.8 x 11.3 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3692<br />

Ken Cory, <strong>American</strong>, 1943 - 1994<br />

"Squash Blossom" Necklace, 1974<br />

Shells, light bulbs, cast bronze, leather, sterling silver, copper, found objects<br />

Overall: 15 3/4 x 4 x 5/8 in. (40 x 10.2 x 1.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1196-2006<br />

Ramón Puig Cuyàs, Spanish, born 1953<br />

"Sirena" Brooch, 1987<br />

Silver, steel, acrylic, and acrylic paint<br />

2 x 5 3/8 x 1/4 in. (5.1 x 13.7 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3694<br />

Ramón Puig Cuyàs, Spanish, born 1953<br />

"L'Ambraçada" Brooch, 1989<br />

Silver, steel, acrylic, and acrylic paint<br />

4 x 3 7/8 x 1/2 in. (10.2 x 9.8 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3695<br />

Ramón Puig Cuyàs, Spanish, born 1953<br />

Brooch<br />

From the series Archipelagos, 1999<br />

Silver, bronze, pebble, plastic, glass, shell, and mother-of-pearl<br />

Overall: 2 7/8 x 2 3/4 x 1/2 in. (7.4 x 7 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2005.2152<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 8 of 35


Johanna Dahm, Swiss, born 1947<br />

Bewegte Linie (Moving Line)<br />

Designed 1983, made 1992<br />

Anodized aluminium and steel wire (with wooden box)<br />

Overall (Pins in Storage Box): 14 3/16 x 14 3/16 x 1 3/16 in. (36 x 36 x 3 cm)<br />

Overall (.A): 3/8 x 7 x 5/16 in. (1 x 17.8 x 0.8 cm)<br />

Overall (.B): 1/2 x 7 x 5/16 in. (1.3 x 17.8 x 0.8 cm)<br />

Overall (.C): 1 x 7 3/16 x 5/16 in. (2.5 x 18.3 x 0.8 cm)<br />

Overall (.D): 1 x 7 1/16 x 5/16 in. (2.5 x 17.9 x 0.8 cm)<br />

Overall (.E): 1 1/8 x 7 1/8 x 3/4 in. (2.9 x 18.1 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3698.A-.H<br />

Edward De Large, British, active U.S.A. and England, born 1949<br />

Brooch, 1982<br />

Silver and titanium<br />

7 7/8 x 2 3/16 x 3/16 in. (20 x 5.6 x .5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3706<br />

Lam De Wolf, Dutch, born 1949<br />

Necklace from the Wearable Objects series, 1981-1982<br />

1982<br />

Cotton, willow, paint<br />

Overall: 12 1/2 x 12 1/2 x 2 3/8 in. (31.8 x 31.8 x 6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Arch and Stella Rowan Foundation, Inc.,<br />

2002.3709<br />

Lam De Wolf, Dutch, born 1949<br />

Necklace from the Wearables series, 1983<br />

Halsschumck, 1983<br />

Halsschmuck<br />

Silk and paint<br />

Overall: 7 1/2 x 10 x 2 3/4 in. (19.1 x 25.4 x 7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of friends of Barbara Paull in honor of her<br />

birthday, 2002.3710<br />

Paul Derrez, Dutch, born 1950<br />

Necklace, 1982<br />

Plastic, steel<br />

Overall: 15 x 15 x 4 in. (38.1 x 38.1 x 10.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Jack and Susan Lapin, 2002.3715<br />

Lam De Wolf, Dutch, born 1949<br />

Headdress, 1984<br />

From the Headdresses series, 1984<br />

Cotton, wood and paint<br />

11 x 16 x 17 3/4 in. (27.9 x 40.6 x 45.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3724<br />

Georg Dobler, German, born 1952<br />

"Salvatore" Brooch, 1985<br />

Steel wire and acrylic lacquer<br />

5 x 6 1/2 x 1/4 in. (12.7 x 16.5 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3720<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 9 of 35


Georg Dobler, German, born 1952<br />

Brooch, 1985<br />

Steel, acrylic lacquer<br />

Overall: 6 x 8 x 2 in. (15.2 x 20.3 x 5.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Design<br />

Council, 2004<br />

2002.3722<br />

Georg Dobler, German, born 1952<br />

"Atomic Energy" Brooch, 1988<br />

Steel wire, black chrome<br />

Overall: 3 1/2 x 5 x 2 1/2 in. (8.9 x 12.7 x 6.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Susan Vaughan Foundation, 2002.3725<br />

Georg Dobler, German, born 1952<br />

Brooch, 1997<br />

525/silver, oxidized surface, amethyst<br />

Overall: 3 x 1 3/4 x 1 1/4 in. (7.6 x 4.4 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English and the artist,<br />

2005.2135<br />

Georg Dobler, German, born 1952<br />

Brooch, 1999<br />

Amethyst and silver<br />

3 3/8 x 3 1/2 x 3/8 in. (8.6 x 8.9 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3728<br />

Georg Dobler, German, born 1952<br />

Earrings, c. 1999<br />

525/silver, oxidized surface<br />

Overall (.A): 2 x 1 1/4 x 1 in. (5.1 x 3.2 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Overall (.B): 2 1/8 x 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 in. (5.3 x 3.2 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

2005.2133.A,.B<br />

Robert Ebendorf, <strong>American</strong>, born 1938<br />

Brooch, 1974<br />

From the series Colored Smoke Machine Brooches<br />

Silver, Plexiglas, gold-plated bronze, and baroque pearl<br />

3 3/4 x 2 9/16 x 9/16 in. (9.5 x 6.5 x 1.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3730<br />

Eva Eisler, Czech, born 1952<br />

Brooch, 1990<br />

From the Tension Series<br />

Sterling silver<br />

3 x 4 x 1 in. (7.6 x 10.2 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Anned Muse, 2002.3737<br />

Eva Eisler, Czech, born 1952<br />

Brooch, 1991<br />

From the Tension Series<br />

Sterling silver, stainless steel<br />

1 1/2 x 5 x 1 in. (3.8 x 12.7 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3738<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 10 of 35


Arline Fisch, <strong>American</strong>, born 1931<br />

Necklace, 1985-1986<br />

Fine silver, 18k gold, sterling silver<br />

14 1/2 x 5 7/8 x 2 7/8 in. (36.8 x 14.9 x 7.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Ellie and Jon Totz, 2002.3742<br />

Warwick Freeman, New Zealand, born 1953<br />

"Paua Layer" Bracelet, 1989<br />

Abalone (Paua)<br />

1 3/4 x 3 3/4 in. diameter (4.4 x 9.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3748<br />

Donald Friedlich, <strong>American</strong>, born 1954<br />

"Erosion Series" Brooch, 1984<br />

18k gold, sterling silver, titanium, slate, and nickel<br />

1 5/16 x 1 13/16 x 1/4 in. (3.3 x 4.6 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3752<br />

Max Fröhlich, Swiss, 1908 - 1997<br />

"Bijou Barbare" Ring, 1984<br />

Silver alloy<br />

1 5/16 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/8 in. (3.3 x 3.5 x 2.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3757<br />

Max Fröhlich, Swiss, 1908 - 1997<br />

"Bijou Barbare" Bracelet, 1984<br />

Silver alloy<br />

1 1/4 x 3 3/8 in. diameter (3.2 x 8.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3758<br />

Kyoko Fukuchi, Japanese, born 1946<br />

"Echo of Time Past" Brooch, 2000<br />

Washi paper and silver<br />

Overall: 2 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 1/8 in. (7 x 7 x 0.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3764<br />

Kyoko Fukuchi, Japanese, born 1946<br />

"Echo of Time Past" Brooch, 2000<br />

Washi paper, ink, silver<br />

Overall: 2 7/8 x 2 7/8 x 1/16 in. (7.3 x 7.3 x 0.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3765<br />

Kyoko Fukuchi, Japanese, born 1946<br />

Brooch, 2001<br />

Japanese lacquer (urushi), lead, wood, and silver<br />

2 1/4 x 4 3/8 x 5/8 in. (5.7 x 11.1 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3763<br />

Elizabeth Garrison, <strong>American</strong>, born 1952<br />

"Dream of the Lunar Eclipse #3" Necklace, 1984<br />

Silver, copper, mother-of-pearl, enamel, and found objects<br />

Overall: 12 1/2 x 3 3/4 x 5/8 in. (31.8 x 9.5 x 1.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1210-2006<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Page 11 of 35<br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection


Elizabeth Garrison, <strong>American</strong>, born 1952<br />

Moon #4 Brooch, 1987<br />

Silver, copper, altered found objects, mother-of-pearl, and enamel<br />

2 7/8 x 1 1/4 x 1/4 in. (7.3 x 3.2 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3769<br />

Elizabeth Garrison, <strong>American</strong>, born 1952<br />

The Swimmer of Dreams Brooch, 1988<br />

Fine and sterling silver, enamel, copper, 14k gold, ebony, and fossil ivory<br />

3 3/4 x 1 1/4 x 1/4 in. (9.5 x 3.2 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3771<br />

Thomas Gentille, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

Untitled Brooch, c. 1977-1979<br />

Bronze, ebony, 14k and 18k yellow gold<br />

1/2 x 2 3/4 in. diameter (1.3 x 7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3772<br />

Thomas Gentille, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

Brooch, 1991<br />

Eggshell inlay, wood<br />

Overall: 2 3/8 x 2 3/4 x 1 in. (6 x 7 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Ellen English, 2002.3773<br />

Toni Goessler-Snyder, German, active U.S.A., 1942 - 1982<br />

Brooch or Pendant, 1974<br />

Gold, sterling silver, and Lucite<br />

3 1/2 x 2 3/4 x 5/8 in. (8.9 x 7 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3775<br />

Toni Goessler-Snyder, German, active U.S.A., 1942 - 1982<br />

Bracelet, 1979<br />

24k gold, sterling silver, chalcedony, and garnet<br />

1 5/8 x 7 15/16 x 3/16 in. (4.1 x 20.2 x .5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3782<br />

Lisa Gralnick, <strong>American</strong>, born 1956<br />

Brooch, 1988<br />

Acrylic<br />

1 1/4 x 5 x 3/4 in. (3.2 x 12.7 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3783<br />

Lisa Gralnick, <strong>American</strong>, born 1956<br />

Brooch, 1989 - 1990<br />

Acrylic and gold<br />

1/2 x 3 1/2 in. diameter (1.3 x 8.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3784<br />

Lisa Gralnick, <strong>American</strong>, born 1956<br />

Anti-Gravity Neckpiece #6, c.1992-1993<br />

Sterling silver, and 18k gold<br />

17 7/8 x 2 1/2 x 1 in. (45.4 x 6.4 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3785<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Page 12 of 35<br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection


Gary S. Griffin, <strong>American</strong>, born 1945<br />

Collar in Progressive Base .1875 and .3125, 1976<br />

Aluminum, brass, acrylic, and nylon<br />

14 3/4 x 9 1/2 x 3/4 in. (37.5 x 24.1 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Jeffrey A. Shankman, 2002.3790.A,.B<br />

Laurie Hall, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

"No. 2 Please" Necklace, 1988<br />

Bronze, #2 pencils, colorcore, bass wood<br />

Overall: 16 x 4 3/4 x 3/4 in. (40.6 x 12.1 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3791<br />

William Harper, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

"Pagan Baby #6: The Scarab" Brooch, 1977<br />

14, 18, and 24k gold, silver, shell, freshwater pearl, cloisonee enamel, and fine silver<br />

2 11/16 x 3 5/16 x 1/2 in. (6.8 x 8.4 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3800<br />

William Harper, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

"Pagan Baby #12: The Green Scarab" Brooch, 1978<br />

14 and 24k gold, silver, bronze, scarab shell, pearls, bone, glass, cloisonné enamel, fine<br />

gold, and fine silver<br />

3 7/8 x 1 1/4 x 3/4 in. (9.8 x 3.2 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3801<br />

William Harper, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

Barbarian Bracelet #2, 1980<br />

Sterling silver, 24K gold, cloisonné enamel, and mercury gilding<br />

Overall: 1 x 5 3/4 in. (2.5 x 14.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3805<br />

Marion Herbst, Dutch, 1944 - 1995<br />

Françoise van den Bosch, Dutch, 1944 - 1977<br />

Berend Peter Hogen Esch, Dutch, b. 1945<br />

Onno Boekhoudt, Dutch, 1944-2002<br />

Karel Niehorster, Dutch, 1932 - 2003<br />

BOE Box, 1974<br />

Plywood, paper, string, and metal<br />

Overall: 16 11/16 x 16 5/8 x 2 5/8 in. (42.4 x 42.2 x 6.7 cm)<br />

Please refer to the paper file for dimensions, marks, and more information.<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Mark and Debra Grierson, 2002.3813<br />

Therese Hilbert, Swiss, active Germany, born 1948<br />

Brooch, 1985<br />

Silver and steel<br />

5 x 5 3/4 x 1 1/4 in. (12.7 x 14.6 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3822<br />

Yasuki Hiramatsu, Japanese, born 1926<br />

Crown, c. 1993<br />

24k gold and aluminum<br />

11 x 8 1/2 x 7 in. (27.9 x 21.6 x 17.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3824<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 13 of 35


Ron Ho, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

"Dog Stars" Pendant, 1985<br />

African gold weight, bronze Afghan fragment, sterling silver, and 1930 reproduction of<br />

Pre-Columbian dog beads<br />

10 1/2 x 6 x 1 in. (26.7 x 15.2 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3826<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Necklace, 1977<br />

Gold, silver, and stones<br />

Overall: 8 1/2 x 4 1/4 x 1/2 in. (21.6 x 10.8 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1093-2006<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Brooch, 1989<br />

Gold and silver<br />

1/4 x 2 1/16 in. diameter (.6 x 5.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3841<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Study for Brooches, 1990<br />

Ink on paper<br />

Sheet: 10 1/2 x 7 7/8 in. (26.7 x 20.1 cm)<br />

Mat: 19 3/4 x 15 11/16 in. (50.2 x 39.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2004.1696<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Study for Brooches, 1990<br />

Watercolor and graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 11/16 x 8 1/4 in. (29.7 x 21 cm)<br />

Mat: 19 3/4 x 15 11/16 in. (50.2 x 39.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2004.1698<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Study for Brooches, 1992<br />

Watercolor and graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 5 3/4 x 3 15/16 in. (14.6 x 10 cm)<br />

Mat: 19 3/4 x 15 11/16 in. (50.2 x 39.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2004.1697.1<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Study for Brooches, 1994<br />

Ink, graphite, crayon and watercolor on paper<br />

Sheet: 13 9/16 x 10 in. (34.4 x 25.4 cm)<br />

Mount: 19 3/4 x 12 in. (50.2 x 30.5 cm)<br />

Mat: 19 3/4 x 15 11/16 in. (50.2 x 39.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2004.1699<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Study for Brooches, 1994<br />

Watercolor on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 7/8 x 9 13/16 in. (30.2 x 24.9 cm)<br />

Mat: 19 3/4 x 15 11/16 in. (50.2 x 39.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2004.1700.1<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Page 14 of 35<br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection


Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Ring, 1995<br />

Gold, opal, tourmaline, hematite, ruby, emerald, and chrysopase<br />

1 1/4 x 1 3/16 x 1 1/4 in. (3.2 x 3 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.3843<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Study for Brooches, 1995<br />

Watercolor and ink on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 7/8 x 8 3/4 in. (30.2 x 22.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2004.1694<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Brooch, 1998<br />

20k gold<br />

Overall: 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 1/4 in. (4.4 x 4.4 x 0.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Schissler Foundation, 2002.3844<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Ivory Pendant, 1999<br />

Ivory, wire, and black enamel<br />

12 1/2 x 2 1/8 x 5/16 in. (31.8 x 5.4 x .8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3845<br />

Hermann Jünger, German, 1928 - 2005<br />

Study for Brooches, n.d.<br />

Watercolor and graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 5/8 x 8 1/4 in. (29.5 x 21 cm)<br />

Mat: 19 3/4 x 15 11/16 in. (50.2 x 39.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2004.1695<br />

Sieglinde Karl-Spence, Australian, born Germany, 1943<br />

Wood turned by: Mark Bishop, Australian, birthdate unknown<br />

Poem by: Hazel Smith, Australian, birthdate unknown<br />

Bracelet, 1990<br />

Huon pine and oil crayon<br />

Overall: 1/2 x 5 7/16 dia. in. (1.3 x 13.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Pam, Kim, and Lisa Glosserman, 2002.3846<br />

Itoh Kazuhiro, Japanese, 1948 - c. 2002<br />

Brooch, 1979<br />

Stone<br />

2 5/8 x 2 3/8 x 1/2 in. (6.7 x 6 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3833<br />

Itoh Kazuhiro, Japanese, 1948 - c. 2002<br />

Brooch, 1982<br />

Stone<br />

1/2 x 5 1/4 x 1/2 in. (1.3 x 13.3 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3834<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 15 of 35


Betsy King, <strong>American</strong>, born 1953<br />

"Trouble in Paradise" Brooch, 1989<br />

Sterling silver, brass, photograph, copper, Plexiglas, and plastic<br />

4 x 3 5/8 x 1/2 in. (10.2 x 9.2 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3850<br />

Betsy King, <strong>American</strong>, born 1953<br />

"Raised on Promises" Brooch, 1990<br />

Sterling silver, copper, bronze, plexiglass, silver, etched brass, and photograph<br />

3 3/4 x 4 1/2 x 1/2 in. (9.5 x 11.4 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3851<br />

Betsy King, <strong>American</strong>, born 1953<br />

"Bound To Be Back" Brooch, 1992<br />

Sterling silver, paper, and brass<br />

3 x 5 1/8 x 3/4 in. (7.6 x 13 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3853<br />

Esther Knobel, Israeli, born Poland, 1949<br />

"Warrior" (Macabi) Brooch, 1984<br />

Tin can, acrylic paint, elastic band<br />

Overall: 5 7/8 x 5 x 1/4 in. (14.9 x 12.7 x 0.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Marilyn Levitch Hassid in honor of the 60th<br />

birthday of her sister, Barbara Paull, 2002.3861<br />

Esther Knobel, Israeli, born Poland, 1949<br />

"Immigrants" Brooch, 1991<br />

Nickel, silver, recycled tin can, alloy, and elastic rubber band<br />

4 x 5 1/8 x 5/8 in. (10.2 x 13 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3862<br />

Friedrick Knupper, German, 1947 - 1987<br />

Brooch, 1981<br />

Steel and paint<br />

2 5/16 x 2 3/8 x 1/2 in. (5.9 x 6 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3770<br />

Friedrick Knupper, German, 1947 - 1987<br />

Neckpiece, 1985<br />

Steel and paint<br />

9 1/2 x 9 x 1 1/8 in. (24.1 x 22.9 x 2.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3867<br />

Jaroslav Kodejš, Czech, born 1938<br />

Pendant, 1969<br />

Silver, crystal glass<br />

Overall: 10 1/4 x 5 3/8 x 7/8 in. (26 x 13.7 x 2.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3868<br />

Jaroslav Kodejš, Czech, born 1938<br />

Brooch, 1969-1970<br />

Glass and silver<br />

Overall: 2 3/16 x 2 3/16 x 3/4 in. (5.6 x 5.6 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2005.2136<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 16 of 35


Robin Kranitzky, <strong>American</strong>, born 1956<br />

Kim Overstreet, <strong>American</strong>, born 1955<br />

"Pressures of Life" Brooch #1506, 1989<br />

Silver, nickel silver, copper, micarta, glass beads, postcard fragments, found objects,<br />

Mylar, and balsa wood<br />

3 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 1/2 in. (8.9 x 6.4 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3871<br />

Robin Kranitzky, <strong>American</strong>, born 1956<br />

Kim Overstreet, <strong>American</strong>, born 1955<br />

"Notions" Brooch #1560, 1990<br />

Copper, brass, micarta, polymer clay, silver, lead foil, scratch-board, postcard<br />

fragments, found objects, Mylar, and balsa wood<br />

2 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 1 1/4 in. (7 x 7 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3874<br />

Robin Kranitzky, <strong>American</strong>, born 1956<br />

Kim Overstreet, <strong>American</strong>, born 1955<br />

"Sustain" Brooch #1613, 1992<br />

Brass, polymer clay, silver, acrylic, micarta, sand, postcard fragments, found objects,<br />

Mylar, and balsa wood<br />

3 x 2 1/4 x 1 3/8 in. (7.6 x 5.7 x 3.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3879<br />

Robin Kranitzky, <strong>American</strong>, born 1956<br />

Kim Overstreet, <strong>American</strong>, born 1955<br />

"Starmaker" Brooch #1626, 1993<br />

Nickel silver, acrylic, brass, paper, egg shell, postcard fragments, found objects, Mylar,<br />

and balsa wood<br />

4 1/2 x 1 3/4 x 1 in. (11.4 x 4.4 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3880<br />

Robin Kranitzky, <strong>American</strong>, born 1956<br />

Kim Overstreet, <strong>American</strong>, born 1955<br />

"Profile of a Woman" Brooch #1681, 1997<br />

Micarta, polymer clay, copper leaf, faux gold leaf, glass beads, brass, copper, silver,<br />

postcard fragments, found objects, Mylar, and balsa wood<br />

4 3/8 x 3 x 1 in. (11.1 x 7.6 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3881<br />

Daniel Kruger, South African, born 1951<br />

Necklace, 1983<br />

Silver<br />

9 1/2 x 7 1/4 x 1 1/8 in. (24.1 x 18.4 x 2.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3882<br />

Otto Künzli, Swiss, born 1948<br />

"Gold Makes Blind" Armpiece, designed 1980, made 2002<br />

Rubber and gold<br />

1/2 x 3 1/8 in. diameter (1.3 x 7.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3887<br />

Otto Künzli, Swiss, born 1948<br />

Fragment Necklace, 1986<br />

PVC, gold leaf, steel<br />

Overall: 15 1/2 x 10 3/4 x 1 1/4 in. (39.4 x 27.3 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Dr. Joe Atlas, 2002.3896<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 17 of 35


Otto Künzli, Swiss, born 1948<br />

"Crown" Brooch and Box, 1988<br />

Gold, stainless steel, paper, and silk<br />

.A, Crown: 3/8 x 3/8 x 3/8 in. (1 x 1 x 1 cm)<br />

.B, Box: 2 1/8 x 3 1/8 x 3 1/8 in. (5.4 x 7.9 x 7.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3897.A,.B<br />

Stanley Lechtzin, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

Brooch 63-B, 1966<br />

Sterling silver, tourmaline crystal, and pearl<br />

Overall: 2 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 1/2 in. (7 x 8.9 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3905<br />

Stanley Lechtzin, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

Brooch 90-B, 1967<br />

14k gold, quartz, baroque pearls, and silver<br />

3 1/4 x 2 1/2 x 1 3/8 in. (8.3 x 6.4 x 3.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3907<br />

Stanley Lechtzin, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

Brooch 96-B, 1967<br />

Sterling silver and rhodochrosite quartz<br />

2 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 1 1/4 in. (6.4 x 8.9 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3908<br />

Stanley Lechtzin, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

Brooch 97-B, 1967<br />

Gold plated sterling silver, amythest, blue boroque pearls<br />

Overall: 3 1/2 x 4 x 1 in. (8.9 x 10.2 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1081-2006<br />

Stanley Lechtzin, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

Brooch 64-B3, 1969<br />

Silver-gilt, mica, and baroque pearls<br />

Overall: 4 1/4 x 3 1/2 x 1 3/4 in. (10.8 x 8.9 x 4.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Mr. and Mrs. John W. Mecom Jr., by<br />

exchange, 2002.3913<br />

Stanley Lechtzin, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

Brooch 57-C, 1969<br />

Silver-gilt, quartz, and watermelon tourmaline quartz<br />

5 x 3 7/8 x 2 in. (12.7 x 9.8 x 5.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3906<br />

Stanley Lechtzin, <strong>American</strong>, born 1936<br />

"Torque 22-D" Neckpiece, 1971<br />

Sterling silver and polyester resin<br />

9 x 9 1/2 x 2 1/2 in. (22.9 x 24.1 x 6.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3916<br />

Keith A. Lewis, <strong>American</strong>, born 1959<br />

"Another Haruspex" Brooch, c. 1995<br />

Sterling silver, gold plate, liver-of-sulpher, and plastic<br />

3 3/8 x 2 1/4 x 1 1/8 in. (8.6 x 5.7 x 2.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3919<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 18 of 35


Nel Linssen, Dutch, born 1935<br />

Necklace and Box, 1995<br />

Paper and elastic<br />

Overall (Necklace): 1 3/4 x 7 1/4 dia. in. (4.4 x 18.4 cm)<br />

Overall (Box): 2 x 6 x 8 in. (5.1 x 15.2 x 20.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of John and Jean Geresi, 2002.3922.A,.B<br />

Fritz Maierhofer, Austrian, born 1941<br />

Brooch, 1972<br />

Acrylic, silver, and oil pencil<br />

3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 3/8 in. (8.9 x 8.9 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3929<br />

Fritz Maierhofer, Austrian, born 1941<br />

Brooch, 1972<br />

Acrylic, silver, and oil pencil<br />

3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 3/8 in. (8.9 x 8.9 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3931<br />

Carlier Makigawa, Australian, born 1952<br />

"Burning Building" Brooch, 1989<br />

Stainless steel, papier maché, lacquer, graphite, 23k gold leaf, and silver<br />

4 1/2 x 1 15/16 x 1 in. (11.5 x 5 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3938<br />

Carlier Makigawa, Australian, born 1952<br />

Studies for Brooches, 1989<br />

Graphite on paper<br />

Overall: 10 15/16 x 8 1/8 in. (27.8 x 20.7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist, 2004.1172<br />

Carlier Makigawa, Australian, born 1952<br />

Brooch, 1993<br />

Monel, sterling silver, and 18k gold<br />

5 x 1 7/8 x 1 3/16 in. (12.7 x 4.8 x 3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3939<br />

Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

"Berkeley" Brooch, 1967<br />

24k gold<br />

1 3/8 x 1 1/8 x 1/4 in. (3.5 x 2.9 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3941<br />

Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

Designs for the "Energy" Series, 1975-1980<br />

Graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 9 1/2 x 13 in. (24.1 x 33 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist, 2003.422<br />

Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

"Energy" Brooch, 1979<br />

18k white gold and serpentine marble<br />

1 x 2 1/8 x 3/8 in. (2.5 x 5.4 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3942<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 19 of 35


Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

"Energy" Brooch, 1989<br />

18k white gold and sterling silver<br />

2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 3/16 in. (5.7 x 5.7 x .5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3943<br />

Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

Untitled studies for brooches, 1990<br />

Graphite on paper<br />

Overall: 13 11/16 x 19 5/8 x 1/16 in. (34.8 x 49.8 x 0.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist, 2003.420<br />

Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

"Aquila" Brooch, 1990<br />

20k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, and marble<br />

1 1/8 x 1 1/4 x 1/2in. (2.9 x 3.2 x 1.3cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3944<br />

Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

"Narciso" Brooch, 1996<br />

20k yellow gold and 18k pink gold<br />

Overall: 1 15/16 x 2 x 1/2 in. (5 x 5.1 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1077-2006<br />

Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

"Occhio" Brooch, 2003<br />

Silver and white gold<br />

Overall: 1 7/8 x 2 1/8 x 1 in. (4.8 x 5.3 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1078-2006<br />

Bruno Martinazzi, Italian, born 1923<br />

"Goldfinger" Bracelet, 2003<br />

Yellow gold and white gold<br />

Overall: 2 1/2 x 3 1/8 x 2 in. (6.4 x 7.9 x 5.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1068-2006<br />

Falko Marx, German, born 1941<br />

"La Belle et la Bete" Necklace, 1976<br />

Porcelain, 18k and 22k gold, sapphire, and rubies<br />

14 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 7/8 in. (3.8 x 37.5 x 2.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3946<br />

Falko Marx, German, born 1941<br />

"Pious" Bracelet, 1976<br />

18k gold, porcelain, water, opals, diamonds, rubies, and sapphires<br />

Overall: 2 1/2 x 2 3/8 x 2 3/8 in. (6.4 x 6.1 x 6.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1066-2006<br />

Falko Marx, German, born 1941<br />

Sardine Brooch, 1988<br />

Sapphires, diamonds, found objects, and gold<br />

1 1/2 x 2 1/4 x 1/4 in. (3.8 x 5.7 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3947<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 20 of 35


Richard Mawdsley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1945<br />

"Camera" Necklace, 1971<br />

Sterling silver, amythest, pearl<br />

Overall: 14 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 9/16 in. (1.4 x 6.4 x 36.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.3950<br />

Richard Mawdsley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1945<br />

"The Pequod" Necklace, 1971<br />

Sterling silver, green onyx, carnelian<br />

Overall: 18 x 3 x 3/4 in. (45.7 x 7.6 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the estate of Jack T. McCann, 2002.3951<br />

Richard Mawdsley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1945<br />

"Headdress #5" Pendant and Necklace, 1984<br />

18k gold, titanium, tantilium, and garnet<br />

15 x 4 1/2 x 5/8 in. (38.1 x 11.4 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3952<br />

Bruce Metcalf, <strong>American</strong>, born 1949<br />

Brooch with Stand, 1977<br />

Silver, Plexiglas, brass, pen and ink, paint, and commercial chain<br />

.A, Brooch: 4 1/2 x 4 x 1 1/2 in. (11.4 x 10.2 x 3.8 cm)<br />

.B, Stand: 6 3/4 x 2 1/8 in. (17.1 x 5.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3955.A,.B<br />

Bruce Metcalf, <strong>American</strong>, born 1949<br />

"Bagman" Brooch, 1987<br />

Sterling silver, Plexiglas, Prismacolor pencil, and Mylar<br />

3 x 2 3/8 x 3/4 in. (7.6 x 6 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3960<br />

Bruce Metcalf, <strong>American</strong>, born 1949<br />

Wood Neckpiece #7, 1992<br />

Maple, cherry, oak, walnut, pine, rosewood, cork, glass eye, plastic teeth, tagua nut,<br />

brass, cord, 23k gold leaf, and paint<br />

Overall: 15 x 10 x 1 3/4 in. (38.1 x 25.4 x 4.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Alice C. Simkins, 2002.3963<br />

Bruce Metcalf, <strong>American</strong>, born 1949<br />

Wood Brooch #109, 1995<br />

23k gold leaf, paint, maple wood, copper, and brass<br />

4 3/8 x 2 x 3/4 in. (11.1 x 5.1 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3964<br />

Bruce Metcalf, <strong>American</strong>, born 1949<br />

"Figure Pin #132" Brooch and Stand, 1996<br />

23k gold leaf, paint, maple, brass, copper, micarta, and steel<br />

Overall (Brooch): 4 3/8 x 4 7/8 x 1 1/4 in. (11.1 x 12.4 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Overall (Stand): 5 1/2 x 2 7/8 x 2 7/8 in. (14 x 7.3 x 7.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the estate of Jack T. McCann, 2002.3965.A,.B<br />

Bruce Metcalf, <strong>American</strong>, born 1949<br />

Study for several pieces including "Wood Brooch #109", 1999<br />

Graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 10 5/8 x 8 1/8 in. (26.9 x 20.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist, 2005.209.A,.B<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 21 of 35


Matsukata Miye, Japanese, 1922-1981<br />

1971<br />

24k gold, sterling silver, and Mayan bone artifact<br />

14 1/2 x 1 5/8 x 7/16 in. (36.8 x 4.1 x 1.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3948.A,.B<br />

Walter Kelley Morris, <strong>American</strong>, born 1945<br />

"Flasher" Brooch, 1976<br />

Sterling silver, acrylic, and copper<br />

6 1/2 x 2 7/8 x 1 1/2 in. (16.5 x 7.3 x 3.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3970<br />

Eleanor H. Moty, <strong>American</strong>, born 1945<br />

Box Bracelet, 1969<br />

14k gold, sterling silver, phantom quartz<br />

Overall: 3 1/4 x 3 x 2 1/2 in. (8.3 x 7.6 x 6.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the <strong>Art</strong> Colony Association Inc., 2002.3972<br />

Eleanor H. Moty, <strong>American</strong>, born 1945<br />

"Cameo" Brooch, 1970<br />

Sterling silver, 14k gold, photo-electroplated copper image, copper electrodeposition,<br />

and agate<br />

2 3/4 x 4 x 15/16 in. (7 x 10.2 x 2.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3973<br />

Eleanor H. Moty, <strong>American</strong>, born 1945<br />

"Interrupted Vertical" Brooch, 1990<br />

Sterling silver, 22k and 18k gold, and rutilated quartz<br />

4 x 1 3/4 x 1/2 in. (10.2 x 4.4 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3975<br />

Louis Mueller, <strong>American</strong>, born 1943<br />

Brooch, 1985<br />

Sterling silver, jade, rose quartz, and crystal<br />

2 x 2 x 1/4 in. (5.1 x 5.1 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3979<br />

Breon O'Casey, British, born 1928<br />

Necklace, 1982<br />

Silver, velvet cord<br />

Overall: 1 x 11 dia. in. (2.5 x 27.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan<br />

2002.3982<br />

Breon O'Casey, British, born 1928<br />

Bracelet, 1986<br />

18k gold, silver<br />

Overall: 2 1/2 x 3 dia. in. (6.4 x 7.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Anned Muse<br />

2002.3984<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 22 of 35


Breon O'Casey, British, born 1928<br />

Sketchbook, 1987<br />

Book of ink and graphite drawings on paper<br />

Ea. sheet: 11 5/8 x 8 1/4 in. (29.5 x 21 cm)<br />

Sketchbook: 12 x 8 1/2 x 5/8 in. (30.5 x 21.6 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist, 2003.672<br />

Breon O'Casey, British, born 1928<br />

Brooch, 1990<br />

Gold and silver<br />

3 x 2 1/4 in. (7.6 x 5.7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3718<br />

Judy Onofrio, <strong>American</strong>, born 1939<br />

Brooch, 1989<br />

Recycled costume jewelry, shell, brass, and filigree<br />

6 x 3 1/2 x 1 1/4 in. (15.2 x 8.9 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3990<br />

Judy Onofrio, <strong>American</strong>, born 1939<br />

"Hear No Evil, See No Evil, Speak No Evil" Brooch, 1989<br />

Recycled costume jewelry, celluloid monkeys, and filigree<br />

4 1/4 x 3 x 1 in. (10.8 x 7.6 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3991<br />

Pavel Opocensky, Czech, born 1954<br />

Brooch, 1986<br />

Ivory, ebony<br />

Overall: 2 1/4 x 3 5/16 x 1 1/8 in. (5.7 x 8.4 x 2.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2003.947<br />

Albert Paley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

"Double Fibula" Brooch, 1968<br />

Gold, silver, bronze, pearls, moonstone, Madagascar labradorite<br />

Overall: 5 3/8 x 5 3/4 x 2 1/4 in. (13.7 x 14.6 x 5.7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Mr. and Mrs. John W. Mecom, Jr., by<br />

exchange, 2002.3999<br />

Albert Paley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

Brooch, 1969<br />

14k gold, sterling silver, freshwater and baroque pearls<br />

Overall: 3 1/4 x 5 1/4 x 1 1/2 in. (8.3 x 13.3 x 3.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Mr. and Mrs. John W. Mecom, Jr., by<br />

exchange, 2002.4000<br />

Albert Paley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

"Fibula" Brooch, 1969<br />

Overall: 6 x 3 1/2 x 1 in. (15.2 x 8.9 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1065-2006<br />

Albert Paley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

Necklace, 1974<br />

Silver, ivory, garnet, copper alloy, amethyst<br />

Overall: 1 1/2 x 27 in. (3.8 x 68.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English and Mr. and<br />

Mrs. John W. Mecom, Jr., by exchange, 2002.3560<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 23 of 35


Earl Pardon, <strong>American</strong>, 1926 - 1991<br />

Brooch #1365, c. 1989<br />

Sterling silver, 14k and 22k gold, enamel, pure silver, abalone shell, ebony, amethyst,<br />

and peridot<br />

3/4 x 5 1/4 x 1/2 in. (1.9 x 13.3 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4005<br />

Francesco Pavan, Italian, born 1937<br />

Brooch, 1985<br />

Gold, silver, copper, alpaca<br />

Overall: 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 3 in. (6.4 x 6.4 x 7.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of family and friends in memory of Moselle<br />

Erlich Pollack, 2002.4007<br />

Francesco Pavan, Italian, born 1937<br />

Brooch, 1985<br />

Gold, silver, copper, and alpaca<br />

2 x 1 7/8 x 1 3/8 in. (5.1 x 4.8 x 3.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4009<br />

Francesco Pavan, Italian, born 1937<br />

Brooch, 1986<br />

Gold, silver, copper, and alpaca<br />

2 1/4 x 2 1/8 x 3/4 in. (5.7 x 5.4 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4008<br />

Francesco Pavan, Italian, born 1937<br />

Brooch, n.d.<br />

Gold<br />

Overall: 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 x 3/8 in. (5.7 x 8.3 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1207-2006<br />

Ruudt Peters, Dutch, born 1950<br />

Brooch, 1997<br />

Silver, polyester, metal<br />

Overall: 1 x 1 1/2 x 4 1/2 in. (2.5 x 3.8 x 11.4 cm)<br />

Overall: 4 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1 in. (11.4 x 3.8 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2003.933<br />

Hiroko Sato Pijanowski, Japanese, born 1942<br />

Eugene Pijanowski, <strong>American</strong>, born 1938<br />

Bracelet, 1987<br />

Mizuhiki (paper cord) and canvas<br />

Overall: 3 x 10 1/4 x 4 1/2 in. (7.6 x 26 x 11.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Gail and Louis K. Adler in honor of Mr. and<br />

Mrs. Meredith Long, 2002.4016<br />

Hiroko Sato Pijanowski, Japanese, born 1942<br />

Eugene Pijanowski, <strong>American</strong>, born 1938<br />

Neckpiece, 1987<br />

Mizuhiki (paper cord) and canvas<br />

Overall: 8 1/2 x 23 1/2 x 9 3/4 in. (21.6 x 59.7 x 24.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Gail and Louis K. Adler in honor of Mr. and<br />

Mrs. Meredith Long, 2002.4017<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 24 of 35


Mario Pinton, Italian, born 1919<br />

Brooch, c. 1995<br />

18k gold, ruby<br />

Overall: 2 x 2 1/4 dia. in. (5.1 x 5.7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.4018<br />

Annelies Planteijdt, Dutch, born 1956<br />

Bracelet Brown Cardboard, 1982<br />

Cardboard, cotton thread<br />

Overall: 2 3/4 x 4 dia. in. (7 x 10.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Carrie and Ed Shoemake, 2002.4019<br />

Dorothea Prühl, Polish, born 1937<br />

Necklace, 1998<br />

Wood<br />

18 x 7 x 1 3/4 in. (45.7 x 17.8 x 4.4 cm)<br />

Original storage box: 2 1/2 x 11 1/8 x 7 1/4 in. (6.4 x 28.3 x 18.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2006.654.A,.B<br />

Robin Quigley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1947<br />

Triangular Pin / Pendant #1, 1978<br />

14k gold, sterling silver, acrylic, epoxy resin, and gold leaf<br />

10 x 4 3/4 x 1 3/8 in. (25.4 x 12.1 x 3.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4025.A,.B<br />

Robin Quigley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1947<br />

Brooch, 1982<br />

Sterling silver, 14k gold, carnelian, and black coral<br />

2 3/8 x 2 1/8 x 1/2 in. (6 x 5.4 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4027<br />

Robin Quigley, <strong>American</strong>, born 1947<br />

Fringe Bracelet, 1983<br />

Sterling silver, 14k gold, iron, silver, brass, copper<br />

1 1/2 x 4 in. diameter (3.8 x 10.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4029<br />

Wendy Ramshaw, British, born 1939<br />

Brooch, c. 1974<br />

18k yellow and white gold and ivory<br />

Overall: 2 x 2 1/4 x 3/8 in. (5.1 x 5.7 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.4033<br />

Wendy Ramshaw, British, born 1939<br />

Ringstand with Six Rings, 1976<br />

White gold, amethyst, peridot, tourmaline, acrylic, moonstone, resin<br />

Overall: 6 7/16 x 1 x 1 3/16 in. (16.3 x 2.5 x 3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.4034.A-.H<br />

Wendy Ramshaw, British, born 1939<br />

1976-1977<br />

18k gold, granets, pink sapphires, rubies, brass, and acrylic<br />

Overall (Ringstand): 6 3/16 x 1 1/2 x 1 3/16 in. (15.7 x 3.8 x 3 cm)<br />

Base: 1/8 x 4 1/4 diameter in. (0.3 x 10.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.4035.A-.L<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Page 25 of 35<br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection


Wendy Ramshaw, British, born 1939<br />

"Orbit" Necklace, 1988<br />

Nickel alloy, resin<br />

Overall: 10 1/2 x 10 1/2 x 1 1/2 in. (26.7 x 26.7 x 3.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Jill and Nick Gonzalez in honor of Sandie<br />

Zilker, 2002.4037<br />

Wendy Ramshaw, British, born 1939<br />

Study for "Orbit" Neckpiece, n.d.<br />

Graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 14 1/4 x 10 1/8 in. (36.2 x 25.7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist and Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

2003.674<br />

Reinhold Reiling, German, 1922 - 1984<br />

Brooch #8, c. 1970<br />

Silver and gold<br />

2 7/8 x 2 7/8 x 1/4 in. (7.3 x 7.3 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4043<br />

Reinhold Reiling, German, 1922 - 1984<br />

Brooch, 1970<br />

Gold<br />

Overall: 2 3/8 x 1 7/8 x 1/4 in. (6.1 x 4.8 x 0.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1075-2006<br />

Reinhold Reiling, German, 1922 - 1984<br />

Brooch, 1970<br />

Gold<br />

Overall: 2 1/4 x 2 3/8 x 1/4 in. (5.7 x 6.1 x 0.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1076-2006<br />

Richard H. Reinhardt, <strong>American</strong>, 1921 - 1998<br />

Bracelet, 1978<br />

Sterling silver<br />

1 1/8 x 3 1/16 in. diameter (2.9 x 7.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4045<br />

Richard H. Reinhardt, <strong>American</strong>, 1921 - 1998<br />

"Torque" Necklace, 1980<br />

Sterling silver<br />

1 3/8 x 7 1/2 in. diameter (3.5 x 19 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4046<br />

Ogura Ritsuko, Japanese, born 1951<br />

Necklace, 2003<br />

Corrugated cardboard, acrylic paint, silver, and stainless steel wire<br />

Overall: 10 1/2 x 10 x 2 1/2 in. (26.7 x 25.4 x 6.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:2012-2005<br />

Ogura Ritsuko, Japanese, born 1951<br />

Ring, 2004<br />

Acrylic, paint, and silver<br />

2 7/8 x 1 x 2 in. (7.3 x 2.5 x 5.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2004.1498<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Page 26 of 35<br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection


Gerd Rothmann, German, born 1941<br />

Bracelet / Pendant, 1970 - 1971<br />

Steel, acrylic, paper<br />

Overall: 2 3/8 x 2 3/4 x 2 1/8 in. (6 x 7 x 5.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Karen and Eric Pulaski Philanthropic Fund<br />

of the Houston Jewish Community Foundation, 2002.4056.A,.B<br />

Gerd Rothmann, German, born 1941<br />

"Kaugummikette" Necklace, 1991<br />

Gold-plated silver<br />

18 x 3/4 x 3/8 in. (45.7 x 1.9 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4053<br />

Gerd Rothmann, German, born 1941<br />

The Golden Nose from Helen Drutt, 1994<br />

Gold<br />

Overall: 2 1/2 x 2 1/4 x 1 1/2 in. (6.4 x 5.7 x 3.8 cm)<br />

Storage box (<strong>Art</strong>ist's original box): 2 x 4 3/4 x 4 3/4 in. (5.1 x 12.1 x 12.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1100-2006<br />

Gerd Rothmann, German, born 1941<br />

"Mit 81 Fingerabdrücken" (Wachskugeln flach gedrückt) Neckpiece, conceived 1988,<br />

made 1998<br />

Gold<br />

Overall (Necklace): 1/4 x 8 1/2 dia. in. (0.6 x 21.6 cm)<br />

Overall (Box): 1 1/16 x 9 5/8 x 9 5/8 in. (2.7 x 24.4 x 24.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Susan Vaughan Foundation,<br />

2002.4054.A,.B<br />

Gerd Rothmann, German, born 1941<br />

"Index Finger", 2000<br />

Gold<br />

1 x 1 x 3 3/8 in. (2.5 x 2.5 x 8.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4055<br />

Gerd Rothmann, German, born 1941<br />

Study for "Index Finger" Brooch, 2000<br />

Graphite and ink on paper<br />

Sheet: 11 11/16 x 9 3/8 in. (29.7 x 23.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2005.201<br />

Marjorie Schick, <strong>American</strong>, born 1941<br />

Neckpiece, 1983<br />

Wood and paint<br />

Overall: 14 3/4 x 15 x 4 1/2 in. (37.5 x 38.1 x 11.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.4060<br />

Marjorie Schick, <strong>American</strong>, born 1941<br />

Necklace, 1984<br />

Wood, rubber, paint<br />

Overall: 12 x 21 5/8 x 1 15/16 in. (30.5 x 54.9 x 4.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.4059<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 27 of 35


Bernhard Schobinger, Swiss, born 1946<br />

"Scherben vom Moritzplatz" Berlin Necklace, 1983-1984<br />

Antique crystal beads, television bulbs, German Coca-Cola bottle, silver, steel wire<br />

Overall: 8 x 6 x 1 in. (20.3 x 15.2 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Gail and Louis K. Adler in honor of Fayez<br />

Sarofim, 2002.4062<br />

Bernhard Schobinger, Swiss, born 1946<br />

"Lippenstift für Neandertalerin" Ring, 1991<br />

Copper, carborundum, silver, and gold<br />

1 1/4 x 1 3/16 in. diameter (3.2 x 3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4064<br />

Bernhard Schobinger, Swiss, born 1946<br />

"Schlange spielt mit Perle" Armpiece<br />

"Snake Plays with Pearl" Armpiece, 1995<br />

Gold, cultured pearl, black diamonds, malachite, and cinober fragments<br />

3 x 2 7/8 x 3/8 in. (7.6 x 7.3 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4066<br />

Bernhard Schobinger, Swiss, born 1946<br />

"Gekrönte Häupter Und Vajra" Bracelet and Box, 1999<br />

750 white and yellow gold, glass, turquoise, lapus lazuli, and 15 diamonds<br />

Box: Paper and silk<br />

.A, Bracelet: 3/4 x 2 7/16 x 1/4 in. (1.9 x 6.2 x .6 cm)<br />

.B, Box: 2 x 9 11/16 x 4 1/2 in. (5.1 x 24.6 x 11.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4067.A,.B<br />

Bernhard Schobinger, Swiss, born 1946<br />

"Caution Poison" Bracelet, 2000<br />

Glass, gold leaf, pearls, and paint<br />

Overall: 2 3/4 x 2 7/8 x 2 7/8 in. (7 x 7.4 x 7.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1071-2006<br />

Bernhard Schobinger, Swiss, born 1946<br />

"Cause and Effect" Ring, 2002<br />

White gold, bronze, zirconium, and malachite<br />

Overall: 2 1/4 x 1 1/4 x 1 1/4 in. (5.7 x 3.2 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1070-2006<br />

Deganit Schocken, Israeli, born 1947<br />

Necklace, 1984<br />

Gold, porcelain, and pearl<br />

14 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 3/4 in. (37.5 x 7 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4069<br />

Deganit Schocken, Israeli, born 1947<br />

Untitled, 1995<br />

Onion skin, foam, and metals<br />

Overall: 8 1/2 x 11 x 3/4 in. (21.6 x 27.9 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English in honor of the<br />

artist, 2003.934<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 28 of 35


Joyce J. Scott, <strong>American</strong>, born 1948<br />

"The Sneak" Necklace, 1989<br />

Beads and thread<br />

13 1/2 x 11 x 2 1/4 in. (34.3 x 27.9 x 5.7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4077<br />

Joyce J. Scott, <strong>American</strong>, born 1948<br />

"Danger Done" Neckpiece, 1994<br />

Glass beads, found objects, thread<br />

Overall: 13 1/4 x 8 x 1 1/2 in. (33.7 x 20.3 x 3.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.4078<br />

Helen Shirk, <strong>American</strong>, born 1942<br />

Brooch, 1978<br />

Sterling silver and onyx<br />

7/8 x 7 x 1 15/16 in. (2.2 x 17.8 x 4.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4083<br />

Helen Shirk, <strong>American</strong>, born 1942<br />

Brooch TBB2, 1981<br />

Titanium, sterling silver, gold<br />

Overall: 1 5/8 x 3 1/4 x 3/8 in. (4.1 x 8.3 x 1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the estate of Eleanor S. McCollum, 2002.4088<br />

Helen Shirk, <strong>American</strong>, born 1942<br />

Brooch TB11TR, 1982<br />

Sterling silver and titanium<br />

1 1/2 x 4 x 5/8 in. (3.8 x 10.2 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4086<br />

Jiri Sibor, Czech, born 1966<br />

Untitled Brooch, from the cycle <strong>Art</strong>ificial Matter, 1997<br />

Stainless steel and acrylic<br />

Overall: 2 5/8 x 2 1/2 x 3/4 in. (6.6 x 6.4 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2005.2131<br />

Olaf Skoogfors, <strong>American</strong>, born Sweden, 1930 - 1975<br />

Brooch, 1966<br />

Gold-plated sterling silver, round pearls, and Biwa pearls<br />

2 x 2 x 1/2 in. (5.1 x 5.1 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4089<br />

Olaf Skoogfors, <strong>American</strong>, born Sweden, 1930 - 1975<br />

Brooch, 1970<br />

Gold-plated sterling silver and ivory<br />

3 5/8 x 2 3/16 x 1 in. (9.2 x 5.6 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4090<br />

Olaf Skoogfors, <strong>American</strong>, born Sweden, 1930 - 1975<br />

Brooch, 1970<br />

Gold-plated sterling silver and baroque Biwa pearl<br />

2 1/2 x 2 7/16 x 1/2 in. (6.4 x 6.2 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4091<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 29 of 35


Olaf Skoogfors, <strong>American</strong>, born Sweden, 1930 - 1975<br />

Pendant, 1972<br />

Bronze, brass, sterling silver, and ivory<br />

9 1/2 x 5 x 1 1/4 in. (24.1 x 12.7 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4095<br />

Olaf Skoogfors, <strong>American</strong>, born Sweden, 1930 - 1975<br />

Brooch, 1973<br />

Gold-plated sterling silver, and blue baroque pearl<br />

2 3/8 x 2 1/8 x 3/4 in. (6 x 5.4 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4096<br />

Peter Skubic, Yugoslavian, born 1935<br />

Brooch, 2000<br />

Stainless steel and photoprint<br />

Overall (Brooch): 4 3/4 x 3 1/16 x 1 in. (12.1 x 7.7 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Storage box: 6 1/8 x 4 1/4 x 1 1/2 in. (15.5 x 10.8 x 3.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

2005.2140.A,.B<br />

Kiff Slemmons, <strong>American</strong>, born 1944<br />

"Zig Zag" Pendant from The Allies series, 1994<br />

Silver and wooden ruler<br />

26 x 2 5/8 x 1/4 in. (66 x 6.7 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4104<br />

Robert Smit, Dutch, born 1941<br />

"Square" Necklace, 1990<br />

Gold<br />

Overall (Pendant): 14 1/4 x 6 x 1 1/4 in. (36.2 x 15.2 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Mary<br />

Kathryn Lynch Kurtz Charitable Lead Trust, 2002.4105<br />

Robert Smit, Dutch, born 1941<br />

"Bello’s Sister with Black Hat" Brooch, 1993<br />

Gold, paint, and metal<br />

5 5/8 x 3 1/8 x 13/16 in. (14.3 x 7.9 x 2.1 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4106<br />

Robert Smit, Dutch, born 1941<br />

"Cwrt from Bryn-dafydd" Pendant, 2004<br />

Gold and paint<br />

14 1/2 x 4 3/4 x 1/2 in. (36.8 x 12.1 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1332-2006<br />

Ramona Solberg, <strong>American</strong>, 1921 - 2005<br />

Pendant, 1994<br />

Silver, beads, and found objects<br />

Overall: 9 x 6 x 1/2 in. (22.9 x 15.2 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Susan Edwards, 2002.4108<br />

Tore Svenson, Swedish, born 1948<br />

Brooch, 1998<br />

Steel and gilt<br />

Overall: 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 1/8 in. (5.7 x 5.7 x 0.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2006.663.1<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 30 of 35


Tore Svenson, Swedish, born 1948<br />

Brooch, 1998<br />

Steel and gilt<br />

Overall: 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 1/8 in. (5.7 x 5.7 x 0.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2006.663.2<br />

Tore Svenson, Swedish, born 1948<br />

Brooch, 1998<br />

Steel and gilt<br />

Overall: 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 1/8 in. (5.7 x 5.7 x 0.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2006.663.3<br />

Tore Svenson, Swedish, born 1948<br />

Brooch, 1998<br />

Steel and gilt<br />

Overall: 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 1/8 in. (5.7 x 5.7 x 0.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2006.663.4<br />

Janna Syvänoja, Finnish, born 1960<br />

Brooch, 1992<br />

Fishnet, steelwire<br />

Overall: 4 1/2 x 4 3/4 x 1 in. (11.4 x 12.1 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Elegant Additions<br />

2002.4118<br />

Janna Syvänoja, Finnish, born 1960<br />

Necklace, 1994<br />

Bookpaper, steelwire, clothboard, and fiber cord<br />

Overall: 13 1/2 x 14 3/4 x 3/16 in. (34.3 x 37.5 x 0.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, museum purchase with funds provided by the Design<br />

Council, 2003, 2002.4119<br />

Donald Paul Tompkins, <strong>American</strong>, 1933-1982<br />

"Jackson Pollock" Commemorative Medal<br />

From the series Commemorative Medals, c. 1970<br />

Sterling silver, brass, copper, and synthetic stones<br />

Overall: 14 x 5 1/8 x 7/8 in. (35.6 x 13 x 2.2 cm)<br />

Overall (pendant): 4 5/8 x 5 1/8 x 7/8 in. (11.7 x 13 x 2.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2006.655<br />

Donald Paul Tompkins, <strong>American</strong>, 1933-1982<br />

"Janis Joplin" Commemorative Medal<br />

From the series Commemorative Medals, 1970<br />

Sterling silver, brass, and cultured pearl<br />

Overall: 9 3/4 x 4 1/4 x 3/4 in. (24.8 x 10.8 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Overall (w/o chain): 2 1/4 x 3 5/8 x 3/4 in. (5.7 x 9.2 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2006.657<br />

Donald Paul Tompkins, <strong>American</strong>, 1933-1982<br />

"Minnesota Fats" Commemorative Medal<br />

From the series "Commemorative Medals", 1971<br />

Sterling silver, pearl, half-tone photomechanical reproduction, Plexiglas, flocking,<br />

leather<br />

3 5/8 x 3 13/16 x 5/8 in. (9.2 x 9.7 x 1.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.4127<br />

Merrily Tompkins, <strong>American</strong>, born 1947<br />

"Thank You, Hide" Pendant, 1976<br />

Copper, brass, sterling silver, enamels, wood, leather, and found objects<br />

15 1/2 x 5 1/4 x 3/4 in. (39.4 x 13.3 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4130<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Page 31 of 35<br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection


Merrily Tompkins, <strong>American</strong>, born 1947<br />

"Slow Boat" Pendant (Portrait of Ken Cory), 1976<br />

Enamel, sterling silver, wood, copper, brass, painted stone, pencil, ballpoint pen spring,<br />

waxed lacing, Tiger Balm tin, domino<br />

Overall: 16 3/4 x 4 1/8 x 1 in. (42.5 x 10.4 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1197-2006<br />

Merrily Tompkins, <strong>American</strong>, born 1947<br />

"The Blemish" (Portrait of Don Tompkins)<br />

From the series "Stages", 1985<br />

Wood, paint, copper, rope, paste gemstones, silk cord, vintage button, shells, ceramic<br />

tile, and electric bulbs and cords<br />

Overall: 20 1/8 x 25 1/2 x 5 3/4 in. (51.1 x 64.8 x 14.6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1198-2006<br />

Emmy Van Leersum, Dutch, 1930 - 1984<br />

Armband from the series of Vertical Sawcuts, 1974<br />

Stainless steel<br />

2 9/16 x 2 3/8 in. diameter (6.5 x 6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4136<br />

Emmy Van Leersum, Dutch, 1930 - 1984<br />

Drawing for Armband #56, 1975<br />

Gelamineerd and PVC, edition of 3<br />

Sheet: 7 5/8 x 7 5/8 in. (19.4 x 19.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2005.2144<br />

Emmy Van Leersum, Dutch, 1930 - 1984<br />

Armpiece<br />

From the series Broken Lines with primary colors, 1982<br />

Overall: 3 x 4 1/4 x 1 1/4 in. (7.6 x 10.8 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the <strong>Art</strong> Colony Association Inc. and Karin and<br />

Leo Shipman, 2002.4141<br />

Emmy Van Leersum, Dutch, 1930 - 1984<br />

"Broken Lines" Earrings, 1982<br />

Brass and paint<br />

Each: 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 1/4 in. (1.3 x 14 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4143.A,.B<br />

Emmy Van Leersum, Dutch, 1930 - 1984<br />

"Broken Lines" Earrings, 1982<br />

PVC and ink<br />

Each: 1 1/2 x 1 7/8 x 1 3/8 in. (3.8 x 4.8 x 3.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4144.A,.B<br />

Emmy Van Leersum, Dutch, 1930 - 1984<br />

"Broken Lines" Necklace, 1982<br />

Nylon<br />

9 3/4 x 5 3/4 x 1 3/8 in. (24.8 x 14.6 x 3.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4145<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 32 of 35


Emmy Van Leersum, Dutch, 1930 - 1984<br />

"Broken Lines" Armband, c. 1982-1984<br />

PVC and ink<br />

2 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 2 1/4 in. (6.4 x 8.9 x 5.7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4146<br />

Frans van Nieuwenborg, Dutch, born 1945<br />

Martijn Wegman, Dutch, born 1955<br />

Bracelet, 1975<br />

Stainless steel<br />

Overall: 4 x 4 x 2 1/8 in. (10.2 x 10.2 x 5.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Mr. and Mrs. George Peterkin, Jr., 2002.4155<br />

Joke van Ommen, Dutch, 1948-1988<br />

Necklace, 1981<br />

Silver<br />

15 1/2 x 1 x 1/2 in. (39.4 x 2.5 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4159<br />

Tone Vigeland, Norwegian, born 1938<br />

Neckpiece, 1981<br />

Steel, silver, 14k and 18k gold<br />

Overall: 12 3/8 x 12 3/8 in. (31.5 x 31.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Susan Vaughan Foundation<br />

Tone Vigeland, Norwegian, born 1938<br />

Bracelet, 1983<br />

Steel and silver<br />

Overall: 2 5/8 x 5 1/4 x 5 1/4 in. (6.6 x 13.3 x 13.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1080-2006<br />

Image not<br />

available<br />

Tone Vigeland, Norwegian, born 1938<br />

Bracelet, 1983<br />

Silver<br />

3 3/4 x 4 dia. in. (9.5 x 10.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English<br />

TR:643-2005<br />

Tone Vigeland, Norwegian, born 1938<br />

Necklace, 1983<br />

Silver<br />

Overall: 12 1/2 x 12 1/4 x 1/16 in. (31.8 x 31.1 x 0.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:644-2005<br />

Tone Vigeland, Norwegian, born 1938<br />

Bracelet, 1985<br />

Silver<br />

Overall: 4 x 2 1/2 dia. in. (10.2 x 6.4 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Susan Vaughan Foundation<br />

Tone Vigeland, Norwegian, born 1938<br />

Wall Piece I, 2002<br />

Lead and steel<br />

Dimensions variable<br />

Helen Williams Drutt collection, museum purchase and gift of Helen Williams Drutt<br />

English, 2004.2017<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 33 of 35


David Watkins, British, born 1940<br />

Hinged Loop Neckpiece with Three Bars, 1974<br />

Acrylic and sterling silver<br />

10 1/2 x 5 1/4 x 1/2 in. (26.7 x 13.3 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation<br />

David Watkins, British, born 1940<br />

Neckpiece, 1976-77<br />

Steel and gold<br />

10 x 9 5/16 x 1 in. (25.4 x 23.7 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4181<br />

David Watkins, British, born 1940<br />

"Wing Wave 3" Combination Neckpiece, 1983<br />

Neoprene coated steel and wood<br />

11 x 10 1/2 x 1/4 in. (27.9 x 26.6 x .7 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4184.A-.C<br />

David Watkins, British, born 1940<br />

"Voyager" Neckpiece, 1984-1985<br />

Neoprene-coated steel, wood<br />

Overall: 12 x 8 in. (30.5 x 20.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Susan Vaughan Foundation, 2002.4185.1<br />

David Watkins, British, born 1940<br />

Untitled study for "Voyager" Neckpiece, 1985<br />

Colored pencil and graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 22 1/2 x 30 in. (57.2 x 76.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist and Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

2003.972<br />

Margaret West, Australian, born 1936<br />

Collar with Pendant, 1978<br />

Stainless steel and titanium<br />

Overall: 10 1/2 x 6 x 1 1/2 in. (26.7 x 15.2 x 3.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, promised gift of Helen Williams Drutt English,<br />

TR:1072-2006<br />

Margaret West, Australian, born 1936<br />

Study for Collar, June, 1978<br />

Graphite on paper<br />

Sheet: 9 7/8 x 7 13/16 in. (25.1 x 19.8 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the artist, 2004.2134<br />

Margaret West, Australian, born 1936<br />

Brooch, 1978<br />

Stainless steel and titanium<br />

Overall: 2 x 2 1/8 x 1/2 in. (5.1 x 5.3 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2005.2149<br />

Margaret West, Australian, born 1936<br />

"Transient Image" Brooch<br />

From the series "Transient Images", 1979<br />

Stainless steel<br />

Overall: 2 x 2 1/2 x 1/2 in. (5.1 x 6.4 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2005.2150<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 34 of 35


Margaret West, Australian, born 1936<br />

"Transient Image" Brooch<br />

From the series "Transient Images", 1980<br />

Stainless steel and paint<br />

Overall: 2 1/16 x 2 1/4 x 1/2 in. (5.2 x 5.7 x 1.3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Helen Williams Drutt English, 2005.2151<br />

Margaret West, Australian, born 1936<br />

"One Stone with Black Steel Rings" Necklace, 1984<br />

Granite, blackened steel, and stainless steel<br />

11 1/2 x 8 x 1 in. (29.2 x 20.3 x 2.5 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of Nana Booker and M. David Lowe, 2002.3726<br />

J. Fred Woell (James Frederick Woell), <strong>American</strong>, born 1934<br />

"Love Object" Brooch, 1968<br />

Steel end of a soda pop can, gold leaf, paint, bottle glass, photograph, glass mirror, and<br />

japan gold size<br />

1/2 x 3 5/8 in. diameter (1.3 x 9.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation, 2002.3609<br />

J. Fred Woell (James Frederick Woell), <strong>American</strong>, born 1934<br />

"Class of '78" Brooch, 1978<br />

Copper, silicone rubber, fiberglass screen, paper, steel, gold leaf, paper clip<br />

Overall: 2 x 4 x 3/4 in. (5.1 x 10.2 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Morgan Foundation in honor of Catherine<br />

Asher Morgan, 2002.4114<br />

J. Fred Woell (James Frederick Woell), <strong>American</strong>, born 1934<br />

"West of Jersey" Neckpiece, 1986<br />

Brass, sterling silver, copper, and leather<br />

11 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 1/4 in. (29.2 x 11.4 x .6 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4152<br />

Nancy Worden, <strong>American</strong>, born 1954<br />

"Conventional Weapons" Necklace, 1997<br />

Silver, brass, copper, onyx, glass, vintage plastics, and paper<br />

15 x 8 1/4 x 3/4 in. (38.1 x 21 x 1.9 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.3657<br />

Nancy Worden, <strong>American</strong>, born 1954<br />

James Minson, Australian, born 1962<br />

"Buying Time" Necklace, 1999<br />

Copper, silver, brass, plastic, horn, sand, pyrex<br />

Overall: 26 1/2 x 4 3/16 x 1 1/4 in. (67.3 x 10.6 x 3.2 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of friends of Barbara Paull in honor of her<br />

birthday, 2002.3656<br />

Othmar Zschaler, Swiss, born 1930<br />

"Oval Relief" Ring, 1994<br />

Gold<br />

1 1/4 x 1 3/16 in. diameter (3.2 x 3 cm)<br />

Helen Williams Drutt Collection, gift of the Caroline Wiess Law Foundation,<br />

2002.4189<br />

<strong>Renwick</strong> <strong>Gallery</strong> of the <strong>Smithsonian</strong> <strong>American</strong> <strong>Art</strong> <strong>Museum</strong><br />

Ornament as <strong>Art</strong>: Avant-Garde Jewelry from the Helen Williams Drutt Collection<br />

Page 35 of 35

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