WT_2010_04: BASELWORLD 2010: THE NEW WATCHES ...

BASELWORLD 2010 

The New Watches 

Tutima 

THE GERMAN 

BRAND Tutima is 

reintroducing the 

Pacific automatic 

divers’ watch, a part of 

the Tutima Military collection. 

The stainless 

steel case is 43 mm in diameter 

and water-resistant 

to 200 meters; it has 

a scratch-resistant sapphire 

crystal and a unidirectionally 

rotating bezel 

with 60-minute divers’- 

scale markings. An ETA 

2836-2 movement with 

day-date function powers 

the watch. Three models 

are available, with a black, 

white or carbon fiber (pictured) 

dial. All retail for 

$1,200. 

Casio 

THIS YEAR MARKS the 40th 

anniversary of Earth Day, and 

Casio is commemorating this 

environmentalist milestone 

with the release of its G-Shock 

Go Green Project — a trio of 

new G-Shock watches designed 

and marketed with the 

planet in mind. Each is delivered 

in packaging made of 100 

percent recycled paper and has 

an eye-catching, Earth-Dayinspired 

green color scheme. 

All feature Casio’s self-charging 

“Tough Solar” technology, 

which uses a tiny solar panel 

to charge a large-capacity 

rechargeable battery that powers 

the watches’ many functions: 

This model, the 

G2300GR-3, includes a 48- 

city world time function and a 

daily alarm with snooze and is 

water-resistant to 200 meters. 

It sells for $110. 

Urwerk 

SEVEN YEARS AGO, this artisan brand founded by 

watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei 

set the watch world abuzz with its UR-103 model, which 

indicated the time using orbiting satellites rather than 

hour hands. This year’s UR-103T “Mexican Fireleg” 

version, a limited edition of 60 pieces, will be one of the 

final models before the brand ceases production of the 

UR-103 collection this year. The case is in stainless steel 

or gold treated with the alloy AlTiN (Aluminum Titanium 

Nitride). Four numbered, rotating satellites, attached 

to a central, orbiting mechanism designed to look like a 

Geneva cross, indicate the hour while the minutes appear 

on a scale at the bottom. The mostly black watch has orange 

Super-LumiNova highlights, which lend the model, 

named for a type of tarantula, its nickname. The UR- 

103T’s manual-wound Caliber 3.04 has a triple bridge 

made of black ARCAP and holds a power reserve of 36 

hours. The price is $70,000.



Mühle 

Glashütte 

WHEN THE GERMAN Navy’s 

team of rescue pilots needed a 

chronograph watch with an easyto-read 

display and a function to 

quickly calculate flight speeds, 

they collaborated with Mühle to 

produce the new S.A.R. Flieger- 

Chronograph (S.A.R. stands for 

“search and rescue”). The watch 

was developed for rough seas 

and harsh weather, with a 44- 

mm stainless-steel case, unidirectional 

divers’ bezel, black dial 

with SuperLumiNova hands and 

indices, screw-down crown and 

2.5-mm-thick domed sapphire 

crystal. The chronograph pushers, 

stop-seconds hand and subdials 

for chronograph hours and 

minutes are highlighted in orange, 

the traditional search-andrescue 

signal color. The orange 

highlighted scale between 12 

and 2 o’clock can be used to calculate 

flight speed. The movement, 

MU 9408, based on an ETA 

7750, includes Mühle’s threequarter 

plate and patented 

woodpecker’s neck adjustment 

mechanism. The watch is available 

on a steel bracelet ($3,499) 

or rubber strap with divers’ extension 

(3,299). 

Maîtres du Temps 

Cuervo y 

Sobrinos 

THE NEW HISTORIADOR model 

from Cuervo y Sobrinos joins the 

recent revival of classically simple 

watch models. The brand reached 

into its archives for the design, 

which originated in the 1950s. 

The watch features central hour 

and minute hands, a small seconds 

subdial at 6 o’clock, and a date 

window at 3 o’clock. Its dial has 

applied indices and the CYS logo 

at 12 o’clock. The double curved 

sapphire crystal is typical of the 

era. The watch has a 40-mm case 

with a see-through back; inside 

beats an ETA 2895 movement 

with a logo-engraved rotor. The 

version with a stainless-steel case 

is $2,900; the one with a rose-gold 

case is $9,995. Both are available 

with ivory or black dials and alligator 

leather straps. 

THE MAÎTRES DU TEMPS Chapter One watch, a collaboration of master watchmakers 

Christophe Claret, Roger Dubuis and Peter Speake-Marin, debuted in 2008 in a large 

curved rectangular case. This year, the brand packs the same smorgasbord of complications 

into a more traditional round case. The Chapter One Round, like its predecessor, includes 

a monopusher chronograph, a tourbillon, a retrograde date and retrograde GMT 

function, and rolling bars at the top and bottom of the case showing, respectively, the 

moon phase and day of the week. A limited edition of 11 pieces, priced at $470,000 each, 

the watch has a 5N rose-gold case composed of 96 separate pieces and measuring a stately 

62 mm x 59 mm, including the lugs. The caseback includes an octagonal sapphire viewing 

window to show off the movement, Caliber 

SHC02 (also used in the first Chapter One), 

which is 51 mm x 32 mm and holds 60 

hours of power. The Chapter One 

Round comes on a hand-sewn alligator 

strap with a rose-gold 

buckle.



H. Moser & Cie. 

WITH ITS NEW Perpetual Moon model, 

Moser has created a watch with a moonphase 

that it claims will deviate by only 

one day after more than 1,000 years. The 

moon-phase disk, subdivided into eight 

internationally established astronomical 

quarters by vertical lines, is seen in a window 

at 6 o’clock. The moon’s phases are 

defined by the lines aligning precisely with 

the arrows at the top and bottom of the 

aperture; the dark and light areas of the 

disk move along with the actual time of 

the moon’s orbit around the earth: precisely 

one rotation every 29 days, 12 

hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds. 

Moser’s hand-wound manufacture Caliber 

HMC348.901 uses a complicated 

gear train, along with the first wrap 

spring clutch to be used in a moon-phase 

display, to ensure that the moon disk is securely 

attached to the hour indicator and 

runs continuously with it. The result is a 

high level of precision for the moon-phase 

function: a deviation of only .23 seconds 

per day or one day after 1,027.30 years. 

The watch’s case, in rose gold or platinum, 

is 40.8 mm in diameter; its dial is 

dark fumé blue with applied elements and 

hands in the same color gold as the case. 

The movement, which is visible through 

the sapphire caseback, has a dual spring 

barrel for a power reserve of seven days 

when fully wound. Prices are $25,800 for 

rose gold and $36,000 for platinum. 

Sector 

SECTOR’S NEW divers’ model, 

the Shark Master 1000 MT, is 

dedicated to Congolese freediver 

Patrick Musimu, the first 

man to descend to a depth of 

209.6 meters in the record time 

of three minutes, 28 seconds. 

The Shark Master has a Swissmade 

automatic movement, an 

ETA 2824, inside its steel case, 

which is water-resistant to 1,000 

meters. The watch has a screwdown 

caseback and crown and a 

helium-release valve. The crystal 

is sapphire and the strap is rubber. 

The watch comes in a special 

pack that also includes diving 

tools. 

Romain Jerome 

AFTER BURSTING on the scene with its Titanic 

watch, which used traces of steel from the Titanic 

in its case, Romain Jerome continues its 

“DNA of legends” theme with the new Moon 

Invader series, whose cases incorporate metal 

from the Apollo 11 lunar module. The Moon Invader 

Eminence Grise has a 46-mm case of dark 

gray PVD-coated steel and rose gold. At the corners 

of the cushion-shaped case are functional 

ball-and-socket joints, reminiscent of the feet of 

the lunar landing module, which can be adjusted 

for wearing comfort. The dial features a mesh 

gridwork pattern that evokes those on the tires 

of lunar roving vehicles. The caseback sports an 

engraved silver-alloy plate whose composition 

includes trace amounts of actual moon rocks, 

and the textured latticework pattern on the caseback 

and the black rubber strap is meant to symbolize 

the framework of futuristic lunar colonization 

bases. The watch is powered by automatic 

caliber RJ001-A, with a 42-hour power 

reserve, and is expected to cost around $20,000.



Armin Strom 

CALIBER ARM09, which debuted in 

November, was Armin Strom’s first 

in-house movement. Now the company 

has incorporated it into a new 

collection named One Week in honor 

of the movement’s seven-day power 

reserve. The ARM09 is a double-barrel 

manual-wind movement with 

screwed balance and a frequency of 

18,000 vph. It is 36.6 mm in diameter. 

The watch has a small seconds 

display and a power-reserve indicator 

in the same subdial at 9 o’clock. 

The dial has an off-center time indication 

and an aperture showing the 

crown wheels. The One Week collection 

contains four models, named 

Earth (shown here, $24,200), Air, 

Fire and Water, with cases made, respectively, 

of black PVD-coated 

steel, titanium, rose gold and steel. 

There will be 100 pieces of each 

model. 

Movado 

THIS HEFTY AUTOMATIC chronograph, 

the Movado Master Chronograph 

($3,995) is a new addition to 

Movado’s Master collection, launched 

last year. With gear-like crenellations 

on its bezel and crown and big, hingestyle 

lugs, it has a tough, industrial 

look. The case is made of steel and is 

45 mm in diameter. It has a solid back 

and is water-resistant to 300 meters. 

The movement is from ETA and has a 

48-hour power reserve. The watch has 

a 60-minute counter and a subdial at 6 

o’clock for the date and the 12-hour 

counter. The bezel is black sapphire 

and the dial indices, which get longer 

toward the bottom of the dial, are luminous. 

The crystal is flat and made of 

sapphire; it has a nonreflective coating 

on the inside. The Movado signature 

dot sits at 12 o’clock. The strap is rubber 

and has a deployant buckle. 

Ferragamo 

THIS TWO-TIME-ZONE watch from Ferragamo 

is part of the Ferragamo 1898 collection, 

named for the year that brand founder Salvatore 

Ferragamo was born. The movement is a 

Ronda quartz 6203 with big date. The second 

time zone is at 6 o’clock. The case is 40 mm 

wide and water-resistant to 30 meters. The 

model shown here has a black ion-plated bezel; 

other models have gold IP or steel bezels. The 

case is shaped like the brand logo, a circle with 

a bar on one side (Ferragamo calls it a Gancino). 

The logo also adorns the end of the seconds 

hand. The crystal is made of sapphire and 

has a nonreflective coating. The strap is calfskin 

embossed with a crocodile-skin pattern. 

($1,050). 

56 WatchTime August 2010



Hamilton 

FOUNDED IN 1892, just as unified quality 

standards were first being established for 

watches used by U.S. railroad employees, 

Hamilton soon became famous for its precise 

and reliable railway watches. The brand 

harks back to its halcyon train-timing days 

with a set of three new railroad-inspired 

watches, called RailRoad. The one shown 

here ($2,145), the RailRoad AutoChrono, 

has an ETA Valgranges automatic A07-211 

movement. The largest of the three watches, 

it has a 46-mm case (the others are 38 mm 

and 44 mm in diameter). Railroad inspiration 

can be seen in the track-like design on 

the subdials and on the 3-minute, spiral 

tachymeter scale in the middle of the dial (the 

scale can be used to measure the relatively 

slow speed of a person walking — another 

bow to 19th-century life). The watch comes 

with a silver or black dial and a leather strap 

or metal bracelet. The crystal is made of sapphire 

and the case, available in plain steel or 

black PVD-coated steel, is water-resistant to 

100 meters. 

Alpina 

MARCH SAW THE 58th 

edition of the 12 Hours of 

Sebring race, of which Alpina 

is the official timekeeper. 

Alpina marked the birthday 

with this limited-edition 

watch, the Automatic Chrono 

GMT, one of three in the new 

Alpina Racing Collection. The 

watch is 47 mm in diameter. 

There is a 12-hour counter at 6 

o’clock in honor of the race’s 

duration, with a red numeral 

“12” at the subdial’s top offering 

a celebratory salute to the 

race’s finish. The 30-minute 

counter has a red segment 

resembling that on a car’s 

tachymeter. The watch has 

raised, luminous markers. The 

GMT scale is divided into light 

and dark halves so you can 

easily tell day from night in a 

second time zone. There will 

be 158 pieces produced. Price: 

$2,750. The other watches in 

the collection are an automatic 

(258 pieces) and a chronograph 

(558 pieces). 

Citizen 

THE WORLD PERPETUAL A-T from 

Citizen combines four useful features. 

First is atomic accuracy: the watch has a 

receiver that picks up radio time signals 

from atomic clocks in the United States, 

Germany, Japan and China (the window 

at 3 o’clock indicates whether the watch 

is receiving a strong enough signal). Second, 

it enables the wearer to see the time 

in a different time zone (by means of the 

city ring inscribed on the bezel). Third is 

a perpetual calendar (which can be easily 

reset if the watch ever runs out of power 

and stops running). And, lastly, the watch 

is powered by light and never needs a battery 

change. The case is steel and 43 mm 

in diameter. The crystal is made of sapphire 

and is nonreflective. Price: $495. 




Breitling 

THE SUPEROCEAN has had a makeover. 

Breitling has redesigned it so that it has a 

cleaner, easier-to-read dial and bezel. In addition, 

the dial is now encircled by a colored 

ring (yellow, blue, red, silver or black) that 

matches the tip of the seconds hand, and the 

bezel, which rotates in one direction, now 

has a layer of black rubber to give it a modern, 

matte look. The bezel is knurled so that 

it can be grasped easily by someone wearing 

gloves. The movement is the same as before, 

an automatic Breitling Caliber 17, which 

has a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch 

has a helium-escape valve at 10 o’clock, 

plus crown protectors, luminous hands and 

markers and a sapphire crystal with nonreflective 

coating on both sides. The case is 42 

mm in diameter and water-resistant to 

1,500 meters. There is a choice of two styles 

of rubber strap ($2,695 and $2,995) or a 

metal bracelet ($3,085). 

Ritmo Mundo 

THE EIGHT-YEAR-OLD Ritmo 

Mundo brand, based in Beverly 

Hills, has expanded its licensed 

collection of IndyCar watches 

with this new anadigi quartz 

model, the IndyCar 223 ($900). 

The watch, which is designed to 

look like the speedometer of a 

racecar, is a world timer; the city 

is shown in a window at 12 o’clock 

and its corresponding time, down 

to the second, in a window at 6 

o’clock. The case is 44 mm wide 

and water-resistant to 100 meters. 

The dial comes in a choice of seven 

colors. The tire-inspired rubber 

strap shown here can be replaced 

with a leather strap or steel 

bracelet. 

David Yurman 

WELL-KNOWN jewelry designer David Yurman’s signature cable pattern 

covers the case of this new automatic model, the Sub-Second Classic. The 

watch contains an ETA 2895-2, with date at 3 o’clock. The seconds subdial 

is at 6 o’clock. The case is 43.5 mm wide and has a sapphire caseback that 

shows off the winding rotor, which is skeletonized with the DY logo. The 

crystal on the front is also sapphire; both front and back crystals have a nonreflective 

coating on both sides. The watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. It 

is available with a silver-colored dial in addition to the black dial shown 

here, and with various alligator straps.



Technomarine 

Glycine 

GLYCINE’S NEW AIRMAN BASE 22 is modeled 

on the original Airman watch from 1953. It has 

the same design and size as the original, as well as 

other details like the lattice structure on the crown. 

The watch comes in three versions: a basic 24- 

hour watch with two time zones, a GMT version 

with three time zones and red GMT hand, and a 

“GA” version for frequent flyers who want to 

switch time zones without stopping the movement. 

(The GA refers to the initials of the Thai airline 

pilot who suggested to a Glycine salesman that 

the firm create a watch for pilots.) The GA version, 

shown here, has four hands and shows the time in 

three time zones via the hour hand, a second-timezone 

hand and the rotating 24-hour bezel. The Airman 

Base 22 is powered by an ETA 2893-2 automatic 

movement. The case is stainless steel with a 

42 mm diameter (not including crown), water-resistant 

to 200 meters. It has a sapphire crystal on 

the front and an exhibition back with a mineral 

crystal. The watch comes with either a leather 

strap ($1,995 for each version) or polished stainless 

steel bracelet ($2,125 for each version). For 

more information, go to the brand’s Web site, 

www.glycine-watch.ch. 

Swisstek 

PHOENIX, Arizona-based 

Swisstek has introduced a 

new Swiss-made quartz watch 

to its Jet-Setter collection of 

GMT watches. Notable features 

of the watch are a day 

subdial at 6 o’clock, an inner 

date ring, an outer 24-hour 

ring to tell time in a second 

time zone, a power-reserve 

indicator for measuring the 

battery’s power, and an alarm. 

The watch has a stainless steel 

case with a protective crown 

cap, 50-meter water-resistance, 

a silicon strap with a 

stainless-steel push-button 

deployant buckle, and a 

scratch-resistant sapphire 

crystal. The hands and markers 

are coated with Super- 

LumiNova. Powering the 

watch is an ISA Swiss quartz 

movement (ISA 8173). The 

watch is a limited edition; 

Swisstek will make only 1,000 

pieces (suggested retail price: 

$695). Swisstek also offers the 

watch in two versions with 60 

diamonds (1.72 carats total). 

More information is at 

www.swisstekwatches.com. 

CRUISE SPORT is a revamped 

interpretation of 

Technomarine’s signature 

Cruise collection, part of a 

major repositioning of the 

Technomarine brand recently 

initiated by a new 

management team. The 

new version has a smoother 

bezel, wider hands and a 

three-dimensional dial. The 

case is made of 316L stainless 

steel with a black gel 

cover and is water-resistant 

to 200 meters. The watch 

comes with a silicone strap 

that the company says is 

softer and more flexible 

than the gel-plastic version 

it used in recent years. The 

watch is black with color 

highlights along the bezel, 

minute ring and 24-hour 

chrono subdial (in the 

chronograph version). 

Highlight colors include 

white, blue, fuchsia, green 

and orange. Each watch 

comes with a second silicone 

strap matching the 

highlight color on the dial. 

The watch is powered by a 

Citizen FS20 quartz movement. 

The Cruise Sport 

comes in three versions: a 

three-hand model with a 

40-mm case diameter 

($325); a 40-mm chronograph 

($425); and a 45-mm 

chronograph ($425). 




Gucci 

GUCCI HAS Introduced two 

new men’s sports models in 

its Classic Extra Large (44 MM) 

collection, a three-hand date 

version and a chronograph 

version. The watches have the 

Gucci “G” shadow monogram 

as part of the dial design. The 

three-hand model has a case 

and bracelet made of stainless 

steel with black PVD coating; 

the bracelet has a deployant 

buckle. The chronograph 

model has a stainless steel 

case and bracelet with deployant 

buckle and a 

tachymeter scale on the bezel. 

Both watches feature Gucci’s 

distinctive green-red-green 

web at 3 o’clock. They have 

sapphire crystals and are 

water-resistant to 30 meters. 

Both are powered by ETA 

quartz movements. The 

watches come with a two-year 

warranty. The suggested retail 

price is $950 for the threehand 

date and $1,095 for the 

chronograph version. 

Tiffany & Co. 

LAST YEAR, the Swatch Group’s revamped 

Tiffany & Co. line introduced 

its flagship men’s model, the Atlas 

Chronograph. That watch is now 

available in a sporty, 40-mm-square, 

stainless-steel case. Like its round predecessor, 

the Atlas Gent Square Chronograph 

has Roman numerals on the 

hour track, a polished bezel with contrasting 

matte incisions, and a decorative 

clous de Paris pattern in the dial’s 

center. The movement is an automatic 

Frédéric Piguet 1285, powering a column-wheel 

chronograph. The rectangular 

chrono pushers are at 2 and 4 

o’clock; the square subdials at 3 and 6 

o’clock tally the chronograph minutes 

and hours, respectively, and the one at 

9 o’clock displays the running seconds. 

The watch has a power reserve of 52 

hours and is water-resistant to 100 meters. 

It has a transparent caseback and 

comes on a black alligator strap with 

folding clasp. Price: $7,800. 

Perrelet 

THREE YEARS AGO Perrelet introduced 

its first collection of titanium sports 

watches consisting of five pieces. This 

year, it is adding a sixth model to the collection. 

Perrelet’s 3 Hands Date Automatic 

displays the date via a window 

above the 6 o’clock numeral. Inside is a 

Swiss automatic movement, P-261, 

which vibrates 28,800 times per hour (4 

Hz) and has a power reserve of 40 hours. 

The watch’s case measures 43.5 mm in diameter 

and is water-resistant to 100 meters. 

It has a dial with shades of black and 

anthracite with luminous indices; it also 

sports the “Ti” symbol (for titanium). 

The crystal is nonreflective on the front 

and back. The watch comes with a natural 

black rubber strap with a titanium deployant 

buckle. The suggested retail price 

is $3,100. 


Oris 

DURING TESTING for the Oris ProDiver 

Chronograph in 2008, Oris enlisted the 

help of outside experts. One group Oris 

consulted was the Col Moschin regiment 

of the Italian Special Forces, one of the 

few special forces units in the world that 

operate on land, in the sea and in the air. 

Their input led to Oris’s new Col 

Moschin Limited Edition all-terrain 

watch. Oris says the watch has all the 

characteristics prized by the special 

forces: it is lightweight, nonreflective, 

highly water-resistant, antimagnetic, easily 

adjustable, and comfortable to wear. 

Oris will produce 2,000 pieces; the suggested 

retail price is $4,425. The watch 

has a 49-mm case made of titanium coated 

with gunmetal-gray DLC. It is waterresistant 

to 1,000 meters thanks to a 

screwed caseback and screw-down 

crown. In addition, the metal case is 

antimagnetic. The top ring is made 

of tungsten, making it durable 

and able to withstand extreme 

temperatures. It has a nonreflective 

matte finish. The watch has 

Oris’s patented Rotation Safety 

System introduced last year on 

the ProDiver Chronograph. 

The dive timer can only be set 

when the top ring is lifted. After 

setting, it can be relocked to the 

case to prevent an accidental adjustment 

to the bezel. The watch 

also contains an adjustable safety 

clasp that enables it to be worn over 

a wet suit, flight suit, or ski gloves. It 

can be lengthened or shortened quickly 

without having to remove the watch from 

the wrist.

WT_2010_04: BASELWORLD 2010: THE NEW WATCHES ...

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?