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Phalaenopsis Orchids: Dr Graham McKay

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PHALAENOPSIS ORCHIDS<br />

CULTURAL AND EXHIBITOR<br />

EXPERIENCE<br />

<strong>Dr</strong> <strong>Graham</strong><br />

<strong>McKay</strong><br />

Australian<br />

Director<br />

International<br />

<strong>Phalaenopsis</strong><br />

Alliance


DTPS SUNLANDS DIAMOND PEARL 'GIGI'


IN THEIR NATURAL HABITAT<br />

PHALAENOPSIS ORCHIDS ARE EITHER:<br />

•EPIPHYTIC [growing on trees]<br />

•Occasionally SAPROPHYTIC [growing on rocks]<br />

Species have a distribution throughout SE Asia<br />

from India through Indonesia to Northern<br />

Australia and north to China and Taiwan.


PHALAENOPSIS ORCHID GROWTH FACTS<br />

OFTEN IGNORED BY THE PUBLIC INCLUDE:<br />

<strong>Phalaenopsis</strong> orchid growth facts often ignored by the public<br />

include:<br />

•MONOPODIAL squat growth with NO major moisture storage<br />

mechanism, such as a pseudobulb and can only rely on their fleshy<br />

leaves and roots for moisture storage.<br />

•In more temperate Australian conditions, they are unable to grow<br />

outside on or under trees or on exposed verandas.<br />

•They require more protected conditions which provide warmth and<br />

humidity [plus air movement], such as:<br />

1.Waterproof covered greenhouse [with heating in winter in<br />

temperate climates].<br />

2.Indoors with suitable natural or artificial lighting. Indoors can<br />

be winter only or year round, depending on the available residence<br />

and climate.


PHALAENOPSIS ORCHIDS ARE POPULAR!<br />

Close to 70% of all the<br />

orchids grown in the<br />

world are <strong>Phalaenopsis</strong><br />

because:


FLOWERING<br />

•Can be all year round, especially<br />

when the environment can be<br />

easily manipulated with<br />

temperature and air flow.


6. CULTURE<br />

•Ease of culture making it<br />

possible to grow a small plant<br />

rapidly into an impressive<br />

specimen within 3 – 4 years.


6. EASE OF CULTURE


LOTS OF FLOWERS!<br />

•Floriferous presentation<br />

with some specimens<br />

having in excess of 20 x<br />

160mm (6 inch) flowers


FLORIFEROUS


GREAT RESULTS SOONER!<br />

•Hybridisation progress can<br />

be spectacular with<br />

generational improvements<br />

within 3 years from<br />

pollination to flowering.


9.<br />

•Colourful presentation<br />

means that <strong>Phalaenopsis</strong><br />

have a complete range of<br />

colours.


9. COLOURFUL


GREAT RANGE!<br />

•Excellent range of<br />

presentation with long, wellshingled<br />

inflorescences or<br />

miniatures with hundreds of<br />

beautiful flowers.


10. EXCELLENT PRESENTATION


11.COMPACT & EASILY TRANSPORTED


LAST WELL!<br />

•Flowers are long-lasting for<br />

3 to 4 months


PHALAENOPSIS ARE EASY TO BREED!<br />

•Genetics are well<br />

understood as many<br />

standard <strong>Phalaenopsis</strong> are<br />

Tetraploid (4N)


DIVERSITY:<br />

•Wonderful range of variety<br />

presentations


MY VARIETIES EXHIBITED MELBOURNE<br />

AOC 2009.


LOTS OF DIFFERENT SPECIES!<br />

•Spectacular species with<br />

approximately 80 species<br />

described


SPECTACULAR SPECIES<br />

P.equestris 'alba'<br />

P.amabilis 'Snowy<br />

Mountain' TIOS 2009


EXHIBITING CAN BE CHALLENGING!<br />

•Exhibition challenge is the pinnacle<br />

of the orchid hobby to grow and<br />

culture a specimen with a high<br />

flower count, in pristine condition.<br />

This could take 3 months from first<br />

flower opening. This difficulty is<br />

often not accommodated by our<br />

Awards Judging.


EXHIBITION CHALLENGE<br />

P.Sunlands New Rain-Dancer 'Warrigal'<br />

HCC AOC 2004, 7 flower s, 4 buds, 101x116<br />

77.7pts<br />

Phal.Sunlands New Raindancer 'Warrigal'<br />

AM AOC 2006, 1 2 flower s, 2 buds, 97x117<br />

82pts


16B.<br />

P. amabilis 'Ben Yu' AM AOC . 2008, 13<br />

flower s, 2 buds,65x74<br />

81 .8pts<br />

P . a m a b ilis ' B e n Y u ' A M A O C A M A O S. 2009, ‘ B e s t<br />

in Show’ A O C M e e t ing 2 3 open f lowers, m a in<br />

s t e m – lower b ranch 5 f lowers open<br />

N o A w a rd Improvement.


LIGHT<br />

•Light reduction needs to be 70 to<br />

85%<br />

•Waterproof cover required due to<br />

growing media water application<br />

requirements.<br />

•Moveable reflective screens vary<br />

light transmission and help heating<br />

requirement.


HUMIDITY<br />

•70% Ideal<br />

•Enough to maintain leaf texture and control<br />

fungal flower petal blight (spotting)<br />

•Gravel floors increase humidity by evaporation<br />

but can have pest and fungal hygiene<br />

negatives.<br />

•Concrete floors are more hygienic.<br />

•Good air movement using overhead or wall<br />

mounted fans or even natural convection from<br />

a sloped or peaked roof with sidewalls that<br />

can be opened or closed.


TEMPERATURE<br />

•Ideally 15 to 28 C<br />

•Above 28 C, humidity must be higher<br />

together with good air movement. Leaf<br />

growth becomes more elongated with<br />

higher temperature.<br />

•PLANTS MUST BE DRY-CROWN and LEAVES<br />

below 15 C. Otherwise tissue damage<br />

occurs on the soft tissue of leaves. If<br />

unchecked then plants die. In small<br />

collection, drying the central crown with<br />

tissue will prevent cold damage.


TEMPERATURE (CONT)<br />

•Less watering in Winter and<br />

water early in day where weather<br />

is sunny and predictable<br />

•Overhead or wall mounted fans<br />

with good air movement<br />

generally dries plants


OVERHEAD FANS WITH DOUBLE LAYER<br />

AMPELITE SHEETING


TEMPERATURE (CONT)<br />

•Double trapped air insulation or double<br />

sheeting aids temperature control.<br />

•Wet walls provide temperature control and<br />

humidity improvement.<br />

•Gas heating of air with NO exhaust gas into hot<br />

house OR use Heat Sink Floors.<br />

•<strong>Dr</strong>op temperature below 25 C for 3 weeks to<br />

induce flowering. Depending on whether a<br />

mericlone is HIGH or LOW temperature variety,<br />

seller can tell you percentage of spiking that<br />

will result.


GROWING MEDIA<br />

Each grower has his or her<br />

favourite growing media and I<br />

cannot count the number of<br />

members who have recounted<br />

how good their particular media<br />

works.<br />

The choice of media comes down<br />

to:


HOW CHOICE OF MEDIA IS MADE:<br />

1. Economics of the material.<br />

2. Size of the collection and the KISS principal (KEEP<br />

IT SIMPLE STUPID!)<br />

3. Local authority water restrictions.<br />

4. Time available to re-pot/watering<br />

5. Climate of the particular area.<br />

6. Availability of consistent supply E.g. Orchidmate<br />

7. Potential problems with the media.<br />

8. Quality of the water supply (PH and salt content).


BASICALLY THERE ARE 3 MOST<br />

COMMONLY USED MEDIA:<br />

1. Composted Pine Bark<br />

2. Sphagnum Moss<br />

3. Coconut Husk


COMPOSTED BARK<br />

Fame <strong>Orchids</strong>, in Brisbane, is using<br />

composted bark (SA) mixed with 20%<br />

Perlite. Results are excellent. Leaf<br />

shape suggests higher light and<br />

temperature in Summer


ELONGATED LIGHT GREEN LEAVES


COMPOSTED BARK<br />

Fame <strong>Orchids</strong> Phally House<br />

Fame <strong>Orchids</strong> Roof


COMPOSTED BARK (CONT)<br />

Fame <strong>Orchids</strong> uses dam water. All of the<br />

plants were mericlone varieties that I<br />

imported from Taiwan and sold to him in<br />

November 2011 growing in COCONUT<br />

HUSK. Fame uses a fertilizer sourced<br />

from Horticultural Solutions. Good root<br />

and leaf growth. Root growth into media<br />

and early spiking of plants in May 2012.


BARK - GOOD LEAF AND ROOT GROWTH


BARK – ROOT GROWTH INTO MEDIA


BARK – EARLY SPIKING IN MAY


SPHAGNUM MOSS<br />

• Sphagnum moss is the most widely used commercial media<br />

for growing <strong>Phalaenopsis</strong> <strong>Orchids</strong>.Mr Hung uses Chinese<br />

Sphagnum because University Analysis in Taiwan found the<br />

Carbon/Nitrogen Ratio was 66.8 for Chinese moss compared<br />

to 144.6 for moss from Chile. New Zealand moss is similar to<br />

Chile. As a consequence, Chinese moss will resist developing<br />

a lower pH over one year of use. Unfortunately Chinese<br />

Sphagnum moss is not available in Australia and Mr Hung<br />

would advise increasing the ORGANIC fertilizer usage to<br />

compensate.<br />

• TIPS ON USING SPHAGNUM MOSS:<br />

• Separate your moss growing areas from other media being<br />

employed in a collection of different orchids.<br />

• Moisten moss first then squeeze out all the water<br />

• Use smaller pots with moss and ideally clear pots which can be<br />

the flexible type.<br />

• Tweeze the moss up and then pack it tightly with 3 downward<br />

strokes with a moss level about one inch from the top.


SPAGNUM (CONT)<br />

•DO NOT WATER or FERTILISE for 3 to 4 weeks. New roots will<br />

begin to form during this period. You can fertilise after the<br />

new roots begin to form.<br />

•Once a month you should DOUBLE WATER. First time water<br />

to the top of the pot and allow time to drain through the<br />

media. The second time will flush out the salts.<br />

•Roots are green when wet and white when dry. When roots<br />

are dry half way up the pot, it is time to water again.<br />

•Extra drainage is provided by granulated foam in the base of<br />

the pot particularly where night temperatures are low.<br />

•Foliar feeding is used to prevent excess algae growth. HY-<br />

SAN [Horticultural Solutions] 1 ml per Litre can also control<br />

algae and bacteria.


SPHAGNUM (CONT)<br />

• pH of moss is 4.0 to 4.5 and this is a natural inhibitor of phytoflora.<br />

• Foliar feeding can be weekly in hot periods of summer and twice<br />

monthly during winter.<br />

• Root growth is less with moss.<br />

• Grow deflasked plants for one year and then repot. If the moss is still<br />

fine then you can repot by placing new moss around the existing root<br />

ball.<br />

• You can trim roots to keep the pot smaller. Trim the roots one day and<br />

then repot the next day, This allows the cut roots to dry slightly.<br />

• Use taller pots for potting on when using moss.<br />

• FERTILIZER used should be:<br />

• Mono potassium Phosphate 1 in 1000<br />

• Fish Extract and Seaweed Extract Mixture in the ratio of 5:2. This<br />

mixture is used in a dilution of 1 in 1000. The seaweed extract<br />

contains natural hormones [cytokinins, Auxins, gibberellins and<br />

Alginic Acid] which promote root growth, multiple basal growths and<br />

multiple flower spikes. This mixture is used by Mr Hung AS A FOLIAR<br />

APPLICATION.


COCONUT HUSK:<br />

I chose to experiment with this media because of<br />

economics, KISS principal and water restrictions in SE<br />

Queensland.<br />

Coconut Husk (Orchidmate TM, available from Tinonee<br />

<strong>Orchids</strong> and Easy <strong>Orchids</strong>), was apparently PH<br />

adjusted already. I additionally treated it as follows:<br />

• Soak in Cultiplex Solution for 48 hours to reduce salt<br />

content and to ensure PH of 6.0 to 6.5.<br />

• Wash 3 times with rainwater.<br />

• Soak in HY-SAN (3ml per litre) to sterilise and then<br />

drain.


COCONUT HUSK:<br />

I used:<br />

•Coconut Husk 3 to 1 granulated foam<br />

for 3 to 5mm and 5 to 8mm grades.<br />

•Pure Coconut Husk used in 8 to 12mm<br />

size.<br />

•Clear pots with small basal layer<br />

granulated foam for drainage and root<br />

photosynthesis.


FERTILIZER PROGRAM:<br />

1. HSO22 1g per litre weekly.<br />

2. Mid-week Seasol 1ml/litre as foliar application.<br />

3. 2 weeks later mid-week, SEASOL +PLUS 1ml/litre<br />

as a foliar application.<br />

4. 2 weeks later rotate the program.<br />

5. In APRIL I supplemented with AMINO K<br />

(Horticultural Solutions).<br />

6. We used rainwater only. You will need to account<br />

for salt content of your water supply as this will<br />

influence the Electrical Conductivity (EC) Value or<br />

Salt Retention of your media.


EXPERIMENT WITH SPHAGNUM &<br />

COCONUT HUSK<br />

•I completed a rough<br />

experiment using plantlets<br />

planted in Sphagnum Moss<br />

and others in Coconut Husk.


REMEMBER THESE RESULTS FROM MY OWN EARLY<br />

EXPERIENCES WITH COCONUT HUSK:<br />

Compot Seedling Growth 3 months<br />

over winter in Coconut Husk.<br />

Compot Growth 3 months<br />

over winter Coconut Husk


EARLY EXPERIENCES:<br />

Compots 3 months over<br />

Winter<br />

Coconut 3 months- violacea<br />

types


MORE EXAMPLES:<br />

Mericlones – singles 3<br />

mths over Winter<br />

Deflasked seedlings in New<br />

Coconut Husk 3 weeks show<br />

new leaf and root growth


FACTORS INFLUENCING RESULTS:<br />

•My experiment passed on with over<br />

5000 plants I gave onto another<br />

exhibitor, unfortunately he did not<br />

have a covered, waterproof area or<br />

a hothouse until May 2012. Heavy<br />

rain during the period prior to this,<br />

and cold weather, had a dramatic<br />

impact. However, I have been able<br />

to see significant results.


EXAMPLES:<br />

TS 2165 SAME CROSS Left<br />

Coconut , Right Moss.<br />

TS 2165 Coconut- more<br />

root growth


TS 2165<br />

SAME PLANTS AT 10 MONTHS AFTER REPOT 6 MONTHS


MORE EXAMPLES:<br />

TS 2344- 6 months-Coconut<br />

more root growth<br />

TSH-110 More root Growth<br />

Coconut, plants similar sizes.


MORE EXAMPLES:<br />

TSH-110- 10 Months-note gravel<br />

on Moss- roots through Coconut<br />

TS 2279- Gravel orange- roots<br />

penetrate Moss


GM 1283-GREY ROCK - ROOTS DON'T PENETRATE MOSS<br />

PHOTO 29


CONCLUSION:<br />

1. Surprising how good the Composted Bark<br />

was.<br />

2. Root Growth better in Coconut and Bark.<br />

3. All these are fine substrate media,<br />

provided you use them according to their<br />

potential.<br />

4. Re-pot <strong>Phalaenopsis</strong> often to achieve<br />

better growth. Any media problems are<br />

then overcome. This is probably more true<br />

for Moss and Coconut Husk.


CAUGHT IN THE ACT. NOTE- TOP LEFT- P. DENDI'S MEH-TEH 'GIGI


21A. INSERT PHOTOS 31 & 32<br />

Phal Dendi's Meh-Teh 'GiGi'.<br />

P. Dendi's Meh-Teh 'GiGi<br />

No2' is a perfect Big Lip


P. DENDI’S HIGADON ‘WARRIGAL’


BIG LIP BREEDING:<br />

We should be very grateful for this line of<br />

breeding started by Dennis Diehm of<br />

Dendi <strong>Orchids</strong>, NSW. I have used all these<br />

plants, plus others from Taiwan in<br />

extensive Big Lip Breeding.<br />

Contact: Mr Barry Kable (Peter’s Glen<br />

Green Houses, Qld) if you wish to<br />

purchase any of my flasks.


I WILL MISS MY BREEDING, THESE WILL<br />

NEVER TO BE SEEN AGAIN!<br />

Big Lip Harlequin


MORE EXAMPLES OF MY BREEDING:<br />

GM736 Dtps Sunlands Pipe Queen<br />

'Warrigal' X[ P.Carolina Spring Beauty X<br />

Dtps King Shiang's Rose]<br />

Dtps [P.Sunlands Rain Dancer X Sunlands<br />

Gif t] X Dtps Sunlands Spring<br />

'Queenslander' HCC AOC.


MORE EXAMPLES OF MY BREEDING:<br />

Dtps Sunlands Pink Pearl<br />

'GiGi.<br />

Dtps Sunlands Mini Pearl


LIFE AFTER ORCHIDS!<br />

My son Matt <strong>McKay</strong> - Socceroo


TRAVEL!


COLLECTING INDIGENOUS ART!<br />

Molly Rogers<br />

Harry Tjutjuna


ENJOYING BEING GRANDAD!


TIME TO RELAX!

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