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Orchid Growing Substrates

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The idea was to develop a process that would make a bark that retains water from the<br />

beginning, without composting it (the composting would remove the resins, and organic<br />

acids, but it would degrade the chemicals that make the bark structure, mostly lignin and<br />

cellulose, hemicellulose). Some components in the bark will promote growth, such as<br />

dihydroabietic acid and other diterpenes. The monoterpens however do not promote growth,<br />

and some are suspected to be growth inhibitors as well, the same for some of the other<br />

compounds. By designing a process where composting is not involved, which would shorten<br />

the lifespan of the bark and destroy a lot of valuable compounds, it was possible to make a<br />

bark that is remarkably stable over some years, is on one side chemically neutral, but on the<br />

other side buffered to a pH suitable for plant culture. That’s where Orchiata started to be<br />

produced. It is not bark anymore, as the raw Pinus radiata is not reliable enough to be used<br />

on a lot of species, owing to its water repelling properties at first, and its contents of some<br />

compounds that only some acid loving plants can withstand, until they are overcome by the<br />

feeding over some weeks. The design was to make a water absorbent, pH buffered product<br />

that would be very long lasting, by not destroying the cellulose/lignin/hemicellulose structure,<br />

and removing just what was not required. It is now called Orchiata.<br />

When Xavier started to use it as a grower, I had extensive experience with the European<br />

barks, and even some US sources of Douglas fir bark. In those days, to keep the plants<br />

growing, it was required to add some water retaining materials, lime, PG Mix (a slow release<br />

type fertilizer for potting mix manufacturers predominantly) and repot after some months. It<br />

was not possible to keep the plant at its peak growth. A lot of potting mixes analysis and foliar<br />

analysis showed some problem of toxicities, which were mentioned even by some of the<br />

largest orchid growers in Europe as something that could not be avoided. Trying to see how<br />

long Orchiata can be used, some plants were left not repotted for some months, unlike the<br />

typical schedule of every 6 months repotting. Some years later, some just had to be repotted,<br />

but the Orchiata chips did not change, and the toxic effects that were experienced with the<br />

European bark did not show up. The Orchiata really looked the same after some years, and<br />

there was nearly no noticeable decomposition. With the European bark, it would have been<br />

nearly impossible to keep the plants growing so long without repotting.<br />

Other materials to make the potting mix<br />

- Charcoal is often used. Its use is not really clear and depending on the wood used to produce the<br />

charcoal and the heating temperature, its composition will vary greatly. Charcoal tends to be acidic to<br />

start with, and after a while it will accumulate salts at its surface. It is used successfully as big chunks<br />

of 4-6cm and more in Asia for the culture of some Vandaceous types and dendrobium. Some growers<br />

grow their Paphiopedilum in charcoal and huge pieces of coconut husk, using water from limestone<br />

cliffs and are successful, but it is not practical, and not so common to see such setups.<br />

- Isolite, haydite, crushed brick are a few examples of other marginally used potting mix ingredients.<br />

- There are a lot of strange things, or logical things, that are sometimes used, dried palm leaf, dried<br />

beech leaf or oak leaf, hemp straw to name a few. All of those have been used at one point or<br />

another.<br />

Xavier Garreau de Loubresse<br />

28

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