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Objectives Measurement of Light Light Meters Contrast Ratio Lamps ...

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<strong>Objectives</strong><br />

• sufficient amount <strong>of</strong> illumination<br />

• 3-dimensional look<br />

• guide viewer's attention<br />

• establish mood<br />

• aesthetic look<br />

<strong>Measurement</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Light</strong><br />

• footcandles = amt <strong>of</strong> lt falling on a sphere 1 ft from a lt source <strong>of</strong> 1 candlepower.<br />

• lux (European measurement): 10 lux = 1 ftcdl<br />

<strong>Light</strong> <strong>Meters</strong><br />

• Incident: amount <strong>of</strong> light falling onto a particular person or area <strong>of</strong> a set.<br />

• Reflected: amount <strong>of</strong> light reflected by subject<br />

• Spot Meter: for a small, specific spot.<br />

• Automatic Metering Systems<br />

<strong>Contrast</strong> <strong>Ratio</strong><br />

• brightness vs darkness within a scene. 30:1:1<br />

• monitors to help exposure, especially for video.<br />

<strong>Lamps</strong><br />

• Tungsten: basic, color temp and output changes as ages<br />

• Quartz-Halogen: burns at constant color temp and light output<br />

• Power: watt x volts = amps<br />

Color Temperature (degree Kelvin): different mixtures <strong>of</strong> visible light<br />

• 3200º K: studio lighting, bright yellow<br />

• 5500º K: sun, daylight<br />

• 10,000º K: noontime<br />

• 4500º K (approximate): sky at sunset, reddish hues<br />

Balancing for Video<br />

White Balance: for video, to get proper color rendition.<br />

• use appropriate filter wheel<br />

Balancing for Film: choice <strong>of</strong> film stock<br />

• film balanced for daylight = outdoor. Can use this indoors w/ an 85 filter (reddish).<br />

• film balanced for lights (tungsten) = indoor


<strong>Light</strong>s<br />

Spotlights: fresnels, ellipsoidal, lensless spots, HMI (outdoor use), follow spots<br />

Floodlights: scoop, s<strong>of</strong>t, broads, strip<br />

Control Beam <strong>of</strong> <strong>Light</strong><br />

Barndoors<br />

Snoots<br />

Flags: rectangular metal pieces to block part <strong>of</strong> light<br />

Shutters: for lekos<br />

Cookies<br />

Control <strong>Light</strong> Intensity<br />

Scrims/spun/screens<br />

Diffusion material<br />

• silk: white artificial material, cuts down volume <strong>of</strong> light, have metal frames<br />

• net: looks like mosquito netting, diffuse lighting slightly, less than scrims<br />

• frost & tough white: milky-looking gels (cellophane-like material)<br />

<strong>Light</strong>ing Methods<br />

3-Point: Key / Fill / Back - keep in mind, indoors & out, use sun<br />

Available <strong>Light</strong>: note where light is coming from<br />

Camera Placement: note best areas and consider that when placing your camera<br />

Windows: don't shoot with window in background = silhouette, unless going for that<br />

effect<br />

• Blue filter or light-blue color gel: to raise the color temp <strong>of</strong> indoor light to outdoor<br />

light (3200º K to 5600º K)<br />

• <strong>Light</strong>-Orange filter material to window: to lower outdoor lt (3200º K to 5500º K)<br />

Sun: don't shoot at it = silhouette. Use it as key.<br />

Reflector Boards: use to bounce light to subject. Large white boards, crinkled foil.<br />

Time <strong>of</strong> Day: consider best time <strong>of</strong> day. 11 am-2 pm can be difficult due to intense sun.<br />

• early morning/late afternoon: greater sense <strong>of</strong> relief, more dramatic image<br />

• color tones: different at different times <strong>of</strong> day, warmer in late afternoon<br />

Fall<strong>of</strong>f: the degree <strong>of</strong> change from light to shadow<br />

• Slow: more gradual change<br />

• Fast: abrupt change from light to shadow, high contrast<br />

Film-Style <strong>Light</strong>ing<br />

Changes for every shot.<br />

Work with stocks, can shoot with lower light levels. Greater contrast range.


<strong>Light</strong>ing For Movement<br />

<strong>Light</strong>ing plot: diagram <strong>of</strong> set that shows camera position, location <strong>of</strong> lights, their size, type<br />

and direction.<br />

Easiest way: illuminate the entire area with s<strong>of</strong>t, diffused lighting.<br />

Common way: 3-point in areas needed, fill in gaps w/ fill light.<br />

Overlapping: areas <strong>of</strong> key, fill, back.<br />

• Use same lights for different purposes.<br />

• Use meters: incident and reflective<br />

To Avoid Shadows: more pronounced against a light-colored backgrd.<br />

• Adjust lights to a different angle.<br />

• Place shadows out <strong>of</strong> frame.<br />

• Place actors further away from wall.<br />

• Use flags or barndoors to block <strong>of</strong>f light that is causing shadow.<br />

• Move boom or don't use it.<br />

• Change quality <strong>of</strong> light: diffuse, s<strong>of</strong>ten<br />

<strong>Light</strong>ing <strong>Ratio</strong>: relates to the ratio <strong>of</strong> the key to the fill.<br />

Film: most common is 3:1 (has a 1 1/2 f-stop difference)<br />

Video: 2:1 or 3:1.<br />

High-key lighting: bright, even illumination. Key-to-fill is low, low-contrast. Bright,<br />

happy and relatively flat.<br />

Low-key lighting: shadowy. Key-to-fill is high, high-contrast. Darker, brooding, harsh.<br />

Emotional impact <strong>of</strong> lighting: depends on direction, angle, quality (hard or s<strong>of</strong>t).<br />

Front: tends to reduce shadows and flatten image. If s<strong>of</strong>t & diffused, smoothes out the<br />

texture <strong>of</strong> surface illuminated.<br />

Side: sharper shadows. Models the subject and can highlight the texture with small<br />

shadows.<br />

Back: emphasizes depth.<br />

Angled: from above or below create more distinct, dramatic shadows.<br />

Use fewer lights what with faster lenses and more sensitive imaging systems.

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