TEGOSPHERE® VitA - Quetzal Quimica

TEGOSPHERE ® VitA
Encapsulated Retinol
for Highly Effective Cosmetic Applications
• Based on the new TEGOSPHERE ®
encapsulation technology
• Innovative release mechanism which responses
to the skin’s natural pH
• High protection against degradation and activity
loss of Retinol
• Optimized bio-availability of Retinol
Goldschmidt Personal Care
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INCI-Name
Acrylates/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate
Copolymer, Aluminium Tristearate, Retinol,
Polysorbate 20
Chemical and physical properties
(not part of the specification)
Form
Small off-white
microparticles
Active ingredients play a pivotal role in modern
cosmetic formulations. However, many effective
active ingredients are disposed to the
disadvantage of decomposition. Additionally,
incompatibilities with other ingredients in a final
cosmetic formulation may occur.
Thus such sensitive active ingredients need to
be protected. Encapsulation and controlled
release technology may offer innovative ways
to circumvent potential hurdles. In general,
there are two main release systems in
cosmetics: The encapsulated ingredient may be
released mechanically or diffusion-controlled.
The disadvantage of the mechanically opened
capsules lies in an uncontrollable mechanism
for the “rub-in”. As a consequence, a reduced
amount of active ingredients may be delivered.
The diffusion-controlled release, on the other
hand, possesses only a moderate stabilizing
effect, because it releases part of the active
ingredient due to the diffusion equilibrium.
Furthermore, the capsule material may be
sensitive to shear forces during the formulation
process, temperature or depending on their
chemical composition even to microbiological
attack.
TEGOSPHERE ®
TEGOSPHERE ® is a new and intelligent
delivery system consisting of microcapsules
which respond to the skin’s natural pH, the
acidic mantle.
The shell material of TEGOSPHERE ® is a pHsensitive
aminofunctional methacrylate
copolymer based on n-Butylmethacrylate,
2-Dimethylaminomethacrylate and Methylmethacrylate
(Eudragit ® E100, Fig. 1a, page 3).
Protonation at pH 5 (Fig. 1b) initiates the
disintegration of the copolymer in which it
begins to swell and to become permeable.
So, TEGOSPHERE ® consists of a polymer with
a defined pH-triggered release mechanism. The
advantages of this new concept of ingredient
delivery are (1) minimized diffusion out of the
capsules, (2) stability of the material against
shear forces and (3) thermodynamic stability.
Furthermore, TEGOSPHERE ® provides a
controlled delivery of ingredients upon
application on human skin. The breakdown of
the microcapsules is triggered upon contact
with the skin and the release of the
encapsulated active ingredient begins. With this
pH-sensitive polymer as a “protective mantle” a
vast array of active cosmetic ingredients such
as vitamins or antioxidants can be stabilized
against their environment, and can be released
specifically at the desired target site – the skin.
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[ [ ][
]
O
Fig. 1a: Aminofunctional Methacrylate
Copolymer
[ [ ][
]
O
H
Fig. 1b: Protonated shell material
Retinol
] o
m n
OO
] o
m n
OO
O
O
N
O
O
N+
Due to its well-known influence on skin cell
differentiation, retinol is a recognized active
ingredient for the application in anti-aging
products. It improves the appearance of the
skin and smoothes fine lines and wrinkles. So,
until now, retinol is the “golden standard” for its
influence on skin cell growth, development and
finally the structural integrity of the skin. In
addition, it acts against UV-induced skin-aging.
Despite the benefits, retinol causes problems in
its pure form due to its sensitivity to heat, light
and oxygen. To circumvent the instability retinol
esters are available on the market. But here the
disadvantage of the stable product is the weak
efficacy.
O
O
TEGOSPHERE ® VitA is retinol encapsulated
into the TEGOSPHERE ® delivery system to
provide stable retinol for cosmetic application.
Stability of TEGOSPHERE ® VitA
To confirm the stability of the encapsulated
retinol in comparison to the pure form, several
stability tests were performed detecting the
amount of retinol with HPLC.
Figure 2 shows the UV stability before and after
1 hour stored in a sun simulator where the UV
exposure is accelerated 6fold compared with
the natural UV irradiation.
Retinol [%]
100
80
60
40
20
0
Pure retinol
TEGOSPHERE
VitA
Fig. 2: UV stability of TEGOSPHERE ® VitA
While only 20 % of the pure retinol remained
after UV irradiation, the encapsulated form
TEGOSPHERE ® VitA retains more than 70 % of
retinol.
Due to the findings that the encapsulation of
retinol maintains more than 70 % of retinol, a
standard O/W formulation containing 1.5 %
TEGOSPHERE ® VitA was stored for three
months at 45°C. Before and after the storage
the content of retinol has been determined with
HPLC. The results are summarized in Figure 3.
While only 10 % of the pure retinol was
recovered, TEGOSPHERE ® VitA retained more
than 70 % of retinol (Fig. 3).
0h
1h
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Retinol [%]
100
80
60
40
20
0
Pure retinol
TEGOSPHERE
VitA
0 weeks
12 weeks
No retinol could be detected in the receptor fluid
demonstrating that retinol of both test
formulations only penetrated into the epidermis.
After running the penetration study the
remaining content of retinol on the skin was
rinsed off, collected and analysed. The skin
pieces were chopped, extracted and analysed,
as well.
Fig. 4 shows the amount of retinol found in the
skin extracts.
Fig. 3: Thermal stability of a final O/W cream
It was shown that the encapsulated retinol in
form of TEGOSPHERE ® VitA increases the
storage stability in the final cosmetic
formulation efficiently.
Efficacy study: Penetration into the skin
The determination of cutaneous permeation
into porcine skin was performed at the Institute
Dr. Schrader, Holzminden (D) (5).
Fresh porcine skin layers with a thickness of
approx. 1000 µm consisting of the horny layer
and epidermis was punched in circular pieces
suitable for the diffusion chamber.
The diffusion chambers are placed in a climatic
incubator (32°C, 50-60 % rel. humidity).
During the experiment a receptor fluid flows
with a flow rate of 5 ml/h through the chambers.
The skin pieces were placed in the diffusion
chambers stratum corneum-up, so that the
epidermis is rinsed with the receptor fluid. A
defined amount of an O/W formulation
containing pure retinol as a reference and
TEGOSPHERE ® VitA with the same amount of
retinol was applied on the stratum corneum side
of the skin pieces.
During the whole experiments over 24 hours
the epidermal side was rinsed with receptor
fluid. The receptor fluid was collected and the
amount of substance that penetrated through
the skin was determined by HPLC.
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Fig. 4: Amount of retinol analysed in the skin
extract
It was shown that the penetration profile of
TEGOSPHERE ® VitA is even better than of the
pure retinol. It proves the excellent performance
of TEGOSPHERE ® VitA as encapsulated retinol
in comparison to the pure ingredient.
Details of the applied method are available on request.
Application
Pure retinol
• Anti-ageing formulations
• Skin soothing formulations
• After sun products
Suggested usage concentration
0.5 % - 4.0 % TEGOSPHERE ® VitA
Tegosphere VitA
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Preparation of emulsions
Due to the opening of the capsules at the skin’s
pH, the formulations should possess a final pH
of above 6.
For best results the use of non-ionic emulsifiers
like TEGO ® Care 165 and/ or cationic
emulsifiers like VARISOFT ® TA 100 is
recommended. It is advisable not to combine
TEGOSPHERE ® VitA in formulations with anionic
ingredients (e.g. anionic polymers such as
neutralized polyacrylates) as inhomogeneities might
appear.
After addition of TEGOSPHERE ® VitA at
temperatures below 40°C the final formulation
should be homogenized for a short time in
order to guarantee that the spheres are well
dispersed in the formulation.
Alternatively to the addition of the pure
capsules, it is possible to add an oily dispersion
of TEGOSPHERE ® VitA (e.g. up to 20%
capsules in TEGOSOFT ® OP) to the final
formulation at temperatures below 40°C with a
subsequent homogenization step.
Depending on formulation type and production
equipment this procedure might result in an
improved dispersability of TEGOSPHERE ® VitA
in the formulation.
Hazardous goods classification
Information concerning
− classification and labelling according to
regulations for transport and for dangerous
substances
− protective measures for storage and
handling
− measures in accidents and fires
− toxicity and ecological effects
Guideline Formulations
Facial Anti-Aging O/W Cream with
“Vitamin A on Demand”
GL 70
Phase A
TEGO ® Care 165
6.00 %
(Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate)
TEGO ® Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) 3.00 %
TEGOSOFT ® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 3.00 %
TEGOSOFT ® DEC
6.50 %
(Diethylhexyl Carbonate)
Phase B
Glycerin 3.00 %
Water 73.5 %
Phase C
TEGOSPHERE ® VitA 1.50 %
TEGOSOFT ® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 3.50 %
Phase Z
Preservative, Parfum
q.s.
Preparation:
1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 70-
75°C.
2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring. 1)
3. Homogenize.
4. Cool with gentle stirring.
5. Disperse TEGOSPHERE ® VitA in oil and add
phase C below 40°C.
6. Homogenize for a short time.
1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the
vessel first, phase B must be added without
stirring.
is given in our material safety data sheets.
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Facial O/W Cream for Mature Skin
WR 5/05-16
Phase A
VARISOFT ® TA 100
3.00 %
(Distearyldimonium Chloride)
TEGIN ® M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) 2.00 %
TEGO ® Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) 1.00 %
TEGOSOFT ® DEC
5.00 %
(Diethylhexyl Carbonate)
TEGOSOFT ® CT
(Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
7.00 %
TEGOSOFT ® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 5.00 %
TEGOSOFT ® CR (Cetyl Ricinoleate) 1.80 %
Ceramide III (Ceramide 3) 0.10 %
Phytosphingosine SLC
0.10 %
(Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine)
Phase B
Glycerin 3.00 %
Water 70.5 %
Phase C
TEGOSPHERE ® VitA 1.50 %
Phase Z
Preservative, Parfum
q.s.
Preparation:
1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 90°C.
2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring. 1)
3. Homogenize.
4. Cool with gentle stirring.
5. Add phase C below 40°C and homogenize for a
short time.
1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the
vessel first, phase B must be added without
stirring.
C 03/06
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