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Autumn 2010<br />

eographer<br />

The<br />

The newsletter of the <strong>Royal</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Geographical</strong> <strong>Society</strong><br />

A rocky situation for wildlife?<br />

Taking stock of biodiversity and geodiversity<br />

In This Edition...<br />

• News Features:<br />

Christchurch After the<br />

Earthquake, Iceland<br />

After the Eruption<br />

• Country in Focus:<br />

Pakistan After the<br />

Floods<br />

• Expert Views on<br />

Biodiversity &<br />

Geodiversity<br />

• James Croll - A<br />

Forgotten Genius?<br />

• Off the Beaten Track:<br />

Chasing the Devil<br />

• Reader Offer:<br />

High Light<br />

HIGH LIGHT<br />

A V I S I O N O F W I L D S C O T L A N D<br />

“It seems to me that the natural world is the greatest<br />

source of excitement; the greatest source of visual beauty;<br />

the greatest source of intellectual interest. It is the greatest<br />

source of so much in life that makes life worth living.”<br />

Sir David Attenborough, RSGS Livingstone Medallist<br />

C O L I N P R I O R<br />

plus other news,<br />

comments, books...<br />

RSGS – Making Connections between People, Places & the Planet


The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong><br />

biodiversity & geodiversity<br />

It has been reassuring to see the development<br />

of the Fair Maid’s House proceeding as it is. We<br />

can now see clearly the four spaces that we will<br />

have available to bring to a wider public, not only<br />

the history of the <strong>Society</strong> but also the continuing<br />

importance of geography, particularly in view of the<br />

global issues faced by this and future generations.<br />

Work is proceeding on the interpretation and display<br />

elements of these spaces which will, of course,<br />

include the fascinating history of the building itself.<br />

However, never has it been more important to demonstrate<br />

that we have not inherited the planet from our parents but<br />

that we are simply looking after it for our children.<br />

Our small staff at headquarters have expanded to four and<br />

a half, thanks to a generous anonymous donation from a<br />

member who correctly recognised that this is a critical time<br />

for the <strong>Society</strong>. And, as a regular visitor to Perth, I can tell<br />

you that the <strong>Society</strong> is fortunate to have such committed and<br />

enthusiastic employees.<br />

But they cannot, of course, do everything. Mike tells me that<br />

he has calculated the work of all the volunteers in the <strong>Society</strong><br />

equates to almost the same as our staff in headquarters. And I<br />

was reminded again of a comment by one of my predecessors,<br />

“If it wasn’t for the volunteers, Barrie, the <strong>Society</strong> would be<br />

finished”.<br />

I cannot thank them enough; none receive payment for their<br />

services and many do not even claim the expenses to which<br />

they are entitled. All, however, share our conviction that the<br />

<strong>Society</strong> got it right all these years ago, and that it is now even<br />

more important to continue to pursue its objective of inspiring<br />

people to develop a greater understanding of all the issues<br />

affecting our planet.<br />

The Fair Maid’s House development will give the <strong>Society</strong><br />

the best opportunity yet to promote its aims to a wider<br />

public, but for this we will need even more volunteers. I ask<br />

you all to give serious consideration to putting your name<br />

forward to help. All of our current volunteers enjoy making<br />

a contribution, in whatever way they do, and I can promise<br />

that you will all be given appropriate training before the time<br />

comes (currently expected to be around late spring 2011). If<br />

you are interested in helping, please just give your name to<br />

headquarters.<br />

I conclude my comments with another of my ‘straws in the<br />

wind’. Last week, Fiona told me that she had recruited three<br />

new members who had rung our doorbell and said they were<br />

interested in joining the <strong>Society</strong>. It cannot be anything but a<br />

good sign.<br />

Barrie Brown, Chairman<br />

RSGS, Lord John Murray House,<br />

15-19 North Port, Perth, PH1 5LU<br />

tel: 01738 455050<br />

email: enquiries@rsgs.org<br />

www.rsgs.org<br />

Charity registered in Scotland no SC015599<br />

The views expressed in this newsletter are not necessarily those of the RSGS.<br />

Cover image: Grand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming (part image)<br />

© Yann Arthus-Bertrand<br />

Masthead image: Japanese macaques bathing in Jigokudani hot spring<br />

© www.istockphoto.com<br />

Yann Arthus-Bertrand Receives<br />

Inaugural Geddes Environment Medal<br />

Yann Arthus-Bertrand, the legendary photographer, journalist, reporter<br />

and environmentalist, came to the Edinburgh Filmhouse in September<br />

to accept the inaugural RSGS Geddes Environment Medal, and to<br />

speak at a screening of his award winning documentary film, Home.<br />

The evening was a great success and, addressing the audience,<br />

RSGS Chief Executive Mike Robinson gave a few of the reasons Yann<br />

was chosen for the accolade, stating “We require to be continually<br />

reminded of our place in nature, to be mindful of the beauty and<br />

fragility of our planet, and to be inspired to want to protect it... Yann<br />

has captured that beauty, reminded us of that fragility, and enthralled<br />

millions of people in more than a hundred nations around the world,<br />

inspiring them to make the connections between people, places and<br />

the planet and to work towards positive long-term change.”<br />

HQ Open Day<br />

Work on the Fair Maid’s<br />

House is progressing<br />

well, and is expected to<br />

finish in early November,<br />

a little behind the original<br />

schedule because of<br />

under-pinning required<br />

on the existing old wall.<br />

To coincide with the Ray<br />

Mears event in Perth, the<br />

RSGS headquarters at<br />

Lord John Murray House<br />

will be opening its doors<br />

from 2.00pm to 4.30pm<br />

on 28th October 2010,<br />

giving members the<br />

opportunity to visit the<br />

HQ, to learn more about<br />

the development of the<br />

Fair Maid’s House project,<br />

and to get an insight into<br />

some of the other work of<br />

the <strong>Society</strong>.<br />

RSGS – Making Connections between People, Places & the Planet


NEWS People • Places • Planet<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 1<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

Vultures<br />

The scale of the<br />

Asian vulture<br />

problem is<br />

immense, with<br />

populations down<br />

by more than 96% since the early<br />

1990s, and several species critically<br />

threatened with extinction in the<br />

near future. The white-rumped<br />

vulture was so abundant in India in<br />

the 1980s, that it was probably the<br />

most common large bird of prey in<br />

the world. Only one in a thousand<br />

now survives.<br />

The services provided by vultures<br />

in cleaning up large carcasses<br />

were taken for granted until the<br />

birds were gone. Now there are<br />

huge health issues, and economic<br />

and cultural losses. Conservation<br />

organisations have been pressing<br />

for a total ban on the use of<br />

veterinary diclofenac (which causes<br />

kidney failure in vultures who eat<br />

Betting on Food<br />

RSGS staff were particularly<br />

concerned to hear the recent<br />

reports highlighting the increased<br />

price of chocolate after financial<br />

speculators moved in to the<br />

cocoa markets. But the actions of<br />

speculators are also influencing<br />

the price of other more basic<br />

foodstuffs.<br />

Research published at the end of<br />

July by the World Development<br />

Movement (WDM) shows that<br />

financial speculation on the future<br />

price of food creates instability,<br />

pushes up global food prices and<br />

is forcing millions into poverty and<br />

malnutrition.<br />

Jim Carson OBE FRSGS<br />

We are delighted<br />

that Jim Carson’s<br />

long-term dedication<br />

and outstanding<br />

contribution to<br />

geographical<br />

education in Scotland has been<br />

formally recognised, with the<br />

awarding of the Order of the British<br />

Empire in the Queen’s birthday<br />

honours list of May 2010.<br />

the carcasses of recently treated<br />

cattle), and have established<br />

captive breeding centres where<br />

birds can be reared before release<br />

into areas where diclofenac is no<br />

longer a threat.<br />

Some progress is being made,<br />

but it is slow. Diclofenac has<br />

been banned in some countries,<br />

but is still used in others. In July,<br />

for the first time, all three of<br />

the critically endangered Gyps<br />

vultures successfully bred and<br />

fledged young in captive breeding<br />

centres in India – but there were<br />

only ten young in total. And in<br />

September, the annual census of<br />

vultures in Cambodia showed that<br />

three species were stable or even<br />

increasingly slightly, giving hope<br />

that Cambodia can act as a refuge,<br />

and eventually a source from which<br />

the vultures can spread out and<br />

repopulate all of Asia – but the total<br />

number for all three species was<br />

less than 300.<br />

Liz Murray, head of campaigns for<br />

WDM in Scotland said, “Bankers<br />

are quite literally gambling on<br />

hunger. In 2007-8 there was a<br />

huge rise in food prices fuelled by<br />

financial speculation; the price of<br />

wheat shot up dramatically by 80%<br />

and maize by 90%. These sudden<br />

price hikes are catastrophic for the<br />

world’s poor who spend most of<br />

their income on food.”<br />

WDM is calling for regulation of<br />

the food commodity markets and<br />

for strict limits on the amount that<br />

bankers can bet on food prices. To<br />

find out more about WDM’s food<br />

speculation campaign, see www.<br />

wdm.org.uk.<br />

Jim’s tremendous efforts towards<br />

the teaching and encouragement<br />

of geography in Scotland and<br />

further afield, his work on behalf<br />

of RSGS as chair of the education<br />

committee and in running the<br />

schools essay competition for<br />

30 years, and his crucial role in<br />

establishing and developing the<br />

<strong>Scottish</strong> Association of Geography<br />

Teachers into the successful body<br />

that it is today, make his OBE richly<br />

deserved.<br />

2010 is the<br />

International Year<br />

of Biodiversity, and<br />

fittingly this year is<br />

the tenth meeting<br />

of the Conference of the Parties (COP) to the<br />

Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD). From 18th<br />

to 29th October, Nagoya in Japan will play host to<br />

officials from 193 countries, seeking to agree how<br />

to tackle biodiversity loss, to set targets for the next<br />

ten years, and to develop a vision for 2050.<br />

The Convention has three main objectives:<br />

1 Conservation of biological diversity<br />

2 Sustainable use of its components<br />

3 Fair and equitable sharing of benefits arising from<br />

genetic resources<br />

In August, Ahmed Djoghlaf, Executive Secretary<br />

of the CBD, told a high level forum in Chengdu,<br />

China, “The target set by world governments in<br />

2002, ‘to achieve by 2010 a significant reduction<br />

of the current rate of biodiversity loss at the global,<br />

regional and national level’, has not been met. …<br />

No government claims to have completely met<br />

the 2010 biodiversity target. Indeed, the current<br />

biodiversity statistics are as worrying as ever.<br />

Species that have been assessed for extinction risk<br />

are on average moving closer to extinction. … The<br />

five principal pressures directly driving biodiversity<br />

loss (habitat change, overexploitation, pollution,<br />

invasive alien species and climate change) are either<br />

constant or increasing in intensity.”<br />

Ray Mears to visit Perth<br />

Bushcraft expert and star of recent ITV<br />

series Survival, Ray Mears is bringing his<br />

unique one-man show to Perth Concert<br />

Hall at 8.00pm on 28th October 2010.<br />

Ray will also be presented with the<br />

RSGS Mungo Park Medal, in recognition<br />

of his work in adventure travel and his<br />

distinguished contribution to popularising geographical<br />

issues. In his turn, Ray has agreed to present the 2010<br />

RSGS University Medals, given to the best<br />

graduating honours geography student in<br />

each of the <strong>Scottish</strong> universities.<br />

28 th<br />

October<br />

Tickets (£15 for RSGS members, £21 for nonmembers)<br />

are available from Perth Concert Hall<br />

(www.horsecross.co.uk or phone 01738 621031).<br />

Bio- & Geodiversity<br />

Inspiring Sponsors We are grateful for the financial support we have received so far from our generous sponsors,<br />

towards the 2010-11 Inspiring People programme of illustrated talks. Our appreciation goes to Airdrie Savings Bank, Glasgow<br />

City Council, The Green Insurance Company, Hillhouse Quarry Group, Magnox North, Neilson Binnie-McKenzie, and <strong>Scottish</strong><br />

Power. Thanks also to Spex Direct Scotland, which supported the RSGS Dunfermline Centre’s traveller’s talk in September.


NEWS People • Places • Planet<br />

Finding the<br />

target<br />

RSGS’s Chief Executive<br />

was asked by Stewart<br />

Stevenson MSP, the<br />

Minister for Transport,<br />

Infrastructure & Climate<br />

Change, to chair a<br />

<strong>Scottish</strong> Parliamentary<br />

Short-life Working<br />

Group this summer,<br />

to find a resolution to<br />

the setting of annual<br />

targets in carbon<br />

emissions, after the<br />

proposals presented<br />

to the Parliament by<br />

the SNP back in June<br />

were thrown out. This<br />

group, of MSPs and<br />

civil servants, reviewed<br />

the basis for target<br />

setting and the sorts<br />

of measures that will<br />

be needed to achieve<br />

a 42% reduction in<br />

greenhouse gases by<br />

2020, and considered<br />

what was currently<br />

being proposed, what<br />

else could be added,<br />

and whether any form<br />

of action had been<br />

overlooked.<br />

The group has<br />

now concluded its<br />

deliberations and the<br />

Minister is expected<br />

to bring a new<br />

proposal in front of the<br />

relevant Committee,<br />

and ultimately<br />

the Parliament, in<br />

late autumn. The<br />

Government is working<br />

with a number of bodies<br />

and advisory groups,<br />

including the 2020<br />

Business Leaders Group<br />

(on which Mike also has<br />

a seat) to develop the<br />

next step, the Report<br />

on Policies & Proposals<br />

(RPP), which will lay out<br />

the Government’s plan<br />

of exactly how it intends<br />

to reach these targets<br />

from now until 2022.<br />

New Staff<br />

Member<br />

Thanks to a<br />

donation from<br />

a generous<br />

member, the<br />

RSGS has been<br />

able to appoint a much needed staff<br />

member to assist with the talks<br />

programme, media, the website and<br />

in supporting Susan and Mike in<br />

producing The <strong>Geographer</strong>. Kirsten<br />

Smith joined us on 10th June,<br />

having graduated from Glasgow<br />

Caledonian University in 2009 with a<br />

degree in Media & Communications.<br />

Kirsten has previously worked in PR,<br />

and volunteered for six months with<br />

Conservation Volunteers Australia<br />

whilst travelling around the country.<br />

The Plastiki<br />

After sailing more than 8,000<br />

nautical miles and spending<br />

128 days crossing the Pacific in<br />

a boat made of 12,500 plastic<br />

drinks bottles, the Plastiki<br />

expedition (inspired by the<br />

famous Kon-Tiki voyage) and her<br />

crew successfully reached their<br />

destination of Sydney.<br />

The inspiring, one-of-a-kind<br />

catamaran set sail under the<br />

shadow of San Francisco’s<br />

Golden Gate Bridge in March<br />

2010. With a crew of six, the<br />

Plastiki set out to alert the world<br />

to the shocking and unnecessary<br />

effects of single use plastics on<br />

the health of our oceans and its<br />

inhabitants.<br />

“This is a complex, challenging<br />

and now hugely catastrophic<br />

issue that scientists estimate<br />

is causing devastation on an<br />

unprecedented scale - every year<br />

at least one million seabirds and<br />

100,000 marine mammals and<br />

Sad Losses<br />

We are sorry to announce the<br />

deaths of three of the <strong>Society</strong>’s<br />

long-standing colleagues and<br />

friends.<br />

On 31st July 2010, Ronald<br />

McLaren, a former Chairman of<br />

the RSGS Kirkcaldy Centre, passed<br />

away peacefully at the age of 78<br />

in Victoria Hospital, Kirkcaldy.<br />

Some hope for Bengal tigers<br />

In September, a BBC<br />

natural history camera<br />

crew filmed a ‘lost’<br />

population of Bengal<br />

tigers living in the<br />

mountains of Bhutan,<br />

at a higher altitude<br />

than any others known.<br />

The Bengal tiger is<br />

the most numerous<br />

of all tiger sub-species, but habitat loss and poaching have<br />

reduced numbers in the wild to only c1,850. The creation of<br />

tiger reserves in the 1970s helped to stabilise numbers, but<br />

poaching inside the reserves has again put the Bengal tiger<br />

at risk. This new discovery could be crucial; creating a nature<br />

reserve around these tigers could connect up fragmented<br />

populations across Asia, helping to prevent their extinction.<br />

sea turtles die when they become<br />

entangled or ingest plastic<br />

pollution.” said expedition leader<br />

David de Rothschild.<br />

The vessel, which is fully<br />

recyclable and is powered by<br />

solar panels and wind turbines,<br />

sought to turn attention to the<br />

state of our oceans, in particular<br />

the colossal amounts of plastic<br />

debris, by showcasing waste as<br />

A beloved husband, father and<br />

grandfather, he will be greatly<br />

missed by all that knew him.<br />

After a lengthy treatment for cancer,<br />

Alan McAndrew, a long serving<br />

trustee and advisor to the <strong>Society</strong>,<br />

passed away on 7th August 2010, at<br />

St Columba’s Hospice, aged 57. He<br />

is survived by his wife Heather, and<br />

sons Hamish and Finlay.<br />

Barrie Hepworth, a former<br />

a resource and<br />

demonstrating<br />

real world<br />

solutions<br />

through its<br />

design and<br />

construction.<br />

See www.<br />

theplastiki.<br />

com for more<br />

information.<br />

Chairman of the RSGS Helensburgh<br />

Centre, passed away peacefully<br />

on 24th August 2010, in the <strong>Royal</strong><br />

Alexandra Hospital, Paisley. He is<br />

survived by his wife Jane, and two<br />

children Grace and Adam.<br />

Our condolences go out to all<br />

friends and family, and we would<br />

also like to thank each of these men<br />

for their work and dedication to the<br />

RSGS over the years.<br />

Bio- & Geodiversity


NEWS People • Places • Planet<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 2-3<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

Letter from<br />

New Zealand<br />

After the Quake<br />

Moira Mallon<br />

At 4.35am on Saturday, an<br />

earthquake hurled me out of<br />

bed and into the violent roar of<br />

a natural disaster.<br />

Other than a few bruises, I<br />

am unharmed. Other than<br />

numerous cracks, splits and<br />

holes, the structure of the house<br />

is unharmed, though the inside<br />

of the house was literally tipped<br />

upside down. So unharmed? Yes.<br />

But OK? No. Not at all. It has<br />

been the most terrifying, violent,<br />

traumatic experience. There are<br />

no words. No words.<br />

Whilst it is an utter miracle that<br />

there have been no fatalities,<br />

the sense of loss and trauma<br />

is profound. To see this<br />

beautiful city destroyed is so<br />

heartbreaking, to see friends<br />

and neighbours with their homes<br />

and belongings destroyed is<br />

overwhelming, and to be woken<br />

up by a 7.0 Richter scale<br />

earthquake is terrifying (I will<br />

never again groan at the sound<br />

of a car alarm).<br />

I don’t quite know how to<br />

describe the experience that<br />

lasted for 17 minutes (and<br />

has been ongoing ever since).<br />

It’s like being mugged and<br />

then someone jumping out<br />

of a cupboard to say ‘boo’<br />

every few minutes. It was like<br />

roaring thunder inside your<br />

head, vicious roars of the earth<br />

opening up and splitting open,<br />

volcanic-like pressure from<br />

underneath rippling through the<br />

floor, the whole house shaking<br />

violently.<br />

I was being thrown around on<br />

the floor at a rapid speed, and<br />

there was nothing to hold onto.<br />

I could hear everything<br />

smashing and falling around me,<br />

glass smashing, furniture being<br />

flung through the doors and<br />

into the walls, pictures falling,<br />

chimneys crumbling, the wall<br />

cracking. The first thought I had<br />

was ‘Haiti! Oh god this is what<br />

those poor people went through<br />

but they had it so much worse’.<br />

My gut instinct was to reach<br />

out and call out to connect with<br />

someone, but there was no one<br />

there, no power, no phones,<br />

nothing. My instinct was to get<br />

out of the house and out of<br />

the danger of everything falling<br />

around me, but I couldn’t – it<br />

was impossible to move.<br />

Many of us are now motion-sick<br />

from the constant rolling of the<br />

earth. For the first 48 hours,<br />

we had aftershock earthquakes<br />

every 20 minutes. Now they are<br />

down to every couple of hours.<br />

They are quite unsettling. I am<br />

just so tired now that I think I<br />

might just sleep through a few!<br />

I think I will sleep tonight and I<br />

am looking forward to it.<br />

Whilst the headlines and news<br />

stories around the world have<br />

changed, it is our only story.<br />

It’s not a headline for us, it’s<br />

a lifeline. I cannot tell you the<br />

depth of gratitude we all feel<br />

to be alive, but whilst there has<br />

been no loss of life there is a<br />

profound loss of emotional,<br />

social and psychological<br />

wellbeing. The eerie silence after<br />

such brutal noise, adults and<br />

children vomiting and urinating<br />

in fear and terror, the flocks<br />

of birds disappearing seconds<br />

before another earthquake, the<br />

disappointment that you are in<br />

fact not a bird and can’t fly off<br />

with them, the constant hum<br />

of sirens and fire-engines, the<br />

need for people to be close to<br />

each other, and the delightful reassurance<br />

that everyone around<br />

you knows what you are going<br />

through. It is one day at a time<br />

at the moment...<br />

I need to settle down for the<br />

night as the earth continues to<br />

settle back down to its natural<br />

state of being. The process of<br />

nature settling down is scary...<br />

Last night we had our worst<br />

night since Saturday, with two<br />

very bad earthquakes<br />

through the night.<br />

I was jolted violently<br />

from my chair<br />

onto the floor by<br />

the most violent<br />

aftershock yet. It was<br />

so gut-wrenchingly<br />

terrifying that it left<br />

many of our poor<br />

emergency workers<br />

in tears. It is just too<br />

much and we are<br />

not done yet. It was only 5.4 on<br />

the Richter scale, but only 6km<br />

below the surface. More things<br />

broke and fell over, and more<br />

buildings were destroyed and<br />

roads and pavements cracked<br />

open in seconds. We did manage<br />

to get a few hours sleep, which<br />

we are all in desperate need<br />

of; 350,000 sleep-deprived and<br />

frazzled individuals doesn’t help<br />

when we have so much to do.<br />

Christchurch is still in a state of<br />

emergency. Schools are closed,<br />

the city is cordoned off, the<br />

water is contaminated, and each<br />

day our historical buildings and<br />

friends’ homes get pulled down.<br />

We crawl around on our hands<br />

and knees regularly and check<br />

our survival kits daily. We laugh<br />

every day, but not about this!<br />

We know that only good will<br />

come from this, and there is a<br />

strong future for Christchurch<br />

and we will re-build and re-open<br />

for business. Our spirits are<br />

resilient and our communities<br />

determined. But right now<br />

we are not in that space. The<br />

future will evolve when the earth<br />

settles. Right now the present<br />

priority is the physical and<br />

emotional safety and wellbeing<br />

of people, and getting through<br />

each aftershock, and providing<br />

support to each other and those<br />

most affected. We all need<br />

to talk about it and it’s all we<br />

talk about here. It’s our coping<br />

mechanism.<br />

All my love from ‘continuing-tocrumble’<br />

Christchurch.<br />

Moira<br />

At 4.35am on 4th<br />

September 2010,<br />

New Zealand’s South<br />

Island was struck<br />

by a magnitude 7.0<br />

earthquake, the most<br />

powerful to hit the<br />

country in almost 80<br />

years.<br />

New Zealand straddles<br />

the boundary between<br />

the Pacific and Indian-<br />

Australian plates, at a<br />

point where the nature<br />

of the plate boundary<br />

changes fundamentally:<br />

to the north of New<br />

Zealand, the Pacific<br />

plate moves beneath the<br />

Indian-Australian plate;<br />

within the South Island,<br />

the plates rub past each<br />

other horizontally; to the<br />

south of New Zealand,<br />

the Indian-Australian<br />

plate moves below the<br />

Pacific plate.<br />

The tremor’s epicentre<br />

was about 90km from<br />

two active faults,<br />

the Alpine fault and<br />

the Hope fault, and<br />

about 50km west<br />

of Christchurch, the<br />

country’s second largest<br />

city, which suffered<br />

widespread damage.<br />

The earthquake toppled<br />

building facades,<br />

buckled rail lines, and<br />

damaged 100,000<br />

homes in the city of<br />

350,000 people. Prime<br />

Minister John Key has<br />

described the lack of<br />

fatalities as a miracle.


NEWS People • Places • Planet<br />

Bio- & Geodiversity<br />

Sharks<br />

The battle against shark extinction has found some unusual<br />

allies. Nine shark attack victims, in association with the<br />

Pew Environment Group, have called on the UN to ban<br />

finning, a practice where fishermen cut off a fin for shark<br />

fin soup, then throw the shark back into the water to drown<br />

or bleed to death.<br />

Conservationists have said that nearly a third of all shark<br />

species are, or are on the verge of being, threatened with<br />

extinction. Scientists argue that eradicating sharks, the<br />

ocean’s top predator, will have a disastrous ripple effect on<br />

the rest of the marine environment. Yet unlike other ‘atrisk’<br />

species, there is no global management plan for shark<br />

fishing and no limit on how many can be caught.<br />

Krishna Thompson, a New York banker who was nearly<br />

killed after a shark attack that took his left leg, stated, “I<br />

was attacked by a shark. Yes it was a tragedy, but that is<br />

what sharks do. I can’t blame the shark for what it did, you<br />

have to put that aside and look at the bigger picture:<br />

73 million sharks killed yearly for shark finning”.<br />

<strong>Scottish</strong> Beaver Trial<br />

Simon Jones, <strong>Scottish</strong> Beaver Trial Project Manager<br />

This ground-breaking five-year project began in May 2009,<br />

with the release of three Norwegian-born beaver families<br />

into Argyll’s Knapdale Forest. The trial, run by <strong>Scottish</strong> Wildlife<br />

Trust, the <strong>Royal</strong> Zoological <strong>Society</strong> of Scotland and Forestry<br />

Commission Scotland, sees the first formal re-introduction of<br />

a mammal back into the wild anywhere in the UK.<br />

Two of the families have settled well, establishing territories<br />

on freshwater lochs, and building substantial lodge dwellings<br />

and dams to allow them easier access to feeding areas. Most<br />

importantly, and to the delight of many, these beavers have<br />

now bred successfully, with a single ‘kit’ born to each tightknit<br />

family group. This highlight followed earlier low points,<br />

when the third family dispersed from the trial area, and two<br />

male beavers died soon after release. Although the loss of<br />

these beavers has been a disappointment, it is to be expected<br />

in the establishment of any reintroduced population.<br />

This summer, the beavers enjoyed a time of plenty. Field<br />

staff recorded beavers making repeated diving sessions<br />

through the lily beds, to dig up individual tubers of water<br />

lilies, a favourite food. This scientific monitoring work into<br />

beaver behaviour, and the effect of beavers on aquatic<br />

plants, is being recorded and analysed, along with studies<br />

into woodland structure, dragonfly communities, fish<br />

populations, water chemistry and the hydrological impacts,<br />

all coordinated by <strong>Scottish</strong> Natural Heritage. This will give a<br />

picture of how beavers affect the local natural environment,<br />

complementing a study on the economic impacts too.<br />

In only 12 months, the Knapdale beavers have proven<br />

themselves to be a real attraction to local people and<br />

visitors, and many people have been rewarded, after patient<br />

vigils, with the sight of these remarkable creatures happily<br />

going about their business, blissfully ignorant of all the<br />

excitement, fuss and attention that surrounds them.<br />

www.scottishbeavers.org.uk<br />

© Steve Gardner<br />

Paris, London,<br />

Amsterdam…<br />

Dumfries<br />

On 7th September 2010,<br />

Dumfries joined the likes of<br />

Paris, London and Amsterdam,<br />

when <strong>Scottish</strong> Transport Minister<br />

Stewart Stevenson formally<br />

launched the first public bikehire<br />

scheme backed by the<br />

Government in Scotland. The<br />

scheme, Bike2Go, will make 30<br />

bikes available at nine different<br />

docking stations around the<br />

town, which users can access 24<br />

Excellence Group in<br />

Geography Formed<br />

As part of the plan for<br />

developing Curriculum for<br />

Excellence, the Cabinet Secretary<br />

has set up a number of<br />

‘excellence groups’, comprising<br />

a mixture of teachers and<br />

others within the education<br />

sector with individuals who are<br />

widely recognised as experts or<br />

leaders in their particular field.<br />

These groups are looking at the<br />

skills, attributes and features of<br />

excellence in education in each<br />

of the subject areas, with the aim<br />

of promoting deeper learning,<br />

better teaching, active learner<br />

engagement, the development<br />

of skills, and enhanced<br />

achievement. The messages<br />

from the groups will be fed into a<br />

report which will be published in<br />

the spring of 2011.<br />

The groups are looking at<br />

questions such as:<br />

• What promotes essential<br />

knowledge in curriculum<br />

content in the context of<br />

Curriculum for Excellence?<br />

hours a day by entering a PIN<br />

code. Membership is charged<br />

at an annual rate of £10, with<br />

the first 30 minutes riding free<br />

and £1 per hour thereafter. See<br />

www.hourbike.com for more<br />

information.<br />

• What promotes the high<br />

standards we seek to promote<br />

through Curriculum for<br />

Excellence?<br />

• What is innovative subject<br />

practice in the context of<br />

Curriculum for Excellence?<br />

Groups have been set up in<br />

15 subject areas: English,<br />

Modern Languages, Gaelic,<br />

Maths, Science, Technologies,<br />

Geography, History, Modern<br />

Studies, Business Studies,<br />

Physical Education, Food<br />

and Health, RME, RERC, and<br />

Expressive Arts.<br />

The members of the geography<br />

group are: Liz McGlashan,<br />

Dalkeith High School & SAGT<br />

(Chair); Caroline Robertson,<br />

James Young High School;<br />

Deirdre Cassidy, Hermitage<br />

Academy; Lisa Allan, Barrhead<br />

High School; Jim Bruce, HMIE;<br />

Julie Gallacher, Learning &<br />

Teaching Scotland; Alan Barclay,<br />

<strong>Scottish</strong> Qualifications Authority;<br />

Mike Robinson, <strong>Royal</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong><br />

<strong>Geographical</strong> <strong>Society</strong>; Vanessa<br />

Collingridge, BBC Radio 4<br />

presenter.<br />

Rory Stewart Receives Livingstone Medal<br />

The 2009 Livingstone Medal was presented to Rory Stewart, at a very<br />

enjoyable event in Stirling’s Albert Halls in August. Rory received the Medal<br />

in recognition of his work in Afghanistan, and his establishment of the<br />

Turquoise Mountain Foundation in 2006.<br />

Speaking about his Livingstone Medal, Rory stated “I am very honoured to<br />

have received this award and don’t feel deserving of it at all. Of course, I<br />

am very excited as so many of the past winners are my childhood heroes.<br />

However, really the award should be going to the people who looked<br />

after me on my way, and also those who run the projects at Turquoise<br />

Mountain.”


NEWS People • Places • Planet<br />

After the Eruption<br />

Professor Roger Crofts<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 4-5<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

The summer 2010 edition of<br />

The <strong>Geographer</strong> reported the<br />

eruption of Eyjafjallajökull. For<br />

the moment it has stopped, but<br />

the consequences for the land<br />

and the people certainly have<br />

not. Farmers, local elected and<br />

paid officials, priests, and land<br />

restoration specialists interviewed<br />

all expressed concern about the<br />

longer term mental health of<br />

residents in the directly affected<br />

area. Two farmers had already<br />

left the area and did not intend to<br />

return, such had been the trauma.<br />

They had sent their stock to the<br />

farms of relatives elsewhere in<br />

Iceland. Another two farmers<br />

were seriously thinking of leaving.<br />

Those remaining were concerned<br />

that their livestock, which had<br />

been removed from the area to<br />

avoid ingestion of noxious fluoride<br />

on the vegetation and to find<br />

new pastures, considered that<br />

there was insufficient action by<br />

government agencies and a great<br />

deal of buck passing.<br />

For many families, coping with<br />

the potential of an eruption<br />

and memories of eruptions in<br />

the nearby Vestmann Islands<br />

were kept private, as were the<br />

normal tensions between people<br />

in the home. The eruption and<br />

its aftermath brought many of<br />

these problems to the surface.<br />

A priest described to me that<br />

people had lived in a box with<br />

their emotions private, but the ash<br />

had got into the box and forced<br />

the individuals out and exposed<br />

them in an uncomfortable way.<br />

Already two couples had divorced.<br />

And many had been treated<br />

for mental illness locally or in<br />

Reykjavik, almost 100 miles away.<br />

The attention of the media had<br />

caused a great deal of harm<br />

and little identifiable benefit.<br />

Journalists continually pestered<br />

families looking for stories and<br />

novel angles. The locals felt that<br />

sometimes they made up stories<br />

just to report something, One has<br />

to question the morality of the<br />

media in these situations, where<br />

getting a story is more important<br />

than those traumatised being<br />

allowed to cope with the situation.<br />

At least the support of many<br />

Icelanders who just turned up and<br />

said “what can we do to help?”<br />

was warmly welcomed and gave<br />

great comfort.<br />

The prolonged warm, bright<br />

weather has also heightened<br />

spirits. But there are real fears<br />

about the onset of the dark winter<br />

nights, the potential for further<br />

eruptions and the recurrence<br />

of the nightmares of the two<br />

eruptions. Their concerns were not<br />

helped, they said, by the President<br />

of Iceland suggesting on UK TV<br />

that much larger eruptions could<br />

occur. Whilst he acknowledged<br />

this point in an interview, he felt it<br />

necessary to warn other European<br />

countries of the need to prepare<br />

effective contingency plans. The<br />

memories of the darkness during<br />

the daytime, the overwhelming<br />

and constant noise of the<br />

eruption and the accompanying<br />

thunder and the brightness of the<br />

lightening during the night time<br />

severely disrupting sleep, were<br />

still real. Conditions in the houses<br />

were difficult as the fine volcanic<br />

dust penetrated everywhere<br />

despite double glazing,<br />

necessitating wearing of masks<br />

indoors and causing breathing<br />

difficulties and sinus problems.<br />

On the ground there are<br />

always longer standing effects.<br />

Massive amounts of ash<br />

were spread across Europe,<br />

but much has landed locally<br />

around Eyjafjallajökull and<br />

Fimmvorðuhals. The ice cap is<br />

black with the ash to a depth of<br />

almost a metre. The snow beyond<br />

the glacier is covered with ash,<br />

giving beautiful circular patterns<br />

as the snow slowly melts. The<br />

highland grazing areas have<br />

largely disappeared under the<br />

ash, and above 600m there are<br />

virtually no signs of growth. Below<br />

that, the grass is beginning to<br />

show through following a long<br />

warm spell. But there is a very<br />

significant reduction in the area<br />

of land for<br />

sheep to<br />

graze, and<br />

alternative<br />

sources of<br />

feed have<br />

had to be<br />

found. It<br />

is very<br />

difficult to<br />

© Chapman-Burton<br />

reseed these areas because they<br />

are not accessible for machinery,<br />

so the traditional pattern of taking<br />

the sheep to the highlands in June<br />

and gathering them in September<br />

is diminished. Fortunately, the<br />

fodder crops on the lower ground<br />

are growing, but initially with a<br />

reduced production. The milk<br />

from the cattle has, to everyone’s<br />

relief, been passed as fit for<br />

human consumption.<br />

The river valleys and the deep<br />

canyons are filled with ash. A<br />

90m deep lake at the front of the<br />

glacier where the main flood came<br />

is totally filled with sediment! The<br />

water released by the eruption<br />

under the ice cap carried vast<br />

quantities of ash down the valleys<br />

across the fields and over the<br />

roads. The rivers are now being<br />

dredged to allow for more ash to<br />

be carried down once the autumn<br />

rains begin, otherwise it will spill<br />

out over the fields and block<br />

the roads and threaten the farm<br />

houses.<br />

Will the volcano erupt again?<br />

Geologists are uncertain. The<br />

last time Eyjafjallajökull erupted<br />

in 1821/22, there was a second<br />

eruption seven months after<br />

the first. The adjacent Katla<br />

volcano, fed by a separate<br />

magma chamber, is overdue an<br />

eruption, the last having been in<br />

1918. More to the point, locals<br />

are worried about the possibility<br />

of another eruption and the<br />

continuing consequences of the<br />

last one: ash blow, flooding and<br />

mud flows. Whatever happens in<br />

practice, the local population are<br />

not looking forward to the dark<br />

winter nights and the memories<br />

they will bring back.<br />

“Conditions<br />

in the houses<br />

were difficult<br />

as the fine<br />

volcanic dust<br />

penetrated<br />

everywhere<br />

despite<br />

double<br />

glazing,<br />

necessitating<br />

wearing<br />

of masks<br />

indoors and<br />

causing<br />

breathing<br />

difficulties<br />

and sinus<br />

problems.”


On the Map<br />

Global Surface Temperature Anomalies<br />

© NASA Goddard Institute for Space Studies<br />

(GISS temperature analysis)<br />

This July 2010 global map<br />

of surface temperature<br />

anomalies, relative to the<br />

average July in the 1951-1980<br />

period of climatology, provides<br />

a useful picture of current<br />

climate.<br />

It was more than 5°C warmer<br />

in areas of eastern Europe and<br />

eastern Asia, and unusually<br />

warm in the eastern United<br />

States. Substantial areas<br />

appeared cooler, including<br />

central Asia and southern<br />

South America. The emerging<br />

La Niña is now moderately<br />

strong, evidenced by the<br />

cool band along the equator<br />

in the eastern and central<br />

Pacific Ocean.<br />

Indus River Flooding, August 2010<br />

Thanks to the Met Office and Mike Thomas for<br />

providing helpful information for this piece.<br />

© NASA/GSFC/METI/<br />

ERSDAC/JAROS, and US/<br />

Japan ASTER Science Team<br />

This 18th August 2010<br />

ASTER image shows<br />

the extent of flooding in<br />

and around the city of<br />

Sukkur in Pakistan’s Sindh<br />

Province. The Indus River,<br />

Pakistan’s longest, snakes<br />

vertically through the<br />

image (dimensions 62x77<br />

km).<br />

The Indus, the world’s 21st largest<br />

river, really defines Pakistan – the<br />

country is virtually split lengthways<br />

by this river. Much of the land to the<br />

east is low lying and is a flood plain,<br />

especially the Punjab. Perhaps this<br />

is no surprise – Punjab means ‘five<br />

rivers’, part of the reason the area is so<br />

rich in nutrients, (it is the ‘breadbasket’<br />

of Pakistan), but also explaining<br />

its propensity to flood during the<br />

monsoon.<br />

This summer however, according<br />

to some reports, nearly a third of<br />

the country was underwater, and<br />

the Punjab bore the brunt of what<br />

have been seen as the worst floods<br />

for generations. In the neighbouring<br />

region of Sindh, too, more than seven<br />

million people have been affected, and<br />

according to the UN, flood waters are<br />

still spreading as we go to print.<br />

Pakistan typically receives about half<br />

its annual rainfall of 250–500mm<br />

during July and August, so reports of<br />

24-hour totals in excess of 300mm,<br />

particularly in the head waters of the<br />

Indus River, were exceptional.<br />

The weather and airflow patterns<br />

over the whole of Asia had been very<br />

disturbed, resulting in record-breaking<br />

high temperatures in Moscow, leading<br />

to fatalities, forest fires and damaged<br />

crops, a once in a thousand year event<br />

according to Russian meteorologists.<br />

Another consequence was the excessive<br />

rainfall over China, which caused major<br />

mudslides and filled the Three Gorges<br />

Dam almost to capacity.<br />

The Indus River formerly flowed east<br />

into the Ganga system. It became<br />

diverted by tectonics to its present<br />

course five million years ago, since<br />

when its lower channel has shifted<br />

many times in response to extreme<br />

floods and climate changes.<br />

The Indus, with one of the highest<br />

sediment loads among world rivers,<br />

discharges on average 6,600 m 3 /<br />

second to the Arabian Sea. Reports<br />

indicate that the recent floods reached<br />

over 31,000 m 3 /second at Sukkur. The<br />

mountain catchment of the Khyber<br />

region received six times its average<br />

rainfall, and downstream Khanpur<br />

received nearly 16 times its average.<br />

Lahore, however, had lower than<br />

average rain.<br />

NASA reported a probable transition<br />

to La Niña conditions in July, which<br />

have been a factor in the strengthening<br />

of the Asian monsoon. An unusual<br />

jet stream in the upper atmosphere,<br />

flowing from the north and replacing<br />

the normally dominant westerly flow,<br />

is thought to be mainly responsible for<br />

the formation of large scale (Walker)<br />

cells of exceptional weather.<br />

Such strong fluctuations away from<br />

‘average’ conditions must, however,<br />

reflect deeper causes, and global<br />

climate warming is a likely candidate.<br />

The World Meteorological Office argues<br />

that the extreme weather events of<br />

2010 accord with predictions by the<br />

IPCC.<br />

None of this should obscure the human<br />

component of these tragic events:<br />

increasing population spreading across<br />

the floodplains, combined with water<br />

control measures to provide 80% of<br />

Pakistan’s irrigation from the Indus<br />

River, have both contributed to the<br />

tragic consequences of extreme natural<br />

events.<br />

Donations to help the victims of the Pakistan floods can be made to The Disasters E


Country in Focus: Pakistan<br />

The Flood Problem<br />

Dr Brian Cook, IHP-HELP Centre for Water Law, Policy and Science, University of Dundee<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 6-7<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

The flooding in Pakistan represents<br />

a catastrophe that borders on<br />

unimaginable for those fortunate<br />

enough to live in the relative<br />

safety of the developed world.<br />

The hardship and suffering expose<br />

the natural environment as both<br />

provider and menace. This duality<br />

is rarely more evident than in<br />

agriculturally productive floodplains,<br />

which are periodically inundated to<br />

the detriment of inhabitants, the<br />

people dependent on the produced<br />

resources, or the neighbours forced<br />

to accommodate displaced people,<br />

disease, and needs. This type of<br />

event provokes questions of ‘what<br />

should be done?’, implicitly seeking<br />

a solution to the flood problem.<br />

While we must be cautious<br />

when comparing developed and<br />

developing world disasters, the<br />

floods in Pakistan provide us with<br />

an opportunity to reflect on the<br />

changing nature of hazards and<br />

their management. Furthermore, in<br />

the context of recent flooding in the<br />

United Kingdom (Midlands 2007,<br />

Bowmont Valley 2008, Cockermouth<br />

2009), there is a need to consider<br />

how understandings, expectations,<br />

and approaches should evolve<br />

to promote sustainable social,<br />

economic, and environmental<br />

development.<br />

Managing Environmental Hazards<br />

Management of the natural<br />

environment has undergone<br />

significant change over the past<br />

100 years. Historically, with a<br />

growing understanding of the<br />

natural world and a corresponding<br />

growth of technology, people<br />

were confident in their ability to<br />

shape the environment to suit<br />

their needs. This allowed society<br />

to make use of floodplains in ways<br />

that would have been too risky for<br />

earlier generations. With hindsight,<br />

such actions appear misinformed<br />

and perhaps misguided. Instead,<br />

we now recognise endemic<br />

unpredictability and uncertainty<br />

within environmental systems.<br />

With less predictable and more<br />

extreme events, we have at least<br />

three forces pulling in opposite<br />

directions: 1) the relative infrequency<br />

of extreme events results in an<br />

ill-prepared populace liable to<br />

make poor decisions; 2) increasing<br />

extremes of drought and flooding<br />

suggest that higher, stronger, and<br />

more extensive infrastructures are<br />

required to deliver the same level<br />

of security enjoyed by previous<br />

generations; and 3) the ongoing<br />

development of floodplains<br />

increases the concentration of<br />

people and wealth within high-risk<br />

locations. These issues suggest<br />

both that disaster prevention is<br />

impossible and that disaster<br />

mitigation is more difficult<br />

than envisioned.<br />

In the case of<br />

Pakistan, there<br />

is coupled<br />

environmental<br />

and societal<br />

change, fuelling<br />

significant<br />

uncertainty.<br />

Extreme events<br />

are unpredictable and occur<br />

seemingly at random, with concerns<br />

over drought oscillating to flood<br />

year on year; infrastructure is both<br />

aging and insufficient for extreme<br />

events, with government challenged<br />

to weigh long-term preventative<br />

planning against immediate<br />

concerns; and population growth<br />

is forcing intensive development<br />

and occupation of floodplains. In<br />

addition, Pakistan must address<br />

these issues within the context<br />

of poverty and the associated<br />

inequalities.<br />

How Poverty Exacerbates the<br />

Impact of Flooding<br />

Disasters can be detrimental (for<br />

people whose homes are damaged)<br />

or beneficial (for people who build<br />

or repair houses). Furthermore, an<br />

individual may experience immediate<br />

detrimental impacts (loss of crop)<br />

while enjoying long term benefits<br />

(recharged soil moisture and nutrient<br />

replenishment). The complex and<br />

diverse range of experience suggests<br />

that pre-disaster conditions are a<br />

critical determinant.<br />

Poverty exacerbates disasters<br />

in multiple ways. The poor often<br />

must inhabit undesirable and<br />

high-risk locations (hill slopes<br />

and floodplains), increasing the<br />

likelihood of exposure. People<br />

in poverty do not have food and<br />

resources to fall back on. Poverty,<br />

and its resulting malnutrition and<br />

chronic ill health, affects people’s<br />

susceptibility to water-borne<br />

diseases, eg cholera and dysentery.<br />

Amongst the impoverished, there<br />

are further hardships faced by<br />

women, children, minorities, and day<br />

labourers. These groups receive less<br />

of what little there is, and are often<br />

first to lose their livelihoods during<br />

disasters. Finally, such weakened<br />

and resource-poor individuals are<br />

vulnerable to unjust relations,<br />

direct force, price escalation, and<br />

profiteering by<br />

those capable of<br />

mitigating impacts,<br />

producing situations<br />

in which the least<br />

able face the largest<br />

detriments.<br />

Conclusion<br />

While there are significant<br />

differences between the<br />

UK and Pakistan, there are<br />

also common themes and<br />

opportunities to learn and share<br />

knowledge. For both nations, the<br />

problem of catastrophic flooding<br />

is unsolvable: bigger structures will<br />

fail, floodplains will continue to be<br />

populated, and the environment will<br />

continue to change.<br />

Large-scale technical solutions are<br />

unlikely to be economically viable<br />

outside of densely populated,<br />

urban, or culturally significant<br />

locations, which may be protected<br />

at great economic and social<br />

cost. Elsewhere, individuals<br />

and communities will need to<br />

assume greater responsibility,<br />

emphasising the importance of<br />

pre-existing resources, abilities,<br />

and opportunities for all vulnerable<br />

people. Thus, in response to those<br />

asking ‘what can be done to resolve<br />

the flood problem?’, we require<br />

an understanding that does not<br />

assign blame to a changing or<br />

unpredictable environment, but<br />

rather an understanding that<br />

accepts responsibility for<br />

how our decisions<br />

contribute to<br />

catastrophic<br />

situations.<br />

“The poor<br />

often must<br />

inhabit<br />

undesirable<br />

and high-risk<br />

locations (hill<br />

slopes and<br />

floodplains),<br />

increasing the<br />

likelihood of<br />

exposure.”<br />

Thanks to Ben Wisner<br />

for his helpful suggestions<br />

on this commentary.<br />

mergency Committee at www.dec.org.uk or by phoning 0370 60 60 900


Off The Beaten Track<br />

Don’t Miss the Boat<br />

Ed Gillespie, co-founder of specialist sustainability communications agency Futerra, and a global, slow traveller<br />

Ed trying on an immersion/<br />

survival suit<br />

Arriving at Brisbane,<br />

Australia on the cargo<br />

ship Theodor Storm<br />

from Singapore<br />

“We were<br />

fantastically<br />

remote,<br />

potentially<br />

vulnerable,<br />

yet constantly<br />

lifted and<br />

inspired by<br />

the vivid<br />

blue beauty<br />

of sea and<br />

sky: rolling<br />

cloudscapes,<br />

wildly<br />

flamboyant<br />

sunsets and<br />

star-peppered<br />

nights.”<br />

Ed is speaking to<br />

RSGS audiences<br />

in Perth and<br />

Stirling in March<br />

2011.<br />

This time two years ago I was<br />

literally in the middle of the<br />

Pacific. Rolling in a gentle swell<br />

just north of the equator, on the<br />

32,000 tonne container ship, the<br />

Hansa Rendsburg. It was a 175m<br />

long Chinese-built vessel with<br />

what one of the crew described<br />

charmingly as a ‘deciduous’<br />

engine – it regularly shed parts.<br />

Tahiti, our last<br />

port of call, was<br />

2,000 miles<br />

behind us, and the<br />

next, Ensenada in<br />

Mexico, was 2,000<br />

miles ahead. In the<br />

context of ‘getting<br />

away from it all’,<br />

I’m not sure how<br />

much further away<br />

we could possibly<br />

have got.<br />

The trans-Pacific<br />

crossing in the<br />

Hansa Rendsburg<br />

was the third of<br />

four ‘freighter<br />

cruises’ we took as part of<br />

our year-long round-the-world<br />

trip without flying (www.<br />

lowcarbontravel.com), sailing as<br />

passengers on cargo ships from<br />

Singapore to Brisbane, then from<br />

Melbourne to Napier in New<br />

Zealand, and finally from Costa<br />

Rica back to good old Dover.<br />

While we were not actually<br />

expected to swab the decks<br />

in exchange for our passage,<br />

it’s a far cry from conventional<br />

cruising. Contrasting cargo<br />

ships with cruise liners is<br />

like comparing a truck with a<br />

limousine – both get you to your<br />

destination, but only one has a<br />

champagne fridge and leather<br />

seats. The luxurious pampering<br />

of clubby retirees is all part of<br />

the cruise liner experience and<br />

comes with a price tag to match.<br />

Cargo ships are very much the<br />

‘no-frills’ option.<br />

The core business of our vessel<br />

was to shift stuff around the<br />

world. The financial benefit of<br />

our presence to the company,<br />

when fuel costs run into many<br />

thousands of pounds a day, was<br />

minuscule. We were essentially<br />

a welcome distraction, mainly<br />

The Hansa Rendsburg in dock in Auckland,<br />

New Zealand<br />

because, after several months<br />

at sea, the crew, if not exactly<br />

sick of the sight of each other, at<br />

least appreciate some fresh faces<br />

and new conversation.<br />

We occupied a ‘suite’ that was<br />

pleasant and spacious enough –<br />

in a Slough Travelodge sort of<br />

way. There was also a fridge,<br />

which we stocked with beer from<br />

the ship’s store<br />

(sadly, no Möet).<br />

Onboard with us<br />

were 21 crew, a<br />

mixture of Kiwis,<br />

Ukrainians,<br />

Filipinos and<br />

Kiribatis (from<br />

a remote group<br />

of equatorial<br />

Pacific atolls).<br />

There was one<br />

other passenger,<br />

a retired female<br />

Canadian<br />

Mountie who<br />

“couldn’t<br />

stand flying”,<br />

and around 1,000 boxy, metal<br />

containers. These were stuffed<br />

with dried milk products, white<br />

goods, fruit and, in the 150 or so<br />

refrigerated ‘reefer’ containers,<br />

fish, meat and ice-cream. We<br />

even had a cargo of ‘low-specific’<br />

radioactive material going to<br />

Canada.<br />

With no cinema aboard, the<br />

only ‘pirates’ we saw were in the<br />

ship’s library of DVDs of dubious<br />

origin and suspect titles, of the<br />

lewd, nude variety. The male<br />

crew, it must be remembered, are<br />

alone at sea for very long periods.<br />

There were also opportunities<br />

for wildlife spotting. On previous<br />

ships, we saw pods of whales in<br />

the Great Barrier Reef lagoon,<br />

skittering flying fish off Tahiti,<br />

gangs of tiny petrels, and a lone<br />

majestic albatross wheeling<br />

gracefully around the ship in the<br />

Tasman Sea.<br />

Nature was less visible in the<br />

mid-Pacific, but there was still<br />

plenty to stimulate the senses.<br />

We were fantastically remote,<br />

potentially vulnerable, yet<br />

constantly lifted and inspired by<br />

the vivid blue beauty of sea and<br />

sky: rolling cloudscapes, wildly<br />

flamboyant sunsets and starpeppered<br />

nights. We were<br />

truly at the mercy of the<br />

ocean’s might, which<br />

was as profoundly<br />

humbling as it was<br />

scary.<br />

Cargo ship travel is not<br />

for everyone, but in an<br />

age when anyone can get on a<br />

plane and twang themselves to<br />

the other side of the planet, there<br />

is something uniquely satisfying<br />

about a long voyage by sea. You<br />

gain a respect for the crews who<br />

spend so many months of their<br />

lives each year half a world away<br />

from their nearest and dearest.<br />

You get to explore the mechanics<br />

of the biggest engines you’ll<br />

probably ever see, hang out<br />

on the bridge, and try on thick<br />

orange Neoprene immersion<br />

suits that make you resemble a<br />

cross between a Teletubby and a<br />

lobster fetishist.<br />

Freighter cruising also gives<br />

a fascinating insight into the<br />

logistics of the way much of<br />

the world’s trade is conducted –<br />

sobering when you see first-hand<br />

the scale of maritime shipping<br />

operations and the challenges<br />

involved. Cheap oriental<br />

Christmas decorations are seen in<br />

a new light when you appreciate<br />

how they’ve reached the UK.<br />

A cargo ship journey is a<br />

contemplative, relaxing<br />

experience – if the weather<br />

obliges. Freed from the<br />

distractions of telephones, the<br />

internet and the modern world,<br />

that permeate even the remotest<br />

holiday resorts, at sea your mind<br />

can wander, ruminate and truly<br />

escape. The tragedy is that these<br />

opportunities are in decline<br />

and capacity is limited to a few<br />

passenger cabins per ship.<br />

Compounding this, Orwellian<br />

security and immigration<br />

measures introduced by the US<br />

in recent years have created so<br />

many headaches for shipping<br />

companies that many have simply<br />

stopped carrying passengers<br />

at all. A long, proud tradition<br />

of travel by sea is in danger of<br />

disappearing altogether. Don’t<br />

miss the boat.


Expert View: Geodiversity<br />

Engaging with Geodiversity - Why it Matters<br />

Mike Thomas, University of Stirling<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 8-9<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

Geodiversity has emerged as<br />

a topic of debate and policy<br />

development amongst the<br />

conservation agencies of many<br />

countries over the last decade.<br />

In this, the International Year of<br />

Biodiversity, geodiversity merits<br />

enhanced exposure and exploration<br />

across the geographical sciences,<br />

to highlight its potential for the<br />

supply of environmental services<br />

to a plethora of stakeholders in<br />

environmental management.<br />

Geodiversity provides the essential<br />

underpinning for plants, animals<br />

and human beings to flourish,<br />

and is key to the conservation<br />

of geological sites and valued<br />

landscapes. It is an asset of<br />

national and international<br />

importance, that informs us of<br />

the globally significant geological<br />

processes that shape our world<br />

in ways that we rarely fully<br />

appreciate; from the drivers of<br />

tectonics, volcanism and long-term<br />

climate evolution, to the changing<br />

meteorological drivers that model<br />

the Earth’s surface.<br />

The interface between geodiversity<br />

and biodiversity is mediated by the<br />

fragile mantle of soils. Geodiversity,<br />

however, has a wider relevance<br />

as an expression of landscape<br />

character and quality, and as a key<br />

influence on habitats and species,<br />

sustainable management of land,<br />

river catchments and the coast,<br />

economic activities, and historical<br />

and cultural heritage. It is also of<br />

crucial importance to how we adapt<br />

to, and mitigate the impact of,<br />

climate change.<br />

Within Scotland’s cities, there<br />

are close links between urban<br />

landscapes and open spaces,<br />

architectural heritage and geology,<br />

thus broadening the concept still<br />

further to embrace aspects of the<br />

cultural landscape. Geodiversity<br />

can be a source of inspiration for<br />

art, sculpture, music and literature.<br />

Although this wider concept of<br />

geodiversity is now recognised<br />

within the activities of <strong>Scottish</strong><br />

Natural Heritage (SNH) and the<br />

British Geological Survey (BGS),<br />

there is a need to extend the<br />

discussion, to promote the nature<br />

and scope of both geodiversity and<br />

biodiversity to a wider audience.<br />

Scope also exists for consideration<br />

of the role and range of<br />

applications, ‘geodiversity services’,<br />

that can potentially be offered<br />

in the fields of geoconservation,<br />

geotourism, geoeducation, and<br />

in development planning and<br />

environmental management.<br />

The need for a greater awareness<br />

of geodiversity extends to better<br />

integration within existing policy<br />

frameworks, for example in the<br />

conservation of protected sites,<br />

in physical planning in urban and<br />

rural settings, in flood control and<br />

land stability issues, including<br />

many coastal and near-shore<br />

marine environments, as well<br />

as inclusion in climate change<br />

adaptation scenarios.<br />

The establishment of<br />

GeoConservationUK, and the<br />

creation of Geoparks in Scotland as<br />

a result of UNESCO and European<br />

initiatives, further highlight the<br />

emergence of geodiversity whilst<br />

providing for the involvement of<br />

local communities. In its wider<br />

relevance, geodiversity has a<br />

fundamental bearing on the health<br />

and wellbeing of Scotland’s people,<br />

and an important contribution to<br />

make in delivering the <strong>Scottish</strong><br />

Government’s strategic objectives<br />

and key themes for a greener<br />

Scotland.<br />

It is therefore timely and important<br />

to explore the scientific basis<br />

for geodiversity studies and to<br />

recognise the services that are<br />

provided by geodiversity, since<br />

these are of key importance to how<br />

we plan for a sustainable future<br />

through our national policies for the<br />

environment, for detailed planning<br />

provision, and for formal and<br />

informal education.<br />

Geodiversity is the<br />

variety of the Earth’s<br />

materials, forms and<br />

processes: it is rocks<br />

and minerals, fossils<br />

and sediments, soils<br />

and water; it is folds,<br />

faults and landforms;<br />

it is plate movement,<br />

sediment transport<br />

and soil creation. It is<br />

the variety of building stone used<br />

in the construction of Scotland’s<br />

towns; Edinburgh’s Castle<br />

Rock, once a volcano; Glasgow’s<br />

city centre drumlins, produced by<br />

the passage of great ice sheets;<br />

the Flow Country’s peat that<br />

supports a wealth of biodiversity;<br />

Caithness’s 380 million year old<br />

fossil fish; the River Spey, carrying<br />

sand silt and other sediment<br />

eroded from the Grampian<br />

Mountains into the Moray Firth.<br />

Britain has more geological<br />

diversity than any other<br />

comparable area in the world.<br />

Geodiversity provides raw<br />

materials and supplies water; it<br />

affects where and how we can<br />

build; it determines biodiversity,<br />

cultural heritage and a sense of<br />

place. Geodiversity conservation is<br />

increasingly seen as important in<br />

its own right, and as an essential<br />

support to biodiversity and<br />

cultural conservation programmes.<br />

The Wave, Arizona, a sandstone rock<br />

formation eroded by wind and rain.<br />

“Geodiversity<br />

is a property<br />

of the earth’s<br />

rocks,<br />

landforms<br />

and soils,<br />

all of which<br />

interact to<br />

provide the<br />

essential<br />

underpinning<br />

for plants,<br />

animals and<br />

human beings<br />

to flourish.”<br />

The RSGS, SNH, BGS and the British Soil Science<br />

<strong>Society</strong> (BSSS) have organised a conference, sponsored<br />

by <strong>Scottish</strong> Power and Tarmac, entitled Engaging<br />

with Geodiversity - why it matters, to be held at Our<br />

Dynamic Earth, Holyrood, Edinburgh on Wednesday<br />

1st December 2010 (see www.rsgs.org/events/<br />

Geodiversity_flyer.pdf). The opening plenary of the<br />

conference will be given by Professor Iain Stewart, who<br />

will also be speaking about the making of Scotland’s<br />

landscapes to RSGS audiences in Aberdeen, Dundee<br />

and Edinburgh in late November and early December.<br />

Salisbury Crags, Edinburgh – IPR/126-35CY British<br />

Geological Survey. © NERC. All rights reserved.


Opinion On: Geodiversity<br />

James Croll - Joiner. Janitor. Geologist. Genius?<br />

Mike Robinson, Chief Executive, RSGS<br />

“Finally,<br />

at the age<br />

of 38, at a<br />

time when<br />

the average<br />

life span<br />

was barely<br />

mid forties,<br />

he got his<br />

lucky break,<br />

becoming<br />

a janitor<br />

at the<br />

Anderson<br />

College in<br />

Glasgow.”<br />

James Croll is one of<br />

those characters who<br />

has been all but<br />

forgotten in Scotland,<br />

and is virtually<br />

unheard of in his home<br />

town of Perth. Yet he<br />

made a fundamental<br />

contribution to our<br />

current understanding of<br />

science and the ice ages.<br />

This contribution might merit<br />

greater attention in itself, but is<br />

all the more remarkable in light<br />

of his personal story. How did a<br />

man of modest birth, plagued<br />

throughout his life with ill health,<br />

and who left school after only<br />

three years, become one of the<br />

leading scientific thinkers of his<br />

day?<br />

James Croll was born in 1821<br />

to David Croil, a stonemason<br />

and crofter, and Janet Ellis, in<br />

the crofting hamlet of Little<br />

Whitefield, about five miles north<br />

of Perth. When he was three<br />

years old, the family croft was<br />

cleared by the landowner Lord<br />

Willoughby. Some families were<br />

offered an area of bog-land a mile<br />

or so west, in recompense for<br />

being displaced. This became the<br />

village of Wolfhill, and here David<br />

managed to clear four to five<br />

acres, and to build a house. It was<br />

not possible to feed the family<br />

from such a small landholding, so<br />

David had to revert to his trade<br />

as a stonemason and to travel<br />

regularly away from home.<br />

James was afflicted with a pain in<br />

his head, and had to wear a hat<br />

to keep his head from hurting.<br />

This was enough to put him off<br />

attending school, so he was taught<br />

in part by his parents, but in the<br />

main by his brother Alexander, two<br />

years his elder. Sadly his brother<br />

died at the age of ten, and James<br />

had to attend school himself from<br />

that point onwards.<br />

James attended school in<br />

Guildtown from the ages of nine<br />

to 13, and when he left, to help<br />

manage the croft, he was<br />

by his own admission<br />

below the average student.<br />

But it was around this<br />

time that he stumbled<br />

upon the monthly Penny<br />

Magazine of the <strong>Society</strong><br />

for the Diffusion of<br />

Useful Knowledge, and<br />

suddenly his intellect was<br />

unleashed.<br />

James read avidly from this<br />

moment forth, and by his late<br />

teens he felt he had a pretty<br />

good grasp of most of the<br />

main disciplines in science. “I<br />

remember well that, before I<br />

could make headway in physical<br />

astronomy,… I had to go back<br />

and study the laws of motion<br />

and fundamental principles of<br />

mechanics. In like manner I<br />

studied pneumatics, hydrostatics,<br />

light, heat, electricity and<br />

magnetism. I obtained assistance<br />

from no one. In fact there were<br />

none of my acquaintances who<br />

knew anything whatever about<br />

these subjects.” Ironically, geology<br />

was one of the few subjects<br />

he struggled to find much<br />

enthusiasm for.<br />

At the age of 17, James had to<br />

get a job, and he moved to Collace<br />

to learn to be a millwright. It<br />

was at this time that a leading<br />

Swiss scientist, Agassiz, rocked<br />

the geological community at<br />

a conference in Neuchâtel. Up<br />

until this time, most scientists<br />

believed that massive rocks which<br />

had travelled large distances<br />

from their source (erratic rocks)<br />

had been washed there in the<br />

diluvian floods that Noah survived,<br />

either directly or transported<br />

in icebergs that floated on the<br />

flood waters. The idea that<br />

glaciers once covered larger areas<br />

was controversial and widely<br />

disputed, but in 1837 Agassiz<br />

first presented this idea formally,<br />

explaining the theory of an ice age<br />

being responsible.<br />

Croll, after almost six years of<br />

fairly poor living<br />

conditions on the<br />

road, finally tired of<br />

the job of millwright<br />

and moved back to<br />

Wolfhill where, at 22,<br />

he took himself back<br />

to school to learn<br />

algebra. A deeply<br />

religious man, he<br />

helped to build the<br />

new kirk at Kinrossie for his friend<br />

the Reverend Andrew Bonar, then<br />

moved to Paisley where he worked<br />

as a joiner until 1846, when his<br />

elbow became ossified and he<br />

returned again to Wolfhill.<br />

He then made a lifelong friend<br />

through a moment of fate –<br />

wandering into Perth to seek<br />

work, he was handed a leaflet for<br />

a new tea and coffee merchant<br />

in the High Street. Croll took this<br />

as a ‘sign’, went to the shop,<br />

befriended the owner, David Irons,<br />

and worked for him in Perth for<br />

some months, before Irons set<br />

him up with his own shop in Elgin.<br />

There, he met and married<br />

Isabella MacDonald, but within<br />

three years he became too ill to<br />

work and had to sell the shop.<br />

Staunch teetotallers, the couple<br />

established a temperance hotel<br />

in Blairgowrie, but it was perhaps<br />

predictably unsuccessful. He then<br />

worked as an insurance salesman<br />

in Dundee, Edinburgh and<br />

Leicester, when his wife became<br />

seriously ill, and they moved back<br />

to Glasgow where her sister could<br />

help with care.<br />

Croll then produced his first<br />

book, The Philosophy of Theism,<br />

reflecting his religious convictions,<br />

and for the next year and a half<br />

was a journalist on a temperance<br />

newspaper in Glasgow.<br />

Finally, at the age of 38, at a<br />

time when the average life span<br />

was barely mid forties, he got his<br />

Little Whitefield,<br />

near Wolfhill.


The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 10-11<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

lucky break, becoming a janitor at<br />

the Anderson College in Glasgow.<br />

Paid £1 a week, plus taxes, coal<br />

and a house, it was barely enough<br />

to sustain him, his wife, and his<br />

brother David, who now lived<br />

with them after the death of his<br />

mother. But James Croll was the<br />

happiest in his work that he had<br />

ever been. Often his brother would<br />

come to work with him and, whilst<br />

David did the chores, James would<br />

sit and read his way through the<br />

books in the extensive library.<br />

The theory proposed by Agassiz<br />

that glaciers were once much<br />

more advanced, and that their<br />

advance and retreat had shaped<br />

the landscape, was now much<br />

more firmly established. In 1864,<br />

Croll waded into this debate and<br />

wrote a paper for the Philosophical<br />

Magazine, On the Physical Cause<br />

of the Change of Climate During<br />

Glacial Epochs, based on the<br />

eccentricity of the Earth’s orbit<br />

and its effect on the ice ages. He<br />

developed the idea that there were<br />

several ice ages, brought about<br />

in part by changes in the orbit of<br />

the Earth round the sun, by the<br />

tilt of the Earth in relation to the<br />

sun during different seasons, and<br />

by the ‘wobble’ of the magnetic<br />

poles over time. The combination<br />

of these factors, exacerbated by<br />

‘feedbacks’ like changes in the<br />

extent of ice and the consequent<br />

variation in the Earth reflecting<br />

sunlight back into space, could<br />

explain the regularity and causes<br />

of several historical ice ages, and<br />

indeed predict future ones.<br />

This began a period in which Croll<br />

corresponded regularly with many<br />

of the greatest scientific minds<br />

of the day – arguing, commenting<br />

on and explaining theories about<br />

subjects such as the ice ages,<br />

ocean currents, and evolution. His<br />

regular correspondents included<br />

Darwin, Tyndall, Lyell, Wallace,<br />

Lord Kelvin, Joseph Hooker<br />

and Fridtjof Nansen, and his<br />

reputation grew.<br />

In 1867, he was persuaded by<br />

Archibald Geikie (one of RSGS’s<br />

founders) to join the Geological<br />

Survey of Scotland, despite failing<br />

the entrance exam. Unfortunately<br />

once again Croll was blighted<br />

with increasing head pains which<br />

affected his concentration and<br />

limited his ability to develop his<br />

thinking – something for which he<br />

was typically apologetic.<br />

In 1875, he published his most<br />

critical work, Climate and Time,<br />

the distillation of his theory of<br />

ice ages and Earth’s orbit. In<br />

1876, he was made a Fellow of<br />

the <strong>Royal</strong> <strong>Society</strong> and an Honorary<br />

Member of the New York Academy<br />

of Sciences, and was awarded an<br />

honorary degree by the University<br />

of St Andrews.<br />

Aged 59, forced to retire early<br />

from continuing ill health, Croll<br />

moved into rented lodgings in<br />

Perth. In all, he produced 92<br />

scientific papers, but in his last<br />

years he returned to the earlier<br />

themes of his religious papers,<br />

producing his fourth book, The<br />

Philosophical Basis of Evolution,<br />

which was rushed to print so that<br />

he saw a copy a few days before<br />

he died. Reportedly, he celebrated<br />

with a glass of scotch, saying “I<br />

don’t think there’s much fear of<br />

me learning to drink now”.<br />

James Croll died on 15th<br />

December 1890, and is believed<br />

to be buried in an unmarked<br />

grave, close to the area in which<br />

he grew up. Maybe it is time to<br />

recognise this man from humble<br />

beginnings, whose intellect<br />

shone through despite his lack<br />

of formal education, misfortune<br />

and illnesses. A joiner? Yes, by<br />

necessity. A janitor? Yes and a<br />

happy man with it. A geologist?<br />

Somewhat ironically, given his<br />

indifference to it as a young<br />

man. A genius? Maybe. But<br />

an inspirational individual?<br />

Undoubtedly.<br />

James Croll is one of the pioneer<br />

<strong>Scottish</strong> geologists to be featured<br />

in the new three-part BBC TV<br />

series Men of Rock, presented by<br />

Professor Iain Stewart and due to<br />

be broadcast in November 2010.<br />

James Croll’s theory of climate change<br />

Dr Diarmid Finnegan, Queen’s University Belfast<br />

James Croll’s scientific reputation largely rests on his book,<br />

Climate and Time, which tackles a range of subjects, all<br />

related in some way to Croll’s astronomical theory of longterm<br />

climate change. The first third of the book is largely<br />

devoted to the cause, behaviour and climatic effects of<br />

ocean currents. In the middle third of the book, Croll points<br />

to some striking and original implications of his theory, and<br />

uses it to calibrate geological time. The final third deals<br />

with a more eclectic set of topics that in one way or another<br />

supplement and develop the book’s central argument.<br />

Against a general scepticism about the influence of orbital<br />

variations on the Earth’s climate, Croll argues that when the<br />

eccentricity of the Earth’s orbit is particularly pronounced,<br />

a glacial period is triggered in the hemisphere in which<br />

the winter solstice coincides, or nearly coincides, with the<br />

Earth being at the point in its orbit furthest from the sun<br />

(‘aphelion’). It followed from this deduction that when one<br />

hemisphere was experiencing a glacial period, the other<br />

was largely or completely ice-free. It also followed that the<br />

glacial epochs caused by pronounced eccentricity were<br />

characterised by a series of glacial and inter-glacial periods<br />

traceable to the precession of the equinoxes.<br />

Vital to Croll’s theory was an account of how the severe<br />

winters caused by pronounced eccentricity triggered other<br />

mechanisms that more than countered the effects of a short<br />

but hot summer. It was only by showing how pronounced<br />

eccentricity set in train a series of ‘feedback’ mechanisms<br />

that he could overcome objections to any astronomical<br />

theory of long-term climate change. In the final chapters of<br />

his book, he tackles subjects as diverse as the age of the<br />

sun, the causes of sea level change, the behaviour of ice<br />

sheets and the physics of glacier motion. Climate and Time<br />

is then a book of stunning range and original insight which<br />

was well received at the time. Croll’s leading ideas were<br />

widely contested and his book fed into a series of important<br />

scientific disputes over the age of the Earth, the<br />

dating, duration and effects of the ice age<br />

(ages) and the evolution of organic life.<br />

Croll, from our perspective, did of<br />

course get some things wrong.<br />

On the face of it, he was wrong<br />

about the dating of the last ice<br />

age and wrong about glacial<br />

periods occurring out of<br />

phase in the northern and<br />

southern hemisphere,<br />

amongst other things.<br />

However, taken on its<br />

own terms, Croll’s book<br />

stimulated significant<br />

scientific debate,<br />

opened up new research<br />

questions and, along<br />

the way, captivated<br />

scientific and nonscientific<br />

readers alike.<br />

It remains a remarkable<br />

tribute to a self-educated,<br />

coy but tenacious man.<br />

© NASA


Expert Views: Biodiversity<br />

Polar bears and their disappearing world<br />

Dr Andrew E Derocher, Professor of Biological Sciences, University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada<br />

“Polar bears<br />

are marine<br />

mammals.<br />

In parts of<br />

their range,<br />

bears are<br />

born, live,<br />

and die on<br />

the sea ice<br />

without ever<br />

setting foot<br />

on dry land.<br />

Dietary<br />

energy<br />

comes from<br />

the marine<br />

ecosystem.”<br />

For good reason, polar bears<br />

have become ‘poster-species’<br />

and embody the perils of climate<br />

change. From a reductionist<br />

perspective, the problem is<br />

habitat loss and their sea ice<br />

home disappearing or being<br />

fundamentally changed in ways<br />

that put their existence at risk.<br />

Polar bears evolved, perhaps as<br />

little as 134,000 years ago, during<br />

a warm spell called the Eemian<br />

interglacial. It may have been the<br />

warm spell that removed them<br />

from their brown bear ancestors<br />

but it was the abundance of naïve<br />

seals that drew them onto the sea<br />

ice in the first place. In an example<br />

of quantum evolution, polar bears<br />

rapidly diverged to become the<br />

largest and most predatory of the<br />

extant bears.<br />

While some consider polar bears<br />

to be the largest terrestrial<br />

predator, such a perspective is<br />

flawed. Polar bears are marine<br />

mammals. In parts of their range,<br />

bears are born, live, and die on the<br />

sea ice without ever setting foot<br />

on dry land. Dietary energy comes<br />

from the marine ecosystem.<br />

The prey of polar bears is<br />

primarily the 70kg ringed seal, the<br />

small meal deal, and secondarily<br />

the massive big seal meal, the<br />

bearded seal which can top 400kg.<br />

Both species are ice-breeders<br />

and only found over the shallow<br />

continental shelves of the Arctic<br />

Ocean and adjoining waters.<br />

Using ice projection models, it is estimated that two thirds of the world’s<br />

20,000-25,000 polar bears will disappear.<br />

Technically, polar bears are the<br />

most carnivorous bear but they<br />

do not each much meat. It is the<br />

massive energy-rich blubber stores<br />

of seals that allow polar bears to<br />

live in the Arctic.<br />

While most consider polar bears<br />

to be the quintessential Arctic<br />

species, they are found to latitudes<br />

south of Edinburgh in James Bay<br />

in Canada. The lifeline for polar<br />

bears is sea ice. Throughout the<br />

Arctic, sea ice is disappearing and<br />

is projected to continue to decline,<br />

but the pace of change varies<br />

dramatically in the 19 polar bear<br />

populations.<br />

The first polar bear symptom is<br />

a loss of stored body fat. Being<br />

skinnier sounds wonderful from<br />

a human perspective, but for<br />

polar bears it represents a loss of<br />

fasting ability. Polar bears take in<br />

the vast majority of their energy<br />

during the three to four spring<br />

months when seals are giving birth<br />

and nursing their pups. During<br />

this bout of gorging, polar bears<br />

direct the blubber from their prey<br />

directly onto their own bodies with<br />

astonishing efficiency and use this<br />

store when seals are unavailable.<br />

One female in Hudson Bay was<br />

caught in the autumn weighing<br />

99kg, but one year later, the now<br />

pregnant female had ballooned<br />

to 410kg and went on to produce<br />

triplets. Such huge females are<br />

now history in the area, but they<br />

used to fast for eight months<br />

while giving birth and<br />

rearing cubs on land,<br />

before heading back<br />

onto the sea ice to<br />

feed. Now, earlier sea<br />

ice break-up is forcing<br />

the bears ashore up<br />

to six weeks earlier.<br />

The bears burn<br />

almost a kilogram of<br />

fat every day spent<br />

fasting, and skinnier<br />

females produce<br />

fewer and lighter<br />

cubs that have lower<br />

survival rates. There<br />

are physiological<br />

limits to what the<br />

bears can do. Breakup<br />

in Hudson Bay in<br />

2010 was the earliest<br />

on record, and the<br />

western Hudson<br />

Bay population has<br />

declined over 20% in<br />

the last decade.<br />

Some people have either hopefully<br />

or ignorantly suggested that<br />

polar bears will adapt to a more<br />

terrestrial life. Unfortunately,<br />

we well know the fate of polar<br />

bears when sea ice becomes<br />

unreliable. Only 10,000 years ago,<br />

polar bears were abundant in the<br />

Baltic Sea. Fossil remains from<br />

throughout the area attest that<br />

they were a common species until<br />

the climate warmed. At the end of<br />

the Weichselian glaciation, polar<br />

bears disappeared from the Baltic<br />

even though sea ice still forms<br />

in some areas and ringed seals<br />

are still present. The ice does not<br />

last long enough to support polar<br />

bears, and the fasting period is too<br />

long.<br />

Such a fate appears to be in<br />

waiting for many polar bear<br />

populations. Using ice projection<br />

models, it is estimated that two<br />

thirds of the world’s 20,000-<br />

25,000 polar bears will disappear.<br />

It will still get cold in the Arctic<br />

in winter, but it will not be cold<br />

enough to provide sufficient ice<br />

for polar bears. The Arctic marine<br />

ecosystem will shift to an open<br />

ocean ecosystem, with Atlantic<br />

and Pacific species moving<br />

northward. Such changes are<br />

already occurring. Harp seals are<br />

pushing north and killer whales<br />

are showing up in places they<br />

have never been seen before. The<br />

new top predator will be the killer<br />

whale. Polar bears may hang on<br />

to the end of the century at the<br />

highest latitudes in the Canadian<br />

Archipelago and northern<br />

Greenland, but they cannot shift<br />

further north.<br />

The science of human-caused<br />

climate change is incredibly well<br />

founded; we understand the<br />

perils of global warming. We can<br />

ignore the fate of polar bears and<br />

continue along our current path,<br />

but future generations will mourn<br />

our collective selfishness. Polar<br />

bears are not the only species<br />

at risk from climate change, but<br />

they have come to represent what<br />

we stand to lose. By the time<br />

polar bear populations are in dire<br />

condition, we will be too busy<br />

to help them because we will be<br />

attending to the humanitarian<br />

disasters precipitated by climate<br />

change. Nonetheless, there is<br />

hope; it lies in reducing our carbon<br />

footprint.


The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 12-13<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

The Exploration of Subglacial Lake Ellsworth<br />

Dr Neil Ross, University of Edinburgh<br />

The underside of the West<br />

Antarctic Ice Sheet might<br />

not at first appear the most<br />

obvious environment to recover<br />

and analyse liquid water<br />

containing new and unique<br />

microbial life, but a major<br />

project led by the University of<br />

Edinburgh and funded by the<br />

Natural Environment Research<br />

Council (the ‘Lake Ellsworth<br />

Consortium’), is planning to do<br />

just that.<br />

Subglacial lakes are surprisingly<br />

common beneath the Antarctic<br />

ice sheets, and are one of the<br />

last unexplored environments and<br />

ecosystems on Earth. Two goals<br />

are driving interest in subglacial<br />

lakes: (i) understanding the<br />

origin, evolution and support<br />

systems for life in these water<br />

bodies; and (ii) the recovery of a<br />

record of ice sheet history from<br />

the sediments deposited on the<br />

lake floors.<br />

Subglacial Lake Ellsworth,<br />

beneath the West Antarctic Ice<br />

Sheet, has been selected as an<br />

ideal subglacial lake for achieving<br />

these goals through direct<br />

exploration, measurement and<br />

sampling. Geophysical surveys<br />

have shown that the lake, which<br />

is about the size and shape of<br />

Windermere, is up to 156m deep<br />

and underlain by soft, finegrained<br />

muds similar to those at<br />

the bottom of the deep oceans.<br />

These discoveries have confirmed<br />

Lake Ellsworth as an ideal target<br />

for exploration, and have enabled<br />

a very specific access location to<br />

be defined.<br />

The exploration of Lake Ellsworth<br />

is planned for the 2012-13<br />

Antarctic field season. There<br />

are evident logistical challenges<br />

associated with delivering a<br />

major scientific project in West<br />

Antarctica. In Antarctic terms,<br />

however, Lake Ellsworth is very<br />

much accessible: it is within the<br />

typical operational area of the<br />

British Antarctic Survey (BAS)<br />

and it is less than 200km from<br />

the ‘blue-ice’ runway at Union<br />

Glacier run by Antarctic Logistics<br />

and Expeditions (ALE). This<br />

means that even heavy, bulky<br />

equipment can be transported<br />

relatively easily from South<br />

America (by plane to Union<br />

Glacier and by ground-based<br />

tractor traverse from there to the<br />

lake).<br />

Hot water drilling will be used<br />

to create the lake access hole.<br />

Pressurised hot water (produced<br />

from melted and heated snow<br />

and ice) will be pumped through<br />

a long (>3km) hose with a metal<br />

nozzle at its end. The nozzle will<br />

be gradually lowered into the ice,<br />

melting an approximately 36cm<br />

diameter borehole through the<br />

entire ice sheet. A remarkably<br />

straight access hole can be<br />

drilled this way, simply by letting<br />

gravity do all the hard work.<br />

There are two reasons for using<br />

hot water drilling. Firstly, it<br />

enables rapid access through the<br />

ice in one field season (ice core<br />

drilling of similar ice thicknesses<br />

normally takes several seasons).<br />

Secondly, and importantly, it<br />

maximises the cleanliness of<br />

the lake access operation. The<br />

cleanliness and sterility of<br />

equipment is central to both the<br />

success of the science and the<br />

environmental stewardship of<br />

the subglacial environment, and<br />

such considerations are therefore<br />

being integrated, from the outset,<br />

into equipment design, build and<br />

deployment.<br />

A custom-built probe, equipped<br />

with an array of sensors, will be<br />

used to measure and sample the<br />

lake. This probe will be deployed<br />

via the access hole and will be<br />

linked to the ‘command-centre’<br />

on the ice surface with a tether,<br />

through which the probe can be<br />

controlled and data and imagery<br />

relayed for real-time viewing<br />

and analysis. Initially, the probe<br />

will descend through the water<br />

column, making measurements<br />

of the physical and chemical<br />

properties of the water. The<br />

sampling sequence will be<br />

initiated once the probe reaches<br />

the lake floor where it will recover<br />

a very short (


Opinion On: Biodiversity<br />

Survival: saving endangered migratory species<br />

Stanley Johnson<br />

Stanley Johnson<br />

is a trustee<br />

of the Gorilla<br />

Organisation and<br />

an Ambassador<br />

for the United<br />

Nations<br />

Convention<br />

on Migratory<br />

Species. In<br />

1984 he was<br />

awarded the<br />

Greenpeace Prize<br />

for Outstanding<br />

Services to the<br />

Environment<br />

and the RSPCA<br />

Richard Martin<br />

Award for<br />

services to<br />

animal welfare.<br />

He is co-author<br />

of Survival: Saving<br />

Endangered<br />

Migratory Species,<br />

a richly illustrated<br />

and meticulously<br />

researched<br />

book published<br />

by Stacey<br />

International<br />

earlier this year.<br />

A few months ago I travelled in<br />

a hot-air balloon over vast herds<br />

of wildlife as they migrated from<br />

Tanzania’s Serengeti National<br />

Park into Kenya’s Masai Mara<br />

Game Reserve. The sight was<br />

unbelievable, unforgettable. As far<br />

as the eye could see the plains<br />

were black with animals. One and<br />

a half million wildebeest;<br />

half a million zebra;<br />

another half<br />

million topis,<br />

elands and<br />

Thompson’s<br />

gazelles.<br />

This truly<br />

is one of<br />

the world’s<br />

great<br />

migrations,<br />

perhaps the<br />

greatest wildlife<br />

spectacle on<br />

Earth.<br />

For the last five years, as I<br />

undertook research for the book<br />

Survival: Saving Endangered<br />

Migratory Species which I have coauthored<br />

with Robert Vagg, I have<br />

been privileged to visit the most<br />

far-flung corners of the globe. I<br />

have been in the Sahara desert,<br />

in the very heart of Niger, looking<br />

for the addax, the rarest of all<br />

desert antelopes. I have trekked<br />

gorillas in both Central and West<br />

Africa, spent time with giant river<br />

otters in Brazil’s Pantanal and in<br />

the Amazon, and camped among<br />

the orang-utans in Borneo’s now<br />

much-threatened forests.<br />

This has been one of the most<br />

exciting projects I have ever<br />

undertaken. One day, from the<br />

deck of a small former fishingboat<br />

in Mexico’s Sea of Cortes<br />

(otherwise known as the Gulf<br />

of California), I saw at least 20<br />

blue whales, thought to be the<br />

largest of all the creatures that<br />

have ever lived on this planet, a<br />

species which for decades has<br />

been hovering on the edge of<br />

extinction. On Española Island<br />

in the Galapagos, I was able<br />

to observe at close quarters<br />

colonies of waved albatross. (Of<br />

the 19 currently listed albatross<br />

species, 15 are classified as<br />

threatened with extinction.) I once<br />

spent a week with researchers<br />

from the environmental charity<br />

Earthwatch, pacing up and down<br />

a Costa Rican beach to protect<br />

the newly-laid eggs of the mighty<br />

leatherback turtle. Once there<br />

were 90,000 mating female<br />

leatherbacks in the Pacific. Today,<br />

there are fewer than 5,000.<br />

The book is about the battle<br />

to save the world’s<br />

endangered<br />

migratory<br />

species.<br />

Because<br />

many<br />

of them<br />

move from<br />

country<br />

to country,<br />

international<br />

action is often<br />

essential. Since<br />

January 2007, I<br />

have been honoured<br />

to be an Ambassador for the<br />

United Nations Environment<br />

Programme’s Convention on<br />

Migratory Species (CMS). Under<br />

the auspices of the CMS, more<br />

than two dozen international<br />

treaties and other instruments<br />

have been negotiated with a view<br />

to protecting migratory species.<br />

Elephants, African and Pacific<br />

cetaceans, saiga antelopes,<br />

South American grassland birds<br />

and flamingos, Atlantic monk<br />

seals, Africa-Eurasian birds of<br />

prey, Indian Ocean and Pacific<br />

dugongs, gorillas, sharks and<br />

houbara bustards – international<br />

agreements of one kind or<br />

another have been reached in<br />

respect of all of these – and<br />

more. I pay special tribute here<br />

to Robert Vagg, who has so<br />

painstakingly helped to research<br />

and record the substance of<br />

these measures.<br />

The challenges that remain<br />

are great. Treaties have to be<br />

implemented, as well as signed.<br />

New threats are constantly<br />

arising. As I write, in July<br />

2010, plans are afoot to drive<br />

a road right through the heart<br />

of the Serengeti with untold<br />

consequences for migrating<br />

wildlife. Last June, at the meeting<br />

of the IWC (International Whaling<br />

Convention), the international<br />

moratorium on commercial<br />

whaling came close to<br />

unravelling. The consequences for<br />

wildlife, such as marine turtles,<br />

of the horrendous oil-spill in the<br />

Gulf of Mexico have still to be<br />

assessed, as do the implications<br />

for species like the orang-utan of<br />

the mad rush, mandated by the<br />

EU, to fill our cars with biodiesel<br />

made from palm oil.<br />

Recent research undertaken<br />

for the CMS by the Zoological<br />

<strong>Society</strong> of London (ZSL) shows<br />

that even the subtle changes in<br />

environmental conditions that<br />

could be caused by climate<br />

change could have catastrophic<br />

consequences for animals that<br />

migrate. At a meeting held at ZSL<br />

to launch Survival, CMS Executive<br />

Secretary Elizabeth Maruma<br />

Mrema said “Migratory species<br />

are particularly threatened by<br />

climate change as they depend<br />

on different habitats to breed,<br />

feed and rest. The findings from<br />

the (ZSL) report will facilitate the<br />

Convention’s response to assist<br />

migratory species in adapting to<br />

climate change at a global level.”<br />

It is my sincere hope that this<br />

book may play its part in helping<br />

create greater public awareness<br />

of the astonishing treasure<br />

represented by migratory<br />

species, and of the threats which<br />

they face. I also hope that it may<br />

inspire decision-makers, both in<br />

the UK and elsewhere, even at<br />

this time of budgetary stringency,<br />

to press for more effective action<br />

to protect some of nature’s most<br />

precious resources.


Opinion On: Population<br />

Peoplequake<br />

Fred Pearce<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 14-15<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

Here is some good news. We are<br />

defusing the population bomb.<br />

And it is being done without<br />

draconian measures by big<br />

government. Instead, it is being<br />

done by the world’s poorest<br />

women. Today’s women have just<br />

half as many children as their<br />

mothers – an average of 2.6.<br />

It’s a reproductive revolution<br />

going on round the world, right<br />

now. And 2.6 is getting close to<br />

the replacement level. Allowing<br />

for girls who don’t make it to<br />

adulthood, women need to have<br />

around 2.3 children to keep up<br />

numbers.<br />

They are having that number or<br />

fewer in half the world today,<br />

including Europe, North America<br />

and the Caribbean, most of the<br />

Far East from Japan to Vietnam<br />

and Thailand, and much of the<br />

Middle East from Algeria to Iran.<br />

Yes, Iran. In the past 25 years,<br />

behind the veil, the number of<br />

children that Iranian women are<br />

having has crashed from eight<br />

to less than two. To 1.7 in fact.<br />

Women in Teheran today have<br />

fewer children than their sisters<br />

in New York.<br />

How much coercion has been<br />

involved in this change? A bit,<br />

especially in China. The one-child<br />

policy is brutal and repulsive. But<br />

the odd thing is that it may not<br />

make much difference any more.<br />

When Britain handed Hong Kong<br />

back to China in 1997, it had<br />

the lowest fertility in the world –<br />

below one child per woman. It<br />

was their choice: Governor Chris<br />

Patten was not running a covert<br />

one-child policy.<br />

Family planning experts used<br />

to say that women only started<br />

having fewer children when<br />

they got educated or escaped<br />

poverty. Pessimists feared that<br />

if rising population stopped<br />

people getting rich, they would<br />

get caught in a vicious cycle of<br />

poverty and large families.<br />

But tell that to women in<br />

Bangladesh. It is one of the<br />

world’s poorest nations. Its girls<br />

are among the least educated in<br />

the world, and mostly marry in<br />

their mid-teens. Yet they have on<br />

average just three children now.<br />

India is even lower at 2.8, half<br />

the figure in 1980. In Brazil,<br />

hotbed of Catholicism, most<br />

women have two children. And<br />

nothing the priests say can<br />

stop millions of them getting<br />

sterilised.<br />

What is going on? I think<br />

something very simple. Women<br />

are having smaller families<br />

because, for the first time in<br />

history, they can. In the 20th<br />

century, medical science largely<br />

eradicated the diseases that used<br />

to kill most children. So today’s<br />

mothers no longer need to have<br />

five or six children to ensure the<br />

next generation. Two or three is<br />

enough; and that is what they are<br />

doing.<br />

There are holdouts, of course.<br />

In parts of the Middle East,<br />

traditional patriarchs still hold<br />

sway. In much of rural Africa,<br />

women still have five or more<br />

children. But the big story is<br />

that rich or poor, socialist or<br />

capitalist, Muslim or Catholic,<br />

secular or devout, with tough<br />

government birth control policies<br />

or none, small families are the<br />

new norm in most of the world.<br />

Now it is true that population<br />

growth has not ceased yet. We<br />

have 6.8 billion people today,<br />

and could end up with another<br />

two billion before the population<br />

growth ceases. But this is mainly<br />

because the huge numbers of<br />

young women born during the<br />

baby boom years of the 20th<br />

century remain fertile.<br />

The good news is that we do not<br />

face ever-rising numbers. If, as<br />

seems likely, most of the world<br />

reaches below replacement<br />

fertility, we will see peak<br />

population by mid-century. After<br />

that, the world’s population will<br />

probably begin shrinking.<br />

What does this mean for the<br />

environment? Well, it is good<br />

news, of course. But don’t put<br />

out the flags. Because rising<br />

consumption today is a far<br />

bigger threat to the planet than<br />

a rising head-count. And most<br />

of that extra consumption is still<br />

happening in rich countries.<br />

Take climate change. The world’s<br />

richest half billion people –<br />

that’s about 7% of the global<br />

population – are responsible for<br />

half the world’s carbon dioxide<br />

emissions. Meanwhile the poor<br />

50% are responsible for just 7%<br />

of emissions. So there is no way<br />

that halting population growth in<br />

the poor world is going to have<br />

more than a very marginal effect<br />

on climate change.<br />

Yes, some of those extra poor<br />

people might one day become<br />

rich. And if they do – and I<br />

hope they do – their impact on<br />

the planet will be greater. But<br />

it is the world’s consumption<br />

patterns we need to fix, not its<br />

reproductive habits. Every time<br />

we talk about too many babies<br />

in Africa or India, we are denying<br />

the fact that the population bomb<br />

is being defused, while we have<br />

not even begun to defuse the<br />

consumption bomb.<br />

“The good<br />

news is<br />

that we do<br />

not face<br />

ever-rising<br />

numbers.<br />

If, as seems<br />

likely, most<br />

of the world<br />

reaches<br />

below<br />

replacement<br />

fertility, we<br />

will see peak<br />

population<br />

by midcentury.”


On Opinions the Map On: Biodiversity<br />

Valuing Nature<br />

Dan Box<br />

“For some,<br />

this kind of<br />

talk is ugly.<br />

Bringing<br />

nature on to<br />

the balance<br />

sheet<br />

involves<br />

letting go<br />

of the belief<br />

that nature<br />

is valuable<br />

in its own<br />

right.”<br />

The city of Nagoya in Japan<br />

is one of the major organs in<br />

the global body corporate. Its<br />

skyscrapers provide offices for<br />

Toyota, Mitsubishi and Boeing,<br />

and industrial output from the<br />

region is the highest in Japan. A<br />

telling choice of venue, then, for<br />

a meeting of the UN Convention<br />

on Biological Diversity to assess<br />

whether governments have met<br />

their public commitments to<br />

protect wildlife, which takes place<br />

in October 2010.<br />

By any measure, these<br />

governments have failed. The<br />

man in charge, Secretary-General<br />

Ahmed Djoghlaf describes the<br />

situation as “a total disaster”.<br />

One hundred and ninety three<br />

countries have committed to the<br />

legally binding treaty to reduce<br />

species loss, but only 140 have<br />

even submitted plans and only<br />

16 have revised those plans since<br />

1993.<br />

The result, according to the<br />

United Nations Environment<br />

Programme, is a mass extinction<br />

of life worldwide. Scientists<br />

estimate 150-200 species of<br />

plant, insect, bird and mammal<br />

become extinct every 24 hours.<br />

Time then to try something<br />

different?<br />

One set-piece event at the 12-day<br />

long meeting in Nagoya will be<br />

the publication of the final The<br />

Economics of Ecosystems and<br />

Biodiversity (TEEB) report, which<br />

aims to do for species loss what<br />

the Stern reports did for climate<br />

change; that is, put a monetary<br />

value on something most<br />

businesses have previously been<br />

happy to ignore. In the words of<br />

their outline report, how do we go<br />

about “recapitalising nature”?<br />

As a starting point, take a recent<br />

study that put the global value<br />

of honey bees and other insect<br />

pollinators at $189 billion a<br />

year. These insects busy at<br />

work ferrying pollen from plant<br />

to plant are an example of an<br />

‘ecosystem service’, something<br />

that nature provides for free and<br />

which humans would have to pay<br />

for if the natural system broke<br />

down. Others include clean air<br />

and water, soil formation, and<br />

the health benefits wild green<br />

spaces have for those with access<br />

to them.<br />

All of these depend upon<br />

biodiversity – the range of<br />

species in any given area that<br />

make up an ecosystem. One<br />

landmark study put the estimated<br />

global value of ecosystem<br />

services at US$33 trillion per<br />

year at 1994 prices (almost<br />

$50tn today) – far more than<br />

the $18tn figure for global gross<br />

domestic product (the total value<br />

of everything actually produced<br />

by the global economy). The<br />

TEEB report is now expected to<br />

say that saving biodiversity is<br />

also cost-effective. The financial<br />

benefits that ecosystem services<br />

provide are between 10 and 100<br />

times the cost of saving the<br />

relevant habitats and species<br />

themselves.<br />

For some, this kind of talk is ugly.<br />

Bringing nature on to the balance<br />

sheet involves letting go of the<br />

belief that nature is valuable<br />

in its own right. For those who<br />

have long campaigned on this<br />

basis against, say, oil companies<br />

and mining giants, doing so is<br />

like agreeing to fight on your<br />

opponent’s ground. For others, it<br />

is just about boxing clever.<br />

Putting an economic value on<br />

nature is the first step to saying<br />

businesses have to account<br />

for the cost of causing natural<br />

damage by, say, cutting down a<br />

tree to build a road. Historically,<br />

companies have never had to<br />

do this. Such damage was an<br />

‘externality’, a natural or social<br />

cost that they themselves did not<br />

have to meet. Yet picture this: a<br />

separate recent survey calculated<br />

the value of a single tree in<br />

central London to be about<br />

£78,000, measured in terms of<br />

carbon capture, flood prevention,<br />

quality of life etc. Imagine if that<br />

cost had to be accounted for by<br />

the road-builder. Suddenly, nature<br />

has an influence where it matters<br />

most, on the bottom line. Would<br />

that tree still be felled?<br />

Seeing nature in terms of profit<br />

and loss would also affect<br />

national policy. Given the huge<br />

value of what they produce,<br />

if ecosystem services were<br />

measured up within the national<br />

accounts, saving the biodiversity<br />

that produces them would<br />

suddenly no longer be a liability.<br />

It would be smart economics<br />

instead.<br />

Yes, all this means some<br />

dedicated conservationists,<br />

anti-oil and anti-mine protestors<br />

will find the ground shift<br />

uncomfortably beneath their feet.<br />

They may resent the cause they<br />

have championed for so long<br />

being taken up in boardrooms,<br />

by men in suits. Yet both the<br />

British Institute of Chartered<br />

Accountants and the International<br />

Accounting Standards Board<br />

have discussed new rules forcing<br />

companies to publish data on<br />

their environmental impacts with<br />

Pavan Sukhdev, the Deutsche<br />

Bank banker in charge of the<br />

TEEB report. If the tree remains<br />

standing, does it actually matter<br />

who made the decision to let it<br />

remain, a conservationist or an<br />

accountant?<br />

Dan is speaking to RSGS<br />

audiences in Inverness, Perth<br />

and Stirling in October.


Biodiversity teetering on the edge<br />

Dr Deborah Long, Conservation Manager, Plantlife Scotland Mike Robinson, Chief Executive, RSGS<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong><br />

16-17<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

The United Nations has declared<br />

2010 as International Year of<br />

Biodiversity, celebrating biodiversity<br />

and committing to its long term<br />

conservation. This year is a good<br />

year to take stock, assess how we<br />

are doing and look forward to where<br />

we need to be in the future. There is<br />

wide acknowledgement that neither<br />

Scotland, nor any other part of the<br />

UK, will meet the European target<br />

to halt the loss of biodiversity.<br />

The most recent assessment of<br />

the priority species and habitats<br />

in Scotland showed that 61%<br />

of species and 56% of habitats<br />

were declining or showed no clear<br />

trend. Why are we still losing native<br />

species and habitats in Scotland, a<br />

nation which often defines itself by<br />

its wildlife and landscape?<br />

A good place to start is with plants<br />

and fungi, the bottom of all food<br />

chains. Between 1998 and 2007,<br />

the plant species richness in our<br />

countryside declined by about<br />

10%. Even in botanically rich areas,<br />

plant diversity declined by 12%.<br />

High species diversity confers<br />

stability to ecosystems: every<br />

species has a role, even if we don’t<br />

know what that role is, and every<br />

time we lose a species, a tiny piece<br />

of the jigsaw falls away. Because<br />

plants and fungi are at the bottom<br />

of all food chains and ecosystems,<br />

their loss has heralded catastrophic<br />

environmental change in other<br />

parts of the world. Are we watching<br />

the decline of our native plants<br />

and fungi as a precursor to more<br />

dramatic environmental losses here<br />

in Scotland?<br />

“The last word in ignorance is the<br />

man who says of an animal or a<br />

plant: “What good is it?”…If the<br />

biota in the course of aeons has<br />

built something that we like but<br />

do not understand, then who but<br />

a fool would discard seemingly<br />

useless parts? To keep every cog<br />

and wheel is the first precaution<br />

of intelligent tinkering.”<br />

Aldo Leopold (1887-1948)<br />

Scotland’s landscape is the result<br />

of thousands of years of human<br />

activity, all shaping the landscape,<br />

its species and habitats. Five<br />

thousand years ago, Scotland was<br />

heavily wooded. Now less than<br />

3% of our landscape is native<br />

woodland. Indeed, if we stopped<br />

ploughing, draining, grazing and<br />

building, much of the country<br />

would revert to woodland, our<br />

climax vegetation everywhere,<br />

except for the high mountain tops<br />

and exposed coasts. Instead, we<br />

have largely become used to more<br />

of an ‘anti-climax’ vegetation,<br />

characterised by over-grazed<br />

hillsides, degraded soils, drained<br />

peat bogs and mono-cultural<br />

agriculture.<br />

Much of the<br />

native wildlife<br />

that depends on<br />

these woodlands<br />

has experienced<br />

similar declines –<br />

red squirrels,<br />

pine martens,<br />

capercaillie,<br />

twinflower, even<br />

the Scots pine.<br />

Historical accounts<br />

clearly show that<br />

there used to<br />

be a lot more woodland wildlife<br />

than we are used to now: in the<br />

19th century, for instance, more<br />

capercaillie were shot in a single<br />

day on a single estate in Perthshire<br />

than now live in total in the various<br />

small pockets from Loch Lomond<br />

to Spey Bay. These isolated pockets<br />

of wildlife are doomed to continued<br />

decline unless we can expand their<br />

habitats and start to link these<br />

tiny fragments back together so<br />

species can spread and thrive.<br />

We are beginning to see efforts to<br />

reconnect populations but we have<br />

a long way to go before their future<br />

is secure.<br />

It is an irony that today, at a time<br />

when we have unprecedented levels<br />

of understanding of organisms,<br />

and when we continue to find new<br />

species even in Scotland, we are<br />

finding it impossible to stem the<br />

rate of their loss.<br />

Despite access to very secure<br />

food supplies, available in an<br />

ever astonishing variety, all year<br />

round, British farmers struggle<br />

with ever smaller margins. Despite<br />

worries about the increasing use of<br />

industrial agricultural technologies,<br />

we depend more and more on<br />

a limited genetic range of food<br />

plants. There are more than 2,000<br />

varieties of apple known in Britain,<br />

yet only 30 of them are grown<br />

commercially and as the protection<br />

from natural genetic diversity<br />

narrows, pesticide use goes up to<br />

try to replace it.<br />

Even more worryingly, more than<br />

80% of the world’s population<br />

depend on herbal medicine for<br />

primary health care. Today, about<br />

15,000 species of medicinal plants<br />

are threatened globally, because<br />

of habitat loss,<br />

commercial<br />

over-harvesting,<br />

invasive species<br />

and pollution. And<br />

these are just the<br />

species we know<br />

about. More than<br />

60% of drugs<br />

discovered in the<br />

last 20–30 years<br />

have originated<br />

from plants and<br />

they will continue<br />

to be a significant<br />

source for future cures, if we let<br />

them.<br />

We have pushed back, built on,<br />

chipped away at, dumped, drained<br />

and polluted so many areas of our<br />

wild land that only small sections<br />

remain in remote corners, where<br />

species cling to mountain tops<br />

and cliffs, or are being inexorably<br />

marched over a cliff into the sea<br />

and off the land forever. They would<br />

not teeter on the edge of these<br />

unstable habitats by choice: they<br />

have retreated to these aeries,<br />

driven out of more benign spots<br />

by our voracious appetite for large<br />

scale management. But we can and<br />

are seeing some signs of change.<br />

If you need convincing, look out<br />

when you next drive through<br />

Drumochter. Reductions in deer<br />

pressure are leading to saplings<br />

of varying heights bursting out of<br />

the heather in all directions. It is<br />

inspiring to stop and take it all in,<br />

for here before our eyes is the birth<br />

of a new forest. It can be done.<br />

To find out more, visit www.<br />

plantlife.org.uk and download a<br />

copy of Plantlife’s Ghost Orchid<br />

Declaration: Saving the UK’s wild<br />

flowers today.<br />

“To protect<br />

the environment<br />

costs<br />

a lot. To do<br />

nothing will<br />

cost much<br />

more.”<br />

Kofi Annan


Education<br />

Orang-utan research project<br />

Graham L Banes<br />

“In 2008, the <strong>Society</strong> took a ‘leap of<br />

faith’ and made a small grant to fund<br />

our expedition: by June of that year,<br />

Orang-utan ’08 was in full swing.”<br />

Main shot:<br />

Kusasi is the<br />

dominant male<br />

orang-utan.<br />

An orang-utan<br />

welcomes us to<br />

Tanjung Puting<br />

National Park.<br />

Counting ‘nests’<br />

involved looking<br />

up at the tree<br />

and trying to<br />

distinguish<br />

the sleeping<br />

platforms from<br />

the foliage<br />

surrounding<br />

them. When a<br />

tree contained a<br />

nest, we tagged it<br />

with bright-orange<br />

tape to facilitate<br />

re-counts and<br />

prevent us from<br />

counting the<br />

same nest twice.<br />

All travel within<br />

the Park,<br />

including along<br />

the crocodileinfested<br />

Sekonyer<br />

river, was by<br />

kelotok, a sort<br />

of motorised<br />

longboat; here,<br />

local children<br />

watch us load up.<br />

An infant orangutan.<br />

The Bornean orang-utan is an<br />

endangered species endemic<br />

to the island of Borneo, where<br />

less than 54,000 individuals are<br />

thought to remain in a small<br />

number of wild populations. Of<br />

all species, they are among the<br />

most closely-related to humans –<br />

we share 96.5% of our DNA with<br />

orang-utans and their name, from<br />

Malay, even translates to ‘person<br />

of the forest’. Despite<br />

this, we do little to<br />

respect our arboreal<br />

kin: orang-utans<br />

are continually<br />

threatened by<br />

habitat loss,<br />

hunting and the<br />

pet trade. More<br />

than 90% of<br />

original orang-utan<br />

habitat is thought to<br />

have already been<br />

destroyed.<br />

My intention to study orangutans<br />

was realised at the<br />

University of Aberdeen, while<br />

reading my Bachelor’s degree in<br />

Zoology. When given the option<br />

of writing a ‘standard’ thesis or<br />

going further afield to collect<br />

primary data, I opted to head<br />

for Indonesia to study orangutans<br />

in the wild. I was fortunate<br />

to receive ample support from<br />

academic staff, notably Dr David<br />

Burslem and Prof Paul Racey,<br />

who encouraged me to plan<br />

an expedition and to recruit<br />

three fellow students to assist<br />

in data collection. Procuring<br />

financial support was rather<br />

more difficult, however. Despite<br />

having spent months planning<br />

a sound expedition, and despite<br />

having gained approval from the<br />

Indonesian authorities, we were<br />

turned down by innumerable<br />

funding organisations. Nobody<br />

wanted to fund undergraduate<br />

students, especially those who<br />

had no experience of field work<br />

and who had never seen orangutans<br />

outside of the zoo.<br />

An orang-utan and I sit<br />

companionably around a tree.<br />

The RSGS was a notable<br />

exception. In 2008, the <strong>Society</strong><br />

took a ‘leap of faith’ and made<br />

a small grant to fund our<br />

expedition: by June of that year,<br />

Orang-utan ’08 was in full swing.<br />

Over five months, we conducted<br />

line-transect surveys of orangutan<br />

sleeping platforms to<br />

determine population density in<br />

Tanjung Puting National Park,<br />

Central Kalimantan. Our<br />

study was the first to<br />

assess the orangutan<br />

population<br />

in Tanjung Puting<br />

since 2003 and was<br />

the first to conduct<br />

line-transect surveys<br />

at primary peatswamp<br />

forest sites. We<br />

determined Tanjung<br />

Puting to harbour up<br />

to 9,000 orang-utans, rendering<br />

it home to the world’s largest<br />

orang-utan population. We also<br />

found that the orang-utans there<br />

could adapt well in the long term<br />

following logging, once forest<br />

has been left to recover. Notably,<br />

we observed no evidence of<br />

orang-utans in sites disturbed<br />

by fire, concluding that efforts to<br />

safeguard Tanjung Puting should<br />

remain a conservation priority.<br />

I remain eternally grateful to<br />

the RSGS: our expedition would<br />

not have been possible without<br />

the support and encouragement<br />

of the <strong>Society</strong>’s board and<br />

members. However, our research<br />

doesn’t end here: I remain<br />

committed to the orang-utans of<br />

Tanjung Puting and now continue<br />

my work at the University of<br />

Cambridge. Please visit our<br />

website (www.prime.bioanth.<br />

cam.ac.uk/graham) to read more<br />

about our orang-utan research<br />

programme, funded in part by<br />

the RSGS.


Curriculum for<br />

Excellence and<br />

Outdoor Learning:<br />

Geography can lead the way<br />

Erica M Caldwell<br />

RSGS Education Convener<br />

Part of the conclusion of the report<br />

Curriculum for Excellence and Outdoor<br />

Learning, published by Learning and<br />

Teaching Scotland earlier this year,<br />

states “As Curriculum for Excellence<br />

becomes embedded in every<br />

establishment and other contexts<br />

for learning, now is the ideal time<br />

for all educators and partners to<br />

create, develop and deliver outdoor<br />

learning opportunities which can be<br />

embedded in the new curriculum.<br />

From school grounds to streets<br />

of cities, forests to farms, ponds<br />

to paths, coastlines to castles,<br />

moors to mountains, Scotland has<br />

a rich wealth of outdoor learning<br />

opportunities which will help children<br />

and young people make connections<br />

within and across curriculum areas.”<br />

Geography departments are in an<br />

ideal position to lead the way in<br />

addressing this aspect of Curriculum<br />

for Excellence. Geography teachers<br />

have been taking their pupils out of<br />

school for a long time, and have built<br />

up an expertise which they may not<br />

realise they possess. Departments<br />

and teachers need to capitalise on<br />

their skills in outdoor learning at<br />

this crucial time in the development<br />

of Curriculum for Excellence in<br />

secondary schools.<br />

What kind of skills? Skills such as<br />

having aims so that the work is<br />

purposeful, enjoyable, safe, and<br />

perceived as ‘worthwhile’ by pupils,<br />

parents and other staff; getting<br />

permission from head teachers<br />

and parents; negotiating with other<br />

departments; liaising with landowners<br />

for permission to visit; working with<br />

various organisations (eg Dynamic<br />

Earth, National Parks) and bus<br />

companies; keeping the minibus<br />

driving licence up to date; making<br />

lists of pupils, and of tasks to be<br />

done before/during/after; preparing<br />

work booklets; organising class cover;<br />

leaving work for other classes while<br />

doing fieldwork during the school<br />

week; negotiating with family if it’s at<br />

the weekend or during the holidays;<br />

booking hostel/hotel accommodation;<br />

working with a tour company if going<br />

abroad; and, of course, doing the risk<br />

assessment!<br />

Geography teachers use these<br />

skills regularly. They can share<br />

this experience and expertise with<br />

other departments to allow cooperation<br />

and develop outdoor<br />

learning which can also cross subject<br />

boundaries and which “contributes to<br />

delivering the <strong>Scottish</strong> Government’s<br />

overarching strategic objectives<br />

towards ‘creating a more successful<br />

country’”.<br />

University of Edinburgh<br />

Malawi<br />

Dr William Mackaness was awarded<br />

a fellowship by the Scotland<br />

Malawi Partnership (SMP) to allow<br />

him to work in Malawi for three<br />

months this summer. The vision<br />

of the SMP is to foster mutually<br />

beneficial links between Scotland<br />

and Malawi and encourage the<br />

development of sustainable<br />

projects in Malawi. Dr Mackaness<br />

was based at Chancellor College<br />

in Zomba, working with staff in<br />

the Department of Geography and<br />

Earth Sciences. The ambition has<br />

been to set up two way research,<br />

drawing on the expertise of both<br />

institutions.<br />

Informal economies<br />

Dr Abel Polese is exploring the<br />

origins of informal economies in<br />

transitional countries using the<br />

case study of three regions in<br />

both Turkey and Ukraine. Whilst a<br />

single citizen’s extra-legal income<br />

may have limited relevance, when<br />

informal economies become a<br />

widespread, and accepted, way<br />

to produce welfare, this may be<br />

taken as an indicator of two things.<br />

Firstly, if people feel unprotected<br />

by their state they may refuse to<br />

acknowledge its role as economic<br />

regulator, creating a situation<br />

similar to pre-state societies.<br />

Secondly, informal economies may<br />

also become a way to oppose and<br />

renegotiate measures of political<br />

economy and can be taken as a<br />

sign that state attitude has to be<br />

changed.<br />

Open University in<br />

Scotland<br />

Volcano-Ice Interactions<br />

We are delighted<br />

that Dr Dave<br />

McGarvie has<br />

joined us; he will<br />

be continuing<br />

his long-running research into<br />

volcano-ice interactions, a topic that<br />

has raised its profile considerably<br />

due to Eyjafjallajökull’s 2010<br />

summit eruption. Dr McGarvie has<br />

recently returned from a research<br />

trip on the Askja volcano in central<br />

Iceland, working with a team of US<br />

and Icelandic geologists. Askja is<br />

a well-exposed and ice-free central<br />

volcano which may hold the key to<br />

a better understanding of Iceland’s<br />

ice-covered central volcanoes. While<br />

in Iceland, Dr McGarvie recorded<br />

material for a podcast, to be<br />

published on The Open University’s<br />

iTunes U site, open.edu/itunes,<br />

giving an insight into what it is like<br />

to undertake geological fieldwork in<br />

Iceland.<br />

University of Dundee<br />

Professor Alan Werritty FRSGS<br />

Alan retired from full-time academia<br />

at the end of September, after a<br />

distinguished career spanning over<br />

40 years. Always a charismatic<br />

and engaging ambassador, Alan<br />

has contributed greatly to raising<br />

the profile of geography, and is<br />

internationally recognised for his<br />

research into the dynamics of<br />

gravel-bed rivers, flood risk and<br />

climate change, and sustainable<br />

catchment management. Though<br />

retiring from full-time duties, Alan’s<br />

enthusiasm and commitment to<br />

geography remain undiminished<br />

and he looks forward to the joys of<br />

being more selective in terms of<br />

future research projects.<br />

Historic airmail found<br />

on Alpine glacier<br />

Freya Cowan, University of Dundee, with one of<br />

the letters that was found.<br />

Geography staff and students<br />

made an unexpected discovery<br />

during recent fieldwork to monitor<br />

conditions on the Miage glacier,<br />

Italy. Third-year student Freya<br />

Cowan stumbled across a bag<br />

of letters from an aeroplane that<br />

crashed on Mont Blanc in 1950.<br />

Astonishingly, the letters had<br />

survived 60 years in a very harsh<br />

environment. Over this time, the<br />

glacier had transported them over<br />

3km, with a descent of over 2.5km,<br />

to the spot where Freya found them.<br />

The finds include several personal<br />

letters, as well as company invoices,<br />

banker’s drafts and even a birthday<br />

card. Most seem to have been<br />

on their way from India to the<br />

United States, when the aeroplane<br />

tragically crashed on its way in to a<br />

stop-off in Geneva.<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong> 18-19<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

University News<br />

The RSGS’s<br />

academic journal<br />

is available<br />

from Taylor & Francis<br />

in hard copy<br />

or on-line at<br />

www.tandf.co.uk/<br />

journals/RSGJ


Making Connections<br />

The Making of Scotland’s Landscape Professor Iain Stewart<br />

Iain’s two TV<br />

series, The Making<br />

of Scotland’s<br />

Landscape and<br />

Men of Rock, and<br />

the radio series<br />

of downloadable<br />

audio walks,<br />

Walking through<br />

Landscape, are<br />

being broadcast<br />

this autumn.<br />

Having lived away from Scotland<br />

for some 20 years, one of the<br />

biggest surprises is just how<br />

fantastic it is – truly one of the<br />

most beautiful places in the<br />

world. I’ve always known that<br />

on some level, but having been<br />

immersed in it for six months,<br />

filming and recording, it has really<br />

hit home.<br />

But Scotland’s great ‘natural’<br />

beauty is anything but natural.<br />

Renowned as a fabulous<br />

wilderness, Scotland’s landscape<br />

has been extensively shaped by<br />

man.<br />

The Making of Scotland’s<br />

Landscape looks at how man<br />

harnessed five elements of our<br />

landscape – wood, earth, sea,<br />

water and air – with stories of<br />

amazing pioneers who dared to<br />

think beyond the parameters<br />

of their times, to come up with<br />

some terrific breakthroughs that<br />

we now take for granted. Take, for<br />

example, the episode on water.<br />

Only a few hundred years ago,<br />

Scotland was to a large extent a<br />

water-logged country, its capacity<br />

to produce food stymied by boggy<br />

fields, but now there is hardly a<br />

river or water way whose path<br />

hasn’t been controlled by man.<br />

And along the way, the power<br />

that water supplies has been well<br />

and truly harnessed. In a waterrich<br />

country like Scotland, water<br />

represents a new kind of power.<br />

Men of Rock also pays tribute to<br />

this land and the inspiration it<br />

provided for pioneer geologists.<br />

Scotland is one of the geologically<br />

oldest countries in the world,<br />

and it was this strange, beautiful<br />

stuff beneath our feet which<br />

provoked some men to find the<br />

answers to things people didn’t<br />

even know were questions at that<br />

time – men like James Hutton, the<br />

father of geology who was once a<br />

humble Borders farmer, or Arthur<br />

Holmes, who was the first to give<br />

a proper geological timescale<br />

of the world’s development, or<br />

indeed James Croll (see pages<br />

10-11). It is a rich heritage of<br />

thinkers based on a rich heritage<br />

of geology.<br />

Our geoheritage is something to<br />

celebrate, but it is not as simple<br />

as straightforward conservation.<br />

We need to use our resources with<br />

the same inspiration as drove<br />

these men of the past, to make<br />

them work for us sustainably – as<br />

tourism attractions, as mineral<br />

resources, as power – and as part<br />

and parcel of a modern resourcerich<br />

country.<br />

Iain is speaking to RSGS<br />

audiences in Aberdeen, Dundee<br />

and Edinburgh in November and<br />

December.<br />

The talk in Edinburgh on 2nd<br />

December will be hosted by Sally<br />

Magnusson and run in conjunction<br />

with BBC Scotland. Tickets are free,<br />

and must be booked in advance.<br />

See www.rsgs.org for details.<br />

What Geography Means To Me<br />

An insight<br />

into the<br />

life of a<br />

working<br />

geographer<br />

Malcolm Fleming<br />

Campaigns &<br />

Communications<br />

Manager<br />

Oxfam Scotland<br />

I’ve always had an<br />

ongoing frustration at<br />

the state of the world, its<br />

inequality and unfairness.<br />

In particular I get angry that<br />

people’s life chances, and<br />

even chance of life beyond<br />

infant years, are completely<br />

and utterly different from<br />

others through no fault of<br />

their own, but because of<br />

where they are born.<br />

Despite high principles that<br />

suggest every human life is of<br />

equal value, the way the world<br />

works means that that is not<br />

the reality, and today and every<br />

day tens of thousands of our<br />

fellow global citizens die from<br />

preventable poverty in a world<br />

where the number of billionaires<br />

continues to rise. Whether it’s<br />

malnutrition related, as a result<br />

of preventable diseases such as<br />

diarrhoea or malaria, or from<br />

maternal mortality, I find it<br />

incomprehensible that we allow<br />

the death toll to continue to rise.<br />

Geography first brought these<br />

issues alive for me and helped<br />

me begin to understand them.<br />

By comprehending the links and<br />

dynamics between people and<br />

places and the environment, I<br />

was able to begin to get to grips<br />

with what is going on in our<br />

complex world, and was also<br />

spurred to try to do my bit to<br />

solve some of the problems.<br />

Given my interest in people and<br />

places, it was perhaps inevitable<br />

that in studying geography at<br />

the University of Aberdeen, I<br />

specialised in Human Geography.<br />

And of course where there<br />

are people and inequalities to<br />

study, understand and solve,<br />

it doesn’t take long before you<br />

need to consider the power<br />

struggles involved in the mix.<br />

That’s perhaps why I started my<br />

working life in politics, as a way<br />

to try and change things for the<br />

better.<br />

Seven years ago I moved to<br />

work for Oxfam Scotland, first<br />

as a Media Officer and now as<br />

Campaigns & Communications<br />

Manager, leading a team<br />

campaigning to do all we can to<br />

address some of the structural<br />

reasons that cause poverty in<br />

the first place, such as climate<br />

change, broken promises on<br />

aid, and a lack of access to basic<br />

health and education services.<br />

We also respond to disasters<br />

and emergencies such as the<br />

recent Haiti earthquake, to<br />

publicise what is happening and<br />

to raise vital funds which help<br />

our colleagues and partners incountry<br />

respond with life-saving<br />

and life-changing aid.<br />

To really tackle the issues that<br />

keep people in poverty, we need<br />

to maintain and increase pressure<br />

on those who are in power, to<br />

ensure that their policies and<br />

actions help reduce and end<br />

poverty, not increase it. To join<br />

our campaigning on these vital<br />

issues, please get in touch via<br />

our website www.oxfam.org.<br />

uk/scotland. It doesn’t need to<br />

take much of your time, but<br />

people power can make all the<br />

difference!


Off The Beaten Track<br />

Chasing the Devil<br />

Tim Butcher<br />

The<br />

<strong>Geographer</strong><br />

20-21<br />

Autumn 2010<br />

In 1906 the members and<br />

fellows of the <strong>Royal</strong> <strong>Geographical</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong> in London heard a<br />

presentation by Sir Harry<br />

Johnston, a redoubtable explorer<br />

and geographer with many<br />

years of experience in Africa. In<br />

his speech he addressed what<br />

was still not known about the<br />

continent, focussing his attention,<br />

perhaps surprisingly, on Liberia,<br />

the small nation on the West<br />

African bulge that had been<br />

founded in the mid 19th century<br />

by descendants of former slaves<br />

from America.<br />

He described it as “still the least<br />

known part of Africa”.<br />

Scroll forward in time to the 21st<br />

century and one could be forgiven<br />

for holding the same view.<br />

Years of brutal conflict<br />

destroyed links between<br />

Liberia and the outside<br />

world and although the<br />

country is today at peace,<br />

its reputation for violence<br />

and political chaos make<br />

it a rare target for outside<br />

travellers.<br />

In part, it was that sense of<br />

remoteness that drew me<br />

there last year. But I also<br />

had some acute personal<br />

issues outstanding from the latter<br />

stages of the Liberian war which<br />

I covered as the Daily Telegraph’s<br />

Africa Correspondent.<br />

Back in 2003 when rebels<br />

were attacking the capital city,<br />

Monrovia, and the regime of the<br />

warlord-president Charles Taylor<br />

was in its endgame, I had flown<br />

to Liberia for my first visit. It<br />

was dangerous on many levels,<br />

none more so than having to deal<br />

with Taylor’s unpredictable and<br />

ruthless regime.<br />

My reports brought me to<br />

its attention and earned me<br />

something I never encountered<br />

in 19 years as a war reporter – a<br />

death threat.<br />

It meant that after I left it was<br />

not prudent for me to return,<br />

something that niggled me as<br />

a journalist and gave me an<br />

unsettling feeling of having failed.<br />

It was in part to deal with that<br />

sense of failure that I went back<br />

on a long overland journey in the<br />

spring of 2009, a trip conceived<br />

deliberately to try to better<br />

decode the country, its people<br />

and its future.<br />

To help my understanding I<br />

used the writings of Graham<br />

Greene. As a young writer of 30,<br />

struggling to survive as a novelist,<br />

he had journeyed through Sierra<br />

Leone and Liberia in 1935 and<br />

wrote a book about it, Journey<br />

Without Maps. If I could follow<br />

his same route, his observations<br />

would give me fixed reference<br />

points from which to chart the<br />

development and changes of<br />

Liberia’s recent history.<br />

It was a methodology I first used<br />

in the Congo, another of Africa’s<br />

more turbulent regions, back in<br />

2004 when I followed the route<br />

of Henry Morton Stanley’s first<br />

journey of discovery through<br />

the Congo River basin in the<br />

1870s, comparing what he<br />

saw in the late 19th century<br />

with the situation in the early<br />

21st century. It was a journey I<br />

described in my first book,<br />

Blood River – A Journey To Africa’s<br />

Broken Heart.<br />

Greene was accompanied by<br />

his cousin, Barbara Greene,<br />

on a journey that began in<br />

Freetown, capital of the then<br />

British colony of Sierra Leone in<br />

the dry season of 1935. A train<br />

took them almost all the way to<br />

the country’s eastern frontier<br />

with Liberia where they hired 24<br />

bearers and set off along a jungle<br />

trail that would stretch 350 miles<br />

all the way to the Atlantic.<br />

Theirs was very much a journey<br />

of its time, with runners carrying<br />

messages in cleft sticks to<br />

villages further down the trail, the<br />

two white outsiders sitting down<br />

to three-course lunches in the<br />

middle of the jungle with bread<br />

baked freshly each morning.<br />

Graham Greene wore a sunhelmet<br />

and they took hammocks<br />

in which they could be carried<br />

by their porters, although he<br />

appeared only to use his when he<br />

got ill. The whole trip was much<br />

lubricated by whisky drunk with<br />

lime juice squeezed from fruit<br />

found along the way.<br />

After a year of planning, I made<br />

my way to Freetown and set off<br />

for the same eastern frontier<br />

crossed by the Greenes. The<br />

train was long gone – sold for<br />

scrap back in the 1970s – but,<br />

with luck, I was able<br />

to find the exact same<br />

remote border crossing,<br />

and from there follow<br />

jungle trails to the same<br />

villages touched on by the<br />

Greenes. I even met, on<br />

two occasions, villagers<br />

with clear recollections<br />

of the Greenes passing<br />

through.<br />

It took a month of<br />

walking but after 350<br />

miles, blistered, filthy and<br />

exhausted, I reached the coast.<br />

The challenge of the terrain<br />

and climate, the risks from<br />

lawlessness, the poverty of<br />

today’s Liberia and the fact that<br />

the near neighbour, Guinea, had<br />

a coup just weeks before I set<br />

off, all made a remarkable trip,<br />

one that I will be describing at a<br />

number of talks being hosted by<br />

the <strong>Royal</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Geographical</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>.<br />

For those who cannot make the<br />

talks, I have written a book on the<br />

adventure called Chasing<br />

the Devil – The Search<br />

for Africa’s<br />

Fighting<br />

Spirit.<br />

Reader Offer<br />

Readers can buy<br />

Tim Butcher’s<br />

Chasing the Devil<br />

(RRP £18.99) for<br />

the special price<br />

of £12.99, with<br />

free UK p&p.<br />

To order, please<br />

call 01206<br />

255800 and quote<br />

the reference<br />

‘RSGS’.<br />

Tim is speaking to<br />

RSGS audiences in<br />

Aberdeen, Dundee,<br />

Dunfermline,<br />

Edinburgh and<br />

Glasgow, in early<br />

October.


Book Club<br />

High Light<br />

Colin Prior<br />

HIGH LIGHT<br />

A V I S I O N O F W I L D S C O T L A N D<br />

C O L I N P R I O R<br />

A leading landscape<br />

photographer, Colin<br />

captures in this book<br />

the transient nature<br />

of the Highlands &<br />

Islands landscape.<br />

As well as his<br />

trademark mountain<br />

top panoramas, he<br />

explores the detail of nature, with close up shots that<br />

reveal order amongst chaos.<br />

Colin’s love of mountaineering and photography go<br />

hand in hand. His photographic talent is his means of<br />

expressing a great passion for the natural world. “High<br />

Light is a distillation of my passion for the landscape of<br />

Scotland, an attempt to understand my place within it,”<br />

he says. “Many of the mountain images in this portfolio<br />

are the result of wild camping. Pitching a lightweight,<br />

one-man tent on mountain summits allows me to shoot<br />

in remote locations at dusk and dawn and to create<br />

images not possible by any other means.<br />

“When I finally arrive at the summit, there’s a<br />

tremendous feeling of excitement – a combination of<br />

anticipation and trepidation. If the weather develops<br />

the way you anticipate, anything is possible. Connecting<br />

with the landscape is crucial, and I have found that<br />

spending a night in its midst is one of the best ways to<br />

appreciate its rhythm and nuances.”<br />

HIGH LIGHT<br />

A V I S I O N O F W I L D S C O T L A N D<br />

Wild Animals Anita Ganeri, illustrated by Mike Phillips<br />

Want to know:<br />

• how to cope with a<br />

killer croc?<br />

• why you shouldn’t<br />

turn your back on a<br />

tiger?<br />

• what to do if a shark<br />

bumps into you?<br />

With wild animal facts, life-saving tips, and heart-stopping survival<br />

stories, this pocket-sized colour book is a fantastic addition to the<br />

Horrible Geography range.<br />

“Wild Animals is great, it’s full of facts and funny stories –<br />

I have learnt loads from the Horrible Geography books<br />

and would recommend them to anyone.” said Jamie, aged 9.<br />

The Faded Map<br />

Lost Kingdoms of Scotland<br />

Alistair Moffat<br />

The Faded Map<br />

remembers a<br />

land that was<br />

once quiet and<br />

green. It brings<br />

to vivid life the<br />

half-forgotten<br />

kings and<br />

kingdoms of<br />

two thousand years ago, of the<br />

time of the Romans, the Dark<br />

Ages and the early medieval<br />

period. In this fascinating<br />

account, Alistair describes<br />

the landscape through which<br />

the men and women of these<br />

times moved, and talks of a<br />

Celtic society which spoke in<br />

Old Welsh, where the Sons<br />

of Prophesy ruled, and the<br />

time when the English kings<br />

of Bernicia held sway over<br />

vast swathes of what is now<br />

Scotland.<br />

Alistair is speaking to RSGS<br />

audiences in Ayr and<br />

Helensburgh in late September,<br />

and in Dunfermline and Glasgow<br />

in early November.<br />

Reporting Live From<br />

the End of the World<br />

David Shukman<br />

When frontline BBC reporter<br />

David Shukman switched beat<br />

from world affairs to environment,<br />

he feared<br />

he might be<br />

in for a dull<br />

life. He could<br />

not have<br />

been more<br />

wrong. His<br />

new job has<br />

seen him<br />

journeying<br />

through<br />

the fabled North West Passage,<br />

chasing after loggers in the<br />

Amazon, battling through plastic<br />

waste in the Pacific Ocean,<br />

and getting trapped in Siberian<br />

blizzards along the way. Vivid,<br />

engaging and often very funny,<br />

Reporting Live From the End of the<br />

World charts David’s extraordinary<br />

broadcasting adventures, and<br />

provides a fascinating eyewitness<br />

account of the state of the planet.<br />

David is speaking to an RSGS<br />

audience in Dumfries in February.<br />

Reader Offer - save 25% Offer ends 31st December 2010.<br />

Readers of The <strong>Geographer</strong> can purchase High Light for £22.50 (RRP £30),<br />

including FREE p&p in the UK.<br />

Order now by using the special offer code ‘Highlight2’ when ordering<br />

by email to cashsales@tbs-ltd.co.uk or by phone on 01206 255800.<br />

C O L I N P R I O R<br />

You can help us to make connections between people, places & the planet by joining the RSGS.<br />

Please contact us at Lord John Murray House, 15-19 North Port, Perth, PH1 5LU, or visit www.rsgs.org<br />

Printed by www.jtcp.co.uk on 9Lives Offset 120gsm paper. 100% FSC certified recycled fibre using vegetable based inks in a 100% chemistry free process.

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