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Condensation Leaflet - Saffron Housing

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What is <strong>Condensation</strong>?<br />

<strong>Condensation</strong> in the Home<br />

There is always moisture in the air, even if it cannot be seen. As the<br />

temperature of the air drops, it cannot hold all of the moistures it contains and<br />

this appears on surfaces as droplets of water- which are condensation. This is<br />

also visible when you see your breath on a cold day or when mirrors mist over<br />

when you have a bath or shower.<br />

<strong>Condensation</strong> in the home is something of a modern problem. Back when<br />

most of the housing stock was built, properties were very draughty with single<br />

glazed windows. The structures were very poor at keeping in heat and people<br />

did not produce lots of water vapour from day to day activities such as<br />

tumble driers and showers.<br />

As times have changed we have slowly cut out the draughts from the<br />

properties by fitting better windows, doors and blocking off open chimneys.<br />

During this same period levels of insulation have also increased, as well as<br />

production of water vapour in our homes. This had led to localised areas of<br />

cool areas around the edges of most properties, such as around the top of<br />

windows and doors where the structural lintels are. When there are high levels<br />

of water vapour in the air (65 % plus) and cool areas around the property<br />

(also referred to as ‘cold spots’) condensation can start to form.<br />

This is a natural process that is influenced by the levels of moisture in the air<br />

and the temperature of all the internal surfaces.<br />

There are four areas that, in conjunction, can lead to condensation forming<br />

• Moisture produced by everyday activities.<br />

• Not enough ventilation.<br />

• Underused heating systems.<br />

• Naturally occurring ‘cold spots’.<br />

Cooking, drying clothes, showering – even breathing – will add to the<br />

moisture in the air. If this moisture is allowed to build up it can cause<br />

condensation. This can increase the risk of respiratory problems and can<br />

possibly cause black mould growth on walls, ceilings, furniture and clothing.<br />

Some people do not realise that this mould growth is often caused by<br />

condensation generated by normal household activities, mistakenly thinking<br />

these are signs of damp caused by problems with the property itself. This<br />

leaflet gives helpful advice on how to treat condensation in the home.


If you live in a newly built house and have condensation or damp it maybe<br />

from the water used in its construction drying out-especially if the property<br />

was built during the winter months.<br />

How much airborne moisture can be produced in an average home in a<br />

day?<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Two people active for one day = 1.5 Litres<br />

Cooking and boiling a kettle = 3 Litres<br />

Having a bath or shower = 1 Litres<br />

Washing clothes = 0.5 Litres<br />

Drying clothes indoors= 4.5 Litres<br />

Using a paraffin or bottled gas heater = 1.5 Litres<br />

Looking at the figures above, it is possible that the amount of airborne<br />

moisture that can be produced in your home in one day could easily be<br />

around 12 Litres.<br />

There are many ways to tackle the problem:<br />

• Ventilate, or air, the home (do not over ventilate-having all of your<br />

windows wide open when it is cold outside will not help the problem and may<br />

make it worse)<br />

• Keep your home warm.<br />

• Wipe down surfaces where moisture settles.<br />

• Cover boiling pans when cooking.<br />

• When cooking, bathing or washing and drying clothes; close the kitchen<br />

and bathroom doors to prevent moist air entering colder rooms. Do not over<br />

ventilate these rooms-once the moisture has gone from the air close the<br />

windows and allow the rooms to warm up.<br />

• When cooking or washing, open windows or use extractor fans if fitted.<br />

• Cover fish tanks to stop the water evaporating into the air.<br />

• Dry clothes outside where possible.<br />

• Make sure tumble dryers are vented to the outside.<br />

• Do not use bottled gas or paraffin heaters as these produce a lot of<br />

moisture and can also be a health and safety risk if not used and stored<br />

appropriately. This is also in your tenancy agreement.<br />

• Where drying clothes inside is necessary, do so in a small room with windows<br />

open.<br />

• Open windows for a short while each day or use the trickle/night vents.


• Do not block air vents – this is also important where there are open flued<br />

gas and heating appliances present, as they need a constant supply of<br />

oxygen to work effectively and allow gases, such as carbon monoxide, to<br />

escape.<br />

• Allow air to circulate around furniture and in cupboards – you can do his by<br />

making sure cupboards and wardrobes aren’t overfilled and there is space<br />

between the furniture and the wall. Breather holes could also be cut into the<br />

back of wardrobes, for example, if clothes are attracting mould spores.<br />

Keep your home warm:<br />

• When the whole house is warmer, condensation is less likely to form.<br />

• Insulating your loft and walls will help. If yours are not insulated, contact us<br />

on 01508 532000 for details of works planned for your area or advice on<br />

energy efficiency.<br />

• Maintain a low, constant, level of heating when the weather is cold or wet –<br />

this is more effective than short bursts of high heat.<br />

Important things to remember:<br />

• Do not block permanent ventilators.<br />

• Do not put furniture against cold external walls.


What to do if your home is already suffering mould:<br />

The tips set out above should help prevent mould, but what if you already<br />

have the problem?<br />

How do you get rid of it?<br />

• Do not disturb mould by brushing or vacuum cleaning.<br />

This can increase the risk of respiratory problems by releasing spores.<br />

• Mould is a living organism and needs killing to get rid of it. To do this, wipe<br />

down affected areas with a fungicidal wash – one which carries a Health and<br />

Safety Executive approved number – making sure you follow the<br />

manufacturer’s instructions.<br />

Fungicidal Wash<br />

Do not use Bleach or Washing up liquid!<br />

This may temporarily have an effect, but may end up<br />

promoting mould growth in the future.<br />

• Treat any mould you may already have in your home,<br />

and then follow the advice in this leaflet to reduce<br />

condensation. This will restrict new mould growth.<br />

• Mildewed clothes should always be dry cleaned and<br />

any affected carpets shampooed.<br />

• After treatment, redecorate using a good quality antifungicidal<br />

paint to help prevent mould recurring. Please note that antifungicidal<br />

paint loses its effectiveness if overlaid with ordinary paints or<br />

wallpapers.


• Even after treatment, depending on the humidity in the dwelling, it may not<br />

be possible to eliminate all mould patches in some of the more troublesome<br />

spots.<br />

The corners on external walls, for example, are more susceptible to mould<br />

growth when high levels of airborne moisture are present. This is because<br />

these areas lose energy much quicker than the straight sections of wall. This<br />

makes the surface of the corners cooler, allowing condensation to form.<br />

Another problem area is the surface of glazing & window frames (even<br />

double glazing). As the frame and the surface of the glass can be cooler<br />

than the surrounding elements, it can have the same effect as with a cold<br />

glass of beer on a summer’s day-condensation forming on it surface.<br />

I have followed the advice in this leaflet, what do I do next?<br />

If you have followed the advice given in this leaflet, then you should begin to<br />

notice a considerable improvement within a few weeks (possibly longer<br />

during a cold winter). If the problem persists, it may possibly be due to<br />

another cause of damp. There are four main causes of damp;<br />

• <strong>Condensation</strong> – as discussed in this leaflet<br />

• Rising damp – this is usually very rare as a damp proof course prevents this,<br />

but it can usually be seen by a tide mark above the skirting board.<br />

• Penetrating damp – Usually caused by damage or a problem with the<br />

fabric of the building which means rainwater is able to find its way through<br />

the walls, roof, windows or doors etc.<br />

• Plumbing faults or broken leaking pipes<br />

Rising damp and penetrating damp can be difficult to identify at the early<br />

stages. A leaking pipe can be more difficult to identify, and if you suspect you<br />

may have a leaking pipe then this should be reported to the Repairs team on<br />

01508 532060 as soon as possible.<br />

If you have not seen obvious improvement after following our advice, or you<br />

suspect a more serious cause of damp, please contact us on 01508 532000<br />

and a damp inspection will be organised.

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