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C O S M E T I C S MODEL MAKE-UP Help your customers recreate the hottest looks from the autumn/winter catwalks. ANJANA GOSAI shows you how… Make-up by Pat McGrath, global creative design director for Max Factor. Pictures taken by Jason Lloyd Evans THE TREND: Flawless skin AS SEEN AT: Preen, Balmain and Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton HOW TO GET THE LOOK: Make-up artists made use of foundation, concealer and powder to get their models’ complexions looking pristine on the catwalks. The key to achieving immaculate skin is all in the prepping. Make-up blends more easily if the skin is moist, so tell customers to start by massaging in a moisturiser. They should then pat on a blob of primer such as L’Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Professional Smoothing Resurfacing Primer to even out skin texture. For the most natural finish, recommend a base with a liquid formula, like the new No7 Instant Radiance Foundation, which contains soft violet pearls to add luminosity and mask imperfections. Alternatively, new Lancôme Teint Miracle is made with a cutting-edge technology that uses polarised light to give skin a glowing and light-infused finish, while new EcoCert certified Une Skin Glow Foundation will add a boost of radiance. For professional results, the experts recommend blending in small dots of base with a sponge or brush – The Body Shop Foundation Brush is a great mass market option. Concealer should only be dabbed on where necessary, like under the eyes or to blot out blemishes. To set the look and to ensure it stays put, tell customers to tap skin with a powder such as Elizabeth Arden Flawless Finish Pressed Powder under the eyes, on the forehead and around the nose and chin. Trick OF THE TRADE Make-up artist James Kaliardos, who is L’Oréal Paris’s go-to-guy for all make-up matters, says we shouldn’t underestimate the power of a primer. “It’s great for smoothing out the complexion, especially on the shadowy and rougher areas of the face like the lower contour of the eye, forehead, sides of the nostrils and around the mouth.” 26 b e a u t y m a g a z i n e s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0
THE TREND: The dark lip AS SEEN AT: Dior, Givenchy and Proenza Schouler Aquascutum Anna Sui HOW TO GET THE LOOK: Dark and decadent lips were spotted across every fashion capital this season. Make-up artists say that a perfectly painted pout is the easiest way to make an on-trend statement. Whether it’s blood red, chocolate brown or grungy plum – anything goes, as long as it’s dark. At the Vivienne Tam show, models’ lips were filled in with Maybelline Color Sensational Lipstick in Fatal Red before being layered with Maybelline Color Sensational Gloss in Red Love over the top. While in Milan, Dolce & Gabbana opted for juicy scarlet lips, identical to L’Oréal Paris Color Riche Boosting Serum Lipstick in True Red (502). Grungy shades of deep brown and port were also common. At the Antonio Berardi show make-up artist Gucci Westman created an intense lip using the Revlon ColorBurst Lipstick in Plum, while at Hussein Chalayan, she painted models’ pouts in new Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Mink. THE TREND: Flushed cheeks AS SEEN AT: Michael Kors and Aquascutum Trick OF THE TRADE “Swirl your fingertip over a creamy blusher then dot the colour onto the HOW TO GET THE fullest part of the cheeks and blend in. LOOK: The rosy cheek The richest concentration of colour is simple to pull off and should be in the centre, so circle works well with all skin outwards when applying,” tones. “The cheeks were advises Pat McGrath. delicately flushed with a cool pink blush for that windswept look,” says make-up artist Pat McGrath, global creative director for Max Factor. “It’s an ‘in-from-the-cold’ look,” she adds, referencing the winter season. Advise your customer to chose a cream-based formula like Max Factor Miracle Touch Creamy Blush in Soft Pink or Soft Candy, which blends in easily and delivers a natural-looking glow. Those unsure of colour choice should pick Smashbox O-Glow Intuitive Cheek Color – a clear gel that turns cheeks the shade they would naturally blush. Or if your customer prefers powder textures, tell them to brush on Une Breezy Cheeks Blush in 02, which is universally flattering. Trick OF THE TRADE “Create a good base by taking your foundation over your lids so the shadow can grip to it for staying power,” says Cassie Lomas, make-up artist to the stars. THE TREND: New smoky eye C O S M E T I C S Trick OF THE TRADE “Try lining the lips after applying lipstick as it’ll be easier to find the natural lip shape this way,” says Fiona Jolly. When it comes to application, this look couldn’t be any simpler to achieve. “This lip look is not about perfection, just depth of colour, so the darker you dare to go, the more impact it will have,” explains celebrity make-up artist Fiona Jolly. Tell customers to apply the lipstick straight from the bullet, or for a more stained and sensual finish, dab it on with fingers. AS SEEN AT: Roberto Cavalli, Anna Sui and Diane von Furstenberg HOW TO GET THE LOOK: The smoky eye was still on show this season, with shades of beige, taupe, mushroom, grey and brown replacing the deep black and navy colours usually seen at this time of year. Recommend a palette that contains a choice of shades. The new Bourjois Smoky Eyes Trio in Lady Vert de Gris contains three complementary hues including a white-gold illuminator, plus grey and brown eyeshadows. Shadow should be applied over the entire lid and slightly above the socket bone, then the palest colour used to highlight the brow bone and the inner corners of the eyes. Customers who don’t feel confident with eyeshadow application can still look bang on trend by investing in a liquid liner. The models at Issa and Céline had their upper lash line etched with a feline flick. To recreate the look, suggest shoppers apply 17 Liquid Eye Liner as close as possible to the upper lash line. For dramatic results, the inner rims can be defined with Barry M Kohl Pencil in Black. To complete the eyes, recommend Rimmel Lash Accelerator Mascara, which comes enriched with ingredients that promise to make lashes look longer and lusher after just one week and up to two times longer after a month. Nina Ricci Main image: Givenchy b e a u t y m a g a z i n e s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0 27
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