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Sri Lanka Textiles 2003 - Global Business Reports

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specialreport<br />

srilanka<br />

SRI LANKA<br />

A Prospect of Peace<br />

A Special Report by Arnaud Burtin and Özgür Ergüney<br />

Ateardrop ‘<br />

from India –<br />

that’s the way Rudyard<br />

Kipling described <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong>, or Ceylon as it<br />

was called in his time.<br />

This lush island won its independence<br />

from Britain in 1948 and, at the time,<br />

the newly created country of 20<br />

million inhabitants was described by<br />

the World Bank as having one of the<br />

most promising futures of all the<br />

countries of Asia.<br />

Unfortunately, although still<br />

remarkably beautiful and unspoilt,<br />

the country still remains among the<br />

poorest in the world. One of the<br />

factors underlying this inability to<br />

realise its potential has been the<br />

prolonged civil war between the<br />

government and the separatist Tamil<br />

Tigers, a conflict that has blighted<br />

the country for more than 20 years.<br />

These 20 years have not been kind<br />

to the country and, rather than<br />

marvel at the beaches, ancient<br />

temples and palaces that are features<br />

of the island, the world watched in<br />

horror at all the carnage and death.<br />

However, life has gone on and the<br />

garment sector has coped – some<br />

would say thrived – through such<br />

oppressive times, with annual<br />

growth rates of over 16% per annum<br />

for the past two decades. The<br />

industry has become the real engine<br />

of <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>’s economy, providing<br />

more than 300,000 jobs (30% of<br />

manufacturing employment) and<br />

almost half its foreign earnings. This,<br />

despite the fact that the country has<br />

had to continuously divert funds and<br />

resources to support the conflict,<br />

instead of improving infrastructure,<br />

education, health and other areas so<br />

necessary to support an emerging<br />

economy.<br />

The conflict aside, the macroeconomics<br />

of the island are pretty<br />

robust, with average annual growth<br />

rates of approximately 5.3% over the<br />

last five years, an unemployment rate<br />

24<br />

fashionbusinessinternational


specialreportsrilanka<br />

of less than 9% and steady inflation<br />

rates. The welfare policies of most of<br />

the post-independence governments<br />

have given <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> a very high<br />

literacy rate (95% for males and 90%<br />

for females), comparable to the most<br />

developed Western countries, and a<br />

health record enviable in the minds<br />

of other third-world countries. With<br />

English commonly spoken and an<br />

impressive passion for cricket, <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong> has very strong links with UK –<br />

links that are exemplified by the fact<br />

that its apparel exports to the EU are<br />

almost completely focused on the<br />

UK.<br />

Before independence, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>’s<br />

economy was centred on plantation<br />

crops (tea and rubber products).<br />

While agriculture remains important,<br />

the economy has since become<br />

considerably more diversified. The<br />

garment industry really started in the<br />

mid-‘70s, as the economy was<br />

liberalised and oriented towards<br />

export-led industries, growing thanks<br />

to the quota system and a very<br />

cheap labour force. Quotas allowed<br />

garment producers to stay focused<br />

on improving manufacturing skills,<br />

and also on strengthening their<br />

relationships with buyers.<br />

The industry started by manufacturing<br />

garments for the basic<br />

markets, such as discount stores,<br />

although now it is progressively<br />

going up-market, working for<br />

department stores and brands that<br />

are among the biggest players in the<br />

industry. Household names such as<br />

JC Penney in the USA, and Marks &<br />

Spencer in UK, are regular buyers<br />

from the island.<br />

But <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has rapidly evolved<br />

from a simple contract manufacturing<br />

base and has attracted some<br />

of the major manufacturing players<br />

to set up operations there.<br />

Subsidiaries of global players such as<br />

Esquel and Fountain Set have<br />

established local subsidiaries, Polytex<br />

april-may <strong>2003</strong><br />

25


specialreportsrilanka<br />

and Ocean <strong>Lanka</strong>, respectively. There<br />

has also been the establishment of a<br />

number of joint ventures with local<br />

operators such as Courtaulds <strong>Lanka</strong><br />

or MAS Holding.<br />

Like many industries, the garment<br />

sector in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has evolved to<br />

become increasingly consolidated. In<br />

2001, 12% of local exporters<br />

generated 72% of the country’s<br />

export revenue in the garment sector.<br />

Having established themselves as the<br />

leading companies, with established<br />

production facilities and strong<br />

customer ties, these companies are<br />

now concentrating on moving<br />

upmarket. This has entailed<br />

developing more of the value-added<br />

services that high-end buyers expect<br />

from their suppliers. From the initial<br />

fabric design, through to the final<br />

delivery, these firms are becoming<br />

increasingly competent in providing<br />

the complete solution to their clients.<br />

The issues faced by the industry<br />

today are many and varied – issues<br />

that will ultimately have an adverse<br />

effect on growth. The lack of a local<br />

fabric-production base means that<br />

most producers can only provide a<br />

90-day lead time, as opposed to the<br />

60-day standard that many other<br />

Asian countries are able to work to.<br />

Other factors include low levels of<br />

productivity and, of course, the<br />

internal conflict that has scared many<br />

buyers who may have otherwise<br />

been tempted.<br />

Despite these handicaps, the<br />

growth of the sector has been<br />

constantly good to the extent that, if<br />

the country manages to solve these<br />

issues, its advantages will become<br />

even more compelling. Given the<br />

high literacy rate, developed social<br />

compliance regulations and low<br />

labour rates, the country has many<br />

attractions.<br />

After numerous attempts at peace,<br />

the current ceasefire and subsequent<br />

negotiations in Thailand have given<br />

the whole country the feeling that<br />

the end of the conflict is finally in<br />

sight. The garment sector is naturally<br />

anxious for current talks to continue<br />

and ultimately succeed in bringing<br />

lasting peace, which would in turn<br />

bring improvements in infrastructure,<br />

business climate, investment<br />

potential and, of course, living<br />

standards.<br />

Like many other countries, <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong> is under pressure to put in<br />

place an attractive economic<br />

environment and an up-to-date<br />

industry before the complete liberalisation<br />

of the world apparel market in<br />

less than two years. Locally, many<br />

view 2005 as the death knell for<br />

small to medium-size enterprises,<br />

which only exist today through the<br />

protection that current quotas bring.<br />

The government and key-players are<br />

aware of the threat and have already<br />

decided to launch a common<br />

strategy for the next five years, to<br />

equip the industry and the whole<br />

society for the challenges of 2005.<br />

With the peace process bringing<br />

prosperity and stability to <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>,<br />

the country has one less major<br />

headache to worry about.<br />

Many, among the 25 top exporters,<br />

have already provided, or are on<br />

their way to providing, integrated<br />

services with a good level of<br />

compliance with production and<br />

social standards. At the same time,<br />

they have to maintain competitive<br />

prices and market their abilities to<br />

their customer base. They also want<br />

to have a more balanced market<br />

between the US and the European<br />

Union, and – by improving efficiency<br />

and the services expected by the<br />

more discerning buyers at the top<br />

end of the market – to continue<br />

moving up the value scale.<br />

The island of Ceylon has a long<br />

tradition of trading between Asia<br />

and Europe. Today’s <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> wants<br />

again to become a regional hub on<br />

the back of its thriving garment<br />

industry. Much of the groundwork<br />

has already been done, as the<br />

country is already established among<br />

some of the biggest buyers in the<br />

industry, despite its obvious<br />

handicaps. Now the country has<br />

identified the ways in which it must<br />

concentrate its resources, and how it<br />

must apply itself to meet the new<br />

challenges it will face in 2005. There<br />

is still every chance that <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> can<br />

become the shining Asian star that<br />

the World Bank once predicted – it<br />

may just be a matter of time. FBI<br />

26<br />

fashionbusinessinternational


Peace Process<br />

Ushers in<br />

New Era<br />

The garment market is<br />

arguably the most globalised<br />

in the world and, because of<br />

political uncertainty, countryrisk<br />

rating has become a key element<br />

for major buyers and potential<br />

investors.<br />

Unfortunately, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has fallen<br />

into the higher-risk category for<br />

some time, due to the merciless civil<br />

war that has plagued the country for<br />

over two decades. The separatist<br />

group, LTTE, more commonly known<br />

as The Tamil Tigers, was fighting<br />

Colombo’s central power with the<br />

explicit aim of creating an<br />

independent state in the northern<br />

and north-eastern area of the island.<br />

For years, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has been<br />

headlining the world news with the<br />

latest Tamil Tiger terrorist attack,<br />

such as the daring raid on Colombo’s<br />

international airport in July 2001,<br />

which destroyed nearly half the<br />

national airline’s fleet.<br />

The conflict has its roots in<br />

colonial-era migration. The Tamil<br />

Tigers portray themselves as<br />

representatives of the local Tamil<br />

population. The Tamils were brought<br />

to <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> from southern India by<br />

the British, to pick the tea leaves, a<br />

career option that did not attract the<br />

indigenous Sinhalese. With<br />

independence, the by then<br />

substantial Tamil population became<br />

increasingly marginalised, as the<br />

Sinhalese shut them out of<br />

government and out of many aspects<br />

of everyday life.<br />

The situation came to the boil<br />

during the 1980s, when more<br />

militant elements in the Tamil<br />

population took matters into their<br />

own hands and began demanding a<br />

separate state within the island – a<br />

demand that ultimately led to the<br />

tragic armed conflict.<br />

“For <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>, the biggest<br />

problem is that very few people<br />

know about us… The main issue<br />

is to bring people here.”<br />

At the beginning of 2002, with a<br />

new government elected, talks with<br />

the LTTE were launched, achieving a<br />

ceasefire agreement that has proven<br />

to be more stable than previous<br />

attempts. As Professor G.L. Pieris,<br />

Minister of Enterprise, Development<br />

and Constitutional Affairs – in charge<br />

of the Peace process – summed up:<br />

“What is important is the conviction<br />

that the peace process itself is the<br />

only way. There is no other way. Both<br />

parties have established a rapport,<br />

they started the discussions and it is<br />

moving forward.”<br />

The latest peace initiative has<br />

certainly been a major boost for all<br />

april-may <strong>2003</strong> 27


sectors of the country’s society. As Guhan Nanayakkara,<br />

managing director of Forbes, explains: “It is a major<br />

change in our daily lives and also in the way we do<br />

business. During the civil war, buyers were reluctant to<br />

come and visit us so we had to meet them in Hong Kong<br />

or Singapore.”<br />

Shirenda Lawrence, managing director of Courtaulds<br />

<strong>Lanka</strong>, a subsidiary of Courtaulds-Sara Lee, says: “Now the<br />

buyers are keen to come and visit us, marking a real<br />

improvement and a great opportunity for us.” All the key<br />

players are persuaded<br />

that, if the buyers “Those who come do not<br />

come, they will be<br />

leave disappointed!”<br />

convinced. As Ashroff<br />

Omar, chairman of MAST <strong>Lanka</strong>, the island’s second<br />

largest garment exporter, states: “Those who come do not<br />

leave disappointed!”<br />

Bringing more buyers is obviously the main expectation<br />

from the industry, but for a lot of people it is far more<br />

than that. Lyn Fernando, chairman of Creations and<br />

former chairman of the <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> Apparel Exporter<br />

Association, explained what can be expected: “The<br />

massive amounts of money that our government spent on<br />

the war effort will now be used to make the country<br />

more competitive and more attractive through improving<br />

the roads, railways, ports and other infrastructure crucial<br />

for local business.” This should have a considerable effect,<br />

bearing in mind that the government is reckoned to have<br />

spent approximately $750 million a year on the conflict.<br />

Both the government and the industry want to take the<br />

opportunity of peace in order to go further, by trying to<br />

get Free Trade Agreements (FTA) with the US and the<br />

European Union. Everyone agrees that FTAs and improved<br />

infrastructure would bring much more competitiveness to<br />

the industry, but to succeed, the existence of peace has to<br />

be known abroad.<br />

And that is certainly one of the main disadvantages of<br />

the country, as Omar admitted: “For <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>, the biggest<br />

problem is that very few people know about us… The<br />

main issue is to bring people here.”<br />

However, having met the challenge of peace, the task of<br />

attracting the buyer’s dollar and investor’s pound should<br />

be a little easier now.<br />

FBI<br />

28<br />

fashionbusinessinternational


specialreportsrilanka<br />

Planning<br />

for the<br />

New Order<br />

Many, rightly or wrongly,<br />

anticipate the approach<br />

of 2005 with fear and<br />

trepidation – something<br />

akin to judgement day. It seems,<br />

having interviewed textile executives<br />

across the globe, that only the<br />

Chinese could be excused for<br />

looking forward to this date!<br />

<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is no exception, as it<br />

fears the phasing-out of a quota<br />

system that has so helped it to build<br />

a thriving industry – an industry that<br />

has formed the backbone of the<br />

local economy. Different surveys<br />

point out that at least 40% of the<br />

850 major companies active in the<br />

sector will shrink with the<br />

dismantling of the Multi-Fibre<br />

Agreement.<br />

In response to this perceived<br />

threat to such an important earner<br />

(half of the island’s exports<br />

originate in the textile sector), the<br />

public and private sectors have<br />

joined together to identify<br />

the industry’s failings and to<br />

formulate solutions in<br />

response. Part of the<br />

“Regaining <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>”<br />

programme, designed to<br />

stimulate a lack-lustre<br />

economy after 20 years of<br />

civil war, the resulting fiveyear<br />

strategic plan is the<br />

industry’s bible for future<br />

growth and prosperity.<br />

Thanks to the quota<br />

system, the local garment<br />

industry grew at an amazing rate<br />

over the past two decades. Exports<br />

grew from $468 million in 1989 to<br />

$2.34 billion in 2001. The protective<br />

blanket of the system allowed<br />

companies time to invest in and<br />

develop their businesses, with the<br />

result that many leading Western<br />

brands have become regular buyers.<br />

For example, the island’s responsible<br />

social and environmental standards<br />

have attracted the likes of Nike and<br />

Marks & Spencer.<br />

But the industry as a whole knows<br />

that it would be almost impossible to<br />

compete in the volume markets with<br />

much lower-cost countries like China<br />

and Bangladesh in a post-2005<br />

environment. Mahesh Amalean,<br />

chairman of MAS Holdings, explains<br />

the general mood in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>:<br />

“Competing with them would take a<br />

lot of energy, and I would rather use<br />

our resources and energies to<br />

penetrate niche markets”.<br />

Lyn Fernando, chairman of<br />

Creations, goes further: “Competing<br />

with very cheap countries would<br />

mean giving up our level of social<br />

compliance. To avoid this dilemma,<br />

we have to go up-market.”<br />

The first issue that <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> must<br />

face, in order to achieve its up-market<br />

ambition, is what the “5-year strategic<br />

plan” calls backward integration. <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong> currently imports over 40% of<br />

the raw materials needed by the<br />

garment industry.<br />

“Yarn and fabric producers were<br />

april-may <strong>2003</strong><br />

29


specialreportsrilanka<br />

reluctant to settle here, because of<br />

the lack of local market,” explains<br />

Sam Speeza, managing director of<br />

Hayleys MGT, an Australian-based<br />

company. Fabrics and yarns are<br />

mainly imported from Hong Kong,<br />

China and India. The goal of the<br />

industry is to reduce the current<br />

lead-time from 90 days to the 60<br />

days increasingly demanded by<br />

buyers.<br />

There are two options to consider<br />

here. The first would be to establish<br />

local weaving mills, which would<br />

reduce lead times but would require<br />

massive amounts of capital and<br />

considerable development time. The<br />

few mills settled in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> –<br />

including Ocean <strong>Lanka</strong> (owned by<br />

MAST <strong>Lanka</strong>), Hideramani Group and<br />

Fountain Set – are nevertheless very<br />

dynamic and have good-quality<br />

products. They are all planning<br />

massive expansions.<br />

Man-Kue Pow, director of Ocean<br />

<strong>Lanka</strong>, said: “We already have three<br />

plants and we want to set up<br />

enough facilities to triple our<br />

production capacity.” By<br />

combining the power of the<br />

country’s second and third largest<br />

exporters with the global might of<br />

the world’s leading yarn<br />

manufacturer, the idea is<br />

to draw upon<br />

expertise from both<br />

up- and<br />

downstream of<br />

the production<br />

process.<br />

The <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong>n<br />

Board of<br />

Investment<br />

(BOI) reckons<br />

that for this<br />

plan to work<br />

effectively, the<br />

country needs a<br />

minimum of two<br />

woven fabric mills<br />

to supply local<br />

demand sufficiently.<br />

The BOI wants to<br />

attract companies<br />

that are currently<br />

seeking for relocate<br />

mills established in<br />

expensive Europe or Northern Asia<br />

(for example in South Korea).<br />

The second track is a more<br />

pragmatic and easily realisable.<br />

Ashroff Omar, chairman of MAST<br />

<strong>Lanka</strong>, told us: “We are trying to<br />

create closer links with countries like<br />

India and Pakistan, who have<br />

relatively quick delivery times.” With<br />

the signing of a free-trade agreement<br />

with India and Pakistan, local<br />

suppliers can now rely on tariff-free<br />

fabrics.<br />

Amalean sums up the need for<br />

backward integration: “We have to<br />

both strengthen <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>’s fabric<br />

base and also look how to better use<br />

regional fabric. Giving <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> a<br />

fabric base should not be given a<br />

second priority, because flexibility<br />

and speed are paramount in our<br />

business.” With local companies<br />

already buying $1.5 billion annually,<br />

international companies would do<br />

well to work take notice.<br />

One of the underlying<br />

assumptions of the<br />

strategic plan is that<br />

the local industry<br />

must move away<br />

from the lower-end<br />

market and look to<br />

engage more<br />

demanding higherend<br />

clients.<br />

Currently,<br />

around 40%<br />

of <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong>n<br />

production<br />

goes to<br />

discount stores<br />

and between<br />

50% and 60% to<br />

department<br />

stores, with only<br />

10% to speciality<br />

stores and the<br />

brands. The goal is<br />

to increase this<br />

final figure to at<br />

least 30% within the<br />

five years.<br />

Like many other<br />

garment manufacturers<br />

around the<br />

world, the local<br />

industry has also been<br />

encouraged to provide increasingly<br />

sophisticated services to its<br />

customers. MAST <strong>Lanka</strong>’s Omar, who<br />

is part of the ‘Regaining <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>’<br />

team, reckons that: “We are trying to<br />

educate the industry about following<br />

fabric fashions and trends. Providing<br />

a complete solution is what we have<br />

to emphasise.”<br />

Product development and sampling<br />

are common services among the top<br />

apparel producers. Not surprisingly,<br />

companies such as Hoodvian and M.<br />

Samson Silva already have their<br />

sights aimed higher, by employing<br />

their own design teams. Indika Silva,<br />

of M. Samson Silva, explains: “Our<br />

strategy is to provide costumers with<br />

a global solution.” Amalean, of MAS<br />

Holdings, underlines the strategy:<br />

“We have to provide a total service<br />

to the customer, which involves<br />

being active in the entire supply<br />

chain to ensure that we get the<br />

‘freshest’ products on to the<br />

shelves.”<br />

The phasing-out of quotas is an<br />

issue for any garment producing<br />

country, but <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is perfectly<br />

aware of the threat hovering over it.<br />

Instead of competition among<br />

companies, the garment sector<br />

appears united in facing the<br />

challenges to come, with strong<br />

support from the government.<br />

Important goals, such as achieving<br />

peace and solving the lack of<br />

backward linkages, are crucial if the<br />

industry is to maintain its ability to<br />

provide <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> with external<br />

earnings and massive employment.<br />

Coupled to these investments at<br />

home, the country must look to –<br />

and is currently in the process of –<br />

extending the number of Free Trade<br />

Agreements (FTA) with key<br />

destination markets, mainly in<br />

Europe.<br />

By providing the answers to all the<br />

questions that hang over its future,<br />

the industry aims to grow its current<br />

export figure to $4.5 billion by<br />

2007, which is ambitious but<br />

realistic, if <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> can inform the<br />

world about its specific qualities –<br />

advantages that no other country in<br />

the region has been able to<br />

develop…so far.<br />

FBI<br />

30 fashionbusinessinternational


Mainettech ad


specialreportsrilanka<br />

The Power of<br />

<strong>Global</strong> Thinking<br />

Although only 25 years old, the<br />

<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>n garment industry<br />

has spawned an impressive<br />

accessory industry. First among<br />

these is global player Mainetti, one of the<br />

largest garment-hanger suppliers in the<br />

world, with operations in 25 countries.<br />

The growth of Mainettech, the<br />

company’s local production facility,<br />

exemplifies how the presence of<br />

accessories suppliers is crucial for apparel<br />

manufacturers. But it is the backing of a<br />

global company that has allowed this<br />

demand to be converted into the largest<br />

range of products and services that the<br />

industry could possibly expect.<br />

Established 10 years ago, when the<br />

garment sector was still in its infancy,<br />

Mainettech is today the island’s leading<br />

supplier of hangers and, in turn, <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong> is now the company’s strategic<br />

hub for the Indian subcontinent.<br />

Mainetti’s success in developing a hub is<br />

a lesson that many in the local industry<br />

are looking to replicate.<br />

Jeyam Perumal, the company’s regional<br />

director, explains the philosophy of the<br />

group: “A Mainetti hanger produced in<br />

<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is absolutely identical to<br />

another Mainetti hanger produced<br />

elsewhere in the world.” With garment<br />

manufacturers expected to supply their<br />

garments quickly, flexibly and at a<br />

constant quality, so the hanger<br />

manufacturer is expected to work under<br />

similar criteria. “Our systems and<br />

facilities have evolved to ensure that we<br />

become an essential part of the supply<br />

chain. Most importantly, our success<br />

relies on the fact that we think globally,<br />

but act locally.”<br />

“Our success relies on the fact<br />

that we think globally,<br />

but act locally.”<br />

Apparel manufacturers expect a lot<br />

from a hanger supplier, which has to be<br />

flexible, to insure a constant quality of<br />

products and delivery. Perumal explains<br />

the company’s approach to fulfilling<br />

these requirements: “We have evolved<br />

systems and facilities to ensure that we<br />

become an essential part in the supply<br />

chain. It is a partnership approach that<br />

defines us.”<br />

With a catalogue of over 350 hanger<br />

models, it is important for the company<br />

to be able to provide the type of hanger<br />

the buyer requires. Perumal goes on: “To<br />

achieve this we depend on technically<br />

advanced equipment, produced within<br />

the group by Mainetti Tecnologie. We<br />

design, develop and manufacture<br />

leading-edge robotic systems and<br />

automated equipment for the<br />

production of high-quality garment<br />

hangers at the lowest possible cost.<br />

Perumal explains his recipe for success<br />

in this business: “It is very important to<br />

think globally and act locally, to be able<br />

to have the quickest response for this<br />

just-in-time industry. Our mission is to<br />

support our costumers in their sourcing<br />

operations.”<br />

As people such as Perumal work<br />

increasingly closely with the local<br />

market, their ethos and mindset will<br />

surely influence others, especially the<br />

more dynamic, middle-ranking players<br />

who do not have the luxury of studying<br />

international methods on extended<br />

international trips.<br />

The strong support that Mainetti has<br />

shown its local company has helped<br />

Mainettech become the first local hanger<br />

producer to obtain the ISO 9002 certification,<br />

in 1998. By bringing international<br />

standards and internationally trained and<br />

experienced managers to the local<br />

market, manufacturers such as Mainetti<br />

are helping evolve the local market. In its<br />

continuing quest to respond to clients’<br />

ever-changing needs, Mainetti lives by<br />

the slogan: “More than just a hanger.”<br />

Maybe local garment producers will<br />

learn from the example and adopt a<br />

similar slogan: “More than just a<br />

garment manufacturer…” FBI<br />

32<br />

fashionbusinessinternational


specialreportsrilanka<br />

Social Compliance<br />

Gives <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> an Edge<br />

In a world of borderless trade, the<br />

theory of comparative advantage<br />

states that when country A is able<br />

to produce and export a specific<br />

product for less than country B, then<br />

country A has a comparative<br />

advantage in that product.<br />

Nowhere has this theory been more<br />

ruthlessly applied than in the world<br />

of textiles, where buyers from<br />

around the world continuously seek<br />

to source increasingly cheaper<br />

textiles from countries that have a<br />

comparative advantage in producing<br />

textiles.<br />

Unfortunately, this theory contains<br />

a major flaw. It does not allow for<br />

equality in standards – not the<br />

standards of the final product, but of<br />

the environment and social welfare<br />

in the place where the garments are<br />

produced.<br />

All over the world, garment<br />

manufacturers are struggling to<br />

provide the best quality products at<br />

the lowest prices within the shortest<br />

space of time. But is this enough to<br />

get orders? The whole garmentmanufacturing<br />

sector in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is<br />

convinced that, to be successful, it<br />

has to go further.<br />

And the area where <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is<br />

proudly head-and-shoulders above its<br />

competitors within the region is its<br />

compliance with international<br />

standards in terms of labour laws,<br />

environment protection and respect<br />

for human rights.<br />

In recent years, mass retailers and<br />

the biggest brands have been under<br />

huge pressure from consumers<br />

groups and the ever-vocal lobbies in<br />

the Western countries, forcing them<br />

to source from countries and<br />

companies that comply with international<br />

labour standards and human<br />

‘<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has a tremendous<br />

advantage, especially in<br />

comparison with its neighbours’<br />

rights. Damning reports on such<br />

high-profile retailers as Nike and<br />

Reebok have forced both companies<br />

to search for more ‘suitable’<br />

suppliers, whilst also spending<br />

millions on building their image as<br />

caring employers.<br />

And in terms of standards<br />

compliance, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has a<br />

tremendous advantage, especially in<br />

comparison with its neighbours.<br />

Firstly, owners throughout the<br />

country proudly point out that there<br />

is no child labour, nor sweatshops,<br />

nor forced labour. Wage rates,<br />

overtime and workers’ holidays are<br />

strictly covered by law and, as<br />

Channa Palansuriya, CEO of Orit,<br />

confirms: “Big buyers actually refuse<br />

to work with producers that are not<br />

april-may <strong>2003</strong><br />

33


specialreportsrilanka<br />

socially and ethically compliant. As<br />

these issues become increasingly<br />

important, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has a real<br />

competitive advantage over other<br />

regional players.”<br />

Even though low, production costs<br />

in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> are not the cheapest in<br />

the region. It has therefore been<br />

necessary to develop other<br />

advantages. Rami Wiersch, CEO of<br />

Hoodvian Ltd, comments: “It will be<br />

an even more important subject in<br />

the years to come because social<br />

compliance is part of the WTO. For<br />

an equal price, buyers are<br />

definitely choosing the<br />

company with the highest<br />

level of compliance.”<br />

But it does not just make<br />

sense from the buyer’s<br />

perspective. There is also an<br />

advantage for the industry as<br />

a whole. Gihan Nanayakkara,<br />

CEO of Forbes, explains: “If<br />

you are not compliant in<br />

today’s business, there’s no<br />

point in marketing yourself<br />

and no way to get orders.”<br />

Big buyers are increasingly<br />

sensitive to the way workers<br />

are treated in the garment<br />

factories where they place<br />

their orders, and it is an issue<br />

that will become even more<br />

important. Rizvi Farouk,<br />

chairman of the <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong><br />

Buyers Association, said: “I<br />

think that, if we can adapt a<br />

higher compliance policy like in the<br />

US or in Europe, efficiency will<br />

dramatically improve and it will allow<br />

the hard-working people to earn<br />

more.”<br />

It does not take rocket science to<br />

realise that, by improving working<br />

conditions, companies can look<br />

forward to gains in efficiency and<br />

productivity, not to mention reduced<br />

absenteeism and employee turnover.<br />

Shirenda Lawrence, managing<br />

director of Courtaulds <strong>Lanka</strong>, which<br />

has an impressively modern factory,<br />

illustrates this: “As soon as we<br />

started providing meals as well as<br />

transportation from home,<br />

absenteeism fell immediately and<br />

dramatically.”<br />

If the whole industry seems to be<br />

fully aware of the necessity of<br />

compliance, its leaders also point out<br />

the need to update labour laws to<br />

maintain the industry’s edge over the<br />

competition. Farouk, from the <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong> Buyers Association, explains:<br />

“<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has labour laws from the<br />

‘60s, which are not practical for<br />

today’s business. Labour laws are<br />

one of the first things an investor<br />

needs to be comfortable with. Ours<br />

are slightly outdated and could be<br />

more appealing, to attract foreign<br />

investors.”<br />

R.E.V. Casie Chetty, chairman of the<br />

<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> Apparel Exporters<br />

Association, goes into more detail:<br />

“The government has to step<br />

forward to amend obsolete laws,<br />

particularly with regard to the<br />

termination of employment and<br />

overtime limitations, to make the<br />

industry globally more competitive.”<br />

In addition to social standards,<br />

environmental protection appears as<br />

a major concern. Indika Silva, CEO of<br />

M. Samson Silva, says: “As a Buddhist<br />

country, environment protection is<br />

considered as natural behaviour.”<br />

That’s why water treatment plants<br />

are very common within <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>n<br />

factories.<br />

34<br />

fashionbusinessinternational


specialreportsrilanka<br />

Whilst the more forward-thinking producers of the<br />

region have realised that these standards are de rigueur if<br />

they are to attract the best and most reliable buyers, <strong>Sri</strong><br />

<strong>Lanka</strong> has in fact proven herself capable of applying the<br />

theories right across the board. Although considered<br />

outdated by the locals, the current labour laws are years<br />

ahead of some countries who would not wish to be<br />

advertised. Equally impressive is the level of openness and<br />

support for such initiatives, a far cry from a country such<br />

as Indonesia, where players can only complain about the<br />

restrictions placed on them by labour laws.<br />

At the end of the day, it is not always the price level<br />

that determines a country’s comparative advantage, but<br />

also its willingness to comply with the peripheral – or<br />

should it be central? – needs and requirements of their<br />

destination markets.<br />

FBI<br />

USEFUL CONTACTS IN SRI LANKA<br />

april-may <strong>2003</strong><br />

35

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