Sri Lanka Textiles 2003 - Global Business Reports
Sri Lanka Textiles 2003 - Global Business Reports
Sri Lanka Textiles 2003 - Global Business Reports
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specialreport<br />
srilanka<br />
SRI LANKA<br />
A Prospect of Peace<br />
A Special Report by Arnaud Burtin and Özgür Ergüney<br />
Ateardrop ‘<br />
from India –<br />
that’s the way Rudyard<br />
Kipling described <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong>, or Ceylon as it<br />
was called in his time.<br />
This lush island won its independence<br />
from Britain in 1948 and, at the time,<br />
the newly created country of 20<br />
million inhabitants was described by<br />
the World Bank as having one of the<br />
most promising futures of all the<br />
countries of Asia.<br />
Unfortunately, although still<br />
remarkably beautiful and unspoilt,<br />
the country still remains among the<br />
poorest in the world. One of the<br />
factors underlying this inability to<br />
realise its potential has been the<br />
prolonged civil war between the<br />
government and the separatist Tamil<br />
Tigers, a conflict that has blighted<br />
the country for more than 20 years.<br />
These 20 years have not been kind<br />
to the country and, rather than<br />
marvel at the beaches, ancient<br />
temples and palaces that are features<br />
of the island, the world watched in<br />
horror at all the carnage and death.<br />
However, life has gone on and the<br />
garment sector has coped – some<br />
would say thrived – through such<br />
oppressive times, with annual<br />
growth rates of over 16% per annum<br />
for the past two decades. The<br />
industry has become the real engine<br />
of <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>’s economy, providing<br />
more than 300,000 jobs (30% of<br />
manufacturing employment) and<br />
almost half its foreign earnings. This,<br />
despite the fact that the country has<br />
had to continuously divert funds and<br />
resources to support the conflict,<br />
instead of improving infrastructure,<br />
education, health and other areas so<br />
necessary to support an emerging<br />
economy.<br />
The conflict aside, the macroeconomics<br />
of the island are pretty<br />
robust, with average annual growth<br />
rates of approximately 5.3% over the<br />
last five years, an unemployment rate<br />
24<br />
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specialreportsrilanka<br />
of less than 9% and steady inflation<br />
rates. The welfare policies of most of<br />
the post-independence governments<br />
have given <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> a very high<br />
literacy rate (95% for males and 90%<br />
for females), comparable to the most<br />
developed Western countries, and a<br />
health record enviable in the minds<br />
of other third-world countries. With<br />
English commonly spoken and an<br />
impressive passion for cricket, <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong> has very strong links with UK –<br />
links that are exemplified by the fact<br />
that its apparel exports to the EU are<br />
almost completely focused on the<br />
UK.<br />
Before independence, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>’s<br />
economy was centred on plantation<br />
crops (tea and rubber products).<br />
While agriculture remains important,<br />
the economy has since become<br />
considerably more diversified. The<br />
garment industry really started in the<br />
mid-‘70s, as the economy was<br />
liberalised and oriented towards<br />
export-led industries, growing thanks<br />
to the quota system and a very<br />
cheap labour force. Quotas allowed<br />
garment producers to stay focused<br />
on improving manufacturing skills,<br />
and also on strengthening their<br />
relationships with buyers.<br />
The industry started by manufacturing<br />
garments for the basic<br />
markets, such as discount stores,<br />
although now it is progressively<br />
going up-market, working for<br />
department stores and brands that<br />
are among the biggest players in the<br />
industry. Household names such as<br />
JC Penney in the USA, and Marks &<br />
Spencer in UK, are regular buyers<br />
from the island.<br />
But <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has rapidly evolved<br />
from a simple contract manufacturing<br />
base and has attracted some<br />
of the major manufacturing players<br />
to set up operations there.<br />
Subsidiaries of global players such as<br />
Esquel and Fountain Set have<br />
established local subsidiaries, Polytex<br />
april-may <strong>2003</strong><br />
25
specialreportsrilanka<br />
and Ocean <strong>Lanka</strong>, respectively. There<br />
has also been the establishment of a<br />
number of joint ventures with local<br />
operators such as Courtaulds <strong>Lanka</strong><br />
or MAS Holding.<br />
Like many industries, the garment<br />
sector in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has evolved to<br />
become increasingly consolidated. In<br />
2001, 12% of local exporters<br />
generated 72% of the country’s<br />
export revenue in the garment sector.<br />
Having established themselves as the<br />
leading companies, with established<br />
production facilities and strong<br />
customer ties, these companies are<br />
now concentrating on moving<br />
upmarket. This has entailed<br />
developing more of the value-added<br />
services that high-end buyers expect<br />
from their suppliers. From the initial<br />
fabric design, through to the final<br />
delivery, these firms are becoming<br />
increasingly competent in providing<br />
the complete solution to their clients.<br />
The issues faced by the industry<br />
today are many and varied – issues<br />
that will ultimately have an adverse<br />
effect on growth. The lack of a local<br />
fabric-production base means that<br />
most producers can only provide a<br />
90-day lead time, as opposed to the<br />
60-day standard that many other<br />
Asian countries are able to work to.<br />
Other factors include low levels of<br />
productivity and, of course, the<br />
internal conflict that has scared many<br />
buyers who may have otherwise<br />
been tempted.<br />
Despite these handicaps, the<br />
growth of the sector has been<br />
constantly good to the extent that, if<br />
the country manages to solve these<br />
issues, its advantages will become<br />
even more compelling. Given the<br />
high literacy rate, developed social<br />
compliance regulations and low<br />
labour rates, the country has many<br />
attractions.<br />
After numerous attempts at peace,<br />
the current ceasefire and subsequent<br />
negotiations in Thailand have given<br />
the whole country the feeling that<br />
the end of the conflict is finally in<br />
sight. The garment sector is naturally<br />
anxious for current talks to continue<br />
and ultimately succeed in bringing<br />
lasting peace, which would in turn<br />
bring improvements in infrastructure,<br />
business climate, investment<br />
potential and, of course, living<br />
standards.<br />
Like many other countries, <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong> is under pressure to put in<br />
place an attractive economic<br />
environment and an up-to-date<br />
industry before the complete liberalisation<br />
of the world apparel market in<br />
less than two years. Locally, many<br />
view 2005 as the death knell for<br />
small to medium-size enterprises,<br />
which only exist today through the<br />
protection that current quotas bring.<br />
The government and key-players are<br />
aware of the threat and have already<br />
decided to launch a common<br />
strategy for the next five years, to<br />
equip the industry and the whole<br />
society for the challenges of 2005.<br />
With the peace process bringing<br />
prosperity and stability to <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>,<br />
the country has one less major<br />
headache to worry about.<br />
Many, among the 25 top exporters,<br />
have already provided, or are on<br />
their way to providing, integrated<br />
services with a good level of<br />
compliance with production and<br />
social standards. At the same time,<br />
they have to maintain competitive<br />
prices and market their abilities to<br />
their customer base. They also want<br />
to have a more balanced market<br />
between the US and the European<br />
Union, and – by improving efficiency<br />
and the services expected by the<br />
more discerning buyers at the top<br />
end of the market – to continue<br />
moving up the value scale.<br />
The island of Ceylon has a long<br />
tradition of trading between Asia<br />
and Europe. Today’s <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> wants<br />
again to become a regional hub on<br />
the back of its thriving garment<br />
industry. Much of the groundwork<br />
has already been done, as the<br />
country is already established among<br />
some of the biggest buyers in the<br />
industry, despite its obvious<br />
handicaps. Now the country has<br />
identified the ways in which it must<br />
concentrate its resources, and how it<br />
must apply itself to meet the new<br />
challenges it will face in 2005. There<br />
is still every chance that <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> can<br />
become the shining Asian star that<br />
the World Bank once predicted – it<br />
may just be a matter of time. FBI<br />
26<br />
fashionbusinessinternational
Peace Process<br />
Ushers in<br />
New Era<br />
The garment market is<br />
arguably the most globalised<br />
in the world and, because of<br />
political uncertainty, countryrisk<br />
rating has become a key element<br />
for major buyers and potential<br />
investors.<br />
Unfortunately, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has fallen<br />
into the higher-risk category for<br />
some time, due to the merciless civil<br />
war that has plagued the country for<br />
over two decades. The separatist<br />
group, LTTE, more commonly known<br />
as The Tamil Tigers, was fighting<br />
Colombo’s central power with the<br />
explicit aim of creating an<br />
independent state in the northern<br />
and north-eastern area of the island.<br />
For years, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has been<br />
headlining the world news with the<br />
latest Tamil Tiger terrorist attack,<br />
such as the daring raid on Colombo’s<br />
international airport in July 2001,<br />
which destroyed nearly half the<br />
national airline’s fleet.<br />
The conflict has its roots in<br />
colonial-era migration. The Tamil<br />
Tigers portray themselves as<br />
representatives of the local Tamil<br />
population. The Tamils were brought<br />
to <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> from southern India by<br />
the British, to pick the tea leaves, a<br />
career option that did not attract the<br />
indigenous Sinhalese. With<br />
independence, the by then<br />
substantial Tamil population became<br />
increasingly marginalised, as the<br />
Sinhalese shut them out of<br />
government and out of many aspects<br />
of everyday life.<br />
The situation came to the boil<br />
during the 1980s, when more<br />
militant elements in the Tamil<br />
population took matters into their<br />
own hands and began demanding a<br />
separate state within the island – a<br />
demand that ultimately led to the<br />
tragic armed conflict.<br />
“For <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>, the biggest<br />
problem is that very few people<br />
know about us… The main issue<br />
is to bring people here.”<br />
At the beginning of 2002, with a<br />
new government elected, talks with<br />
the LTTE were launched, achieving a<br />
ceasefire agreement that has proven<br />
to be more stable than previous<br />
attempts. As Professor G.L. Pieris,<br />
Minister of Enterprise, Development<br />
and Constitutional Affairs – in charge<br />
of the Peace process – summed up:<br />
“What is important is the conviction<br />
that the peace process itself is the<br />
only way. There is no other way. Both<br />
parties have established a rapport,<br />
they started the discussions and it is<br />
moving forward.”<br />
The latest peace initiative has<br />
certainly been a major boost for all<br />
april-may <strong>2003</strong> 27
sectors of the country’s society. As Guhan Nanayakkara,<br />
managing director of Forbes, explains: “It is a major<br />
change in our daily lives and also in the way we do<br />
business. During the civil war, buyers were reluctant to<br />
come and visit us so we had to meet them in Hong Kong<br />
or Singapore.”<br />
Shirenda Lawrence, managing director of Courtaulds<br />
<strong>Lanka</strong>, a subsidiary of Courtaulds-Sara Lee, says: “Now the<br />
buyers are keen to come and visit us, marking a real<br />
improvement and a great opportunity for us.” All the key<br />
players are persuaded<br />
that, if the buyers “Those who come do not<br />
come, they will be<br />
leave disappointed!”<br />
convinced. As Ashroff<br />
Omar, chairman of MAST <strong>Lanka</strong>, the island’s second<br />
largest garment exporter, states: “Those who come do not<br />
leave disappointed!”<br />
Bringing more buyers is obviously the main expectation<br />
from the industry, but for a lot of people it is far more<br />
than that. Lyn Fernando, chairman of Creations and<br />
former chairman of the <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> Apparel Exporter<br />
Association, explained what can be expected: “The<br />
massive amounts of money that our government spent on<br />
the war effort will now be used to make the country<br />
more competitive and more attractive through improving<br />
the roads, railways, ports and other infrastructure crucial<br />
for local business.” This should have a considerable effect,<br />
bearing in mind that the government is reckoned to have<br />
spent approximately $750 million a year on the conflict.<br />
Both the government and the industry want to take the<br />
opportunity of peace in order to go further, by trying to<br />
get Free Trade Agreements (FTA) with the US and the<br />
European Union. Everyone agrees that FTAs and improved<br />
infrastructure would bring much more competitiveness to<br />
the industry, but to succeed, the existence of peace has to<br />
be known abroad.<br />
And that is certainly one of the main disadvantages of<br />
the country, as Omar admitted: “For <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>, the biggest<br />
problem is that very few people know about us… The<br />
main issue is to bring people here.”<br />
However, having met the challenge of peace, the task of<br />
attracting the buyer’s dollar and investor’s pound should<br />
be a little easier now.<br />
FBI<br />
28<br />
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Planning<br />
for the<br />
New Order<br />
Many, rightly or wrongly,<br />
anticipate the approach<br />
of 2005 with fear and<br />
trepidation – something<br />
akin to judgement day. It seems,<br />
having interviewed textile executives<br />
across the globe, that only the<br />
Chinese could be excused for<br />
looking forward to this date!<br />
<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is no exception, as it<br />
fears the phasing-out of a quota<br />
system that has so helped it to build<br />
a thriving industry – an industry that<br />
has formed the backbone of the<br />
local economy. Different surveys<br />
point out that at least 40% of the<br />
850 major companies active in the<br />
sector will shrink with the<br />
dismantling of the Multi-Fibre<br />
Agreement.<br />
In response to this perceived<br />
threat to such an important earner<br />
(half of the island’s exports<br />
originate in the textile sector), the<br />
public and private sectors have<br />
joined together to identify<br />
the industry’s failings and to<br />
formulate solutions in<br />
response. Part of the<br />
“Regaining <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>”<br />
programme, designed to<br />
stimulate a lack-lustre<br />
economy after 20 years of<br />
civil war, the resulting fiveyear<br />
strategic plan is the<br />
industry’s bible for future<br />
growth and prosperity.<br />
Thanks to the quota<br />
system, the local garment<br />
industry grew at an amazing rate<br />
over the past two decades. Exports<br />
grew from $468 million in 1989 to<br />
$2.34 billion in 2001. The protective<br />
blanket of the system allowed<br />
companies time to invest in and<br />
develop their businesses, with the<br />
result that many leading Western<br />
brands have become regular buyers.<br />
For example, the island’s responsible<br />
social and environmental standards<br />
have attracted the likes of Nike and<br />
Marks & Spencer.<br />
But the industry as a whole knows<br />
that it would be almost impossible to<br />
compete in the volume markets with<br />
much lower-cost countries like China<br />
and Bangladesh in a post-2005<br />
environment. Mahesh Amalean,<br />
chairman of MAS Holdings, explains<br />
the general mood in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>:<br />
“Competing with them would take a<br />
lot of energy, and I would rather use<br />
our resources and energies to<br />
penetrate niche markets”.<br />
Lyn Fernando, chairman of<br />
Creations, goes further: “Competing<br />
with very cheap countries would<br />
mean giving up our level of social<br />
compliance. To avoid this dilemma,<br />
we have to go up-market.”<br />
The first issue that <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> must<br />
face, in order to achieve its up-market<br />
ambition, is what the “5-year strategic<br />
plan” calls backward integration. <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong> currently imports over 40% of<br />
the raw materials needed by the<br />
garment industry.<br />
“Yarn and fabric producers were<br />
april-may <strong>2003</strong><br />
29
specialreportsrilanka<br />
reluctant to settle here, because of<br />
the lack of local market,” explains<br />
Sam Speeza, managing director of<br />
Hayleys MGT, an Australian-based<br />
company. Fabrics and yarns are<br />
mainly imported from Hong Kong,<br />
China and India. The goal of the<br />
industry is to reduce the current<br />
lead-time from 90 days to the 60<br />
days increasingly demanded by<br />
buyers.<br />
There are two options to consider<br />
here. The first would be to establish<br />
local weaving mills, which would<br />
reduce lead times but would require<br />
massive amounts of capital and<br />
considerable development time. The<br />
few mills settled in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> –<br />
including Ocean <strong>Lanka</strong> (owned by<br />
MAST <strong>Lanka</strong>), Hideramani Group and<br />
Fountain Set – are nevertheless very<br />
dynamic and have good-quality<br />
products. They are all planning<br />
massive expansions.<br />
Man-Kue Pow, director of Ocean<br />
<strong>Lanka</strong>, said: “We already have three<br />
plants and we want to set up<br />
enough facilities to triple our<br />
production capacity.” By<br />
combining the power of the<br />
country’s second and third largest<br />
exporters with the global might of<br />
the world’s leading yarn<br />
manufacturer, the idea is<br />
to draw upon<br />
expertise from both<br />
up- and<br />
downstream of<br />
the production<br />
process.<br />
The <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong>n<br />
Board of<br />
Investment<br />
(BOI) reckons<br />
that for this<br />
plan to work<br />
effectively, the<br />
country needs a<br />
minimum of two<br />
woven fabric mills<br />
to supply local<br />
demand sufficiently.<br />
The BOI wants to<br />
attract companies<br />
that are currently<br />
seeking for relocate<br />
mills established in<br />
expensive Europe or Northern Asia<br />
(for example in South Korea).<br />
The second track is a more<br />
pragmatic and easily realisable.<br />
Ashroff Omar, chairman of MAST<br />
<strong>Lanka</strong>, told us: “We are trying to<br />
create closer links with countries like<br />
India and Pakistan, who have<br />
relatively quick delivery times.” With<br />
the signing of a free-trade agreement<br />
with India and Pakistan, local<br />
suppliers can now rely on tariff-free<br />
fabrics.<br />
Amalean sums up the need for<br />
backward integration: “We have to<br />
both strengthen <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>’s fabric<br />
base and also look how to better use<br />
regional fabric. Giving <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> a<br />
fabric base should not be given a<br />
second priority, because flexibility<br />
and speed are paramount in our<br />
business.” With local companies<br />
already buying $1.5 billion annually,<br />
international companies would do<br />
well to work take notice.<br />
One of the underlying<br />
assumptions of the<br />
strategic plan is that<br />
the local industry<br />
must move away<br />
from the lower-end<br />
market and look to<br />
engage more<br />
demanding higherend<br />
clients.<br />
Currently,<br />
around 40%<br />
of <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong>n<br />
production<br />
goes to<br />
discount stores<br />
and between<br />
50% and 60% to<br />
department<br />
stores, with only<br />
10% to speciality<br />
stores and the<br />
brands. The goal is<br />
to increase this<br />
final figure to at<br />
least 30% within the<br />
five years.<br />
Like many other<br />
garment manufacturers<br />
around the<br />
world, the local<br />
industry has also been<br />
encouraged to provide increasingly<br />
sophisticated services to its<br />
customers. MAST <strong>Lanka</strong>’s Omar, who<br />
is part of the ‘Regaining <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>’<br />
team, reckons that: “We are trying to<br />
educate the industry about following<br />
fabric fashions and trends. Providing<br />
a complete solution is what we have<br />
to emphasise.”<br />
Product development and sampling<br />
are common services among the top<br />
apparel producers. Not surprisingly,<br />
companies such as Hoodvian and M.<br />
Samson Silva already have their<br />
sights aimed higher, by employing<br />
their own design teams. Indika Silva,<br />
of M. Samson Silva, explains: “Our<br />
strategy is to provide costumers with<br />
a global solution.” Amalean, of MAS<br />
Holdings, underlines the strategy:<br />
“We have to provide a total service<br />
to the customer, which involves<br />
being active in the entire supply<br />
chain to ensure that we get the<br />
‘freshest’ products on to the<br />
shelves.”<br />
The phasing-out of quotas is an<br />
issue for any garment producing<br />
country, but <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is perfectly<br />
aware of the threat hovering over it.<br />
Instead of competition among<br />
companies, the garment sector<br />
appears united in facing the<br />
challenges to come, with strong<br />
support from the government.<br />
Important goals, such as achieving<br />
peace and solving the lack of<br />
backward linkages, are crucial if the<br />
industry is to maintain its ability to<br />
provide <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> with external<br />
earnings and massive employment.<br />
Coupled to these investments at<br />
home, the country must look to –<br />
and is currently in the process of –<br />
extending the number of Free Trade<br />
Agreements (FTA) with key<br />
destination markets, mainly in<br />
Europe.<br />
By providing the answers to all the<br />
questions that hang over its future,<br />
the industry aims to grow its current<br />
export figure to $4.5 billion by<br />
2007, which is ambitious but<br />
realistic, if <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> can inform the<br />
world about its specific qualities –<br />
advantages that no other country in<br />
the region has been able to<br />
develop…so far.<br />
FBI<br />
30 fashionbusinessinternational
Mainettech ad
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The Power of<br />
<strong>Global</strong> Thinking<br />
Although only 25 years old, the<br />
<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>n garment industry<br />
has spawned an impressive<br />
accessory industry. First among<br />
these is global player Mainetti, one of the<br />
largest garment-hanger suppliers in the<br />
world, with operations in 25 countries.<br />
The growth of Mainettech, the<br />
company’s local production facility,<br />
exemplifies how the presence of<br />
accessories suppliers is crucial for apparel<br />
manufacturers. But it is the backing of a<br />
global company that has allowed this<br />
demand to be converted into the largest<br />
range of products and services that the<br />
industry could possibly expect.<br />
Established 10 years ago, when the<br />
garment sector was still in its infancy,<br />
Mainettech is today the island’s leading<br />
supplier of hangers and, in turn, <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong> is now the company’s strategic<br />
hub for the Indian subcontinent.<br />
Mainetti’s success in developing a hub is<br />
a lesson that many in the local industry<br />
are looking to replicate.<br />
Jeyam Perumal, the company’s regional<br />
director, explains the philosophy of the<br />
group: “A Mainetti hanger produced in<br />
<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is absolutely identical to<br />
another Mainetti hanger produced<br />
elsewhere in the world.” With garment<br />
manufacturers expected to supply their<br />
garments quickly, flexibly and at a<br />
constant quality, so the hanger<br />
manufacturer is expected to work under<br />
similar criteria. “Our systems and<br />
facilities have evolved to ensure that we<br />
become an essential part of the supply<br />
chain. Most importantly, our success<br />
relies on the fact that we think globally,<br />
but act locally.”<br />
“Our success relies on the fact<br />
that we think globally,<br />
but act locally.”<br />
Apparel manufacturers expect a lot<br />
from a hanger supplier, which has to be<br />
flexible, to insure a constant quality of<br />
products and delivery. Perumal explains<br />
the company’s approach to fulfilling<br />
these requirements: “We have evolved<br />
systems and facilities to ensure that we<br />
become an essential part in the supply<br />
chain. It is a partnership approach that<br />
defines us.”<br />
With a catalogue of over 350 hanger<br />
models, it is important for the company<br />
to be able to provide the type of hanger<br />
the buyer requires. Perumal goes on: “To<br />
achieve this we depend on technically<br />
advanced equipment, produced within<br />
the group by Mainetti Tecnologie. We<br />
design, develop and manufacture<br />
leading-edge robotic systems and<br />
automated equipment for the<br />
production of high-quality garment<br />
hangers at the lowest possible cost.<br />
Perumal explains his recipe for success<br />
in this business: “It is very important to<br />
think globally and act locally, to be able<br />
to have the quickest response for this<br />
just-in-time industry. Our mission is to<br />
support our costumers in their sourcing<br />
operations.”<br />
As people such as Perumal work<br />
increasingly closely with the local<br />
market, their ethos and mindset will<br />
surely influence others, especially the<br />
more dynamic, middle-ranking players<br />
who do not have the luxury of studying<br />
international methods on extended<br />
international trips.<br />
The strong support that Mainetti has<br />
shown its local company has helped<br />
Mainettech become the first local hanger<br />
producer to obtain the ISO 9002 certification,<br />
in 1998. By bringing international<br />
standards and internationally trained and<br />
experienced managers to the local<br />
market, manufacturers such as Mainetti<br />
are helping evolve the local market. In its<br />
continuing quest to respond to clients’<br />
ever-changing needs, Mainetti lives by<br />
the slogan: “More than just a hanger.”<br />
Maybe local garment producers will<br />
learn from the example and adopt a<br />
similar slogan: “More than just a<br />
garment manufacturer…” FBI<br />
32<br />
fashionbusinessinternational
specialreportsrilanka<br />
Social Compliance<br />
Gives <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> an Edge<br />
In a world of borderless trade, the<br />
theory of comparative advantage<br />
states that when country A is able<br />
to produce and export a specific<br />
product for less than country B, then<br />
country A has a comparative<br />
advantage in that product.<br />
Nowhere has this theory been more<br />
ruthlessly applied than in the world<br />
of textiles, where buyers from<br />
around the world continuously seek<br />
to source increasingly cheaper<br />
textiles from countries that have a<br />
comparative advantage in producing<br />
textiles.<br />
Unfortunately, this theory contains<br />
a major flaw. It does not allow for<br />
equality in standards – not the<br />
standards of the final product, but of<br />
the environment and social welfare<br />
in the place where the garments are<br />
produced.<br />
All over the world, garment<br />
manufacturers are struggling to<br />
provide the best quality products at<br />
the lowest prices within the shortest<br />
space of time. But is this enough to<br />
get orders? The whole garmentmanufacturing<br />
sector in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is<br />
convinced that, to be successful, it<br />
has to go further.<br />
And the area where <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> is<br />
proudly head-and-shoulders above its<br />
competitors within the region is its<br />
compliance with international<br />
standards in terms of labour laws,<br />
environment protection and respect<br />
for human rights.<br />
In recent years, mass retailers and<br />
the biggest brands have been under<br />
huge pressure from consumers<br />
groups and the ever-vocal lobbies in<br />
the Western countries, forcing them<br />
to source from countries and<br />
companies that comply with international<br />
labour standards and human<br />
‘<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has a tremendous<br />
advantage, especially in<br />
comparison with its neighbours’<br />
rights. Damning reports on such<br />
high-profile retailers as Nike and<br />
Reebok have forced both companies<br />
to search for more ‘suitable’<br />
suppliers, whilst also spending<br />
millions on building their image as<br />
caring employers.<br />
And in terms of standards<br />
compliance, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has a<br />
tremendous advantage, especially in<br />
comparison with its neighbours.<br />
Firstly, owners throughout the<br />
country proudly point out that there<br />
is no child labour, nor sweatshops,<br />
nor forced labour. Wage rates,<br />
overtime and workers’ holidays are<br />
strictly covered by law and, as<br />
Channa Palansuriya, CEO of Orit,<br />
confirms: “Big buyers actually refuse<br />
to work with producers that are not<br />
april-may <strong>2003</strong><br />
33
specialreportsrilanka<br />
socially and ethically compliant. As<br />
these issues become increasingly<br />
important, <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has a real<br />
competitive advantage over other<br />
regional players.”<br />
Even though low, production costs<br />
in <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> are not the cheapest in<br />
the region. It has therefore been<br />
necessary to develop other<br />
advantages. Rami Wiersch, CEO of<br />
Hoodvian Ltd, comments: “It will be<br />
an even more important subject in<br />
the years to come because social<br />
compliance is part of the WTO. For<br />
an equal price, buyers are<br />
definitely choosing the<br />
company with the highest<br />
level of compliance.”<br />
But it does not just make<br />
sense from the buyer’s<br />
perspective. There is also an<br />
advantage for the industry as<br />
a whole. Gihan Nanayakkara,<br />
CEO of Forbes, explains: “If<br />
you are not compliant in<br />
today’s business, there’s no<br />
point in marketing yourself<br />
and no way to get orders.”<br />
Big buyers are increasingly<br />
sensitive to the way workers<br />
are treated in the garment<br />
factories where they place<br />
their orders, and it is an issue<br />
that will become even more<br />
important. Rizvi Farouk,<br />
chairman of the <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong><br />
Buyers Association, said: “I<br />
think that, if we can adapt a<br />
higher compliance policy like in the<br />
US or in Europe, efficiency will<br />
dramatically improve and it will allow<br />
the hard-working people to earn<br />
more.”<br />
It does not take rocket science to<br />
realise that, by improving working<br />
conditions, companies can look<br />
forward to gains in efficiency and<br />
productivity, not to mention reduced<br />
absenteeism and employee turnover.<br />
Shirenda Lawrence, managing<br />
director of Courtaulds <strong>Lanka</strong>, which<br />
has an impressively modern factory,<br />
illustrates this: “As soon as we<br />
started providing meals as well as<br />
transportation from home,<br />
absenteeism fell immediately and<br />
dramatically.”<br />
If the whole industry seems to be<br />
fully aware of the necessity of<br />
compliance, its leaders also point out<br />
the need to update labour laws to<br />
maintain the industry’s edge over the<br />
competition. Farouk, from the <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong> Buyers Association, explains:<br />
“<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> has labour laws from the<br />
‘60s, which are not practical for<br />
today’s business. Labour laws are<br />
one of the first things an investor<br />
needs to be comfortable with. Ours<br />
are slightly outdated and could be<br />
more appealing, to attract foreign<br />
investors.”<br />
R.E.V. Casie Chetty, chairman of the<br />
<strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong> Apparel Exporters<br />
Association, goes into more detail:<br />
“The government has to step<br />
forward to amend obsolete laws,<br />
particularly with regard to the<br />
termination of employment and<br />
overtime limitations, to make the<br />
industry globally more competitive.”<br />
In addition to social standards,<br />
environmental protection appears as<br />
a major concern. Indika Silva, CEO of<br />
M. Samson Silva, says: “As a Buddhist<br />
country, environment protection is<br />
considered as natural behaviour.”<br />
That’s why water treatment plants<br />
are very common within <strong>Sri</strong> <strong>Lanka</strong>n<br />
factories.<br />
34<br />
fashionbusinessinternational
specialreportsrilanka<br />
Whilst the more forward-thinking producers of the<br />
region have realised that these standards are de rigueur if<br />
they are to attract the best and most reliable buyers, <strong>Sri</strong><br />
<strong>Lanka</strong> has in fact proven herself capable of applying the<br />
theories right across the board. Although considered<br />
outdated by the locals, the current labour laws are years<br />
ahead of some countries who would not wish to be<br />
advertised. Equally impressive is the level of openness and<br />
support for such initiatives, a far cry from a country such<br />
as Indonesia, where players can only complain about the<br />
restrictions placed on them by labour laws.<br />
At the end of the day, it is not always the price level<br />
that determines a country’s comparative advantage, but<br />
also its willingness to comply with the peripheral – or<br />
should it be central? – needs and requirements of their<br />
destination markets.<br />
FBI<br />
USEFUL CONTACTS IN SRI LANKA<br />
april-may <strong>2003</strong><br />
35