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021 (Winter 1973) - National Speleological Society

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The Journal of Spelean History <br />

OFFICI PUBUCATION of The AMERICAN SPELEAN HISTORY ASSOCIATION<br />

..<br />

*\ vlinter <strong>1973</strong><br />

Volume 6, No. 1 ·


ABOUT THE ASSOCIATION<br />

The American Spelean History Association is chartered as a non-profit<br />

corporation for the study, dissemination and int erpretation of spelean<br />

history and related purposes. All persons of hi gh ethical and moral<br />

character who are interested in these goals are cordially invited to become<br />

members. Annual membership is $5.00; family membership<br />

$6.00. Library subscriptions are $4.00.<br />

ABOUT THE QUARTERLY<br />

The Association publishes the Journal of Spelean History on a quarterly<br />

basis.<br />

P ertinent articles or reprints are welcomed. A s a photo -offset<br />

process is often used, the editor should be contacted in advance concerning<br />

the current type of manuscript preparation desired. Submission of<br />

rough drafts for preliminary editing is encouraged. lllustrations require<br />

special handling and arrangements must be made with the editor<br />

in advance.<br />

ABOUT BACK ISSUES<br />

The last two volues are available from the Secretary-treasurer at $5.00<br />

per volume. About half the other issues are available at $1. 00 per copy.<br />

All back issues are available on microfiche; for further information<br />

contact 3M-International Microfilm Press, 52.1 West 43rd Street, New<br />

York, N.Y. 10036.<br />

C)<br />

ABOUT<br />

THE<br />

COVER<br />

ILLUSTRATION<br />

This extraordinary view of natives of Yucatan ascending and descending<br />

a double-width ladder of lashed poles was sketched by<br />

erwood in the winter of 1841-1842. during the famous second expedition<br />

of John L. Stephens. The location is ,lithe old cenote" of Bolonchen ­<br />

"Nine Wells" - some distance from the ancient and modern townr but<br />

the only one which was reliable during drought. Stephens t description<br />

of the cenote and its cave is among the high points of his oft-reprinted<br />

Frederick Cath­<br />

"Incidents of travel in Yucatan", first published in 1841. ASHA member<br />

Jim Hedges has found this notable engraving not only in Catherwood's 1848<br />

rare I 'Views of ancient monuments in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan"<br />

and a 1965 reprint by Barre'Publishers, Barre, Massachusetts, but<br />

in "Books at Iowa", no. 16.11 April, 1972. (University of Iowa Press,- Iowa<br />

City). Yr editor has seen it only in Von Hagen's "Maya· Explorer: John<br />

Lloyd Stephens and the lost cities of Central America ancYYucatan! (University<br />

of Oklahoma Press, several editions), whence this reproduction.<br />

2.


THE JOURNAL OF <br />

SPELEAN<br />

HISTORY' <br />

Official quarterly publication of the American Spelean History Association<br />

President Secretary-treasurer Editor<br />

Dr. John F. Bridge Peter'M. Hauer Dr. William R. Halliday<br />

2. 06 W. 18th Ave. 12. 7, So. 2. 7th 1117 36th Avenue East<br />

Columbus, Ohio Harrisburg1 Penna. Seattle" Wash. 98112.<br />

,Volume 6, No.1<br />

Janu - March<strong>1973</strong><br />

TAB OF CONTNTS<br />

4 Meramec Cavems, Two Hundred and Fifty Yearsot History by Dwight Weaver.<br />

16 Reprt Section.<br />

23 Wht Cave is This ?<br />

24 'Colloquy.<br />

3


ABSTRACT<br />

MERAMAC<br />

CAVER NS<br />

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY YEARS OF HISTORY<br />

Part I - 1720 to 1875<br />

Meramec Caverns is one of the nation's most celebrated caves.<br />

It is Missouri1s most prominent commercial cave attraction and<br />

in all probability was one of the first major cave discoveries on<br />

the North American continent. Its history dates from 1720 and<br />

the days of Philip Renault. The first 155 years of its story include<br />

saltpetre mining, gunpowder making and the legendary<br />

exploits of Jesse James.<br />

Part II - 1875 to 1933<br />

During the turn of the century years Meramec Caverns was a<br />

popular wild cave attraction for the people of St. Louis as well<br />

as the people of its local area. It was the scene of many activities<br />

including dances, parties, picnics, weddings, and social<br />

and political gatherings. A wooden dance floor was built inside<br />

the cave as early as 1893.<br />

Part III - 1933 to 1972<br />

Meramec Caverns was purchased by Lester B.Dill in 1933. With<br />

the help of his family and a partner. the cave was opened to the<br />

public in l935. Its development and promotion has been a continuing<br />

drama for nearly 40 years. Its promotion has earned it a<br />

unique place in the annals of commercial cave histories. Patterns<br />

of cave promotion pioneered by its developers have set examples<br />

followed by many caves opened commercially in more recent years.<br />

C)<br />

Part IV<br />

-<br />

Personalities and aspects of<br />

c o:m:me r ci a1 ization<br />

The modern history of Mera:mec Cc.verns is the life stories of<br />

Lester B. Dill and Robert Hudson. In legend, the infa:mous have<br />

crossed its splendid corridors; in :more recent times :many notables<br />

have also become a part of its past, such as televisionls<br />

fa:ed ·Lassie, and the im:mortal Kate 5:mi tho Others who have<br />

become linked with the cave's history incl ude Rory Calhoun,<br />

Charles Laughton, The Ames Brothers,. Pearl Bailey, and Art<br />

Linkletter.<br />

The development of Meramec Caverns has peaked, in all probability,<br />

and its future does not suggest a higher level of commercial attainment.<br />

---- Dwight Weaver<br />

4


HERAI''IC<br />

CAVERNS<br />

TWO HUIDRED AND FIFTY YEARS OF HISTORY<br />

Part I<br />

by Dwight lveaver<br />

1720 -- 1875<br />

Meramec Caverns is Missouri's most prominent cmmnercial <br />

cave and one of the nation's most celebrated attractions of <br />

its type. Large, lengthy and unusually well decorateq for <br />

a Missouri cave, it is located south of st. Louis about 60 <br />

miles along I-44 at Stanton, Missouri. Situated in Franklin <br />

county and just outside the borders of the Meramec State <br />

Park, the cave is along the banks of the Meramec River. It <br />

has been open to the public since 1935. <br />

The early history of Meramec Caverns is a fragmented <br />

story. References to the cave predating the Civil War period <br />

are few. Commercial development of the cave has made <br />

potential artifact· sites within the cave inaccessible. A <br />

. proper investigation of the cave's archaeological potential<br />

has not been made.<br />

In 1963, however, during one phase of commercial work<br />

inside the cave, Indian remains were found and 'partially<br />

recovered. These remains, those of a young Indian, were found<br />

in a shallow burial about 270 feet back inside ,the cave entrance.<br />

The site was studied by the Archaeological S ocie ty<br />

of Missouri and a report later issued which stated that the<br />

remains were those of a "bundle burial".o<br />

The first aborigine inhabitants of Franklin county were<br />

the Moun Builders. Later Indian inhabitants included the<br />

Delaware', the Shawnee and' the .Osage. The predominate. Indian<br />

culture was the Osage when Spanish and French traders-,and<br />

miners began frequenting the region n the early l700's.<br />

"' " ' "<br />

The Indians' of the region were familiarwith Meramec<br />

Caverns. When the first white men journeyed up the Mississippi<br />

River it is said that they were ,told by the Indians "of a<br />

grea t cave said ••• to contain the lead mineral galena". _ Also<br />

the Indians, say the traditions, held the cave as the home of<br />

.<br />

their god "Ucapago".<br />

Thus it was that knowledge of the cave spread up and <br />

down the Mississippi Valley and eventually gave birth to <br />

Spanish tales that the cave contained gold and silver. This <br />

led'to the cave's early discovery. <br />

.<br />

Discovery<br />

The discovery of Meramec Caverns must have been coincithe<br />

first explorations up the Maramec Rivr which<br />

dental with<br />

empties into the Mississippi River just below the city of<br />

5


st. Louis. The river originates northeast of Salem, Mo.<br />

in Dent county and has a total length of about 240 miles.<br />

The river is fed by more than forty springs, Meramec Springs<br />

near Steelville being the largest.<br />

Discovery of the cave came shortly after the year 1700.<br />

The precise date has not been established. Certainly the<br />

discovery came no later than 1730 and in so doing, it became<br />

one of the first major cave discoveries on the North American<br />

continent. (There are few American caves as prominent as<br />

Meramec Caverns with a known history and/or discovery tjme<br />

that pre-dates 1740.)<br />

The Meramec River was discovered by Father James Gravier<br />

in the year 1700 while he was one a voyage from the country<br />

of Illinois to the south of the Mississippi. Le Sueur, who<br />

ascended the Mississippi River during the same year J wrote,<br />

about the Meramec River and its lead mines in his journal.<br />

Father Jacques Marquette, a Jesuit missionary, is sometimes<br />

credited with the discovery of Meramec Caverns because<br />

he was one of the first white men to explore the lower reaches<br />

of the Meramec Ri ver. The credit is more properly given to<br />

"Jacques" Renault, or Philip Francis Renault.<br />

This Man Called Renault<br />

A. popular version of the local history says Itthe l"1eramec<br />

Caverns were first discovered by Jacques Renault of Kaskaskia,<br />

Illinois in l716tt• Promotional literature distributed by the<br />

operators of the cavern has, for many years, perpetuated the<br />

Jacques Renault name. Floyd Shoemaker, a prominent Missouri<br />

historian, in referencing the caverns in 1943 amitted the name<br />

"Jacques" when refering to Renault's na in association<br />

with the caverns.<br />

C·" '.. ,J<br />

The name ttJacques" was common among the early lead<br />

miners of the Meramec Valley. Tradition seems to have confused<br />

the names.<br />

The Renault in question --the discoverer of Meramec <br />

Caverns -- was actually Philip Renault, a mineralogist, banker, <br />

silver prospector, lead miner and gupowder manufacturer of <br />

considerable note. <br />

Philip Renaultame into the Mississippi Valley in 1719 <br />

with OO mechanIcs, miners an labalers (som ot whi_re<br />

sIaves) to exo1t th ric lead and eRPpe resources of<br />

southeastern Missouri. He was active in=te earlybistory of<br />

Kaskaskia, Illinois and Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. He was<br />

initially attracted by rumors carried to France that Missouri<br />

mines and caves on the Meramec River contained gold and<br />

silver. Renault and his men mined lead in both the Meramc<br />

6


and Big River valleys bore 1732, made salt on Saline Creek,<br />

and established the first saltpetre minin unpowder<br />

making ope a lons in Mlssour a He t of the Miss ss pp.<br />

The actual discovery of Meramec Caverns by Renault<br />

occurred sometime during the early 1720's. It was not until<br />

1720 however, that Renault was sent into the Meramec Valley<br />

region by the Mississippi Company of Kaskaskia to exploit<br />

the lead deposits. !fHis route to the lead country was up<br />

the Meramec • • • " Renault left little of the valley unexamined.<br />

He claimed in 1725 that he was producing 1$00 pounds of lead<br />

a day. '!e "mines" were surface deposits that demanded no<br />

capitol and very little special skill. From this time on these<br />

min es were worked in Itdesultory fashion" by small groups from<br />

Kaskaskia.<br />

French rule in the valley declined in the late 1750's.<br />

By 1763 France has withdrawn from the mainland of North<br />

America. Spanish influence became prominent in the 1760's<br />

and it was at this time that Spaniards came into the region.<br />

Tradition says "In 1760, Don Serita Gonzales, with a party<br />

of Spanish miners, used the cave for a base of operations for<br />

lead mining in Missouri".<br />

Lead, red hematite, copper and barite is common in the<br />

Meramec Caverns locale. Copper and lead mining' occurred both<br />

north and south of the cave.<br />

South of the caverns a few hundred yards is the mouth of<br />

Copper Hollow, a deep valley about. one mile long which contains<br />

the obscured remains of an open-pit copper mine and<br />

smlter. The earliest diggings of the locale may have been<br />

here. Henry R. Schoolcraft, a geologist who visited the<br />

region of Meramec Caverns in 1819 reported that the lead mines<br />

of the area were operated before the year 1800.<br />

Copper was also found several miles north of te caverns<br />

and it is likely that the French and Spanish knew of these<br />

deposits also. These deposits more recently became known as<br />

the Stanton Copper Mines after John Stanton, a well known<br />

pioneer of the region. When copper mining was in progress<br />

during the 1700's, Meramec Caverns was ideally located for<br />

use as storage and shelter.<br />

The copper mines were eventually abandoned by both the<br />

French and Spanish but re-activated in the 1800ls by John<br />

Stanton. Stanton operated his mine for many years and a large<br />

amount of copper-was produced and hauled to.st. Louis in<br />

wagons. John S tanto • w th ha<br />

Stanton, Mo., the nearest c ommu1ty to Merc Cavenns<br />

(less than 3 miles), was originally known as Reedsville, a<br />

name it took from Silas Reed. Reed, a physician born in 1810,<br />

7<br />

\\


operated the copper mines in 1856. The name Reedsville was<br />

changed to Stanton Copper Mines in July of 1856, and then to<br />

Stanton in 1857. The town of Stanton, in the beginning<br />

years of the Civil War, was the largest population center<br />

in Franklin county and therefore created much activity in<br />

the vicinity of r-teramec Caverns.<br />

Gunpowder Making<br />

-<br />

Gunpowder and saltpetre mining was an<br />

manUfacturing<br />

industry associated with Meramec Caverns in the early years.<br />

The beginning of the enterprise probably came as early as<br />

1725 shortly after the cave's discovery, but it was not until<br />

1600's<br />

the early that the industry gained its real prominence.<br />

As earl newspa er article reported that "Fisher! e,<br />

ve<br />

pp ne ivan<br />

were famous oweer rom 1810 0<br />

Sullivan<br />

/' s about the same<br />

averns as is the<br />

tom of Stanton.<br />

It.<br />

The gunpowder making industry apparently flouriShed in<br />

three distinct periods at the cave: (I) the post revolutionary<br />

period, (2) the War of 1812, and (3) during the Civil War.<br />

Philip Renault initiated gunpowder making at Meramec<br />

Caverns and it was this enterprise that gave the cave its<br />

original name, Saltpeter Cave. It was renamed Meramec Caverns<br />

by Lester B. Dill in 1935 when the cave was first opened to<br />

the public. Goodspeed (1888) says "Saltpeter Cave is a<br />

large opening below Fisher's Cave. It is entered from near<br />

the river ••• Gunpowder was made in this cave at an early date."<br />

The gunpowder produced by Renault's men was crude but<br />

adequate. While the lions share of this product was for the<br />

use of Renault as his crews, there was also a ready market<br />

among the hunters and trappers. Same of the powder was also<br />

shipped to Kaskaskia, Illinois and Ste. Genevieve, Missouri.<br />

There were two routes: one, down the Meramec River-to the<br />

Mississippi River and then to Kaskaskia by boat, and two,<br />

overland along a rough, hazardous trail that struck south and<br />

east of the cave. Pack antmls and oarts, Which the Indians<br />

called barefoot wagons, carried the gupowder via lead and<br />

oopper mining sites along the headwaters of the Big River.<br />

The making of gunpowder at this period was seoondary to<br />

lead mining, however, a necessary element in the fight for<br />

survival in a new and hostile environment.<br />

The ingredients for main gunpowder were easily obtained.<br />

Saltpetre was quickly lixivated from the nitrate-rich 'earth<br />

found in the caves of the locale. Huge, plentiful maple trees<br />

in the Meramec Valley Basin provided excellent charcoal whioh<br />

readily ignited and created very little ash. And the sulphur<br />

was obtained as a byproduot of lead smelting, the principal<br />

industry of the valley. Breckenridge (1925) says "The lead<br />

ore of Missouri is principally pure galena and it is probable<br />

8<br />

'- j' ",


that from the year 1720 when Rena ult and La Motte opened and<br />

worked the lead mines in this region on a large scale and<br />

roasted the ores therefrom to eliminate the sulphur, they,<br />

as well as those who came after them, during the hundred<br />

years or more succeeding, make their own gunpowder, using<br />

the waste product sulphur in its manufacture ••• "<br />

The leaching of cave earth requires a plentiful water<br />

supply. There were two adequate sources at Meramec Caverns#<br />

one, the Meramec River which passes directly in front of<br />

the cave mouth, and two, a spring-fed stream about 800 feet<br />

back inside the ca ve.<br />

Vats for leaching were probably constructed of wood.<br />

Oak trees were plentiful to supply the right kind of lumber.<br />

The most suitable location for the leaching activity<br />

would have been in a large chamber about 300 to 400 feet inside<br />

the cave. Today, these chambers are known respectively<br />

as The Ballroand The Gunpowder R o om.<br />

Old ters say that remnnts of the vats were once to<br />

be seen in the cave but that social activities held in the<br />

cave by community groups before the turn of the century saw to<br />

the destruction and stealing of these valuable. old relics.<br />

A lack of re1'erences to saltpetre mining at the cave<br />

during the latter l700ts suggests that by 1760 the enterprise<br />

had laded into memory, but the War of 1812 created a great<br />

demand for gunpowder, it Is said, and this sparked a renewed<br />

effort to utiliEe the nitrate deposits in caves along the<br />

Meamc River. Once again saltpetre mining and powder making<br />

is believed to have begun at Meramec Caverns.<br />

By the year 1816 several gunpowder plants were in_operation<br />

in Missouri along the Gasconade, Mis souri and Meramec Rivers.<br />

General William H. Ashley was operating a ,powder plant at<br />

Potosi, Missouri at this time, and Augustus Chouteau was<br />

purchasing gunpowder for his Powder Magazine in st. Louis.<br />

Of this period Schoolcraft (1818) wrote tl Tbree saltpetre<br />

caves are worked in Washington county, Missouri territor7.<br />

It •<br />

They are situated on the Merrck {sic) •• Franklin county<br />

was eventually created from territory within Washington county.<br />

And, at this time, there was gunpowder making going on<br />

near Newport, now Dundee, at Molino, Youngs Mill and "Spring<br />

Creek Mills" north of stanton. ll of these were in the general<br />

region of Meramec Caverns. Other nearby caves reportedly<br />

supplying saltpetre for thes.4$powder mills include Copper Hollow<br />

Cave, Green's Cave, Bat Cave and Fisher's Cave.<br />

After the War of 1812 the price of gunpowder fell considerably<br />

and by 18)0 saltpetre mining at Meramec Caverns had,<br />

for a second time, faded into memory.<br />

9


The approach and outbreak of the Civil War gave altpetre<br />

mining its third and apparently final birth at 14eramec<br />

Caverns. According to legend, it was at this time also<br />

that violence and bloodshed first ent ered into the cave's<br />

long history.<br />

Civil<br />

War<br />

Modern day promotional literature has so embellished<br />

the his tory of the cave for this per iod of time that is not<br />

yet, and may never be possible to sift the facts from fiction.<br />

In the cave's commercial brochure (1971) it reads "Very<br />

lit tle exploration was do ne until 1862-1864, during the Civil<br />

War, when gunpowder manufacturing was at its height at the<br />

cave. The Union forces set up powder kilns and leaching vats<br />

in the cavern; as well as an underground railroad sta tion.<br />

Thousands of slaves found freedom via this roote.1t An earlier<br />

version by the cave's promoters (1955) simply states that<br />

It<br />

"The Union Army utilized the caverns as a gunpowder mill •• •<br />

It<br />

And in 1948 •••in the Civil War period • •• it was used as a<br />

gunpowder works •• • tt And even earlier (1942?) " Duing the<br />

Civil War a gun powder plant was established in the cavern<br />

but was abandoned after a portion of it blew up .t t<br />

The mining of saltpetre and productio n of gunpowder at,<br />

in or near Meramec Caverns is generally assured to have taken<br />

place before and during the Civil War. But thepe is question<br />

as to who conducted the enterprise. It would seem unlikely<br />

that the Union Army officially started the operation as the -<br />

above has suggested. Faust (1967) states that "There is no<br />

..<br />

known instance that the Federals, at any time, attempted to<br />

opera te any eave saltpetre recovery operation, even those<br />

captured from the Con federates.tt He further sta tes that liThe<br />

North seemed to evidence only destructive action toward such<br />

installations rather than recognition and utilization of' a<br />

valuable source of raw material.1f<br />

There is evidence, however, to suggest that at least<br />

Confederate sympathizers of' that area set up and maintained<br />

the operation at Heramec Caverns f'or a period of' tim, but<br />

more toward providing for their own protection than to supply<br />

Union or Confederate forces with gunpoWder.<br />

The presence of powder mills along the Heramec after<br />

1810 seems to be an e,stablished .fact, but a search o.f early<br />

records on Franklin count,., in which Meramec Caverns is<br />

located, reveals little information on this. Most sources<br />

o.f informtion published since the cave's cercial development<br />

have added no new inormation and Simply clouded the is sue.<br />

0<br />

And what about the slaves? The previousl y quoted source<br />

said, that thousands ou freedom by using the eave as a<br />

hideout. Whether or not the eave was actually a station of<br />

the Underground Railroad is unverified. It certainly could<br />

not have been during the first part o.f the war when Confederate<br />

sympathizers controlled the cave.<br />

10<br />

('.


When Missouri entered the Civil War it was a divided<br />

border state and it is int eresting to note that while<br />

Missouri, as a state, had a slavery percentage of only 9,,<br />

Franklin county had a slave population of more than 13%,<br />

this being a carry ov er from the time of French oc cupation<br />

in the l700ls when slavery was introduced to th e territory<br />

by Philip Renault.<br />

A number of prominent Franklin county residents were<br />

slave owners. The slaves served two purposes, as help in<br />

the lead and copper mines of the region, and as house servants.<br />

The slave servants were a mark of wealth and social<br />

standing.<br />

So the slave percentage was high in Franklin county and<br />

the use of same local rendezvous on the flight to freedom<br />

seems plausable. But thousands? When this item was added<br />

to the promotional material on the cave in the 40's the<br />

figue was hundredsl<br />

Just as the state of Missouri was divided, so was Franklin<br />

county. And it is in the records of this division that<br />

clues can be found which suggest sometll.ing abou t the powdlr<br />

mill at Meramec Caverns during the War.<br />

.<br />

The nearest communities to Mergmec Ca verns then and today<br />

are Stanton and Sullivan. It is generally belie ved that John<br />

S tanton, who operated the Stanton Copper Mines, was also<br />

operating the powder mill at Maramec Caverns at the approach<br />

and outbreak of the war. Rayburn (19.54) says that this powder<br />

.<br />

mill was established in the l8.50·s.<br />

< \<br />

Another individual believed to have been involved in<br />

the operation was Stephen Sullivan who founded the Sullivan<br />

community in 1858. In the 1860' s Meramec Caverns was situated<br />

about halfway between the homesteads of John Stanton and<br />

Stephen Sullivan. The Freemont Trail connected these two<br />

places and the entrance of Meramec Caverns cam within oak<br />

throwing distance of the trail.<br />

When the war arrived there were divided factions in<br />

Franklin county. Writes Bruce Catton (196.3) "Missouri was<br />

divided into factions and sub-i'actions, with almost everybody<br />

in the ata te • ••<br />

either making war or preparing to make war-­<br />

on his next-door neighbor, as of ten as not." Franklin county<br />

was no exception and the most notable confederate spathizers<br />

were Maupins, Stantons and Sulli vans. 6,000 Franklin county<br />

men eventually joined the Union forces but less than 700 fought<br />

for the Confederacy. However, the large slave holders at<br />

the county were in this minority. They controled the wealth<br />

and were also the same in dividuals historically associated<br />

with powder manufacturing in that region.<br />

11


It is suggested that John Stanton, ha v ing . established<br />

the powder mill operation before the war, was J o ined in this<br />

labor by Stephen Sullivan. They and their confederate helpers,<br />

however, were not strong enough to hold the gunpowder plant .<br />

By the end of 1862 federal patrols had immobilized most<br />

confederate sympathizers in Mis souri an d driven all but the<br />

more hardly guerrilla bands out of the sta te.<br />

('" ",'/<br />

It is interesting that a legend survives which says that<br />

Stephen Sullivan was execu ted by the Federal troops because<br />

he manufactured gunpowder for the Confederac y. This execution<br />

is generally believed to have taken place at Meramec Caverns .<br />

The Coming of General Sterling Price<br />

On September 30, 1864 General Sterling Price staged a<br />

raid in Franklin county. Sterling Price, who was the Governor<br />

of Misso uri fram 1853 to 1857, was an active political figure<br />

in Missouri before the war. The approach of the war however,<br />

changed Price frm a moderate compromiser into a militant<br />

pro-southerner. By March of 1862 Price had left the state<br />

to fight for the Confederacy. Although he won no accolades<br />

from the West Pointers in the Confederate Army, he was a hero<br />

to the Guerrillas and southern sympath izers wh o usually<br />

peopled his command.<br />

By 1863 and earl y 1864 when the Missouri Militia had<br />

the number<br />

dr iven most of the CSonfedera tes from the sta te,<br />

of Federal roops was consderably reduced in the state. It<br />

was at this time that Sterling Price staged a raid in Missou ri,<br />

hi s second and most no torious. He came into Missouri fram<br />

Arkansas through the southeast part of the state, defeated<br />

Federal troops at Pilot Knob, and moved into Franklin county<br />

where he stayed for four days while preparing to move on west<br />

and capture Jefferson City, a task he later failed at.<br />

, '<br />

Legend and promotional literatue for Meramec'Caverns<br />

has added Price I s raid to the history of the caverns. "In<br />

18, the Quantrill Irregulars, under the command of General<br />

Price, of the Confederate Army, captured the gu powder mill<br />

and plant," claims the cave's brochure. And, it was at this<br />

time, according to the same authors, that "Jesse James; Frank<br />

James, Frank Dalton, and the Younger Brothers were members<br />

of the dreaded Quantrill Irregulars, and thus became acquainted<br />

with the caverns."<br />

Quantrill's Irregulars<br />

-<br />

Sullivan was the rendezvous of the 63 Enrolled Missouri<br />

Militia and other military organizations in 1864.<br />

It was for<br />

this reason that Sterling Price spent considerable tim in<br />

the area. During his four day stay some 60 local men were<br />

killed by his troops and nearly $500,000 in personal<br />

property<br />

was destroyed. If Quantri ll and his Irregulars were among<br />

Price's 16,000 men at the time, it has not been brought to<br />

light.<br />

12.<br />

.:'<br />

l


And in regard to Jesse James and other Guerrillas wh o<br />

rode under Quantrill from time to te during the War, his<br />

presence among Price's men at the ttme of th e raid in<br />

Franklin county is also highly doubtful. William Connelley,<br />

an authority<br />

Border Wars,<br />

on Quantrill and auhor of luantrill and the<br />

lIs. "to'O"no<br />

says that Quan trill's Querr part<br />

whateverTi the invasi on of Missouri by Price" even though<br />

their original intentions were o do so.<br />

Jesse<br />

James<br />

From a few sparks , it would seem, has burned a mighty<br />

legend, a tale so nurtured by its tellers and mythmkers that<br />

it has become a classic. Even if there were no seeds of fact<br />

upon which the legend was sown, its magnitude is so great,<br />

that one cannot examine it under the cold light of day without<br />

being emotionally intrigued. Tens of thousands, perhaps<br />

millions of visitors to modern day Meramec Caverns accept<br />

the Meramec Caverns legend of Jesse James as fact)and whether<br />

tre or not, its popularity is undeniable. It is an interesting<br />

st.ory, amazingly contrived and beautifully told by those who<br />

guide visitors through the cave. This writer knows fram<br />

personal experience for he once guided at Meramec Caverns. And<br />

for %ndividuals who take pleasure in the richness of Amrican<br />

folklore, the truth fullness of the legend is unimportant.<br />

There is enough mule in th is Missouri writer to believe<br />

that Jesse James did indeed hide in numerous Missouri caves.<br />

Paul Weiman, a popular western his torIan, has done considerable<br />

research on the dynasty of outlaws that thrived in Missouri<br />

and the Ozarks between the years 1836 and 1936. His material<br />

pro ves that Missouri is so steeped in outlaw histo ry that<br />

it has frequently been rerered to as The Outlaw or Robber<br />

state. In recent years so many caves ha ve been discovered<br />

in Missouri that its favored nickname--The Showme State-- has<br />

almost been entirely usurped by The Cave state. A ..librarian<br />

for the Missouri state Historical SOCiety recently told this<br />

writer that she was happy that so many caves had been found.<br />

She was tired, she said, of hearing Missouri refered to as<br />

The Outlaw state.<br />

According to the promoters of Meramec Caverns, uIn the<br />

earl y 1870's he (Jesse James) and his band used the caverns<br />

on numerous occasions because it aff orded a complete hideout<br />

for men and horses. In 1874," they claim "after a train<br />

robbery at Gadshill, Missouri, the gan g was tracked to the<br />

caverns by a possej and after a seige of three days, they<br />

escaped by an unnown route which remai ned a mystery until<br />

the redisco very of this huge passage with its underground<br />

river in 1940 •••"<br />

The groundwork for this le gend was laid in the years<br />

1940-4 when the lowest level of the cavern along the Underground<br />

river was opened to the public. Documentation for<br />

the story has not been made available. News stories of that<br />

day, however, give an interesting picture.<br />

13


Prior to 1940 when th e underground river was<br />

concealed<br />

by a siphon pool toward the rear of the cavels so-called "second<br />

level" I the Jesse James legend was notably absent from news<br />

stories and promotional literature. (The cave was opened to<br />

the public in 1935 and showed levels two,three,four and five<br />

The story of how<br />

this siphon pool was breached was told by J Harlan Bretz in<br />

The Caves of Missouri (1956). In his account he states that<br />

prior to 1'9 "the lowest level had been entered by another<br />

and very difficult route" which was along the course the<br />

river takes to its resurgence along the cave bluff a tew yards<br />

down valley from Meramects huge opening. Contrary to news<br />

releases, the Underground River section was not a new discovery<br />

in 1941 when Bretz helped force the siphon. And, in<br />

the pre-194l , Paul Bunyan and Pecos Pete yarns were the<br />

stories of the day; but with the advent of Jesse James,Pau1<br />

and Pete went to their literary demise having been shot down<br />

by a more notorious character.<br />

and was promoted as a 4-story wonder cave.)<br />

In July, of 1941 a Berwyn, Illinois news story on Jesse<br />

James said ' • • •Even impossible stories are now being circulated<br />

about the Hero of our boyhood. In one two-gun-bang-bang<br />

story he rides full tilt into a cave whose biggest and only<br />

opening·is about half big enough to accomodate a fair sized<br />

rabbit. And speaking of cave entrances brings our story of<br />

Jesse to the entrance of Meramec Caverns at Stanton, Missouri.<br />

Jesse used the cave and with good reason. His little band<br />

could really lope through its entrance. In fact they could<br />

ride back into the cave for almost a quarter of a mile. Once<br />

inside they were safe for they knew the cave • • • Probably some<br />

of the loot is still in Meramec Caverns -- perhaps mouldering<br />

there in same rocky recess... Could be that time will bring<br />

to light a saddle or a gun or a hat that Jesse took inside<br />

and left as a souvenir of his visit ••• "<br />

r<br />

C·' .,.;<br />

Gathering no dust, the story was repeated and the<br />

suggestions were well taken. In November of 1941 a story<br />

in the Watchman Advocate tells about a visitor to Meramec<br />

Caverns who "explained that he wanted to find and take home<br />

the hat Jesse James had lef't hanging on the "Capitol Domen<br />

(a large stalagmite on the 4th floor). Shortly thereafter<br />

a humorous article about a group of Navajo Indians that had<br />

visited the cave states that one of the Indians "spent most<br />

of' his time looking f'or the gun Jesse James is supposed to<br />

have lef't in the cave."<br />

The f'irst big news releases in the early part of 1942<br />

on the discovery and opening of the Underground River section<br />

made very little mention of Jesse James but by years end the<br />

cat was out of' the bag.<br />

A fistfull of relics had turned up.<br />

About 21 of' them in al,l. The St.Louis Post-Dispatch said<br />

"Jesse James J MissouriS own number 1 bad "man, Is sala to have<br />

used the cave as a<br />

into which horses could be l:un<br />

hideout because it was the only place<br />

at a full gallop_ He is<br />


thought to have taken refuge here aft er one of his faroUS<br />

train robberies whither he was tracked by a posse. After a<br />

three day seige he escaped through one of the lit tle kn wn<br />

passageways which has recen tly been discovered • • • II<br />

A po int of fact.<br />

There was a train rob bery by the James<br />

gang at Gads Hill, Missouri in 1874. On the morning of Jan.<br />

31, 1874 the James gang captured the small whi stles top of<br />

a town and rob bed the incoming Iro n Mountain Express . And<br />

like the man who has made a fortune off of th e legend of<br />

Jesse James--Dill--Jesse himsel f Was a sh owmn. The robbery<br />

netted onl y $2,000 in loot but Jesse handed the train 1 s<br />

engineer a press release on the robbery for the benefit of<br />

news reporters I<br />

Gads Hill is located 75 miles south and east of Meramc<br />

Caverns as the crow flies and in 1874 it was a rough trip<br />

between the two points unless one took the better trails<br />

and roads. The qU1Istion is, did Jesse? Wh t hap pened after<br />

the robbery seems to be everyone guess.<br />

In 1961 Lester B. Dill, Missou ri's own Number One Cavemn<br />

(the P.T.Barnum of the Cave World and the Gimmick Man of<br />

the Underground» )<br />

and the promoter or Meramc Caverns.wae<br />

quot ed in a nationwide news story on the particulars involving<br />

the' discover l of the underground river and its reputed "Jesse<br />

James relics t . Said Mr. Dill "we found the strongbox, the<br />

lock and old guns there (meaning around Loot Rock where the<br />

story comes to a climax for Visitors), when we dug through.<br />

The lock (on the stron gbox) was traced to the Denver and<br />

Missouri Company, robbed by the James gang in 1874. The cave<br />

was raided by Q.uantrill' s Raiders, Rebel marauders who<br />

numbered the James boys among them .<br />

"From. this room, we discovered the undergrond ri1[er •••<br />

then we uncovered the incident of,)the James boys beng<br />

trapped in the cave after a robbery in 1874. Whn the posse<br />

entered the cave atter three days of seige, Jesse and Frank<br />

were gone and all that was left were the horses and empt y<br />

strong box.1t<br />

Dill also stated that the gang had escaped by wadiii<br />

and sw1mming the underground river to its exit 'a balf-mile<br />

away trom,the "room".<br />

It's another one of those stories of which came first,<br />

the chicken or the eggS But so successfully has Dill sold<br />

his story to the public that in 1969 a survey reportedly<br />

taken at the cave, showed that 9 out of 10 tourists vi sit<br />

Meramec Caverns because of Jesse James. Dill was quoted as<br />

saying t t lf it wasn.t for Jesse, my cave woul d be just another<br />

.<br />

100,000,000-year-old hole-in-the-ground. It<br />

(end of Part 1)<br />

15


REPRINT<br />

_<br />

SECTION:<br />

FIELD<br />

INVESTIGATION REPORT<br />

NEFF'S CANYON CAVE<br />

Wasatch <strong>National</strong> Forest<br />

(near Salt Lake :City, Uth)<br />

Investigation by<br />

<strong>National</strong> Park Service<br />

Region Three Personnel<br />

SepteIlber 1951<br />

Investigating Party:<br />

ThOIlas A. Walker, Superintendent, Timpanogos Cave<br />

<strong>National</strong> MonuIlent<br />

Lee Walker<br />

R. Taylor Hoskins, Superintendent, Carlsbad Caverns<br />

<strong>National</strong> Park<br />

M. V. Walker, Park Naturalist, Zion <strong>National</strong> Park<br />

James B. Felton, Chief Ranger, Zion <strong>National</strong> Park<br />

Grant Clark, seasonal ranger, Zion <strong>National</strong> Park<br />

Harold A. Marsh, Lands cape Architect, Region Three Office<br />

John E. Kellg Park Planner, Region Three Office.<br />

(oIlitted<br />

illustrations)<br />

Photography and sketches<br />

by John E.· Kell<br />

rl<br />

V<br />

Photo No. 1 - Packing gear on hoI's e for trip to cave.<br />

Photo No. 2 - Much of the trail to Neff's Cave is through dense oak<br />

brush.<br />

Photo No. 3 - Harold Marsh wading through underbrush near top<br />

of ridge. Cave entrance is over crest of r-idge and slightly<br />

downgrade froIl this point.<br />

Photo No. 4.- General view at Cave entrance. Cave follows this<br />

fracture line. Apparent entrance in foreground choked with<br />

rock .. actual entrance through sIlal l holes at ItA" or "B".<br />

Photo No. 5 ... General view inside Cave. Floor and opening continue<br />

about 15 feet below rocks in foreground.<br />

Sketch showing relationship of Cave to photo above. <br />

Plate til .. Location Ilap. <br />

Plate ti2 - DiagraIlIlatic geologic section <br />

Plate 113 ... DiagraIlIlatic sketch, Neff's Canyon Cave.<br />

Plate ti4 ... Typical sctions, Neffls Canyon Cave.<br />

16<br />

c:·


SUMMARY<br />

Investigations of Nef£ls Canyon Cave <br />

September 17 & 18.<br />

1951 <br />

Location<br />

NeHls Canyon Cave, sometimes called Mt. Olympus Cave, is located in<br />

the Wasatch <strong>National</strong> Forest roughly three miles south and five miles<br />

east of the city limits of Salt Lake City.<br />

Investigation<br />

Monday, September 17, was spent with Forest Service officials and<br />

participating in interviews with representatives of the Geology Department,<br />

University of Utah, and others. Most of the investigating<br />

group, accompanied by Forest Ranger Gardner, went to the Gave, marked<br />

a trail and went inside for a short distance. The actual investigation<br />

was made by the entire group on Tuesday, September 18. The party entered<br />

the cave at 11:10 a. m. and carne out about 3:30 p. m.<br />

NeHls Cave<br />

This is a tent-shaped, or inverted "V"-shaped, cave.<br />

about 550 to 600 feet<br />

onlY'Lee,Walker could worm. his way through. , (Editor's note:,,'The Nar­<br />

rows: just beyond the' Double. Pit Room.)<br />

this opening,<br />

about 3:30 p. m.<br />

It changes in<br />

base and height from narrow craw1ways to spots where he base of the<br />

tringle is, perhaps, twelve feet wide with a ceil ing of as much as twentyfive<br />

feet.<br />

The angle is quite steep - estimated to be 45 degrees with<br />

dropoffs of three to thirty feet at varying intervals, making the overall<br />

angle of descent about 60 degrees.<br />

The floor 'is covered with loose rocks<br />

which make inspection dangerou\s. In addition,. the cave is wet and the<br />

rocks are slick, offering, at times, little or no foothold. Vie made the<br />

trip in and out by feeding rope along through the opening and calling<br />

back and forth through the passage asking that the rope be made fast<br />

when it was necessary to use .it to negociate ledges. " The- party stopped<br />

underground where the-.passage was so narrow that<br />

in,what we had seen up to that point.<br />

He;: reported no maJor change<br />

Since.we ·could go no further, plus<br />

the fact that it would have been impossible to get an injured person through<br />

we recalled.Lee Walker, had lunch and returned to the surface<br />

Conclusions<br />

The cave does not have any qualities that are of national iri:lportance . and<br />

we did not discover any portion of the cave that would have an economic<br />

value! as a tourist attraction for Salt Lake City and vicinity. It is dangerand<br />

continued exploration by persons small enough to negociate the<br />

ous,<br />

openings is inviting eventual tragedy. Further explorations should be<br />

discouraged.<br />

17


REPORT OF INVESTIGATION<br />

Following instructions received from the Washington office through<br />

the Regional Director, an investigation was made of Neffls Canyon<br />

Cave near Salt Lake City Utah. The names of those making the<br />

investigation are listed at the beginning of this report.<br />

V( ith the exception of Thomas Walker and his son, Lee, the group<br />

arrived in Salt Lake City, Utah, Sunday, September 16. Monday was<br />

spent in obtaining additional information about the cave.<br />

Since the<br />

cave was located inside the boundaries of Wasat ch <strong>National</strong> Forest,<br />

the group called at the office of Forest Supervisor F. C <br />

the morning of September 17,<br />

he had in his files <br />

Koziol on<br />

Mr. Koziol gave us what information<br />

reviewed the background of other investigations<br />

and suggested the names of two young men living in Salt Lake City<br />

who were anxious to go along as guides.<br />

One of these men expected<br />

to be hired as a guide, the second was willing to go along for the<br />

experience.<br />

We suggested to Mr. Koziol that he refrain from alerting<br />

these men until our plans were more complete and the group later decided<br />

that because of the risks involved tegether with the fact that one<br />

of the boys was only seventeen years of age, it would not be advisable<br />

to take either of the young men along.<br />

Mr. Koziol introduced the group to Ranger Robert W. Gardner and he<br />

assisted with maps and also in locating the entrance to the cave.<br />

After the conference in Forest Supervisor Koziol's office, the party<br />

split into thee groups. Superintendent Thomas Walker, Mr. Felton<br />

and Mr. Clark went with Ranger Gardner to locate a trail or way to<br />

the cave.<br />

o<br />

Superintendent Hoskins and Myrl Walker went to the University of Utah<br />

where they talked to Dr. Ray E. Marsell (two years later a charter<br />

member of the Salt Lake Grotto of the <strong>National</strong> <strong>Speleological</strong> <strong>Society</strong> ­<br />

editor's note) and Dr. F .. W .. Christiansen of the Department of Geology.<br />

Mr. Marsh and I went to interview Mr. CharlesH. Malmborg.<br />

Mr.<br />

Malmborg is an amateur geologist and a baker by trade. He is currently<br />

employed by the Holsum Bakery and he had prepared the report from<br />

his knowledge of geology and from interviews from students who had<br />

been inside the cave.<br />

Through telephone conversation with the boyrs<br />

mother I learned that the boy suggested by Mr. Koziol was now in the<br />

Army and that his brother, who had made several trips inside and who<br />

would be willing to go along, was only seventeen.<br />

All of the interviews were completed Monday afternoon and the groups<br />

returned to the Newhouse Hotel to complete plans for the investigation.<br />

Because of. the age of the boys suggested as gui des, together with employment<br />

difficulties, we decided against employing anyone as guide.<br />

with the help of Ranger Gardner a trail had been located leading to the<br />

cave entrance, and Superintendent Tom Walker had gone inside for a<br />

short distance. He advis ed that in order to make any kind of an : inves _<br />

tigation we would need additional rope. We purchased a 12 GO-foot coil<br />

of rope and agreed to be ready to start Tuesday morning at 7:00 a. m.<br />

Tom Walker was to secure a pack animal and meet us at the Forest Service<br />

boundary, 18<br />

C"'li<br />

v<br />

o<br />

"'


( . \<br />

We met as agreed on Tuesday morning. September 18, and were able to<br />

drive the pickup to the end of a trail about a mil e or a mile and a half up<br />

Neffls Ccnyon.<br />

At this point we packed the horse with rope and other<br />

equipment and started up the trail.<br />

The advance party reported that<br />

the easiest way to reach the cave was to take the Forest Service trail<br />

up Neffls Canyon almost to the spring, top-over the ridge to the bottom<br />

of a small tributary canyon where the actual ent ranee to Neff's cave is<br />

located.<br />

Because of dense undergrowth more than waist high, it was<br />

necessary to brush out a temporary trail to get the pack animal to the<br />

cave entrance.<br />

We arrived about 10:30, having consumed a little more<br />

than an hour and a half frem the time we left the pickup_<br />

Flashlights,<br />

food and other gear were assembled and we uncoiled the rope and entered<br />

the cave at 11:10 ao.<br />

c:<br />

Superintendent Tom Walker, his son Lee; Taylor Hoskins, and Myrl<br />

Walker entered first. The entrance and many of the passages had to<br />

be negociated feet-first. I followed Myrl Walker and Har-oldMarsh care<br />

behird me. Chief Ranger Felton and Grant Clark stayed on top to feed<br />

rope and equipment into the cave as needed. The cae turned out to be a<br />

fissure, tent-shaped or like an inverted "VII<br />

. The base and height<br />

varied from narrow crawlways to spots about 12. feet wide and with heights<br />

estimated to be 2.5 feet. The floor went downward. at an angle of almost<br />

45 degrees. This general downward incline was punctuated with drop­<br />

·o££s of three to thirty feet making the overall downward' angle of descent<br />

average about 60 degrees. The floor was covered with loose rock. It<br />

seemed that the greatest concentration of rock was at the break:in elevation.<br />

It was difficult to negociate these jump -o££s without causing<br />

rocks to diSlodge. In many places rocks had bridged across the ceiling<br />

and in other places rocks three to 12. inches thick remained suspended<br />

overhead at the apex of the inverted "V". Cracks from .one to several<br />

inches wide and too deep to be probed-_by a flashlight beam gave the<br />

"suspended" feeling (see Fig. 3, plate 4). Except for the crawlways<br />

a person could stand erect but in the major port ion of the cave both<br />

walls could be touched by extending both arms. " W edid not find-any<br />

formations of importance or any side passage. The inverted uV" shape<br />

remained throughout with only the base and height changing.<br />

At diff-­<br />

erent horizons along the w'a1ls there were tooth-like formations projecting<br />

from the walls that skinned fingers and snagged clothes.<br />

A bout 12.:30 p. m. and a distance of 550 to 6()0 feet underground we<br />

reached a point wher.e the passage narrowed to.an ellipse-shaped tube<br />

with the long axis up,and down.<br />

able to get through this passage.<br />

Lee Walker was the only one who was<br />

He took a lighted lantern to test the<br />

air and went through the passage. He reported that the cave opened<br />

up again, but there were no large rooms or formations different than<br />

those seen up to this pOint.<br />

Since the rest of the party could not get<br />

beyond this point1 coupled with tlie fact that it would have been impossible<br />

to give any assistance in case of injury,- Lee was recalled.<br />

We ,ate<br />

lunch at this point which was as large as any spot dis covered along the<br />

way. The walls of the cave are damp. Water drips at many spots but<br />

we did not see evidence of any growth under the drip-points. Thefloor<br />

of the cave has the apparance of a stream bed and during the spring<br />

runoff, large quantities of water find their way underground through this<br />

19


.<br />

passage. The temperature in the cave is estimated to be about 40 degrees.<br />

The party reached the surface about 3:30 p, m. and we were back in Salt<br />

Lake City by 7:00 p- m.<br />

J<br />

.<br />

It is possible that the fissure extends for several feet or perhaps miles.<br />

It is reported that the boys have reached a point several hundred feet<br />

beyond the point our party reached.<br />

One report is that the place opens<br />

to a large room with high ceilings and a "jump-off where it takes a rock<br />

four seconds to hit bottom."<br />

Such stories lead to speculation about<br />

large rooms or other openings, and a hope of some individuals that the<br />

cave may have some economic importance, Dr. RyE, Marsell, Department<br />

of Geology, University of Utah, has conducted studies with the<br />

State Engineer:s Office and they are convinced t hat the water from Neffls<br />

Cave reappears as the Holliday Springs,<br />

Myrl Walker has written USp<br />

lIThe site known as INeff's Cavel is located near the top of a steep canyon<br />

some distance above Holliday and . near the peak known as Mt. Olympus.<br />

The rock formations all dip very steeply toward the wests being upturned<br />

along the edge of the well known Wasatch fault. The cave, which<br />

is not a solution feature, but rather merely a fissure due to earth movement'<br />

is located in some thin-bedded limestones and shales (Ophir formation?)<br />

which rests on the so-called (Tintic quartzite). The fissure<br />

descends at something like 60 degrees, and is filled and wedged with<br />

many rounded boulders of quartzite. This makes the descent into the<br />

fis sure very difficult and hazardous. Many of these rounded quartzi.te O",l<br />

boulders become loosene d and constitute an ever present hazard, In so<br />

far as could be determined; there is no evidence of the development of<br />

cave formation due to deposition of lime in any form on the roof or cave<br />

walls. There do not appear to be any unique features associated with<br />

the fissure,"<br />

and, . Mr. Hoskins has reported $<br />

"On Septenber 18, we started the investigation, entering the cave at 11:10<br />

a. m., and emerging about 3:30 p. m. The investigation revealed that<br />

this cave was formed by a fault located in quart zite formation with a<br />

very small entrance.<br />

There was only one passageway which resembled<br />

an inverted IIVII, varying in size from a narrow craw1way to a width of<br />

a few feet to twelve feet and the height varying from a few feet tO,as<br />

much as 2 5£eet in one location.<br />

stream bed and silt was noted on the walls.<br />

rock and boulders are located on the floor.<br />

The floor 'of this cave appeared to be a<br />

Many large and small loose<br />

The cei ling in many places<br />

looked none too stable as there were visible many cracks and huge stones<br />

which looked none too secure.<br />

The temperature in this cave appeared to<br />

be some lower than Timpanogos which is 41 degrees and in addition the<br />

cave is very wet.<br />

Only a few formations were observed, the larger being<br />

about 4 to 6 inches long and about the size of a pencil.<br />

The passageway<br />

is on a very steep grade which I judge to be about 60 per cent which makes<br />

it very difficult to traverse.<br />

¥<br />

20 C',


(<br />

{lIn conclusion, it is my candid opinion this cave has no scenic val. ue,<br />

will not by any stretch of the imagination meet <strong>National</strong> Park Service<br />

standards, and is without a doubt the most hazardous cave I have seen.<br />

If it were in a <strong>National</strong> Park Service area, I would recon1n1end that<br />

the entrance be blasted so no one could possibly gain entrance to it.<br />

The inscription above the entrance "Foolls Cave" is a justifiable<br />

des cription ...<br />

There are attached as a part of this report n1aps, sketches. and<br />

photographs of the cave area. All those who entered the cave agreed<br />

that it is dangerous and that there is little evidence to support the<br />

belief that it has any economic value as a tourist attraction.<br />

Approved for distribution:<br />

M.,R. Tillotson<br />

October 31$ 1951.<br />

John E. Kell<br />

Park Planner<br />

* * * *<br />

Editorts note: the report referred to on page l8 prepared by Charles<br />

Maln1borg. was printed in the Decen1ber, 1950 N"S"S. :tews. Other<br />

concepts of the geology and speleogenesis of Neff Canyon Cave appear<br />

especially in the Salt Lake Grotto Technical Not e seriesJ beginning with<br />

its TNstH and 5 (January, 1954). The following is another significant<br />

unpublished report on the early explorations of this, the deepest known<br />

cave in the United States.<br />

August 7. 1951.<br />

The accon1panying sketch bears a date -of<br />

* * * *<br />

"Report of Jack,Eh1ers on Mt. 01yn1pus(Neffts -Canyon) Cave with comn1ents<br />

on'Maln1borg report"<br />

, <br />

.. --<br />

John:Lyon, Jan1es:Lyon._ Jerry Dahlberg, Dick :Maxiie1d, and.Roland<br />

Baxter were with n1e when we entered the cave.onJuly2.9,,1950 • . We<br />

were equipped with three changes of flashlight batteries and 2.40 feet of<br />

3/4 inch n1anila hen1p rope. W e also had an equal an1 0 unt of very light<br />

clothesline rope .. _ We each wore two pair 'of levis and two flannel shirts.<br />

The ten1perature in the cave ren1ains at about 40 0 and we needed1:he<br />

extra clothes for'warn1th.<br />

Before entering the cave, we checked our equipn1ent to n1ake sure that<br />

our haver sacks were secure.<br />

None of us know what we would find that<br />

day but in our group prayer we asked that we would receive the necessary<br />

protection during our adventure. We weref of course, all very excited,<br />

and we didn't find tin1e to worry about a coffee pot or eating anything but<br />

a few raisins.<br />

. '<br />

.. './ ("<br />

The cave has a sn1all entrance directly in the surface of the ground. It<br />

drops vertically for ten to twelve feet but there is strata on which one<br />

can lower hin1self. There is a flat on which to land and then the cave<br />

2.1


egins its descent on a 450 angle; of course there are many variations 0<br />

Undoubtedly Mr. Malmborgls party never l:eached the place where the<br />

boys were stranded if they were only 2,000 feet in the cave. We used<br />

50 feet of rope to get down the 100 foot drop they speak about, The lardrop<br />

they speak about (The Great Pit - W, R,H.) is some ZOO feet high.<br />

We had ten feet to spare on our 290 foot piece of rope when we reached<br />

the bottom of this drop. It is here where the boys who were stranded in<br />

their last trip stayed until rescue came.<br />

I may state too, that none of the Deputy Sheriffs or other rescue personnel<br />

entered the cave to rescue the boys. James Lyon, the brother of one of<br />

the boys stranded in t:he cave, entered the cave by himself and helped<br />

the boys from the bottom of the long drop. On our last espedition, we<br />

left Jerry Dahlberg$ Dick Maxfield and Ronald Bxter at the top of this<br />

drop in order to pull uS up some four hours later, We were in the cave<br />

for more than nine hours and we estimated our distance in to be about<br />

two miles. I will draw a graph of the cave; I can explain it better this<br />

way than in words .. (Editor1s note his sketch is readily identifiable,<br />

showing clearly that the party left a tin can regi ster at about -825 feet;<br />

the top of the pit entering the Big Room)"<br />

The boys at the top of the large drop (The Great Pit) let our 3/4 inch rope<br />

down to us on the clothes line rope and we then reused it on the last two<br />

drops we descended.<br />

On our return the boys pulled up the 3/4 inch rope<br />

on the clothesline rope and secured it at the top.<br />

up the large drop one by one.<br />

Then we were pulled<br />

When we again saw day light. we were very<br />

tired but we had no cuts nor bruises nor were the hours spent so "tortuous"<br />

that we didnt enjoy every minute of our experience.<br />

Strong clothes<br />

must be worn however. , , (<br />

After conversing with Armand Ea rdly at the Department of Geology at the<br />

University of Utah, I am sure that under these black limestone deposits<br />

lie the treasure which we are seeking {understood in Salt Lake City to<br />

have been another Timpanogos Cave - W cRoHo}<br />

fresh air proves another entrance.<br />

The constant breeze of<br />

There is another cave in Neffs canyon<br />

where it boxes off. Mr. E.,G, Erickson has been in this cave ana he claims<br />

that even though he was only in 650 feet, the cave was some ·30 feet high and<br />

ZO feet wide and that the icicles were profuse both from the ceiling and<br />

floor. He had specimens of the formations. He wouldn It take me to the<br />

place because of physical inability but he descri bed it as being several<br />

hundred feet up the south side of Neffs canyon a few hundred feet before it<br />

boxes off.<br />

C· ';"11"<br />

After reading Mr. Malmborg1s report of theMt. Olympus cave, it appears<br />

that he has approached this with a negative attitude. Perhaps this is due to<br />

his inability to enter the cave; I was abl e to enter the cave with ease.<br />

The new cave is in this side of the drop (sketch omitted).<br />

It consists of a<br />

very narrow slit in the North side of this little drop in the mountain.<br />

mountain looks flat from the bottom of the canyon., This little draw only<br />

runs for a short distance. I have gone in search of this cave once but it<br />

was raining very hard and I didn!t have time to make a complete search.<br />

The spring runoffs made exploration di£ficu.lt also. This is merely a report<br />

as I know it. I will not recommend action either way. For myself. I am not<br />

C,<br />

satisfied to leave exploration without giving it a fair chance. I really believe<br />

t here is something here.<br />

ZZ<br />

The<br />

1 • .."


WHAT CAVE IS THIS? DEPART1v:ENT<br />

(Our compliments to R ane Curl for extending the idea to unidentified <br />

cave postcards in the NcSnS., News!)<br />

LIVINGSTON FINDS NEW CAVERNS: SURPASS<br />

BEAUTIES OF<br />

CARLSBAD<br />

Carlsbad, N" M" March 2. 7 (UP). ,-- The dis covery of three amazing<br />

caverns of the Guadalupe mountains, containing monstrous stalagmites<br />

surpassing in beauty those found in Carlsbad cavern, were reported<br />

today by Carl Livingston, explorer and authority on the cave country of<br />

the prehistoric southwest.<br />

The first of the three new caverns, lying in a nameless canyon to the<br />

east of Gunsight canyon and situated about 45 miles southwest of Carlsbad,<br />

contains 12. gigantic stalagmites.<br />

Livingston, who recently discovered an American "valley of the kings"<br />

south of here, said any one of these limestone formations was taller<br />

than those in Carlsbad cavern, declared by geol ogists to be one of<br />

America's greatest scenic wonders.<br />

The explorer said the stalagmites stand in an arched room 300 feet high.<br />

He described the room as perfectly formed as the nave or Notre Dame<br />

cathedral of Paris.<br />

0'")'<br />

. <br />

. '<br />

!..- .-<br />

; The mountainside opening to this underground labyrinth, which has been<br />

naredLivingston cavern, is large enough to drive four locomotives <br />

through, the explorer said. <br />

He said the temperature of the cave is 46 degrees in all seasons.<br />

Herds. of strl1Y angora goats, remnants of the vast herds imported to<br />

the southwest many years ago, roam through the high chambers of the<br />

underground palace ,and peer down upon the expl orers from a lofty bal­<br />

. cony that encircles the spacious room more thanlOO feet above the floor.<br />

' . .<br />

The expedition also found a strange species of whistling birds in the cavern.<br />

Disturbed for the first time in perhaps hundreds of years, Livingston said<br />

the birds shrieked queerly upon seeing the party.<br />

He described them as being about the size of a robin and with a call unlike<br />

any unknown onthogical (sic) species. They are difficult to catch, Livingston<br />

said, because they hide in crannies beyond reach when not swooping<br />

about the cave.<br />

--- unidentified, undated clipping in El Paso Public Library files.<br />

2.3


COLLOQUY<br />

Chuck Pease sends the following to be reprinted from Tri-state Trader,<br />

23 December 1972, reprinted there from Popular Science Monthly, 1896<br />

(doesntt say what issue):<br />

tlThrough the accidental discovery: in the electric furnace, of carbide of<br />

calcium, there has appeared (in 1896) a new lighting gas, acetylene. Up<br />

to this time the gas (C2H2) had been simply a laboratory product, discovered<br />

by Davy in 1836. It was found;. however that when calcium carbide<br />

a peculiar spongy material, was plunged into water, acetylene was given<br />

off in abundance. It burns with a steady snow-white flame of great brilliancy<br />

and high candle power.<br />

"M, Trouvre, says La Nature, has recently invented a practica11 1aInp<br />

for generating and burning acetylene. The reservoir of the lamp is of<br />

glass and contains a metallic box in which is placed the calcium carbide,<br />

The box is connected with a stopcock, leading to a sInall glass burner<br />

which projects froIn the top of the reservoir, and is So arranged that as<br />

the water in the reservoir is allowed to enter and act on the calciuIn<br />

carbide, acetylene is generated and passes out to the burner where it Inay<br />

be ignited. The admission of water to the calciuIn carbide has to be<br />

carefully regulated, so as not to cause a too rapid evolution of the gas.<br />

The laInp reseInbles an ordinary drop 1aInp in appearance, and Inay be<br />

Inade in a variety of forIns lending itself readily to decorative purposes. II<br />

* * * *<br />

Jack Speece (R.D. 4,· Lewistown, Panna, 17044 - box 352) is still working<br />

on a list of all caver newsletters published in the United States. He is<br />

looking for copies of Caves of California, Caves of AlabaIna, and Caves of<br />

Ohio. Also cOInInercial cave folders, a special ty of his.<br />

o<br />

I need Caves of Ohio Inyself!<br />

He has sent a nice tabulation of eight iInportant historical reprints in<br />

SpeleotheInes, newsletter of the Northern New Jersey Grotto of the N"S.S ...<br />

Will try to run theIn as space perInits. Sept. 1965, for exaInple, contains<br />

the 1905 Cook survey of liInestone caves of eastern NY.<br />

* * * *<br />

McClain Publishing COInpany, Parsons" W. Va. 26287, is selling its<br />

reprint of Hu Maxwell:s History of Randolph County (W. Va.) for$15" 00.<br />

Other iInportant items also - send for their list.<br />

.. * * *<br />

Ross Eckler long ago sent several iInportant iteIns, including:<br />

"Mammoth Cave in Indiana. - A great InaInInoth cave has been discovered<br />

seven Iniles north of Leaveenworth, Indiana. -- A party of men at first<br />

discovered a cavern or room large enough for a Inan to enter, and deter-<br />

Inined to e:xplore it. The New Albany Ledger says: They found that this<br />

rOOIn opened into others, and these into others still, and that apparently<br />

24<br />

'.<br />

C.. \


there was no termination to this cave. They fol lowed the main passage <br />

some four or five miles, according to their best calculations, when <br />

they were admonished by their lights that they must return. On their <br />

way back they visited some of the rooms which they had passed, in <br />

which were found large beds of epsom salts in nearly a pure state. <br />

We are also informed that the cave contains fine specimens of salt­<br />

petre, plaster of paris, alabaster, &:c, of which the party procured <br />

many fine specimens. We can now say to our sister state of Kentucky <br />

that Indiana has a cavern which far surpasses the Great Mammoth, as <br />

the last discovery in connection with the great Indiana cave, will make <br />

it one of the largest in the United States. " <br />

* * * *<br />

Lots of spelean history material in newsletters all over the country that<br />

should have been mentioned in these pages long ago. Please send in items<br />

that come to your attention. Example: July 1970 Missouri Speleology,<br />

with an article by the Rotherts giving further information on "Historic<br />

caves of St. Louis, Missouri." And one by our glorious preSident,<br />

liThe descent of the Cave of Gonzaga de Vendenza" in the·October l972<br />

COG Squeaks, reporting that IIGonzaga de Vendenza, a lieutenant of<br />

Coronado's, was supposed to have found the cave in l538 and carved a<br />

bust of Queen Isabella in one of the stalagmites. I didn1t see such a bust<br />

and tend to believe the whle story is cock and bull." So is this name for<br />

the cave. AnyBody who has caved more than a coupla days in the Guadalupes<br />

in recent years will recognize John's description as Cave of the<br />

madonna, with even the location described in western grotto newsletters.<br />

* * * *<br />

In his book on· Wyandotte Cave, Stelle mentions having had articles pub­<br />

lished in.Waverly Magazine .. George Jackson is working On a bibliography <br />

of Wyandotte. If some eastern library .. searchers could take a few m-inutes<br />

to run these down, .it would be very helpful. Please send me a copy, too.<br />

* * * *<br />

HQvey similarly mentioned having sold articles to the- Hampshire Gazette,<br />

. which' I assume is a northeastern newspaper. Good hunting!<br />

* * * *<br />

·NEEDED .. - AN;INEX for Volumes One through Five.<br />

volunteer.<br />

Volunteers please<br />

* * * *<br />

ASHA member Tony Oldham has a new book or booklet publi shed: Caves of<br />

Devon. No information yet. Address: 17 Freemantle Road,. Eastville,<br />

Bristol, BSS6SY, .England.<br />

2.5

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