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eakthroughs
Science News from P&G Beauty & Grooming VOL. XVIII
WHAT’S INSIDE
2 MOISTURE BREAKTHROUGH:
IT’S MORE THAN JUST WATER
Understanding women’s hair
texture needs
3 STRANGELY BEAUTIFUL
The fibers of face masks
3 MYTHS & FACTS
Truth about shaving
3 LAB NOTES
Antiperspirant efficacy
4 IN THE SPOTLIGHT
Research Fellow Graham Simms
P&G Perfumer Awards
DID YOU KNOW?
P&G Beauty & Grooming makes
sustainability a core consideration
of every initiative. In fact, Olay ®
Total Effects, Olay’s highest selling
line of anti-aging and moisturizing
products, sold in more than 50
countries around the world, has
reduced the plastic in its pump to
save 800,000 pounds of plastic per
year, equivalent to the weight of
a Boeing 747.
SCIENTISTS CROSS NEW THRESHOLD IN SHAVING
For nearly a century, scientists have
sought to enhance the shaving experience,
from improving formulations of
shave gels, balms and creams to enhancing
the efficiency and comfort of the razor
itself. Today, a myriad of razor options
are available. What’s a consumer to choose
and is there really a difference between
one blade, three blades and five blades?
Scientifically speaking, there is.
“People are always surprised when I tell
them my sole area of focus is the science of
shaving,” says Graham Simms, Research
Fellow at P&G Beauty & Grooming.
“Every day, I’m in the lab applying physics,
geometry and biology to help men
have a better shaving experience. And
I’m not alone, hundreds of scientists have
been studying this area for years.”
As early as 1929, an inventor striving for
the perfect shave saw the benefit of a fiveblade
razor and patented it. However,
the invention never reached the public
because this five-blade razor irritated
and cut the skin. For the next several
decades, the single-blade razor remained
the gold standard. Then, in 1971, Gillette
scientists were successful in creating
a two-blade razor that demonstrated a
closer, more comfortable shave than the
long-standing single blade. In 1998, the
three-blade razor, which built on the twoblade
improvements, was introduced.
Research has demonstrated the benefit
of multiple blade razors. The first
blade engages the hair and extends it
out of the follicle so that the subsequent
blade, if accurately placed, cuts the hair
further down the hair shaft before it
can fully retreat back into the follicle.
A razor with multiple blades replicates
this process and gives a measurable
improvement in closeness; however it
can also introduce new challenges. Studies
show that when a multi-blade razor is
used to shave the face, skin is forced up
and between the blades in small bulges.
This can create drag and discomfort and
can result in skin irritation.
Scientist uses a scanning electron microscope
to look at a component from a five-blade
cartridge.
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientist studies facial
skin and beard hair at high magnification using a
video microscope.
Simms and his scientist colleagues
addressed this problem through rigorous
study of new technologies and materials
as they designed the five-blade razor.
First, scientists discovered that by moving
each of the five blades closer together,
the bulge height was significantly reduced
and a more uniform stress was placed
on the skin, translating to less drag and
a safer, more comfortable shave. P&G

eakthroughs: Science News from P&G Beauty & Grooming
Beauty & Grooming scientists also sought
material improvements on the stainless
steel blades. These blades, that are sharper
than a scalpel, are enhanced with a
diamond-like carbon coating and a
telomer anti-friction layer, which dramatically
enhance the blade’s performance
with less tugging and more comfort.
But scientists still had one more hurdle.
While the closely-packed blades provided
an improved shave, they also caused the
razors to clog easily. Simms and his colleagues
solved this last problem with
narrower blade supports. By thinning
the material under the blades, they
allow more room for shave gel and hair to
be washed away.
Through decades of scientific study and
experience, P&G Beauty & Grooming
scientists have made a 1929 inventor’s
dream of the five-blade razor a reality.
“We were able to apply years of incremental
advances, and multiple disciplines
of study to make this come to life,” says
Simms. “I felt as much like a detective
solving a complex problem as I did
a scientist as we were creating this latest
advance. I’m eager to be presented with
the next problem to solve.”
Scanning electron micrograph of beard stubble
emerging from the irregular skin surface of a
man’s face.
MOISTURE BREAKTHROUGH: IT’S MORE THAN JUST WATER
Many women are looking for ways to
make their hair feel more moisturized.
However, hair with high moisture content
can actually lead to a “bad hair” day. Scientists
have observed that moisture increases
friction between hair fibers and decreases
tensile strength, which leads to an increase
in hair frizz and styling difficulties.
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists conducted
an experiment to understand the
meaning of “moisturized” hair, as defined
by women. Specifically, blindfolded panelists
were asked to assess their perception
of “moisture” in two hair samples.
One sample was equilibrated at 15 percent
relative humidity (RH) and the
other was equilibrated at 80 percent RH.
Seventy-five percent of the panelists characterized
the 15 percent RH hair samples
as feeling more moisturized, smoother,
less tangled and less damaged, while less
than ten percent found no difference
between the samples.
A novel microwave resonance measurement
determined the actual water content
of each sample. This assessment
verified that the water level of the 80 percent
RH sample was significantly higher
than that of the 15 percent RH sample,
which sharply contrasts with the panelists’
sensory assessment of “moisture.”
These findings, presented at the 2008
Asian Dermatological Congress, allowed
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists
to confirm that “moisturization”
correlates with tactile characteristics such
as smoothness, degree of tangling and hair
damage, rather than actual water content.
“These findings allow us to better
target women’s hair care needs,” explains
Michael Davis, P&G Beauty & Grooming
Senior Scientist.
A second sensory experiment performed
by P&G Beauty & Grooming has helped
women understand how to achieve the
desired feeling of “moisturized” hair. The
panelists felt two damaged hair samples,
one treated with shampoo and another
treated with shampoo and a conditioner
containing bis-aminopropyl dimethicone,
a modified silicone conditioning agent.
Panelists determined the hair treated with
both shampoo and conditioner felt more
“moisturized.” “These findings are significant
steps toward dispelling the myth of
‘moisturized’ hair,” says Davis. “By educating
women about the importance of
conditioning, we will empower them to
get the hair texture they want.”
% Response
% Response
100
80
60
40
20
0
100
80
60
40
20
Relationship Between Moisture and Perceived Hair Attributes
15% Relative Humidity
80% Relative Humidity
No Difference
More “Moisturized”
Smoother More Tangled More Damaged
Relationship Between Hair Conditioning and Perceived Hair Attributes
Shampoo
Shampoo & Conditioner
No Difference
0
More “Moisturized”
Smoother More Tangled More Damaged
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STRANGELY BEAUTIFUL
Massage, whether it is gentle stroking or
strong kneading, is recognized as one of the
oldest methods of healing. P&G Beauty
& Grooming scientists have developed
a technology for facial masks that builds on
the fundamentals of massage. The unique
technology uses a stretchable underlying
layer, or substrate, to apply a gentle,
massage-like pressure to the face.
The mask’s special substrate is enhanced
with “splitable fibers” that increase coverage
on the uneven surface of the face.
These fibers (pictured directly below) are
designed to disentangle more easily than
traditional masks, creating a contoured
face mask. This superior fit enhances blood
circulation and allows the ingredients in
the mask to penetrate deep within the skin.
Traditional masks are constructed with a
non-stretchable fiber, such as cotton or
rayon. The non-stretchable fiber (pictured
directly below) is highly tangled, limiting
the mask’s elasticity and ultimately its
ability to fit the face.
The snug fit of “splitable fibers” provides
the full coverage necessary for noticeable
skin benefits.
MYTHS & FACTS
Shaving makes hair grow back thicker.
MYTH: Shaving does not change hair texture.
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists
have found that shaving does not cause
hair to grow back thicker, darker or faster.
However, when a shaved hair begins to
re-grow, the tip shape is different from an
unshaven hair. This changes how the hair
feels initially, but if left to re-grow completely,
it will return to its former texture.
The shave gel and the razor are essential
partners.
FACT: Through years of shaving research,
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists have
learned that the ideal complement to a
state-of-the-art razor is the right shaving
gel. It allows sharp blades to cut close
while minimizing the risk of irritation by
providing a protective anti-friction layer.
Quality shave gels contain advanced lubricants
to enhance razor glide from the first
stroke to the last and help protect against
nicks, redness and tightness.
LAB NOTES
Antiperspirant Delivers Prescription-Strength Wetness Efficacy
Without Severe Irritation
Often prescription-strength
(Rx) antiperspirants are
recommended for patients
with severe perspiration.
Though efficacious, these
products with aluminum
chloride can irritate the skin
forcing patients to discontinue
use.
Remaining Sweat (mg)
250
200
150
100
50
0
Sweat Remaining After Evening Antiperspirant Application
OTC-Men
OTC-Women
Rx-Women
P&G Beauty & Grooming
scientists addressed this issue by studying perspiration and skin irritation when
using a new (or specially formulated) over-the-counter (OTC) antiperspirant or a
prescription-strength wetness protection product.
Clinical trials were conducted to compare the underarm performance of a “soft
solid” OTC antiperspirant (containing 20 percent aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex
gly) with a prescription-strength antiperspirant (containing 6.25 percent active aluminum
chloride). Every evening for ten nights, male panelists applied 0.6g of product
and females applied 0.4g of product. A qualified clinician assessed skin irritation
among female panelists. Researchers quantified underarm sweat from all panelists
on days seven and ten.
Data from these trials, presented at the 2007 and 2008 American Academy of
Dermatology conferences, demonstrate similar efficacy for the OTC antipers pirant as
compared to the tested Rx product containing 6.25 percent active aluminum chloride.
However, clinician assessments suggest the OTC antiperspirant delivers this efficacy
with significantly less skin irritation.
Rx-Men
Day 7
Day 9
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eakthroughs: Science News from P&G Beauty & Grooming
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
Graham Simms, Research Fellow
P&G Beauty & Grooming
recruits experts with
diverse specialities to
develop the most
advanced and effective
shaving technologies.
Graham Simms,
Research Fellow at the
Gillette Technology Centre in Reading,
U.K., is a Chartered Mechanical
Engineer who has worked in the
Grooming division for 19 years.
His reputation for being an enthusiastic
innovator is bolstered by the fact
that 17 patents, ranging from razors to
writing instruments, carry his name.
He has made significant contributions to
the development of many system razors
such as Venus Divine and M3Power.
Simms created the Future Technologies
department at Reading to scout the world
for novel technologies that could be used
in new razor prototypes. He also led the
multi-disciplinary Concept Engineering
Team that overcame tough technical challenges
to make five-blade razors a reality.
Prior to joining P&G Beauty & Grooming,
Simms worked at British Aerospace
and invented navigation systems for military
aircrafts, ships and missiles. “I moved
from designing products that I hoped
people would never use,” notes Simms, “to
designing products that I hope consumers
will use every day.”
Acclaim for P&G Perfumers
At the 2008 annual meeting of the American
Society of Perfumers, P&G perfumers
were awarded nine Perfumer Choice
Awards for best in-market fragrances. In
the 20 year history of these awards, no
company has ever swept more than a third
of the awards in a single year—until now.
More than 200 perfumer peers chose the
winners based on a blind sampling of
products in 25 categories. Of the nine
awards received by P&G, four awards were
for products in beauty care categories. Zerlina
Dubois and Stacy Hertenstein, P&G
Beauty & Grooming perfumers, accepted
the awards.
The following coveted awards recognize
the superior fragrance science and design
that P&G Beauty & Grooming provides
to the world’s consumers every day:
Best Hair Care Fragrance Mass
Pantene® Pro-V Color Expressions
Shampoo
Best Body Care Fragrance Women’s
Secret® Clinical Light & Fresh Scent
Best Body Care Fragrance Men’s
Old Spice® After Hours Deodorant
Best Fragrance Line Extension Specialty
The Herbal Essence® Series
Resources
http://www.aad.org/
(American Academy of Dermatology)
http://www.perfumers.org/
(American Society of Perfumers)
http://www.adc2008.org/
(Eighth Asian Dermatological Congress)
P&G Beauty & Grooming Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at nine
global technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific
efforts have resulted in over 10,000 patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for different
types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates.
P&G Beauty & Grooming products help make beauty dreams real for women worldwide and help men look,
feel and be their best every day. With more than 100 brands available in nearly 130 countries, P&G’s beauty and
grooming products delivered sales of nearly $28 billion in fiscal year 2007/08 , making it one of the world’s largest
beauty and grooming companies. P&G Beauty & Grooming offers trusted brands with leading technology to
meet the full complement of beauty and grooming needs, including Pantene®, Olay®, Head & Shoulders®, Max
Factor®, Cover Girl®, DDF®, Frederic Fekkai®, Wellaflex®, Rejoice®, Sebastian Professional®, Herbal Essences®,
Koleston®, Clairol Professional®, Nice ’n Easy®, Venus®, Gillette®, SK-II®, Wella Professionals®, Braun® and
a leading Prestige Fragrance division that spans from point of market entry consumers to high end luxury with
global brands such as Hugo Boss®, Lacoste®, and Christina Aguilera®. (NYSE: PG)
Please visit www.pgbeautyscience.com for the latest news and in-depth information
about P&G Beauty & Grooming and its scientific developments.
To talk to a P&G Beauty & Grooming scientist
or to learn more about ongoing research
at P&G Beauty & Grooming Science, contact:
Heather Cunningham
P&G Beauty & Grooming Science
+513-626-2606
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