confectionery Supp 2011Qx_Layout 1 - Speciality Food Magazine
confectionery Supp 2011Qx_Layout 1 - Speciality Food Magazine
confectionery Supp 2011Qx_Layout 1 - Speciality Food Magazine
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Confectionery<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk<br />
FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF<br />
2011
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*IPSOS MRBI 2011
Welcome<br />
With UK <strong>confectionery</strong><br />
sales expected to reach a<br />
value of £4.1 billion by<br />
2015 – the industry is the<br />
most buoyant it has ever<br />
been. The profitability in this market is<br />
largely owning to the sheer variety now<br />
found in the sector, and this has<br />
inspired us to focus on several new<br />
feature ideas this year.<br />
On page 28 we take a look at the<br />
growing popularity of Indian sweets,<br />
and how they can be best promoted<br />
during festivities. There has also been<br />
a rising interest in nostalgia sweets<br />
(page eight) and gourmet fudge (page<br />
11). If you are not keen on following<br />
trends and prefer to read our specialist<br />
retail advice pieces, turn to pages 14-<br />
15 for more information.<br />
Louise Miles, Editor<br />
CONTENTS<br />
4 Bars of Gold<br />
Sarah Jane Evans discusses the rise of the<br />
speciality chocolate bar<br />
8 A Different Class<br />
A round-up of the country’s sweetest shops<br />
11 New Tricks<br />
Natasha Lovell-Smith discovers innovation in<br />
the fudge sector<br />
12 A Taste of Fun<br />
A look at popular funfair sweets including<br />
candy floss, brandy snaps and popcorn<br />
14 Capitalising on Confectionery<br />
Helen Pattinson reveals her top retail tips<br />
16 What’s Sweet in the Market?<br />
Paul Hargreaves takes at a look at the year’s<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> trends<br />
17 Refashioning Flavour<br />
Toffee is more than an old-fashioned treat<br />
18 Talk of the Trade<br />
What retailers are recalling as their bestselling<br />
lines<br />
20 Paying a Fair Price<br />
How Fairtrade chocolate is creating a<br />
presence in the market<br />
22 Meet the Buyer<br />
Paul A. Young talks retail at his new<br />
Soho shop<br />
24 Going Against The Grain<br />
Shelley Preston discusses how female<br />
chocolatiers are making a mark<br />
28 Eastern Delights<br />
Louise Miles investigates Indian sweets<br />
30 Sweetness and Light<br />
The role of Stevia in the <strong>confectionery</strong> industry<br />
Innovations, new products,<br />
and creative sales concepts<br />
– the <strong>confectionery</strong> industry<br />
is an commercial enterprise<br />
that continues to develop at a fast<br />
rate. For many, chocolate is the<br />
epitome of culinary pleasure and<br />
luxury, however it holds specially<br />
great potential for creativity.<br />
Examples of these exciting trends<br />
have been made been evident<br />
both at home and aboard.<br />
In the European market, the<br />
most recent International<br />
Sweets and Biscuits Fair (ISM )<br />
held in Cologne demonstrated<br />
that the trend for single origin<br />
chocolates – chocolate with a<br />
designated origin – is holding<br />
up. Filled chocolates are<br />
undergoing a renaissance,<br />
especially in combinations with<br />
fruits, nuts or almonds. But, the<br />
most radical idea to impress<br />
visitors was the sweet olives in<br />
white chocolate. It seems these<br />
daring moves in the industry are<br />
sometimes controversial, but<br />
always intriguing.<br />
Interesting flavours<br />
At the <strong>Speciality</strong> & Fine <strong>Food</strong> Fair<br />
2011, a similar feeling of<br />
excitement was stirring in the<br />
Chocolate Fair aisles. Several new<br />
creations were being showcased<br />
including Amelia Rope Chocolate<br />
will its new chocolate bar range,<br />
including Dark Mandarin, Dark<br />
Lemon and Dark Ginger flavours.<br />
The Gourmet Chocolate Pizza<br />
Co. was highlighting its solid<br />
Belgian chocolate pizzas which<br />
toppings ranging from toffee and<br />
pecan nuts to marshmallows,<br />
and a new strawberry and<br />
champagne pizza.<br />
introduction<br />
Creative<br />
Confections<br />
Innovation in the sweets industry<br />
has meant that creations such as<br />
wasabi infused chocolates are now<br />
possible. With new flavours<br />
emerging all the time, what’s next?<br />
HF Chocolates also exhibited<br />
at the show and the director of the<br />
company, Thelma Benke, believes<br />
more customers are going for freefrom<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong>. “There is a lot<br />
of interest in the quality of<br />
ingredients in particular ‘free from’<br />
information e.g. gluten, sugar, azo<br />
dyes. This is true of both<br />
chocolates and sweets where the<br />
trend is towards natural colours<br />
and flavours. Colourful, distinctive,<br />
original, sometimes witty<br />
packaging is also important to<br />
entice the customer.”<br />
According to the team at the<br />
House of Dorchester consumer<br />
interest in chocolate has never<br />
been more promient. Hence, why<br />
the company has created a<br />
‘Chocolate Larder’ collection this<br />
year. Comprised of biscuits,<br />
flapjacks and Tiffin, to rich hot<br />
chocolate and chocolate stir-in<br />
spoons – the Larder is offering<br />
bang-on trends. “Each recipe we<br />
have created for our new range<br />
has been under extreme scrutiny<br />
from the whole team, to make<br />
sure that they had at their heart<br />
everything that is important to<br />
House of Dorchester – delicious<br />
recipes, expertly sourced<br />
ingredients and real skill in their<br />
creation. Biscuits, flapjacks and<br />
chocolate stir-in spoons are really<br />
just the start – there are lots more<br />
ideas in our new Larder!”<br />
comments Jeremy Moore from<br />
House of Dorchester.<br />
So, with the industry being at<br />
its most vibrant, now is the time<br />
for retailers and consumers to<br />
discover the latest confections.<br />
Over the next 32 pages, you will<br />
find a round-up of the most<br />
notable trends currently hitting the<br />
industry and also some sound<br />
retail advice to help push your<br />
business further.<br />
Confectionery<br />
Editor<br />
Designer<br />
Louise Miles 01206 505971<br />
Tom Sanderson<br />
louise.miles@aceville.co.uk<br />
Adsetting<br />
Features Writers<br />
Kevin Dennis<br />
Natasha Lovell-Smith 01206 508623<br />
Design/Repro/Typesetting<br />
natasha@aceville.co.uk<br />
Ace Pre-Press<br />
Group Advertising Manager<br />
19 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road,<br />
Sam Reubin 01206 505936<br />
Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY<br />
sam.reubin@aceville.co.uk<br />
Publisher<br />
Advertising Executives<br />
Helen Tudor 01206 505970<br />
Michelle Marples 01206 505934<br />
Published by:<br />
michelle.marples@aceville.co.uk<br />
Aceville Publications Ltd,<br />
Tim Wilby 01206 505240<br />
21-23 Phoenix Court,<br />
tim.wilby@aceville.co.uk<br />
Hawkins Road,<br />
Accounts<br />
Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY<br />
Sue Carr 01206 505901<br />
Disclaimer: The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Every effort is made<br />
to ensure the veracity and integrity of the companies, persons, products and services mentioned in this publication, and details<br />
given are believed to be accurate at the time of going to press. However no responsibility or liability whatsoever can be<br />
accepted for any consequence or repercussion of responding to any information or advice given or inferred.<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 3
chocolate bars<br />
Bars<br />
Gold<br />
of<br />
With chocolate now featuring in every<br />
shape possible – the industry is<br />
constantly evolving. Expert Sarah Jane<br />
Evans wants, however, to sell the<br />
merits of the speciality chocolate bar<br />
Where did the Milk<br />
Tray man go? You<br />
remember: the one<br />
in the black polo<br />
neck who performed daring deeds<br />
to deliver the box of milk<br />
chocolates to the demanding lady.<br />
Well, he kept up acrobatics until<br />
2003, but then – after 25 years<br />
–was consigned to the advertising<br />
dustbin. Just in time, for the<br />
chocolate world was changing<br />
radically. By 2003 the choosy<br />
woman much preferred Belgian<br />
chocolates. Fast forward to 2011<br />
and the demanding girlfriend is<br />
now selecting her own chocolates,<br />
and what she is wanting to choose<br />
is a bar.<br />
The great thing about the<br />
resurgence of the bar is that while<br />
bars are beloved by chocolate fans<br />
they are also tailor-made for delis and<br />
fine food retailers. Let’s look at the<br />
advantages, compared to the<br />
average box of chocs: portability,<br />
affordability, packaging, durability and<br />
flavour. It’s worth noting now that we<br />
are talking about fine chocolate bars,<br />
but more of that later.<br />
First, portability. Made for<br />
handbags and pockets, the<br />
humble bar is an easy buy and is<br />
perfect for quick, easy display.<br />
They do not need skilled sales<br />
people – the packaging does its<br />
own sales patter. There is none of<br />
the time-wasting hand selection of<br />
chocolates and then filling boxes.<br />
An artisan bar, handfoiled and<br />
packed, needs no finishing<br />
touches. These bars aren’t cheap,<br />
of course, with some of them rising<br />
£6 for 70g. However they are<br />
cheaper than a box of truffles, and<br />
many are definitely cheap enough<br />
to be bought on impulse. What’s<br />
more they can be picked up as a<br />
private treat, whereas a box of filled<br />
chocolates is never a private treat –<br />
it demands an occasion which<br />
limits its range. So put them by the<br />
till on a rainy day, or when the<br />
national mood is gloomy.<br />
Impact packaging<br />
The packaging is all part of the<br />
sales pitch, giving a little glamour to<br />
a shopping basket. Åkesson from<br />
Sweden has a faintly intellectual air<br />
with its black card boxes. Valrhona<br />
have always added class to a<br />
display, while relatively newcomer<br />
Amelia Rope’s brown paper<br />
4 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
wrapper is far more discreet. Look<br />
out for the new range of flavoured<br />
bars from Willie’s Delectable<br />
Cacao. They are boxed in vibrant<br />
colours with plenty of attitude,<br />
much like the wrappers of the<br />
Grenada Chocolate Company.<br />
Chococo’s bars are also bursting<br />
with personality. Now that standard<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> lines are flow<br />
wrapped, there is something<br />
deliciously ritualistic about<br />
unwrapping a bar that has been<br />
carefully wrapped in foil and paper.<br />
DeirdreMcCanny CoCouture in<br />
Belfast has got this to a fine art. A<br />
chocolate bar does not have to be<br />
a solitary treat, or the walker’s<br />
revival on a wet and windy day. A<br />
bar or two make a great gift for<br />
friends, an affordable luxury perfect<br />
to pass round with coffee.<br />
Customers coming to fine<br />
chocolate for the first time may not<br />
be aware that filled chocolates<br />
have short shelf lives, and need to<br />
be looked after. Chocolate in<br />
general is vulnerable to strong<br />
aromas – from cheese to coffee –<br />
and a fine cream ganache is a<br />
“The great thing about the<br />
resurgence of the bar is that<br />
while bars are beloved by<br />
chocolate fans they are also<br />
tailor-made for delis”<br />
particularly fragile indulgence.<br />
That’s where the bar comes in.<br />
Some producers mark their bars<br />
as viable for just two months, but<br />
the majority are shown to have a<br />
lifetime of a year, although it is<br />
undoubtedly true that the fresher<br />
the bar the better.<br />
Certainly bar aficionados are<br />
not deprived of flavour. As I<br />
discovered in the tastings for my<br />
guide to the world’s top producrs,<br />
Chocolate Unwrapped, bars from<br />
single origins can have flavours as<br />
diverse as red wine,<br />
citrus fruits,<br />
roasted walnuts, leather and tar.<br />
The flavours released depend on<br />
the quality and style of the many<br />
different approaches to finishing<br />
the bean. It’s not enough to<br />
ferment, dry and roast it. The<br />
conching time makes a distinct<br />
difference. For the curious, and the<br />
student of fine chocolate, two<br />
producers – Hotel Chocolat in its<br />
Purist range – and the Austrian<br />
Zotter in its Labooko collection –<br />
produce bars with different<br />
conching times for contrast.<br />
chocolate bars<br />
Flavour does not just come<br />
from the origin or the blend.<br />
Currently trending in twitter<br />
language, is lime (as in Willie’s<br />
Delectable Cacao new Sierra Leone<br />
bar with Ginger and Lime, and<br />
Amelia Rope’s Pale Lime and Sea<br />
Salt). Lime is what gives that bar the<br />
edge, while sea salt has become<br />
recently quite mainstream. Rococo<br />
were one of the early popularisers,<br />
and Duffy Sheardown has taken it a<br />
step further with his cocoa nib and<br />
oak-smoked sea salt milk chocolate<br />
bar, the sea salt is very subtle, the<br />
oak even more so.<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 5
chocolate bars<br />
In the search for novelty new<br />
producers Kokoh is using<br />
Himalayan Pink salt, while they<br />
also have a wattle seed bar. All of<br />
these choices are certainly more<br />
subtle than chilli. While chilli is still<br />
popular with consumers, for many<br />
chocolatiers it is much too<br />
dominant and they have moved on<br />
to sweeter, subtler spices and<br />
flavourings. Åkesson for instance<br />
is using the Madagascan<br />
Voatsiperifery pepper, which has a<br />
warm undertone with none of<br />
chilli’s bite.<br />
Simply changing the milk in a<br />
milk bar makes a difference –<br />
Laverstoke Park interestingly has a<br />
creamy buffalo milk bar made<br />
successfully by Artisan du<br />
Chocolat, who also have an<br />
almond milk bar. For imagination<br />
Zotter is undoubtedly the leader<br />
with its creative flavouring and<br />
fillings, even though not all of them<br />
hit the spot. For sheer elegance in<br />
flavour Valrhona is hard to beat,<br />
especially with its classic Manjari<br />
Orange and its Guanaja Grue,<br />
made with cocoa nibs.<br />
There is more than enough in<br />
the world of bars to excite and<br />
entice. There are also enough<br />
artisan producers around to give<br />
delicatessens a certain sense of<br />
exclusivity against other delis and<br />
the mainstream. It is, however,<br />
important to stress that the focus<br />
is on fine chocolate. Thus there is<br />
no vegetable fat other than<br />
cocoa butter, no artificial flavour<br />
such as vanillin, and there is no<br />
use of sweeteners such as<br />
sorbitol and maltitol.<br />
When discovering new<br />
chocolatiers, retailers should visit<br />
the companies’ websites, see what<br />
the producers have to say about<br />
their ethics and approach to trade.<br />
Ask producers whether they make<br />
their bars from the bean (only a very<br />
small number do), or whether they<br />
use couverture. A reliable producer<br />
should be willing to tell you whose<br />
couverture they use. Finally, be sure<br />
to stock chocolate bars that you<br />
like, not just the ones that look<br />
good or make specific claims.<br />
Keep tasting too; standards do vary<br />
over time owing to vintage changes<br />
and production demands. The<br />
good thing is that checking the<br />
chocolate is one quality control task<br />
that should always be a pleasure.<br />
Sarah Jane Evans is a master<br />
of wine, and author of<br />
Chocolate Unwrapped: Taste<br />
and Enjoy the World’s Finest<br />
Chocolate (Anova Books).<br />
WHAT’S HOT IN CHOC?<br />
Drinking chocolate, sipping chocolate, grated<br />
chocolate for blending in warm milk — whatever<br />
it’s called, it’s not our grandmother’s cocoa<br />
anymore. Sarah Jane Evans comments on hot<br />
chocolate trends<br />
One of the latest pieces of home kitchen equipment to hit the<br />
craving list is a ‘home hot chocolate dispenser’. These handy<br />
little machines bring home the authentic café experience of<br />
drinking chocolate by heating, whipping and blending milk and<br />
chocolate into a frothy, easily dispensed hot beverage.<br />
And, one of the more hotly contested categories in the<br />
Academy of Chocolate Awards is for drinking chocolate. This<br />
year the stars were undoubtedly the flavoured chocolates with<br />
three winning Gold: Paul A Young for his spicy Aztec, Jaz &<br />
Jul’s for their Caramel and Lime, and the category winner the<br />
US west coast producer Theo for the Chipotle. The message<br />
was: when spiced hot chocolate is well done, it’s better than<br />
the standard unflavoured variety. Delis can have the edge when<br />
it comes to selling these more out of the way flavours. Those<br />
who also have cafés have a real opportunity for diversification<br />
once autumn starts drawing in.<br />
For the point about chocolate is that it’s a ritual, a sensuous<br />
treat. In a recent survey among friends, fans quickly came up<br />
with their favourite recipes, from ‘I used to throw Aero mint<br />
bubbles in mine back in the uni days’ to ‘Two tablespoons of<br />
Nutella with hot frothy milk and two marshmallows’, and ‘the<br />
rich, thick, dark hot chocolate that you can nearly stand a<br />
spoon up in, that you get in Spain and Italy’. Their enthusiasm<br />
is patent. Interestingly each one of them mentions a garnish.<br />
Spain may serve churros, but it is worth thinking about offering<br />
a ginger spiced chocolate drink with a stem ginger biscuit, for<br />
instance, to add to the glamour, or a handful of chocolate<br />
couverture buttons for sprinkling over the top of the drink and<br />
stirring in as they melt.<br />
Patissier chocolatier, William Curley, makes a fine ritual in<br />
his London shops, offering a little plate and a small measure of<br />
unctuous chocolate in a small beaker. A small cup is all that is<br />
required when the chocolate is so rich. For more entertainment<br />
Zotter sells an entire hot chocolate set: each customer gets a<br />
little tray, with a small hand whisk, a double walled mug for the<br />
milk, and an individual bar for melting. It is definitely time to<br />
abandon the sachets of instant chocolate, and explore a world<br />
as interesting as fine leaf tea.<br />
6 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 7
itish sweet shops<br />
A<br />
Different<br />
Class<br />
Business is booming for those retail<br />
outlets which have stamped their USP<br />
into the public consciousness. We tour<br />
the nation’s most iconic shops<br />
The Cult Favourite<br />
With several shops plus<br />
a busy website,<br />
CyberCandy is meeting<br />
the current demand for<br />
cult sweets<br />
It’s 12 years since Margaret<br />
Morrison and husband Allan<br />
Goocher decided to enter retail<br />
with CyberCandy – back then a<br />
no-frills website that supplied eyepoppingly<br />
bright imports to a small<br />
band of fans. They had little clue<br />
that the store’s niche range of<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> would prove so<br />
popular. “It was just a sideline at<br />
first and we kept our day jobs,”<br />
explains Ms Morrison, “but it really<br />
took off online. Through that we<br />
built up a clear idea of the ranges<br />
that worked for us. Our first bricks<br />
and mortar shop was a theatre of<br />
products, just a neutral canvas to<br />
showcase the amazing graphics<br />
and branding on the packaging.”<br />
Amongst the exotic imports<br />
from Japan, Australia and beyond,<br />
CyberCandy has a great selection<br />
of retro classics that appeal to<br />
nostalgic shoppers prepared to<br />
spend serious cash on the novelty<br />
products from their past. “We<br />
make a lot of effort to get the<br />
things that have disappeared:<br />
Lucky Charms cereal, Nestle<br />
Pretzel Flips, Nerds...So often big<br />
brands dip a toe in the UK and<br />
then withdraw from the market,<br />
creating a niche following of<br />
customers who miss it. We can<br />
bring back the memory for those<br />
customers, and transport them<br />
back in time.”<br />
CyberCandy caters for a<br />
specific client base: customers that<br />
have enough disposable income to<br />
justify spending out on imported<br />
goods priced at a hefty premium.<br />
“Children like our ranges but on the<br />
whole the prices are too much for<br />
them; they have to budget carefully<br />
or have choice anxiety. Our real<br />
core customer base is young<br />
adults and students – anyone into<br />
graphic design or who likes<br />
unusual things. A lot of our biggest<br />
fans are bordering on collectors –<br />
they enjoy looking for cute things<br />
they can save, or seasonal<br />
versions.”<br />
The stores attract an even split<br />
of male and female customers,<br />
most within the age band 16 and<br />
“Our biggest fans<br />
are bordering on<br />
collectors – they<br />
look out for cute<br />
things they can save”<br />
35. And, for these customers, the<br />
air of mystery and novelty attracted<br />
to the imports is a big part of the<br />
attraction. Nostalgic shopping is<br />
also big, though it’s not about the<br />
Victorian-style boiled sweets that<br />
have proved so popular for many<br />
retailers. Instead CyberCandy<br />
invokes affection for a very specific<br />
era. “For us it’s not about sweets in<br />
jars but Wham bars and other<br />
favourites from the 70s. We do a<br />
great trade in the kind of things<br />
people used to get in Woolworths:<br />
Black Jacks, Sherbet Dip Dabs<br />
and Fruit Salads.”<br />
The customers’ amazing<br />
dedication for familiar products<br />
even extends to rebrands, when<br />
units bearing the old packaging<br />
suddenly gain retro appeal.<br />
“Mountain Dew relaunched its cans<br />
with a new, ‘modern’ design but it<br />
just doesn’t seem to have the<br />
same appeal for customers,”<br />
explains Ms Morrison. “So we see<br />
really buoyant sales of original<br />
designs. We also make sure we<br />
stock every conceivable variation:<br />
guest flavours, limited editions, and<br />
imports from Japan which come in<br />
extra large sizes.”<br />
With four stores and another<br />
planned, the future looks rosy for<br />
the brand. “Location is something<br />
we’re feeling our way on,” says Ms<br />
Morrison. “Covent Garden is a<br />
great location because it gets<br />
tourists and show-goers. Our<br />
Brighton store is in North Laine<br />
where there’s hardly a high-street<br />
chain, which is nice. We like to be<br />
where the indies are so we don’t<br />
do malls. Location is important but<br />
people discover us wherever we<br />
are, and see a great window<br />
display. Our website is due for an<br />
overhaul, and it means customers<br />
all over Britain can reach those<br />
who don’t have local access. We<br />
also do specialist shows themed<br />
around sci-fi or manga [Japanese<br />
animation]. They tend to attract the<br />
right crowd for us. There are<br />
massive levels of enthusiasm.<br />
People are always fighting over<br />
where we can open the next store<br />
– they want us to bring one to their<br />
town!” comments Ms Morrison.<br />
8 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
The Retro Retreat<br />
Rose-tinted nostalgia<br />
reigns supreme at Hope<br />
& Greenwood, which<br />
has stores in Covent<br />
Garden and Dulwich<br />
The Enid Blyton aesthetic to be<br />
soaked up in Hope & Greenwood’s<br />
two stores is a real thrill for<br />
nostalgia fans, with the brand’s<br />
exclusive selection of sweeties<br />
offering an authentic taste of the<br />
past. “We see a trend in products<br />
and sweets that are warm and<br />
comforting, given this economic<br />
climate, and for things that hark<br />
back to our childhoods,” says cofounder<br />
Kitty Hope. “I’m<br />
responsible for all our packaging<br />
and it’s 100% based on my Auntie<br />
Mary’s pantry. She had a great oldfashioned<br />
larder with cold-store<br />
shelving – as a child I was utterly<br />
fascinated by it. Now my ethos is if<br />
a product doesn’t look like it could<br />
be found in her larder, it doesn’t<br />
have a place at Hope and<br />
Greenwood. And we don’t repast<br />
the same lines in multiple colours –<br />
there’s a higgledy piggledy<br />
randomness that forms a range<br />
that still has curiosity.”<br />
Miss Hope’s background in<br />
design, combined with her<br />
husband’s (Mr Greenwood) love of<br />
antiques, gave to birth to an<br />
aesthetic that’s hit a chord with the<br />
buying public. “The whole look and<br />
feel is as if the shop has evolved<br />
from 1890 to 1960.” But is this<br />
look just an attempt to hook into<br />
the zeitgeist? “No, it’s a hearty<br />
ethos,” insists Miss Hope. “There<br />
are a few retailers who have a look<br />
close to ours but the difference is<br />
the quality of our products is top<br />
notch. We always knew we had to<br />
deliver the whole package. It’s like<br />
buying a beautiful pair of pants:<br />
once you get through the great<br />
wrapping, layers of tissue paper<br />
and gold stickers, you still need<br />
to have something inside that<br />
meets expectations. So it’s<br />
about delivering the fulfilment<br />
at every level so customers are<br />
never disappointed.”<br />
If attention to the quality of the<br />
products has proven crucial, it has<br />
also brought its own set of<br />
problems. “Our rhubarb and<br />
custards are only made for us, and<br />
we’re about to launch Foaming<br />
Blue Cherries that expand in your<br />
mouth. We also do Fizz! Bang!<br />
Wallops!; Honey Toffee; and<br />
Peanut Butter Fudge. The cost of<br />
raw materials is going up, and<br />
we’re absorbing that increase<br />
rather than passing it on. We<br />
intend to maintain those prices but<br />
retail is tough at the moment.<br />
Please God let it change back.”<br />
Manufacturing its own lines<br />
in an era of rampant food inflation<br />
has created some serious<br />
headaches for Hope &<br />
Greenwood.<br />
“It’s a slap in the face when a<br />
supplier puts prices up and give 24<br />
hours notice. That pisses me off.<br />
They know the increases are<br />
coming so they could give more<br />
warning. Sometimes you can’t<br />
accommodate it quickly enough.<br />
But then people out there are<br />
seriously suffering and we’re lucky.<br />
Our price point isn’t much higher<br />
than other stores. People says it’s<br />
a posh sweet shop but we’re not<br />
keen to undercut everyone in the<br />
area. Confectionery has a<br />
perceived price point so we stay in<br />
british sweet shops<br />
the commercial world.”<br />
And could this strong business<br />
instinct compromise the shop’s<br />
current look if the public appetite<br />
for a retro British look wanes? “We<br />
were British before it was cool to<br />
be – when we opened the first<br />
shop I said to Mr Greenwood<br />
‘Dare I put Union Jack bunting<br />
up?’ He thought we’d get a brick<br />
through the window. We were very<br />
early pioneers but we’re in it for the<br />
long haul. I’m not taking my Union<br />
Jack down for anyone!”<br />
she concludes.<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 9
itish sweet shops<br />
Rest of the Best<br />
The Tourist’s<br />
1Treasure<br />
Dedication to a few<br />
traditional lines has put<br />
Gordon & Durward in<br />
Crieff into a league<br />
of its own<br />
Like all the best foodie<br />
destinations, this shop-comesweetie-factory<br />
has plenty of ownrecipe<br />
goodies that claim to be the<br />
best. The company’s traditional<br />
copper boilers bubble with the<br />
natural ingredients required for<br />
tablet – the hard, granular fudge<br />
peculiar to Scotland that has<br />
sweetie-lovers of all generations<br />
hooked. Meanwhile a busy team<br />
mixes up coconut ice, macaroons<br />
and the shop’s famous sugar<br />
mice – of which 3,000 are made<br />
each week!<br />
The Palace to<br />
2Pleasure<br />
Inspired use of iconic<br />
branding puts<br />
Charbonnel et Walker<br />
ahead of the local<br />
competition<br />
If there’s any <strong>confectionery</strong><br />
packaging more rich with romantic<br />
promise than the gold-embossed<br />
chocolate boxes produced by<br />
Charbonnel et Walker, we’d like to<br />
see it. The iconic, satin-ribbonwrapped<br />
cartons fill the curved<br />
glass windows in Old Bond Street’s<br />
Royal Arcade – a location<br />
guaranteed to impress the brand’s<br />
pedigree upon any shopper with the<br />
means to buy. Despite the name<br />
this is a thoroughly English<br />
company, founded in 1875 and<br />
carrying the Queen’s Royal Warrant.<br />
The Time<br />
3Capsule<br />
With two stores in<br />
Yorkshire’s favourite<br />
tourist town, Justin’s<br />
of Whitby is tapping<br />
into local history with<br />
huge success<br />
Along the cobbles of Whitby’s<br />
winding Church Street you’ll find<br />
the lavish Victorian frontage of<br />
Justin’s, a traditional chocolate<br />
shop with an army of die-hard fans<br />
thanks to its unusual special<br />
ranges. Chief among these are<br />
Captain Cook’s Cannonballs –<br />
gargantuan, chocolate-coated<br />
spheres of rum truffle – and<br />
Dracula’s Coffins, a Gothic nod to<br />
the town’s literary connection with<br />
Bram Stoker’s ghoulish count. Try<br />
both – the resulting sugar rush will<br />
fuel your explorations of this<br />
endearing seaside town.<br />
The Flamboyant<br />
4and Fabulous<br />
A dedication to its<br />
window displays has won<br />
Choccywoccydoodah a<br />
high media profile with<br />
profits to match<br />
Gothic sensibilities and a passion<br />
for high Victoriana infuse every<br />
design at this weird and wonderful<br />
palace of pleasure, which has<br />
become a place of pilgrimage<br />
for chocoholics. Here chocolate in<br />
all its forms is coloured every<br />
shade of the rainbow and<br />
magicked into gravity-defying<br />
towers and dioramas.<br />
5<br />
The Workshop<br />
Outlet<br />
Bubbling up its own<br />
iconic sweets, Uncle<br />
Joe’s Emporium offers<br />
a taste of the town from<br />
generations past<br />
This traditional shop’s selection of<br />
ye olde sweeties includes classics<br />
such as sarsparilla drops,<br />
humbugs and Pontefract cakes,<br />
but the real star of the show is<br />
Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls. Wigan’s<br />
iconic boiled sweet is loving made<br />
in huge open pans from three<br />
ingredients – cane sugar, cream of<br />
tartar and peppermint. The exact<br />
recipe has remained a closely<br />
guarded secret for generations of<br />
the Santus family, whose ancestor<br />
first established the brand in 1898.<br />
10 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
fudge<br />
New<br />
Tricks<br />
From mojito to sticky toffee<br />
pudding, speciality fudges are<br />
available in practically every<br />
flavour imaginable. Natasha<br />
Lovell-Smith explores the sector<br />
When it comes to sweets it doesn’t get more traditional than<br />
old-fashioned, handmade fudge. However, the industry is<br />
undergoing something of a renaissance, with new and<br />
exciting flavours being introduced all the time. As in many<br />
sectors, classic varieties like vanilla and chocolate will ultimately be your<br />
best sellers, but it’s definitely worth promoting quirkier, attention-grabbing<br />
flavours to keep your selection fresh.<br />
The Little Deli in North Wales has been selling homemade fudge since<br />
the store opened over two years ago and is renowned in the region for its<br />
unusual flavours. The store has also picked up a string of Great Taste<br />
awards, as well as numerous gongs from the Wales The True Taste<br />
Awards. “Making your own fudge is actually quite straightforward, it’s just<br />
about getting that original recipe correct,” starts Emma Baravelli, co-owner.<br />
“I used to work in the hospitality industry and my recipe is something that<br />
I’ve developed over time. The ingredients are very simple – sugar, butter<br />
and milk – but the actual process is difficult to perfect.”<br />
According to Ms Baravelli, ‘proper’ fudge can be differentiated from the<br />
mass-produced variety by its hard and crumbly texture and creamy flavour.<br />
“The other stuff is too smooth and sickly for my taste,” she says. Flavours<br />
on offer include salted caramel, peanut butter, barabrith and lemon with<br />
sour cream. “But, as with ice cream, it’s the plainer flavours that tend to<br />
sell the best. Out clotted cream fudge is our best seller by far, but we offer<br />
the quirkier flavours alongside to give people a reason to come in and see<br />
what’s going on,” she adds.<br />
In contrast, Middlesbrough-based Fudge Fancies produces ubercontemporary<br />
confections that are presented like the structured desserts<br />
you might find in a high-end restaurant. The company was founded by<br />
Michael Goodchild, a former plasterer who was inspired to make fudge by<br />
his grandmother, a keen home cook. However, in order to bring something<br />
different to the sector, Mr Goodchild reworked the classic fudge recipe to<br />
make a more modern version. “It is a lot softer than the old-fashioned type<br />
– the texture is a bit like chocolate truffle, but harder,” he says.<br />
Like many food ventures, Fudge Fancies was born from a hobby. “I<br />
started making it for friends and family at Christmas and it went down<br />
really well. At this time I was also struggling to find work in the building<br />
trade, so I thought I’d see how far I could take things.” Mr Goodchild<br />
started selling his fudge from a small retail outlet, but demand from local<br />
retailers and event planners proved so strong that, after six months, he<br />
started producing fudge full time and<br />
selling it online.<br />
“I’ve had a lot of interest from<br />
wedding planners and<br />
businesses wanting to give out corporate gifts, so it made sense to focus<br />
on production rather than face-to-face retail,” he continues.<br />
Although traditional crumbly fudge is what most customers will be<br />
familiar with, Mr Goodchild believes there is also a growing market for the<br />
modern interpretation. “I present them a bit like cupcakes with some kind<br />
of pretty decoration on top of each piece – visuals are so important in the<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> sector.” However, the company works hard to ensure its<br />
creations taste as good as they look; varieties include Eaton mess, white<br />
chocolate, lemon and lime, and after dinner mint. “Obviously it’s the<br />
presentation that first attracts people, but flavour is the most important<br />
thing because it keeps people coming back.” he concludes.<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 11
funfair sweets<br />
A TASTE<br />
OF FUN<br />
Novelty <strong>confectionery</strong> has never<br />
been more popular, says Kerry<br />
Wilkinson of Trufflepiglet<br />
As disposable income<br />
declines through<br />
recovering interest rates<br />
and rising food and<br />
energy bills, the public are looking<br />
for ways to have fun at home and<br />
indulge without breaking the bank.<br />
The ‘Make Do and Mend’ ethos is<br />
still going strong. Nostalgia is<br />
popular, with many people<br />
choosing to maximise their dining<br />
experience within the home, rather<br />
than splurging at a restaurant.<br />
And, this trend certainly applies<br />
to the <strong>confectionery</strong> market, with<br />
more customers purchasing<br />
‘cheap and cheerful’ treats such as<br />
candy floss, boiled sweets and<br />
toffee apples.<br />
Celebrity chefs have<br />
refashioned this joy for nostalgia a<br />
lot in 2011. Heston Blumenthal<br />
recently highlighted funfair food in<br />
the cinema episode of the Channel<br />
4 programme: Heston’s Mission<br />
Impossible. In the show the chef<br />
revamped the food offerings at a<br />
branch of Cineworld with toffee<br />
apples and inside-out hotdogs,<br />
and set up an exciting carnival<br />
atmosphere. This worked because<br />
the foods offered were not too far<br />
removed from the usual cinema<br />
treats, but with an added spin it<br />
made them more enticing and fun,<br />
and therefore heightened the<br />
customer experience.<br />
Sweet gadgets<br />
Along with the inspiring<br />
‘performance’ dishes by<br />
restaurateurs such as Heston<br />
Blumenthal, the increase in home<br />
entertaining has given rise to quirky<br />
kitchen gadgets that shoppers can<br />
enjoy using in the comfort of their<br />
own homes. It could be argued that<br />
the fondue set was the beginning.<br />
And, this developed into what is<br />
now the eminent chocolate fountain,<br />
pioneered by Giles & Posner.<br />
Lisa Scott, PR and branding<br />
manager comments on this<br />
developed interest. “In the past<br />
year we have seen an average of<br />
23% increase on the sales of our<br />
‘fun food entertainment’ home<br />
products, with the more popular<br />
items being our candyfloss maker<br />
and premier chocolate fountains.<br />
Our retail products are popular as<br />
they allow the consumer to cook,<br />
bake and make foods in the<br />
comfort of their own home. Due to<br />
the economic condition, more<br />
people are spending time at home<br />
and are therefore creating their<br />
own entertainment in the kitchen.”<br />
Ms Scott adds, “Giles & Posner<br />
has also seen a massive increase in<br />
‘feel good’ products like our<br />
popcorn makers, cupcake makers,<br />
and ‘retro style’ items. Our gadget<br />
portfolio continues to grow every<br />
month with our range being readily<br />
available on the high street and also<br />
online from many retailers.”<br />
Fun time treats<br />
The theme of fun and<br />
entertainment within food has<br />
brought us popcorn makers and<br />
even home candy floss machines.<br />
These give an authentic and<br />
nostalgic taste of the fun fair<br />
whenever the consumer wishes.<br />
Until very recently, fun-fair style<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> could only be<br />
purchased once a year, when the<br />
fair came to town. Whereas now,<br />
consumers can enjoy treats such<br />
as candy floss in their own living<br />
rooms during any season.<br />
Many <strong>confectionery</strong> producers<br />
including myself have been keen to<br />
recognise this trend by<br />
experimenting with fun flavours. I<br />
launched trufflepiglet at the<br />
beginning of the year, and now sell<br />
candy floss and brandy snaps all<br />
year round. These treats are<br />
prepared in small batches as and<br />
when customers place an order.<br />
This has worked for me as I have a<br />
couple of regulars hooked on the<br />
brandy snaps and therefore keep<br />
coming back for more! Fine food<br />
retailers could also tap into this trend<br />
by focusing on traditional treats, and<br />
giving out samples in-store.<br />
Sweetshop chain Sugacane in<br />
Cardiff is doing just this by offering<br />
fresh candy floss made in-store.<br />
The shop offers its customers no<br />
less than 27 candy floss flavours<br />
which include traditional tastes<br />
such as pear drop, apple & custard<br />
and dandelion and burdock. A<br />
representative for the company<br />
said, “Sugacane are restoring a<br />
sense of performance in stores –<br />
all the fun of the fair and the thrill of<br />
the theatrical spectacle. Our staff<br />
whizz up customers’ favourite floss<br />
right before their eyes. Be<br />
transfixed as the sugar crystals are<br />
transformed magically into mounds<br />
of soft and wispy melt-in-themonth<br />
candy floss.”<br />
For sweet shops looking to<br />
take advantage of and to capitalise<br />
on another fun-fair favourite, instore<br />
fudge making is also being<br />
offered by the company Calico<br />
Cottage. The Calico Cottage In-<br />
Store Fudge Programme means<br />
that customers can make their<br />
own cream and butter fudge. It is<br />
used in sweet shops across the<br />
world to attract custom. Through<br />
these lines are only available ready<br />
made, they are making it easier for<br />
the customer by producing a kind<br />
of ‘ready meal’ approach to<br />
compliment the growing food<br />
entertainment market.<br />
A display that pays<br />
By making up novelty confections<br />
in-store, customers are given the<br />
added advantage of freshness and<br />
it also adds to the excitement and<br />
theatre of retail. Both of these<br />
factors add value to the purchase<br />
and encourage more sales. The<br />
extra-sensory experiences are why<br />
this works so well, because<br />
shoppers not only want to taste<br />
12 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
the food, but want also want to<br />
take in the tempting smells – afterall<br />
who can resist the smell of<br />
freshly cooked popcorn?<br />
Not many shoppers can refuse<br />
treats such as this and the<br />
heightened interest has clearly<br />
been demonstrated with the rise of<br />
the ‘traditional’ sweet shop in the<br />
“With demand<br />
growing for<br />
sweets to make<br />
you smile, the gift<br />
and <strong>confectionery</strong><br />
retailer would be<br />
wise to watch<br />
this trend”<br />
UK. For several years, more shops<br />
have been opening up across the<br />
UK with phenomenal success in<br />
retailing retro sweets and supplying<br />
the demand for nostalgic treats.<br />
These shops are primarily targeted<br />
at adults, firmly reinforcing the<br />
message that sweets aren’t just for<br />
kids. The customer is invited to<br />
relive the sweet, sour, fizzy and<br />
creamy textures and tastes they<br />
enjoyed as a child, but with the<br />
pocket money of a grown-up<br />
instead. This often results in<br />
healthy sales.<br />
Companies that recognise this<br />
are definitely cashing in. At a time<br />
when there are (albeit tenuous)<br />
parallels to the hard times of the<br />
1940s, optimistic themes from that<br />
era are influencing <strong>confectionery</strong><br />
labelling in the form of street party<br />
iconography, Ministry of Information<br />
slogans, Union Jacks, knitting and<br />
liberty prints. All things retro are<br />
now cool, and of course sweets<br />
are firmly included.<br />
Further evidence of the<br />
demand for retro sugar snacks can<br />
be found in more modern sweet<br />
shops, such as high street<br />
newcomer and sweet franchise<br />
Sugacane. The chain currently has<br />
a portfolio of 26 stores, with a<br />
further 14 expected before the end<br />
of 2011. Director Adam Johnston<br />
comments, “A very large<br />
proportion of Sugacane’s<br />
customers are adults, in fact our<br />
figures show that our biggest<br />
market is the over 50’s.<br />
“We feel that adults of this age<br />
find Sugacane so appealing<br />
because we have harnessed the<br />
old world traditional sweets, kept<br />
the quality and put it into an<br />
environment that people today can<br />
relate to more than the old<br />
fashioned sweet shops that are<br />
around. We also incorporate coffee<br />
into the stores so people may be<br />
coming in for a coffee and noticing<br />
sweets they have not seen for<br />
years, it creates a really nice<br />
atmosphere,” he says.<br />
With demand growing for<br />
sweets to make you smile, the gift<br />
and <strong>confectionery</strong> retailer would be<br />
wise to watch this trend. For<br />
example, at trufflepiglet, I have<br />
created chocolates in the shape of<br />
tuxedos, pigs, cakes and even round<br />
bombs which are appealing to all<br />
age groups and look eye-catching<br />
when put together as a collection.<br />
Of course people are always<br />
going to buy high end<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> for special occasions,<br />
however when buying for<br />
themselves or an informal<br />
gathering, there are fantastic<br />
opportunities for embracing the<br />
‘fun’ trend. As we saw with the<br />
development of the fondue set<br />
evolving into the chocolate fountain,<br />
it is exciting to anticipate what will<br />
come next. There are many other<br />
niches yet to be explored and<br />
discovered, which will no doubt<br />
start to show during 2012.<br />
Kerry Wilkinson is the owner<br />
of trufflepiglet, for more<br />
information please see,<br />
W: www.trufflepiglet.com,<br />
or E: kerry@trufflepiglet.com<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 13
etail advice<br />
Capitalising on<br />
Confectionery<br />
After setting up five successful<br />
chocolate shops, Helen Pattinson of<br />
Montezuma Chocolates is welladvised<br />
to pass retail knowledge onto<br />
other aspiring chocolatiers<br />
In 2000, my husband Simon<br />
and I wanted to set up a<br />
chocolate business, that<br />
solely focused on retail.<br />
Initially we had no intention of<br />
making chocolate ourselves, but<br />
after conducting some in-depth<br />
market research, we decided this<br />
was a route we wanted to explore.<br />
So, we set about finding British<br />
producers who could help us to<br />
create a range of chocolates under<br />
the Montezuma’s brand. After<br />
seeking some expert advice and<br />
undergoing many negotiations, we<br />
opened our first store in Brighton in<br />
August 2000.<br />
To our joy and amazement,<br />
customers came in and spent<br />
money! It was the most fascinating<br />
and exhilarating experience, to see<br />
a customer actually part with good<br />
money to buy something we had<br />
personally created. More<br />
importantly, they came back for<br />
more. We now produce all of our<br />
chocolates in Chichester and have<br />
five stores in Brighton, Chichester,<br />
Winchester, Kingston-upon-Thames<br />
and Spitalfields Market in London.<br />
Setting up and running our<br />
own stores was at first a very steep<br />
learning curve, but after acquiring<br />
over a decade of experience and<br />
more recently, a constant attention<br />
to detail we now feel qualified to<br />
talk to other retailers about which<br />
products they should be taking,<br />
how to merchandise them and<br />
how they should talk to their<br />
customers about them. We have<br />
learnt a lot in eleven years of<br />
retailing and these are eight of my<br />
top chocolatier tips.<br />
1 Sampling<br />
We always have a taster tray<br />
out in our stores with small<br />
samples of the chocolate of the<br />
day. Our store teams are targeted<br />
to go outside ten times every day<br />
with the tray. This gives them an<br />
opportunity to talk to customers<br />
who may not ordinarily come into<br />
our store. It’s all very well offering a<br />
taster when they’re already in-store<br />
but at that point, they are already in<br />
the buying frame of mind. If you<br />
can convert someone on the street<br />
who was going to walk straight<br />
past, that is a real achievement.<br />
2 Price<br />
Chocolate ranges in price<br />
enormously and sometimes it’s<br />
difficult to justify why it is so<br />
expensive. We only sell<br />
Montezuma’s products in our<br />
stores and our aim is ‘to bring the<br />
food of the gods to mere mortals’<br />
or the best quality possible while<br />
making sure it’s affordable. If you’re<br />
14 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
etail advice<br />
buying other brands, carry out a<br />
sanity check before you invest in<br />
stock. If the retail price shocks you,<br />
it will probably shock your<br />
customers, and inevitably sit on the<br />
shelf for a while.<br />
Stock turn<br />
3Although a lot of chocolate<br />
products have a good shelf life, we<br />
have learnt the hard way that sitting<br />
on stock is not good business<br />
practice. I shouldn’t say this but<br />
make your supplier sit on the stock;<br />
as an independent retailer, you<br />
should hold as little stock as<br />
possible and order little and often.<br />
That also helps cash flow, without<br />
which there is no business!<br />
“We always have<br />
a taster tray out in<br />
our stores with<br />
small samples of<br />
the chocolate”<br />
Customer service<br />
4It’s obvious that service is so<br />
important but it’s hard to believe<br />
that when you walk into some<br />
shops. Having a mini chain of<br />
stores has meant that we can’t be<br />
in them all the time. In fact, we<br />
have fantastic teams in each store<br />
who represent our brand to the<br />
utmost. In order to have some<br />
consistency however, we do have<br />
strict standards that everybody<br />
must adhere to. From the initial<br />
greeting when you walk into the<br />
store, the offer of a taster and help,<br />
to a loyalty card at the till.<br />
There is no script but there are<br />
certain things we like our staff to<br />
say and do. For this reason, we<br />
also employ mystery shoppers. I<br />
was fairly sceptical about investing<br />
in mystery shoppers at first but I<br />
am now completely sold on the<br />
idea. If you own more than one<br />
shop, it is worth considering. It<br />
keeps the teams on their toes and<br />
they actually enjoy the competition<br />
between stores when the quarterly<br />
results are released.<br />
5 Knowledge<br />
Chocolate is the same as any<br />
other food, it will not fly off the<br />
shelves without knowledgeable<br />
staff. With a very large product<br />
range, customers are sometimes<br />
overwhelmed when they first walk<br />
into Montezuma’s. Therefore, staff<br />
need to be aware of this and try to<br />
guide them through the range<br />
without being overbearing.<br />
Chocolate can be a complicated<br />
food, with different cocoa<br />
percentages, various cocoa<br />
sources, truffles, bars and drinking<br />
chocolate as well as great price<br />
variations. It’s the best part of the<br />
job but your staff need to have<br />
tried most of the products to be<br />
able to give their opinion and have<br />
learnt the differences between the<br />
various products. If you’re not clear<br />
what those differences are, then<br />
the producers should be more<br />
than happy to give you some<br />
easy guidelines.<br />
6 Merchandising<br />
Clean, tidy and well labelled<br />
with some creative flair; these are<br />
the keys to merchandising.<br />
I can’t stand seeing dirty or dusty<br />
shelves and products. For me,<br />
neat ordered presentation is the<br />
way forward. I like to see<br />
products merchandised in their<br />
ranges to keep it simple for<br />
customers, however the more<br />
creative retailer may decide to mix<br />
up lines and use other themes to<br />
display groups of products such<br />
as colour or country of origin.<br />
Just make sure the theme is<br />
obvious to the customer and it is<br />
all labelled clearly.<br />
7 Expansion<br />
Opening up additional stores is<br />
expensive and you can make very<br />
costly mistakes very easily so the<br />
first thing to focus on is location.<br />
Just because your store format<br />
works in one street, it doesn’t<br />
mean it will work in another area.<br />
We have spent days in each town<br />
and opened stores by simply<br />
counting people walking up and<br />
down past the target store.<br />
Compare it to your current store<br />
and if it’s not as high, don’t<br />
consider taking it. When you’re<br />
happy with location, consider<br />
recruiting an experienced manager<br />
to run one of your stores.<br />
It’s really hard to try to manage<br />
two stores in different towns and<br />
the investment in a<br />
manager should be<br />
worth it. Just make<br />
sure you calculate this<br />
into your projections!<br />
A good manager<br />
should bring with them<br />
some good new ideas<br />
but make sure you spend<br />
time with them instilling<br />
your standards first.<br />
word<br />
8Finally, play to<br />
your strengths. As<br />
independent<br />
retailers, we have<br />
a huge amount of<br />
competition,<br />
from other<br />
chocolate<br />
retailers and<br />
also the<br />
supermarkets, so therefore we<br />
have to create a point of difference<br />
to succeed. Create a warm and<br />
welcome atmosphere in the store<br />
with the right music and welcome,<br />
use some nicely hand-written<br />
boards to promote different<br />
products and use your tasters.<br />
Make sure each customer receives<br />
an individual offer of help and try to<br />
engage them in conversation.<br />
People are generally very happy<br />
when they’re buying chocolate so<br />
it’s worth making the most of it!<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 15
trends<br />
What’s<br />
Sweet<br />
Paul Hargreaves, managing director of<br />
Cotswold Fayre reflects on the latest<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> trends which includes the<br />
rise of the British chocolatier<br />
Since my first foray into the<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> market ten<br />
years ago, the sector has<br />
changed remarkably,<br />
particularly in the UK. There is a<br />
huge variety of both sweet and<br />
chocolate brands and the market<br />
has increased in sophistication<br />
beyond belief. The number of<br />
artisan chocolate brands, for<br />
example in the south of England<br />
has gone from two to more than<br />
ten within the last 10 years. From a<br />
country that used to import most of<br />
its chocolate products this is<br />
encouraging. When I was a kid it<br />
had to be Swiss or Belgian<br />
chocolate, now it is almost more<br />
special to buy a loved one<br />
chocolates from the UK.<br />
I distinctively remember my first<br />
visit to ISM in Cologne and being<br />
amazed at the variety of<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> on offer from Europe,<br />
whilst virtually the only busy stand<br />
on the UK Pavilion was one selling<br />
bras and knickers made of<br />
refreshers! I am pleased to say that<br />
the UK seems to have made<br />
strides in a more positive direction<br />
in terms of innovation and<br />
sophistication within the<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> sector.<br />
A few years ago artisan<br />
producers started introducing more<br />
unusual flavours into chocolate<br />
whether in bars, novelty shapes or<br />
Easter eggs. We saw the arrival of<br />
vanilla, chilli, cardamom, and even<br />
salt and pepper. These products<br />
and flavours are still around, and<br />
more are emerging. Possibly some<br />
of the manufacturers are maybe<br />
trying just a bit too hard, but this<br />
partly comes from the market<br />
in the Market?<br />
almost reaching saturation point<br />
and chocolatiers having to produce<br />
something different to stand out<br />
from the crowd. Having said that,<br />
the quality of some of these<br />
chocolate bars is far higher than it<br />
was only a few years ago. And, on<br />
a personal note, I just love the kick<br />
from the chilli after I have enjoyed a<br />
mouthful of chocolate.<br />
Retro revival<br />
Another of the fastest growing<br />
trends in recent years, almost<br />
reaching exponential proportions<br />
has been the growth in retro<br />
sweets. Hope and Greenwood<br />
pioneered this trend, and have since<br />
been followed by several lower<br />
priced copy-cat brands. However<br />
these newer brands sometimes<br />
miss the charm, fun and playfulness<br />
that Mr Greenwood and Miss Hope<br />
bring to the retro sweet market. It is<br />
not just about the products, such as<br />
flying saucers, sherbet dips and love<br />
hearts, but the way they are<br />
presented and the story behind<br />
the products.<br />
However, many of these retro<br />
products are still using E numbers<br />
and artificial colours in their<br />
products whilst the market in our<br />
sector is demanding sweets that<br />
are free from artificial flavours and<br />
colours. Even though the colours<br />
aren’t quite as vivid, it is essential<br />
that these manufacturers move<br />
with the times if this trend is going<br />
to continue growing.<br />
The premium trend is more<br />
recent and there’s been a huge<br />
increase in<br />
awareness of<br />
what constitutes quality<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong>, and an increase in<br />
the supply base too. David Hill, MD<br />
of the <strong>confectionery</strong> marketing<br />
consultancy, Cocoda Ltd says, “It’s<br />
as if the bar has been raised so<br />
that brands like Lindt or Green and<br />
Blacks, which were considered<br />
premium and even exclusive ten<br />
years ago, have since become the<br />
entry point for premium.” Mr Hill<br />
says, “While these will always be<br />
terrific products and brands, over<br />
this period, there has been an<br />
explosion in awareness and brands<br />
at a higher level such as Hotel<br />
Chocolat, Chocca Mocca, James,<br />
up to and including brands like<br />
Paul A Young, l’Artisan du<br />
Chocolat and Melt.”<br />
Some customers are now<br />
happy to pay over £3 for a 75-<br />
100g bar of chocolate whereas the<br />
most anyone would pay a few<br />
years ago was around £1.50 -<br />
£2.00. I have been approached by<br />
many producers of chocolate bars<br />
within the last year and there is a<br />
danger of proliferation without<br />
generating the volumes needed to<br />
run a successful business. It is<br />
important to distinguish between<br />
truly artisan products here and<br />
branding companies that are simply<br />
putting their own design on<br />
chocolate bars that are all<br />
produced in the same factory in<br />
Italy or Switzerland.<br />
Finally let’s consider the ‘ethical’<br />
trend that seems to cover the<br />
greatest spread of USPs. Mr Hill<br />
comments, “These are much<br />
‘softer’ and tactile cues. Organic,<br />
fair trade, provenance, single estate<br />
all lie within this category.” There are<br />
many examples covering these<br />
trends; Summerdown Mint has an<br />
unrivalled provenance story and<br />
Prestat’s support of the ESOKO<br />
scheme are just two examples, but<br />
it is wrong to assume this is only<br />
relevant to chocolate <strong>confectionery</strong>.<br />
The Natural Candy Shop range is<br />
entirely free from artificial flavours,<br />
colourings and preservatives and a<br />
new sugar <strong>confectionery</strong> range<br />
called ‘Jealous’ which says<br />
everything from ‘Happy Birthday, to<br />
I Love you, Happy Diwali,<br />
Hanukkah and Eid’, also addresses<br />
the ethical needs of many<br />
consumers.<br />
So, clearly, it is important to<br />
stock products that exhibit one or<br />
preferably more than one of the<br />
trends talked about here. If I have<br />
one tip it would be to ensure that<br />
you include some brands that have<br />
some degree of marketing behind<br />
them that will drive some volume, as<br />
well as the brands that customers<br />
may not have heard of, but will buy<br />
on appearance and interest.<br />
16 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
toffee<br />
Refashioning<br />
Flavour<br />
Traditional toffee will always have its fans,<br />
but with limited innovation in the sector,<br />
what does the future have in store?<br />
As anyone who visited<br />
<strong>Speciality</strong> & Fine <strong>Food</strong><br />
Fair 2011 will know, there<br />
was a high concentration<br />
of stands exhibiting <strong>confectionery</strong>.<br />
From exquisite Belgian chocolates<br />
to American-inspired candies, there<br />
was a massive array on offer – no<br />
doubt attracted by the newlylaunched<br />
<strong>Speciality</strong> Chocolate Fair.<br />
The numerous companies<br />
displaying old-fashioned sweets<br />
proved that the retro <strong>confectionery</strong><br />
trend is still going strong, but one<br />
sector appeared to be slightly<br />
under-represented – toffee.<br />
While companies such as<br />
William Santus & Co (owners of the<br />
Uncle Joe’s brand) and House of<br />
Dorchester offer a few lines, there<br />
doesn’t seem to be anywhere near<br />
as much excitement in this<br />
category compared to, say,<br />
gourmet fudge. We asked Emma<br />
Walker, marketing manager for<br />
historic toffee producer Walkers’<br />
Nonsuch, if this is really the case.<br />
“Unfortunately, over the past<br />
few decades many of the small,<br />
traditional toffee companies have<br />
died out,” she explains. “Bigger<br />
producers such as Thorntons and<br />
Tangerine dominate the market<br />
quite heavily, and we’ve also been<br />
up against huge price increases in<br />
sugar and butter, so things are<br />
tough, especially for the little guy.”<br />
Walkers’ Nonsuch is arguably<br />
the most well known toffee maker in<br />
the speciality sector; originating as a<br />
sweet shop in Stoke-on-Trent<br />
during the 19th Century, the<br />
company now sells a growing<br />
selection of innovative and more<br />
recognisable lines to delis, farm<br />
shops and sweet shops. “We’re a<br />
family-run company and still use the<br />
same recipe that was developed<br />
over a century ago – including<br />
whole milk and creamy butter,” says<br />
Ms Walker. Some of the company’s<br />
gift sets even include a toffee<br />
hammer, traditionally designed to<br />
break up slabs of hard toffee.<br />
If the sector is all about<br />
nostalgia, would it be fair to say that<br />
the confection appeals to older<br />
consumers? “This demographic<br />
makes up our core customer base.<br />
They are people who have probably<br />
been eating it since they were<br />
children, so it’s really important that<br />
our original recipe stays the same,”<br />
explains Ms Walker. However the<br />
company is also looking to the<br />
future. “For a heritage brand like<br />
ours, there is a difficulty in staying<br />
true to our roots, while also<br />
keeping things fresh and engaging<br />
younger customers.”<br />
Many flavoured toffees have<br />
been added to the selection over<br />
the past few years, including<br />
Chocolate, Liquorice and Banana<br />
Split. “After our English Creamy and<br />
Treacle Toffee flavours, Liquorice is<br />
probably our biggest seller. It’s<br />
made using real liquorice root,<br />
which is said to be a kind of energy<br />
booster, and customers are always<br />
telling us how they use it as a<br />
natural pick-me-up,” she says. The<br />
Banana Split flavour is also proving<br />
particularly popular among children.<br />
“We don’t use any artificial colours,<br />
preservatives or hydrogenated fats,<br />
which really appeals to parents.<br />
Sweets are should obviously only<br />
to be eaten as an occasional treat,<br />
but I think customers really<br />
appreciate the fact that our toffees<br />
only contain ingredients they<br />
recognise,” she adds.<br />
Peter Julian, sales director of<br />
Bon Bon’s, recently noticed a gap<br />
in the company’s selection for<br />
traditional toffee. “I<br />
was looking at our<br />
retro sweet packs<br />
the other day and<br />
realised that they only thing we<br />
don’t do is toffee, so it’s definitely<br />
something we’ll look into,” he<br />
explains. Bon Bon’s sells<br />
chocolate-coated cinder toffee<br />
(also known as honeycomb), but<br />
not the hard variety. “There seems<br />
to have been a lot of innovation in<br />
the fudge sector over the past<br />
year, but development in toffee<br />
seems a bit slower. Possibly<br />
because people love the classic<br />
stuff so much,” he adds.<br />
Walkers’ Nonsuch is currently<br />
developing a number of exciting<br />
new lines, but agrees that there<br />
will always be a demand for oldfashioned<br />
toffee. “<strong>Food</strong> trends<br />
come and go, but this is<br />
something that will stay strong. I<br />
don’t think consumers will ever<br />
stop buying it,” she adds.<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 17
comment<br />
Talk<br />
Trade<br />
of the<br />
Want to know the latest <strong>confectionery</strong><br />
trends? Confectionery <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
spoke to retailers about this season’s<br />
most popular products...<br />
“The best selling confections in my shop are the flying saucers, they<br />
are a sweet that all kids love but they also tap into the retro sweet<br />
market so adults ask for them too. The most extreme sweets we sell<br />
are the mega sour sweets which are incredible and come with a<br />
caution. I even got a letter from the manufacturers reminding me to<br />
remind the customers of the caution. We do a lot of things to get our<br />
name known locally. It’s a standard area of practice really. We have a<br />
stall at Nottingham theater and we try and sell our sweets at as many<br />
local events as possible. We do also put a lot of time into our window<br />
displays which we change seasonally and in time for big events such<br />
as Easter and Christmas.”<br />
Ashley Naylor, Sugar and Spice, Notthingham<br />
“We sell an awful lot of chocolate bars – our salt ones in particular are<br />
very popular. We’ve definitely got some particular flavours that are<br />
trendy such as date and ginger; orange, lemon and geranium; rose<br />
and black pepper and caramel, peanut and black pepper. We also sell<br />
a lot of broken slabs of chocolate with freeze-dried raspberries.”<br />
Kristina Currie, Coco Chocolate, Edinburgh<br />
“We do quite a lot of single origin chocolates from Peru, Madagascar,<br />
Venezuala. It’s just like wine or coffee; where provenance of the cocoa<br />
bean will really contribute to the finished product. There are so many<br />
factors; the climate, weather, the amount of rainfall they get all makes<br />
a difference. I think it’s the way forward for chocolate really and I feel<br />
people are waking up to the fact that cocoa beans will have different<br />
tastes and textures depending on where they come from. I think<br />
celebrity chocolatiers such as Willie Harcourt-Cooze have actually<br />
been really good for the industry. He has taught people to appreciate<br />
the different flavours of chocolate. Our best sellers are definitely the<br />
fresh truffles we make everyday on sight. We use locally sourced<br />
ingredients, which is really important to our customers.”<br />
Andrea Parsons, I Should Coco, St Ives<br />
“At the moment we have<br />
a local company<br />
producing chocolate<br />
exclusively for us. They do<br />
a lot of different flavours<br />
such as mint chocolate<br />
chip and peanut butter,<br />
and sell really well. We’ve<br />
just got a big American<br />
range in which features<br />
iconic <strong>confectionery</strong> such<br />
as Willy Wonka, Reese’s<br />
pieces, tootsie rolls, candy<br />
corns, and Hersheys. Also<br />
the old favourites such as<br />
rhubarb and custard are<br />
doing really well – we have<br />
over three hundred jars full<br />
of retro sweets – people<br />
see it and get excited<br />
saying, “we haven’t seen<br />
this in years!”<br />
Carrie Hope Fletcher,<br />
The Olde Sweet Shop,<br />
Norwich<br />
18 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
comment<br />
“We sell locally-produced fudge which does very well, and also a lot of<br />
traditional sweets such as Turkish delight and liquorice. Our best seller<br />
is crystallised stem ginger – both plain and chocolate-covered. The<br />
older generation tend to go for the classic ginger whereas children<br />
tend to go for as much chocolate as they can get!”<br />
Michael Foreman, Village Delicatessen, Wivenhoe<br />
"Hope and Greenwood’s current<br />
best sellers are our Jolly Mixture<br />
Funbags, Tuck Shop Jars,<br />
Rhubarb and Custard Ration<br />
Jars, and Champagne Truffles in<br />
packaging inspired by fabrics<br />
from 1890. Rather than rest on<br />
our laurels we’ve also<br />
created Fizz! Bang!<br />
Wallops! which are extremely<br />
fizzy and Foaming Blue Cherries<br />
which foam up wildly in the<br />
mouth. We see a trend in<br />
products and sweets that are warm and comforting, given this<br />
economic climate, customers are looking for things that hark back to<br />
our childhoods (or our grandparents’ childhoods) when things seemed<br />
simpler. This goes perfectly with my brand rule, ‘if my Auntie Mary had<br />
it in her pantry - then we stock it.’"<br />
Miss Hope, Hope & Greenwood, London<br />
“We sell mainly individual chocolates, and have cabinets for both<br />
classic chocolates and novelty chocolates. We’ve made a name for<br />
ourselves by ensuring that our products are always very high quality.<br />
The special themed chocolates that we sell during the holidays –<br />
Christmas, Easter and Valentines Day always do very well.”<br />
Natalie Faulkes, Monk Bar Chocolates, York<br />
“We make a chocolate which represents the goddess Minerva. In<br />
Belgium the chocolates are often made to represent someone local,<br />
maybe a mythical god or a saint. People like to identify their chocolate<br />
with something or someone who is symbolic of the place they’ve<br />
visited, like an edible souvenir. We do a lot of small individual chocolates<br />
called carraques. We have them in flower shapes; roses and violets.<br />
They’re wafer thin and people like to have them with coffee. In the<br />
summer people don’t want chocolate that is going to melt in your<br />
hands so you need something sturdy with a high melting point which<br />
can survive the hot weather. When it was the cherry season, cherries<br />
dipped in a dark chocolate were very popular. Another favourite is my<br />
big chocolate breasts that I sell in the front window. They attract quite a<br />
crowd and are a bit of fun; naughty but nice!”<br />
Philippe Wall, master chocolatier at Minerva, Bath<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 19
fairtrade<br />
Paying a<br />
Fair Price<br />
With ethical chocolate making up ten<br />
percent of all <strong>confectionery</strong> sales,<br />
Eileen Maybin of the Fairtrade<br />
Foundation reveals what steps<br />
retailers and producers are taking<br />
to further this figure<br />
Sales of UK Fairtrade<br />
chocolate have soared in the<br />
last few years as consumers<br />
can now indulge their<br />
passion for chocolate and ethics<br />
together with over 500 ethical<br />
chocolate <strong>confectionery</strong> products.<br />
The ten-fold growth in retail<br />
sales from £32m in 2008 to £343m<br />
in 2010 is largely due to mainstream<br />
brands converting popular<br />
chocolate bars like Cadbury Dairy<br />
Milk and Nestlé’s four-finger Kit Kat<br />
to Fairtrade, but it is also because of<br />
exciting innovations in the category<br />
by independent premium chocolate<br />
companies and own-label fine<br />
chocolate ranges. With the total<br />
category worth £3.2bn in 2010,<br />
Fairtrade sales now make up<br />
around ten percent of UK chocolate<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> sales.<br />
“We are delighted that the UK<br />
chocolate industry is embracing<br />
Fairtrade in this way because there<br />
is a real appetite for it among the<br />
public who want to see businesses<br />
treating farmers fairly and<br />
supporting the communities they<br />
live in,” says Harriet Lamb, executive<br />
director of the Fairtrade Foundation.<br />
“The public see buying ethical<br />
chocolate as a way to make a real<br />
difference to cocoa farmers with<br />
every purchase.”<br />
A recent survey, commissioned<br />
by the Fairtrade Foundation, found<br />
that UK consumers continue to<br />
have high expectations of how<br />
companies operate in developing<br />
countries. Over 80% of interviewees<br />
said companies should protect the<br />
environment and ensure farmers<br />
and workers are paid fairly and have<br />
safe working conditions. Fairtrade<br />
aims to improve living standards<br />
and conditions for farmers and<br />
farming communities, and so<br />
support the development of a<br />
sustainable cocoa sector.<br />
While the value of the global<br />
chocolate <strong>confectionery</strong> trade<br />
continues to grow, the benefits have<br />
not always been shared with cocoa<br />
growing communities where access<br />
to clean water, electricity, decent<br />
healthcare and education are rare.<br />
Decades of low commodity prices,<br />
exacerbated by rising farm and<br />
household expenses, mean cocoa<br />
farmers struggle to provide for their<br />
families and are unable to invest in<br />
improving the productivity or quality<br />
of their crop. Their children are often<br />
seeing no future in the cocoa<br />
industry, and are therefore deserting<br />
the farms and moving to the cities.<br />
As a result the industry could soon<br />
see a decline in production and face<br />
a shortage of its vital ingredient.<br />
By participating in Fairtrade, the<br />
farmers benefit from a stable price<br />
that enables them to plan their<br />
family and household budgets.<br />
Their cooperatives are able to<br />
access pre-financing, develop longterm<br />
partnerships with chocolate<br />
companies, develop their farming<br />
businesses, strengthen their<br />
organisations, and invest the<br />
premium in much needed<br />
community development.<br />
Divine Chocolate, the chocolate<br />
company which has always blazed<br />
a trail for Fairtrade being part-owned<br />
by the 63,000 small-scale cocoa<br />
farmers of the Kuapa Kokoo cooperative<br />
in Ghana, continues to<br />
introduce new Fairtrade products to<br />
its range and develop creative ideas<br />
to improve its existing products and<br />
modernise its marketing.<br />
Cake maker to the stars, Lily<br />
Vanilli says, “With Divine, you’re<br />
drawn to them because their<br />
products are Fairtrade, but once<br />
you’ve tried it, it’s all about the<br />
chocolate.” The range of 12<br />
chocolate flavours, in 100g bars,<br />
includes Dark Chocolate with<br />
Ginger & Orange, White Chocolate<br />
with Strawberries, and Hazelnut<br />
Milk Chocolate.<br />
This year Divine has also<br />
changed the look of its chocolate.<br />
The bars now feature traditional<br />
Adinkra symbols, evoking Divine’s<br />
Ghanian heritage. The motifs carry<br />
meanings which reflect ancient<br />
proverbs, human characteristics,<br />
and historical events. And, in a bid<br />
to remain current, Divine recently<br />
announced the launch of the new<br />
Divine Chocolate App for iPhone<br />
and iPad, designed by creative<br />
agency Uber London.<br />
The Co-operative supermarket<br />
has enjoyed a long and commited<br />
relationship with Divine Chocolate.<br />
Over the years significant benefits<br />
have been delivered to communities<br />
in Ghana thanks to The Cooperative<br />
customers. The most<br />
recent investment has seen the<br />
building of a three-classroom block<br />
and ‘The Co-operative House’, in<br />
New Koforidua where the people of<br />
the town host paying guests and<br />
can add tourism income to their<br />
farming livelihoods as well as<br />
enjoying the building as a new<br />
community centre.<br />
And, it is not just supermarkets<br />
that have started to focus more on<br />
20 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
Fairtrade brands. Chocolatier,<br />
Thorntons also continue to bring out<br />
new Fairtrade offerings, recently<br />
introducing three new 80g blocks:<br />
Fairtrade Milk Banana Chocolate<br />
Block, using Fairtrade organic<br />
bananas from Ecuador; Fairtrade<br />
White Choc Block with Vanilla, and<br />
Dark Apricot Chocolate Block;<br />
where the sweet Fairtrade organic<br />
apricots from the Hunza Valley of<br />
Pakistan add a twist to the hazelnut<br />
notes of the organic dark chocolate.<br />
The first ever fairly traded<br />
chocolate to arrive on UK shop<br />
shelves in 1994 was the premium<br />
chocolate brand Green & Black’s<br />
Maya Gold bar which is made with<br />
organic cocoa from Belize. This year<br />
again, Green & Black’s set an<br />
industry standard, announcing news<br />
of Fairtrade certification across its<br />
entire block bar offering. Neil La<br />
Croix, head of sustainability,<br />
explains, “Green & Black’s is a<br />
brand which was built on ethical<br />
principles, and will continue to do<br />
Image: Simon Rawles<br />
Image: Gary Roberts<br />
so, recognising the incredibly<br />
important role that the suppliers<br />
have to play in helping us to create<br />
the quality product that everyone<br />
knows and loves. The cost of<br />
trading fairly and securing supplies<br />
ethically makes good business<br />
sense, and this is a principle shared<br />
by Fairtrade with whom we have<br />
had a long-standing relationship”.<br />
Meanwhile the ethical artisan<br />
chocolate producers who choose<br />
Fairtrade as it fits with its brand<br />
identify continue to come up with<br />
new fun ideas. Cocoa Loco, the<br />
small family firm who started up its<br />
business from its kitchen in West<br />
Sussex aiming to make premium<br />
treats in an accessible and<br />
affordable style, has recently added<br />
a Dark Chocolate & Mint Hot<br />
Chocolate Spoon to the range of<br />
three others.The 30g of chocolate<br />
can be eaten off the wooden spoon<br />
or stirred into hot milk to make a hot<br />
chocolate drink.<br />
Gourmet chocolatier Feeding<br />
Your Imagination, who say it<br />
produces chocolate with<br />
therapeutic oils and herbs to<br />
promote inner well-being, has just<br />
launched a ‘Traditional’ range of<br />
three bars in classic dark, milk or<br />
‘secret’. The pre-packed chocolate<br />
giftbox contains the three 85g bars.<br />
And, nothing quite says ‘gifts’ like<br />
bespoke chocolates from<br />
Chocolala. Handmade and handpackaged<br />
Chocolala chocolates<br />
highlight extravagance with its<br />
chocolate mango sticks and white<br />
chocolate tulips.<br />
All of these chocolatey<br />
developments mean that more and<br />
more farmers have been able to<br />
participate in the Fairtrade system<br />
and sell more of their crop on ethical<br />
terms. Now 62 Fairtrade certified<br />
producer organisations represent<br />
more than 120,000 farmers across<br />
18 countries from the Dominican<br />
Republic to Haiti, and Sierra Leone<br />
to Sri Lanka.<br />
This year has seen challenges<br />
to the cocoa farmers in Côte<br />
d’Ivoire where the post-election<br />
violence brought misery to many<br />
rural communities. However,<br />
Fairtrade is supporting producers to<br />
develop a recovery programme.<br />
Meanwhile the grassroots<br />
consumer base continues to grow<br />
in the UK with 520 Fairtrade Towns<br />
where strong networks of schools,<br />
faith groups and workplaces actively<br />
promote Fairtrade, meaning that<br />
recognition of the mark has grown<br />
to 77% of UK consumers and nine<br />
out of ten consumers trust<br />
Fairtrade. The Fairtrade Foundation<br />
hopes that, as more and more UK<br />
consumers see purchasing<br />
Fairtrade goods as a powerful and<br />
credible way of reducing poverty<br />
through their everyday shopping,<br />
chocolate sales will continue to<br />
grow so that more cocoa<br />
communities benefit.<br />
Divine Chocolate is a brand that’s<br />
won hearts and minds – and offers<br />
a great range of flavours that look<br />
fabulous on retailers’ shelves<br />
profile<br />
Divine&<br />
Delicious<br />
In Divine, chocolate lovers<br />
have discovered a perfect<br />
combination – delicious rich<br />
smooth natural chocolate,<br />
with all sorts of exciting flavours to<br />
choose from – and a company<br />
shoppers can believe in.<br />
Divine puts product excellence<br />
and choice first – with a great range<br />
of bars and an exceptional selection<br />
of seasonal specialities and gifts that<br />
grows every year. Chocolate lovers<br />
expect good chocolate from the<br />
brand, but they also love that Divine<br />
is an independent company owned<br />
by cocoa farmers, proving that it’s<br />
possible, and fun, to do business<br />
differently. Whether it’s sponsorship<br />
of Chocolate Week, being the<br />
official chocolate bar at Glastonbury,<br />
entering the Divine Women Awards,<br />
teaching Fairtrade at schools – or<br />
just chatting to Divine on Facebook<br />
– there are many ways people join<br />
and enjoy the world of Divine.<br />
Interesting flavours<br />
Divine’s stand-out flavours – such<br />
as dark chocolate with raspberry,<br />
white chocolate with strawberry,<br />
and dark chocolate with ginger and<br />
orange have all been huge hits, and<br />
new delights are in the pipeline. To<br />
make the moment you open a bar<br />
even more Divine, the chocolate<br />
mould now features<br />
the Adinkra symbols<br />
you’ll recognise from<br />
the packaging. They<br />
represent Divine’s<br />
Ghanaian roots and<br />
each one has its<br />
own meaning.<br />
For Christmas<br />
the company is<br />
introducing solid chocolate discs in<br />
two flavours – dark with raspberry<br />
and dark with mint – both in pretty<br />
gift boxes, and the most beautiful<br />
illustration yet on its popular Advent<br />
Calendar. Next year you can expect<br />
some tasty additions to the<br />
Valentine and Easter range, as well<br />
as thicker shelled chocolate eggs.<br />
The cocoa in Divine is sourced<br />
directly from Ghana: grown,<br />
harvested, fermented and dried with<br />
care by the farmers who take great<br />
pride in the chocolate company<br />
they own. In turn, the people at<br />
Divine take their inspiration from the<br />
cooperative that voted to start the<br />
company, and from those who help<br />
to spread the message. And, it’s not<br />
just individuals who pass the word<br />
on – Divine is also lucky enough to<br />
be the partner of choice for a variety<br />
of big brands who want to reward<br />
its customers, add value, and grow<br />
their business.<br />
Image: Brian Moody<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 21
interview<br />
Meet the<br />
Buyer<br />
Few chocolate shops boast a<br />
church altar as a centrepiece.<br />
Then again, Paul A. Young is<br />
radically different to most<br />
chocolatiers and his new shop in Soho<br />
is a unique space, says Steven Pierce<br />
Appropriately for retail<br />
premises in the heart of<br />
Theatreland, Paul’s new<br />
shop has more than a<br />
touch of the theatrical about it. “It<br />
doesn’t look like any other shop on<br />
the street,” he tells me in the<br />
whitewashed basement kitchen of<br />
143 Wardour Street. “It has a<br />
dramatic front but it’s not overly<br />
designed. It’s a very clean-lined<br />
shop front. It is purple – very purple<br />
– and has big windows right down<br />
to the floor. When you stand there,<br />
you can’t miss it. After all having an<br />
altar in your shop is very theatrical!”<br />
Paul is one of the world’s most<br />
respected chocolatiers. He has won<br />
dozens of awards from the<br />
Academy of Chocolate and his<br />
publication, Adventures With<br />
Chocolate won World’s Best<br />
Chocolate Book at last year’s<br />
Gourmand Cookbook Awards.<br />
Since he and business partner<br />
James Cronin opened their first<br />
chocolaterie in Islington in 2006,<br />
Paul has become synonymous with<br />
unusual, daring and exciting flavour<br />
combinations. Chocolates flavoured<br />
with ingredients such as Stilton,<br />
Marmite and Stout have made him<br />
famous and continue to distinguish<br />
him from London’s other artisan<br />
chocolatiers, and to provide him<br />
with a crucial point of difference.<br />
Paul is the first of London’s new<br />
wave of artisan chocolatiers to open<br />
a third shop, and he attributes the<br />
success of his stores to the quality of<br />
his ever-changing range of products,<br />
which helps ensure repeat custom.<br />
Paul’s chocolates are handmade<br />
with the finest seasonal ingredients,<br />
and many are sourced locally. These<br />
qualities are clearly manifested in his<br />
stunning new Summer Collection,<br />
launched to coincide with the<br />
opening of the new shop. Paul’s<br />
creativity is expressed in delicious yet<br />
unexpected combinations such as<br />
limoncello and parsley; coconut<br />
water and lemon grass; tomato, basil<br />
and olive oil; goat’s cheese, rosemary<br />
and lemon; orange and tarragon;<br />
and Kernel Brewery stout with dark<br />
muscovado – a particular highlight.<br />
Location, location<br />
I ask Paul why he chose Soho as the<br />
location of his flagship chocolaterie.<br />
“James and I always wanted to be in<br />
Soho,” he explains. “We both used to<br />
work in Soho and I love the feel of the<br />
place and the people: they’re creative,<br />
they’re edgy, they’re foodie. It was just<br />
a question of finding a location in<br />
Soho that I could afford and that<br />
would work, with the right dimensions<br />
and kitchen space. Everything we’ve<br />
worked for in the past five years has<br />
gone into this shop so it had to work<br />
on every single level.”<br />
Despite Soho becoming<br />
something of a foodie area in recent<br />
years, Paul isn’t worried about the<br />
prospect of competition. “I don’t<br />
think we have any competition here<br />
because we don’t do anything that<br />
anyone else does,” he insists.<br />
“There are cupcake shops,<br />
bakeries, patisseries, delicatessens<br />
and restaurants, but no chocolate<br />
shops. I think it’s a good mix; we<br />
complement each other. The<br />
feedback from customers so far has<br />
been that they’re glad we’re here.”<br />
While the chocolates in Paul’s<br />
new chocolaterie perpetuate the<br />
gastronomic principles for which he<br />
has become so respected, the<br />
shop itself has its own identity. It<br />
may carry Paul’s signature deep<br />
purple colour, but his new flagship is<br />
larger and more dramatic than his<br />
Islington and City of London shops,<br />
which feel more intimate by<br />
comparison. Upon stepping into his<br />
Soho chocolaterie, customers are<br />
greeted by a large central wooden<br />
table used to showcase the<br />
Summer Collection. “I wanted the<br />
chocolates to be on show, not<br />
behind glass,” Paul explains.<br />
He clearly put a lot of thought<br />
into the design of the chocolaterie.<br />
“It was not a generic shop fit,” Paul<br />
recalls. “I believe that I cannot brief a<br />
designer to deliver the kind of shop<br />
that I want. If I can find things myself,<br />
it might take longer, but then I am<br />
not confined. It wasn’t a shop fit<br />
where everything’s fixed; everything<br />
is movable, so the layout of the shop<br />
could change. One day I might think<br />
that the brownies should be in the<br />
other window; we might decide that<br />
the chocolates should be on the<br />
altar. It just means that we have<br />
flexibility. You don’t want to invest all<br />
that money in something that’s<br />
attached to the walls and then<br />
realise it’s not quite working.<br />
“Everything in the shop has<br />
been picked by me,” he continues.<br />
“There’s a lot of my personality in<br />
there. They’re all different pieces of<br />
furniture, either recycled, up-cycled<br />
or handmade. I found the wallpaper<br />
[which is adorned with black and<br />
white cocoa pods] in Cole & Son<br />
and knew I had to have it. The<br />
beautiful glass cabinet with the<br />
brownies on is from a 1910 Parisian<br />
shop counter. Some of it was very<br />
last minute: the altar arrived in the<br />
last week or so, and so did the<br />
table [July 2011]. The dresser came<br />
five days ago. It was very last<br />
minute because you can’t buy it all<br />
together then put it in and realise it<br />
doesn’t work.<br />
22 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
interview<br />
“Before the first week of<br />
opening, we had no products in the<br />
shop. We just had all the furniture<br />
and a sign saying when we were<br />
opening. And people were stopping<br />
and looking in, just at the props we<br />
had in the shop, and the décor. If<br />
you had those pieces in your home,<br />
it wouldn’t work because they’re all<br />
very different – but it’s a eye-catching<br />
look in retail. Nothing looks the same<br />
but they’re all very interesting in their<br />
“We needed a big<br />
counter, then we<br />
saw this altar and<br />
thought that it<br />
would fit”<br />
own way, in an architectural and<br />
structural sense. I could live in a<br />
house that’s split down the middle:<br />
modern on one side and classic on<br />
the other, and that’s what I tried to do<br />
with the shop.”<br />
Getting the<br />
atmosphere right<br />
I tell Paul that walking into his new<br />
chocolaterie feels like entering<br />
someone’s home, perhaps his own.<br />
“I’ve seen this shop since it was<br />
absolutely rotten,” he tells me. “I’ve<br />
grown with it. When I walk in, it feels<br />
like me, so I don’t see it quite as<br />
dramatically as other people. I see<br />
everything that’s in the shop as<br />
something I would personally own.<br />
Especially the chandelier! It was<br />
made by a lady who owns a<br />
company called Roast Designs. It’s<br />
a very small company: she makes<br />
everything herself down in Herne<br />
Hill. She has all the glass made to<br />
her specifications. So we had a<br />
consultation about the size, shape,<br />
colours and textures. That was an<br />
exciting project because the<br />
chandelier is one of the focal points<br />
of the room. If that wasn’t right then<br />
it could have spoiled the room.”<br />
If the chandelier is one of the<br />
chocolaterie’s focal points, the<br />
church altar is certainly the most<br />
unusual. “There’s been a mixed<br />
reaction to the altar,” Paul<br />
concedes. “One lady said, ‘I’m not<br />
really sure you should have an altar.’<br />
Some people feel on a personal<br />
level that it’s not quite right. But I<br />
don’t see it as being something<br />
shocking or out of the ordinary.”<br />
So Paul didn’t choose the altar<br />
to make an explicit statement about<br />
religion? “Not at all,” he insists. “We<br />
needed a big counter, then we saw<br />
this altar and thought that it would<br />
fit. People do say, ‘I worship your<br />
chocolates’ so we just saw it and<br />
thought ‘yes’. And it’s got a ‘P’ and<br />
an ‘A’ on the front, very oddly. It just<br />
fitted as soon as we saw it. That<br />
was the first big piece of furniture<br />
we picked and it looks lovely<br />
against that wall. It won’t fit<br />
anywhere else in the shop though! I<br />
love it. When I retire or sell the<br />
business, I will take that with me. It’ll<br />
become a dining table or a<br />
breakfast bar!”<br />
Paul strikes me as the kind of<br />
person who would find it difficult to<br />
step away from his business, such<br />
is his passion and attention to detail.<br />
I tell him that I can’t envisage him<br />
ever selling the Paul A. Young<br />
brand. “In ten, 15 or 20 years, the<br />
point will come when I’ll want to be<br />
the creative director but not making<br />
chocolates every day,” he thinks.<br />
“The business will evolve and move<br />
on. I am a workaholic, but I’m not<br />
OCD with it: I can have a day out of<br />
the business and not feel tied to it.”<br />
For now, however, Paul is<br />
focused on his new flagship<br />
chocolaterie. “This is my space now<br />
until my team are up and running,<br />
fully trained and know what they’re<br />
doing, then I can float between the<br />
three,” he says. Paul also claims that<br />
he can’t envisage opening any more<br />
shops in London. That may be<br />
unfortunate news for chocolate<br />
connoisseurs living in the Capital, but<br />
for those living elsewhere, it offers the<br />
exciting – if distant – prospect of Paul<br />
A. Young’s incredible creations<br />
finding a wider audience.<br />
Steven Pierce is a food writer<br />
and can be contacted via<br />
www.stevensfoodieadventures.<br />
blogspot.com or<br />
www.facebook.com/adventure<br />
sofafoodie and<br />
www.twitter.com/#!/Aoa<strong>Food</strong>ie<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 23
opinion<br />
Going<br />
Against<br />
Most well-known British chocolatiers<br />
are firstly male and secondly situated<br />
in London. Shelly Preston, owner of<br />
Boutique Aromatique discusses<br />
how she is breaking conventions<br />
The capital has been quick<br />
to recognise the beauty of<br />
a fine chocolaterie.<br />
Chocolate savvy<br />
department stores such as Fortnum<br />
& Mason and Selfridges are hot on<br />
the heels of new chocolate talent<br />
and house some of the finest niche<br />
brands from around the world.<br />
Boutique hotels are also fast<br />
recognising the merits of fine<br />
chocolate and are beginning to<br />
present their guests with pillow gifts<br />
of ‘the real thing’. But what about<br />
outside of London? What is the real<br />
thing and where can we buy it in the<br />
East Midlands? The sad truth is,<br />
barely anywhere and certainly not on<br />
most high streets. But, this attitude<br />
has started to change, with<br />
chocolatiers such as Shelly Preston<br />
making an appearance in retail.<br />
Setting up shop in July 2011,<br />
Shelly currently owns a chocolate<br />
boutique which adjoins the Welbeck<br />
Farm Shop. The store is in an<br />
award-winning, contemporary/rustic,<br />
glass-fronted building on one of<br />
Britain’s finest family owned estates<br />
(Welbeck in Nottinghamshire). Here<br />
the Grain<br />
Shelly comments on her latest<br />
venture. “The decision to make our<br />
first foray into retail in a rural location<br />
was a very easy one. North<br />
Nottinghamshire is in my bones. I<br />
was born and raised here and now<br />
live just ten minutes away from<br />
Welbeck. And, although I hadn’t<br />
lived in the area for nearly 20 years,<br />
most of my family still do so I have<br />
natural affinity and easy rapport with<br />
local people.”<br />
Distinct training<br />
Shelly was privately trained with one<br />
of the current UK’s chocolate<br />
masters, ‘John Costello’ and<br />
subsequently qualified with distinction<br />
as a patissier. Shelly immersed<br />
herself in the technicalities and<br />
nuances of working with chocolate in<br />
her beloved, purpose built chocolate<br />
lab and sought out the finest food<br />
ingredients and oils that have always<br />
inspired her until she was finally ready<br />
to launch her own chocolate<br />
collection. “Over the years I learned<br />
to identify good chocolate from bad,<br />
the beauty from the beast and<br />
acquired the skill essential to match<br />
favour with flavour,” she says.<br />
After many happy years and<br />
successes in London and spurredon<br />
by a move back to her home<br />
county of Nottinghamshire, the time<br />
felt right to turn her growing passion<br />
for chocolate into reality. Shelly began<br />
her chocolate career running a<br />
monthly stall at a successful spring<br />
market in Welbeck Estate, but due to<br />
popular demand it was soon<br />
migrated to bi-weekly. After realising<br />
where her strengths lie, Shelly<br />
decided to set up shop at Welbeck;<br />
she describes the location.<br />
“We share a walled courtyard<br />
with an art gallery and café – both<br />
housed in impressive, converted<br />
original stone buildings – so it was<br />
important to us that whilst we set<br />
ourselves apart we also struck a<br />
careful balance between old and<br />
new. We kept the warmth and<br />
rusticity of the bare brick, stone walls<br />
and terracotta floors which are a<br />
distinctive feature of the farm shop<br />
and merged our style within.<br />
“Boutique Aromatique branding<br />
has a slight vintage feel but I had to<br />
resist the temptation of making the<br />
nostalgic references too obvious. The<br />
resulting backdrop of sleek, white<br />
fittings with duck egg blue quarry<br />
tiled counters provides an elegance<br />
and freshness. It allows me to add<br />
fresh floral displays and the vintage<br />
elements I love such as art deco wall<br />
vases, sandwich plates and<br />
traditional weighing scales – without<br />
it looking too cutesy. Contrasted with<br />
warm woods, corian signage and<br />
modern, acrylic point of sale we<br />
seem to have found the right mix of<br />
materials which reflects our brand<br />
and also rubs along quite nicely with<br />
the farm shop,” she says.<br />
Shelly comments on how she<br />
wanted to make her designs stand<br />
out from the traditional way<br />
24 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
chocolate shops are presented. “The<br />
overwhelming majority of my<br />
chocolate heros and inspirations are<br />
male and it shows in their<br />
presentation and branding which is<br />
so often brown/black, dark and<br />
mysterious in some way. The idea of<br />
chocolate as a secret society does<br />
not appeal to me at all and actually,<br />
demystifying chocolate and breaking<br />
down some of the pretensions to my<br />
customers is important. I want<br />
lightness, colour, openness,<br />
modernity and beauty to carry<br />
through everything we do.<br />
“Also, I wasn’t afraid of Boutique<br />
Aromatique having an overtly<br />
feminine appeal. That is not to say I<br />
am ignoring men. Men are incredibly<br />
passionate about ‘real’ chocolate<br />
and actually, I find them much more<br />
experimental and open to new<br />
flavours than women, but female<br />
shoppers still account for the majority<br />
of chocolate sales.” With a<br />
background working as a product<br />
developer in the independent beauty<br />
and well-being industry, Shelley<br />
believes she has a greater<br />
understanding of women’s<br />
psychology than men. “The industry I<br />
previously worked in gave me direct<br />
access to many women who<br />
appreciate a little luxury – whether it<br />
be buying an artisan perfume or<br />
shopping in great apothecaries and<br />
beauty halls. I therefore felt a<br />
responsibility to create a pleasant<br />
environment and in-store experience<br />
for them,” says Shelly.<br />
Delivering a<br />
unique service<br />
As well as creating an inviting<br />
atmosphere exteriorly in her shop,<br />
Shelly further comments on how<br />
she delivers great customer service.<br />
“I am at the boutique most days,<br />
either serving or working in my<br />
prep/finishing space at the farm<br />
shop so I’m usually around to speak<br />
to customers. Approachable,<br />
honest and enthusiastic would best<br />
“The idea of chocolate as a secret society<br />
does not appeal to me at all and actually,<br />
demystifying chocolate and breaking<br />
down some of the pretensions to my<br />
customers is important”<br />
describe our attitude to service.<br />
Customers ask all kinds of<br />
questions from what to drink with a<br />
particular chocolate to how to make<br />
a good sweet paste and I’m always<br />
happy to share my knowledge.<br />
“In keeping with slaying<br />
chocolate pretences I will very often<br />
temper the complexity of a flavour in<br />
order for it to not appear alien.<br />
Describing my Yuzu, Tangerine, Pink<br />
Grapefruit and Pimento Berry flavour<br />
as a classic ‘citrus and spice’<br />
combination with an almost<br />
Christmassy feel is a classic example<br />
of how we communicate. This is in<br />
no way meant to dumb-down or<br />
patronise, merely to create a space<br />
of familiarity in which the customer is<br />
happy to venture. For any budding<br />
chocolatier or burgeoning<br />
connoisseur, recommending the right<br />
book at the correct stage in their<br />
opinion<br />
journey can change everything for<br />
them and I personally find that very<br />
satisfying,” she says.<br />
To introduce more customers to<br />
the world of chocolate Shelly believes<br />
shoppers should be given as much<br />
as knowledge as possible. “I want<br />
my customers to have a greater<br />
understanding about the chocolate<br />
we use in our recipes and I have<br />
found that retailing branded bars<br />
from my suppliers works incredibly<br />
well. The connection between what I<br />
do and what the producer does<br />
becomes tangible.” As well as<br />
offering fresh chocolates and<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 25
opinion<br />
patisserie, the chocolatier also makes<br />
her own hot chocolate and<br />
marshmallow and pate du fruits<br />
confections, which are all very<br />
popular. The books and luxury larder<br />
ingredients also service the baking<br />
enthusiast well, while the gourmet<br />
popcorn ‘adds a little bit of fun’ to<br />
the shop’s offer.<br />
By fulfilling customers’ needs<br />
and getting to know the clientèle<br />
in a relatively short space of time,<br />
Shelly has acquired a fair amount<br />
of regulars which have warranted<br />
her success so far. “At first, the<br />
thought of opening my first<br />
boutique on the high street<br />
terrified me. Relying on passing<br />
trade is tough and can be soul<br />
destroying. It can take years to<br />
build up your regular flow of<br />
customers so there is no doubt<br />
that the prospect of an almost<br />
guaranteed customer footfall<br />
coming into the farm shop was an<br />
enormously attractive prospect for<br />
my fledgling business. Also, the<br />
old adage ‘stick to what you<br />
know’ never felt more relevant. I<br />
understand my local customer,<br />
how they live and where they<br />
come from and that knowledge<br />
has played a huge part in the early<br />
success of Boutique Aromatique.<br />
In addition, Welbeck is a fantastic<br />
place to visit so we have the<br />
fortune of capitalising on a steady<br />
tourist trade. It works for us.”<br />
Leading, not following<br />
In terms of future trends, what does<br />
Shelly think is popular at the moment<br />
and what does she predict for the<br />
future? “I spent 12 years living in the<br />
capital so I can speak with some<br />
authority that trends are much more<br />
geographically and demographically<br />
lead than trendsetters would have us<br />
believe. Regardless of the glut of<br />
food journalism and TV cookery<br />
programmes, ideas and concepts<br />
don’t always resonate with the<br />
average person. I’m a big believer in<br />
not following trends.<br />
“It’s fair to say that the race for<br />
salted caramels will run and<br />
run..particularly outside of the capital<br />
as it’s still a novel concept; in the<br />
Midlands anyway. I certainly agree<br />
with Sara Jayne Stanes that not<br />
enough of us (chocolatiers) are<br />
creating collections of plain, individual<br />
chocolates and truffles. I’m as guilty as<br />
the next for conjuring-up multi-layered<br />
flavours whilst ignoring the beauty of<br />
plain chococolate which, as we know,<br />
when excellently cultivated and cared<br />
for bursts and pops with flavours all<br />
on its own. I’d therefore like to see a<br />
growing trend for celebrating the ‘not<br />
so plain’ chocolate...wouldn’t you?”<br />
concludes Shelly.<br />
For more information about<br />
the new shop please see<br />
www.boutiquearomatique.com<br />
or call 01623 812 532.<br />
26 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
Royalty<br />
Chocolate<br />
Cyprus may not be renowned for its<br />
chocolate, but one tiny retailer is<br />
creating a storm with its unusual<br />
confection – made using local royal jelly<br />
From goji berries to green tea,<br />
so-called ‘superfoods’ have<br />
dominated the health pages<br />
of magazines and<br />
newspapers for years. Confectionery<br />
companies have also taken<br />
advantage of the trend, combining<br />
dried fruits, seeds and even speciality<br />
teas with chocolate to create<br />
sweets that appeal to more health<br />
conscious consumers.<br />
Cyprus Chocolate, a small<br />
chocolate retailer and producer, has<br />
been creating its own variety of<br />
‘health-giving’ confectionary – called<br />
Flava Chocolates, made using<br />
locally-sourced royal jelly – for over a<br />
decade. Owners Praxi and John<br />
Adams had a successful hospitality<br />
business in London, but decided to<br />
move back to Cyprus (Praxi’s<br />
homeland) to enjoy their retirement.<br />
However, this was short-lived when<br />
John – a trained chocolatier –<br />
stumbled upon a new and exciting<br />
way to make chocolate. “Fresh isn’t<br />
readily available in Cyprus, so making<br />
a truffle or ganache filling without it is<br />
quite difficult,” starts Praxi. “However,<br />
condensed milk is incredibly popular<br />
here and John struck upon the idea<br />
of combining it with cocoa. He called<br />
it ‘Cypriot ganache’ and this simple<br />
recipe is now used all over the island<br />
and worldwide.”<br />
Historic superfoods<br />
The addition of royal jelly was actually<br />
inspired by a centuries-old local<br />
tradition. “Eating royal jelly as a health<br />
supplement may be quite a new idea<br />
in the UK, but Cypriot people have<br />
been doing it for a very long time.<br />
According to many of the older men<br />
in our village, it is a natural<br />
aphrodisiac!” she laughs. While<br />
research into the health benefits of<br />
the ingredient is only in its early<br />
stages, early findings reveal<br />
numerous helpful qualities.<br />
It is a very rich source of<br />
proteins and contains<br />
essential amino acids,<br />
important fatty acids, sugars,<br />
vitamins and minerals, and<br />
has also been found to have<br />
cholesterol-lowering, antiinflammatory,<br />
wound-healing,<br />
and antibiotic effects on humans.<br />
“Royal jelly is a bit like very thick honey<br />
in texture; it’s an amazing ingredient<br />
and is packed with natural goodness.<br />
Queen bees live exclusively on the jelly<br />
and it accounts for their incredible<br />
longevity. Amazingly they live 40 times<br />
longer than worker bees – seven<br />
years as opposed to seven weeks,”<br />
says Praxi.<br />
The health benefits may be<br />
appealing, but indulgent chocolates<br />
will only sell if they taste delicious.<br />
“Royal jelly itself tastes of very little<br />
and we only add a tiny amount to<br />
each single chocolate; just enough<br />
to fit on the end of a cocktail stick.”<br />
Each chocolate retails for around €2,<br />
but the store’s customers certainly<br />
believe they’re worth it. “We have so<br />
many regulars who rave about the<br />
health benefits of the sweets. One<br />
lady who lives locally swears by<br />
having one every day! Chocolate<br />
itself releases endorphins in the same<br />
way as chilli peppers – it’s like a<br />
natural anti-depressant – but the<br />
addition of royal jelly makes it even<br />
more luxurious.”<br />
Using locally-sourced fare is a<br />
priority for Praxi and John; the royal<br />
jelly is sourced from local beekeepers<br />
and the other ingredients used to<br />
make the different varieties of<br />
chocolate are indigenous to Cyprus.<br />
The company uses specialities such<br />
as black cherries, Cypriot wine,<br />
preserved oranges and Zivania, a<br />
local spirit made from grapes, to fill<br />
thick chocolate cups, made from<br />
single origin South American cacao<br />
beans. “Modern British consumers<br />
are increasingly looking for delicious<br />
chocolate that is also good for you,<br />
and this is exactly what we do,”<br />
adds Mrs Adams.<br />
An iconic French luxury food brand,<br />
Fauchon, is soon to be available in<br />
the UK and Eire via exclusive<br />
distributor Coles Trading<br />
profile<br />
Specialities<br />
fromFrance<br />
Founded in Paris by<br />
Auguste Fauchon in<br />
1886, Fauchon is a<br />
longstanding symbol<br />
of French gastronomic<br />
excellence. Building on its<br />
original commitment to quality<br />
and exclusiveness Fauchon<br />
has, in recent years, gained a<br />
reputation for innovation and has<br />
reinvented itself as one of the<br />
leading forces in contemporary<br />
French culinary culture.<br />
The expertise, passion and<br />
audacious creativity of the chefs at<br />
Fauchon’s bakery, patisserie and<br />
delicatessen in Place de la<br />
Madeleine are internationally<br />
renowned.<br />
These culinary<br />
specialists<br />
work with<br />
the best<br />
growers, traditional<br />
French craftsmen and the very<br />
finest ingredients to create an<br />
extensive Fauchon range of<br />
packaged sweet and savoury<br />
products for sale all over the world.<br />
Over 200 items from the range<br />
will be available in the UK and Eire<br />
from October 2011 including<br />
flavoured teas and coffee; spices &<br />
condiments; parfums de sauce: fruit<br />
flavoured oils and vinegars; fruit<br />
preserves, honeys, biscuits and<br />
champagne. The finest quality,<br />
flavour and originality permeate the<br />
whole selection.<br />
But, it is the exceptional range<br />
of <strong>confectionery</strong> which is the<br />
flagship for the Fauchon brand.<br />
All products within this<br />
assortment are<br />
exquisitely packaged<br />
and include milk<br />
and dark chocolate<br />
bars, truffles,<br />
pralinés, nougats,<br />
caramels, fruit jellies,<br />
calissons and<br />
marrons glacés.<br />
The numbered series<br />
(No.1 to No. 6) of chocolate<br />
mini bars, tablets and cubes<br />
provides a perfect self-treat or an<br />
informal, everyday gift. Mendiants –<br />
a traditional speciality with dried fruit<br />
and nuts – are a real highlight. And,<br />
the selection of giftboxes, including<br />
several heart-shaped tins, are<br />
perfect for special occasions such<br />
as Christmas and Valentine’s Day.<br />
Commenting on Fauchon’s<br />
launch at the recent <strong>Speciality</strong><br />
Chocolate Fair at London’s Olympia,<br />
Tim Coles, managing director of<br />
Coles Trading said, “I am absolutely<br />
delighted with the<br />
quality of the contacts<br />
made and we are now<br />
looking forward to<br />
partnering with fine<br />
food retailers to<br />
establish the Fauchon<br />
brand and develop it<br />
to its full potential.”<br />
Fauchon is the first<br />
of a number of<br />
fine French and<br />
Italian brands which<br />
will form the<br />
Coles Trading<br />
product<br />
portfolio over the<br />
coming months.<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 27
asian sweets<br />
Eastern<br />
Delights<br />
Big retail chains such as Thorntons are<br />
creating chocolate boxes specially for<br />
Eid and Diwali; but what can smaller<br />
confectioners do to meet the demand?<br />
Louise investigates Indian sweets<br />
Entering an Indian sweet<br />
house is a breath-taking<br />
experience. Imagine bold<br />
colours, swirling patterns<br />
and eye-catching designs all coated<br />
in a haze of sugar, and, there you<br />
have a taste of Indian <strong>confectionery</strong>.<br />
In this part of the world,<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> is made with visual<br />
appeal very much at its crux. Of<br />
course flavour matters, but<br />
essentially its main purpose is to<br />
stand out at parties, weddings and,<br />
of course religious celebrations such<br />
as Diwali. It is true that an alluring<br />
display of sweets is what makes<br />
one occasion distinct from another,<br />
and according to food writer and<br />
cookery teacher Monisha<br />
Bharadwa, “There are no specific<br />
dishes you eat in Diwali but you<br />
must eat sweets, at the end of the<br />
occasion you should be completely<br />
sweeted-out.”<br />
Special occasions<br />
As with many British celebrations,<br />
food forms a big part of the event.<br />
And, Diwali is no acceptance with<br />
sweets and festivities going hand-inhand.<br />
Indeed, this colourful<br />
<strong>confectionery</strong> calls for a celebration,<br />
and many Indian sweet shops<br />
(mithai makers) throughout the UK<br />
rejoice when the calender turns to<br />
the busy months of October and<br />
November. “We have people lining<br />
up on the sidewalk and waiting on<br />
the curb,” said Anum Butt, whose<br />
family owns Al-Karam Sweets and<br />
whose father is a third-generation<br />
mithai maker from Pakistan. “It’s<br />
such an exciting feel,” she says.<br />
Many specialist stores<br />
celebrate the ‘Festival of Light’ by<br />
decorating their shops, wearing<br />
traditional attire and even<br />
introducing ‘limited edition’<br />
varieties. Having been open since<br />
1978 and employing a team of over<br />
50 staff members, Mr Ismail,<br />
manager of Sweetmart in Bristol,<br />
knows a thing or two about about<br />
turning a profit from sugared treats.<br />
And, he believes more Brits than<br />
ever are opting for eastern<br />
confections. “The market for Indian<br />
sweets is definitely getting more<br />
popular. We have been agents for<br />
Royal Sweets (the biggest Indian<br />
sweet manufacturer in the UK)<br />
for 30 years now and we have<br />
certainly noticed an increase in<br />
demand – particularly from White<br />
English consumers.<br />
“I travel the world quite a lot and<br />
believe that British consumers are<br />
the most open-minded, and are<br />
more willing to try new things. In<br />
countries like America, and even the<br />
rest of Europe shoppers are less<br />
likely to be experimental,” he says.<br />
It seems the nation’s broad-minded<br />
attitude has led to customers<br />
actually demanding a bigger range<br />
and more variety in this store. Mr<br />
Ismail comments, “We wouldn’t<br />
have called our shop ‘Sweetmart’ if<br />
it wasn’t doing well – instead exotic<br />
fruits and spices would’ve been our<br />
focus. The name Sweetmart sums<br />
up our main business really.”<br />
Being an expert in the field, this<br />
speciality shopkeeper recommends<br />
that retailers who are new to Indian<br />
sweets should stock an interesting<br />
collection of barfi. Made from<br />
condensed milk, barfi is available in<br />
several different flavours, including<br />
pineapple, pistachio, chocolate and<br />
even ice cream! Made with double<br />
cream, sugar and milk power, “It is<br />
more like your Devon fudge!” laughs<br />
Mr Ismail.<br />
A well-organised counter<br />
should also include the Indian<br />
classic, jalebi; which is a deep-fried<br />
batter tube that is made with saffron<br />
and sugar. The orange treat is a<br />
winner with customers from Indian,<br />
Pakistan, Nepal and Bangladesh,<br />
but is also proving popular with<br />
intriguing Brits too. “It has caught on<br />
very well, and more shoppers are<br />
starting to buy something different<br />
for traditional events such as<br />
Christmas.” Another key line that is<br />
attracting attention is rassomalai<br />
which is a round candy that<br />
combines Indian cottage cheese<br />
and sugar syrup. Many Indian<br />
stores also sell Havla which can be<br />
KEY BENEFITS OF GOING EAST<br />
Many Indian sweets are vegetarian friendly<br />
because they contain no gelatine. This is an<br />
option worth exploring when targeting both<br />
veggie and vegan customers.<br />
■ Some British consumers are looking for alternative dessert<br />
options for events such as birthdays and Christmas, and<br />
Indian desserts could fit the bill.<br />
■ Stocking Indian sweets means that events such as Diwali<br />
and Eid can be celebrated, and it may also attract fresh<br />
custom in-store.<br />
■ Displays of Indian sweets are visually attractive and will<br />
hopefully brighten up your shop.<br />
■ A collection of sweets can be sold to accompany Indian<br />
meal deals. Most consumers are interested in Indian<br />
savoury dishes, give them the chance to uncover the<br />
sweeter side of this cuisine.<br />
■ Recipe cards can be given out so customers can make<br />
Indian sweets at home<br />
28 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
asian sweets<br />
“A favourite Indian<br />
expression is ‘muh<br />
meetha karo’ and<br />
it means ‘sweeten<br />
your mouth’”<br />
either flour-based or nut butterbased.<br />
It is flavoured with fruits such<br />
as figs and is popular when paired<br />
with middle eastern cuisine. In his<br />
article, ‘Sweetness and Light’,<br />
Adam Edwards at the Telegraph<br />
newspaper described the sweet as<br />
the ‘Mr Kipling cake of India’.<br />
Point of difference<br />
Traditional sweets such as these<br />
are all prepared in an authentic<br />
way, and despite national chains<br />
such as Thorntons trying to enjoy<br />
profitability of religious festival by<br />
introducing ‘special collections’;<br />
Mr Ismail is not convinced of their<br />
involvement. “Supermarkets and<br />
shops like Thorntons have trashed<br />
on Indian sweets by not stocking<br />
fresh lines that are specially made,<br />
and chilled. Authentic lines are<br />
refrigerated to ensure the sweets<br />
are still unprocessed and moist,<br />
this is much better than being left<br />
out in the ambient temperature. I<br />
also believe the packaging is much<br />
nicer when you buy from an<br />
independent store.” This<br />
passionate shopkeeper is<br />
convinced that the whole<br />
retail experience is completely<br />
different when buying from a<br />
specialist store.<br />
“When consumers travel the<br />
world and try new foods they want<br />
the same experience when they<br />
come back. They don’t want<br />
packaged goods which have no<br />
authentic flavour. A lot of chains tend<br />
to put products in boxes, whereas<br />
we offer items loose so customers<br />
can pick and choose what they<br />
need,” says Mr Ismail. He also<br />
believes his knowledgeable staff are<br />
an asset when dealing with<br />
customers that have allergies. The<br />
specialist team is able to assist<br />
shoppers better. “We can identify<br />
which products have traces of nuts<br />
or dairy straight away.” This helped<br />
shoppers massively when the ‘mad<br />
cow’ disease broke out because<br />
Indian sweets do not contain<br />
gelatine, many customers were<br />
happy to stock up on vegetarian<br />
friendly options.<br />
This attention to detail has<br />
meant that a specialist store such as<br />
Sweetmart has garnered a point of<br />
difference from the supermarkets.<br />
“The biggest advantage we have is<br />
we are still a family-run business and<br />
my father is actually a historic figure<br />
in Bristol. He started something new<br />
in the town and it is still popular<br />
today,” concludes Mr Ismail.<br />
www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 29
stevia<br />
&<br />
Sweetness<br />
Light<br />
Historically, the words<br />
‘healthy’ and<br />
‘chocolate’ have rarely<br />
sat well together in the<br />
same paragraph, let<br />
alone the same<br />
sentence. Raw cocoa in<br />
its most natural form<br />
has many health<br />
benefits; it is high in<br />
antioxidants, it contains<br />
vitamins and essential<br />
nutrients and can help<br />
prevent heart and<br />
vascular diseases.<br />
However, once the<br />
cocoa is processed into<br />
a chocolate bar, the real<br />
health benefits are often<br />
reduced because the<br />
inclusions of other<br />
ingredients, such as<br />
sugar and sweeteners can be bad<br />
for you when eaten excessively or<br />
as part of an unbalanced diet.<br />
Modern eating patterns have<br />
meant that we now all eat too<br />
much sugar. Every year we<br />
consume on average over 40kg<br />
per person, which equates to<br />
about 130g sugar per day. The<br />
World Health Organisation<br />
recommends a daily amount of<br />
20-50g of sugar per day so we all<br />
consume well over double that<br />
amount! Excess sugar in our diet<br />
is a major contributing factor in<br />
many modern day diseases;<br />
cancer, obesity, diabetes and<br />
possibly Alzheimer’s.<br />
So what is the answer? A<br />
balanced diet and exercise goes a<br />
long way to keep us all healthy but<br />
sweet things appeal to all of us<br />
and why should we stop eating<br />
what we love? In the case of<br />
chocolate, for many years the only<br />
real way has been to choose high<br />
quality bars with a high cocoa<br />
content meaning that<br />
only a minimal amount<br />
of other ingredients<br />
have been added.<br />
Many chocolatiers<br />
have tried to remove<br />
sugar from their<br />
ingredients list and tried<br />
to replace it with<br />
sweeteners, such as<br />
maltitol or sorbitol, as<br />
they contain fewer<br />
calories per gram and<br />
so are perceived to be<br />
better for you. However,<br />
these replacements are<br />
man-made and as such<br />
have unfortunate side<br />
effects, such as laxative effects<br />
when consumed in reasonable<br />
quantities. They also don’t always<br />
taste as nice as natural sugars so<br />
consumer demand has deemed<br />
healthy and chocolate should<br />
continue to remain apart…<br />
Until now…<br />
Stevia, or Stevia Rebaudiana<br />
Bertoni to give it its full name, is a<br />
small green plant, originates from<br />
the borderland between Paraguay<br />
and Brazil. The small leaves<br />
contain stevioside, a potent<br />
sweetener which is 300 times<br />
sweeter than ordinary sugar. The<br />
plant also contains rebaudioside<br />
A, which is even sweeter than<br />
stevioside and with a less<br />
bitter aftertaste.<br />
Stevia has been used for<br />
centuries as a natural sweetener in<br />
Can chocolate ever be healthy? Peter<br />
Martin MD of the House of Sarunds<br />
discovers the latest ingredient that is<br />
helping to keep <strong>confectionery</strong><br />
delicious, but also nutritious<br />
countries in the Far East and the<br />
Central Americas. In Japan Stevia<br />
is used in soft and fizzy drinks as a<br />
healthy alternative to aspartame,<br />
(an artificial sweetener). So why isn’t<br />
Stevia well known in Europe? Due<br />
to the emergence of many cheaper<br />
sugar and synthetic sweeteners,<br />
coupled with economic and market<br />
pressures, the European,<br />
‘want it now and want it<br />
cheap’ culture has meant<br />
Stevia has remained a<br />
well-kept secret.<br />
So what is so good<br />
about Stevia? Stevia is a<br />
natural ingredient that<br />
contains zero calories per<br />
gram so adds nothing to<br />
your sugar intake but<br />
helps to give chocolate<br />
that sweeter taste.<br />
Cavalier chocolate also<br />
contains over twice the<br />
amount of fibre than<br />
sugar or sweeteners,<br />
which as we all know is<br />
important in digestion, as well<br />
as higher levels of vitamin E,<br />
magnesium, zinc and iron, again<br />
all important in keeping your<br />
body healthy.<br />
Cavalier chocolatiers have<br />
pioneered the use of Stevia in<br />
chocolate and its master<br />
chocolatiers, dieticians and food<br />
engineers have created a 100%<br />
natural sweetener that is high in<br />
antioxidants, offers a low glycemic<br />
index, has a unique and delicious<br />
taste, contains fibres, vitamin E,<br />
magnesium, zinc and<br />
iron, features no trans<br />
fats and is gluten-free.<br />
By using Stevia in<br />
chocolate the full<br />
flavour of the cocoa is<br />
unmistakable. The<br />
natural antioxidants,<br />
minerals, essential fatty<br />
acids and fibre have<br />
created something that<br />
has never happened<br />
before, not only do<br />
you have the choice<br />
to eat chocolate as<br />
part of a balanced diet,<br />
you can now use the<br />
words healthy and<br />
chocolate next to each other in<br />
the same sentence.<br />
Cavalier chocolates and all<br />
Cavalier products are only<br />
available from House of Sarunds.<br />
30 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk
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Top Quality Greatest Variety Best Taste Real Sales Real Profi ts Real Result<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
50<br />
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