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Confectionery<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk<br />

FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF<br />

2011


WOULD<br />

YOU ADAM<br />

& EVE IT?<br />

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there's never been a better bean!<br />

FASTEST GROWING JELLY BEAN BRAND IN THE UK*<br />

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Email: info@jellybeanfactory.com / www.jellybeanfactory.com<br />

www.facebook.com/jellybeanfactory<br />

*IPSOS MRBI 2011


Welcome<br />

With UK <strong>confectionery</strong><br />

sales expected to reach a<br />

value of £4.1 billion by<br />

2015 – the industry is the<br />

most buoyant it has ever<br />

been. The profitability in this market is<br />

largely owning to the sheer variety now<br />

found in the sector, and this has<br />

inspired us to focus on several new<br />

feature ideas this year.<br />

On page 28 we take a look at the<br />

growing popularity of Indian sweets,<br />

and how they can be best promoted<br />

during festivities. There has also been<br />

a rising interest in nostalgia sweets<br />

(page eight) and gourmet fudge (page<br />

11). If you are not keen on following<br />

trends and prefer to read our specialist<br />

retail advice pieces, turn to pages 14-<br />

15 for more information.<br />

Louise Miles, Editor<br />

CONTENTS<br />

4 Bars of Gold<br />

Sarah Jane Evans discusses the rise of the<br />

speciality chocolate bar<br />

8 A Different Class<br />

A round-up of the country’s sweetest shops<br />

11 New Tricks<br />

Natasha Lovell-Smith discovers innovation in<br />

the fudge sector<br />

12 A Taste of Fun<br />

A look at popular funfair sweets including<br />

candy floss, brandy snaps and popcorn<br />

14 Capitalising on Confectionery<br />

Helen Pattinson reveals her top retail tips<br />

16 What’s Sweet in the Market?<br />

Paul Hargreaves takes at a look at the year’s<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> trends<br />

17 Refashioning Flavour<br />

Toffee is more than an old-fashioned treat<br />

18 Talk of the Trade<br />

What retailers are recalling as their bestselling<br />

lines<br />

20 Paying a Fair Price<br />

How Fairtrade chocolate is creating a<br />

presence in the market<br />

22 Meet the Buyer<br />

Paul A. Young talks retail at his new<br />

Soho shop<br />

24 Going Against The Grain<br />

Shelley Preston discusses how female<br />

chocolatiers are making a mark<br />

28 Eastern Delights<br />

Louise Miles investigates Indian sweets<br />

30 Sweetness and Light<br />

The role of Stevia in the <strong>confectionery</strong> industry<br />

Innovations, new products,<br />

and creative sales concepts<br />

– the <strong>confectionery</strong> industry<br />

is an commercial enterprise<br />

that continues to develop at a fast<br />

rate. For many, chocolate is the<br />

epitome of culinary pleasure and<br />

luxury, however it holds specially<br />

great potential for creativity.<br />

Examples of these exciting trends<br />

have been made been evident<br />

both at home and aboard.<br />

In the European market, the<br />

most recent International<br />

Sweets and Biscuits Fair (ISM )<br />

held in Cologne demonstrated<br />

that the trend for single origin<br />

chocolates – chocolate with a<br />

designated origin – is holding<br />

up. Filled chocolates are<br />

undergoing a renaissance,<br />

especially in combinations with<br />

fruits, nuts or almonds. But, the<br />

most radical idea to impress<br />

visitors was the sweet olives in<br />

white chocolate. It seems these<br />

daring moves in the industry are<br />

sometimes controversial, but<br />

always intriguing.<br />

Interesting flavours<br />

At the <strong>Speciality</strong> & Fine <strong>Food</strong> Fair<br />

2011, a similar feeling of<br />

excitement was stirring in the<br />

Chocolate Fair aisles. Several new<br />

creations were being showcased<br />

including Amelia Rope Chocolate<br />

will its new chocolate bar range,<br />

including Dark Mandarin, Dark<br />

Lemon and Dark Ginger flavours.<br />

The Gourmet Chocolate Pizza<br />

Co. was highlighting its solid<br />

Belgian chocolate pizzas which<br />

toppings ranging from toffee and<br />

pecan nuts to marshmallows,<br />

and a new strawberry and<br />

champagne pizza.<br />

introduction<br />

Creative<br />

Confections<br />

Innovation in the sweets industry<br />

has meant that creations such as<br />

wasabi infused chocolates are now<br />

possible. With new flavours<br />

emerging all the time, what’s next?<br />

HF Chocolates also exhibited<br />

at the show and the director of the<br />

company, Thelma Benke, believes<br />

more customers are going for freefrom<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong>. “There is a lot<br />

of interest in the quality of<br />

ingredients in particular ‘free from’<br />

information e.g. gluten, sugar, azo<br />

dyes. This is true of both<br />

chocolates and sweets where the<br />

trend is towards natural colours<br />

and flavours. Colourful, distinctive,<br />

original, sometimes witty<br />

packaging is also important to<br />

entice the customer.”<br />

According to the team at the<br />

House of Dorchester consumer<br />

interest in chocolate has never<br />

been more promient. Hence, why<br />

the company has created a<br />

‘Chocolate Larder’ collection this<br />

year. Comprised of biscuits,<br />

flapjacks and Tiffin, to rich hot<br />

chocolate and chocolate stir-in<br />

spoons – the Larder is offering<br />

bang-on trends. “Each recipe we<br />

have created for our new range<br />

has been under extreme scrutiny<br />

from the whole team, to make<br />

sure that they had at their heart<br />

everything that is important to<br />

House of Dorchester – delicious<br />

recipes, expertly sourced<br />

ingredients and real skill in their<br />

creation. Biscuits, flapjacks and<br />

chocolate stir-in spoons are really<br />

just the start – there are lots more<br />

ideas in our new Larder!”<br />

comments Jeremy Moore from<br />

House of Dorchester.<br />

So, with the industry being at<br />

its most vibrant, now is the time<br />

for retailers and consumers to<br />

discover the latest confections.<br />

Over the next 32 pages, you will<br />

find a round-up of the most<br />

notable trends currently hitting the<br />

industry and also some sound<br />

retail advice to help push your<br />

business further.<br />

Confectionery<br />

Editor<br />

Designer<br />

Louise Miles 01206 505971<br />

Tom Sanderson<br />

louise.miles@aceville.co.uk<br />

Adsetting<br />

Features Writers<br />

Kevin Dennis<br />

Natasha Lovell-Smith 01206 508623<br />

Design/Repro/Typesetting<br />

natasha@aceville.co.uk<br />

Ace Pre-Press<br />

Group Advertising Manager<br />

19 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road,<br />

Sam Reubin 01206 505936<br />

Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY<br />

sam.reubin@aceville.co.uk<br />

Publisher<br />

Advertising Executives<br />

Helen Tudor 01206 505970<br />

Michelle Marples 01206 505934<br />

Published by:<br />

michelle.marples@aceville.co.uk<br />

Aceville Publications Ltd,<br />

Tim Wilby 01206 505240<br />

21-23 Phoenix Court,<br />

tim.wilby@aceville.co.uk<br />

Hawkins Road,<br />

Accounts<br />

Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY<br />

Sue Carr 01206 505901<br />

Disclaimer: The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Every effort is made<br />

to ensure the veracity and integrity of the companies, persons, products and services mentioned in this publication, and details<br />

given are believed to be accurate at the time of going to press. However no responsibility or liability whatsoever can be<br />

accepted for any consequence or repercussion of responding to any information or advice given or inferred.<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 3


chocolate bars<br />

Bars<br />

Gold<br />

of<br />

With chocolate now featuring in every<br />

shape possible – the industry is<br />

constantly evolving. Expert Sarah Jane<br />

Evans wants, however, to sell the<br />

merits of the speciality chocolate bar<br />

Where did the Milk<br />

Tray man go? You<br />

remember: the one<br />

in the black polo<br />

neck who performed daring deeds<br />

to deliver the box of milk<br />

chocolates to the demanding lady.<br />

Well, he kept up acrobatics until<br />

2003, but then – after 25 years<br />

–was consigned to the advertising<br />

dustbin. Just in time, for the<br />

chocolate world was changing<br />

radically. By 2003 the choosy<br />

woman much preferred Belgian<br />

chocolates. Fast forward to 2011<br />

and the demanding girlfriend is<br />

now selecting her own chocolates,<br />

and what she is wanting to choose<br />

is a bar.<br />

The great thing about the<br />

resurgence of the bar is that while<br />

bars are beloved by chocolate fans<br />

they are also tailor-made for delis and<br />

fine food retailers. Let’s look at the<br />

advantages, compared to the<br />

average box of chocs: portability,<br />

affordability, packaging, durability and<br />

flavour. It’s worth noting now that we<br />

are talking about fine chocolate bars,<br />

but more of that later.<br />

First, portability. Made for<br />

handbags and pockets, the<br />

humble bar is an easy buy and is<br />

perfect for quick, easy display.<br />

They do not need skilled sales<br />

people – the packaging does its<br />

own sales patter. There is none of<br />

the time-wasting hand selection of<br />

chocolates and then filling boxes.<br />

An artisan bar, handfoiled and<br />

packed, needs no finishing<br />

touches. These bars aren’t cheap,<br />

of course, with some of them rising<br />

£6 for 70g. However they are<br />

cheaper than a box of truffles, and<br />

many are definitely cheap enough<br />

to be bought on impulse. What’s<br />

more they can be picked up as a<br />

private treat, whereas a box of filled<br />

chocolates is never a private treat –<br />

it demands an occasion which<br />

limits its range. So put them by the<br />

till on a rainy day, or when the<br />

national mood is gloomy.<br />

Impact packaging<br />

The packaging is all part of the<br />

sales pitch, giving a little glamour to<br />

a shopping basket. Åkesson from<br />

Sweden has a faintly intellectual air<br />

with its black card boxes. Valrhona<br />

have always added class to a<br />

display, while relatively newcomer<br />

Amelia Rope’s brown paper<br />

4 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


wrapper is far more discreet. Look<br />

out for the new range of flavoured<br />

bars from Willie’s Delectable<br />

Cacao. They are boxed in vibrant<br />

colours with plenty of attitude,<br />

much like the wrappers of the<br />

Grenada Chocolate Company.<br />

Chococo’s bars are also bursting<br />

with personality. Now that standard<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> lines are flow<br />

wrapped, there is something<br />

deliciously ritualistic about<br />

unwrapping a bar that has been<br />

carefully wrapped in foil and paper.<br />

DeirdreMcCanny CoCouture in<br />

Belfast has got this to a fine art. A<br />

chocolate bar does not have to be<br />

a solitary treat, or the walker’s<br />

revival on a wet and windy day. A<br />

bar or two make a great gift for<br />

friends, an affordable luxury perfect<br />

to pass round with coffee.<br />

Customers coming to fine<br />

chocolate for the first time may not<br />

be aware that filled chocolates<br />

have short shelf lives, and need to<br />

be looked after. Chocolate in<br />

general is vulnerable to strong<br />

aromas – from cheese to coffee –<br />

and a fine cream ganache is a<br />

“The great thing about the<br />

resurgence of the bar is that<br />

while bars are beloved by<br />

chocolate fans they are also<br />

tailor-made for delis”<br />

particularly fragile indulgence.<br />

That’s where the bar comes in.<br />

Some producers mark their bars<br />

as viable for just two months, but<br />

the majority are shown to have a<br />

lifetime of a year, although it is<br />

undoubtedly true that the fresher<br />

the bar the better.<br />

Certainly bar aficionados are<br />

not deprived of flavour. As I<br />

discovered in the tastings for my<br />

guide to the world’s top producrs,<br />

Chocolate Unwrapped, bars from<br />

single origins can have flavours as<br />

diverse as red wine,<br />

citrus fruits,<br />

roasted walnuts, leather and tar.<br />

The flavours released depend on<br />

the quality and style of the many<br />

different approaches to finishing<br />

the bean. It’s not enough to<br />

ferment, dry and roast it. The<br />

conching time makes a distinct<br />

difference. For the curious, and the<br />

student of fine chocolate, two<br />

producers – Hotel Chocolat in its<br />

Purist range – and the Austrian<br />

Zotter in its Labooko collection –<br />

produce bars with different<br />

conching times for contrast.<br />

chocolate bars<br />

Flavour does not just come<br />

from the origin or the blend.<br />

Currently trending in twitter<br />

language, is lime (as in Willie’s<br />

Delectable Cacao new Sierra Leone<br />

bar with Ginger and Lime, and<br />

Amelia Rope’s Pale Lime and Sea<br />

Salt). Lime is what gives that bar the<br />

edge, while sea salt has become<br />

recently quite mainstream. Rococo<br />

were one of the early popularisers,<br />

and Duffy Sheardown has taken it a<br />

step further with his cocoa nib and<br />

oak-smoked sea salt milk chocolate<br />

bar, the sea salt is very subtle, the<br />

oak even more so.<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 5


chocolate bars<br />

In the search for novelty new<br />

producers Kokoh is using<br />

Himalayan Pink salt, while they<br />

also have a wattle seed bar. All of<br />

these choices are certainly more<br />

subtle than chilli. While chilli is still<br />

popular with consumers, for many<br />

chocolatiers it is much too<br />

dominant and they have moved on<br />

to sweeter, subtler spices and<br />

flavourings. Åkesson for instance<br />

is using the Madagascan<br />

Voatsiperifery pepper, which has a<br />

warm undertone with none of<br />

chilli’s bite.<br />

Simply changing the milk in a<br />

milk bar makes a difference –<br />

Laverstoke Park interestingly has a<br />

creamy buffalo milk bar made<br />

successfully by Artisan du<br />

Chocolat, who also have an<br />

almond milk bar. For imagination<br />

Zotter is undoubtedly the leader<br />

with its creative flavouring and<br />

fillings, even though not all of them<br />

hit the spot. For sheer elegance in<br />

flavour Valrhona is hard to beat,<br />

especially with its classic Manjari<br />

Orange and its Guanaja Grue,<br />

made with cocoa nibs.<br />

There is more than enough in<br />

the world of bars to excite and<br />

entice. There are also enough<br />

artisan producers around to give<br />

delicatessens a certain sense of<br />

exclusivity against other delis and<br />

the mainstream. It is, however,<br />

important to stress that the focus<br />

is on fine chocolate. Thus there is<br />

no vegetable fat other than<br />

cocoa butter, no artificial flavour<br />

such as vanillin, and there is no<br />

use of sweeteners such as<br />

sorbitol and maltitol.<br />

When discovering new<br />

chocolatiers, retailers should visit<br />

the companies’ websites, see what<br />

the producers have to say about<br />

their ethics and approach to trade.<br />

Ask producers whether they make<br />

their bars from the bean (only a very<br />

small number do), or whether they<br />

use couverture. A reliable producer<br />

should be willing to tell you whose<br />

couverture they use. Finally, be sure<br />

to stock chocolate bars that you<br />

like, not just the ones that look<br />

good or make specific claims.<br />

Keep tasting too; standards do vary<br />

over time owing to vintage changes<br />

and production demands. The<br />

good thing is that checking the<br />

chocolate is one quality control task<br />

that should always be a pleasure.<br />

Sarah Jane Evans is a master<br />

of wine, and author of<br />

Chocolate Unwrapped: Taste<br />

and Enjoy the World’s Finest<br />

Chocolate (Anova Books).<br />

WHAT’S HOT IN CHOC?<br />

Drinking chocolate, sipping chocolate, grated<br />

chocolate for blending in warm milk — whatever<br />

it’s called, it’s not our grandmother’s cocoa<br />

anymore. Sarah Jane Evans comments on hot<br />

chocolate trends<br />

One of the latest pieces of home kitchen equipment to hit the<br />

craving list is a ‘home hot chocolate dispenser’. These handy<br />

little machines bring home the authentic café experience of<br />

drinking chocolate by heating, whipping and blending milk and<br />

chocolate into a frothy, easily dispensed hot beverage.<br />

And, one of the more hotly contested categories in the<br />

Academy of Chocolate Awards is for drinking chocolate. This<br />

year the stars were undoubtedly the flavoured chocolates with<br />

three winning Gold: Paul A Young for his spicy Aztec, Jaz &<br />

Jul’s for their Caramel and Lime, and the category winner the<br />

US west coast producer Theo for the Chipotle. The message<br />

was: when spiced hot chocolate is well done, it’s better than<br />

the standard unflavoured variety. Delis can have the edge when<br />

it comes to selling these more out of the way flavours. Those<br />

who also have cafés have a real opportunity for diversification<br />

once autumn starts drawing in.<br />

For the point about chocolate is that it’s a ritual, a sensuous<br />

treat. In a recent survey among friends, fans quickly came up<br />

with their favourite recipes, from ‘I used to throw Aero mint<br />

bubbles in mine back in the uni days’ to ‘Two tablespoons of<br />

Nutella with hot frothy milk and two marshmallows’, and ‘the<br />

rich, thick, dark hot chocolate that you can nearly stand a<br />

spoon up in, that you get in Spain and Italy’. Their enthusiasm<br />

is patent. Interestingly each one of them mentions a garnish.<br />

Spain may serve churros, but it is worth thinking about offering<br />

a ginger spiced chocolate drink with a stem ginger biscuit, for<br />

instance, to add to the glamour, or a handful of chocolate<br />

couverture buttons for sprinkling over the top of the drink and<br />

stirring in as they melt.<br />

Patissier chocolatier, William Curley, makes a fine ritual in<br />

his London shops, offering a little plate and a small measure of<br />

unctuous chocolate in a small beaker. A small cup is all that is<br />

required when the chocolate is so rich. For more entertainment<br />

Zotter sells an entire hot chocolate set: each customer gets a<br />

little tray, with a small hand whisk, a double walled mug for the<br />

milk, and an individual bar for melting. It is definitely time to<br />

abandon the sachets of instant chocolate, and explore a world<br />

as interesting as fine leaf tea.<br />

6 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 7


itish sweet shops<br />

A<br />

Different<br />

Class<br />

Business is booming for those retail<br />

outlets which have stamped their USP<br />

into the public consciousness. We tour<br />

the nation’s most iconic shops<br />

The Cult Favourite<br />

With several shops plus<br />

a busy website,<br />

CyberCandy is meeting<br />

the current demand for<br />

cult sweets<br />

It’s 12 years since Margaret<br />

Morrison and husband Allan<br />

Goocher decided to enter retail<br />

with CyberCandy – back then a<br />

no-frills website that supplied eyepoppingly<br />

bright imports to a small<br />

band of fans. They had little clue<br />

that the store’s niche range of<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> would prove so<br />

popular. “It was just a sideline at<br />

first and we kept our day jobs,”<br />

explains Ms Morrison, “but it really<br />

took off online. Through that we<br />

built up a clear idea of the ranges<br />

that worked for us. Our first bricks<br />

and mortar shop was a theatre of<br />

products, just a neutral canvas to<br />

showcase the amazing graphics<br />

and branding on the packaging.”<br />

Amongst the exotic imports<br />

from Japan, Australia and beyond,<br />

CyberCandy has a great selection<br />

of retro classics that appeal to<br />

nostalgic shoppers prepared to<br />

spend serious cash on the novelty<br />

products from their past. “We<br />

make a lot of effort to get the<br />

things that have disappeared:<br />

Lucky Charms cereal, Nestle<br />

Pretzel Flips, Nerds...So often big<br />

brands dip a toe in the UK and<br />

then withdraw from the market,<br />

creating a niche following of<br />

customers who miss it. We can<br />

bring back the memory for those<br />

customers, and transport them<br />

back in time.”<br />

CyberCandy caters for a<br />

specific client base: customers that<br />

have enough disposable income to<br />

justify spending out on imported<br />

goods priced at a hefty premium.<br />

“Children like our ranges but on the<br />

whole the prices are too much for<br />

them; they have to budget carefully<br />

or have choice anxiety. Our real<br />

core customer base is young<br />

adults and students – anyone into<br />

graphic design or who likes<br />

unusual things. A lot of our biggest<br />

fans are bordering on collectors –<br />

they enjoy looking for cute things<br />

they can save, or seasonal<br />

versions.”<br />

The stores attract an even split<br />

of male and female customers,<br />

most within the age band 16 and<br />

“Our biggest fans<br />

are bordering on<br />

collectors – they<br />

look out for cute<br />

things they can save”<br />

35. And, for these customers, the<br />

air of mystery and novelty attracted<br />

to the imports is a big part of the<br />

attraction. Nostalgic shopping is<br />

also big, though it’s not about the<br />

Victorian-style boiled sweets that<br />

have proved so popular for many<br />

retailers. Instead CyberCandy<br />

invokes affection for a very specific<br />

era. “For us it’s not about sweets in<br />

jars but Wham bars and other<br />

favourites from the 70s. We do a<br />

great trade in the kind of things<br />

people used to get in Woolworths:<br />

Black Jacks, Sherbet Dip Dabs<br />

and Fruit Salads.”<br />

The customers’ amazing<br />

dedication for familiar products<br />

even extends to rebrands, when<br />

units bearing the old packaging<br />

suddenly gain retro appeal.<br />

“Mountain Dew relaunched its cans<br />

with a new, ‘modern’ design but it<br />

just doesn’t seem to have the<br />

same appeal for customers,”<br />

explains Ms Morrison. “So we see<br />

really buoyant sales of original<br />

designs. We also make sure we<br />

stock every conceivable variation:<br />

guest flavours, limited editions, and<br />

imports from Japan which come in<br />

extra large sizes.”<br />

With four stores and another<br />

planned, the future looks rosy for<br />

the brand. “Location is something<br />

we’re feeling our way on,” says Ms<br />

Morrison. “Covent Garden is a<br />

great location because it gets<br />

tourists and show-goers. Our<br />

Brighton store is in North Laine<br />

where there’s hardly a high-street<br />

chain, which is nice. We like to be<br />

where the indies are so we don’t<br />

do malls. Location is important but<br />

people discover us wherever we<br />

are, and see a great window<br />

display. Our website is due for an<br />

overhaul, and it means customers<br />

all over Britain can reach those<br />

who don’t have local access. We<br />

also do specialist shows themed<br />

around sci-fi or manga [Japanese<br />

animation]. They tend to attract the<br />

right crowd for us. There are<br />

massive levels of enthusiasm.<br />

People are always fighting over<br />

where we can open the next store<br />

– they want us to bring one to their<br />

town!” comments Ms Morrison.<br />

8 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


The Retro Retreat<br />

Rose-tinted nostalgia<br />

reigns supreme at Hope<br />

& Greenwood, which<br />

has stores in Covent<br />

Garden and Dulwich<br />

The Enid Blyton aesthetic to be<br />

soaked up in Hope & Greenwood’s<br />

two stores is a real thrill for<br />

nostalgia fans, with the brand’s<br />

exclusive selection of sweeties<br />

offering an authentic taste of the<br />

past. “We see a trend in products<br />

and sweets that are warm and<br />

comforting, given this economic<br />

climate, and for things that hark<br />

back to our childhoods,” says cofounder<br />

Kitty Hope. “I’m<br />

responsible for all our packaging<br />

and it’s 100% based on my Auntie<br />

Mary’s pantry. She had a great oldfashioned<br />

larder with cold-store<br />

shelving – as a child I was utterly<br />

fascinated by it. Now my ethos is if<br />

a product doesn’t look like it could<br />

be found in her larder, it doesn’t<br />

have a place at Hope and<br />

Greenwood. And we don’t repast<br />

the same lines in multiple colours –<br />

there’s a higgledy piggledy<br />

randomness that forms a range<br />

that still has curiosity.”<br />

Miss Hope’s background in<br />

design, combined with her<br />

husband’s (Mr Greenwood) love of<br />

antiques, gave to birth to an<br />

aesthetic that’s hit a chord with the<br />

buying public. “The whole look and<br />

feel is as if the shop has evolved<br />

from 1890 to 1960.” But is this<br />

look just an attempt to hook into<br />

the zeitgeist? “No, it’s a hearty<br />

ethos,” insists Miss Hope. “There<br />

are a few retailers who have a look<br />

close to ours but the difference is<br />

the quality of our products is top<br />

notch. We always knew we had to<br />

deliver the whole package. It’s like<br />

buying a beautiful pair of pants:<br />

once you get through the great<br />

wrapping, layers of tissue paper<br />

and gold stickers, you still need<br />

to have something inside that<br />

meets expectations. So it’s<br />

about delivering the fulfilment<br />

at every level so customers are<br />

never disappointed.”<br />

If attention to the quality of the<br />

products has proven crucial, it has<br />

also brought its own set of<br />

problems. “Our rhubarb and<br />

custards are only made for us, and<br />

we’re about to launch Foaming<br />

Blue Cherries that expand in your<br />

mouth. We also do Fizz! Bang!<br />

Wallops!; Honey Toffee; and<br />

Peanut Butter Fudge. The cost of<br />

raw materials is going up, and<br />

we’re absorbing that increase<br />

rather than passing it on. We<br />

intend to maintain those prices but<br />

retail is tough at the moment.<br />

Please God let it change back.”<br />

Manufacturing its own lines<br />

in an era of rampant food inflation<br />

has created some serious<br />

headaches for Hope &<br />

Greenwood.<br />

“It’s a slap in the face when a<br />

supplier puts prices up and give 24<br />

hours notice. That pisses me off.<br />

They know the increases are<br />

coming so they could give more<br />

warning. Sometimes you can’t<br />

accommodate it quickly enough.<br />

But then people out there are<br />

seriously suffering and we’re lucky.<br />

Our price point isn’t much higher<br />

than other stores. People says it’s<br />

a posh sweet shop but we’re not<br />

keen to undercut everyone in the<br />

area. Confectionery has a<br />

perceived price point so we stay in<br />

british sweet shops<br />

the commercial world.”<br />

And could this strong business<br />

instinct compromise the shop’s<br />

current look if the public appetite<br />

for a retro British look wanes? “We<br />

were British before it was cool to<br />

be – when we opened the first<br />

shop I said to Mr Greenwood<br />

‘Dare I put Union Jack bunting<br />

up?’ He thought we’d get a brick<br />

through the window. We were very<br />

early pioneers but we’re in it for the<br />

long haul. I’m not taking my Union<br />

Jack down for anyone!”<br />

she concludes.<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 9


itish sweet shops<br />

Rest of the Best<br />

The Tourist’s<br />

1Treasure<br />

Dedication to a few<br />

traditional lines has put<br />

Gordon & Durward in<br />

Crieff into a league<br />

of its own<br />

Like all the best foodie<br />

destinations, this shop-comesweetie-factory<br />

has plenty of ownrecipe<br />

goodies that claim to be the<br />

best. The company’s traditional<br />

copper boilers bubble with the<br />

natural ingredients required for<br />

tablet – the hard, granular fudge<br />

peculiar to Scotland that has<br />

sweetie-lovers of all generations<br />

hooked. Meanwhile a busy team<br />

mixes up coconut ice, macaroons<br />

and the shop’s famous sugar<br />

mice – of which 3,000 are made<br />

each week!<br />

The Palace to<br />

2Pleasure<br />

Inspired use of iconic<br />

branding puts<br />

Charbonnel et Walker<br />

ahead of the local<br />

competition<br />

If there’s any <strong>confectionery</strong><br />

packaging more rich with romantic<br />

promise than the gold-embossed<br />

chocolate boxes produced by<br />

Charbonnel et Walker, we’d like to<br />

see it. The iconic, satin-ribbonwrapped<br />

cartons fill the curved<br />

glass windows in Old Bond Street’s<br />

Royal Arcade – a location<br />

guaranteed to impress the brand’s<br />

pedigree upon any shopper with the<br />

means to buy. Despite the name<br />

this is a thoroughly English<br />

company, founded in 1875 and<br />

carrying the Queen’s Royal Warrant.<br />

The Time<br />

3Capsule<br />

With two stores in<br />

Yorkshire’s favourite<br />

tourist town, Justin’s<br />

of Whitby is tapping<br />

into local history with<br />

huge success<br />

Along the cobbles of Whitby’s<br />

winding Church Street you’ll find<br />

the lavish Victorian frontage of<br />

Justin’s, a traditional chocolate<br />

shop with an army of die-hard fans<br />

thanks to its unusual special<br />

ranges. Chief among these are<br />

Captain Cook’s Cannonballs –<br />

gargantuan, chocolate-coated<br />

spheres of rum truffle – and<br />

Dracula’s Coffins, a Gothic nod to<br />

the town’s literary connection with<br />

Bram Stoker’s ghoulish count. Try<br />

both – the resulting sugar rush will<br />

fuel your explorations of this<br />

endearing seaside town.<br />

The Flamboyant<br />

4and Fabulous<br />

A dedication to its<br />

window displays has won<br />

Choccywoccydoodah a<br />

high media profile with<br />

profits to match<br />

Gothic sensibilities and a passion<br />

for high Victoriana infuse every<br />

design at this weird and wonderful<br />

palace of pleasure, which has<br />

become a place of pilgrimage<br />

for chocoholics. Here chocolate in<br />

all its forms is coloured every<br />

shade of the rainbow and<br />

magicked into gravity-defying<br />

towers and dioramas.<br />

5<br />

The Workshop<br />

Outlet<br />

Bubbling up its own<br />

iconic sweets, Uncle<br />

Joe’s Emporium offers<br />

a taste of the town from<br />

generations past<br />

This traditional shop’s selection of<br />

ye olde sweeties includes classics<br />

such as sarsparilla drops,<br />

humbugs and Pontefract cakes,<br />

but the real star of the show is<br />

Uncle Joe’s Mint Balls. Wigan’s<br />

iconic boiled sweet is loving made<br />

in huge open pans from three<br />

ingredients – cane sugar, cream of<br />

tartar and peppermint. The exact<br />

recipe has remained a closely<br />

guarded secret for generations of<br />

the Santus family, whose ancestor<br />

first established the brand in 1898.<br />

10 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


fudge<br />

New<br />

Tricks<br />

From mojito to sticky toffee<br />

pudding, speciality fudges are<br />

available in practically every<br />

flavour imaginable. Natasha<br />

Lovell-Smith explores the sector<br />

When it comes to sweets it doesn’t get more traditional than<br />

old-fashioned, handmade fudge. However, the industry is<br />

undergoing something of a renaissance, with new and<br />

exciting flavours being introduced all the time. As in many<br />

sectors, classic varieties like vanilla and chocolate will ultimately be your<br />

best sellers, but it’s definitely worth promoting quirkier, attention-grabbing<br />

flavours to keep your selection fresh.<br />

The Little Deli in North Wales has been selling homemade fudge since<br />

the store opened over two years ago and is renowned in the region for its<br />

unusual flavours. The store has also picked up a string of Great Taste<br />

awards, as well as numerous gongs from the Wales The True Taste<br />

Awards. “Making your own fudge is actually quite straightforward, it’s just<br />

about getting that original recipe correct,” starts Emma Baravelli, co-owner.<br />

“I used to work in the hospitality industry and my recipe is something that<br />

I’ve developed over time. The ingredients are very simple – sugar, butter<br />

and milk – but the actual process is difficult to perfect.”<br />

According to Ms Baravelli, ‘proper’ fudge can be differentiated from the<br />

mass-produced variety by its hard and crumbly texture and creamy flavour.<br />

“The other stuff is too smooth and sickly for my taste,” she says. Flavours<br />

on offer include salted caramel, peanut butter, barabrith and lemon with<br />

sour cream. “But, as with ice cream, it’s the plainer flavours that tend to<br />

sell the best. Out clotted cream fudge is our best seller by far, but we offer<br />

the quirkier flavours alongside to give people a reason to come in and see<br />

what’s going on,” she adds.<br />

In contrast, Middlesbrough-based Fudge Fancies produces ubercontemporary<br />

confections that are presented like the structured desserts<br />

you might find in a high-end restaurant. The company was founded by<br />

Michael Goodchild, a former plasterer who was inspired to make fudge by<br />

his grandmother, a keen home cook. However, in order to bring something<br />

different to the sector, Mr Goodchild reworked the classic fudge recipe to<br />

make a more modern version. “It is a lot softer than the old-fashioned type<br />

– the texture is a bit like chocolate truffle, but harder,” he says.<br />

Like many food ventures, Fudge Fancies was born from a hobby. “I<br />

started making it for friends and family at Christmas and it went down<br />

really well. At this time I was also struggling to find work in the building<br />

trade, so I thought I’d see how far I could take things.” Mr Goodchild<br />

started selling his fudge from a small retail outlet, but demand from local<br />

retailers and event planners proved so strong that, after six months, he<br />

started producing fudge full time and<br />

selling it online.<br />

“I’ve had a lot of interest from<br />

wedding planners and<br />

businesses wanting to give out corporate gifts, so it made sense to focus<br />

on production rather than face-to-face retail,” he continues.<br />

Although traditional crumbly fudge is what most customers will be<br />

familiar with, Mr Goodchild believes there is also a growing market for the<br />

modern interpretation. “I present them a bit like cupcakes with some kind<br />

of pretty decoration on top of each piece – visuals are so important in the<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> sector.” However, the company works hard to ensure its<br />

creations taste as good as they look; varieties include Eaton mess, white<br />

chocolate, lemon and lime, and after dinner mint. “Obviously it’s the<br />

presentation that first attracts people, but flavour is the most important<br />

thing because it keeps people coming back.” he concludes.<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 11


funfair sweets<br />

A TASTE<br />

OF FUN<br />

Novelty <strong>confectionery</strong> has never<br />

been more popular, says Kerry<br />

Wilkinson of Trufflepiglet<br />

As disposable income<br />

declines through<br />

recovering interest rates<br />

and rising food and<br />

energy bills, the public are looking<br />

for ways to have fun at home and<br />

indulge without breaking the bank.<br />

The ‘Make Do and Mend’ ethos is<br />

still going strong. Nostalgia is<br />

popular, with many people<br />

choosing to maximise their dining<br />

experience within the home, rather<br />

than splurging at a restaurant.<br />

And, this trend certainly applies<br />

to the <strong>confectionery</strong> market, with<br />

more customers purchasing<br />

‘cheap and cheerful’ treats such as<br />

candy floss, boiled sweets and<br />

toffee apples.<br />

Celebrity chefs have<br />

refashioned this joy for nostalgia a<br />

lot in 2011. Heston Blumenthal<br />

recently highlighted funfair food in<br />

the cinema episode of the Channel<br />

4 programme: Heston’s Mission<br />

Impossible. In the show the chef<br />

revamped the food offerings at a<br />

branch of Cineworld with toffee<br />

apples and inside-out hotdogs,<br />

and set up an exciting carnival<br />

atmosphere. This worked because<br />

the foods offered were not too far<br />

removed from the usual cinema<br />

treats, but with an added spin it<br />

made them more enticing and fun,<br />

and therefore heightened the<br />

customer experience.<br />

Sweet gadgets<br />

Along with the inspiring<br />

‘performance’ dishes by<br />

restaurateurs such as Heston<br />

Blumenthal, the increase in home<br />

entertaining has given rise to quirky<br />

kitchen gadgets that shoppers can<br />

enjoy using in the comfort of their<br />

own homes. It could be argued that<br />

the fondue set was the beginning.<br />

And, this developed into what is<br />

now the eminent chocolate fountain,<br />

pioneered by Giles & Posner.<br />

Lisa Scott, PR and branding<br />

manager comments on this<br />

developed interest. “In the past<br />

year we have seen an average of<br />

23% increase on the sales of our<br />

‘fun food entertainment’ home<br />

products, with the more popular<br />

items being our candyfloss maker<br />

and premier chocolate fountains.<br />

Our retail products are popular as<br />

they allow the consumer to cook,<br />

bake and make foods in the<br />

comfort of their own home. Due to<br />

the economic condition, more<br />

people are spending time at home<br />

and are therefore creating their<br />

own entertainment in the kitchen.”<br />

Ms Scott adds, “Giles & Posner<br />

has also seen a massive increase in<br />

‘feel good’ products like our<br />

popcorn makers, cupcake makers,<br />

and ‘retro style’ items. Our gadget<br />

portfolio continues to grow every<br />

month with our range being readily<br />

available on the high street and also<br />

online from many retailers.”<br />

Fun time treats<br />

The theme of fun and<br />

entertainment within food has<br />

brought us popcorn makers and<br />

even home candy floss machines.<br />

These give an authentic and<br />

nostalgic taste of the fun fair<br />

whenever the consumer wishes.<br />

Until very recently, fun-fair style<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> could only be<br />

purchased once a year, when the<br />

fair came to town. Whereas now,<br />

consumers can enjoy treats such<br />

as candy floss in their own living<br />

rooms during any season.<br />

Many <strong>confectionery</strong> producers<br />

including myself have been keen to<br />

recognise this trend by<br />

experimenting with fun flavours. I<br />

launched trufflepiglet at the<br />

beginning of the year, and now sell<br />

candy floss and brandy snaps all<br />

year round. These treats are<br />

prepared in small batches as and<br />

when customers place an order.<br />

This has worked for me as I have a<br />

couple of regulars hooked on the<br />

brandy snaps and therefore keep<br />

coming back for more! Fine food<br />

retailers could also tap into this trend<br />

by focusing on traditional treats, and<br />

giving out samples in-store.<br />

Sweetshop chain Sugacane in<br />

Cardiff is doing just this by offering<br />

fresh candy floss made in-store.<br />

The shop offers its customers no<br />

less than 27 candy floss flavours<br />

which include traditional tastes<br />

such as pear drop, apple & custard<br />

and dandelion and burdock. A<br />

representative for the company<br />

said, “Sugacane are restoring a<br />

sense of performance in stores –<br />

all the fun of the fair and the thrill of<br />

the theatrical spectacle. Our staff<br />

whizz up customers’ favourite floss<br />

right before their eyes. Be<br />

transfixed as the sugar crystals are<br />

transformed magically into mounds<br />

of soft and wispy melt-in-themonth<br />

candy floss.”<br />

For sweet shops looking to<br />

take advantage of and to capitalise<br />

on another fun-fair favourite, instore<br />

fudge making is also being<br />

offered by the company Calico<br />

Cottage. The Calico Cottage In-<br />

Store Fudge Programme means<br />

that customers can make their<br />

own cream and butter fudge. It is<br />

used in sweet shops across the<br />

world to attract custom. Through<br />

these lines are only available ready<br />

made, they are making it easier for<br />

the customer by producing a kind<br />

of ‘ready meal’ approach to<br />

compliment the growing food<br />

entertainment market.<br />

A display that pays<br />

By making up novelty confections<br />

in-store, customers are given the<br />

added advantage of freshness and<br />

it also adds to the excitement and<br />

theatre of retail. Both of these<br />

factors add value to the purchase<br />

and encourage more sales. The<br />

extra-sensory experiences are why<br />

this works so well, because<br />

shoppers not only want to taste<br />

12 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


the food, but want also want to<br />

take in the tempting smells – afterall<br />

who can resist the smell of<br />

freshly cooked popcorn?<br />

Not many shoppers can refuse<br />

treats such as this and the<br />

heightened interest has clearly<br />

been demonstrated with the rise of<br />

the ‘traditional’ sweet shop in the<br />

“With demand<br />

growing for<br />

sweets to make<br />

you smile, the gift<br />

and <strong>confectionery</strong><br />

retailer would be<br />

wise to watch<br />

this trend”<br />

UK. For several years, more shops<br />

have been opening up across the<br />

UK with phenomenal success in<br />

retailing retro sweets and supplying<br />

the demand for nostalgic treats.<br />

These shops are primarily targeted<br />

at adults, firmly reinforcing the<br />

message that sweets aren’t just for<br />

kids. The customer is invited to<br />

relive the sweet, sour, fizzy and<br />

creamy textures and tastes they<br />

enjoyed as a child, but with the<br />

pocket money of a grown-up<br />

instead. This often results in<br />

healthy sales.<br />

Companies that recognise this<br />

are definitely cashing in. At a time<br />

when there are (albeit tenuous)<br />

parallels to the hard times of the<br />

1940s, optimistic themes from that<br />

era are influencing <strong>confectionery</strong><br />

labelling in the form of street party<br />

iconography, Ministry of Information<br />

slogans, Union Jacks, knitting and<br />

liberty prints. All things retro are<br />

now cool, and of course sweets<br />

are firmly included.<br />

Further evidence of the<br />

demand for retro sugar snacks can<br />

be found in more modern sweet<br />

shops, such as high street<br />

newcomer and sweet franchise<br />

Sugacane. The chain currently has<br />

a portfolio of 26 stores, with a<br />

further 14 expected before the end<br />

of 2011. Director Adam Johnston<br />

comments, “A very large<br />

proportion of Sugacane’s<br />

customers are adults, in fact our<br />

figures show that our biggest<br />

market is the over 50’s.<br />

“We feel that adults of this age<br />

find Sugacane so appealing<br />

because we have harnessed the<br />

old world traditional sweets, kept<br />

the quality and put it into an<br />

environment that people today can<br />

relate to more than the old<br />

fashioned sweet shops that are<br />

around. We also incorporate coffee<br />

into the stores so people may be<br />

coming in for a coffee and noticing<br />

sweets they have not seen for<br />

years, it creates a really nice<br />

atmosphere,” he says.<br />

With demand growing for<br />

sweets to make you smile, the gift<br />

and <strong>confectionery</strong> retailer would be<br />

wise to watch this trend. For<br />

example, at trufflepiglet, I have<br />

created chocolates in the shape of<br />

tuxedos, pigs, cakes and even round<br />

bombs which are appealing to all<br />

age groups and look eye-catching<br />

when put together as a collection.<br />

Of course people are always<br />

going to buy high end<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> for special occasions,<br />

however when buying for<br />

themselves or an informal<br />

gathering, there are fantastic<br />

opportunities for embracing the<br />

‘fun’ trend. As we saw with the<br />

development of the fondue set<br />

evolving into the chocolate fountain,<br />

it is exciting to anticipate what will<br />

come next. There are many other<br />

niches yet to be explored and<br />

discovered, which will no doubt<br />

start to show during 2012.<br />

Kerry Wilkinson is the owner<br />

of trufflepiglet, for more<br />

information please see,<br />

W: www.trufflepiglet.com,<br />

or E: kerry@trufflepiglet.com<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 13


etail advice<br />

Capitalising on<br />

Confectionery<br />

After setting up five successful<br />

chocolate shops, Helen Pattinson of<br />

Montezuma Chocolates is welladvised<br />

to pass retail knowledge onto<br />

other aspiring chocolatiers<br />

In 2000, my husband Simon<br />

and I wanted to set up a<br />

chocolate business, that<br />

solely focused on retail.<br />

Initially we had no intention of<br />

making chocolate ourselves, but<br />

after conducting some in-depth<br />

market research, we decided this<br />

was a route we wanted to explore.<br />

So, we set about finding British<br />

producers who could help us to<br />

create a range of chocolates under<br />

the Montezuma’s brand. After<br />

seeking some expert advice and<br />

undergoing many negotiations, we<br />

opened our first store in Brighton in<br />

August 2000.<br />

To our joy and amazement,<br />

customers came in and spent<br />

money! It was the most fascinating<br />

and exhilarating experience, to see<br />

a customer actually part with good<br />

money to buy something we had<br />

personally created. More<br />

importantly, they came back for<br />

more. We now produce all of our<br />

chocolates in Chichester and have<br />

five stores in Brighton, Chichester,<br />

Winchester, Kingston-upon-Thames<br />

and Spitalfields Market in London.<br />

Setting up and running our<br />

own stores was at first a very steep<br />

learning curve, but after acquiring<br />

over a decade of experience and<br />

more recently, a constant attention<br />

to detail we now feel qualified to<br />

talk to other retailers about which<br />

products they should be taking,<br />

how to merchandise them and<br />

how they should talk to their<br />

customers about them. We have<br />

learnt a lot in eleven years of<br />

retailing and these are eight of my<br />

top chocolatier tips.<br />

1 Sampling<br />

We always have a taster tray<br />

out in our stores with small<br />

samples of the chocolate of the<br />

day. Our store teams are targeted<br />

to go outside ten times every day<br />

with the tray. This gives them an<br />

opportunity to talk to customers<br />

who may not ordinarily come into<br />

our store. It’s all very well offering a<br />

taster when they’re already in-store<br />

but at that point, they are already in<br />

the buying frame of mind. If you<br />

can convert someone on the street<br />

who was going to walk straight<br />

past, that is a real achievement.<br />

2 Price<br />

Chocolate ranges in price<br />

enormously and sometimes it’s<br />

difficult to justify why it is so<br />

expensive. We only sell<br />

Montezuma’s products in our<br />

stores and our aim is ‘to bring the<br />

food of the gods to mere mortals’<br />

or the best quality possible while<br />

making sure it’s affordable. If you’re<br />

14 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


etail advice<br />

buying other brands, carry out a<br />

sanity check before you invest in<br />

stock. If the retail price shocks you,<br />

it will probably shock your<br />

customers, and inevitably sit on the<br />

shelf for a while.<br />

Stock turn<br />

3Although a lot of chocolate<br />

products have a good shelf life, we<br />

have learnt the hard way that sitting<br />

on stock is not good business<br />

practice. I shouldn’t say this but<br />

make your supplier sit on the stock;<br />

as an independent retailer, you<br />

should hold as little stock as<br />

possible and order little and often.<br />

That also helps cash flow, without<br />

which there is no business!<br />

“We always have<br />

a taster tray out in<br />

our stores with<br />

small samples of<br />

the chocolate”<br />

Customer service<br />

4It’s obvious that service is so<br />

important but it’s hard to believe<br />

that when you walk into some<br />

shops. Having a mini chain of<br />

stores has meant that we can’t be<br />

in them all the time. In fact, we<br />

have fantastic teams in each store<br />

who represent our brand to the<br />

utmost. In order to have some<br />

consistency however, we do have<br />

strict standards that everybody<br />

must adhere to. From the initial<br />

greeting when you walk into the<br />

store, the offer of a taster and help,<br />

to a loyalty card at the till.<br />

There is no script but there are<br />

certain things we like our staff to<br />

say and do. For this reason, we<br />

also employ mystery shoppers. I<br />

was fairly sceptical about investing<br />

in mystery shoppers at first but I<br />

am now completely sold on the<br />

idea. If you own more than one<br />

shop, it is worth considering. It<br />

keeps the teams on their toes and<br />

they actually enjoy the competition<br />

between stores when the quarterly<br />

results are released.<br />

5 Knowledge<br />

Chocolate is the same as any<br />

other food, it will not fly off the<br />

shelves without knowledgeable<br />

staff. With a very large product<br />

range, customers are sometimes<br />

overwhelmed when they first walk<br />

into Montezuma’s. Therefore, staff<br />

need to be aware of this and try to<br />

guide them through the range<br />

without being overbearing.<br />

Chocolate can be a complicated<br />

food, with different cocoa<br />

percentages, various cocoa<br />

sources, truffles, bars and drinking<br />

chocolate as well as great price<br />

variations. It’s the best part of the<br />

job but your staff need to have<br />

tried most of the products to be<br />

able to give their opinion and have<br />

learnt the differences between the<br />

various products. If you’re not clear<br />

what those differences are, then<br />

the producers should be more<br />

than happy to give you some<br />

easy guidelines.<br />

6 Merchandising<br />

Clean, tidy and well labelled<br />

with some creative flair; these are<br />

the keys to merchandising.<br />

I can’t stand seeing dirty or dusty<br />

shelves and products. For me,<br />

neat ordered presentation is the<br />

way forward. I like to see<br />

products merchandised in their<br />

ranges to keep it simple for<br />

customers, however the more<br />

creative retailer may decide to mix<br />

up lines and use other themes to<br />

display groups of products such<br />

as colour or country of origin.<br />

Just make sure the theme is<br />

obvious to the customer and it is<br />

all labelled clearly.<br />

7 Expansion<br />

Opening up additional stores is<br />

expensive and you can make very<br />

costly mistakes very easily so the<br />

first thing to focus on is location.<br />

Just because your store format<br />

works in one street, it doesn’t<br />

mean it will work in another area.<br />

We have spent days in each town<br />

and opened stores by simply<br />

counting people walking up and<br />

down past the target store.<br />

Compare it to your current store<br />

and if it’s not as high, don’t<br />

consider taking it. When you’re<br />

happy with location, consider<br />

recruiting an experienced manager<br />

to run one of your stores.<br />

It’s really hard to try to manage<br />

two stores in different towns and<br />

the investment in a<br />

manager should be<br />

worth it. Just make<br />

sure you calculate this<br />

into your projections!<br />

A good manager<br />

should bring with them<br />

some good new ideas<br />

but make sure you spend<br />

time with them instilling<br />

your standards first.<br />

word<br />

8Finally, play to<br />

your strengths. As<br />

independent<br />

retailers, we have<br />

a huge amount of<br />

competition,<br />

from other<br />

chocolate<br />

retailers and<br />

also the<br />

supermarkets, so therefore we<br />

have to create a point of difference<br />

to succeed. Create a warm and<br />

welcome atmosphere in the store<br />

with the right music and welcome,<br />

use some nicely hand-written<br />

boards to promote different<br />

products and use your tasters.<br />

Make sure each customer receives<br />

an individual offer of help and try to<br />

engage them in conversation.<br />

People are generally very happy<br />

when they’re buying chocolate so<br />

it’s worth making the most of it!<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 15


trends<br />

What’s<br />

Sweet<br />

Paul Hargreaves, managing director of<br />

Cotswold Fayre reflects on the latest<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> trends which includes the<br />

rise of the British chocolatier<br />

Since my first foray into the<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> market ten<br />

years ago, the sector has<br />

changed remarkably,<br />

particularly in the UK. There is a<br />

huge variety of both sweet and<br />

chocolate brands and the market<br />

has increased in sophistication<br />

beyond belief. The number of<br />

artisan chocolate brands, for<br />

example in the south of England<br />

has gone from two to more than<br />

ten within the last 10 years. From a<br />

country that used to import most of<br />

its chocolate products this is<br />

encouraging. When I was a kid it<br />

had to be Swiss or Belgian<br />

chocolate, now it is almost more<br />

special to buy a loved one<br />

chocolates from the UK.<br />

I distinctively remember my first<br />

visit to ISM in Cologne and being<br />

amazed at the variety of<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> on offer from Europe,<br />

whilst virtually the only busy stand<br />

on the UK Pavilion was one selling<br />

bras and knickers made of<br />

refreshers! I am pleased to say that<br />

the UK seems to have made<br />

strides in a more positive direction<br />

in terms of innovation and<br />

sophistication within the<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> sector.<br />

A few years ago artisan<br />

producers started introducing more<br />

unusual flavours into chocolate<br />

whether in bars, novelty shapes or<br />

Easter eggs. We saw the arrival of<br />

vanilla, chilli, cardamom, and even<br />

salt and pepper. These products<br />

and flavours are still around, and<br />

more are emerging. Possibly some<br />

of the manufacturers are maybe<br />

trying just a bit too hard, but this<br />

partly comes from the market<br />

in the Market?<br />

almost reaching saturation point<br />

and chocolatiers having to produce<br />

something different to stand out<br />

from the crowd. Having said that,<br />

the quality of some of these<br />

chocolate bars is far higher than it<br />

was only a few years ago. And, on<br />

a personal note, I just love the kick<br />

from the chilli after I have enjoyed a<br />

mouthful of chocolate.<br />

Retro revival<br />

Another of the fastest growing<br />

trends in recent years, almost<br />

reaching exponential proportions<br />

has been the growth in retro<br />

sweets. Hope and Greenwood<br />

pioneered this trend, and have since<br />

been followed by several lower<br />

priced copy-cat brands. However<br />

these newer brands sometimes<br />

miss the charm, fun and playfulness<br />

that Mr Greenwood and Miss Hope<br />

bring to the retro sweet market. It is<br />

not just about the products, such as<br />

flying saucers, sherbet dips and love<br />

hearts, but the way they are<br />

presented and the story behind<br />

the products.<br />

However, many of these retro<br />

products are still using E numbers<br />

and artificial colours in their<br />

products whilst the market in our<br />

sector is demanding sweets that<br />

are free from artificial flavours and<br />

colours. Even though the colours<br />

aren’t quite as vivid, it is essential<br />

that these manufacturers move<br />

with the times if this trend is going<br />

to continue growing.<br />

The premium trend is more<br />

recent and there’s been a huge<br />

increase in<br />

awareness of<br />

what constitutes quality<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong>, and an increase in<br />

the supply base too. David Hill, MD<br />

of the <strong>confectionery</strong> marketing<br />

consultancy, Cocoda Ltd says, “It’s<br />

as if the bar has been raised so<br />

that brands like Lindt or Green and<br />

Blacks, which were considered<br />

premium and even exclusive ten<br />

years ago, have since become the<br />

entry point for premium.” Mr Hill<br />

says, “While these will always be<br />

terrific products and brands, over<br />

this period, there has been an<br />

explosion in awareness and brands<br />

at a higher level such as Hotel<br />

Chocolat, Chocca Mocca, James,<br />

up to and including brands like<br />

Paul A Young, l’Artisan du<br />

Chocolat and Melt.”<br />

Some customers are now<br />

happy to pay over £3 for a 75-<br />

100g bar of chocolate whereas the<br />

most anyone would pay a few<br />

years ago was around £1.50 -<br />

£2.00. I have been approached by<br />

many producers of chocolate bars<br />

within the last year and there is a<br />

danger of proliferation without<br />

generating the volumes needed to<br />

run a successful business. It is<br />

important to distinguish between<br />

truly artisan products here and<br />

branding companies that are simply<br />

putting their own design on<br />

chocolate bars that are all<br />

produced in the same factory in<br />

Italy or Switzerland.<br />

Finally let’s consider the ‘ethical’<br />

trend that seems to cover the<br />

greatest spread of USPs. Mr Hill<br />

comments, “These are much<br />

‘softer’ and tactile cues. Organic,<br />

fair trade, provenance, single estate<br />

all lie within this category.” There are<br />

many examples covering these<br />

trends; Summerdown Mint has an<br />

unrivalled provenance story and<br />

Prestat’s support of the ESOKO<br />

scheme are just two examples, but<br />

it is wrong to assume this is only<br />

relevant to chocolate <strong>confectionery</strong>.<br />

The Natural Candy Shop range is<br />

entirely free from artificial flavours,<br />

colourings and preservatives and a<br />

new sugar <strong>confectionery</strong> range<br />

called ‘Jealous’ which says<br />

everything from ‘Happy Birthday, to<br />

I Love you, Happy Diwali,<br />

Hanukkah and Eid’, also addresses<br />

the ethical needs of many<br />

consumers.<br />

So, clearly, it is important to<br />

stock products that exhibit one or<br />

preferably more than one of the<br />

trends talked about here. If I have<br />

one tip it would be to ensure that<br />

you include some brands that have<br />

some degree of marketing behind<br />

them that will drive some volume, as<br />

well as the brands that customers<br />

may not have heard of, but will buy<br />

on appearance and interest.<br />

16 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


toffee<br />

Refashioning<br />

Flavour<br />

Traditional toffee will always have its fans,<br />

but with limited innovation in the sector,<br />

what does the future have in store?<br />

As anyone who visited<br />

<strong>Speciality</strong> & Fine <strong>Food</strong><br />

Fair 2011 will know, there<br />

was a high concentration<br />

of stands exhibiting <strong>confectionery</strong>.<br />

From exquisite Belgian chocolates<br />

to American-inspired candies, there<br />

was a massive array on offer – no<br />

doubt attracted by the newlylaunched<br />

<strong>Speciality</strong> Chocolate Fair.<br />

The numerous companies<br />

displaying old-fashioned sweets<br />

proved that the retro <strong>confectionery</strong><br />

trend is still going strong, but one<br />

sector appeared to be slightly<br />

under-represented – toffee.<br />

While companies such as<br />

William Santus & Co (owners of the<br />

Uncle Joe’s brand) and House of<br />

Dorchester offer a few lines, there<br />

doesn’t seem to be anywhere near<br />

as much excitement in this<br />

category compared to, say,<br />

gourmet fudge. We asked Emma<br />

Walker, marketing manager for<br />

historic toffee producer Walkers’<br />

Nonsuch, if this is really the case.<br />

“Unfortunately, over the past<br />

few decades many of the small,<br />

traditional toffee companies have<br />

died out,” she explains. “Bigger<br />

producers such as Thorntons and<br />

Tangerine dominate the market<br />

quite heavily, and we’ve also been<br />

up against huge price increases in<br />

sugar and butter, so things are<br />

tough, especially for the little guy.”<br />

Walkers’ Nonsuch is arguably<br />

the most well known toffee maker in<br />

the speciality sector; originating as a<br />

sweet shop in Stoke-on-Trent<br />

during the 19th Century, the<br />

company now sells a growing<br />

selection of innovative and more<br />

recognisable lines to delis, farm<br />

shops and sweet shops. “We’re a<br />

family-run company and still use the<br />

same recipe that was developed<br />

over a century ago – including<br />

whole milk and creamy butter,” says<br />

Ms Walker. Some of the company’s<br />

gift sets even include a toffee<br />

hammer, traditionally designed to<br />

break up slabs of hard toffee.<br />

If the sector is all about<br />

nostalgia, would it be fair to say that<br />

the confection appeals to older<br />

consumers? “This demographic<br />

makes up our core customer base.<br />

They are people who have probably<br />

been eating it since they were<br />

children, so it’s really important that<br />

our original recipe stays the same,”<br />

explains Ms Walker. However the<br />

company is also looking to the<br />

future. “For a heritage brand like<br />

ours, there is a difficulty in staying<br />

true to our roots, while also<br />

keeping things fresh and engaging<br />

younger customers.”<br />

Many flavoured toffees have<br />

been added to the selection over<br />

the past few years, including<br />

Chocolate, Liquorice and Banana<br />

Split. “After our English Creamy and<br />

Treacle Toffee flavours, Liquorice is<br />

probably our biggest seller. It’s<br />

made using real liquorice root,<br />

which is said to be a kind of energy<br />

booster, and customers are always<br />

telling us how they use it as a<br />

natural pick-me-up,” she says. The<br />

Banana Split flavour is also proving<br />

particularly popular among children.<br />

“We don’t use any artificial colours,<br />

preservatives or hydrogenated fats,<br />

which really appeals to parents.<br />

Sweets are should obviously only<br />

to be eaten as an occasional treat,<br />

but I think customers really<br />

appreciate the fact that our toffees<br />

only contain ingredients they<br />

recognise,” she adds.<br />

Peter Julian, sales director of<br />

Bon Bon’s, recently noticed a gap<br />

in the company’s selection for<br />

traditional toffee. “I<br />

was looking at our<br />

retro sweet packs<br />

the other day and<br />

realised that they only thing we<br />

don’t do is toffee, so it’s definitely<br />

something we’ll look into,” he<br />

explains. Bon Bon’s sells<br />

chocolate-coated cinder toffee<br />

(also known as honeycomb), but<br />

not the hard variety. “There seems<br />

to have been a lot of innovation in<br />

the fudge sector over the past<br />

year, but development in toffee<br />

seems a bit slower. Possibly<br />

because people love the classic<br />

stuff so much,” he adds.<br />

Walkers’ Nonsuch is currently<br />

developing a number of exciting<br />

new lines, but agrees that there<br />

will always be a demand for oldfashioned<br />

toffee. “<strong>Food</strong> trends<br />

come and go, but this is<br />

something that will stay strong. I<br />

don’t think consumers will ever<br />

stop buying it,” she adds.<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 17


comment<br />

Talk<br />

Trade<br />

of the<br />

Want to know the latest <strong>confectionery</strong><br />

trends? Confectionery <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

spoke to retailers about this season’s<br />

most popular products...<br />

“The best selling confections in my shop are the flying saucers, they<br />

are a sweet that all kids love but they also tap into the retro sweet<br />

market so adults ask for them too. The most extreme sweets we sell<br />

are the mega sour sweets which are incredible and come with a<br />

caution. I even got a letter from the manufacturers reminding me to<br />

remind the customers of the caution. We do a lot of things to get our<br />

name known locally. It’s a standard area of practice really. We have a<br />

stall at Nottingham theater and we try and sell our sweets at as many<br />

local events as possible. We do also put a lot of time into our window<br />

displays which we change seasonally and in time for big events such<br />

as Easter and Christmas.”<br />

Ashley Naylor, Sugar and Spice, Notthingham<br />

“We sell an awful lot of chocolate bars – our salt ones in particular are<br />

very popular. We’ve definitely got some particular flavours that are<br />

trendy such as date and ginger; orange, lemon and geranium; rose<br />

and black pepper and caramel, peanut and black pepper. We also sell<br />

a lot of broken slabs of chocolate with freeze-dried raspberries.”<br />

Kristina Currie, Coco Chocolate, Edinburgh<br />

“We do quite a lot of single origin chocolates from Peru, Madagascar,<br />

Venezuala. It’s just like wine or coffee; where provenance of the cocoa<br />

bean will really contribute to the finished product. There are so many<br />

factors; the climate, weather, the amount of rainfall they get all makes<br />

a difference. I think it’s the way forward for chocolate really and I feel<br />

people are waking up to the fact that cocoa beans will have different<br />

tastes and textures depending on where they come from. I think<br />

celebrity chocolatiers such as Willie Harcourt-Cooze have actually<br />

been really good for the industry. He has taught people to appreciate<br />

the different flavours of chocolate. Our best sellers are definitely the<br />

fresh truffles we make everyday on sight. We use locally sourced<br />

ingredients, which is really important to our customers.”<br />

Andrea Parsons, I Should Coco, St Ives<br />

“At the moment we have<br />

a local company<br />

producing chocolate<br />

exclusively for us. They do<br />

a lot of different flavours<br />

such as mint chocolate<br />

chip and peanut butter,<br />

and sell really well. We’ve<br />

just got a big American<br />

range in which features<br />

iconic <strong>confectionery</strong> such<br />

as Willy Wonka, Reese’s<br />

pieces, tootsie rolls, candy<br />

corns, and Hersheys. Also<br />

the old favourites such as<br />

rhubarb and custard are<br />

doing really well – we have<br />

over three hundred jars full<br />

of retro sweets – people<br />

see it and get excited<br />

saying, “we haven’t seen<br />

this in years!”<br />

Carrie Hope Fletcher,<br />

The Olde Sweet Shop,<br />

Norwich<br />

18 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


comment<br />

“We sell locally-produced fudge which does very well, and also a lot of<br />

traditional sweets such as Turkish delight and liquorice. Our best seller<br />

is crystallised stem ginger – both plain and chocolate-covered. The<br />

older generation tend to go for the classic ginger whereas children<br />

tend to go for as much chocolate as they can get!”<br />

Michael Foreman, Village Delicatessen, Wivenhoe<br />

"Hope and Greenwood’s current<br />

best sellers are our Jolly Mixture<br />

Funbags, Tuck Shop Jars,<br />

Rhubarb and Custard Ration<br />

Jars, and Champagne Truffles in<br />

packaging inspired by fabrics<br />

from 1890. Rather than rest on<br />

our laurels we’ve also<br />

created Fizz! Bang!<br />

Wallops! which are extremely<br />

fizzy and Foaming Blue Cherries<br />

which foam up wildly in the<br />

mouth. We see a trend in<br />

products and sweets that are warm and comforting, given this<br />

economic climate, customers are looking for things that hark back to<br />

our childhoods (or our grandparents’ childhoods) when things seemed<br />

simpler. This goes perfectly with my brand rule, ‘if my Auntie Mary had<br />

it in her pantry - then we stock it.’"<br />

Miss Hope, Hope & Greenwood, London<br />

“We sell mainly individual chocolates, and have cabinets for both<br />

classic chocolates and novelty chocolates. We’ve made a name for<br />

ourselves by ensuring that our products are always very high quality.<br />

The special themed chocolates that we sell during the holidays –<br />

Christmas, Easter and Valentines Day always do very well.”<br />

Natalie Faulkes, Monk Bar Chocolates, York<br />

“We make a chocolate which represents the goddess Minerva. In<br />

Belgium the chocolates are often made to represent someone local,<br />

maybe a mythical god or a saint. People like to identify their chocolate<br />

with something or someone who is symbolic of the place they’ve<br />

visited, like an edible souvenir. We do a lot of small individual chocolates<br />

called carraques. We have them in flower shapes; roses and violets.<br />

They’re wafer thin and people like to have them with coffee. In the<br />

summer people don’t want chocolate that is going to melt in your<br />

hands so you need something sturdy with a high melting point which<br />

can survive the hot weather. When it was the cherry season, cherries<br />

dipped in a dark chocolate were very popular. Another favourite is my<br />

big chocolate breasts that I sell in the front window. They attract quite a<br />

crowd and are a bit of fun; naughty but nice!”<br />

Philippe Wall, master chocolatier at Minerva, Bath<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 19


fairtrade<br />

Paying a<br />

Fair Price<br />

With ethical chocolate making up ten<br />

percent of all <strong>confectionery</strong> sales,<br />

Eileen Maybin of the Fairtrade<br />

Foundation reveals what steps<br />

retailers and producers are taking<br />

to further this figure<br />

Sales of UK Fairtrade<br />

chocolate have soared in the<br />

last few years as consumers<br />

can now indulge their<br />

passion for chocolate and ethics<br />

together with over 500 ethical<br />

chocolate <strong>confectionery</strong> products.<br />

The ten-fold growth in retail<br />

sales from £32m in 2008 to £343m<br />

in 2010 is largely due to mainstream<br />

brands converting popular<br />

chocolate bars like Cadbury Dairy<br />

Milk and Nestlé’s four-finger Kit Kat<br />

to Fairtrade, but it is also because of<br />

exciting innovations in the category<br />

by independent premium chocolate<br />

companies and own-label fine<br />

chocolate ranges. With the total<br />

category worth £3.2bn in 2010,<br />

Fairtrade sales now make up<br />

around ten percent of UK chocolate<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> sales.<br />

“We are delighted that the UK<br />

chocolate industry is embracing<br />

Fairtrade in this way because there<br />

is a real appetite for it among the<br />

public who want to see businesses<br />

treating farmers fairly and<br />

supporting the communities they<br />

live in,” says Harriet Lamb, executive<br />

director of the Fairtrade Foundation.<br />

“The public see buying ethical<br />

chocolate as a way to make a real<br />

difference to cocoa farmers with<br />

every purchase.”<br />

A recent survey, commissioned<br />

by the Fairtrade Foundation, found<br />

that UK consumers continue to<br />

have high expectations of how<br />

companies operate in developing<br />

countries. Over 80% of interviewees<br />

said companies should protect the<br />

environment and ensure farmers<br />

and workers are paid fairly and have<br />

safe working conditions. Fairtrade<br />

aims to improve living standards<br />

and conditions for farmers and<br />

farming communities, and so<br />

support the development of a<br />

sustainable cocoa sector.<br />

While the value of the global<br />

chocolate <strong>confectionery</strong> trade<br />

continues to grow, the benefits have<br />

not always been shared with cocoa<br />

growing communities where access<br />

to clean water, electricity, decent<br />

healthcare and education are rare.<br />

Decades of low commodity prices,<br />

exacerbated by rising farm and<br />

household expenses, mean cocoa<br />

farmers struggle to provide for their<br />

families and are unable to invest in<br />

improving the productivity or quality<br />

of their crop. Their children are often<br />

seeing no future in the cocoa<br />

industry, and are therefore deserting<br />

the farms and moving to the cities.<br />

As a result the industry could soon<br />

see a decline in production and face<br />

a shortage of its vital ingredient.<br />

By participating in Fairtrade, the<br />

farmers benefit from a stable price<br />

that enables them to plan their<br />

family and household budgets.<br />

Their cooperatives are able to<br />

access pre-financing, develop longterm<br />

partnerships with chocolate<br />

companies, develop their farming<br />

businesses, strengthen their<br />

organisations, and invest the<br />

premium in much needed<br />

community development.<br />

Divine Chocolate, the chocolate<br />

company which has always blazed<br />

a trail for Fairtrade being part-owned<br />

by the 63,000 small-scale cocoa<br />

farmers of the Kuapa Kokoo cooperative<br />

in Ghana, continues to<br />

introduce new Fairtrade products to<br />

its range and develop creative ideas<br />

to improve its existing products and<br />

modernise its marketing.<br />

Cake maker to the stars, Lily<br />

Vanilli says, “With Divine, you’re<br />

drawn to them because their<br />

products are Fairtrade, but once<br />

you’ve tried it, it’s all about the<br />

chocolate.” The range of 12<br />

chocolate flavours, in 100g bars,<br />

includes Dark Chocolate with<br />

Ginger & Orange, White Chocolate<br />

with Strawberries, and Hazelnut<br />

Milk Chocolate.<br />

This year Divine has also<br />

changed the look of its chocolate.<br />

The bars now feature traditional<br />

Adinkra symbols, evoking Divine’s<br />

Ghanian heritage. The motifs carry<br />

meanings which reflect ancient<br />

proverbs, human characteristics,<br />

and historical events. And, in a bid<br />

to remain current, Divine recently<br />

announced the launch of the new<br />

Divine Chocolate App for iPhone<br />

and iPad, designed by creative<br />

agency Uber London.<br />

The Co-operative supermarket<br />

has enjoyed a long and commited<br />

relationship with Divine Chocolate.<br />

Over the years significant benefits<br />

have been delivered to communities<br />

in Ghana thanks to The Cooperative<br />

customers. The most<br />

recent investment has seen the<br />

building of a three-classroom block<br />

and ‘The Co-operative House’, in<br />

New Koforidua where the people of<br />

the town host paying guests and<br />

can add tourism income to their<br />

farming livelihoods as well as<br />

enjoying the building as a new<br />

community centre.<br />

And, it is not just supermarkets<br />

that have started to focus more on<br />

20 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


Fairtrade brands. Chocolatier,<br />

Thorntons also continue to bring out<br />

new Fairtrade offerings, recently<br />

introducing three new 80g blocks:<br />

Fairtrade Milk Banana Chocolate<br />

Block, using Fairtrade organic<br />

bananas from Ecuador; Fairtrade<br />

White Choc Block with Vanilla, and<br />

Dark Apricot Chocolate Block;<br />

where the sweet Fairtrade organic<br />

apricots from the Hunza Valley of<br />

Pakistan add a twist to the hazelnut<br />

notes of the organic dark chocolate.<br />

The first ever fairly traded<br />

chocolate to arrive on UK shop<br />

shelves in 1994 was the premium<br />

chocolate brand Green & Black’s<br />

Maya Gold bar which is made with<br />

organic cocoa from Belize. This year<br />

again, Green & Black’s set an<br />

industry standard, announcing news<br />

of Fairtrade certification across its<br />

entire block bar offering. Neil La<br />

Croix, head of sustainability,<br />

explains, “Green & Black’s is a<br />

brand which was built on ethical<br />

principles, and will continue to do<br />

Image: Simon Rawles<br />

Image: Gary Roberts<br />

so, recognising the incredibly<br />

important role that the suppliers<br />

have to play in helping us to create<br />

the quality product that everyone<br />

knows and loves. The cost of<br />

trading fairly and securing supplies<br />

ethically makes good business<br />

sense, and this is a principle shared<br />

by Fairtrade with whom we have<br />

had a long-standing relationship”.<br />

Meanwhile the ethical artisan<br />

chocolate producers who choose<br />

Fairtrade as it fits with its brand<br />

identify continue to come up with<br />

new fun ideas. Cocoa Loco, the<br />

small family firm who started up its<br />

business from its kitchen in West<br />

Sussex aiming to make premium<br />

treats in an accessible and<br />

affordable style, has recently added<br />

a Dark Chocolate & Mint Hot<br />

Chocolate Spoon to the range of<br />

three others.The 30g of chocolate<br />

can be eaten off the wooden spoon<br />

or stirred into hot milk to make a hot<br />

chocolate drink.<br />

Gourmet chocolatier Feeding<br />

Your Imagination, who say it<br />

produces chocolate with<br />

therapeutic oils and herbs to<br />

promote inner well-being, has just<br />

launched a ‘Traditional’ range of<br />

three bars in classic dark, milk or<br />

‘secret’. The pre-packed chocolate<br />

giftbox contains the three 85g bars.<br />

And, nothing quite says ‘gifts’ like<br />

bespoke chocolates from<br />

Chocolala. Handmade and handpackaged<br />

Chocolala chocolates<br />

highlight extravagance with its<br />

chocolate mango sticks and white<br />

chocolate tulips.<br />

All of these chocolatey<br />

developments mean that more and<br />

more farmers have been able to<br />

participate in the Fairtrade system<br />

and sell more of their crop on ethical<br />

terms. Now 62 Fairtrade certified<br />

producer organisations represent<br />

more than 120,000 farmers across<br />

18 countries from the Dominican<br />

Republic to Haiti, and Sierra Leone<br />

to Sri Lanka.<br />

This year has seen challenges<br />

to the cocoa farmers in Côte<br />

d’Ivoire where the post-election<br />

violence brought misery to many<br />

rural communities. However,<br />

Fairtrade is supporting producers to<br />

develop a recovery programme.<br />

Meanwhile the grassroots<br />

consumer base continues to grow<br />

in the UK with 520 Fairtrade Towns<br />

where strong networks of schools,<br />

faith groups and workplaces actively<br />

promote Fairtrade, meaning that<br />

recognition of the mark has grown<br />

to 77% of UK consumers and nine<br />

out of ten consumers trust<br />

Fairtrade. The Fairtrade Foundation<br />

hopes that, as more and more UK<br />

consumers see purchasing<br />

Fairtrade goods as a powerful and<br />

credible way of reducing poverty<br />

through their everyday shopping,<br />

chocolate sales will continue to<br />

grow so that more cocoa<br />

communities benefit.<br />

Divine Chocolate is a brand that’s<br />

won hearts and minds – and offers<br />

a great range of flavours that look<br />

fabulous on retailers’ shelves<br />

profile<br />

Divine&<br />

Delicious<br />

In Divine, chocolate lovers<br />

have discovered a perfect<br />

combination – delicious rich<br />

smooth natural chocolate,<br />

with all sorts of exciting flavours to<br />

choose from – and a company<br />

shoppers can believe in.<br />

Divine puts product excellence<br />

and choice first – with a great range<br />

of bars and an exceptional selection<br />

of seasonal specialities and gifts that<br />

grows every year. Chocolate lovers<br />

expect good chocolate from the<br />

brand, but they also love that Divine<br />

is an independent company owned<br />

by cocoa farmers, proving that it’s<br />

possible, and fun, to do business<br />

differently. Whether it’s sponsorship<br />

of Chocolate Week, being the<br />

official chocolate bar at Glastonbury,<br />

entering the Divine Women Awards,<br />

teaching Fairtrade at schools – or<br />

just chatting to Divine on Facebook<br />

– there are many ways people join<br />

and enjoy the world of Divine.<br />

Interesting flavours<br />

Divine’s stand-out flavours – such<br />

as dark chocolate with raspberry,<br />

white chocolate with strawberry,<br />

and dark chocolate with ginger and<br />

orange have all been huge hits, and<br />

new delights are in the pipeline. To<br />

make the moment you open a bar<br />

even more Divine, the chocolate<br />

mould now features<br />

the Adinkra symbols<br />

you’ll recognise from<br />

the packaging. They<br />

represent Divine’s<br />

Ghanaian roots and<br />

each one has its<br />

own meaning.<br />

For Christmas<br />

the company is<br />

introducing solid chocolate discs in<br />

two flavours – dark with raspberry<br />

and dark with mint – both in pretty<br />

gift boxes, and the most beautiful<br />

illustration yet on its popular Advent<br />

Calendar. Next year you can expect<br />

some tasty additions to the<br />

Valentine and Easter range, as well<br />

as thicker shelled chocolate eggs.<br />

The cocoa in Divine is sourced<br />

directly from Ghana: grown,<br />

harvested, fermented and dried with<br />

care by the farmers who take great<br />

pride in the chocolate company<br />

they own. In turn, the people at<br />

Divine take their inspiration from the<br />

cooperative that voted to start the<br />

company, and from those who help<br />

to spread the message. And, it’s not<br />

just individuals who pass the word<br />

on – Divine is also lucky enough to<br />

be the partner of choice for a variety<br />

of big brands who want to reward<br />

its customers, add value, and grow<br />

their business.<br />

Image: Brian Moody<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 21


interview<br />

Meet the<br />

Buyer<br />

Few chocolate shops boast a<br />

church altar as a centrepiece.<br />

Then again, Paul A. Young is<br />

radically different to most<br />

chocolatiers and his new shop in Soho<br />

is a unique space, says Steven Pierce<br />

Appropriately for retail<br />

premises in the heart of<br />

Theatreland, Paul’s new<br />

shop has more than a<br />

touch of the theatrical about it. “It<br />

doesn’t look like any other shop on<br />

the street,” he tells me in the<br />

whitewashed basement kitchen of<br />

143 Wardour Street. “It has a<br />

dramatic front but it’s not overly<br />

designed. It’s a very clean-lined<br />

shop front. It is purple – very purple<br />

– and has big windows right down<br />

to the floor. When you stand there,<br />

you can’t miss it. After all having an<br />

altar in your shop is very theatrical!”<br />

Paul is one of the world’s most<br />

respected chocolatiers. He has won<br />

dozens of awards from the<br />

Academy of Chocolate and his<br />

publication, Adventures With<br />

Chocolate won World’s Best<br />

Chocolate Book at last year’s<br />

Gourmand Cookbook Awards.<br />

Since he and business partner<br />

James Cronin opened their first<br />

chocolaterie in Islington in 2006,<br />

Paul has become synonymous with<br />

unusual, daring and exciting flavour<br />

combinations. Chocolates flavoured<br />

with ingredients such as Stilton,<br />

Marmite and Stout have made him<br />

famous and continue to distinguish<br />

him from London’s other artisan<br />

chocolatiers, and to provide him<br />

with a crucial point of difference.<br />

Paul is the first of London’s new<br />

wave of artisan chocolatiers to open<br />

a third shop, and he attributes the<br />

success of his stores to the quality of<br />

his ever-changing range of products,<br />

which helps ensure repeat custom.<br />

Paul’s chocolates are handmade<br />

with the finest seasonal ingredients,<br />

and many are sourced locally. These<br />

qualities are clearly manifested in his<br />

stunning new Summer Collection,<br />

launched to coincide with the<br />

opening of the new shop. Paul’s<br />

creativity is expressed in delicious yet<br />

unexpected combinations such as<br />

limoncello and parsley; coconut<br />

water and lemon grass; tomato, basil<br />

and olive oil; goat’s cheese, rosemary<br />

and lemon; orange and tarragon;<br />

and Kernel Brewery stout with dark<br />

muscovado – a particular highlight.<br />

Location, location<br />

I ask Paul why he chose Soho as the<br />

location of his flagship chocolaterie.<br />

“James and I always wanted to be in<br />

Soho,” he explains. “We both used to<br />

work in Soho and I love the feel of the<br />

place and the people: they’re creative,<br />

they’re edgy, they’re foodie. It was just<br />

a question of finding a location in<br />

Soho that I could afford and that<br />

would work, with the right dimensions<br />

and kitchen space. Everything we’ve<br />

worked for in the past five years has<br />

gone into this shop so it had to work<br />

on every single level.”<br />

Despite Soho becoming<br />

something of a foodie area in recent<br />

years, Paul isn’t worried about the<br />

prospect of competition. “I don’t<br />

think we have any competition here<br />

because we don’t do anything that<br />

anyone else does,” he insists.<br />

“There are cupcake shops,<br />

bakeries, patisseries, delicatessens<br />

and restaurants, but no chocolate<br />

shops. I think it’s a good mix; we<br />

complement each other. The<br />

feedback from customers so far has<br />

been that they’re glad we’re here.”<br />

While the chocolates in Paul’s<br />

new chocolaterie perpetuate the<br />

gastronomic principles for which he<br />

has become so respected, the<br />

shop itself has its own identity. It<br />

may carry Paul’s signature deep<br />

purple colour, but his new flagship is<br />

larger and more dramatic than his<br />

Islington and City of London shops,<br />

which feel more intimate by<br />

comparison. Upon stepping into his<br />

Soho chocolaterie, customers are<br />

greeted by a large central wooden<br />

table used to showcase the<br />

Summer Collection. “I wanted the<br />

chocolates to be on show, not<br />

behind glass,” Paul explains.<br />

He clearly put a lot of thought<br />

into the design of the chocolaterie.<br />

“It was not a generic shop fit,” Paul<br />

recalls. “I believe that I cannot brief a<br />

designer to deliver the kind of shop<br />

that I want. If I can find things myself,<br />

it might take longer, but then I am<br />

not confined. It wasn’t a shop fit<br />

where everything’s fixed; everything<br />

is movable, so the layout of the shop<br />

could change. One day I might think<br />

that the brownies should be in the<br />

other window; we might decide that<br />

the chocolates should be on the<br />

altar. It just means that we have<br />

flexibility. You don’t want to invest all<br />

that money in something that’s<br />

attached to the walls and then<br />

realise it’s not quite working.<br />

“Everything in the shop has<br />

been picked by me,” he continues.<br />

“There’s a lot of my personality in<br />

there. They’re all different pieces of<br />

furniture, either recycled, up-cycled<br />

or handmade. I found the wallpaper<br />

[which is adorned with black and<br />

white cocoa pods] in Cole & Son<br />

and knew I had to have it. The<br />

beautiful glass cabinet with the<br />

brownies on is from a 1910 Parisian<br />

shop counter. Some of it was very<br />

last minute: the altar arrived in the<br />

last week or so, and so did the<br />

table [July 2011]. The dresser came<br />

five days ago. It was very last<br />

minute because you can’t buy it all<br />

together then put it in and realise it<br />

doesn’t work.<br />

22 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


interview<br />

“Before the first week of<br />

opening, we had no products in the<br />

shop. We just had all the furniture<br />

and a sign saying when we were<br />

opening. And people were stopping<br />

and looking in, just at the props we<br />

had in the shop, and the décor. If<br />

you had those pieces in your home,<br />

it wouldn’t work because they’re all<br />

very different – but it’s a eye-catching<br />

look in retail. Nothing looks the same<br />

but they’re all very interesting in their<br />

“We needed a big<br />

counter, then we<br />

saw this altar and<br />

thought that it<br />

would fit”<br />

own way, in an architectural and<br />

structural sense. I could live in a<br />

house that’s split down the middle:<br />

modern on one side and classic on<br />

the other, and that’s what I tried to do<br />

with the shop.”<br />

Getting the<br />

atmosphere right<br />

I tell Paul that walking into his new<br />

chocolaterie feels like entering<br />

someone’s home, perhaps his own.<br />

“I’ve seen this shop since it was<br />

absolutely rotten,” he tells me. “I’ve<br />

grown with it. When I walk in, it feels<br />

like me, so I don’t see it quite as<br />

dramatically as other people. I see<br />

everything that’s in the shop as<br />

something I would personally own.<br />

Especially the chandelier! It was<br />

made by a lady who owns a<br />

company called Roast Designs. It’s<br />

a very small company: she makes<br />

everything herself down in Herne<br />

Hill. She has all the glass made to<br />

her specifications. So we had a<br />

consultation about the size, shape,<br />

colours and textures. That was an<br />

exciting project because the<br />

chandelier is one of the focal points<br />

of the room. If that wasn’t right then<br />

it could have spoiled the room.”<br />

If the chandelier is one of the<br />

chocolaterie’s focal points, the<br />

church altar is certainly the most<br />

unusual. “There’s been a mixed<br />

reaction to the altar,” Paul<br />

concedes. “One lady said, ‘I’m not<br />

really sure you should have an altar.’<br />

Some people feel on a personal<br />

level that it’s not quite right. But I<br />

don’t see it as being something<br />

shocking or out of the ordinary.”<br />

So Paul didn’t choose the altar<br />

to make an explicit statement about<br />

religion? “Not at all,” he insists. “We<br />

needed a big counter, then we saw<br />

this altar and thought that it would<br />

fit. People do say, ‘I worship your<br />

chocolates’ so we just saw it and<br />

thought ‘yes’. And it’s got a ‘P’ and<br />

an ‘A’ on the front, very oddly. It just<br />

fitted as soon as we saw it. That<br />

was the first big piece of furniture<br />

we picked and it looks lovely<br />

against that wall. It won’t fit<br />

anywhere else in the shop though! I<br />

love it. When I retire or sell the<br />

business, I will take that with me. It’ll<br />

become a dining table or a<br />

breakfast bar!”<br />

Paul strikes me as the kind of<br />

person who would find it difficult to<br />

step away from his business, such<br />

is his passion and attention to detail.<br />

I tell him that I can’t envisage him<br />

ever selling the Paul A. Young<br />

brand. “In ten, 15 or 20 years, the<br />

point will come when I’ll want to be<br />

the creative director but not making<br />

chocolates every day,” he thinks.<br />

“The business will evolve and move<br />

on. I am a workaholic, but I’m not<br />

OCD with it: I can have a day out of<br />

the business and not feel tied to it.”<br />

For now, however, Paul is<br />

focused on his new flagship<br />

chocolaterie. “This is my space now<br />

until my team are up and running,<br />

fully trained and know what they’re<br />

doing, then I can float between the<br />

three,” he says. Paul also claims that<br />

he can’t envisage opening any more<br />

shops in London. That may be<br />

unfortunate news for chocolate<br />

connoisseurs living in the Capital, but<br />

for those living elsewhere, it offers the<br />

exciting – if distant – prospect of Paul<br />

A. Young’s incredible creations<br />

finding a wider audience.<br />

Steven Pierce is a food writer<br />

and can be contacted via<br />

www.stevensfoodieadventures.<br />

blogspot.com or<br />

www.facebook.com/adventure<br />

sofafoodie and<br />

www.twitter.com/#!/Aoa<strong>Food</strong>ie<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 23


opinion<br />

Going<br />

Against<br />

Most well-known British chocolatiers<br />

are firstly male and secondly situated<br />

in London. Shelly Preston, owner of<br />

Boutique Aromatique discusses<br />

how she is breaking conventions<br />

The capital has been quick<br />

to recognise the beauty of<br />

a fine chocolaterie.<br />

Chocolate savvy<br />

department stores such as Fortnum<br />

& Mason and Selfridges are hot on<br />

the heels of new chocolate talent<br />

and house some of the finest niche<br />

brands from around the world.<br />

Boutique hotels are also fast<br />

recognising the merits of fine<br />

chocolate and are beginning to<br />

present their guests with pillow gifts<br />

of ‘the real thing’. But what about<br />

outside of London? What is the real<br />

thing and where can we buy it in the<br />

East Midlands? The sad truth is,<br />

barely anywhere and certainly not on<br />

most high streets. But, this attitude<br />

has started to change, with<br />

chocolatiers such as Shelly Preston<br />

making an appearance in retail.<br />

Setting up shop in July 2011,<br />

Shelly currently owns a chocolate<br />

boutique which adjoins the Welbeck<br />

Farm Shop. The store is in an<br />

award-winning, contemporary/rustic,<br />

glass-fronted building on one of<br />

Britain’s finest family owned estates<br />

(Welbeck in Nottinghamshire). Here<br />

the Grain<br />

Shelly comments on her latest<br />

venture. “The decision to make our<br />

first foray into retail in a rural location<br />

was a very easy one. North<br />

Nottinghamshire is in my bones. I<br />

was born and raised here and now<br />

live just ten minutes away from<br />

Welbeck. And, although I hadn’t<br />

lived in the area for nearly 20 years,<br />

most of my family still do so I have<br />

natural affinity and easy rapport with<br />

local people.”<br />

Distinct training<br />

Shelly was privately trained with one<br />

of the current UK’s chocolate<br />

masters, ‘John Costello’ and<br />

subsequently qualified with distinction<br />

as a patissier. Shelly immersed<br />

herself in the technicalities and<br />

nuances of working with chocolate in<br />

her beloved, purpose built chocolate<br />

lab and sought out the finest food<br />

ingredients and oils that have always<br />

inspired her until she was finally ready<br />

to launch her own chocolate<br />

collection. “Over the years I learned<br />

to identify good chocolate from bad,<br />

the beauty from the beast and<br />

acquired the skill essential to match<br />

favour with flavour,” she says.<br />

After many happy years and<br />

successes in London and spurredon<br />

by a move back to her home<br />

county of Nottinghamshire, the time<br />

felt right to turn her growing passion<br />

for chocolate into reality. Shelly began<br />

her chocolate career running a<br />

monthly stall at a successful spring<br />

market in Welbeck Estate, but due to<br />

popular demand it was soon<br />

migrated to bi-weekly. After realising<br />

where her strengths lie, Shelly<br />

decided to set up shop at Welbeck;<br />

she describes the location.<br />

“We share a walled courtyard<br />

with an art gallery and café – both<br />

housed in impressive, converted<br />

original stone buildings – so it was<br />

important to us that whilst we set<br />

ourselves apart we also struck a<br />

careful balance between old and<br />

new. We kept the warmth and<br />

rusticity of the bare brick, stone walls<br />

and terracotta floors which are a<br />

distinctive feature of the farm shop<br />

and merged our style within.<br />

“Boutique Aromatique branding<br />

has a slight vintage feel but I had to<br />

resist the temptation of making the<br />

nostalgic references too obvious. The<br />

resulting backdrop of sleek, white<br />

fittings with duck egg blue quarry<br />

tiled counters provides an elegance<br />

and freshness. It allows me to add<br />

fresh floral displays and the vintage<br />

elements I love such as art deco wall<br />

vases, sandwich plates and<br />

traditional weighing scales – without<br />

it looking too cutesy. Contrasted with<br />

warm woods, corian signage and<br />

modern, acrylic point of sale we<br />

seem to have found the right mix of<br />

materials which reflects our brand<br />

and also rubs along quite nicely with<br />

the farm shop,” she says.<br />

Shelly comments on how she<br />

wanted to make her designs stand<br />

out from the traditional way<br />

24 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


chocolate shops are presented. “The<br />

overwhelming majority of my<br />

chocolate heros and inspirations are<br />

male and it shows in their<br />

presentation and branding which is<br />

so often brown/black, dark and<br />

mysterious in some way. The idea of<br />

chocolate as a secret society does<br />

not appeal to me at all and actually,<br />

demystifying chocolate and breaking<br />

down some of the pretensions to my<br />

customers is important. I want<br />

lightness, colour, openness,<br />

modernity and beauty to carry<br />

through everything we do.<br />

“Also, I wasn’t afraid of Boutique<br />

Aromatique having an overtly<br />

feminine appeal. That is not to say I<br />

am ignoring men. Men are incredibly<br />

passionate about ‘real’ chocolate<br />

and actually, I find them much more<br />

experimental and open to new<br />

flavours than women, but female<br />

shoppers still account for the majority<br />

of chocolate sales.” With a<br />

background working as a product<br />

developer in the independent beauty<br />

and well-being industry, Shelley<br />

believes she has a greater<br />

understanding of women’s<br />

psychology than men. “The industry I<br />

previously worked in gave me direct<br />

access to many women who<br />

appreciate a little luxury – whether it<br />

be buying an artisan perfume or<br />

shopping in great apothecaries and<br />

beauty halls. I therefore felt a<br />

responsibility to create a pleasant<br />

environment and in-store experience<br />

for them,” says Shelly.<br />

Delivering a<br />

unique service<br />

As well as creating an inviting<br />

atmosphere exteriorly in her shop,<br />

Shelly further comments on how<br />

she delivers great customer service.<br />

“I am at the boutique most days,<br />

either serving or working in my<br />

prep/finishing space at the farm<br />

shop so I’m usually around to speak<br />

to customers. Approachable,<br />

honest and enthusiastic would best<br />

“The idea of chocolate as a secret society<br />

does not appeal to me at all and actually,<br />

demystifying chocolate and breaking<br />

down some of the pretensions to my<br />

customers is important”<br />

describe our attitude to service.<br />

Customers ask all kinds of<br />

questions from what to drink with a<br />

particular chocolate to how to make<br />

a good sweet paste and I’m always<br />

happy to share my knowledge.<br />

“In keeping with slaying<br />

chocolate pretences I will very often<br />

temper the complexity of a flavour in<br />

order for it to not appear alien.<br />

Describing my Yuzu, Tangerine, Pink<br />

Grapefruit and Pimento Berry flavour<br />

as a classic ‘citrus and spice’<br />

combination with an almost<br />

Christmassy feel is a classic example<br />

of how we communicate. This is in<br />

no way meant to dumb-down or<br />

patronise, merely to create a space<br />

of familiarity in which the customer is<br />

happy to venture. For any budding<br />

chocolatier or burgeoning<br />

connoisseur, recommending the right<br />

book at the correct stage in their<br />

opinion<br />

journey can change everything for<br />

them and I personally find that very<br />

satisfying,” she says.<br />

To introduce more customers to<br />

the world of chocolate Shelly believes<br />

shoppers should be given as much<br />

as knowledge as possible. “I want<br />

my customers to have a greater<br />

understanding about the chocolate<br />

we use in our recipes and I have<br />

found that retailing branded bars<br />

from my suppliers works incredibly<br />

well. The connection between what I<br />

do and what the producer does<br />

becomes tangible.” As well as<br />

offering fresh chocolates and<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 25


opinion<br />

patisserie, the chocolatier also makes<br />

her own hot chocolate and<br />

marshmallow and pate du fruits<br />

confections, which are all very<br />

popular. The books and luxury larder<br />

ingredients also service the baking<br />

enthusiast well, while the gourmet<br />

popcorn ‘adds a little bit of fun’ to<br />

the shop’s offer.<br />

By fulfilling customers’ needs<br />

and getting to know the clientèle<br />

in a relatively short space of time,<br />

Shelly has acquired a fair amount<br />

of regulars which have warranted<br />

her success so far. “At first, the<br />

thought of opening my first<br />

boutique on the high street<br />

terrified me. Relying on passing<br />

trade is tough and can be soul<br />

destroying. It can take years to<br />

build up your regular flow of<br />

customers so there is no doubt<br />

that the prospect of an almost<br />

guaranteed customer footfall<br />

coming into the farm shop was an<br />

enormously attractive prospect for<br />

my fledgling business. Also, the<br />

old adage ‘stick to what you<br />

know’ never felt more relevant. I<br />

understand my local customer,<br />

how they live and where they<br />

come from and that knowledge<br />

has played a huge part in the early<br />

success of Boutique Aromatique.<br />

In addition, Welbeck is a fantastic<br />

place to visit so we have the<br />

fortune of capitalising on a steady<br />

tourist trade. It works for us.”<br />

Leading, not following<br />

In terms of future trends, what does<br />

Shelly think is popular at the moment<br />

and what does she predict for the<br />

future? “I spent 12 years living in the<br />

capital so I can speak with some<br />

authority that trends are much more<br />

geographically and demographically<br />

lead than trendsetters would have us<br />

believe. Regardless of the glut of<br />

food journalism and TV cookery<br />

programmes, ideas and concepts<br />

don’t always resonate with the<br />

average person. I’m a big believer in<br />

not following trends.<br />

“It’s fair to say that the race for<br />

salted caramels will run and<br />

run..particularly outside of the capital<br />

as it’s still a novel concept; in the<br />

Midlands anyway. I certainly agree<br />

with Sara Jayne Stanes that not<br />

enough of us (chocolatiers) are<br />

creating collections of plain, individual<br />

chocolates and truffles. I’m as guilty as<br />

the next for conjuring-up multi-layered<br />

flavours whilst ignoring the beauty of<br />

plain chococolate which, as we know,<br />

when excellently cultivated and cared<br />

for bursts and pops with flavours all<br />

on its own. I’d therefore like to see a<br />

growing trend for celebrating the ‘not<br />

so plain’ chocolate...wouldn’t you?”<br />

concludes Shelly.<br />

For more information about<br />

the new shop please see<br />

www.boutiquearomatique.com<br />

or call 01623 812 532.<br />

26 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


Royalty<br />

Chocolate<br />

Cyprus may not be renowned for its<br />

chocolate, but one tiny retailer is<br />

creating a storm with its unusual<br />

confection – made using local royal jelly<br />

From goji berries to green tea,<br />

so-called ‘superfoods’ have<br />

dominated the health pages<br />

of magazines and<br />

newspapers for years. Confectionery<br />

companies have also taken<br />

advantage of the trend, combining<br />

dried fruits, seeds and even speciality<br />

teas with chocolate to create<br />

sweets that appeal to more health<br />

conscious consumers.<br />

Cyprus Chocolate, a small<br />

chocolate retailer and producer, has<br />

been creating its own variety of<br />

‘health-giving’ confectionary – called<br />

Flava Chocolates, made using<br />

locally-sourced royal jelly – for over a<br />

decade. Owners Praxi and John<br />

Adams had a successful hospitality<br />

business in London, but decided to<br />

move back to Cyprus (Praxi’s<br />

homeland) to enjoy their retirement.<br />

However, this was short-lived when<br />

John – a trained chocolatier –<br />

stumbled upon a new and exciting<br />

way to make chocolate. “Fresh isn’t<br />

readily available in Cyprus, so making<br />

a truffle or ganache filling without it is<br />

quite difficult,” starts Praxi. “However,<br />

condensed milk is incredibly popular<br />

here and John struck upon the idea<br />

of combining it with cocoa. He called<br />

it ‘Cypriot ganache’ and this simple<br />

recipe is now used all over the island<br />

and worldwide.”<br />

Historic superfoods<br />

The addition of royal jelly was actually<br />

inspired by a centuries-old local<br />

tradition. “Eating royal jelly as a health<br />

supplement may be quite a new idea<br />

in the UK, but Cypriot people have<br />

been doing it for a very long time.<br />

According to many of the older men<br />

in our village, it is a natural<br />

aphrodisiac!” she laughs. While<br />

research into the health benefits of<br />

the ingredient is only in its early<br />

stages, early findings reveal<br />

numerous helpful qualities.<br />

It is a very rich source of<br />

proteins and contains<br />

essential amino acids,<br />

important fatty acids, sugars,<br />

vitamins and minerals, and<br />

has also been found to have<br />

cholesterol-lowering, antiinflammatory,<br />

wound-healing,<br />

and antibiotic effects on humans.<br />

“Royal jelly is a bit like very thick honey<br />

in texture; it’s an amazing ingredient<br />

and is packed with natural goodness.<br />

Queen bees live exclusively on the jelly<br />

and it accounts for their incredible<br />

longevity. Amazingly they live 40 times<br />

longer than worker bees – seven<br />

years as opposed to seven weeks,”<br />

says Praxi.<br />

The health benefits may be<br />

appealing, but indulgent chocolates<br />

will only sell if they taste delicious.<br />

“Royal jelly itself tastes of very little<br />

and we only add a tiny amount to<br />

each single chocolate; just enough<br />

to fit on the end of a cocktail stick.”<br />

Each chocolate retails for around €2,<br />

but the store’s customers certainly<br />

believe they’re worth it. “We have so<br />

many regulars who rave about the<br />

health benefits of the sweets. One<br />

lady who lives locally swears by<br />

having one every day! Chocolate<br />

itself releases endorphins in the same<br />

way as chilli peppers – it’s like a<br />

natural anti-depressant – but the<br />

addition of royal jelly makes it even<br />

more luxurious.”<br />

Using locally-sourced fare is a<br />

priority for Praxi and John; the royal<br />

jelly is sourced from local beekeepers<br />

and the other ingredients used to<br />

make the different varieties of<br />

chocolate are indigenous to Cyprus.<br />

The company uses specialities such<br />

as black cherries, Cypriot wine,<br />

preserved oranges and Zivania, a<br />

local spirit made from grapes, to fill<br />

thick chocolate cups, made from<br />

single origin South American cacao<br />

beans. “Modern British consumers<br />

are increasingly looking for delicious<br />

chocolate that is also good for you,<br />

and this is exactly what we do,”<br />

adds Mrs Adams.<br />

An iconic French luxury food brand,<br />

Fauchon, is soon to be available in<br />

the UK and Eire via exclusive<br />

distributor Coles Trading<br />

profile<br />

Specialities<br />

fromFrance<br />

Founded in Paris by<br />

Auguste Fauchon in<br />

1886, Fauchon is a<br />

longstanding symbol<br />

of French gastronomic<br />

excellence. Building on its<br />

original commitment to quality<br />

and exclusiveness Fauchon<br />

has, in recent years, gained a<br />

reputation for innovation and has<br />

reinvented itself as one of the<br />

leading forces in contemporary<br />

French culinary culture.<br />

The expertise, passion and<br />

audacious creativity of the chefs at<br />

Fauchon’s bakery, patisserie and<br />

delicatessen in Place de la<br />

Madeleine are internationally<br />

renowned.<br />

These culinary<br />

specialists<br />

work with<br />

the best<br />

growers, traditional<br />

French craftsmen and the very<br />

finest ingredients to create an<br />

extensive Fauchon range of<br />

packaged sweet and savoury<br />

products for sale all over the world.<br />

Over 200 items from the range<br />

will be available in the UK and Eire<br />

from October 2011 including<br />

flavoured teas and coffee; spices &<br />

condiments; parfums de sauce: fruit<br />

flavoured oils and vinegars; fruit<br />

preserves, honeys, biscuits and<br />

champagne. The finest quality,<br />

flavour and originality permeate the<br />

whole selection.<br />

But, it is the exceptional range<br />

of <strong>confectionery</strong> which is the<br />

flagship for the Fauchon brand.<br />

All products within this<br />

assortment are<br />

exquisitely packaged<br />

and include milk<br />

and dark chocolate<br />

bars, truffles,<br />

pralinés, nougats,<br />

caramels, fruit jellies,<br />

calissons and<br />

marrons glacés.<br />

The numbered series<br />

(No.1 to No. 6) of chocolate<br />

mini bars, tablets and cubes<br />

provides a perfect self-treat or an<br />

informal, everyday gift. Mendiants –<br />

a traditional speciality with dried fruit<br />

and nuts – are a real highlight. And,<br />

the selection of giftboxes, including<br />

several heart-shaped tins, are<br />

perfect for special occasions such<br />

as Christmas and Valentine’s Day.<br />

Commenting on Fauchon’s<br />

launch at the recent <strong>Speciality</strong><br />

Chocolate Fair at London’s Olympia,<br />

Tim Coles, managing director of<br />

Coles Trading said, “I am absolutely<br />

delighted with the<br />

quality of the contacts<br />

made and we are now<br />

looking forward to<br />

partnering with fine<br />

food retailers to<br />

establish the Fauchon<br />

brand and develop it<br />

to its full potential.”<br />

Fauchon is the first<br />

of a number of<br />

fine French and<br />

Italian brands which<br />

will form the<br />

Coles Trading<br />

product<br />

portfolio over the<br />

coming months.<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 27


asian sweets<br />

Eastern<br />

Delights<br />

Big retail chains such as Thorntons are<br />

creating chocolate boxes specially for<br />

Eid and Diwali; but what can smaller<br />

confectioners do to meet the demand?<br />

Louise investigates Indian sweets<br />

Entering an Indian sweet<br />

house is a breath-taking<br />

experience. Imagine bold<br />

colours, swirling patterns<br />

and eye-catching designs all coated<br />

in a haze of sugar, and, there you<br />

have a taste of Indian <strong>confectionery</strong>.<br />

In this part of the world,<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> is made with visual<br />

appeal very much at its crux. Of<br />

course flavour matters, but<br />

essentially its main purpose is to<br />

stand out at parties, weddings and,<br />

of course religious celebrations such<br />

as Diwali. It is true that an alluring<br />

display of sweets is what makes<br />

one occasion distinct from another,<br />

and according to food writer and<br />

cookery teacher Monisha<br />

Bharadwa, “There are no specific<br />

dishes you eat in Diwali but you<br />

must eat sweets, at the end of the<br />

occasion you should be completely<br />

sweeted-out.”<br />

Special occasions<br />

As with many British celebrations,<br />

food forms a big part of the event.<br />

And, Diwali is no acceptance with<br />

sweets and festivities going hand-inhand.<br />

Indeed, this colourful<br />

<strong>confectionery</strong> calls for a celebration,<br />

and many Indian sweet shops<br />

(mithai makers) throughout the UK<br />

rejoice when the calender turns to<br />

the busy months of October and<br />

November. “We have people lining<br />

up on the sidewalk and waiting on<br />

the curb,” said Anum Butt, whose<br />

family owns Al-Karam Sweets and<br />

whose father is a third-generation<br />

mithai maker from Pakistan. “It’s<br />

such an exciting feel,” she says.<br />

Many specialist stores<br />

celebrate the ‘Festival of Light’ by<br />

decorating their shops, wearing<br />

traditional attire and even<br />

introducing ‘limited edition’<br />

varieties. Having been open since<br />

1978 and employing a team of over<br />

50 staff members, Mr Ismail,<br />

manager of Sweetmart in Bristol,<br />

knows a thing or two about about<br />

turning a profit from sugared treats.<br />

And, he believes more Brits than<br />

ever are opting for eastern<br />

confections. “The market for Indian<br />

sweets is definitely getting more<br />

popular. We have been agents for<br />

Royal Sweets (the biggest Indian<br />

sweet manufacturer in the UK)<br />

for 30 years now and we have<br />

certainly noticed an increase in<br />

demand – particularly from White<br />

English consumers.<br />

“I travel the world quite a lot and<br />

believe that British consumers are<br />

the most open-minded, and are<br />

more willing to try new things. In<br />

countries like America, and even the<br />

rest of Europe shoppers are less<br />

likely to be experimental,” he says.<br />

It seems the nation’s broad-minded<br />

attitude has led to customers<br />

actually demanding a bigger range<br />

and more variety in this store. Mr<br />

Ismail comments, “We wouldn’t<br />

have called our shop ‘Sweetmart’ if<br />

it wasn’t doing well – instead exotic<br />

fruits and spices would’ve been our<br />

focus. The name Sweetmart sums<br />

up our main business really.”<br />

Being an expert in the field, this<br />

speciality shopkeeper recommends<br />

that retailers who are new to Indian<br />

sweets should stock an interesting<br />

collection of barfi. Made from<br />

condensed milk, barfi is available in<br />

several different flavours, including<br />

pineapple, pistachio, chocolate and<br />

even ice cream! Made with double<br />

cream, sugar and milk power, “It is<br />

more like your Devon fudge!” laughs<br />

Mr Ismail.<br />

A well-organised counter<br />

should also include the Indian<br />

classic, jalebi; which is a deep-fried<br />

batter tube that is made with saffron<br />

and sugar. The orange treat is a<br />

winner with customers from Indian,<br />

Pakistan, Nepal and Bangladesh,<br />

but is also proving popular with<br />

intriguing Brits too. “It has caught on<br />

very well, and more shoppers are<br />

starting to buy something different<br />

for traditional events such as<br />

Christmas.” Another key line that is<br />

attracting attention is rassomalai<br />

which is a round candy that<br />

combines Indian cottage cheese<br />

and sugar syrup. Many Indian<br />

stores also sell Havla which can be<br />

KEY BENEFITS OF GOING EAST<br />

Many Indian sweets are vegetarian friendly<br />

because they contain no gelatine. This is an<br />

option worth exploring when targeting both<br />

veggie and vegan customers.<br />

■ Some British consumers are looking for alternative dessert<br />

options for events such as birthdays and Christmas, and<br />

Indian desserts could fit the bill.<br />

■ Stocking Indian sweets means that events such as Diwali<br />

and Eid can be celebrated, and it may also attract fresh<br />

custom in-store.<br />

■ Displays of Indian sweets are visually attractive and will<br />

hopefully brighten up your shop.<br />

■ A collection of sweets can be sold to accompany Indian<br />

meal deals. Most consumers are interested in Indian<br />

savoury dishes, give them the chance to uncover the<br />

sweeter side of this cuisine.<br />

■ Recipe cards can be given out so customers can make<br />

Indian sweets at home<br />

28 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


asian sweets<br />

“A favourite Indian<br />

expression is ‘muh<br />

meetha karo’ and<br />

it means ‘sweeten<br />

your mouth’”<br />

either flour-based or nut butterbased.<br />

It is flavoured with fruits such<br />

as figs and is popular when paired<br />

with middle eastern cuisine. In his<br />

article, ‘Sweetness and Light’,<br />

Adam Edwards at the Telegraph<br />

newspaper described the sweet as<br />

the ‘Mr Kipling cake of India’.<br />

Point of difference<br />

Traditional sweets such as these<br />

are all prepared in an authentic<br />

way, and despite national chains<br />

such as Thorntons trying to enjoy<br />

profitability of religious festival by<br />

introducing ‘special collections’;<br />

Mr Ismail is not convinced of their<br />

involvement. “Supermarkets and<br />

shops like Thorntons have trashed<br />

on Indian sweets by not stocking<br />

fresh lines that are specially made,<br />

and chilled. Authentic lines are<br />

refrigerated to ensure the sweets<br />

are still unprocessed and moist,<br />

this is much better than being left<br />

out in the ambient temperature. I<br />

also believe the packaging is much<br />

nicer when you buy from an<br />

independent store.” This<br />

passionate shopkeeper is<br />

convinced that the whole<br />

retail experience is completely<br />

different when buying from a<br />

specialist store.<br />

“When consumers travel the<br />

world and try new foods they want<br />

the same experience when they<br />

come back. They don’t want<br />

packaged goods which have no<br />

authentic flavour. A lot of chains tend<br />

to put products in boxes, whereas<br />

we offer items loose so customers<br />

can pick and choose what they<br />

need,” says Mr Ismail. He also<br />

believes his knowledgeable staff are<br />

an asset when dealing with<br />

customers that have allergies. The<br />

specialist team is able to assist<br />

shoppers better. “We can identify<br />

which products have traces of nuts<br />

or dairy straight away.” This helped<br />

shoppers massively when the ‘mad<br />

cow’ disease broke out because<br />

Indian sweets do not contain<br />

gelatine, many customers were<br />

happy to stock up on vegetarian<br />

friendly options.<br />

This attention to detail has<br />

meant that a specialist store such as<br />

Sweetmart has garnered a point of<br />

difference from the supermarkets.<br />

“The biggest advantage we have is<br />

we are still a family-run business and<br />

my father is actually a historic figure<br />

in Bristol. He started something new<br />

in the town and it is still popular<br />

today,” concludes Mr Ismail.<br />

www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk 29


stevia<br />

&<br />

Sweetness<br />

Light<br />

Historically, the words<br />

‘healthy’ and<br />

‘chocolate’ have rarely<br />

sat well together in the<br />

same paragraph, let<br />

alone the same<br />

sentence. Raw cocoa in<br />

its most natural form<br />

has many health<br />

benefits; it is high in<br />

antioxidants, it contains<br />

vitamins and essential<br />

nutrients and can help<br />

prevent heart and<br />

vascular diseases.<br />

However, once the<br />

cocoa is processed into<br />

a chocolate bar, the real<br />

health benefits are often<br />

reduced because the<br />

inclusions of other<br />

ingredients, such as<br />

sugar and sweeteners can be bad<br />

for you when eaten excessively or<br />

as part of an unbalanced diet.<br />

Modern eating patterns have<br />

meant that we now all eat too<br />

much sugar. Every year we<br />

consume on average over 40kg<br />

per person, which equates to<br />

about 130g sugar per day. The<br />

World Health Organisation<br />

recommends a daily amount of<br />

20-50g of sugar per day so we all<br />

consume well over double that<br />

amount! Excess sugar in our diet<br />

is a major contributing factor in<br />

many modern day diseases;<br />

cancer, obesity, diabetes and<br />

possibly Alzheimer’s.<br />

So what is the answer? A<br />

balanced diet and exercise goes a<br />

long way to keep us all healthy but<br />

sweet things appeal to all of us<br />

and why should we stop eating<br />

what we love? In the case of<br />

chocolate, for many years the only<br />

real way has been to choose high<br />

quality bars with a high cocoa<br />

content meaning that<br />

only a minimal amount<br />

of other ingredients<br />

have been added.<br />

Many chocolatiers<br />

have tried to remove<br />

sugar from their<br />

ingredients list and tried<br />

to replace it with<br />

sweeteners, such as<br />

maltitol or sorbitol, as<br />

they contain fewer<br />

calories per gram and<br />

so are perceived to be<br />

better for you. However,<br />

these replacements are<br />

man-made and as such<br />

have unfortunate side<br />

effects, such as laxative effects<br />

when consumed in reasonable<br />

quantities. They also don’t always<br />

taste as nice as natural sugars so<br />

consumer demand has deemed<br />

healthy and chocolate should<br />

continue to remain apart…<br />

Until now…<br />

Stevia, or Stevia Rebaudiana<br />

Bertoni to give it its full name, is a<br />

small green plant, originates from<br />

the borderland between Paraguay<br />

and Brazil. The small leaves<br />

contain stevioside, a potent<br />

sweetener which is 300 times<br />

sweeter than ordinary sugar. The<br />

plant also contains rebaudioside<br />

A, which is even sweeter than<br />

stevioside and with a less<br />

bitter aftertaste.<br />

Stevia has been used for<br />

centuries as a natural sweetener in<br />

Can chocolate ever be healthy? Peter<br />

Martin MD of the House of Sarunds<br />

discovers the latest ingredient that is<br />

helping to keep <strong>confectionery</strong><br />

delicious, but also nutritious<br />

countries in the Far East and the<br />

Central Americas. In Japan Stevia<br />

is used in soft and fizzy drinks as a<br />

healthy alternative to aspartame,<br />

(an artificial sweetener). So why isn’t<br />

Stevia well known in Europe? Due<br />

to the emergence of many cheaper<br />

sugar and synthetic sweeteners,<br />

coupled with economic and market<br />

pressures, the European,<br />

‘want it now and want it<br />

cheap’ culture has meant<br />

Stevia has remained a<br />

well-kept secret.<br />

So what is so good<br />

about Stevia? Stevia is a<br />

natural ingredient that<br />

contains zero calories per<br />

gram so adds nothing to<br />

your sugar intake but<br />

helps to give chocolate<br />

that sweeter taste.<br />

Cavalier chocolate also<br />

contains over twice the<br />

amount of fibre than<br />

sugar or sweeteners,<br />

which as we all know is<br />

important in digestion, as well<br />

as higher levels of vitamin E,<br />

magnesium, zinc and iron, again<br />

all important in keeping your<br />

body healthy.<br />

Cavalier chocolatiers have<br />

pioneered the use of Stevia in<br />

chocolate and its master<br />

chocolatiers, dieticians and food<br />

engineers have created a 100%<br />

natural sweetener that is high in<br />

antioxidants, offers a low glycemic<br />

index, has a unique and delicious<br />

taste, contains fibres, vitamin E,<br />

magnesium, zinc and<br />

iron, features no trans<br />

fats and is gluten-free.<br />

By using Stevia in<br />

chocolate the full<br />

flavour of the cocoa is<br />

unmistakable. The<br />

natural antioxidants,<br />

minerals, essential fatty<br />

acids and fibre have<br />

created something that<br />

has never happened<br />

before, not only do<br />

you have the choice<br />

to eat chocolate as<br />

part of a balanced diet,<br />

you can now use the<br />

words healthy and<br />

chocolate next to each other in<br />

the same sentence.<br />

Cavalier chocolates and all<br />

Cavalier products are only<br />

available from House of Sarunds.<br />

30 www.specialityfoodmagazine.co.uk


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