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eating the coast
I’m always a sucker for a dish that satisfies
any of the three meals as well as one
that can utilize a variety of ingredients with
panache. Quiche is also a trans-seasonal
dish, as it is fresh and inviting as a light al
fresco supper with white wine and salad,
or as part of a hearty brunch in deepest
winter accompanied by potatoes or a cup
of soup.
The word quiche is, as we know, French,
but derives from the German kuchen—to
regional kuche to kische. The origin of
the dish seems obscure, but may have
descended from the kingdom of Lotharingia
(the modern area of Alsace-Lorraine),
which though sounding Tolkeinish existed
briefly as part of the 9th Century Carolingian
Empire. (Tangentally, the politically active
Lotharingians asserted their democratic
leanings by deposing rival kings, including
one Charles the Fat. We can assume that
he enjoyed his kische.)
Larousse Gastronomique states that
Nancy, not Lorraine, is the real birthplace
of quiche, and any dish that contains the
migaine (eggs & cream) and mixed with
onion and other surprising items like pumpkin
is called a quiche. Still others assert a
Roman form of cheesecake, patinea, is the
real predecessor of quiche.
Anglophilic sources claim the first written
recipes for quiche in 14th
century manuscripts from
England. One such book
is the Forme of Cury, or
for you English listeners,
“forms of cookery,”
from the Master Cooks
of King Richard the II.
Ah! Humble dish, noble
origins.
Whatever the
geographical paternity,
the primary ingredients
of the first versions
of our savory pie were
eggs and cream cooked
into a custard with various meats—bacon
being the signature of quiche Lorraine.
Technically Lorraine doesn’t use onions or
other savories, while her sister Alsacienne
is flavored a la alliums. Original crusts
were bread dough or puff pastry, and one
early version of Lorraine was cooked in a
cast iron pan without fancy touches like a
crimped edge or lattice top.
Luckily food evolves, and now quiche
contains cheese and a host of tantalizing
ingredients. The key to filling is fresh herbs
and veggies sautéed beforehand. And
please, use half and half and fresh eggs
for the custard. Gourmet additions include
smoked and flavored salts (try lemon), lox,
or sheep’s and goat’s milk cheeses. Try
anchovies if you’ve a mind to, capers, or
kale and chard. Whip a little pesto or an
olive tapenade into the custard. Marinated
red peppers, artichoke hearts . . . you get
the idea.
Crazy for Quiche!
food love
by elia seely
Crust is as essential as filling, and is
traditionally blind baked. I have made and
eaten many a quiche without doing so,
however, so try for yourself to see. Recipes
for quiche abound in almost any cookbook;
my favorite basic custard formula
is from the Moosewood
original cookbook,
and crust from Nigella
Lawson’s How to Be
a Domestic Goddess.
Quiche is easy to make
(as pie!), and is as
tasty elaborate as basic
(yeh—butter, eggs,
cream—say no more).
Perfect for a potluck or
to make for one and
eat on the whole week.
Simple and civilized:
Bon appétit!
Nigella Lawson follows this basic rule
for shortcrust pastry:
Use half the weight of fat to flour
and use a liquid--egg yolk,orange juice,
whatever--to bind it. Put the flour in a
shallow bowl, add the cold, diced fats
and stir to coat. Put in the freezer for 10
minutes. Put the liquid with a pinch of salt
in the fridge. Then by hand, with mixer, or
food processor, combine the fats and flour
til the mixture is sandy. Add in liquid till
the mix just comes together and form into
disc(s) by hand. Refrigerate for 20 minutes
before rolling out.
This recipe, from How To Be A Domestic
Goddess, will make more than enough:
1 2/3 Cup flour
1/2 cup cold butter, cubed
2 egg yolks
2 Tb. ice water
1 tsp. salt
1 Tb. sugar
Farmer’s
Markets
Food, flowers, and plants only.
Columbia-Pacific Farmer’s Market.
Fridays, 3 – 7pm, May Through
September. In downtown Long Beach,
WA
River People’s Farmer’s Market.
Thursdays, 3 – 7pm, June 23 through
September, possible into October.
At the parking lot in front of Astoria
Indoor Garden Supply on 13th St in
Astoria. The market accepts EBT, and
WIC and Senior Nutrition coupons.
Seaside Farmer’s Market.
Saturdays, July 2 – September 24
(excluding August 27), 1 – 4pm at the
TLC Credit Union Parking Lot.
Cannon Beach Farmer’s Market.
Tuesdays, June 14 – September 27,
2 – 5pm. Located in the Midtown
area of Cannon Beach. EBT, Visa, and
Mastercard accepted.
Tillamook Farmer’s Market.
Saturdays, June 11 – September 24,
9am – 2pm. At Laurel & 2nd St in Tillamook.
Open Air Markets
Food, plus handicrafts, art and more.
Cowlitz Community Farmers Market. Saturdays,
through October, 9am – 2pm. At the Cowlitz Expo
Center in Longview, WA.
Kelso Bridge Market. Sundays, May – September,
10am – 3pm. At Rotary Spray Park, on the lawn of
Catlin Hall in Kelso, WA.
Two Islands Farm Market. Fridays, 3 – 6:30pm,
May – October. 59 W. Birnie Slough Rd on Puget
Island. Trolley shuttle available from the Elochoman
Marina at 3, 4, & 5pm and stops at the Chamber of
Commerce in Cathlamet, WA.
Weekend Market. Fridays and Saturdays on the first
and third weekends of the month, 10am – 4pm. At
the Long Beach Grange on Sandridge Road in Long
Beach, WA.
Saturday Market at the Port. Saturdays, April –
September, 10am – 4pm. Along the waterfront in
Ilwaco, WA.
Astoria Sunday Market. Sundays, May 8 – October
9, 10am – 3pm. On 12th St in downtown Astoria.
Manzanita Farmer’s Market. Fridays, June 10 –
September 23, 5 – 8pm (5 – 7pm after September
9). At the Windermere parking lot on Laneda in
Manzanita.
Saturday Farmer’s Market. Saturdays, May 7 –
October 29. 9am – 1pm at City Hall in Newport.
EBT, WIC, Senior Nutrition, credit and debit cards
accepted.
A
delicious
fare of
pastas, seafood
and Tuscan steaks
Authentic, creative,
sandwiches and salads
“. . . the best Italian restaurant between Seaside and Seattle!”
- J. Nicholas, The Oregonian
Lunch & Dinner • OPEN 7 days a week • Specials Served Daily
DOWNTOWN ASTORIA • 1149 Commercial • 503-325-9001 • www.fulios.com
Delicious coffee, handcrafted
by Water Avenue Coffee
Portland, OR
Great Lunches
Homemade Soups
Our New Box Lunch Menu
Open mic every Saturday 6:30 - 9:30
1410 commercial street
astoria 97103 503.325.5511
Casual
Dining
Great
River
Views
Brewery Tours
Sat./Sun. at 1:00 and 4:00pm.
FREE Live Music
Every Sunday at 8:00
Hand-made Food
House made sausages, steaks,
and fresh seafood.
Brewed Local, Canned Local
503-325-PINT www.fortgeorgebrewery.com
Yes . . . you can play with our action figures.
open at 6:30 daily
Now offering Pour over.. ..a cup of joe brewed
specially for you right in front of your eyes!
aug11 hipfishmonthly.com
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